Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
On 13 June 2018 at 08:48, robert - Innovative-RC wrote: > In our spindles on our Horizontal etc they use Oil as the cooling I think that waterless coolant would be a good choice. https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/p/-/-/-/-/?993778072 -- atp "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics." — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916 -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
In our spindles on our Horizontal etc they use Oil as the cooling , with a chiller that chills it right now to aset point to keep it at a constant temp. , this is put through the motor and the spindle to stop any thermal grouth transmitted and also cool motor instead of forced air. i think its something like ISO 10/15 grade oil i know oil is not as good at transmitting heat than water etc but at least it does not rust or clug things so easy over time. must be why they run it at amuch lower temp than expsected.. plus for hobby use you would need a chiller and not just a pump and rad.. -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
On Thursday 24 May 2018 08:28:33 Kenneth Lerman wrote: > It sounds to me like a car radiator from a junked car would make a > perfect cooling tank and heat radiator. > > Ken > Thats a good idea, or one could get a heater core out of the junk yard, with a fan blowing thru it for even more space savings. More years ago, in my 20's, I did that for a water cooled go kart engine. An old gopher frame, with 2, 2 gallon tanks mounted one on each side, one carried water and one carried the fuel I was burning at the time, either gas or booze & castor oil. With the radiator, a core from an old nash mounted under a panel on the steering column so the hot air exited thru the bottom of the frame. No fan just the fwd motion of up to 120 mph for air flow. Needed a bigger water pump, the flow was so low exit water was ambient temp while the water in the tank was boiling by the end of a 25 lap heat race. Fun days. But not truly competitive, theres only so much hp you can coax out of a surplus 1937 bilge pump, which was a 10hp johnson/evinrude engine turned horizontal. Rotary valve intake , all bearings hard but a deflector head design so it was all done at 7500 revs. With lots more carb than the oem version, burning booze, maybe 25 hp on a good evening, but at 13 cu in and water cooled it was automatically in the C Super class, and some of the tripled Mc's were making 40+ hp, on a frame 25 lbs lighter. But I had pure fun doing it. Side comment, such experience at the bleeding edge of traction, steering with the throttle will make you a better driver when the excrement hits the fan and most folks will lose control. At 83, I have a fav corner I hit at about 65, drifting an 8000 lb ford pickup with the rear end hanging out about 18", just to keep in practice for SHTF situations. It also applies to two wheels, as Andy knows well. > On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Dave Cole wrote: > > RV antifreeze works well for things like this. I have been using it > > for years in my bandsaw coolant tank. It doesn't seem to go bad > > even after years and it doesn't evaporate much. > > > > For cooling, You might want to consider making a flat tank. Two > > sheets of steel or alum spaced apart an inch or so and welded at the > > edges. That would increase your surface area for cooling while not > > creating a huge tank volume wise. Put the tank on edge and it won't > > take up much space. > > > > On 5/22/2018 5:34 PM, Bruce Layne wrote: > >> I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the > >> last few years and have had no trouble with them. I consider them > >> to be a good value. Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion. > >> > >> Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct > >> size. I think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr > >> (red for supply and blue for return). I use pink RV antifreeze as > >> the coolant. It's used full strength and not diluted. I use it in > >> the hope that it's less corrosive than water. Neither machine's > >> coolant has had any rust or other issues, although there was a > >> slight film of oil that's flushed out of the spindle motor. I'm > >> not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC routers is in > >> an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and neither get > >> very cold. I'd actually be more worried about the machine rusting > >> if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are > >> mostly aluminum. > >> > >> I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing > >> the operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats. > >> These liquid crystal strip thermometers are readily available on > >> eBay and are sold for reptile terrariums. I buy a bunch of them > >> and put them in electrical panels, etc. > >> > >> I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will > >> have a 130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the > >> spindle motor housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut > >> everything down if the spindle overheats. > >> > >> The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently > >> mostly radiated. I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor > >> cable (three phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating > >> much energy. The only place I had an RFI problem was the VGA > >> monitor and a good quality VGA cable fixed that problem. > >> > >> On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank > >> under the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the > >> spindle motor. I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that > >> siphoned the five gallon coolant tank empty. After some > >> experimentation, I gave up and put the coolant tank on top of the > >> CNC router enclosure. When it was underneath, I needed to use such > >> a large pump to have enough pressure to pump the coolant six feet > >> vertically that the submerged coolant pump was heating the coo
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
Great idea... in fact I think I will use that idea to cool my TIG welding torch! :-) A radiator from a compact car should be cheap at the junk yard. It might even come with an electric fan if I ask for it! Dave On 5/24/2018 8:28 AM, Kenneth Lerman wrote: It sounds to me like a car radiator from a junked car would make a perfect cooling tank and heat radiator. Ken On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Dave Cole wrote: RV antifreeze works well for things like this. I have been using it for years in my bandsaw coolant tank. It doesn't seem to go bad even after years and it doesn't evaporate much. For cooling, You might want to consider making a flat tank. Two sheets of steel or alum spaced apart an inch or so and welded at the edges. That would increase your surface area for cooling while not creating a huge tank volume wise. Put the tank on edge and it won't take up much space. On 5/22/2018 5:34 PM, Bruce Layne wrote: I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the last few years and have had no trouble with them. I consider them to be a good value. Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion. Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct size. I think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr (red for supply and blue for return). I use pink RV antifreeze as the coolant. It's used full strength and not diluted. I use it in the hope that it's less corrosive than water. Neither machine's coolant has had any rust or other issues, although there was a slight film of oil that's flushed out of the spindle motor. I'm not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC routers is in an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and neither get very cold. I'd actually be more worried about the machine rusting if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are mostly aluminum. I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing the operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats. These liquid crystal strip thermometers are readily available on eBay and are sold for reptile terrariums. I buy a bunch of them and put them in electrical panels, etc. I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will have a 130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the spindle motor housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut everything down if the spindle overheats. The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently mostly radiated. I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor cable (three phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating much energy. The only place I had an RFI problem was the VGA monitor and a good quality VGA cable fixed that problem. On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank under the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the spindle motor. I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that siphoned the five gallon coolant tank empty. After some experimentation, I gave up and put the coolant tank on top of the CNC router enclosure. When it was underneath, I needed to use such a large pump to have enough pressure to pump the coolant six feet vertically that the submerged coolant pump was heating the coolant more than the spindle. It was a spindle heater, not a spindle cooler. We're finally ramping up production, with some programs running unattended for ten hours. I'm going to need to add a radiator in the coolant return line and a couple of muffin fans to keep the coolant temperature low enough. The other alternative might be ten or fifteen more gallons of coolant to increase the thermal mass, but that seems to only delay the overheating problem with greater risk of a severe coolant leak. On 05/22/2018 03:18 PM, Roland Jollivet wrote: I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + VFD kits out there for a router. I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper tubing inside? How likely is it to leak in a few months time? I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. (so they must be good?) I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted air duct. The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite material) So it won't be a dry environment. Regards Roland -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
It sounds to me like a car radiator from a junked car would make a perfect cooling tank and heat radiator. Ken On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Dave Cole wrote: > RV antifreeze works well for things like this. I have been using it for > years in my bandsaw coolant tank. It doesn't seem to go bad even after > years and it doesn't evaporate much. > > For cooling, You might want to consider making a flat tank. Two sheets of > steel or alum spaced apart an inch or so and welded at the edges. That > would increase your surface area for cooling while not creating a huge tank > volume wise. Put the tank on edge and it won't take up much space. > > > On 5/22/2018 5:34 PM, Bruce Layne wrote: > >> I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the last few >> years and have had no trouble with them. I consider them to be a good >> value. Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion. >> >> Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct size. I >> think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr (red for supply >> and blue for return). I use pink RV antifreeze as the coolant. It's used >> full strength and not diluted. I use it in the hope that it's less >> corrosive than water. Neither machine's coolant has had any rust or other >> issues, although there was a slight film of oil that's flushed out of the >> spindle motor. I'm not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC >> routers is in an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and >> neither get very cold. I'd actually be more worried about the machine >> rusting if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are >> mostly aluminum. >> >> I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing the >> operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats. These liquid >> crystal strip thermometers are readily available on eBay and are sold for >> reptile terrariums. I buy a bunch of them and put them in electrical >> panels, etc. >> >> I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will have a >> 130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the spindle motor >> housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut everything down if the >> spindle overheats. >> >> The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently mostly >> radiated. I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor cable (three >> phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating much energy. The only >> place I had an RFI problem was the VGA monitor and a good quality VGA cable >> fixed that problem. >> >> On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank under >> the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the spindle >> motor. I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that siphoned the five >> gallon coolant tank empty. After some experimentation, I gave up and put >> the coolant tank on top of the CNC router enclosure. When it was >> underneath, I needed to use such a large pump to have enough pressure to >> pump the coolant six feet vertically that the submerged coolant pump was >> heating the coolant more than the spindle. It was a spindle heater, not a >> spindle cooler. >> >> We're finally ramping up production, with some programs running >> unattended for ten hours. I'm going to need to add a radiator in the >> coolant return line and a couple of muffin fans to keep the coolant >> temperature low enough. The other alternative might be ten or fifteen more >> gallons of coolant to increase the thermal mass, but that seems to only >> delay the overheating problem with greater risk of a severe coolant leak. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On 05/22/2018 03:18 PM, Roland Jollivet wrote: >> >>> I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + >>> VFD kits out there for a router. >>> I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. >>> >>> Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? >>> How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper >>> tubing inside? >>> How likely is it to leak in a few months time? >>> I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. >>> (so they must be good?) >>> >>> I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take >>> the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted >>> air >>> duct. >>> The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite >>> material) So it won't be a dry environment. >>> >>> Regards >>> Roland >>> -- >>> >>> Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most >>> engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot >>> ___ >>> Emc-users mailing list >>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net >>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users >>> >>> >>> >> >> -
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
RV antifreeze works well for things like this. I have been using it for years in my bandsaw coolant tank. It doesn't seem to go bad even after years and it doesn't evaporate much. For cooling, You might want to consider making a flat tank. Two sheets of steel or alum spaced apart an inch or so and welded at the edges. That would increase your surface area for cooling while not creating a huge tank volume wise. Put the tank on edge and it won't take up much space. On 5/22/2018 5:34 PM, Bruce Layne wrote: I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the last few years and have had no trouble with them. I consider them to be a good value. Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion. Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct size. I think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr (red for supply and blue for return). I use pink RV antifreeze as the coolant. It's used full strength and not diluted. I use it in the hope that it's less corrosive than water. Neither machine's coolant has had any rust or other issues, although there was a slight film of oil that's flushed out of the spindle motor. I'm not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC routers is in an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and neither get very cold. I'd actually be more worried about the machine rusting if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are mostly aluminum. I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing the operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats. These liquid crystal strip thermometers are readily available on eBay and are sold for reptile terrariums. I buy a bunch of them and put them in electrical panels, etc. I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will have a 130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the spindle motor housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut everything down if the spindle overheats. The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently mostly radiated. I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor cable (three phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating much energy. The only place I had an RFI problem was the VGA monitor and a good quality VGA cable fixed that problem. On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank under the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the spindle motor. I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that siphoned the five gallon coolant tank empty. After some experimentation, I gave up and put the coolant tank on top of the CNC router enclosure. When it was underneath, I needed to use such a large pump to have enough pressure to pump the coolant six feet vertically that the submerged coolant pump was heating the coolant more than the spindle. It was a spindle heater, not a spindle cooler. We're finally ramping up production, with some programs running unattended for ten hours. I'm going to need to add a radiator in the coolant return line and a couple of muffin fans to keep the coolant temperature low enough. The other alternative might be ten or fifteen more gallons of coolant to increase the thermal mass, but that seems to only delay the overheating problem with greater risk of a severe coolant leak. On 05/22/2018 03:18 PM, Roland Jollivet wrote: I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + VFD kits out there for a router. I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper tubing inside? How likely is it to leak in a few months time? I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. (so they must be good?) I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted air duct. The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite material) So it won't be a dry environment. Regards Roland -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Check
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the last few years and have had no trouble with them. I consider them to be a good value. Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion. Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct size. I think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr (red for supply and blue for return). I use pink RV antifreeze as the coolant. It's used full strength and not diluted. I use it in the hope that it's less corrosive than water. Neither machine's coolant has had any rust or other issues, although there was a slight film of oil that's flushed out of the spindle motor. I'm not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC routers is in an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and neither get very cold. I'd actually be more worried about the machine rusting if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are mostly aluminum. I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing the operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats. These liquid crystal strip thermometers are readily available on eBay and are sold for reptile terrariums. I buy a bunch of them and put them in electrical panels, etc. I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will have a 130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the spindle motor housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut everything down if the spindle overheats. The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently mostly radiated. I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor cable (three phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating much energy. The only place I had an RFI problem was the VGA monitor and a good quality VGA cable fixed that problem. On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank under the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the spindle motor. I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that siphoned the five gallon coolant tank empty. After some experimentation, I gave up and put the coolant tank on top of the CNC router enclosure. When it was underneath, I needed to use such a large pump to have enough pressure to pump the coolant six feet vertically that the submerged coolant pump was heating the coolant more than the spindle. It was a spindle heater, not a spindle cooler. We're finally ramping up production, with some programs running unattended for ten hours. I'm going to need to add a radiator in the coolant return line and a couple of muffin fans to keep the coolant temperature low enough. The other alternative might be ten or fifteen more gallons of coolant to increase the thermal mass, but that seems to only delay the overheating problem with greater risk of a severe coolant leak. On 05/22/2018 03:18 PM, Roland Jollivet wrote: I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + VFD kits out there for a router. I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper tubing inside? How likely is it to leak in a few months time? I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. (so they must be good?) I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted air duct. The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite material) So it won't be a dry environment. Regards Roland -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
Don't you use a rust inhibitor in the water (or use antifreeze) for spindle cooling? Freezing could be an issue if your CNC is in a sometimes heated garage or even in an industrial building. > -Original Message- > From: Nicklas Karlsson [mailto:nicklas.karlsso...@gmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2018 3:24 PM > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles > > There is a huge diffence in heat capacity between air and water. Water make > me think about rust. > > On Tue, 22 May 2018 21:18:34 +0200 > Roland Jollivet wrote: > > > I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + > > VFD kits out there for a router. > > I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. > > > > Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? > > How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper > > tubing inside? > > How likely is it to leak in a few months time? > > I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. > > (so they must be good?) > > > > I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take > > the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted air > > duct. > > The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite > > material) So it won't be a dry environment. > > > > Regards > > Roland > > -- > > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most > > engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot > > ___ > > Emc-users mailing list > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > > -- > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most > engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot > ___ > Emc-users mailing list > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
Re: [Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
There is a huge diffence in heat capacity between air and water. Water make me think about rust. On Tue, 22 May 2018 21:18:34 +0200 Roland Jollivet wrote: > I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + > VFD kits out there for a router. > I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. > > Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? > How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper > tubing inside? > How likely is it to leak in a few months time? > I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. > (so they must be good?) > > I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take > the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted air > duct. > The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite > material) So it won't be a dry environment. > > Regards > Roland > -- > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most > engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot > ___ > Emc-users mailing list > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
[Emc-users] Water or Air cooled spindles
I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled spindles + VFD kits out there for a router. I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types. Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle? How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some copper tubing inside? How likely is it to leak in a few months time? I can only find one video describing leaks and water related shorts etc. (so they must be good?) I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting to take the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop fan-assisted air duct. The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work. (composite material) So it won't be a dry environment. Regards Roland -- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot ___ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
