Re: saddle dilema
This message is from: "Mary Ofjord" This message is from: Karen McCarthy Hey Mary, that is a cool story. Yes, Mother Hubbard skirts are excellent for shorter backs as with a reg. western saddle the (?) jockey skirt gets shoved pretty far under the shorter skirt, and there's not a lot of tooling room, so why bother to have 1.5" - 2" hanging out? Also by wade tree, are you maybe referring to the type of fork, a slick fork which is common to these trees and then people use bucking rolls? Yes, that was to what I was referring - a slick fork. A lot of people have heard of Wade-type saddles, but a lot of folks don't know what a slick fork might me. Being an english rider 1st, I really like the slick fork as it doesn't have those nasty bulges to bash your leg into. Understood, however, the way we ride up here, it's nice to have the support of the swells when we are leaning over sawing alder branches out of the way on the trails. We have to keep our own trails open in the National Forest, so we carry saws - instead of ropes. If I carried a rope, someone might expect me to use it! Although I have had to dally my rope around a larger tree, and have my horse pull it to get it out of the way, so in that instance the post horn came in handy...and yes, I hate to sat it, but I think it looks cool! And when I'm riding along, I can put my elbow on it or set my beer on it ;-) Just kidding. I grew up riding in the western saddles and I feel like a postage stamp sitting on top of a barrell if I ride English. But I do admit, my Wintec has a nightlatch on it. The hat I ordered from Out West Saddlery is very nice for the price, and I have since ordered a couple of pioneer shirts and a cattleman's vest from them, and a couple Jeremiah Watt wild rag conchos, which just happen to match my bit's cheek design. How cool is that? Thanks for the tip on their store. Mary O. __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5865 (20110211) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
Re: saddle dilema
This message is from: Shawna Smith As Debbie suggests a second opinion is good idea. You might also go to National bridle shop and check options for bridging. They carry lots for gaited, SB's w/low or sway back often need wedges or built-up pads. Shawna in OR Sent from my iPod > This message is from: Debbie LeBreton > > > Hello to you: My advise to you is get another opinion. >> >> This message is from: laurie with >> >> >> we had a master saddle fitter come to the barn the other day because >> two of us have been having troubles fitting our horses. i got a >> dressage saddle, a nice older albion, XW 19 inch that i Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
RE: saddle dilema
This message is from: Julia Webb My problem was fitting multiple horses. I didn't want to have several saddles that may or may not fit. And since I needed something to fit my less-than-perfect physique, I wanted something to take to lessons as well. The problem with most fixed tree saddles is that no matter how you customize it, it will only fit that horse at that time. Soon as they change...poof. It doesn't fit. So, I ended up going with an American Flex saddle from Hill View Farms in Minnesota as recommended by someone in one of the Fjord list archives. Thus far, it's been great. Rode in it on a Fjord, Andalusian, Warmblood, 14.1 aged Arabian, and a bowling ball of a 13.3 hh Morgan mare. It's been used by friends on a 17hh Percheron, quarter horses and a peaky-withered Thoroughbred. It moves great with their backs, leaves even sweat patterns, no bridging and a clear channel over the spine. Horse gets the advantage of the panel system, while I get a tree (which keeps me off the horse's back--I'm just too heavy for a straight treeless). I started out with dressage and currently take lessons with a dressage instructor using a bosal hackamore and mecate rein on a horse that's trained for dressage and Californio/vaquero riding. Only saddle I've had where I can take up a balanced 2 point without struggling. The system for the saddles: http://www.american-flex.com/system%20discription.htm Pictures of the Caliente I had made last year: http://www.american-flex.com/caliente.htm The fenders may look funny, but that's because I have really short legs. I had a tall cantle and the shortest skirts I could manage with a 17 inch seat (padded up, so it fits like a 16.5, but with lots of "cush"). Good luck, Laurie! They make dressage saddles too... -Julia Webb Wellington, CO "The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing." Albert Einstein Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
RE: saddle dilema
This message is from: Karen McCarthy Hey Mary, that is a cool story. Yes, Mother Hubbard skirts are excellent for shorter backs as with a reg. western saddle the (?) jockey skirt gets shoved pretty far under the shorter skirt, and there's not a lot of tooling room, so why bother to have 1.5" - 2" hanging out? Also by wade tree, are you maybe referring to the type of fork, a slick fork which is common to these trees and then people use bucking rolls? Being an english rider 1st, I really like the slick fork as it doesn't have those nasty bulges to bash your leg into. 'Course I learned in an english saddle so feel a bit trapped by a regular fork. Really hate aussie saddles - almost feels like I am locked in, ugh! Also, in these buckaroo type saddles people get really carried away with the saddle horns. Unless you are a HD roper, forget those 3" post horns. Only good for setting your B'day cupcake on once a year! A mexican style horn stays outta the way, but if you need it to dally on or hang onto, it's there. All personal preference & jmpo of course.. > From: ma...@boreal.org > To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com > Subject: Re: saddle dilema > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 21:06:59 -0600 > > This message is from: "Mary Ofjord" > > > I had a similar experience with Dry Fork Saddles in Vernal, Utah. I worked > with a fellow named Cal Cook. They asked for a picture of my horse, Mirage, > with measurements showing his very short back - 13" from withers to loin. > They also had to shave the tree to shorten it. I had to send them pictures, > with measurements so they could correctly fit the saddle to the horse. They > asked what I did for riding, how tall I was, etc. They built a saddle > around those specifications. Dry Fork Saddles makes the McCall saddle. It > is not a "custom" saddle, but the closest thing for much less than a custom. > These are good working saddles and the saddle I received is wide enough > through the gullet to fit all my Fjords. > > > > By far, this is the most comfortable saddle I have owned. When I first sat > in it, it fit me like a glove. There was no break in time. The pre-turned > stirrups were even set for my height when I first sat in the saddle. They > also suggested that I do Mother Hubbard style with only one rear skirt. > This lessens the weight and length of the overall saddle. I ordered a Wood > Post Pendleton Association tree with a swell fork for more security (never > could figure out why to buy a Wade-type tree only to add saddle falsies?). I > would reccomend these saddles highly. > > Mary O. > > > > I have tried a lot of saddles over the years to fit Fjords. So far, this > has been the best for a non-custom Western saddle. > > > Here's what we did: > > 1. Shortened the bars - in standard trees bars are too long and are the > > most > > responsible aspect for "bridging" > > 2. the bars need to curve more to fit through the back > > 3. the ends of the bars need flaring also called "rocking" @ each end, > > esp. in > > the front to allow a wider stance/gullet. > > Anyways, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear but it's just what I > > know > > from experience. > > Maybe go all english? > > Good luck, > > Karen in Oregon > > > > Important FjordHorse List Links: > > Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e > > FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw > > Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f > > > > > > > > __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus > > signature database 5863 (20110210) __ > > > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > > > http://www.eset.com > > > > > > > > > __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5863 (20110210) __ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > Important FjordHorse List Links: > Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e > FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw > Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
Re: saddle dilema
This message is from: "Mary Ofjord" I had a similar experience with Dry Fork Saddles in Vernal, Utah. I worked with a fellow named Cal Cook. They asked for a picture of my horse, Mirage, with measurements showing his very short back - 13" from withers to loin. They also had to shave the tree to shorten it. I had to send them pictures, with measurements so they could correctly fit the saddle to the horse. They asked what I did for riding, how tall I was, etc. They built a saddle around those specifications. Dry Fork Saddles makes the McCall saddle. It is not a "custom" saddle, but the closest thing for much less than a custom. These are good working saddles and the saddle I received is wide enough through the gullet to fit all my Fjords. By far, this is the most comfortable saddle I have owned. When I first sat in it, it fit me like a glove. There was no break in time. The pre-turned stirrups were even set for my height when I first sat in the saddle. They also suggested that I do Mother Hubbard style with only one rear skirt. This lessens the weight and length of the overall saddle. I ordered a Wood Post Pendleton Association tree with a swell fork for more security (never could figure out why to buy a Wade-type tree only to add saddle falsies?). I would reccomend these saddles highly. Mary O. I have tried a lot of saddles over the years to fit Fjords. So far, this has been the best for a non-custom Western saddle. Here's what we did: 1. Shortened the bars - in standard trees bars are too long and are the most responsible aspect for "bridging" 2. the bars need to curve more to fit through the back 3. the ends of the bars need flaring also called "rocking" @ each end, esp. in the front to allow a wider stance/gullet. Anyways, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear but it's just what I know from experience. Maybe go all english? Good luck, Karen in Oregon Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5863 (20110210) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5863 (20110210) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
RE: saddle dilema
This message is from: Karen McCarthy Laurie, I totally understand about what the saddle fitter is telling you about the Fallis saddle. I have ridden in one (my friend has a nice older one for her QH) and they are different in that you get a truer seat position, not too chair-like and built up so you get behind the motion as most other western saddles tend to.The stirrups hang under you and the saddles are rigged differently w/ less bulk. But I digress. I think for most fjords, IF you are going 'traditional' western, unless the saddle is custom made, and that means from the tree up, that you will never get a 100% good fit. I know because I worked w/ a really good saddle maker ( Rick Ricotti) to make my saddle (wow, has it been over 20 years ago??!! OMG.) Rick also happened to be a very good civil engineer and was really into getting the tree to fit. Took us 3 attempts at sending the tree back + forth w/ the tree guy in Utah. This is not for the faint of heart as yes it will cost you. But the good thing is I still ride in that saddle and it fits 97% of what I ride, even non-fjords. Its also kept a good value should I ever part with it (no). Here's what we did: 1. Shortened the bars - in standard trees bars are too long and are the most responsible aspect for "bridging" 2. the bars need to curve more to fit through the back 3. the ends of the bars need flaring also called "rocking" @ each end, esp. in the front to allow a wider stance/gullet. Anyways, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear but it's just what I know from experience. Maybe go all english? Good luck, Karen in Oregon Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
RE: saddle dilema
This message is from: Debbie LeBreton Hello to you: My advise to you is get another opinion. I had a similiar experience and found out that one told me it was really wrong and the other saddle fitter expert told me that it fit like a glove. So please check out your other options. Debbie > From: livingi...@q.com > To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com > Subject: saddle dilema > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 17:29:04 -0600 > > This message is from: laurie with > > > we had a master saddle fitter come to the barn the other day because > two of us have been having troubles fitting our horses. i got a > dressage saddle, a nice older albion, XW 19 inch that i thought might > fit both of us but wasn't sure. it doesn't fit him. we might or might > not be able to adjust it, but i am not that emotionally attached to it. > > i then told her that i rode in a Balanced Ride Saddle, which really > got her attention since she knows how well built they are, and the > principles behind them (google john fallis saddles if interested). i > have been riding in mine since before i got oz. imagine my shock when > we put it on and she immediately said it was too tight on his withers > and bridges on his back. i never expected that, and felt guilty that i > didn't realize it for all this time. > > i didn't expect to be trying to find saddle options, but here i am. > there is a possibility that it can be used with a contoured wool pad, > but not for sure. i contacted the maker (these are all done by hand > and custom made. i got one made by my former riding instructor's > husband who worked with john fallis on his methods) who said he can't > make it bigger, and i would have to buy a custom one if i wanted one. > he suggested that most of the ones that can be found for sale used > most likely won't fit a fjord. and even used, they aren't cheap. > > i am crushed right now. my finances this year are really sucky. i > don't want to ride him on a saddle that doesn't fit, and i have ridden > this one for so long i have no idea what else is out there. any ideas > or suggestions? > > treeless? aussie? i'm not so worried about the dressage, but i am > getting into the western dressage movement, and really need to fix this. > > thanks > > laurie and oz the yak > > Important FjordHorse List Links: > Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e > FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw > Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
