[Emc-users] cnc routers

2015-04-24 Thread Roland Jollivet
Getting a bit old now, but this is a nice CNC machine made from tubing;

http://oneoceankayaks.com/madvac/madvac_index.htm

Regards
Roland



On 23 April 2015 at 17:17, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 23 April 2015 at 13:55, Todd  Zuercher
 zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  I doubt that would be stiff enough to use as a table surface by it's
 self.

 I was suggesting it as a spoilboard that was not affected by humidity.

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Re: [Emc-users] cnc routers

2015-04-23 Thread andy pugh
On 23 April 2015 at 13:55, Todd  Zuercher
zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 I doubt that would be stiff enough to use as a table surface by it's self.

I was suggesting it as a spoilboard that was not affected by humidity.

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Re: [Emc-users] cnc routers

2015-04-23 Thread Todd Zuercher
I doubt that would be stiff enough to use as a table surface by it's self.

A material commonly used on large commercial routers is 3/4 or 1 inch thick 
phenolic sheets.  But that stuff can get expensive.  For building a vacuum 
table I have had good luck with using a 2x6 0.25 thick wall aluminum 
extrusion, then sticking a 1/4 thick Sintra (or similar PVC foam board) to the 
surface of that (we used a good double sided tape) and milling the surface flat 
and milling the vacuum pattern into that.

- Original Message -
From: andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 6:30:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] cnc routers

On 23 April 2015 at 02:53,  richsh...@comcast.net wrote:
 The working surface on my router is a piece of 1 1/8 plywood subfloor with a 
 piece of 3/4 MDF over top. I made up the difference of 0.005 by a light 
 surfacing cut of the MDF to make sure it is level. However, everytime it 
 rains here, I know that I have to resurface the MDF, the characteristics of 
 MDF, sorry


Maybe something like this would be better?
http://www.solwayrecycling.co.uk/agricultural/ecosheet

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Re: [Emc-users] cnc routers

2015-04-23 Thread andy pugh
On 23 April 2015 at 02:53,  richsh...@comcast.net wrote:
 The working surface on my router is a piece of 1 1/8 plywood subfloor with a 
 piece of 3/4 MDF over top. I made up the difference of 0.005 by a light 
 surfacing cut of the MDF to make sure it is level. However, everytime it 
 rains here, I know that I have to resurface the MDF, the characteristics of 
 MDF, sorry


Maybe something like this would be better?
http://www.solwayrecycling.co.uk/agricultural/ecosheet

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Re: [Emc-users] cnc routers

2015-04-23 Thread Gene Heskett


On Thursday 23 April 2015 06:30:40 andy pugh wrote:
 On 23 April 2015 at 02:53,  richsh...@comcast.net wrote:
  The working surface on my router is a piece of 1 1/8 plywood
  subfloor with a piece of 3/4 MDF over top. I made up the difference
  of 0.005 by a light surfacing cut of the MDF to make sure it is
  level. However, everytime it rains here, I know that I have to
  resurface the MDF, the characteristics of MDF, sorry

 Maybe something like this would be better?
 http://www.solwayrecycling.co.uk/agricultural/ecosheet

Perhaps it would be better Andy, but at 46 UKP/sheet, and about that much 
for freight delivery, the mdf comes in at about 1/3rd the cost locally.

When it show up at Lowes or Home Depot over here, who can buy it in 
truckload lots, sell it at a big buck a sheet, small maybe, depends on 
how many hours it takes to resurface the mdf, including the carbide tool 
you'll trash doing it.  On a gantry router, it is still going to get dug 
up unless we're very carefull and use sacrificial but precise shims 
under the work,  I would rather dig up a sacrificial piece of mdf even 
if the stuff is hell on tooling.

In making my last furniture piece, I used a 2 piece of soon to be 
ir-replaceable white ash (the Emerald ash borer is killing them 
nationwide over here) that covered 95% of the table, with a caul of 1x2 
straight maple, curved on the bottom face so it was pulled flat by a 
pair of 3/8 readi-thread studs screwed into the white ash, making its 
own threads, far enough apart I could clamp across an 11.5 wide 
Mahogany board and do the Green  Green style big wide box joints on the 
ends of the boards.  All the damage is a good inch beyond the caul board 
because thats as close as I can get to it without the spindle burning 
its way into the caul.

On the rear is a piano hinge holding a flip it out of the way Mahogany 
strip end of board stop, and a left edge of board locator glued onto 
it that makes sure the left edge of the board is just inside the x 
travel limit with a 1/4 tool mounted.

Works great, the area under the joints has been knocked smooth of burrs 
several times with some 80 grit paper to make sure the next board to be 
cut is laying flat when its clamped up. I haven't been as carefull about 
the depth of cut as I should have been, but the nonimally .750 thick 
Mahogony board I can get shipped in seems to have a tolerance of -0.005 
to +.040 anyway.  So I generally zero Z at the top surface + .015 
feeler blade  cut -.800 in whatever number of passes gets me 
around .75 spindle motor amps with my toy mill.

However, I do have a good stock of white ash for the next furniture 
project, laid up under roof in my woodshed, getting rarer all the time. 
Some of it has been there 15 years now, ought to be nice  dry. ;-)

Humm, Maybe whats left will pay to bury me by then?  It is a strikingly 
beautifull, creamy white wood, quite hard and I have not seen any listed 
for sale at the hardwood places in quite a while.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread andy pugh
On 22 April 2015 at 13:02, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 I can see why they would patent it. I wonder how long till it would take
 to stretch enough to not lay dead flat on the track?

That's the super-clever bit. The teeth-up belt is bonded to the track,
so the effective belt length and stretch is tiny.

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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread Gene Heskett
On Wednesday 22 April 2015 08:10:57 Les Newell wrote:
 Hi Gene,

 I believe the lower belt is glued to the track so it cannot move,
 effectively making it a rack.

 Les

Effectively 2 belts facing each other with symmetrical mirrored tooth 
profiles? Likely as good a rack as you could buy, at 10% of the cost per 
foot compared to a machined rack.  I am still impressed.

In such a situation I see a bidir spec of .002 tolerance, would this be 
a cyclic error that could be calibrated out by mapping it?  Seems like 
it should be to me.  With an index pulse from a stepper driver to home 
the error map to, even steppers could be used at the finer division 
ratios. My 1/8 I use with the screws which are much slower would be too 
coarse a move.  My 2m542 drivers can go to /25.  Since I have a 5i25 on 
the lathe, and the speed limit for the opticals in the 2m542 is a touch 
better than 300 kilohertz, I ought to do some experimenting with an eye 
to reducing the 2/1 reduction gear noise.  Need a round tuit I guess. :(

I am dreaming of course, no stepper driver I know about puts out an index 
at its power up default position, or when going by it, or even a once 
per rev pulse, nor are our stepper drivers capable of using it.  Out of 
I/O pins is probably the biggest roadblock as that would take 2 more 
pins per axis.

But I don't know of a law that says we can't dream, :)

Glad to hear from you, I was afraid you had dropped off the list.

 On 22/04/2015 13:02, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Certifiable slicker than snot on a doorknob. I can see why they
  would patent it. I wonder how long till it would take to stretch
  enough to not lay dead flat on the track?

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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[Emc-users] cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread richshoop
As Dirty Harry says A man needs to know his limitations ... A wooden framed 
tool will change constantly over its life, just the nature of wood. A 
reasonably priced starting point is 2 square steel tube, or 50mm square tube, 
for our metric friends. Is it going to be flat enough for your application? 
That will be up to you as to how you brace it, how you weld it. HINT: low heat, 
build the two side rail assemblies as a pair, so that any imperfections are the 
same on both sides. Assume that all parts are not perfect, weld in square nuts 
in the ends of the legs so you can use leg levelers to make up any fine 
adjustments. Same thing with the bed support, make sure that bed adjusting is 
designed in. How do you start from a known starting point? Buy yourself a 
machinery level on 
EBAY. I found a used Starret 8 machinery leveling level for $30.00 plus 
shipping. In a hurry? check out www.shars.com and see what they have to offer. 
As soon as you have one side leveled, it becomes a process of matching the 
remaining pieces, remember the adjustability designed in? Here is where you use 
it. Keep in mind that you are building a single machine, not multiples. For my 
router, I used 1/2-13 carriage bolts as the adjustable feet, mounted in a 
plastic deck board spacer. I got the rear rail, (90 long, as close to level as 
I could with the Starret level), then I used the straightest piece of 4 square 
tube I could find and placed the Starret level on top of it to match the 
opposite side. Once in position, I drilled holes in the crossbar flanges to 
take a roll pin to maintain the alignment. After this, I estimate that the 
working area was within 0.005, as measured with a dial indicator mounted in 
the quill of the spindle motor. The working surface on my router is a piece o
 f 1 1/8 plywood subfloor with a piece of 3/4 MDF over top. I made up the 
difference of 0.005 by a light surfacing cut of the MDF to make sure it is 
level. However, everytime it rains here, I know that I have to resurface the 
MDF, the characteristics of MDF, sorry. My environment here is miserable for 
any wood based item, never any drier than 50% humidity, sometimes as high as 
85% for days. Some things you just have to accept and work with what you have. 
LinuxCNC has been absolutely reliable for me, been using it for over 10 years 
now. 

- Original Message -

From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net 
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2015 11:34:27 AM 
Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 108, Issue 58 

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Today's Topics: 

1. Re: Cnc routers (Mark Wendt) 
2. Re: TSC Kawasaki cutoff saw story (Gene Heskett) 
3. Re: Cnc routers (Erik Friesen) 
4. Re: TSC Kawasaki cutoff saw story 
(Todd Zuercher) 
5. Re: Cnc routers (Bruce Layne) 
6. Re: Mesa cards visual documentation (Karlsson  Wang) 
7. Re: Cnc routers (Gene Heskett) 


-- 

Message: 1 
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2015 05:58:09 -0400 
From: Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers 
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) 
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
Message-ID: 
CABWWDmq9Ot-XbZh5nawcJ3DQWRpYdsUrJVUVNc5MTz=cj0j...@mail.gmail.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 

On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 6:04 PM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote: 

 I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K 
 range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and 
 caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer 
 and all. I have too much time invested in different custom things to 
 switch to something else. Does this leave me with building something 
 myself again? 
 
 I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives, mesa 
 5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month. I'd like to 
 find something where I could put my existing equipment to use. 
 
 Some I have looked over - 
 http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/ 
 
 http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047 
 http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm 
 


Erik, 

Take a look at 
http://www.cncrouterparts.com/pro-cnc-machine-kits-c-47_54.html 

Mark 


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Message: 2 
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2015 06:19:09 -0400 
From: Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] TSC Kawasaki cutoff saw story 
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
Message-ID: 201504210619.09132.ghesk...@wdtv.com

Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread andy pugh
On 22 April 2015 at 05:44, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Same concept with a belt
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdJoVh6DRPA

The Bell-Everman ServoBelt is really very clever. If I was building a
router/plasma I would certainly steal the idea.

-- 
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If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread Gene Heskett


On Wednesday 22 April 2015 06:57:04 andy pugh wrote:
 On 22 April 2015 at 05:44, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:
  Same concept with a belt
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdJoVh6DRPA

 The Bell-Everman ServoBelt is really very clever. If I was building a
 router/plasma I would certainly steal the idea.

Kewl!  Certifiable  slicker than snot on a doorknob.

I can see why they would patent it. I wonder how long till it would take 
to stretch enough to not lay dead flat on the track?  However, I have a 
belt, not as wide, white that greatly resembles that one on my z drive, 
well tensioned about 5 years ago, and has not lost any of that tension 
that I can detect since.  So the white stuff seems to be good, 
kevlar/dacron back I assume.

Here, it would appear the only real tension would be between the motor 
pinion and the bottom of the rollers holding it to the track. IOW no 
tension end to end on the belt except for the length in the loop.  
Clamped as shown on each end, it ought to just lay there. I am 
impressed.  Very impressed.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread Les Newell
Keep in mind you don't have to get the table absolutely perfect. Fit a 
wood/MDF backing board on the table then skim it flat usign your router 
head. Even if the machine is slightly twisted this will compensate for 
the twist.

It pays to use the biggest cutter your spindle will handle and run at 
the highest feed rate possible otherwise it takes forever.

Les

On 22/04/2015 05:44, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
 First you need a level assembly area. That can be as basic as four 
 jack stands with flat plates on top, all carefully shimmed to the 
 exact height/level. Weld the bases down to steel plates so weight can 
 be piled on. Put the pieces of the frame on the stands, check for 
 level, clamp then tack weld to each other and to the stands. Alternate 
 welding short bits at each corner. For big frames you'll need stands 
 in the middle of the long sections. Once you have the main frame 
 welded together flat and true you can weld on other pieces as you 
 build it upside down. Cut it loose from the stands, flip over, tack 
 back down and finish the top. Or if you welded legs on while it was on 
 the stands, move it to its final location, level it and attach it to 
 the floor then finish welding on the top side parts. Or you could 
 start by attaching the legs to the floor, shimming them all to be 
 level with each other, then build the table in place. Once you get 
 enough pieces welded together it's not going to bend or twist.


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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-22 Thread Les Newell
Hi Gene,

I believe the lower belt is glued to the track so it cannot move, 
effectively making it a rack.

Les

On 22/04/2015 13:02, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Certifiable slicker than snot on a doorknob. I can see why they would 
 patent it. I wonder how long till it would take to stretch enough to 
 not lay dead flat on the track?


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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-21 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 4/20/2015 5:41 PM, Jack Coats wrote:
 If you want to build something in that range, but have a larger and pretty
 rigid rig, consider Mechmate.com ... It is a real DIY project, normally
 uses NEMA 32 motors, but if you have some good 24's might work.  Still
 check out their forums.  Plans cost $100, normal build costs for everything
 go anywhere from $3K to $8 or 10K USD, depending on what you have and
 accountability in your area.

He's built a CNC router already, he should have the skill to build a 
metal framed one without needing to pay for plans. There's so much free 
info on the web and a large number of other DIY builds to snag ideas 
from... I also see plenty of just add... metal gantry router table 
kits on Craigslist. Those are usually built up from aluminum extrusion 
with a few custom CNC milled pieces for the gantry ends.

If the wood framed router is large enough and the main gripe is having 
to periodically snug up the bolts and some lack of rigidity - how about 
replacing the woodwork on your woodworking machine with metal?

If you don't have the tools to precision cut the parts, find a metal 
supply shop that can cut the pieces to exact lengths. Replace the main 
frame with steel and the gantry (assuming it is a gantry table) with 
aluminum for lighter weight.

Depending on how hefty the current gantry is constructed, the aluminum 
could end up lighter yet stiffer.

Shouldn't be difficult to design it so all the current drive system and 
electronics will directly transfer.

If the drives are by belt, chain or rack and pinion it would be 
relatively simple to make the metal version larger. Add more rack or 
chain links or buy longer belts. If it's screw drive then increasing the 
size gets costly quick due to needing new, longer screws. If only screws 
could be added onto like chains and racks...

If it's screw drive then I'd look into building an all new, metal frame, 
router then spiffing up the old one nice and tight and clean then 
selling it.

Y'know, I bet biscuit joints and some strategically placed metal corner 
brackets would keep the wood frame from loosening. 'Course then the 
parts would be permanently attached to each other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6kIipnVVOc


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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-21 Thread Gene Heskett


On Tuesday 21 April 2015 08:15:10 Erik Friesen wrote:
 www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0864.JPG
 www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0865.JPG
 www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0866.JPG
 www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0867.JPG

 Its not that the wood gets loose, its a number of factors, Probably
 wood compression and moisture movement issue, along with bearing
 issues.  I purchased the rail bearing assemble from cncrouterparts,
 and while they are fine for a hobby mill, I find that they need to be
 tightened every 100 hours or so.  Also, trash ends up running on the
 bearing surface.

 Perhaps my sights are set too high here, but I have looked at this -
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/261855407885 - as well, but it looks a bit
 flimsy on the X axis to me.  Also, how ever do you get the thing from
 twisting?

Looking at that pix, I see the same flexure as you in that lightweight 
gantry riser.  That is not even remotely close to being stiff enough to 
carve steel.  Even alu would need light cuts, and a fractional pause in 
the corners for that to catch up IF the tool is sharp.  But in alu, the 
tool is not going to stay sharp long enough to matter if not doing it 
submerged in an oxygen displacing bath (water based is out), or drowning 
in a directed mist of oil such as safflower cooking oil (for its higher 
flashpoint).

Either one presents itself as a messy affair. BTDT, several times. Nice 
job when done but the cleanup? At the end of the job, that 2 oz of 
safflower oil was a fog in the shop with about a 20 foot estimated 
visibility range and all over my glasses not to mention the air I was 
breathing. :(

 I find it hard to understand how you weld up your own frame and get it
 flat and square, unless you have the right tools to do so.

 I cut a lot of 12x12 material into little pieces, so flatness and
 rigidity is quite important to me.  I want to stick a piece of
 material on the bed and be able to have the part heights come out
 within 3 thousanths or so, assuming the material has a flat bottom.

 On Tue, Apr 21, 2015 at 5:58 AM, Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com 
wrote:
  On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 6:04 PM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net 
wrote:
   I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to
   $10K range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole
   kit and caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes
   with the computer and all.  I have too much time invested in
   different custom things to switch to something else.  Does this
   leave me with building something myself again?
  
   I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko
   drives,
 
  mesa
 
   5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd
   like to find something where I could put my existing equipment to
   use.
  
   Some I have looked over -
   http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/
 
  http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/categor
 y=8927047
 
   http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm
 
  Erik,
 
  Take a look at
  http://www.cncrouterparts.com/pro-cnc-machine-kits-c-47_54.html
 
  Mark
 
  
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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-21 Thread Bruce Layne
The parts sold as the kit are just the motion control portion.  The 
support structure is part of the flexibility that is up to the end 
user.  A sturdy base that doesn't grow and shrink with humidity is 
needed, but you don't need to weld and you don't need a 6' X 10' granite 
surface plate.  Most people will build a machine base (perhaps 
incorporating machine guarding and dust collection enclosure) from 80/20 
or Misumi aluminum extrusion.  Design it to be rigid and to resist 
torsional flexing.  It doesn't need to be optically flat.  Many people 
will build it using precut pieces (Misumi is particularly good for 
accurate and repeatable pre-cut lengths) so it should be square when 
assembled, but your floor won't be level so use machine base feet to 
level the machine.  Null the spindle runout with shims, and then have 
the router itself machine a spoil board so the top surface is flat 
relative to the spindle.  If you're not using a spoil board, another 
trick is to put legs with machine base levelers every two feet and use a 
dial indicator to level the top of the bed to the spindle.  It's not 
quite as tedious as it sounds, and the commercial CNC routers aren't 
infinitely rigid either so they'll need the same sort of leveling tricks.





On 04/21/2015 08:15 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
 Perhaps my sights are set too high here, but I have looked at this -
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/261855407885  - as well, but it looks a bit flimsy
 on the X axis to me.  Also, how ever do you get the thing from twisting?

 I find it hard to understand how you weld up your own frame and get it flat
 and square, unless you have the right tools to do so.

 I cut a lot of 12x12 material into little pieces, so flatness and
 rigidity is quite important to me.  I want to stick a piece of material on
 the bed and be able to have the part heights come out within 3 thousanths
 or so, assuming the material has a flat bottom.



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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-21 Thread Mark Wendt
On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 6:04 PM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:

 I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K
 range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and
 caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer
 and all.  I have too much time invested in different custom things to
 switch to something else.  Does this leave me with building something
 myself again?

 I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives, mesa
 5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd like to
 find something where I could put my existing equipment to use.

 Some I have looked over -
 http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/

 http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047
 http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm



Erik,

Take a look at
http://www.cncrouterparts.com/pro-cnc-machine-kits-c-47_54.html

Mark
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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-21 Thread Erik Friesen
www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0864.JPG
www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0865.JPG
www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0866.JPG
www.aercon.net/utilities/photos/SANY0867.JPG

Its not that the wood gets loose, its a number of factors, Probably wood
compression and moisture movement issue, along with bearing issues.  I
purchased the rail bearing assemble from cncrouterparts, and while they are
fine for a hobby mill, I find that they need to be tightened every 100
hours or so.  Also, trash ends up running on the bearing surface.

Perhaps my sights are set too high here, but I have looked at this -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261855407885 - as well, but it looks a bit flimsy
on the X axis to me.  Also, how ever do you get the thing from twisting?

I find it hard to understand how you weld up your own frame and get it flat
and square, unless you have the right tools to do so.

I cut a lot of 12x12 material into little pieces, so flatness and
rigidity is quite important to me.  I want to stick a piece of material on
the bed and be able to have the part heights come out within 3 thousanths
or so, assuming the material has a flat bottom.




On Tue, Apr 21, 2015 at 5:58 AM, Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 6:04 PM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:

  I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K
  range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and
  caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer
  and all.  I have too much time invested in different custom things to
  switch to something else.  Does this leave me with building something
  myself again?
 
  I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives,
 mesa
  5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd like to
  find something where I could put my existing equipment to use.
 
  Some I have looked over -
  http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/
 
 
 http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047
  http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm
 


 Erik,

 Take a look at
 http://www.cncrouterparts.com/pro-cnc-machine-kits-c-47_54.html

 Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-21 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 4/21/2015 6:15 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:

 Perhaps my sights are set too high here, but I have looked at this -
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/261855407885 - as well, but it looks a bit flimsy
 on the X axis to me.  Also, how ever do you get the thing from twisting?

There are software ways to run a gantry with two motors and keep them in 
synch. Many 3D printers do that for the Z axis.

My preference is a mechanical linkage. Torchmate runs a shaft across 
their gantry to a rack and pinion on both sides. If you want lengthwise 
screws you can connect them at both ends with chains or belts. Another 
method uses a cross shaft on the gantry with stationary chains or belts 
on the sides that loop through sprockets or cogged pulleys. I've seen 
that method with a belt to run the tool carriage across the gantry.

YouTube videos of homebrew/DIY CNC gantry machines show many different 
ways to put them together. Here are just three of the large number.

Chain drive
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MHl2N8viKc
Same concept with a belt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdJoVh6DRPA
Chains with a cross shaft
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vETkf1sqo3M

 I find it hard to understand how you weld up your own frame and get it flat
 and square, unless you have the right tools to do so.

First you need a level assembly area. That can be as basic as four jack 
stands with flat plates on top, all carefully shimmed to the exact 
height/level. Weld the bases down to steel plates so weight can be piled on.

Put the pieces of the frame on the stands, check for level, clamp then 
tack weld to each other and to the stands. Alternate welding short bits 
at each corner. For big frames you'll need stands in the middle of the 
long sections.

Once you have the main frame welded together flat and true you can weld 
on other pieces as you build it upside down. Cut it loose from the 
stands, flip over, tack back down and finish the top. Or if you welded 
legs on while it was on the stands, move it to its final location, level 
it and attach it to the floor then finish welding on the top side parts.

Or you could start by attaching the legs to the floor, shimming them all 
to be level with each other, then build the table in place.

Once you get enough pieces welded together it's not going to bend or twist.


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[Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-20 Thread Erik Friesen
I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K
range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and
caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer
and all.  I have too much time invested in different custom things to
switch to something else.  Does this leave me with building something
myself again?

I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives, mesa
5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd like to
find something where I could put my existing equipment to use.

Some I have looked over -
http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/
http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047
http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm
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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-20 Thread Jack Coats
If you want to build something in that range, but have a larger and pretty
rigid rig, consider Mechmate.com ... It is a real DIY project, normally
uses NEMA 32 motors, but if you have some good 24's might work.  Still
check out their forums.  Plans cost $100, normal build costs for everything
go anywhere from $3K to $8 or 10K USD, depending on what you have and
accountability in your area.  Most folks build a 48x96 nominal cutting
area machines that are about 6' wide and 10' long (again very rough
dimensions).  Some have been built much larger and some smaller.  Critical
parts that are laser cut and bent can be purchased from a single source.
Sources for all techie stuff is available on the forums, but it is your
build so use what you want (please don't cheap out, you get what you pay
for in the long run, IMHO anyway).  You will have to source steel locally
and weld (easy welding, mainly rookie welders building these so it does not
have to be 'pretty' welds).


On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 5:04 PM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:

 I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K
 range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and
 caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer
 and all.  I have too much time invested in different custom things to
 switch to something else.  Does this leave me with building something
 myself again?

 I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives, mesa
 5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd like to
 find something where I could put my existing equipment to use.

 Some I have looked over -
 http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/

 http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047
 http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm

 --
 BPM Camp - Free Virtual Workshop May 6th at 10am PDT/1PM EDT
 Develop your own process in accordance with the BPMN 2 standard
 Learn Process modeling best practices with Bonita BPM through live
 exercises
 http://www.bonitasoft.com/be-part-of-it/events/bpm-camp-virtual-
 event?utm_
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Grace Hopper, USN
Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn. -
Ben Franklin
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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-20 Thread Bruce Layne
If you're looking for a good compromise between building and buying a 
commercially available turn-key CNC router, you  might be interested in 
a guy on eBay who sells kits.  I bought his commercial (linear rail) 24 
X 49 kit almost two years ago.  I use LinuxCNC, of course.  I bought it 
bare (no electronics) and added my own stepper motors and drivers to 
save money and get the motors and drivers I wanted.  I'm reasonably 
close to the eBay seller, so I picked it up to save $200 in shipping.  I 
built it in my brother's garage so he could use it for his woodworking.  
I used it a couple of nights ago to cut 50 holes in a 12 X 24 X 1 
plastic sheet to make an ER20 tool rack for my current CNC milling 
machine project and it worked very well.



It's a complete kit, so it's almost as easy to assemble as most of the 
commercially available CNC routers that require some on-site assembly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261855407885

I liked it so well that I bought a 24 X 24 linear rod CNC router kit 
from him for my basement shop.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131488198442

That project is now slated for later this summer, after the mill, lathe 
and laser.  I'm on a CNC project roll!  I'll build an 80/20 machine base 
for it with the vacuum dust collection in the base and the top will be 
fully enclosed to contain the dust and noise.

There really isn't much to these CNC router kits.  You could simply buy 
the ball screws and linear rail on eBay from Chinese suppliers and 
they're sometimes available as a CNC router motion control kit. Then you 
could make a few simple aluminum brackets and plates, and design the 
enclosure and 80/20 aluminum extrusion machine base to provide the 
support for the motion control components.  You'd probably save several 
hundred dollars over buying the kit from Ed on eBay, but as much as I 
enjoy that sort of machine design, I decided that I'd be better served 
by purchasing the kit and spending my time assembling and wiring rather 
than designing and building.  YMMV.

He has a 4' X 8' CNC router kit as well, and some optimized for plasma 
cutting too.  The prices are significantly less than the other systems 
you were considering, and these kits offer complete flexibility in what 
electronics you use.  I buy a 24 X 28 X 12 powder coated and 
stainless shop cabinet from Seville to use as an electrical enclosure.

https://www.sevilleclassics.com/storage_wall_cabinet_ultra_hd

I screw the parts to the back wall, add some wireway, and wire the 
electrical panel.  A CNC electrical panel takes about a day to build and 
wire, usually spaced over a week or so.  The rest of the project takes 
another day or two, total.  I really don't think it's all that much more 
difficult than assembling and setting up a commercial CNC router.  If 
you can live without the tool change spindle, this might be a good way 
to go.  Add a three phase water cooled spindle motor and VFD (~$300 on 
eBay) and about $600 worth of motors and electronics, and you're good to go.





On 04/20/2015 06:04 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
 I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K
 range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and
 caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer
 and all.  I have too much time invested in different custom things to
 switch to something else.  Does this leave me with building something
 myself again?

 I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives, mesa
 5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd like to
 find something where I could put my existing equipment to use.

 Some I have looked over -
 http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/
 http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047
 http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm

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Re: [Emc-users] Cnc routers

2015-04-20 Thread craig
Don't assume those offering full setups won't sell you just the 
mechanical part.Most of the world is much more open to any sort of 
negotiation this culture.   Specs, completeness, etc are often all 
negotiable.

Craig
 I have been casting around for a new pre built router in the $5 to $10K
 range, however it seems a lot of routers come with the whole kit and
 caboodle, which means it doesn't use linuxcnc and comes with the computer
 and all.  I have too much time invested in different custom things to
 switch to something else.  Does this leave me with building something
 myself again?

 I currently have an oak framed router (16x20 work area), gecko drives, mesa
 5i25, etc, but I get tired of tightening it up every month.  I'd like to
 find something where I could put my existing equipment to use.

 Some I have looked over -
 http://www.camaster.com/product/stinger-i/
 http://www.blurrycustoms.com/#!store/cu2p/!/IMAVX/p/34881281/category=8927047
 http://xzerocnc.com/raptor.htm
 --
 BPM Camp - Free Virtual Workshop May 6th at 10am PDT/1PM EDT
 Develop your own process in accordance with the BPMN 2 standard
 Learn Process modeling best practices with Bonita BPM through live exercises
 http://www.bonitasoft.com/be-part-of-it/events/bpm-camp-virtual- event?utm_
 source=Sourceforge_BPM_Camp_5_6_15utm_medium=emailutm_campaign=VA_SF
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