Fjord-shaped mailbox
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm sure some of you know about these already, but I was just searching the web for horse shaped mailboxes to replace what I have now and I actually found some that come in Fjord shape! I found them here (scroll way down the page): http://www.themailboxranch.com/horse-mailboxes.shtml Kind of pricey, but definitely distinctive, esp. if your farm is hard to find! I also found lots of horse-themed magnetic mailbox wraps that are a lot cheaper, but so far none of them feature Fjords. --Amy ~ Marehaven Farm ~*~ Longmont, CO http://www.marehaven.org The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
how much time on pasture equals one flake of grass hay?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Two of my Fjord mares (Belle and Britta) have been out on the neighbor's pasture full time since last fall, and starting in early April I stopped giving them hay because they were getting plenty of grass, but now they're all of a sudden HUGE blimps! So I need to start bringing them in part of the time, letting them out only to get their meals instead of a 24 hour all-you-can-eat buffet. Does anyone know how long a horse would need to be out on pasture to get the equivalent of a flake of grass hay? When they were getting hay, they each got one flake in the morning and one at night, so I'm thinking I should leave them out there just long enough to get an equivalent amount of food and then keep them in dry lot the rest of the time, with a little low calorie hay for something to munch on. I tried looking this up on Google but it's hard to find the right keywords. And I'm sure people's opinions vary. Fjords sure are *seriously* easy keepers! --Amy ~ Marehaven Farm ~*~ Longmont, CO http://www.marehaven.org The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
RE: New Horse Adjustment
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 11:57 AM -0400 5/19/05, Cynthia Madden wrote: I have been places where the facilities allowed for a horse to be quarantined for a week or so and if you don't know the kind of facility your horse came from it can be a good idea. (Strange horses bringing in strangles, etc). We keep all new horses in quarantine for one to two weeks, depending on where they're coming from. I've had horses come off the shipping van with various things, usually shipping fever, and have had horses come in from other barns that brought flu or strangles. I usually have at least one pregnant mare so I'm cautious for her sake, but also because it can be quite a pain to treat a large herd of horses for any kind of contagious illness. Been there, done that, and have the bleach-stained clothing to show for it! I just bought two new Fjord mares and am planning to introduce them to the mare pasture over the weekend. They're in quarantine right now, but my first step will be to put them in the space between pastures, so they can get acquainted over the fence. In order to contain the spread of infections we have 30' alleyways between each pasture, and these also make nice short term turn out areas for new horses so that I can see how they interact with others. The two new mares are sisters and get along great with each other, but I think one of them might be on the bossy side with my other mares, so I'll just wait and see how it goes. After they meet over the fence what I'll probably do is remove all the mares from the mare pasture and turn the new girls out, so they can check the lay of the land without being on the defensive. Then I'll add one mare back in at a time, starting with the one that seems most likely to submit to the bossy mare. The mares currently out on the mare pasture are all sort of in need of a leader, so they may all submit to her in no time, but I'm not sure how things will work when my other Fjord mare (now in a separate paddock raising a baby) goes back out into the herd, because she's pretty bossy herself. And she doesn't back down from a fight. So I'll have to go through a similar process when she's ready to go out with her baby, starting with removing everyone from the mare pasture and then putting them back in order of most submissive to least and see how it goes. With as many soundness problems as I'm dealing with in different horses, I would hate to risk another injury as mares try to work out the pecking order, so I hope everything goes smoothly! I strongly prefer the idea of having my horses live together on a large pasture full time, but with each new soundness problem I encounter I start to question this arrangement. If I had it to build this place all over again, I would build a number of smaller paddocks (like maybe 150'x250') instead of just a few large pastures, although I do love looking out the kitchen window to see a herd of mares running up the hill or grazing peacefully together. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: injury to stifle
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 6:14 AM + 5/18/05, Karen McCarthy wrote: I have a very good vet clinic nearby that has a couple of excellent leg vets, and brand new state of the art equipment. Even with all of the bells and whistles, they could not detect the exact problem + location w/in her stifle and they usedÝa digital xray and then ultrasound. They concluded that it was back inside behind the (?) Ýligament I know it's not always that easy, but at least with that kind of equipment you greatly increase your chances of finding what's wrong. Before we x-rayed my one mare's stifle, we actually did a nuclear bone scan on her (up at CSU), which in theory shows up any inflammation in the soft tissues or bone remodelling, and we learned from that test that the mare had a slightly twisted pelvis, possibly due to having torn a ligament during foaling. But the stifle problem didn't show up on that test, at least not enough for anyone to take notice, so either it didn't exist then or it just didn't show up. However, it seems likely that whatever injury was traumatic enough to injure the stifle may also be related to the twist in the pelvis; either both problems are the result of the same injury or possibly the twist in the pelvis is the result of compensating for the stifle injury. I guess we'll never know for sure. I've had several other horses with mystery hind end problems that we never quite diagnosed, so I can relate to your frustration! One mare I bought at a sale because she was so nicely put together and had a great mind, and I figured I could retrain her jog into something approximating a dressage trot. Well, I came to find out that she had most likely broken her pelvis at some time in her youth and would never do more than jog. The vet could find some evidence of the fracture on a nuclear bone scan, but he also suspected some significant soft tissue damage deep inside the pelvis and that didn't show up. There is no good way, as of yet, to see really deep inside the pelvis structures, and yet they seem particularly prone to injury in horses. I had another mare who was hyper mobile in her pelvis, and the vets felt that was most likely due to a ligament injury while delivering a foal. Apparently that's fairly common. They also sent me home w/ a tube of Surpass to apply topically to the area. Have you found that to be effective? The mare I have with a bone spur in her stifle (and also a chronically irritated suspensory ligament) recently twisted her fetlock on the same leg. (Is it any surprise that she's part TB? I think they must be the most injury prone horses on earth!) The vet is going to inject her fetlock today and then wants me to use Surpass on the area. I haven't used it yet and am skeptical of its effectiveness, but maybe it works better than topical analgesics do in humans. They reccomended i do a joint injection only if there was no significant improvement w/in the next 6 months. They said they would aslo like to 'scope the joint prior to an injection. I've had great luck with having the vet I use do joint injections (without scoping them first), but I think that's his area of expertise. The mare with the bone spur in her stifle was REALLY sore in the stifle until he injected it, and the stifle pain has not returned. Now she just has a fetlock injury to contend with. Because she has three issues in the same leg, she's going to be a difficult one to ever heal. And yet she's a Second Level school master with a wonderful mind, so I'll keep trying. I'm hoping my Fjords are less prone to injury than my other horses! --Amy
Re: round pen size
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 9:36 AM -0700 5/4/05, Janine Gerrand wrote: The larger the better is what I live by. 60' diameter is what I use comfortably without losing any control. I built an 80' round pen to use when working my 17h Percheron mares, but it has worked really well for horses of all sizes, right on down to ponies. Given the potential for creating future soundness problems, I wouldn't want to work in anything smaller. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
math challenged filly?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] After riding Belle the other day I gave her some grain and then leaned up against her belly while she ate, hoping to feel the baby kick. I felt some movement so I said, Kick once if you're a filly and twice if you're a colt. Within seconds I felt two distinct thumps. That wasn't the answer I wanted so I waited a bit and then asked again. And again I felt two thumps. So now I'm hoping for a filly that's bad at math ;-) --Amy
more on green broke
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I rode Belle earlier today and was paying attention as I rode to what it is about her that makes me call her green. She is easy to catch and lead, easy to groom, saddle and bridle. Stands still for mounting (most of the time). Walks off calmly on a loose rein. She doesn't throw fits or test me or try to get out of work or anything like that. But I don't think an inexperienced rider would enjoy riding her for several reasons. She can get up a good head of steam at the trot and it takes a strong half halt to get her to slow down and take longer strides. To a less experienced rider it might feel like she's taking off with the rider, but she just has a lot of go. Usually after ten or fifteen minutes of working on walk/trot work, including transitions, she is more relaxed and slows to a more reasonable pace, but she still needs a rider who can get her there, so to speak. Perhaps in another year she will be willing to start off at that pace. She also tends to fall over her left shoulder and to hang on the inside rein and needs lots of reminders not to do that. When I first got her she didn't know much about straightness or bend, and she's got the basic concept now but needs a lot of practice and reinforcement. A rider who isn't using all the aids and who isn't accustomed to making dozens of small corrections along the way would probably find her frustrating to steer. She also prefers to walk with her head very low and tends to speed up when asked to walk on contact, but we're working on that. I want her to march forward into a medium walk on contact, not go into zoom pony mode! Our facility is private but we have a steady stream of people of all abilities coming out to ride, as lesson students, working students, friends or private boarders, and most of them fall under the category of advanced beginner. In my opinion, a horse is no longer green when one of our typical riders can ride the horse with minimal supervision and get the desired response, not just over the course of one ride but several rides. Most horses are good for a new rider the first time, but to me the test of whether the horse really understands its job is it if will continue to do it (more or less) even with a less skilled rider. I don't expect the same quality of performance, but I expect the same level of obedience. Most everyone here (horse and human) is working on schooling Intro/Training Level dressage, so we're not talking about doing anything fancy. At this point I would not say that Belle is ready to be ridden by an advanced beginner, mainly because her response to the steering aids has not yet been firmly installed. It will probably take about a year for her to get to that point, and even then the person will have to be comfortable with the possibility of a fair amount of energy. And yet I find her a lot of fun to ride, because she doesn't argue with me, doesn't buck, bolt, pitch fits, toss her head, go behind the bit or otherwise make life difficult, and she's fairly sensitive and responsive to light aids. If all goes well with her upcoming foal, then I would guess that she will be ready to go to schooling shows and do Training Level next spring. (And so, by the standards of dressage, she would still be considered green in the sense of just starting to learn the basics of the training scale, although I'm guessing that Training Level is probably the highest we will go. I'm just not that ambitious ;-) I enjoy riding a horse that is green the way Belle is, because I can have so much of an influence over the way their training develops and I don't have to deal with baggage. But I wouldn't do so well on a horse that is green in the sense that it is hypersensitive, over-reactive, easily nervous or spooky, inclined to buck, bolt or pitch fits or behave in other undesirable ways. I'll leave those issues to the trainers ;-) --Amy
Re: good deal ?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 10:06 PM -0500 3/15/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Thanks so much for the history on the mare!! That saves me a lot of trouble, although I did get a few red flags when I inquired about her. I was told she was GREENBROKE (they put it in all caps) and that she would probably need six months to a year of professional training to be finished (they didn't say in what discipline). I found that kind of odd so I asked a few more questions and was told to call the trainer. Sounds like this is a case where green broke is a euphemism for already messed up and needs to be fixed. No thanks. I agree with you about you get what you pay for in terms of most things, but I've had the opposite kind of luck when it comes to the prices I've paid for horses. I've had terrible luck with the horses I paid a lot of money for, in terms of their not being sound, not being correctly trained or not having the personality that was represented to me. Two years ago I paid $12,5000 for a dressage schoolmaster that, as I found out a few months after I got her home, has a chronic injury that has kept her out of work now for over a year. The extensive veterinary prepurchase missed it and the owner swore up and down that the mare was sound, but the only way this mare passed the vet check is if she had pain killers on board. My regular vet can see evidence of the problem on the x-rays that were taken at the prepurchase, but the prepurchase vet missed it (or who knows, maybe the seller paid him to miss it). I am not one who is quick to trust and I'm fairly knowledgeable about horses, so I just hate it that I was such a sucker. I really felt I had a reason to trust the seller, and she was totally honest about the mare's personality and level of training (she is my dream horse in every possible way in terms of temperament and training), but the soundness problem kind of makes all that irrelevant! I've tried rehabbing her twice and twice she has come up unsound again, so I'm not sure what the long term prognosis is. I've never paid anywhere close to that for any other horse, but I have paid as much as $6500 for a horse that was marketed as one thing and turned out to be another. I flew out to see this mare in person but really there's only so much you can learn in one ride, and I also put way too much faith in the reputation of the seller. And I'll admit some responsibility as well: I wasn't crazy about the way the mare steered while test riding her, but I made the mistake of thinking I could fix it later. I don't know if that's such a big mistake. On some horses I certainly could fix the steering problem, but not on this one! Not only was she not interested in learning dressage, she was downright hostile to the idea and started pitching fits, even with my trainer aboard. The trainer likes all horses, but not this mare! No one here could get along with her. I finally realized that in her heart the mare really wanted to do cross country and not dressage, so I sold her to an eventer at a considerable loss. And I have other similar stories. But some of the horses that have been my biggest success stories were ones I bought for cheap (under $2200). That includes my Haflinger mare and my Fjord mare. Both were green broke when I got them (in the sense of uneducated, not screwed up) and both are sensible, cooperative, easy to work with and a lot of fun to ride. They each have soundness issues, but the Fjord mare's issue is so subtle that I don't think a prepurchase would've necessarily picked it up (she has a bone spur in her left knee, but we wouldn't have known it was there if I hadn't insisted to the vet that he x-ray it). A prepurchase would've picked up the Haflinger mare's problem, but then I wouldn't have bought her and I'm very glad to have her in my life. She had a bone chip in her left hock but she's since had it removed via surgery. I bought both mares at sales, so prepurchase exams were not a possibility, but I don't regret buying them one bit. In fact I feel lucky to have both of them. In my experience, there is very little correlation between a horse's price and its quality or suitability to what I want to do. I've seen $5000 horses for sale that had choppy gaits and no clue about the basic aids, and I've seen $1200 trail horses that turned out to be pretty nice low level dressage horses. People don't always know what they have in their back yards, and some overestimate what it's worth while others underestimate it. And price tells me nothing about whether the horse and I will be a good personality match. I took a huge risk when I bought Belle. I hadn't even messed with her in her stall, much less test ridden her, but I had overheard the owners talking about her and I watched her be ridden. I had a pretty good feeling that I could
Fjord mare for sale in Utah?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I saw this ad for a Fjord mare in Utah and was wondering if anyone knows anything about her: http://www.draftsforsale.com/Frames/Display/index.php?id=42063ebb29fda I probably shouldn't even be looking for another horse unless I sell one of the four I have for sale (non Fjords), but I'm so worried that something will happen to Belle (my Fjord mare) when she foals that I keep thinking I better see what else is out there, just in case. (I tend to be such a doomsday worrier!) If all goes well, in late April she will deliver a healthy foal (hopefully filly) and both mom and baby will be fine, but until then I will worry, worry, worry... And regardless of how things go, I still wouldn't mind having another Fjord like Belle to ride. She's so much fun! --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: greenbroke
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Naturally a horse that has been imprinted at birth, gently handled on up and carefully introduced to bridle and saddle, and rider, is worth far more ...than say a broker who takes an untamed and untrained strange adult horse and quickly forces it into submission. One method is indelibly and incrementally over time ingrained, and the other a quick and temporary conversion, but they are both termed greenbroke. This is a good point, one that illustrates the range of what people might mean by green broke. You just can't tell for sure what a person means without asking a lot of questions, but even that's not always reliable, since people can use the same words to mean different things. My most favorite kind of green broke is the type that is bold, friendly, cooperative, sensible and trusting and just lacks some education in the basics. I can teach a horse that is basically cooperative how to respond to the aids and progress along the training scale. My least favorite kind of green broke is the kind that really means already screwed up, usually through bad handling. Or that really means a difficult temperament (like spooky, nervous, timid, resistant and so on). I suppose some difficult temperaments are made but I tend to think that a lot about a horse's personality is innate and isn't going to change a great deal with training. If training could make that big of a difference it wouldn't be so hard to find truly quiet, sensible, forgiving beginner's horses! --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: Greenbroke----A checklist
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 8:59 AM -0800 3/12/05, Ursula Brian Jensen wrote: The term greenbroke has many definitions and meanings to different owners and trainers. A checklist like this would be very valuable to the new buyer or neophyte to the equine breed. I think a checklist would be handy for a newcomer to have, although there are quite a few things on the list that a beginner might not be able to evaluate or even understand. For example, I would put on the list for green broke that the horse has the basic concept of yielding to pressure, but a beginner may not know what that is or what it looks like in various forms, and for that matter someone selling a green broke horse may not know either. To some green broke simply means I sat on him and didn't get bucked off while to others it means that the horse is schooling Intro/Training level dressage but isn't yet ready for an inexperienced rider. The longer I'm involved with horses the longer my definition of green broke becomes, because there are so many things the horse needs to learn. I suppose I would define the moment when a horse moves past being green broke as being that point at which the horse can be ridden by a somewhat inexperienced rider (with supervision) and it will still respond more or less according to its training, rather than reverting back to acting clueless. To some degree that depends on temperament as well, as there are a fair number of horses that can never be ridden by inexperienced riders without trying to take over or resist or whatever, no matter how much training they have. I have a Percheron mare that I trained myself and I would say that she is no longer green because she goes pretty much reliably in an Intro/Training level frame even for a less experienced rider and she is easy to steer (doesn't really fall in or out, or when she does is easy to fix). She knows enough about her job that she will do it even if the rider isn't quite correct in how he or she asks for it. I consider my Fjord mare and Haflinger mare both green because they are still not totally sure of their jobs when other people ride them, although they are very easy for me to ride. With an inexperienced rider, the Fjord mare will go faster and faster (she's my too much coffee pony) and the Haflinger will wobble on a crooked line (she's my drunken pony). When they get to the point that a less experienced rider can ride, say, an Intro Level test on them without too much trouble, then I might consider them no longer green. But in terms of their quiet dispositions, I might say they were practically born broke. That's my favorite type -- quiet and cooperative, even if they need a fair amount of education. I can take care of the education, if the personality is there. My definition of green broke does not make a distinction between quiet and nervous, b/c many horses are quiet from the day they're born while many others will remain nervous or spooky no matter how much training they have. I would say that horses generally get easier to ride with more experience under saddle and in new situations, but their innate temperament doesn't change much. I came across an ad recently for a Fjord mare that was described as green broke and needs about six months to a year to finish, which puzzled me. The seller also mentioned that she would be well worth the investment of trainer's fees. I'm not sure what that all means. I'm not even sure what finished means, given that there was no discipline indicated. In dressage a horse is never really finished, just ready for a certain level, and even then it can vary from ready for that level with a good rider to ready for that level with any rider. If a horse has only been ridden on a few trail rides and was generally uncomplicated and cooperative, then I can do the rest of the training myself, but if the seller suggests that the horse needs professional training, that sends up red flags. I think the key to understanding what a green broke means is to ask the seller LOTS of questions about the horse's training and behavior, to see how closely his or her definition matches your own. But sometimes sellers don't know how to describe their horses in terms that will make sense to you, so even if you actually try to agree on a definition of green broke it may not, in practice, mean the same thing to both of you. One person's idea of a good stop can be quite a bit different from another's. And one person's idea of easy to steer can be quite a bit different from another's. Nothing beats actually riding the horse yourself to assess the training, and then more than once, ideally in several different situations. --Amy
Re: Prejudice against Fjords??
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 6:12 PM -0500 3/11/05, Genie Dethloff wrote: Anyone have feedback for me on when to start the canter training. I don't have any general advice, just a personal experience. I don't honestly know if my Fjord mare had ever cantered under saddle before I asked her to, but I suspect she had, just probably out on the trails and not in an arena setting. Her canter is comfortable but fast. At times it can be really fast, despite my best efforts to rebalance her, so that tells me that we probably need to keep working getting off the forehand at the trot (with only occasional short bits of canter work on a circle). A friend told me she could swear Belle was wearing a big ole grin as she cantered around, but that's not my impression of what's going on. I think she thinks she's supposed to fast, so I'm having to patiently explain the new rules around here. I can see the point about going ahead and cantering under saddle, just to show the horse what it feels like, but only if the situation is such that it will be good experience for the horse. And then you could go back to focusing on the trot. It seems like it takes a long time before they can build up the condition and balance to really work on the canter. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
trade for Fjord?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] This is probably a long shot, I know, but I thought I'd toss it out there. I have three horses for sale that I would be willing to trade for one good natured, non-spooky, SOUND Fjord mare, three years or or older, ideally with decent movement and not too refined. The horses are a 2 year old dun tobiano Clyde/Paint gelding (very easy to work with); a 4 year old 13.2h grade Haflinger mare (broke to ride and drive and very cute); and her soon to be weaned black Percheron cross filly (halter broke and ponied on trails). You can see these horses on my farm web site, URL below. They are for sale primarily b/c I want another horse to ride and I can't ride these three, due to their size or age. (And my Fjord mare is about to need some time off, given that she is due to foal in April.) Email me if you'd like to discuss this idea. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: Fjord vs Haflinger
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have two Haflingers and a Fjord, and I also used to work for a Haflinger breeder, many many years ago, starting young horses under saddle (an idea that baffles me today -- I'm quite sure I had no idea what I was doing, but I had fun!) I love both breeds, but there are some personalities within each breed that I like better than others. The Haflinger mare I ride the most is very safe and I feel like I could ride her anywhere, even though she's only three (coming four) and still fairly green. She's just so sensible. If something alarms her she may perk up her ears, but then she goes up to investigate it. Her response to new situations is to slow down and check everything out, which I much prefer to a variety of other possible responses. I've taken her on her first trail rides and to her first dressage shows and she was a star, often scoring higher than other horses because she was so obedient and just did her job (she's a pretty cute mover too). When I got her she was barely saddle broke and had no concept of the aids, but she caught on to the basics very quickly. She went from being stuck with the parking brake on, when I first got on, to moving freely forward and moving all body parts when asked about a month later. She's a very quick learner. She does, however, have some of that pony mischief in her, but I find it charming, mainly b/c she is so easy to work with. If she was always trying to get out of work or be a nuisance under saddle, it would get old. She definitely views the world with a twinkle in her eye and the equine equivalent of a smile. She's happy go lucky. She's also one of the heavier types of Haflinger, not the more modern sport pony type, which personally I don't see the point of. I'm 5'9 so I can't ride a sport pony. My Fjord mare is also sensible and feels safe to ride, but she worries about more things, and her response when she's worried is to go fast. She feels easy to control to me (with a strong half halt), but she's definitely not for a beginner rider, whereas a beginner could easily ride the Haflinger. The Fjord mare doesn't know how to spook, but she's a little herd bound and I think that worries her a bit (although she listens to me and behaves in the arena or out in the pasture even when we're alone). For a while after I bought her I thought she was kind of stubborn, b/c I tried to teach her about the aids (she also had no formal training when I got her) and it seemed to me that she wouldn't listen to me and learn the lessons. I finally figured out that she's the type who thinks that SHE knows what we're supposed to be doing and that the rider is the one who is clueless, so in her mind she probably thought she was teaching ME how she was supposed to be ridden. With time and patience I finally convinced her that doing things my way really was better and now she mostly goes along with the program, although at times she reverts to motorcycle steering, maybe just for old times' sake. She does not have the same pony mischief in her that my Haflinger has (or that the Connemara ponies I used to own had), nor does she seem as amused by life, but she is charming in her own way. She's very pretty, more feminine and some might say refined than a lot of Fjords (although still plenty substantial for me to feel comfortable on), and she loves attention. She is always the first at the gate when I go out to the mare pasture, although she doesn't mind too much when I get another horse (whereas my Haflinger mare gets visibly jealous and will try to take the lead rope out of my hand if I don't catch her in time!) What I like best about both mares is how sensible they are in new situations. I recently rode my Fjord mare through our neighborhood for the first time, while several other people lead nervous, green horses behind us, and the Fjord mare was a star. Nothing fazed her, not the sheep, donkeys, dogs, chickens, cars, bikes, or other crazy neighborhood sights, and she just marched forward like a trooper. At one point one of the horses being led got pretty snorty and prancy at the sight of a white donkey and my Fjord mare casually looked around as if to say, what is it? I don't see anything alarming. I am kind of sort of in the market for a new horse, and keep thinking about whether I'd want another Haflinger or another Fjord. It is a lot easier to find Haflingers and they tend to be quite a bit less expensive, but they also tend to be smaller than is ideal for someone my size (either too short or too slender). In fact I have another Haflinger mare for sale because she is only 13.2h and medium in build, so she just feels too small for me. It seems like it might be easier to find a Fjord that is a good size (over 14h and at least medium if not heavier in build), but the prices sometimes seem unrealistic to me, unless the horse already
Re: western bits
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 8:57 PM -0500 10/29/04, Linda Lottie wrote: The Myler Bits are made in 5 1/2 width.that fits my two large mouthed fjords. I've also found that the Myler comfort snaffle runs large, because of the curved mouthpiece, so a 5 1/2 in that style of bit would probably fit a horse that seems to have a 6 mouth. I use a 5 Myler comfort snaffle on a Clydesdale and a Shire/Paint whose mouths both measure 5 1/2 and on a Perch/TB that measures 6. I also use it on my Fjord mare, but she is probably a true 5. Here's a source for larger bits: http://www.stevenshobbyfarm.com And this site also has a few draft sized bits: http://www.buytack.com What I've found when searching for larger bits is that a lot of them are actually driving bits, which can be used for riding but may not be legal in competition and may be pretty funky looking! I had a Belgian mare that I wanted to use a French link snaffle on, but the only one I could find in her size was a butterfly french link, which has a few loops under the snaffle ring and a curb chain, so that you can use it to apply some leverage. It was originally a driving bit but has become popular with jumpers, b/c of the option for more leverage. Or you can just attach the reins to the snaffle ring and use it like a snaffle. The sites above have a few driving bits and also the usual assortment of regular bits (french link snaffle, kimberwicke, pelham, tom thumb), just in larger sizes. The prices are pretty reasonable, but the quality of the bits is average at best. It seems as though the higher end bit makers have not yet tapped into the larger bit market. I've had decent luck finding bits for most of my drafts and draft crosses, but the hardest by far has been my Percheron mare, whose mouth is a true 7!! She's not particularly large or heavy (for a Percheron), but she has very large, rubbery (and expressive) lips. I'm using a 6 1/2 tom thumb on her now, b/c she does best with a little curb pressure, but it's less than ideal for several reasons. I may eventually try to find someone to custom make the kind of bit I think she'd do best in, except that I have to figure out what that is first! Maybe a Myler pelham or kimberwicke. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: Fjords for sale in Scottsbluff, NE
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 11:11 AM -0700 10/23/04, Crystal Garland wrote: What would his price be for them? Are they gray, or brown dun.. ect? I have no idea. You'll have to contact the seller directly with questions -- I was just passing the info along. The seller's email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --Amy
Re: my new Fjord
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 5:51 PM -0800 10/4/04, Jean Ernest wrote: I found Short Creek's Wedding Belle, also born iin 1998. That's her. I won't get her registration papers for another few weeks, most likely, so I can't say anything about her pedigree. She's awfully cute. And smart and good natured, as I would expect her to be! We got her out today and did some ground work and got on, and she was very well behaved. She has great energy -- just wants to get out there and GO places! She'll be fun to bring along in dressage. I just added two new photos of me riding her to her page on my farm web site. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
my new Fjord
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I went to the recent Troyer sale (aka Colorado Draft Horse Sale) looking for another Haflinger, and came home with a Fjord instead! I was expecting prices on the Fjords to be out of my range, but all the prices were low this year, so I couldn't resist buying a very nice looking six year old mare, about 14.2h and medium in build (but plenty wide enough for me to ride), broke to ride, and registered with the Canadian Fjord registry. You can see her on my farm web site under Belle. I'm so excited! She has the potential to do everything I want to do (dressage, a little jumping, trail riding, maybe a pair pace down the road), and I can't wait to get to know her better. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: Rattlesnake conditioning
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 5:05 AM -0700 9/22/04, Ruth Bushnell wrote: I've been wondering when a cat advocate would speak up on their behalf, and defend their safety in a role as a Rattlesnake scout, as I understand even cats can fall victim to RS bites. They can, but they rarely do. I think maybe cats are just faster than snakes. Most of the snakes we've found near the barn and house area were actually aroused by the cats. We may never have even known the snakes were there if the cats didn't taunt them into coiling up and rattling. And then the cats will pounce on them and leap around them -- it amazes me that they've never been bitten. I've never even heard of a cat being bitten (although I'm sure it happens). What we hear of around here are horses, dogs and llamas being bitten, but rarely humans or cats. I'm not sure why more humans don't get bitten -- it surely isn't our superior reflexes! I came across this site which claims that horses, llamas, dogs and cats can be operant conditioned to fear RS's, using remote stimuli association lessons. Thanks for sending that. I've often thought that there must be a way to teach the dogs and horses to back away slowly at the sound of a rattlesnake, but hadn't yet come up with any good ideas. I don't know about exposing them to muzzled rattlesnakes, though. I sure wouldn't want to be the one to have to put the muzzles on! One thing I disagree with on their site is that horses and dogs don't learn anything from being bitten the first time. The dog that was bitten earlier this summer now bristles and stands stock still if she hears anything remotely resembling a rattle (like the sound of an automatic sprinkler system going off). And then she goes the other way. The horses that were bitten don't like the sound of anything resembling a rattle either. I think they made the connection. Nevertheless, I do think it would be useful to have a safe way to teach the horses, esp. the foals, to stay away from anything that rattles (without completely freaking out -- some of the weeds in this area can sound like rattles as you pass them by). I keep waiting for someone to invent a remote control device that simulates a snake's sound and behavior and that contains a mild shock, like an electric fence, so the horse learns to stay away. That won't solve the problem of horses that get bit elsewhere on the body, like the legs or flanks (while rolling), but it would hopefully discourage the nosy ones from getting too close to things that coil and rattle. --Amy
Re: Nosy Fjords
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 4:32 PM -0500 9/20/04, Skeels, Mark A \(GE Healthcare\) wrote: Time for a little snake hunt with the 12 gauge. I'll be out there with the rest of the horses this Friday and will hope to find the snake. Any ideas on how to locate a snake, besides just walking around and waiting for him to spring his head up? Have to put some thick chaps on, just in case. Unfortunately, I know a thing or two about rattlesnakes. When I first came out to look at this forty acres, the man living next door came out carrying a shotgun, which he offered to me in case I ran into any rattlers as I walked across the land. I'd never handled a gun before, so I said no thanks, but I did watch my step. What I didn't do, however, was really think about what it might mean to live in rattler territory. I bought the land anyway (after all, maybe the old guy was just trying to scare me off, since the land was like his own private open space?) The first year, my partner relocated the rattlesnakes. When we'd come across one, she'd pick it up with a pitchfork and toss it out into an open area, away from the barn and house. We found most of them because something near the house had caught their attention, like the flapping tarp over her motorcycle. So they'd be coiled up, hissing at the offending object, and she'd sneak up behind with the pitch fork. But then the second year, her four month old QH filly got bitten on the nose, and after that, we declared war. The filly survived (I found her probably a few hours after the bite and took her and her mother up to CSU for treatment), but from then on, any rattlers we encountered on the farm did not. She developed a technique of tossing a very heavy steel rod onto the snake, so that it fell just behind the snake's head, and then she'd use a pick axe to chop off the head. We've thought about using scatter shot (even though I still haven't ever handled a gun), but there are concerns about ricochet and accidentally hitting a cat. So I think her method works better. The third year a yearling filly of mine was bitten, but she was treated here on the farm and recovered just fine. This is our fifth year here and for the first time this summer a dog was bitten, but she recovered just fine too. This was the first summer that I had to kill a few on my own, however, as my partner has been out of town a lot. I'm not as handy with the steel rod, so I've been using poles to kind of smash the snake, giving me time to go fetch the pick axe. I do wish there was a quicker way to dispatch of them. I don't like killing anything, but anything that can kill me (or my horses) has to go -- I'd just prefer to get it done more quickly. Probably the best way to rustle up the snakes in your area is to take some cats with you. That's how we've found most of the ones around here. The cats are fascinated with them and will paw at them and pounce on them and generally make a big show of trying to play with the snakes, but the snakes never seem to harm the cats. I usually see it before I hear it -- three or four cats will be leaping around in the same spot, and then as I draw closer I can hear it, the sound of a rattler getting more and more pissed off. But the cats usually keep them occupied while I go looking for a pole to knock the snake out with. I suppose you might get the same effect by scattering sand or gravel as you walk, since anything that touches the snake will make it start to coil up and rattle, but that could take a long time, depending on the size of the area. You could look for them around the hay stack, or anywhere that there might be mice (since that's what the snakes are after). September is migration time for them, as they move back to their hibernation dens for the winter, so they seem more active (and more defensive) this time of the year than others. In fact nearly every bite we've had here and most of the bites I've heard about happened in September. Until we get a good hard freeze, this is an anxious time for me, and I check noses and legs very carefully every morning, and throughout the day. I also put one of my favorite (but nosy) mares into a paddock during this month, to hopefully keep her safe. It's strange to me that despite the danger, I still walk boldly across our property most of the time. I guess I take comfort in knowing that rattlesnakes, at least the kind we have out here, would really rather avoid me altogether, and will give me a very clear warning if they're threatened. They're not likely to strike if I hear the rattle, stop, and go the other way. However, if it's been raining on the day you go on your rattler hunt, keep this thought in mind: a wet rattle makes no noise! I've been told that even if I won the lottery, there is no service I could hire that could get rid of the rattlesnakes altogether. We have cats to keep down
Re: tree less saddles
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] This message is from: janet [EMAIL PROTECTED] For those riding fjords in treeless saddles how do they compare to saddles with a tree when it comes to mounting? I would think that without a tree the saddle would slip easier. experiences? I haven't yet had the chance to try a treeless on a Fjord, but I use them on my Haflingers and my drafts and draft crosses, and so far I haven't had any problems with slipping during mounting. I almost always use a mounting block, however, so I don't often have occasion to put a lot of pressure in one stirrup. I find that mounting from the ground can make almost any saddle slip, esp. on a round bodied horse, and it also puts too much torque on the horse's back, so I use a mounting block even with the 13.3h Haflinger (I just slide right onto her without even putting my feet in the stirrups first!) My Haflingers are completely round -- very little withers and flat backs with wide, well sprung ribs. I haven't had a problem with the Torsion treeless saddle slipping while riding in the arena, but if I use that saddle on a trail ride I will probably put a breast collar on it, just to help stabilize it on more uneven terrain. My Perch/TB mare has the kind of back I suspect many medium type Fjords have (and I mean medium in terms of not too drafty and not too light, not in terms of saddle size -- she takes a wide tree). The treeless saddles work very well on her because she has just enough withers to keep them very stable, even when mounting from the ground (which I sometimes have to do while on a trail). She's a substantial 16.2h and I'm 5'9 and 162lbs, so that's a fair amount of weight to be putting in one of the stirrups as I ungracefully climb aboard, and yet the saddle hasn't budged. I also had to mount my very substantial 16.3h Percheron mare from the ground one day and again, the treeless saddle didn't budge. I was surprised, b/c I'm not exactly as springy as I used to be, so I had to really climb up there. Keep in mind that most treeless saddles actually do have something in them that is rigid and acts as a stabilizer. In the Torsion, there's a wood pommel piece (sort of like the top part of a vaulting surcingle) and the cantle also has a firm piece made of soft synthetic material. In the Torsion both of these pieces can be removed but they recommend that you then stuff them with cotton or wool, for stability. The Bob Marshall has wood pieces in both pommel and cantle that can't be removed. And the Ansur has some kind of high tech material that keeps it stable (and can't be removed). They're not like bareback pads, in other words, that have nothing to keep them stable. In my opinion, a treeless saddle has more in common with a regular saddle than it does with a bareback pad. After seeing how much better all my horses go in a treeless vs. a saddle with a tree, I'm sold on the concept, although I do have two horses that go just as well in saddles with trees. Either their backs just aren't as sensitive or the shape of the tree just fits them better than the others. Hope that helps, --Amy
Re: Engar/Fjord body width
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 11:54 PM -0400 8/30/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Isn't there a breeder or two in your area that you could go visit? This might answer all of your questions at once! I've been to see Beth Beymer's Fjords and got to take a lesson on BDF Magnum, who is a perfect size for me and a lot of fun to ride. My Wintec Isabell with a wide tree fit him nicely. But he's not for sale! Seeing Beth's Fjords was educational in many ways and I appreciate the information she shared with me, but that doesn't help me determine if a Fjord for sale elsewhere will be wide enough for me. I think maybe I didn't ask my question very clearly. I was just wondering if it's common for a Fjord that is otherwise wide through the body to be ridden in a medium tree saddle (as opposed to medium-wide, wide or extra wide), because that would help me gauge the size of horses for sale. I was surprised to hear that any Fjord could be ridden in a medium tree saddle and wondered if there was something about their back shape that I was missing, but maybe it's only the more modern types that are that narrow. That's the impression I'm getting from some private conversations on this topic, which makes me all the more sure that I need to look specifically for the more drafty type. --Amy
Re: Engar
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 12:15 PM -0700 8/30/04, jgayle wrote: He was raised on free choice alfalfa. He has in the last four months begun to show some watery discharge along with his soft but still formed dung (hardly used word anymore!) It is burning his skin. Could he maybe have an ulcer? Stomach acid can cause burning on the way out with humans, so maybe also with horses. I've heard you can give horses human antacids, like Tums or Tagemet (sp?) but I'm not sure of the dosage. It might be worth a try to see if it makes a difference, before you go to the trouble of scoping to look for ulcers. I remember reading recently that studies now show that far more horses have ulcers than we previously realized. It's not just a racehorse thing. --Amy
Re: Engar
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I got quite a few private responses today about Engar asking to hear about him! So, here we go... Thanks so much for posting Engar's story! And what a story it is. I can't believe what poor shape he was in when you found him. Poor guy. He is so lucky to have you (and you him, from the sound of it!) I just don't understand what gets into people to make them neglect and mistreat their animals the way they do, even more so when the animal in question is, at heart, peaceful and just looking to get along. I can see why his foals have been so popular. And I hope his type continues to be preserved, both in terms of his shape/looks as well as his disposition. He sounds like the type I would really like and the type that originally drew me to Fjords. --Amy
Fjord body size
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a question about typical Fjord body size. As I've been emailing with people about Fjords for sale, I've come across a few that say that their horses take medium tree saddles, and I've been assuming that these horses will be too narrow for me. I have never ridden a horse that takes a medium tree saddle that I felt comfortable on. In fact I usually know right away that if my wide or extra wide tree Wintec saddles don't fit the horse, it will be too narrow for me, even if it otherwise seems fairly stout or round. However, I'm now starting to wonder if there could be something about the way Fjords are put together that would make them fit a medium tree saddle, and yet still be quite wide through the body, as nearly all of them appear to be (both in person and in photos). I prefer a wide, flat back both because I feel more balanced and comfortable and also because more narrow horses tend to aggravate an old hip injury. Plus I am also way too tall to ride a 14h horse that isn't very wide. I like riding the type of horse that people describe as 14h in every direction or as wide as he is tall or built like a brick outhouse. But most horses that fit that description need wide or extra wide tree English saddles, not medium tree (and not even medium wide). Could it be that some Fjords out there are being ridden in saddles that are not really wide enough for them, or is there something about the way their withers or shoulders are shaped that would allow an otherwise wide, flat backed horse to fit into a medium tree saddle? There are a few Fjords I didn't take a closer look at simply b/c the owners mentioned that they are ridden in medium or regular tree saddles, but now I'm wondering if maybe that isn't a fair assessment of their actual size. The only way I can really know how comfortable a horse would be is to ride it, of course, but if I'm going to have to fly out somewhere and rent a car and go to the trouble and expense, it would be helpful to at least have some idea of how wide the horse is in advance! At least with a more drafty type I can assume that there's a fair amount of width there, but those types are harder to find. Thanks, --Amy
Re: Engar
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 12:17 AM -0400 8/27/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have also learned that many people do not care for the older foundation stallions, especially those of the Gjesterson and King Herald lines. Why this is truly astounds me, for their temperaments and work ethics are to die for. He sounds like the kind of Fjord I would really like. Do you have any photos of him you can share? I love hearing about people's stallions, and why they chose them and what they're up to. I don't think it's self-serving at all (esp. since you're not standing him at stud, although even if you were I think it would be interesting to hear more about him). You've got my vote for more info, please! Thanks, --Amy
Re: Cynthia's post/crossbreeding
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 11:09 AM -0400 8/17/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: But, why have to do either? There are enough varied breeds out there already. If a person does not like the Fjord (or any other breed) for what it is, why go for cross breeding (which is iffy in any case)?... Why not just get a horse of a breed that you do like? It's not about liking or disliking the purebred version of any horse. It's about liking what a cross has to offer, which is usually different from anything you can find in a purebred. The best horse I've ever owned is a Percheron/TB cross, but I would never find a horse like her in a pure TB or a pure Percheron. And there are no pure breeds out there that are similar to a Perch/TB cross. It's the cross that makes it special. And there are several other crosses I really like as well (and own), such as Perch/QH and Shire/Paint. There are no pure breeds that are similar to these types of horses. But not to worry -- I'm not going to cross breed with a Fjord, since I understand the rules. I would enjoy having a purebred Fjord, just as I enjoy having a purebred Percheron. But I also love my Percheron crosses! It's just a preference thing, I think. --Amy
Re: Cynthia's post/crossbreeding
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 4:33 PM -0700 8/16/04, Ruth Bushnell wrote: that point is that cross breeding involves degrees of risk, the element of luck, experimentation! Any cross breeding experiment gone-wrong is most likely destined for rescue or elimination. Very true, but that is also true of purebred breeding. Even purebred breeding relies on an element of luck, as two nearly perfect parents can produce an odd offspring. But if it's a purebred, then it can be registered and sold as such, even if it doesn't meet the breed standard, and the buyer may be none the wiser. If the horse is a mare, the buyer might even breed her,and that's not going to do the breed any good. At least with a cross bred foal you don't get people trying to pass off a substandard horse as a purebred. It will be judged on its own merits and if the quality isn't there, then the market for the horse may be limited, although there's always a market for horses that are very quiet, sensible and easy to work with, even if they do have big clunky heads and little feet! I suppose it comes down to what the person is willing to do if the baby turns out not to have the desirable traits she was hoping for. Some may dump the foals at sales but I would guess that most either try to find the horse a suitable home, even if it means giving it away, or make the commitment to keep it, since breeding anything, purebred or not, does come with a responsibility to the new life. Seems to me most of the horses accounting for the surplus in this country right now are not the kind of crossbreds we've been discussing but poorly bred QHs, Paints and Arabs! It also comes down to what one is hoping to produce with a cross. If the aim is to produce a number of horses that will be very similar in type, then maybe cross breeding isn't the way to go since the results may be more variable and less consistent than they would be with purebred breeding. But if you're aiming to produce a riding horse of your own to keep, out of a mare you know well and like, then the risk may be worth it. For me, raising a cross bred baby out of my mare is much less of a risk than buying a purebred from someone I've never met and don't know anything about. I see cross breeding as a way to extend the value of a breed outside the circle of purebreds, b/c crosses will increase visibility. However, I can also understand the desire not to see the distinctive traits of a purebred diluted in cross breeding, as seems to be happening with the Friesian crosses. Friesians are another breed that, like Fjords, are sufficiently different enough from other breeds that crosses do seem to dilute what makes them special, whereas that is less so with other types of crosses. Something like an Andalusian/Percheron cross produces something that is special in its own right and that (ideally) blends the best of both breeds, while perhaps that is less true with the Fjord or Friesian crosses. However, that all comes down to personal preference. What one person might see as diluting the special traits of a breed, someone else might see as spreading the wealth of the breed, so to speak! Opinions are bound to vary. --Amy
buckskin registry (was Re: outcrosses)
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 3:19 PM -0400 8/14/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What always strikes me funny is that a true Buckskin (according to all the books on horse color I have read) may NOT have the Dun factor. Yet, that is the primary point to register with the Buckskin Assn. Go Figure. There are two buckskin registries, ABRA and IBHA. Both exist to register horses of various shaes of buckskin or dun. So colors eligible include red dun (chestnut+dun gene), dun (bay+dun), grulla (black+dun), and buckskin (bay+cream gene), and IBHA accepts brindle duns as well. There is a separate organization for palominos (chestnut+cream) and no special registry for smokey blacks (black+cream), probably because they usually just look black. The group that is most active in our area, with shows and a large membership, is IBHA. As far as I can tell from their web site they do not exclude horses with draft parentage, as long as they meet the color requirements and are over 14h. Here's their web site: http://www.ibha.net I've seen buckskin and dun horses of other breeds at IBHA shows, notably Morgans and TWH, but they don't place as well as the QHs b/c the judges are mostly stock horse types. However, if you just want papers on a horse that can't get them elsewhere or to go to the shows for fun, it's a nice group. I've never seen a Fjord at an IBHA show but looking at their rules, I don't see why they wouldn't register a Fjord as long as it's over 14h. The registry mainly exists to serve stock type horses, though, and is oriented in that direction, so the additional paperwork and fees may not be justified. ABRA's web site is: http://www.americanbuckskin.org For whatever reason, apparently they'll take mules and ponies, just not drafts! But they might take a half draft as long as it isn't super heavy. And I doubt they'd consider Fjords to be drafts, either. I bet they'd consider them ponies. You have to send photos in to register a horse with either registry, so it's always worth a shot esp. for a Fjord cross. I'm in the process of registering my grulla Perch/QH yearling with IBHA and I don't anticipate any problems with it. He looks like a beefy QH and would make a nice Western Pleasure show horse for a larger rider. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Fjord types
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I just wanted to make a comment as an outsider to the breed (still shopping, haven't found one yet). Although I respect the right of breeders to make whatever decisions they think best suit the interests of the breed, I do hope that over the years some will continue to produce the old style of Fjord, with a lot of width through the body and a stout overall presence, but also with good movement and a reasonable amount of athleticism. I've been involved in several small breeds that have been moving in the sport pony direction over the past few decades, and while I'm not necessarily criticizing that move, the result is that I can no longer ride the horses, as I am a tall adult who prefers to ride very wide horses. That's what drew me to these breeds in the first place, that I could find a short, stout horse with good movement and a good mind, and a reasonable amount of athleticism -- enough to do training level dressage and some low jumps, even if not at the most competitive levels. But as each breed becomes more refined, it becomes more narrow and I am no longer able to to ride that type of horse. If I wanted to ride a medium-width horse I'd get a QH! I prefer them wide to extra wide. In the quest for a horse that would be a comfortable size for me to ride, I turned to drafts and draft crosses -- which I love -- but I find that I'm also most comfortable on a shorter horse of the same body type, and the Fjord is one of the only breeds that still fits that description. Among drafts there are two basic types: hitch-bred (refined, hotter) and farmwork bred (heavier, quieter), and I've found that a cross between the two types produces the type of large draft I like to work with, in terms of athletic ability and disposition. Perhaps there are also two similar types of Fjord, with the combination being the ideal original type? --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: outcrosses
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 6:56 AM -0700 8/14/04, shawna smith wrote: As for cross-breeding, I tell people basically the same thing- a fjord can't be improved upon!! I come from a background with a small breed that is widely used for cross breeding (Connemaras) and I don't think anyone associated with that breed would feel that it's the Connemara that needs improving. Instead, they would argue that it's the other breed (TB, QH or whatever) that needs an infusion of Connemara to make it better! ;-) But this is a breed that out crosses exceptionally well, with the cross often inheriting all the good aspects of a Connemara, but with the added bonus of size for those who want something larger than a pony. My interest in Fjord cross breeding wouldn't be to get an improved Fjord. They do sound perfect exactly the way they are. I wouldn't even personally want to get a taller or more refined Fjord, although that's one logical justification for cross breeding (so that those who want sport horses will do crosses instead of tampering with the breed standard). The old style heavier type in the 14h range sounds perfect for my needs. And I'm interested in buying a purebred, registered Fjord. However, I am also looking for a stallion to breed my Percheron mare to in order to produce a draft pony (or small draft horse), and a Fjord would bring me closer to what I'm looking for than, say, a QH. I respect the wishes of breeders not to allow their stallions to be used for cross-breeding and am not criticizing that philosophy, but I did want to explain what might make someone want to cross breed. I would have no interest in improving on the Fjord or in producing a Fjord look alike that I could sell for big bucks or anything like that. I'd like to produce a riding horse of my own to keep out of a mare I adore -- but I want something considerably smaller than she is. I will most likely end up using a Haflinger or a Connemara, but I would've preferred a Fjord if I'd had the option because they tend to be more stout overall (whereas Haflingers and Connemaras are rapidly moving in the narrow, refined sport pony direction). But perhaps I can find an old style type of either one of those breeds to use, as long as it's a good compliment to my mare. I don't intend to make a new breed out of this -- just to produce something that will be very much like my mare only smaller! --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: llamas and fear of fjords
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 5:27 PM -0400 8/10/04, bolinsj wrote: We've experienced similar reactions to our Fjords with the lighter horses in our driving club. No problem with the heavier, draft horses, but the Arabs, Pasos and Morgans seem to be terrified. Can't understand why; they are not afraid of the 'real' draft horses. My partner has mostly stock horses and two gaited horses, and they all got a little bug eyed the first time they saw me cruising around the arena on my Percheron! Even the horses of hers that typically make faces at other horses in the arena were quick to step out of the Percheron's way, as though they recognized how big their size disadvantage was, although she's the most gentle thing and lets herself be bossed around by yearlings. I recently took her out on a trail ride but it wasn't the other horses that were surprised by her as much as the other hikers. They stood WAY back from the trail to let us pass! ;-) I wonder if Fjords are clannish (preferring mainly their own kind), the way some dog breeds are. I do Chihuahua rescue and Chis definitely recognize each other and often ignore other dogs. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Fjords for sale at Libby?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Will there be many Fjords for sale at the Libby event? Are they for sale by private parties or will there be an actual sale? If there are horses for sale, how does one go about finding out more about them in advance? I'm still in the market for a sound, mature Fjord with comfortable gaits and the ability to do intro/training level dressage work for fun, as well as trail riding. Thanks, --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
sugardine for scratches?
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've been interested to read the latest thread on treating thrush with sugar and betadine. I have a rescue horse with a bad case of thrush and may give this a try. Do you use the betadine scrub or is there some other kind of betadine? I was wondering if anyone has tried it on scratches, the fungal and/or bacterial infection behind the fetlocks that horses with feathers are prone to? I recently bought a Clydesdale mare with a nasty case of scratches that are now at the stage of being raw, oozy sores, but none of the meds I've been using seem to be making that big of an improvement. The thing I worry about with sugardine is that it might attract flies, esp. since I can't easily wrap the affected area, so I'd just have to slather it on and leave it there. Any thoughts? I'm still looking for my trail broke Fjord, but at least starting both the rescue mare and the Clydesdale mare under saddle is keeping me busy! --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: a 'ladies horse'
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 7:01 AM -0500 7/3/04, Janet wrote: I don't think the term is used to describe a horse that cannot carry weight. some horses have actual preferences for men, or women, probably influenced by who raised and or trained them. but more than anything, I've always seen the term 'ladies horse' used to designate a horse that had really good manners, probably a very old term from back when people had to ride horses to get around. I guess you can't really know what the seller means by the term without asking him or her, since I wouldn't have made the good manners connection at all. When I see a horse advertised as a ladies' horse I usually assume that it's rather petite and slender and would not be suitable for a taller or heavier rider. Maybe that's not what the person using the term intends, but it's the mental image that comes to mind when I read the phrase. I suppose it could also mean that the horse reacts well to a very gentle, light touch and poorly to heavy handed approaches, although of course there are gentle men and heavy-handed women (but I guess heavy handed women wouldn't be called ladies ;-) --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Re: The affordable Fjord :)
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 11:50 PM -0700 6/22/04, Paula Chmura wrote: Don't despair - there are quite a few gems out there for reasonable prices if you look for them. I found my Frodo for much, much less than what you are looking to spend and he is wonderful - does dressage, jumps, trail (and I'm told drives but I don't). He's a little older at age fifteen but with Fjord soundness and longevity I hope he'll be my partner for many years to come. My trainer too was able to find a great little dressage fjord mare (only 8) within your budget. So relax, take a deep breath and keep looking for that Fjord of your dreams without any thought of settling. Hi Paula. Thanks for your response. That's encouraging to hear, as advertised prices seem fairly high. Frodo sounds wonderful! I wouldn't mind an older horse, as long as it's truly sound. Where did you find Frodo? I have been really thinking about what I'm looking for and realized that I'm not really looking for another dressage prospect. What I would want in a Fjord (or a Haflinger) is a stout, sensible, sure footed trail horse that would also be OK with some arena riding, just b/c we can't get out onto the trails every day! But essentially I want a good trail horse, that is sound enough to do some mountain rides and safe enough that I could let my advanced beginner friends ride on a trail. I probably shouldn't have mentioned dressage at all in my description of what I'm looking for as I think people sometimes get the wrong impression of what the word means. At the level I ride, it refers to just basic good riding -- regardless of discipline. Nothing more fancy than transitions and 20 meter circles! Part of what draws me to the small draft breeds like Fjords is that they tend to be so wide and sturdy, so that I can comfortably ride them even though they're short (and short is quite convenient on the trails!) I am too tall and wide through the pelvis to ride a narrow horse, so the more narrow, sport horse type Fjords probably wouldn't suit me anyway. Even in a taller horse I prefer to ride one that is wide through the body. I'm hoping I can find a trail broke Fjord or Haflinger to do some mountain trail riding with this summer, but I'm also willing to wait for the right match to come along. --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
RE: Fjord wanted for trails/dressage
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 4:34 AM +1000 6/22/04, Karen Keith wrote: You're just a stone's throw from Starfire Farm in Berthoud. Have you contacted Beth Beymer and Sandy North Hi Karen. Thanks for the response. Yes, I know Beth and she's been very helpful in showing me what to look for in the breed. I even got to ride her wonderful gelding, BDF Magnum, in a lesson last week. What a neat horse! Thanks to everyone who has responded with horses for sale. There are some really nice Fjords out there! I wish my budget would allow me to go up in price because I think then I'd find the perfect combination of a Fjord that can do dressage and trails plus a little jumping for fun. But I've already lost too much money on dressage horses that ended up with soundness problems, so for now I can only afford a trail horse. I love the idea of a sensible, sure footed, wide bodied and comfortable little horse to take out on mountain trail rides -- and the Fjords sound like a good fit for that! I hear they're addictive, though, so maybe in the future I can look for a sporthorse type ;-) --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
Fjord wanted for trails/dressage
This message is from: Amy Goodloe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi all. I've been lurking on this list for a few days and have already learned a lot! I've had my eye on Fjords now for several years and have finally decided that I want to buy one, so I thought I'd let you know what I'm looking for in case anyone has any possible matches for sale. The short version is that I want a sure-footed, sensible trail horse that can also do a little dressage (training level at schooling shows) -- rather than a dressage horse that can also do some trail riding, if you see the difference. Three or older, 14h or over and fairly stout, gelding or mare (slight preference for mare), and at least green broke but ideally has some trail experience already. Here's the longer version. I like riding a horse that is willing to go forward, not out of nervous tension or excessive energy, just happy to move out under saddle. And I like riding a horse that is responsive to the rider's aids, that moves away from the leg and is light in the hands, or that has the potential to be light (I'd rather have a green horse that just needs education about lightness than to retrain a heavy horse). Three good, comfortable gaits would be nice, including a decent canter that the horse offers easily. And I'd prefer a horse with balanced conformation, so that it's not built downhill and therefore naturally heavy on the forehand. Brave, sensible, non-spooky, cooperative, friendly, totally sound and uncomplicated to work with both on the ground and under saddle. I would prefer to stay around or under $5000, so that's why I say that I'm looking for a trail horse that can do low level dressage rather than the other way around. I also have to consider the cost of shipping (and would prefer to stay within about 1000 miles of Colorado, to keep shipping costs down). If you know of anything for sale that might be a good match, please let me know. I will try to go out to see a horse in person, but if that isn't possible due to a remote location, then I may be willing to buy off a video if it shows me everything I need to see. Most of my horses are drafts and draft crosses so I'm familiar with the issues common to this type of horse, but one of the reasons I want a Fjord is to have the drafty substance and sensibility in a package that is a better size for trail riding than a full sized draft! Thanks, --Amy -- ~~ Camairyn Farm ~*~ Loveland, CO http://www.goodhorse.com/camairyn ~~
