no brown blocks
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 4/19/2006 5:46:33 PM Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Salt blocks were originally meant for cattle. I agree with Jo. The brown mineral blocks are also NOT formulated for horses. They are mixed for cows. Use the white ones. If your soil or feed is selenium deficient, use a mineral suppliment in your feeding program and do not depend on each horse getting the correct amount from licking a block. I scatter loose trace minerals along with the vitamins over their noon food ( an alfalfa pellet ) and corn oil. Lisa
RE: Salt blocks
This message is from: "Karen McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have been so busy that I totally missed the salt block thread. We have 3 big pastures, and have between 7-9 horses per pasture, each pasture is about 20acres. We don't use salt blocks anymore, as we found that after about a month, the horses really decreased the use of them. Maybe thethey became 'stale'? At any rate,Dave gets bagged loose mineralized salt from a local supplement manufacturer (Vaquero Supplement). He puts about 5-7 cups at a time out in feeders fixed on the fences. The horses really like it, and we just add a bit more in a week or so. So far, no 'over indulgers' have been noted! Karen McCarthyGreat Basin Fjords :: Carson City, Nevadahttp://www.picturetrail.com/weegees
training tots, teasing+HOBBLES
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 4/19/2006 5:46:33 PM Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > To tell you the truth; the way he is now, I don't even know how to put a > halter on him. He came back so skittish. he's never going there anymore. > That's > for sure. > Have you got tips for me to still get him where we want him, leading and > so? > Hi Ellen. You sound so discouraged ! Never say neverI have seen wild adult mustangs, captured off the range turn around and become good ranch, family horses. This is a minor setback. You need to get this guy in a small area with momma so you can work with him. If you let them roam around, it may not get better for a long time. Once you have put them in an area where they cannot avoid you, spend alot of time, in and out, brushing, currying, feeding, cleaning ect. Do not grab at or force your youngster to be handled. Sit or even better ( so you can avoid getting kicked ) squat down and invite him over. Spend alot of time brushing momma first, maybe for a couple of days or even a week as many times a day as you can. He will learn that you are not interested in him, or catching him, and pretty soon I predict he will be pulling at your shoelaces, and bumping into you for some of his own brushing. Do not grab at his head, start with the sides, neck, rear end. I do not allow my foals to swing that fuzz butt at me for scritchs on demand though ! Ignore rude " asking " and a strong swat if he fires at you. Anyway, I predict with giving momma attention he will come around. Dont let her be rude either. If she spends time " blocking " you from him, tie her up in that small space, but do not put yourself in between the two of them. Soon, momma will teach him by her non-actions that its OK again for you to be around. Good-Luck ! * It sounds like your experience with breeding this mare was horrible. It takes a good deal of understanding sometimes to get it all right when we humans interfere. The best way to tell if a mare is ready to be bred is to have a vet examine her internally. He / she will determine when her folicle will be large enough, so that giving that shot will also have effect. Giving a shot to bring a mare into heat at the wrong time in her cycle is usless. Teasing her is another way, but has to be done with a stallion, and many mares will show in heat when they are NOT ready to be covered, and some mares will also give quiet signals when they are in raging heat..which is why some responsible breeders may use breeding hobbles. They help protect a stallion from getting a serious or life threatening kick from a wellplaced hoof, from a maiden or reluctant mare. I believe that Lauren Sellers lost a beautiful stallion from a pasture kick by a mare.Just FYI, good luck with your little guy ! Lisa Pedersen / Pedersens Fjords * Cedar City, UT.
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> How can you give a foal a carrot. No teeth? Jean Gayle Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mark pointed out that I was saying twenty pound salt block instead of fifty. Certainly a quarter of fifty pounds is what alarms me. Jean Gayle Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
name this
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 4/19/2006 5:46:33 PM Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Snowy's Abra our sweetheart gave us a > beautiful grey filly. Yes Yes yes. Looking for a good original name any > suggestions? > Lets seemares, " Abra " ? How about " Cadabra " ? Congrats Lauren ! Lisa
RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "Skeels, Mark A \(GE Healthcare\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ellen: My experience is maybe yes, maybe no. I think if you would have been with him every day my experience is it probably wouldn't have happened, but also I have had baby's do this, and it was easy to correct. Usually within a week or two of occasional attention such as the previous post mentioned. Keep doing things with the mare, the baby will probably try to stay on the opposite side of mama from you, It will be all right though. Like the previous post said, short little touches, rump at first, then other areas as they warm up. I have found it better to be in a confined area when you are doing this, like a stall or small 12x14 or so paneled area. You can warm them up to things like ropes and other things just like training a older horse that hasn't been imprinted. Once you get a small halter on them you could leave it on for a while. Not long periods so they get sores, but for a few hours at a time. I have left a halter on a few days at a time for real skittish baby, after a couple weeks of this you'll have a baby that won't mind you any more. I have also caught and put the halters on them when they were a little frightened and once the halter is on and they get used to it clip the lead rope on and use the resistance game, pull if they pull, let loose if they give. Don't be so hard as to hurt their neck though. Sounds like the stallion owner was trying to catch the foal heat, which can occur 5-8 days after birth. I have done this a couple times, as well as I took my mare to another stallion once in foal heat. I think it is better to give the mare a couple months though and then put the mare across the fence from the stallion and when she goes in heat you'll know, I don't agree with giving pills to bring a mare into heat unless it is a mare that just won't come into heat all the way. But if your mare was bred once she probably doesn't have that problem. I don't like hobbles either, I think to much can go wrong, If there is chemistry between the horses you won't have to worry about kicking and that sort of thing too much, they will just automatically know what to do, if your mare was kicking after being bred once, she probably wasn't in good heat or just didn't like the stallion. My experience is some mares kick the first time bred, but after their first foal, they just sorta know what it's about and don't kick any more unless they aren't in heat. Other mares don't even kick the first time if they are in heat. But again, most, in my experience do kick if they aren't in heat. The other thing, I have had better luck putting the horses across the fence from each other for a couple days if they are new acquaintances, so they get to know each other a little and things go a lot better. Don't just take your mare over and plop them together, your looking for trouble. Mark Skeels -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ellen Barry Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 8:59 PM To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com Subject: RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT This message is from: Ellen Barry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So, if I understand correctly: He would have behaved like this even if he hadn't left my property? Even after imprinting? Ellen. Vanessa N Weber <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: This message is from: "Vanessa N Weber" In human babies this is called the 'stranger anxiety' phase. It takes about
RE: Salt blocks
This message is from: "Skeels, Mark A \(GE Healthcare\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think I deleted the origional Salt post, but if I recall you said in one that you were using a 20 pound salt block, is that a brick or the block. I think mine weigh closer to 50 pounds, they are about a foot tall, and maybe 10 inches square, they have a 2-3 inch deep dish shaped indent on the top. They either weigh close to 50 pounds or I am getting pretty weak in my 43 year old age. But then I'm also talking the trace mineral blocks. Have never really picked up a solid salt block. If you are refeering to the smaller salt brick size, then maybe 1/4 isn't that much. The only time I have seen my horses devour one of these blocks is when it wasn't really a salt block, but one of the sweet blocks, basically sweet feed compressed into the block shape, they would take chunks out of that, gone in a couple days or less with 2-3 horses. Mark Skeels
Re: Riding after Knee Surgery
This message is from: Genie Dethloff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ... And when I envision what would happen if I came off and landed on itshudder!! I just did not realize how badly I could hurt myself, and sometimes it's all I can think about!! My trainer is working hard to help me mover past this, I have a book to recommend: "Overcoming the Fear of Riding" by Theresa Jordan and Peter De Michele. It really helped me start riding again and to get over my fear. Don't be put off by the stories of eventers and famous riders, it really does eventually talk to the average rider. It helps you evaluate the pros and cons and consider each actual risk and decide if it is an acceptable risk for you to take. Some risks are not worth taking at this point in time; your perception may change over time. For now respect that riding bareback is not an acceptable risk to you. For me, it took a long time to be willing to drop my stirrups or be lunged on the horse without reins or stirrups even at the walk. Now it is second nature to me and it is an acceptable risk. Two good friends recently fell off being lunged without stirrups or reins, but it had to do with how their horses behave. Finne the fjord doesn't spoke or act squirrely like their horses so I don't feel the great risk, but I wouldn't do it on either of their horses. Good luck with your continuing healing. -- Genie Dethloff Ann Arbor, Michigan
RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "Gail Russell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So, if I understand correctly: He would have behaved like this even if he hadn't left my property? Even after imprinting? Ellen. I think that is possible, but I am really not very experienced with foals. I did have one who was handled easily the first day (not imprinted) and then got spooky about it a few days later. (I know nothing bad happened to her in the interim.) That experience is what I based my post on. This foal did, eventually get over her reticence. At about five weeks, her mother colicked and mom had to be taken to Davis ICU, with baby in tow, with a subsequent regimen of feeding Mom pelleted food 8 times a day. Baby definitely got over her reticencein fact too well.she got into the habit of running right over people in order to share her mother's food as her mother's milk probably pretty much dried up from lack of food. She was basically starving to death...and we were never able to convince her that her foal creep feeder was the way to go. She would leave perfectly good food in the creep, and poach on her Mom's food. Feedings were quite something. Davis told me they thought Mom would die, which just made me determine she would not. First I mixed alfalfa pellets and psyllium pellets and some corn oil with a LOT of water. Mom essentially had to go snorkeling for her food. Mom and baby ended up coated with dried alfalfa/psyllium slop. The vets told me to give her almost nothing at first, with a quarter lb increase each day. Those first days Mom and baby were ravenous! After feeding slop for a couple weeks we converted to dried food fed from an automatic feeder, eight times a day. Baby convinced herself that pawing on the feeder would bring her the food (it did knock loose a few pellets every so often). We were not very popular with the neighbors, as she would start pawing at three AM, and not stop until the feeder went off at its scheduled time about 4 AM. To this day she has a bad habit of pawing feeders when she wants to be fed. Training with food rewards is not easily forgotten. Gail
RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "Gail Russell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Maybe try clicker training him, but maybe not with food. (Food is fine, but he is unlikely to be hooked on it just yet) If you combine VERY VERY subtle round pen techniques with clicker training you may be able to bring him round. Or, as Beth suggested, use butt scratching, as a reward for letting you stick around. If you add a well-timed click, it gives him that much more information about "where butt scratching comes from," i.e. "if I hang out near her I will get my butt scratched." If you were using pressure and release it could go something like this: Move VERY gently toward him from a comfortable distance. If he stands still or looks over at you, "click" and back off. Then move in VERY slowly again. If he moves off, or turns his head away, wait till he looks in your direction. Then "click" and back off. Always try to make it so he does not back off, or even think seriously about it. If you start a long way away (within his comfort zone) you should be able to make progress and reward by backing off without having him run off at all. Just VERY VERY slow steps. The key is in moving so slowly that he succeeds pretty much all the time. Some of the natural horsemanship people understand pressure and release better than I do...as I am used to clicker training with food. However, even with the pressure and release, adding a marker signal like the "click" should help him learn faster. If you use a mechanical clicker the unique sound is likely to make him curious and want to investigate anyway. Gail
RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "Vanessa N Weber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In human babies this is called the 'stranger anxiety' phase. It takes about 9 months to kick into gear and lasts for another 9 months or more. Basically about the time babies get attached to their mother (usually,) they begin to distinguish between 'mother' and 'others'. They become fearful of strangers (stranger anxiety). Stranger anxiety is thus actually a sign that everything is going well and that babies have properly attached to someone. Without attaching to another person, these children can have major emotional problems later in life (i.e. Attachment Disorder). I think it's interesting that something like the attachment process may exist in horses as well. I'd be interested in hearing any other stories about behaviors related to this or regarding orphan foals. I'm a social worker working with families who have problems after they adopt children - many of whom are raised without parents, or who lose parents at an early age You can e-mail me privately, if you wish. Vanessa N Weber, MSW Director Post-Adoption Educational Services [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---Original Message--- From: Gail Russell Date: 04/19/06 18:51:20 To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com Subject: RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT This message is from: "Gail Russell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think it is a matter of maturation. There is a period after they are born when they develop suspicion. Sort of like babies that are completely trusting of everyone until they get to a certain age. This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Where did he go at that young age? Could be that the handling he got in that period caused him to avoid humans? Maybe Clicker training would help..Does he like grain or carrots? - - Text inserted by Panda Platinum 2006 Internet Security: This message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it: http://127.0.0 1:6083/Panda?ID=pav_17180&SPAM=true - -
Riding after Knee Surgery
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Laurie, last Labor Day I broke my leg and blew apart bits of my knee. Had surgery in January to put the knee back together. I have really noticed a psychological difference in my riding which I am fighting to overcome. I just spend way too much time being worried about whether we are too close to that tree, that fence, that post with the bad knee. And when I envision what would happen if I came off and landed on itshudder!! I just did not realize how badly I could hurt myself, and sometimes it's all I can think about!! My trainer is working hard to help me mover past this, but I still can't bring myself to get on bareback at all (I sustained the injury getting on bareback). I view the plus side as getting to really focus on improving my groundwork and our overall relationship Kate and Joe (the multiple personality pony - good boy, bad boy, wild boy, lazy boy) * with my knee surgery, i keep wondering in the back of my head if it's going to make me fearful of riding, since coming off would not be a good plan. i know i will feel confident ground driving him after i am healed, but still wonder about the riding.
Orphan Foals
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Beth said, " Just ask anyone who has raised an orphan how difficult it can be to keep that foal from learning how to push its humans around." And I say, as the owner of an 8 year old orphan foal, AMEN! My poor mare misses her mother so much she nurses herself after you give her a treat. She can't really reach her own teats, but she lifts her hind leg, usually her left, reaches her head back there and sucks on her tongue, for about 4-5 minutes. It is harmless enough as far as I know, so I don't try to interrupt her. If she is tied to the trailer or getting on the trailer, etc., she isn't allowed to, of course. I was wondering if anyone has ever had a foal by such a mother? Would her mental imbalance make her reject a foal? Would she become obsessively attached to it forever? Just wondering, Valerie
Re: knee surgery
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 4/19/06 6:46:28 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > So Laurie, > > How long has it been now since your knee surgery? my friend Walt Brunner > was riding some (in a Parelli clinic even) five months after his knee > replacement. > jean, it was done two weeks ago today. i am amazed myself at my progress. i dumped the walker for a cane after 3 days of PT before i left the hospital and sometimes at home i forget to use it. i have been driving myself to PT since the end of last week, have managed to do the dozen stairs in our house since the day i got home. i am going to take a few extra weeks before going back to work to concentrate on my physical therapy. i can work from home, and they won't miss me. the pain was a whole lot less than i had anticipated, and i am so stubborn that whatever is put in front of me, i am going to handle. i do my walking outside on our property, and for the most part feel great...and grateful. i can't put a date on the finish of the rehab, but i certainly feel i will be pretty much back to almost normal in a few weeks. laurie
Re: general on selling fjords.
This message is from: "Melinda Schumacher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi--I haven't sold any horses, but I looked on equine.com for (local) fjords, and that's how I found mine to purchase. Melinda On 4/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Just for my own information and it might be interesting to other folks > on the list. Those of you who have been successful - where do you get > the most inquiries from when you sell your fjords? People interested in > Driving,draft, riding, dressage, other? Have you had much difficulty > selling them? How do potential people find you best- in person, shows, > internet, print advertising, functions hosted on your own place? What > is the single biggest obstacle that you see in marketing? > > Kathy in SE Idaho - after mondays blizzard and flooding it is at least > sunshiney today ( but cold) > -- Coaching with Melinda Schumacher, MD Personal Empowerment through Creative Expression and Equine Experiential Learning Fly Without Wings www.flywithoutwings.net Gestalt Practitioner www.gestaltcleveland.org EAGALA Level I Certified www.eagala.org
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: Starfire Farm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carol, This is a far better description of what you meant rather than the "forceful" language you used in your earlier posts such as: we INSIST our babies are taught to propel themselves We teach the babies to come from behind and and at the same time, teach them to respect and REACT By encouraging them to move energetically forward, and then "checking" the movement with your hand on the leadrope, This works for us as the first lesson in attention, obedience, impulsion, and a tiny bit of "collection". As I said earlier, I do become concerned about semantics when one talks of training horses. Nuances in descriptions can mean so many different things to different people. This e-mail forum is an important educational tool for many people, and so I feel that one has to be careful when using certain terms. Thank you for taking the time to elaboratealthough I still can't get past the collection part.. Nice to hear that that rope halter is finally getting some use..;-) Beth Starfire Farm Beth Beymer and Sandy North http://www.starfirefarm.com Beaver Dam Farm wrote: This message is from: "Beaver Dam Farm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello from Carol Rivoire at Beaver Dam Farm in Nova Scotia -- Hi Ruthie, I'd be glad to tell you what we do. This message is from: "bushnell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT - would it be possible to maybe please share a couple of ways that you do promote impulsion from the back, in youngsters? It starts with the day or 2-day old foal. Be sure he's well bonded with the mother so he'll want to follow - The ideal thing for education's sake is to have the foal born in a stable, and then lead him out to the field every day. I say this because those born in the pasture can turn into little wild ponies before you know it. If they're born inside and led back and forth each day, they become much more civilized much earlier. Of course he'll want to follow his mother making it easy for you. -- Start the leading within a day or two because if you wait too long which can be only a few days, the little thing gets quite independent, so isn't always inclined to follow the mother. He also gets much much stronger. Put a foal slip halter on the baby. This is the kind with only a short tab under the chin so that if he gets away from you he won't trip on a leadrope. -- Holding onto the tab under chin, loop a big, soft, cotton rop around his hindquarters, and bring the ends together over his back. Now cluck at him pulling on the butt rope and start to walk. he'll get the idea. Always cluck, start to walk, and pull him with the butt rope from back to front. -- It really is ideal to do this everyday. Guaranteed it will make your life easier later on. That's the start. Next step comes when he understands leading, and doesn't need the butt rope anymore. -- Now you can walk beside him either holding the tab on the foal slip, or better, running a soft cotton rope through the halter and holding this in your right hand. The rope should not have any clip on it. You run it through the halter, rather than tying or clipping to the halter so that if he gets away, the rope will slip through and out without tripping him. Next step is to familiarize the foal with a whip by running it all over his body, between his legs, under his belly so that he is not the least bit afraid of it. Now walk beside the foal holding the leadline in your left hand, and a dressage whip in the right. -- It's necessary to use a dressage whip because of its length. Cluck at him to go forward and touch him at the same time on his body with the whip. If you can touch him approximately where the leg goes when riding, that's the best. -- Not a good idea to touch him on top of the rump as that often makes them buck a little. Do NOT pull him with the leadline. We find that this makes them resentful, and then they get stiff in the neck. We're working toward soft compliance. We don't want stiffness in any part of his body. Change sides to lead from the left side. Maybe out to the pasture leading on the right side, and back in on the left side. Try to remember to lead from both sides always. This really does help keep them supple in the neck. When he gets used to the whip touching him, you can use it a bit more to indicate more energy. -- After he's going well on one side, switch to the other side. -- If you don't he'll be stiff in the neck. -- Also, remember that you NEED TO generate (and show) energy with your own body language. When you want more energy from your pupil, show it with your body and your voice. Each time you train him on the leadline asking him to go forward from the rear, remember that he must not barge ahead of you. Your leadline is there to check that energy. -- If he's got an easy temperament this will go easily for you. -- I
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: bolinsj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All is well with our 'herd' right now. I made the mistake of agreeing to take Kilar to our local driving club pleasure driving show next month. He sheds out slowly so I decided to clip him this year. What a nightmare! He looks like someone tried to clip him with a sharpened putty knife. Blades are dull, lost screws from blade changes, clipper stops working. Murphy's Laws in action. He actually looks pretty good this spring. Not too much pork on, but enough he doesn't l,ook like he needs to be fed either. Thank goodness he is a very patient and forgiving guy. (Just carry carrots). Give Gunnar a nice tail skritch from John and I. We're expecting to see Marsha Korose and Curtis Pierce this spring with a couple of their Fjordies. An overnighter at our house and a CDE nearby. Sounds like fun. I will spectate! Tried the CDE route and like it NOT. Kilar seemed to enjoy it though. Of course, he just likes to get out and meet new people and check out their pockets for goodies. Martie B jgayle wrote: > This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Thanks Martie, I have been wondering if putting the big block by the > trough is not causing salty water also! You may be right that it will > taper off but not so far, two weeks. He does not like the mineral > blocks as well. Hope things are going well with your dears. Jean
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: Starfire Farm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello Ellen, This is what I would recommend with your foal. Just go in with your mare, in a small area like a large foaling stall or a round pen, or have her on a halter and leadrope, and hang out with your mare. Feeding her. Grooming her. Basically loving on her. Let the foal get curious about you without you trying to touch it yourself. When it does, you can "accidentally" let it bump into you, or "accidentally" brush against it with your hand. Little things like that, as long as it doesn't think you are going after it. When it can stay near mom with you there, you might start trying to scratch it. They like the butt the best. When that's good, you can scratch other itchy areas. It could take several days, but if you take it at the foal's pace, you should be able to win its trust back. Beth Ellen Barry wrote: This message is from: Ellen Barry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Jean (and also Linda Lottie) It's all my own fault. I'm such an ignorant beginner that I believe almost anything people are saying. It started out with a question from the vet. He asked me if I was going to breed my QH mare again. I said a wouldn't mind having another baby in 2 or 3 years. He told me that I shouldn't do that. That was bad for her. I should never breed her anymore or keep doing it for a couple of years in a row. OK. So I contacted the guy who bred her before. He came over and said to me: Oh, she's definitely in heat. I'll take her to my stallion. So there she went; off with her baby in the trailer. She kicked the living s... out of the stallion. So the guy says: I gave her a shot to get her into heat better. To make a long story short: I had had enough of this after a week away from home. My mare and foal were cooked up inside for over a week in a 10 x 12 stall and nothing to relieve the boredom. My foal started eating my mare's tail and started being uneasy with people. When the guy started talking "hubbles??!!", I said: that's it!!! No rape for my baby. My baby is coming home. I imprinted my foal at birth (4Th of April) and he would follow me around like a puppy. Now I can't even touch him. So I'm about to cry over all this and haven't a clue how to get this right. Like I said; I don't even know how to get a halter on him because he would probably try to kick and flee. I just wish my mare would have kicked the h.. out of the guy in stead of the stallion. He has only just begun to try and eat some grain. He's never had a carrot and would probably not allow me to get so close as to give it to him. Thankfully the mother and Kari my Fjord are very easy going and follow me around. Hopefully he'll see that and start doing it again. When he doesn't look at me, I walk into him. As soon as he makes eye contact, I walk out. That's how I got him to follow me before. 87 degrees now and Kari still showering. Thank God for the sprinklers. Ellen - Celebrate Earth Day everyday! Discover 10 things you can do to help slow climate change. Yahoo! Earth Day
RE: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "Gail Russell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think it is a matter of maturation. There is a period after they are born when they develop suspicion. Sort of like babies that are completely trusting of everyone until they get to a certain age. This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Where did he go at that young age? Could be that the handling he got in that period caused him to avoid humans? Maybe Clicker training would help..Does he like grain or carrots?
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think it is best free choice the salt. I like the lose salt the best .One container of white and one of trace mineral. The biggest problem I find with lose is putting it into something they won't tip. I also keep a couple of blocks in with them. Jim Sherette Billings, MT. Spokane. WA.
First Foal Finally arrives
This message is from: Snowy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> With 3 overdue mares you can beleave me . We were Just a little anxious here. Abra was almost 12 days overdue and with only one breeding you are pretty sure on your date Snowy's Abra our sweetheart gave us a beautiful grey filly. Yes Yes yes. Looking for a good original name any suggestions? She is our last Sven baby as he is now One Grand Grey Gelding. Whom is looking for a big partner. The next 5 babies will be from our new grey stallion Telemark Odin. A beauty we had the pleasure to buy from Vern & Elefson in WI. Odin is a Karibou colt and He has 2 already overdue should be an exciting week here at Snowy Mtn. We are hoping for more healthy babies. Our vet was saying early this morn how so many foals are being born with problems this year.Selenium deficiency being a major problem. We are so pleased to have a healthy baby. Thank god Good luck to all the other breeders out there. Are many others seeing overdue mares? Lauren www.fjordhorse.net A web site that needs updating having to much fun playing with horses instead. Maybe some of you have the same problem. Going to get more of this right now Loving it
Birth Announcement and Mare for Sale
This message is from: "Michele Noonan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> We are proud to announce WHR Elsker's First Progeny WHR Val. born this monday (4/17) Dam is WHR Tonetta (Netta) adorable filly born in a snowstorm. I missed it. Mom was sleeping with butt to wind at 4:30 AM and at 6AM we had a semi dry foal, nursing, and afterbirth passed. Netta is the best first time mom. We were all over that foal, she even took a nap in our lap . WHR Kyrie born the monday before (4/10) Dam is Tone. Very large filly, kinda reminded me of my friends 10lb baby. She looked like you should throw a saddle on her. Both mares went 12 months. We got to watch this one. IF I had gone to bed I would have missed it. She was standing quiet. then started pacing. Filly was born 15 minutes later. Together they are the team of VALKYRIENorwegian Blond Goddess that carry the slain warriors to heaven (OR something like that) These babies were spoken for already by our daughter and son in law Elsker is doing very well. He placed 3rd in two walk trot classes in an open show and 1st in an equitation class. And We were thrilled because he was calm and quiet the whole show. Then this week, two mares were in heat at the arena and he was a knot head. Oh well, I guess a 4 year old can't be perfect ALL the time. MARE FOR SALE We have a 5 year old, 15 hand (Im not joking) mare for sale. NFHR Registered. Very athletic, not very drafty. Has had 30 days training and is scheduled for the next 30 days in 2 weeks. We will sell her bred to Elsker for a 2007 baby (we are breeding her end of April) for $5000. She is just too dang tall for this 5ft tall girl. Email me for pictures. She has beautiful long long legs! Michele Noonan Stevensville, MT
Olivia Farm's New Addition
This message is from: "Olivia Farm, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello from Olivia Farm, We had our first baby of 2006 - a lovely colt by Prydarson out of Hirse Klattrup! He was born April 18th at 2:30 AM, missing Dan's birthday by just a few hours, and was up and nursing by 3:00. We have never had such a strong baby! Mom and baby are doing great. They were turned out today to enjoy the warm spring sun, quite a difference from the below freezing night during which he was born! If you want to check him out, there are photos on our web-site. Speaking of our web-site, obviously it has been updated again. Along with pictures of the new baby, we have added a few new horses to the sales list. Along with our two colts, Soren and Jorgen, we have a green-broke 4 year old mare, Neena, who is turning into a wonderful riding horse and would be suited to any discipline. She stands about 13.3 and was evaluated mid-red as a two year old. The other added is Nossa, a brown dun yearling filly, with beautiful conformation and movement. Both of these girls have been on my "keeper" list, but as my husband always tells me, "you can't keep them all" - they are truly quality fjords that would be great additions to a riding or breeding program. As always, there is more information and pictures on our web-site and on their NFHR pony-web pages. Happy Spring, Solveig Watanabe Olivia Farm www.oliviafarm.com
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Where did he go at that young age? Could be that the handling he got in that period caused him to avoid humans? Maybe Clicker training would help..Does he like grain or carrots? Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska > > My foal was 13 days old when I got him back. > He was following me like a puppy before he left and he came back almost > feral. > > Could I still try to start this with him? > To tell you the truth; the way he is now, I don't even know how to put > a halter on him. He came back so skittish. he's never going there > anymore. That's for sure. > Have you got tips for me to still get him where we want him, leading > and so?
Training Youngstes
This message is from: "Olivia Farm, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello from Olivia Farm, There are so many ways to train a horse, and obviously, not all horses need to be trained in the formal dressage style. I find that most disciplines are aiming for the same goals as dressage - relaxed, nicely gaited, collected horses - but all have different ways of getting there. In my opinion dressage training has nothing to do with getting to competitions - that is just how we can show off the training we have done. As for working with youngsters, I know many breeders (not just of fjords) that wait to do any training (other than necessary leading, trimming, etc.) until the horses are three or four. This works great if you have a really good trainer that knows what they are doing (and on occasion, can sit the bucks), but I find that the owner/trainer, who likes to have an easier time with backing can do a lot of work before hand and make the whole process smoother. A horse that is comfortable with people is easier to work with than one that is wary or even scared. Imprint training, as developed by Dr. Miller, is like any other kind of "training" - in the right hands it makes horses that are nice and easy to handle, but in the wrong hands it makes pushy babies. I really like Dr. Miller's book, Imprint Training of the Newborn Foal. It not only covers imprinting, but basic baby training, and explains how to imprint without having a push baby. I think that there are as many pushy horses out their that have not been imprinted as ones that have. He has an interesting section on teaching the basic elements of collection to a youngster, but I agree with Beth, that it takes a long time to actually attain collection - it being the ultimate goal of the dressage training scale. Basically, any sort of "training" can be either positive or negative. As horse owners we should be careful to not let our horse lean bad habits (in this we could include everything from pulling on the lead or kicking to traveling on the fore-hand and being hard-mouthed if we wanted - but I'm not sure I want to go there) - and try to get our horses trained in the manner we choose to be able to enjoy them to the fullest! Thanks for the discussion! Solveig Watanabe Olivia Farm www.oliviafarm.com
Re: grazing muzzle
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So Laurie, How long has it been now since your knee surgery? my friend Walt Brunner was riding some (in a Parelli clinic even) five months after his knee replacement. Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska sunny and melting, 40 degrees, a lot of snow to go.
Re: implusion maker
This message is from: "Pat Holland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I sure don't know about all of you and your "high fa-looting" talk of impulsion but I get all "that there from behind movement" a plenty when my husband drives past the arena with the tractor on the rabbit and the manure spreader a going. We have all that there piaffes, passage and tempi changes galore. Anky van Grunsven and Salinero (with the highest percentage ever scored in an international Grand Prix freestyle). - why we could be twins out there! In good humor and looking forward (with impulsion) to seeing everyone at the Midwest Horse Fair! Pat Holland ; )
Re: grazing muzzle
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 4/19/06 10:52:55 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Would love to hear from others that got > theirs used to this muzzle. > after asking on the board last year, and getting good advice about the best friends muzzle, i used one on him all last summer. he took to it fine. i may have poked a few blades of grass through the hole at first, but he didn't take long to figure out how it works. because they have to push the end of the muzzle straight down over standing up blades of grass, i could see him out there bringing his head up and then pushing in down, in his attempt to eat. because we put them in a dry lot at night, he was always glad to get it on in the morning, because then he knew he got to go out into the pasture. unfortunately, DH overfed him again this winter. he is at my trainer's not only on a diet, but also being ridden again. after a snotty start on his part (he actually tossed my trainer's daughter, who's been riding him, and playing bronco in the pasture), he has settled down to her doing trotting road work with him, and taking him on the trails. he has lost weight already, and his manners are getting back to where they should be. with my knee surgery, i keep wondering in the back of my head if it's going to make me fearful of riding, since coming off would not be a good plan. i know i will feel confident ground driving him after i am healed, but still wonder about the riding. guess i won't worry about it too much for a while. laurie the gimp, oz the brat
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Deanna, that has been the way until using this first white block without minerals at the Vets suggestion. He is a wonderful Vet so I consider myself lucky, but Fjords are different in so many ways. Will check with him.Jean Gayle Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: salt & how much
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have not talked to the Vet as yet. Gunnar had impacted (before the salt) for the first time ever with me ( I have had him six years) but we had just lost his friend through a long struggle and I had shifted Gunnar to Charley's field as there is much less grass. Gunnar has always been a salt user but not this much and the weather is cool. I will touch base with my Vet. Thanks Jean Gayle Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carol, you are a marvel? My foals are pretty overwhelmed by their surroundings for several days and glued to their mother who parades them about the sixth or seventh day. I love that first prideful showing by the mother and she walks and then does a slow trot with the foal right by her inside hip or shoulder. So what is the new mother doing when you are working this day or two day old foal? Jean Gayle Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: salt & how much
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Martie, I have been wondering if putting the big block by the trough is not causing salty water also! You may be right that it will taper off but not so far, two weeks. He does not like the mineral blocks as well. Hope things are going well with your dears. Jean Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> RE: Jo's comment, "Fjords seem to think anything in a bucket must be for them to snack on"..mine would think the bucket was part of the snack! Cheryl in S. Cal --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Salt blocks were originally meant for cattle. Cows > tongues are much rougher > than a horses. We put hang over buckets with ground > salt up for ours. They seem > to use it much more. During the summer I will even > sprinkle some in with > their hay. It works for us but each horse is > different.Fjords seem to think any > thing in a bucket must be for them to snack on. > Jo Wilgus > Gavilan Hills, CA
general on selling fjords.
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Just for my own information and it might be interesting to other folks on the list. Those of you who have been successful - where do you get the most inquiries from when you sell your fjords? People interested in Driving,draft, riding, dressage, other? Have you had much difficulty selling them? How do potential people find you best- in person, shows, internet, print advertising, functions hosted on your own place? What is the single biggest obstacle that you see in marketing? Kathy in SE Idaho - after mondays blizzard and flooding it is at least sunshiney today ( but cold)
Re: fjordhorse-digest V2006 #83
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have thought that Joe seems to be at the salt block much more than his "herd" of quarter horses, but they don't go through it that fast. Kate and Joe -Original Message- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 20:37:33 -0700 From: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Salt blocks This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anyone worry about the amount of salt their Fjord eats? Just about everytime I look out at Gunnar he is at the salt lick and water tank. He has, in over a week licked about a quarter of the twenty pound block which is white plain salt.! The Vet suggested plain salt brick this last time and I thought I would try it for a bit. However, here we are short on selenium and I have previously been using the mineral blocks. How much salt is too much? Jean Gayle
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Salt blocks were originally meant for cattle. Cows tongues are much rougher than a horses. We put hang over buckets with ground salt up for ours. They seem to use it much more. During the summer I will even sprinkle some in with their hay. It works for us but each horse is different. Fjords seem to think any thing in a bucket must be for them to snack on. Jo Wilgus Gavilan Hills, CA
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "bushnell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Ruthie, I'd be glad to tell you what we do. It starts with the day or 2-day old foal. > The important things to remember when working with this little one, are your goals -- You want to achieve obedience, lightness, and suppleness in the body and neck. Therefore, keep your signals (aids) light. -- Remember to use your body language (your energy) and your voice to influence the horse. This means to influence the horse to put forth more energy from the hind end, and to "dampen" that energy in response to the signals you're giving him on the leadline. Ruthie, I hope this is helpful. Best Regards, Carol Rivoire>> THAT'S A WONDERFUL description of how you train youngsters at Beaver Dam Fjords and I'm grateful for your having taken the time to share your insights and tips with everyone! That's a keeper! (filing it away) This is the kind of practical material that should be on the NFHR Q&A site because I suspect that the majority of Fjord owners are comparatively new to the breed. Thanks so very much for your GENEROSITY of character-- in sharing your practical knowledge about Fjords (the only one to have written a book about them). I'm still waiting on the sequel to the Fjord Horse Handbook that you wrote, as I'm certain you have more than enough additional material for a second book! =) Bless ya! Ruthie, nw mt US
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: bolinsj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is what we've found with our horses. We give them a salt block in their stalls. They have free access to the stalls almost 24/7 (except when wh'ere cleaning out). They eat a lot of salt for a while then taper off. Warm weather - more salt. I found that putting the salt right next to the water trough they were 'playing with' it more, but wasting it (biting off pieces and dropping them. Kilar is a chewer - he bites his salt as often as licks it.) He will occassionaly pick the smaller brick out of his feeder and I'll have to hunt for it, but not too often. Martie in MD [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Research has shown that healthy horses are capable of safely > regulating their salt intake, although they are not able to do that > with other minerals. > > If Gunnar is healthy, he is probably just fine. It may be that he > really likes the taste of plain salt now that you've given it to him. > Mixed mineral blocks can inhibit healthy salt intake, because they can > taste bitter to horses. Most sources recommend always leaving plain > salt freely available to horses, even if you do feed a mixed mineral. > > In my experience, a horse may eat a lot of salt for awhile, but the > salt consumption will eventually slack off. > > DeeAnna
Re: TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT
This message is from: "Beaver Dam Farm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello from Carol Rivoire at Beaver Dam Farm in Nova Scotia -- Hi Ruthie, I'd be glad to tell you what we do. >> This message is from: "bushnell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> TEACHING FJORDS TO WORK FROM BACK TO FRONT - > would it be possible to maybe > please share a couple of ways that you do promote impulsion from the back, > in youngsters? It starts with the day or 2-day old foal. Be sure he's well bonded with the mother so he'll want to follow - The ideal thing for education's sake is to have the foal born in a stable, and then lead him out to the field every day. I say this because those born in the pasture can turn into little wild ponies before you know it. If they're born inside and led back and forth each day, they become much more civilized much earlier. Of course he'll want to follow his mother making it easy for you. -- Start the leading within a day or two because if you wait too long which can be only a few days, the little thing gets quite independent, so isn't always inclined to follow the mother. He also gets much much stronger. Put a foal slip halter on the baby. This is the kind with only a short tab under the chin so that if he gets away from you he won't trip on a leadrope. -- Holding onto the tab under chin, loop a big, soft, cotton rop around his hindquarters, and bring the ends together over his back. Now cluck at him pulling on the butt rope and start to walk. he'll get the idea. Always cluck, start to walk, and pull him with the butt rope from back to front. -- It really is ideal to do this everyday. Guaranteed it will make your life easier later on. That's the start. Next step comes when he understands leading, and doesn't need the butt rope anymore. -- Now you can walk beside him either holding the tab on the foal slip, or better, running a soft cotton rope through the halter and holding this in your right hand. The rope should not have any clip on it. You run it through the halter, rather than tying or clipping to the halter so that if he gets away, the rope will slip through and out without tripping him. Next step is to familiarize the foal with a whip by running it all over his body, between his legs, under his belly so that he is not the least bit afraid of it. Now walk beside the foal holding the leadline in your left hand, and a dressage whip in the right. -- It's necessary to use a dressage whip because of its length. Cluck at him to go forward and touch him at the same time on his body with the whip. If you can touch him approximately where the leg goes when riding, that's the best. -- Not a good idea to touch him on top of the rump as that often makes them buck a little. Do NOT pull him with the leadline. We find that this makes them resentful, and then they get stiff in the neck. We're working toward soft compliance. We don't want stiffness in any part of his body. Change sides to lead from the left side. Maybe out to the pasture leading on the right side, and back in on the left side. Try to remember to lead from both sides always. This really does help keep them supple in the neck. When he gets used to the whip touching him, you can use it a bit more to indicate more energy. -- After he's going well on one side, switch to the other side. -- If you don't he'll be stiff in the neck. -- Also, remember that you NEED TO generate (and show) energy with your own body language. When you want more energy from your pupil, show it with your body and your voice. Each time you train him on the leadline asking him to go forward from the rear, remember that he must not barge ahead of you. Your leadline is there to check that energy. -- If he's got an easy temperament this will go easily for you. -- If he's got more temperament, then it's often effective to put a soft cotton rope over the nose, same way you'd put a chain over a mature horse's nose. -- This is remarkably effective getting them to pay attention, and even to flex, which is the beginning of "giving" in the jaw. -- -- We also have begun using western rope halters, and find them very effective. -- Years ago Beth Beymer visited BDF, and brought us one, and highly recommended it. -- But, being stubborn Yankees at heart, we never used it until recently. Some of you who've been to our Nova Scotia Driving & Riding Vacations may have purchased one of Noel Vinet's books at our farm. Noel is a Canadian Equestrian Federation Certified Coach. A few years ago he wrote a marvelous book called "Pleasures of Carriage Driving" that we've sold to our guests for many years. -- He's just written another book called "Uncovering and Working with your Horse's Personality". It's a very useful book that teaches a lot to beginners, and reminds more experienced people of things they might have learned, but forgotten. About rope halters, he says . . . "Once the rope halter is properly adjusted to your horse's head, you in
Re: Salt blocks
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Research has shown that healthy horses are capable of safely regulating their salt intake, although they are not able to do that with other minerals. If Gunnar is healthy, he is probably just fine. It may be that he really likes the taste of plain salt now that you've given it to him. Mixed mineral blocks can inhibit healthy salt intake, because they can taste bitter to horses. Most sources recommend always leaving plain salt freely available to horses, even if you do feed a mixed mineral. In my experience, a horse may eat a lot of salt for awhile, but the salt consumption will eventually slack off. DeeAnna
