Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[Hazem Sedra via EV]

Thanks Bruce for your comments and helpful suggestions.

Charger NG3/240volt outlet.


Yes, will keep the 108 volt(18-6v batteries) lead pack with a slightly lower 
amphours on the new Crown 205  battery pack.

My daily use at most is 15 miles.

My mechanical/electrical skills and knowledge are low, so this systems provides 
what i need and keeps me out of trouble.


The EV was converted by US electric and has not given me any problems for the 
past 9 years...thankful!

During our harsh winters, the car is in a heated garage.

Nearest charging station probably 240 miles in Fargo ND where they produce the 
GEM

Thanks again,

Hazem



From: EV  on behalf of brucedp5 via EV 

Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2018 11:26 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Cc: brucedp5
Subject: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...



% Please correct my assumptions/guesses. See links below for what I am
yakking about. I am not recommending those brands/companies, just offering
them for people to explore. I recommend Hazem create a free EValbum.com
listing, so he can refer to it so we can help him better in the future.

I agree with BillD, you don't need to change/adjust the zivan charger. Since
the old 108VDC PbSO4 pack lasted 9yrs, the charge must already be set
correctly.
* ?What model & input AC voltage zivan charger do you have: ng1, ng3, ng5?

Hazem is doing the reverse of what I did when I bought a second EV, an 108V
Escort stawgn, to gather charging data, and then sell at cost (cheap) so as
to keep it in the SF bay area.

Many years ago, I bought the Green Motor works (?defunct?) Escort EV with a
spent/dead T-105 pack (62lb 115min@75A)
http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105/
T-105 | Trojan Battery Company
www.trojanbattery.com
Trojan Battery Company is not liable for damages that may result from any 
information provided in or omitted from this website, under any circumstances.




I paid Clare Bell
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_page&node=413529&query=Clare+Bell&sort=date
 to remove the T-105s, clean that battery area and cables, and replace the
pack with US-125s (66lb 140min@75A)
http://usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/usb_125_data_sheet_2017HR.pdf

That changed the EV from a r:~30mi EV to a r:~42mi EV at a steady 55mph
speed.

Looking at the batteries Hazem has (CR-220 60lb 110min@75A)
https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Crown-CR-220-specs.pdf
 and is going to (CR-205 56lb 105min@75A)
https://www.thesolarbiz.com/media/catalog/product/c/r/CR-205-Data-Sheet.pdf

 I will assume Hazem knows he will have 93% of the range he had before
(calculation assumption based on 56/60lb of lead - Ah specs are usually over
rated, but if you believe them then Hazem would have 95% of the range he had
before).

Anyone else reading this and thinking of a pack change show also do this
home/leg-work .

The idea of switching to li-ion is valid if that fits Hazem's EV driving
needs.


https://www.thesolarbiz.com/crown-cr-220-group-gc2-6v-220-ah-battery.html
Crown CR-220 Group GC2 6V 220 AH Battery  Price: $119.97  60lb

http://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/435823/CROWN1-Brochure-Web-SPECS-V2.pdf
crown battery data sheet
6CRV220 105min@75A

https://www.thesolarbiz.com/crown-cr-205-group-gc2-6v-205-ah-battery.html
Crown CR-205 Group GC2 6V 205 AH Battery  Price: $107.97  56lb

I will assume he lives near zip code 76701. Using plugshare.com there is no
public EVSE nearby. So, it is likely Hazem has been happy for the last 9yrs
and will continue to be happy with a low range PbSO4 conversion EV that he
charges at home and or work site(s).

So, Hazem has no need to upgrade to li-ion until there is a contiguous
public EVSE chain to let him want more range. I added some li-ion drop in
battery links for people to explore. Though they say they are drop in,
besides the high cost of those li-ion, the charge would need to be changed
for li-ion charging.
%


{links:
https://www.thesolarbiz.com/batteries.html#crown_batteries
(scroll half way down to find crown batteries)
Crown CR-205 Group GC2 6V 205 AH Battery
Made in the USA - No Core Charges - CRO-06205 Price: $107.97
Crown CR-220 Group GC2 6V 220 AH Battery
CRO-06220 Price: $119.97

https://www.thesolarbiz.com/batteries/simpliphi-lithium-battery-phi-2-6-24v-102-4ah.html
SimpliPhi Lithium Battery PHI 2.7 24V 105AH
  PHI-26024 Price: $2,723.97
... Drop in replacement for lead acid ...


https://www.amazon.com/GreenLiFE-Battery-GL260-260AH-Lithium/dp/B01MR87KUI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_0/144-8339467-1162829?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ESC7CQZ6TQ64J90SX1MH
GreenLiFE Battery GL260 - 260AH 12V Lithium Ion Battery
Price: $2,499.99 + $54.49 shipping
Built in BMS (Battery Management System) makes sure that your investment in
the battery and equipment is protected from any unintended acc

Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

One thing to consider when you downgrade battery capacity while the 
vehicle's daily mission stays the same: your battery cycle life will 
decrease, because you'll be using a greater percentage of its capacity each 
day.

I don't know what salvaged or new Leaf and Volt batteries go for, but IIRC 
the last time I checked, the best price I found for bare Chinese lithium 
iron phosphate cells was about $1.25 per amp hour.  Thus a 100 amp hour, 
3.2v cell would cost $125 plus shipping.  A 34 cell, 108v battery would be 
something over $4200.  

Meanwhile, a new 108v lead battery will cost between $1400 and $2400, 
depending on brand, capacity, and your location.  Most likely you'll be able 
to pick it up locally, so you won't have to pay to have it shipped.

Since the LiFePo4 battery is apt to last at least 3 times as long as lead, 
it would seem that you're money ahead with lithium.  This is what the 
several lithium proponents here on the EVDL will argue, quite persuasively, 
sometimes even rather stridently.  

But once you've bought your new lithium cells, youi're not done.  You still 
have to pay for:

1. Shipping.  This can add hundreds of dollars, and possibly weeks of 
waiting, to the lithium price.  

2. BMS.  You have to choose from different types.  Which is best?  The EVDL 
should be able to help..

3. Probably a new charger.  

4. Rebuilding or modifying your existing battery boxes or racks to 
accommodate the different battery shape and size.

5. Modifying the car's suspension, which is (or should be) tuned to a 1200lb 
lead battery.

6. Your own time and labor, or someone else's, studying how to do the 
upgrade, and installing it.  

OTOH, if you buy new lead batteries, it's way simpler.  You remove the old 
ones and take them to the battery dealer as cores, pick the new ones up, 
bring them home, drop them in, connect them, and away you go.

Here's an interesting lead vs lithium comparison written by US Battery, who 
of course want to defend their lead batteries:

http://usbattery.com/lithium-vs-flooded-lead-acid-batteries/

I have some problems with it because they're trying to argue that three 12v, 
150ah batteries will deliver 750 cycles.  IMO that's way too optimistic. 

However, six USBMC 2200s are much more likely to return those 750 cycles 
with good care, and they're only about 10% more than the price USBMC give 
for the three 12v batteries.  So even if you increase their bottom line cost 
per kWh for lead to 13 cents, and assume that lithiums aren't as expensive 
as USBMC claim, lead still costs about half as much per kWh delivered.

Don't get me wrong, lithium has significant benefits, including lower 
weight, better range, and a flatter voltage curve on discharge.  But lead 
batteries are still the cost-per-mile champs, though their margin has 
narrowed over the years.  

The bottom line is that if lead batteries meet your vehicle mission needs, 
and you've been satisfied with them, I don't see any particular reason for 
you to change to lithium.

That said, I don't think I'd recommend downgrading your capacity, for the 
reason I gave above.

Let us know how it goes.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not 
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my 
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[Hazem Sedra via EV]

Thoughtful and detailed reply, thanks David.


Crown CR 205 which is comparable to Trojans in quality will cost me $94.99/bat 
X 18=$1709.82.

The battery boxes are already there, just 2hrs of healthy manual labor expended 
on a weekend and I will have my EV grin back.

Everything is in place and familiar to me.


Unfortunately,  Lithiums have remained at the same price since I purchased my 
EV 9 years ago.


I was hoping Bob Rice(miss his EVDL posts greatly) would make a visit and help 
me get rid of these badderies, as he called them, and get a lithium upgrade, 
but sadly that did not happen.


These badderies if you take care of them are not that bad(depending on your 
specific needs).

Hazem





From: EV  on behalf of EVDL Administrator via EV 

Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2018 2:27 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: EVDL Administrator
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

One thing to consider when you downgrade battery capacity while the
vehicle's daily mission stays the same: your battery cycle life will
decrease, because you'll be using a greater percentage of its capacity each
day.

I don't know what salvaged or new Leaf and Volt batteries go for, but IIRC
the last time I checked, the best price I found for bare Chinese lithium
iron phosphate cells was about $1.25 per amp hour.  Thus a 100 amp hour,
3.2v cell would cost $125 plus shipping.  A 34 cell, 108v battery would be
something over $4200.

Meanwhile, a new 108v lead battery will cost between $1400 and $2400,
depending on brand, capacity, and your location.  Most likely you'll be able
to pick it up locally, so you won't have to pay to have it shipped.

Since the LiFePo4 battery is apt to last at least 3 times as long as lead,
it would seem that you're money ahead with lithium.  This is what the
several lithium proponents here on the EVDL will argue, quite persuasively,
sometimes even rather stridently.

But once you've bought your new lithium cells, youi're not done.  You still
have to pay for:

1. Shipping.  This can add hundreds of dollars, and possibly weeks of
waiting, to the lithium price.

2. BMS.  You have to choose from different types.  Which is best?  The EVDL
should be able to help..

3. Probably a new charger.

4. Rebuilding or modifying your existing battery boxes or racks to
accommodate the different battery shape and size.

5. Modifying the car's suspension, which is (or should be) tuned to a 1200lb
lead battery.

6. Your own time and labor, or someone else's, studying how to do the
upgrade, and installing it.

OTOH, if you buy new lead batteries, it's way simpler.  You remove the old
ones and take them to the battery dealer as cores, pick the new ones up,
bring them home, drop them in, connect them, and away you go.

Here's an interesting lead vs lithium comparison written by US Battery, who
of course want to defend their lead batteries:

http://usbattery.com/lithium-vs-flooded-lead-acid-batteries/
[http://usbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/USBattery-New-Labels-400w.jpg]<http://usbattery.com/lithium-vs-flooded-lead-acid-batteries/>

U.S. Battery | Leader in Deep Cycle Batteries | Lithium vs 
...<http://usbattery.com/lithium-vs-flooded-lead-acid-batteries/>
usbattery.com
Comparing The Real Cost Benefits For Use In Golf Cars And Other Industrial Uses




I have some problems with it because they're trying to argue that three 12v,
150ah batteries will deliver 750 cycles.  IMO that's way too optimistic.

However, six USBMC 2200s are much more likely to return those 750 cycles
with good care, and they're only about 10% more than the price USBMC give
for the three 12v batteries.  So even if you increase their bottom line cost
per kWh for lead to 13 cents, and assume that lithiums aren't as expensive
as USBMC claim, lead still costs about half as much per kWh delivered.

Don't get me wrong, lithium has significant benefits, including lower
weight, better range, and a flatter voltage curve on discharge.  But lead
batteries are still the cost-per-mile champs, though their margin has
narrowed over the years.

The bottom line is that if lead batteries meet your vehicle mission needs,
and you've been satisfied with them, I don't see any particular reason for
you to change to lithium.

That said, I don't think I'd recommend downgrading your capacity, for the
reason I gave above.

Let us know how it goes.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = 

Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 1 May 2018 at 21:02, Hazem Sedra via EV wrote:

> Crown CR 205 which is comparable to Trojans in quality will cost me $94.99/bat
> X 18=$1709.82.

At Deepcyclebatterystore.com, I found prices and spec sheets for Crown 
batteries.  The spec sheets are more complete than some I've seen.  They 
give cycle life estimates at 100%, 50%, 40%, and 20% DOD.  (I wish they'd 
include 80%.)

CR-205: 205ah at C20, 105 minutes at 75a, 1050 cycles @ 50% DOD, $95
CR-220: 220ah at C20, 110 minutes at 75a, 1200 cycles @ 50% DOD, $120
CR-235: 235ah at C20, 125 minutes at 75a, 1200 cycles @ 50% DOD, $130
CR-260, 260ah at C20, 150 minutes at 75a, 1200 cycles @ 50% DOD, $157

With these data, we can compare the cost per kWh of use of their different 
models.

First we compute the total kWh shifted by the batteries over their estimated 
lifetimes.  We use the 75a reserve capacity since 75a is reasonably close to 
an average EV driving current (unless you're a real leadfoot).

For example, the CR-205 would be 

105/60 * 75 * 6 = 788Wh @ 75a / 2 (50%DOD) = 394Wh * 1050 cycles = 394 kWh

Repeating the math for the CR-220, CR-235, and CR-260 we get 412 kWh, 469 
kWh, and 563 kWh respectively.  

So now we can work out the cost per kWh shifted, and also estimate average 
cost per mile, assuming your car uses a typical 250 Wh/mi.

CR-205 = 24.1 cents per kWh, 6 cents per mile
CR-220 = 29.1 cents per kWh, 7.3 cents per mile
CR-235 = 27.7 cents per kWh, 6.9 cents per mile
CR-260 = 27.9 cents per kWh, 7 cents per mile

When you look at the real life cost per mile, the results may not be exactly 
congruent to these numbers.  For equivalent driving, the lower capacity 
battery will work harder which can shorten its cycle life.  

On the other hand, it's also pushing around a slightly ligher car.  In a 
3000lb car, the CR-205 will make the car 72lb (2.4%) lighter compared to a 
pack of CR-220s, and 126lb (4.2%) lighter compared to one with a pack of CR-
260s.  I don't think it will make very much difference, but theoretically 
the peak acceleration currents could be slightly lower, contributing to 
slighly longer battery cycle life.

All that said, if Crown's cycle life estimates are accurate across the 
different battery models, or at least similarly inaccurate :-), this gives 
you a good idea where the overall value lies within this one battery brand.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not 
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my 
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 1 May 2018 at 21:52, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

> For example, the CR-205 would be 
> 
> 105/60 * 75 * 6 = 788Wh @ 75a / 2 (50%DOD) = 394Wh * 1050 cycles = 394 kWh
> 
> Repeating the math for the CR-220, CR-235, and CR-260 we get 412 kWh, 469 kWh,
> and 563 kWh respectively.  
> 
> So now we can work out the cost per kWh shifted, and also estimate average
> cost per mile, assuming your car uses a typical 250 Wh/mi.
> 
> CR-205 = 24.1 cents per kWh, 6 cents per mile
> CR-220 = 29.1 cents per kWh, 7.3 cents per mile
> CR-235 = 27.7 cents per kWh, 6.9 cents per mile
> CR-260 = 27.9 cents per kWh, 7 cents per mile

Oops, it appears that I accidentally juggled some figures when I added the 
CR-260 to the comparison as an afterthought.  Let's try again.

CR-205: (105/60) * 75 * 6 / 2 * 1050 = 413kWh => 23.0 cents/kWh
CR-220: (110/60) * 75 * 6 / 2 * 1200 = 495kWh => 24.2 cents/kWh
CR-235: (125/60) * 75 * 6 / 2 * 1200 = 563kWh => 23.1 cents/kWh
CR-260: (150/60) * 75 * 6 / 2 * 1200 = 675kWh => 23.3 cents/kWh

Interesting how close those bottom line figures are, no?

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not 
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my 
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[brucedp5 via EV]

% Hazem's Sartell-MN neighbor Lee Hart might know of a MN person that could
help with any future EV repairs/issues.

Changing a pack is a good opportunity for modifications/additions. Like
adding battery plate warmers and or pack insulation.
https://www.google.com/search?q=car+battery+heater

https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+battery+heater

According to Lee's (dated) post:
https://www.mail-archive.com/ev@lists.evdl.org/msg19192.html
battery heating pads
Lee Hart via EV Tue, 03 Jan 2017 

He likes using an electric blanket keep his pack warm. 
Which would mean two $30 120VAC blankets for both front & rear packs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+blanket&tbm=shop&tbs=p_ord:p

I'll assume Hazem hasn't changed a pack before. This 1st time pack change
will take at least two days (do not be in a hurry, do it right), so be sure
to have alternate transport (go to work, run to the store, etc.).

It is important to do your prepitory homework ahead of time. On paper, map
out both the front and rear battery packs, noting the battery orientation  +
& - terminal positions), and map the battery cable routing.

I also like to number each cable: after each cables removal and cleaning, I
use a permanent marker to label each one so they go back to the same
position,

Cleaning the cables and the racks they sit in is important. You not only can
note/document wear-n-tear, but also the cleaning neutralizes acid
buildup/corrosion.

The 1st time I changed my Solar Electric conversion (my former S10 Blazer
http://brucedp.tripod.com/blazer/
) I did the above: documentation, used a windex-type glass cleaner & paper
wipes, a bottle of rubbing/isopropyl alcohol, and had a voltmeter
by-the-ready.

You should have a voltmeter. Walmart has them for ~$10
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neiko-40508-830B-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Resistance-Current/197985834

This also a good time to check the health of the 12V auxiliary battery (if
it is 9yrsold, then its time to replace it too
https://www.solar-electric.com/repoba12vo95.html
), and verify the voltage output of the DC to DC & 12V charger are set
correctly. In the past I thought setting the 12V charge voltage to finish at
14.4V was correct. Since then, I have found 13.8 to 14V is best for me (it
seems to be more gentle on the 12V deep-cycle aux battery).

After recording your finishing pack and aux battery voltages, disconnect the
chargers from the AC power, and turn/pull the red emergency switch to off.

Use the mild-alkaline glass cleaner to clean the surfaces of the batteries
before removal 
(I used a ~$10 battery lifter strap the battery source supplied
http://www.ezred.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/BK560.jpg
- do not use the lifter type that lifts using the posts= very bad
https://d26maze4pb6to3.cloudfront.net/8413/6363/7683/CarryStrap.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=car+battery+lifter+strap
), and later use the glass cleaner as a first pass to clean the cables (the
cables will need a second cleaning using the alcohol to remove the glass
cleaner residue). 

After the batteries are removed, use the glass cleaner to clean the racks
before the new batteries go in. If you find corrosion, then those areas will
need a cleaning/scrubbing using a baking soda +water solution to neutralize
that area, then several passes of water rinsing, and then the glass cleaner
to remove the dried baking soda powder residue.

Battery cable's terminals (I assume yours are the automotive post type
https://www.zoro.com/quickcable-straight-terminal-20-ga-orange-pos-4020-525-001p/i/G7499782/
 should be cleaned with alcohol, and checked for corrosion both on the
terminal/lug and lug-bolt/nut, but also for any corrosion that has creeped
up into the cable's crimped lug end.

After several years of pack changes, the cables solar-electric made were
tired, and I had to learn how to make new ones by cutting 00 cable to
length, striping back & putting noalox on the ends
https://www.google.com/search?q=noalox
 and then using a crimping tool putting new terminal/lugs on.

Hazem may not need to replace his cables at this time, but he should clean
the ends well. 

After the pack has been replaced, and after a couple of weeks of driving &
the terminal/lug bolt tightness re-checked (driving vibration loosens them)
... at the very end of all of that, then you apply an anti-corrosion grease
coating on outside metal terminal/lug surfaces (do not use the cheapie spray
on type, it does not last)
https://www.google.com/search?q=battery+corrosion+grease+coating

Charging @work
If I did my web search correct, Hazem has two locations he visits/works at.
His Zivan NG3 is a 3kW 208-240VAC input charger, which will work fine off a
6-20
https://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/leviton-5821-w.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuZSY7q3n2gIVDYrICh0kBQO1EAkYBCABEgJkVvD_BwE
 or higher amperage outlets (using an adapter, i.e.: 14-50 to 6-20, etc.).

Note: when public EVSE is installed in his area, those EVSE may not work
with his zivan charger. Zivan

Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...

[jerry freedomev via EV]

   Hi Bruce, Hazem and All,    Why not have the battery company 
change them?  It's their job and they have the backs, equipment, place for it.  
      They do all the other cars, golfcarts, NEVs, RVs, boats, Home battery 
packs, etc for free.   Jerry 

  From: brucedp5 via EV 
 To: ev@lists.evdl.org 
Cc: brucedp5 
 Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2018 11:47 AM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hazem's 108V PbSO4 pack change: Zivan charger setting ...
   
% Hazem's Sartell-MN neighbor Lee Hart might know of a MN person that could
help with any future EV repairs/issues.

Changing a pack is a good opportunity for modifications/additions. Like
adding battery plate warmers and or pack insulation.
https://www.google.com/search?q=car+battery+heater

https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+battery+heater

According to Lee's (dated) post:
https://www.mail-archive.com/ev@lists.evdl.org/msg19192.html
battery heating pads
Lee Hart via EV Tue, 03 Jan 2017 

He likes using an electric blanket keep his pack warm. 
Which would mean two $30 120VAC blankets for both front & rear packs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+blanket&tbm=shop&tbs=p_ord:p

I'll assume Hazem hasn't changed a pack before. This 1st time pack change
will take at least two days (do not be in a hurry, do it right), so be sure
to have alternate transport (go to work, run to the store, etc.).

It is important to do your prepitory homework ahead of time. On paper, map
out both the front and rear battery packs, noting the battery orientation  +
& - terminal positions), and map the battery cable routing.

I also like to number each cable: after each cables removal and cleaning, I
use a permanent marker to label each one so they go back to the same
position,

Cleaning the cables and the racks they sit in is important. You not only can
note/document wear-n-tear, but also the cleaning neutralizes acid
buildup/corrosion.

The 1st time I changed my Solar Electric conversion (my former S10 Blazer
http://brucedp.tripod.com/blazer/
) I did the above: documentation, used a windex-type glass cleaner & paper
wipes, a bottle of rubbing/isopropyl alcohol, and had a voltmeter
by-the-ready.

You should have a voltmeter. Walmart has them for ~$10
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neiko-40508-830B-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Resistance-Current/197985834

This also a good time to check the health of the 12V auxiliary battery (if
it is 9yrsold, then its time to replace it too
https://www.solar-electric.com/repoba12vo95.html
), and verify the voltage output of the DC to DC & 12V charger are set
correctly. In the past I thought setting the 12V charge voltage to finish at
14.4V was correct. Since then, I have found 13.8 to 14V is best for me (it
seems to be more gentle on the 12V deep-cycle aux battery).

After recording your finishing pack and aux battery voltages, disconnect the
chargers from the AC power, and turn/pull the red emergency switch to off.

Use the mild-alkaline glass cleaner to clean the surfaces of the batteries
before removal 
(I used a ~$10 battery lifter strap the battery source supplied
http://www.ezred.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/BK560.jpg
- do not use the lifter type that lifts using the posts= very bad
https://d26maze4pb6to3.cloudfront.net/8413/6363/7683/CarryStrap.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=car+battery+lifter+strap
), and later use the glass cleaner as a first pass to clean the cables (the
cables will need a second cleaning using the alcohol to remove the glass
cleaner residue). 

After the batteries are removed, use the glass cleaner to clean the racks
before the new batteries go in. If you find corrosion, then those areas will
need a cleaning/scrubbing using a baking soda +water solution to neutralize
that area, then several passes of water rinsing, and then the glass cleaner
to remove the dried baking soda powder residue.

Battery cable's terminals (I assume yours are the automotive post type
https://www.zoro.com/quickcable-straight-terminal-20-ga-orange-pos-4020-525-001p/i/G7499782/
 should be cleaned with alcohol, and checked for corrosion both on the
terminal/lug and lug-bolt/nut, but also for any corrosion that has creeped
up into the cable's crimped lug end.

After several years of pack changes, the cables solar-electric made were
tired, and I had to learn how to make new ones by cutting 00 cable to
length, striping back & putting noalox on the ends
https://www.google.com/search?q=noalox
 and then using a crimping tool putting new terminal/lugs on.

Hazem may not need to replace his cables at this time, but he should clean
the ends well. 

After the pack has been replaced, and after a couple of weeks of driving &
the terminal/lug bolt tightness re-checked (driving vibration loosens them)
... at the very end of all of that, then you apply an anti-corrosion grease
coating on outside metal terminal/lug surfaces (do not use the cheapie spray
on type, it