Tying while hitching...
This message is from: Susan Giargiari Hi Everyone! Sue g. here! We had a special lead rope that had a ring in it that you could slide to where it needed to be and then there was a hook on each end. I think it is called a "neck rope"! You fit it around the neck behind the ears so it won't be large enough of a opening for the horse to be able to back up and slide out of it! Then you used the hook down the other end to hitch to what ever. You can then put on the bridle and the horse isn't hitched with the bridle. This was great as a safety no matter whether we were at home hitching or at a show. ADS I don't know about but it certainly works to make it safe for everyone! On another note! Hilmar , who is now a gelding of 10 months, is going to live with Sam Stanley at Barefoot Farm! She has my Stella who is now 25. I got her at 4 years old! Wow! Hilmar is now 24he is at the farm I sold in Northfield, but the lady doesn't have time for him so Sam is going to see if he will fit into her program. I am going to meet her at her farm and then we will go get HilmarI can't wait to see him and Stella reunited!! I can't wait to see Stella! She has been with Sam for going on to 3 years now...when I got custody of my grandson, Jordan, and had to go back to work...couldn't go out and chance getting hurt! Life has certainly changed for me but doors get opened and I believe we have the choice to walk thru them! I live with my Mom, Dad passed away two years ago, and my handicapped sister. They help me with Jordan and I just got a job bathing dogs! I start in September ,.so am excited about that! Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
Re: tying to hitch
This message is from: Aol Thats how I do it also Jim Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone jadeb...@aol.com wrote: >This message is from: jadeb...@aol.com > > >I tie while putting harness on and untie to hitch up. It's nice to have a >header but, as has been wisely pointed out, many of us don't always have >that luxury. If I had to have all the people the ADS says I should have >around >to drive my horse, I too would never get to go anywhere. At a horse show, >it's not usually difficult to get someone to stand and engage your pony in >witty conversation while you hitch up but at home you have to make the rules >and adjustments that work for you. And, as we all know, even the most >experienced driver, with the world's best pony and all the help they could >wish >for, can have bad stuff happen. > >Kay >and Braveheart, who can hardly wait to be hitched and off >and Bogie, who prefers to stand while being hitched, stand for a while >longer and then stand to be unhitched > >Important FjordHorse List Links: >Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e >FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw >Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
RE: tying to hitch
This message is from: Karen McCarthy In ADS circle tying while hitched is frowned upon, if not grounds for elimination @ a show (but then I am a lapsed ADS member so don't know for sure)...In teamster/working horse circles it is considered OK I think it is just fine if the horse is unbridled attended, meaning someone who knows something is nearby. An unattended bridled & hitched horse = not a great idea. I was at a show one time, where I swear to you-know-who, someone left a bridled & harnessed (not hitched) Arab un-attended. Well, thier harness adjustment left something to be desired as the backband was way too long, the crupper was 1/2 way down his dock, and the breeching was dangling above his hocks. Of course he freaked when the breeching "tickled" him where he didn't expect it, then proceeded to kick the living crap out of the harness and trailer and frighten himself into an altered state known only to some Arabs, not to mention freaking all the surronding horses & thier peeps. Personally, I teach all my horses to HOBBLE along w/ the voice command to "whoa" which I teach while grooming them un-tied. It solves alot of issues, standing tied being one. Karen in warmish Madras > From: g...@zeliga.com > To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com > Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 15:11:39 -0700 > Subject: RE: tying to hitch > > This message is from: Gail Russell > > > I have never been so glad that I > always tie to hitch. > > It sounds like it was definitely a good choice, but I do have a question. Is it not the conventional wisdom in the carriage driving world that one is not supposed to tie to hitch...but instead must have a header? Or do I have that wrong? If it is considered incorrect to tie while hitching, I would be interested in the accident scenarios that are used to justify the no-tie rule. > > I do not mean to be difficult or challenging. Just curious. > > Gail > > Important FjordHorse List Links: > Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e > FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw > Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Classified Ads: http://tinyurl.com/5b5g2f
tying
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Kate - so glad you got off so easily and no one was hurt and you will remember forever. Friends of mine tied their quiet Qhorse to a round pen panel. For some unknown reason he spooked and off he went with the panel. Gruesome story short, he severed an artery in his pastern and was put down. It does not always end well. I am glad you were lucky. Valerie Columbia CT The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
tying on a highline
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have camped out with my Fjords many many times and never had any problem whatsoever to tie them on a highline. In fact I use this as a training tool to teach my young horses how to stand tied quietly for a longer period of time. If the highline is tied properly it is one of the safest methods to secure your horse for overnight trips. The line should be tied quite high above the tallest horses head and without any give.A swivel should be tied into the line so the lead rope does not become tighter on the horse or tangled up somehow. The leadrope should be fairly short so the horse can't get a foot over it. I usually shorten up the lead rope for the night and leave it longer only if I can watch the horse. If a haynet is tied into the line next to the horse it will help keep it content and busy.It works kind of like a pinata for horses. I find a highline allows for a little bit of movement and if a young horse wants to try pulling back it won't hurt any neck muscles. Happy trails Uli The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Fwd: Tying a 2 y/o
This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Note: forwarded message attached. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type multipart/mixed]
Tying a young or green horse
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I like to run the lead line through an eye bolt set in a barn post about head level. This way, you can let a lot of play out, or reel it back in. The horse is "tied" in that you can move around him, but you still hold the end of the lead in one hand. I still use this method when washing the horse by myself. If the horse pulls back and wants out of there, you have enough slack to get things under control again before the horse is loose. So far. Valerie
Re: Tying a Two Year old for the first time?
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] An older horse that know how to tie is always handy to tie next to the youngster. I also like the bungee ties that stretch and start in small sessions. Tie him and make it enjoyable. Groom him, put up a hay net and them put him away. Key is to keep it short and gradually make it longer. Make it something he looks forward to doing.They learn a lot from watching other horses, so if you do have and old steady that will speed the process. Bonnie
Tying a Two Year old for the first time?
This message is from: Holly Tuck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Folks, I'm away from home right now but will be back at the beginning of next week, finally! My question has to do with a two year old that I picked up in March. I have done some work with her but nothing that had any tying involved. I finally went to tie her up and she went up and down and everything else she could think of to get loose. My actually question is that I'm asking for advice on how to actually teach this two year old to tie without hurting herself? Any information or opinions would be appreciated. I teach mine young to tie at their mom's sides. Please email me privately. Thanks, Holly Holly A. Tuck 16 McCluskey Drive R.R.#3 Thunder Bay, Ontario P7C 4V2 Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Free horse tying video
This message is from: "LYNN BINKOWSKI" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wow, I have gone from being a serious lurker to posting three times in 24 hours! I discovered that Clinton Anderson is offering a free horse tying video on his website (though you have to agree to be on their mailing list). Thought I'd let the list know in case anyone is interested "Learn the knots, training techniques and aids that make tying your horse safe and easy every time. Clinton will show you how! Runtime: 55 minutes. A $29.99 Value, Yours FREE! Offer good July 1 - Aug 15, 2005." http://www.downunderhorsemanship.com/ -Lynn http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
ground tying
This message is from: Bonnie Liermann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks everyone who responded on the list or privately. The websites listed gave alot of info. I appreciate it. bonnie in Wi
Re: Ground Tying/hobbling
This message is from: "Karen McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Everyone, Beth Beymer should really be the one talking about this subject, as i know she uses it almost exclusively when grooming etc., not so much as the end in itself, but as a way to have the horse really direct its attentions on you at all times when you are working with him/her. I am a practitioner of ground tying (and hobbling), albeit a lax one, and yes, it needs constant re-inforcement to be effective. If I know I have a Trail course coming up that will have a ground-tying effort in it, I will practice allot beforehand with a horse, but it is pretty much an extension of what I allready teach them about standing "whoa" in a harness or under saddle anyway. This may sound a little dorky, but if you have ever taught a dog a downstay or a sit, especially when working around (honoring) other dogs, to me it is almost the same as teaching a horse. Verbal/body language comand, "whoa" park, re-park, re-park, etc...but never "loose" it or else game is up & effort is a wasted one. When I am in the arena, sometimes I get off and want to move a cone or adjust a ground pole: a great excuse for making a horse ground tie! Or, if I am really working on this, I sometimes walk in ever expanding circles, picking up stones in the arena as I go, being VERY careful to ignore the horse (or make the horse believe this, by avoiding all eye contact.) When make my way back to the horse, I still do not really look at any part of the horse, rather I just walk up, usually into the zone behind the shoulder/in front of the haunches, and then go about my business, maybe adjusting something, but NEVER, EVER appearing as if I am in any kind of a rush or hurry to get on or move off. Dwell a bit, and you shall reap the rewards of a patient, listening horse. I do praise the horse allot at first, then less as they "get it", but always with some kind of a scritch or scratch at the withers, behind the jowl or in front of the saddle gullet at the withers, whatever, just a reaffirming, "thank you, we're back, OK?" When I showed Catherine Lassesen's mare Lupin in the advanced driving test at the '98 Eval in Eugene, we were required to unhitch/re-hitch, in the arena, un-assisted. we had to do this test on grass, LOVELY grass! and she nary moved a muscle the whole test, she was awesome, and several folks commented to me at how obedient she was for this portion of the test. I had taught Lupin to hobble, and so the ground tying thing became easy, as I just made barely a motion as if to bend down, touched her coronet bands on her front feet w/ my hand, and later just the toe of my boot, and Lu thought she was hobbled - Voila! Karen McCarthy Great Basin Fjords Carson City, NV _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
Re: Ground Tying
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Bonnie wrote: > ...does anyone know how you ground-tie?... Never taught my horses to ground tie, although I have been teaching them all to stand hobbled. There is a good article on hobbling in the May 2001 issue of Western Horseman ( http://www.westernhorseman.com ). The author teaches a horse to accept hobbles and stand quietly while the handler is nearby holding a lead rope. After the hobbling lesson is well learned, the author then begins to teach the idea that the horse should stand still while hobbled after the human drops the lead rope and moves a little distance away. The lesson is reinforced by moving further and further away as the horse learns what is expected. I suppose the ground-tying lesson is then taught without the hobbles. The author cautions that if you want a horse to stay exactly in one place, don't expect a ground tie or hobbles to be a sure-fire way to do that. Tie them instead. I have heard that ground tying must be reinforced frequently. It's not a skill that can be taught once, then forgotten -- if you don't use it, you'll lose it. The horse does not naturally stand for long periods without moving or grazing. If you want that, you have to keep working with the horse to keep the ground-tying skill fresh. DeeAnna
Re: tying after exercise
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 3/25/01 10:18:50 PM Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > A trainer I really like that helps me out > always ties up his "trainee's" for 1/2 hour after their daily lesson. > He's convinced it makes them a better horse and less barn sour. > Nancy, I have read about this. The article said that instead of looking forward to being free, they're looking forward to a lesson in patience and with much less anticipation. It's 80 degrees here and everything is blooming that blooms -- we do live in the desert. Time for the nasty dust storms to start. Our falls and winters are marvelous. now comes the tricky part. Gail Dorine Las Cruces, NM
Re: tying
This message is from: Mary Thurman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks. I have > problems with Riba-Louise > because she grabs and pulls everything she can > reach. > This includes untying the > rope she is tied with, gloves, brushes, you name it, > if it's in her reach she > grabs it and pulls it. Sounds like Riba-Louise needs a taste of some 'Anti Chew'. This particular concoction is made by Bio Groom - marketed as Anit Chew, in a spray bottle. It is SO bitter that they really leave it alone! I used it for my 'chewer'/grabber and he soon learned he didn't like it's taste - or smell. Made him think twice before indicriminately grabbing something in his mouth. He eventually outgrew this - or got tired of never knowing if it would taste bad or not - and stopped the behaviour. This was a horse that would grab anything he could reach, chew his manger, and virtually 'ate' lead ropes! Mary = Mary Thurman Raintree Farms [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/
Re: tying
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 1/5/01 9:51:23 AM Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << You take the decision out of their hands by hobbling them - in essence you say to them "Mom(or Dad) says you handle this by standing still". It's amazing how quickly they settle down - and often just go to sleep! Mary >> Nice posts, Mary and Karen. Thanks. I have problems with Riba-Louise because she grabs and pulls everything she can reach. She's like a 2-year-old kid in front of a laden coffee table. This includes untying the rope she is tied with, gloves, brushes, you name it, if it's in her reach she grabs it and pulls it. She also can open gates if they're not horse-proof. Gail D. Vinson Las Cruces, NM
Horses Tying
This message is from: "Tish Pasqual" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have to add my comments here, since our barn just had a very recent experience with this. My friend recently bought a lovely Morgan, 4 year old filly. She hadn't been worked with too much, but was very, very sweet and friendly. She spent a few months out in the pasture, then went to an Amish trainer for driving. Dropped off at 10 a.m., dead at 6 p.m. Left tied in a tie stall, she flipped herself over. My point: horses need to learn how to stand tied. You have to be there with them while they are learning, to supervise and avoid injury. Tie head high so that they don't pull out their neck muscles. Be patient with them, it can take a while. There are many detailed methods offered by trainers, including John Lyons and others. Sometimes it is just a matter of age. Tish and Elph in Minneapolis Where we miss Holly so much and where Elph is VERY happy to be turned out in his dry lot instead of in a stall at Blue Earth!
Safety tying fjords
This message is from: "Betsy Bauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jane wrote> > One thing that set the alarm bells off while reading was a description > on how to tie a horse. They used a loop of string to tie the lead or > cross tie to, I think Carol R. mentioned this as well, so that if a > horse pulls when tied the string will break and the horse will not > become injured in the poll or neck from the tie up. Sort of a cheap and > available "quick release". Yes, this is a practice of the Pony Clubs also. They teach the kids to use a small circle of twine to tie to the horse trailers while at the mounted meetings. They are in favor of the quick release and to allow the horse to go free, not causing problems for the horse or the children. Keep extra twine handy. Also the pull apart halter releases the horse. I also wanted to encourage any of your who have fjords for sale to contact me. Spring will be coming soon - the best time of year to sell your fjords. My marketing service is in full swing and I could connect you with folks looking for fjords. Any fjords in the Eastern States need some assistance? All parts of the country and Canada requested. Also, Thursday nite chat's for assisting my marketing process, Betsy Bauer www.fjordpony.com Email working again.
Re: Tying horses/Gates
This message is from: "Jean Gayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Laurie, I also have the pipe heavy gate. this boy was a head butter when he first came so whether he was lifting the heavy gate and butting the middle board, I do not know. It will be interesting to see what he has done tomorrow! Jean Gayle Aberdeen, WA [Authoress of "The Colonel's Daughter" ] http://www.techline.com/~jgayle -Original Message- From: Laurie Pittman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: fjordhorse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, June 10, 1999 9:01 PM Subject: Tying horses/Gates >used a railroad tie), they can not be screwed into the post. Tor hasn't >put a dent in it. > >Laurie > >
Tying horses/Gates
This message is from: "Laurie Pittman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a real horror story about tying horses. I friend of mine had a niece who would get tired of holding her horse, so she would tie it to her self. She thought he would never do anything to hurt her. Well, I probably don't have to tell you what happened, but he did spook one day, and dragged the girl to her death. I was horrified when I heard this. Then I found that I was angry. It was just so senseless. The parents knew that she did this and told her not to, but never did anything (or at least not enough) to stop her. What a waste. Another story was about a green broke, scared of everything, 3 year old gelding. The owners were new to horses as well. Bad combination. They put him in the cross ties after a ride one day but after taking off the bridle, they just left the halter around his neck. Just as they loosened the girth, something spooked the horse. In the process of throwing a major tantrum, the saddle slipped under his belly and then he ended up falling down, the halter still around his neck. When he managed to get back up, he slipped out of the halter and got out of the barn. He then proceeded to make a few laps around the yard, going through everything in his path, falling twice. They think he broke his leg on the first fall. On the second fall he broke it off. Yes, you read that right. Every time I think of this, I wonder, what if...what if the halter had been put on right...what if the barn had been closed..what if there hadn't been so much junk around the barnwhat if.. It really worries me when I see or hear about people being less than careful with their horses just because they're fjords. Even fjords can do stupid things sometimes. (No, these two weren't fjords). Jean, about gates, I bought a heavy duty livestock gate (pipe, not panel) made by HiQual. The reason I got it is because the gate hangers are part of the gate. The is no way that the gate can be removed from the hinges. The bolts do have to go all the way through the gate post (I used a railroad tie), they can not be screwed into the post. Tor hasn't put a dent in it. Laurie
Re: Tying up/ tripping
This message is from: Mary Thurman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ---Dave McWethy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This message is from: "Dave McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Mary, you mention that your horse had worked the day before his problems. > What were the conditions that day in terms of heat and humidity? > Tripping - From time to time I have had tripping problems. The two things I > would recommend are to be sure to not let the horse go too long between > trimmings (the tripper might need a somewhat shorter interval than the non > tripper), and secondly, to roll the toes on the front, whether with shoes or > not. Also be sure you have a steep enough angle on the trim. Dave, The weather conditions were the usual for March in the Pacific Northwest - abyssmal. Rain, wind, temps in the 40's - but the clinic was held inside an enclosed arena with one end door ajar. The arena was not heated, so it was cool in there. He was worked hard, walked to cool out, blanketed with a light sheet, given a sip of water and then let stand a while before loading up for the 20 minute trip home. His back legs were shaky when I walked him to his stall when we got home, so we bedded him down in a boxstall for the night. The next morning he was down and very hard to get up, so treatment started from there. We find that he trips if he goes even a week too long between shoeing/trimming. And he needs it every six to seven weeks. I need to check if my new farrier is rolling his toes when he works on him - I always did that when I was doing my own trimming, which I no longer do. Some things we have to give up as our back ages. Thanks for your advice. Mary == Mary Thurman Raintree Farms [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Tying up/ tripping
This message is from: "Dave McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mary, you mention that your horse had worked the day before his problems. What were the conditions that day in terms of heat and humidity? Tripping - From time to time I have had tripping problems. The two things I would recommend are to be sure to not let the horse go too long between trimmings (the tripper might need a somewhat shorter interval than the non tripper), and secondly, to roll the toes on the front, whether with shoes or not. Also be sure you have a steep enough angle on the trim.
Re: tying up
This message is from: Mary Thurman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ---Steven A White <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This message is from: Steven A White <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > On Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:15:11 -0800 (PST) Mary Thurman > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > >We had an experience last spring with one of our three-year-old > >geldings that the vet thought was a case of tying up. So he ran the > >tests - urine, blood, etc. - and came up with a blank. > > Mary, > > What type of blood tests did the veterinarian run and in what time frame > from the tying up episode. The best indicator that I have found for this > condition is a blood test called CPK. Steve, The vet ran a CPK test the morning after the horse developed symptoms. He also ran it the next day - still the same results. The urine test was run at the same time as the first CPK - looking for "coffee" color. The urine was normal colored, as it remained during the entire episode, which went on for about 36 hours before I got fed up and tried electrolytes. Still not sure they were the best answer, but they worked better than what he was trying. At no time did the horse show a fever, so I'm not sure why he tried penicillin. Maybe out of frustration, or to cover his bases? This was not my "regular" horse vet, who was unavailable that weekend, but another vet from the same clinic whose expertise is really with dairy cattle, although he has treated my horses/delivered a foal for us in the past. After learning about EPSM and reading the list of symptoms/possible misdiagnosis and studying the history of this particular horse, I'm inclined to think he has some form of it. Especially since his overall condition and attitude have improved with the diet change. The real proof will come when we start using him regularly this summer. Thanks for your interest. Mary == Mary Thurman Raintree Farms [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: tying up
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (jean gayle) Nope Jean Gayle, maybe that is another "missing link" to the puzzle of why horses tie up. >This message is from: "Dave McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Glad whoever wrote about tying up reminded me. I had a conversation with >some endurance folks this weekend about tying up. I realized that I have >never heard of an incident of a Fjord tying up. Has anyone had any direct >experience of tie up with a Fjord? > Jean Gayle --- A Subscriber at Techline
Re: tying up
This message is from: Steven A White <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:15:11 -0800 (PST) Mary Thurman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: >We had an experience last spring with one of our three-year-old >geldings that the vet thought was a case of tying up. So he ran the >tests - urine, blood, etc. - and came up with a blank. Mary, What type of blood tests did the veterinarian run and in what time frame from the tying up episode. The best indicator that I have found for this condition is a blood test called CPK. This is a muscle enzyme that elevates in the blood when there is a condition like tying up or bad muscle injury. However, it doesn't elevate right away. So if you draw the blood at the time of treatment it will probably come back normal. Also, it drops off quickly, so if you wait too long to sample then it will also look normal. When I suspect a horse is tying up, I usually treat for it and then come back the following morning to draw the blood to confirm it. Also, this tells me how severe the case is. If the values are relatively low, then no further treatment is usually needed. If the values are very elevated then further treatment is warranted as well as further monitoring to prevent complications such as kidney damage. -Steve Steve & Amy White Waterloo, NE, USA
Re: tying up
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 06:54 AM 1/27/99 -0500, you wrote: >This message is from: "Dave McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Glad whoever wrote about tying up reminded me. I had a conversation with >some endurance folks this weekend about tying up. I realized that I have >never heard of an incident of a Fjord tying up. Has anyone had any direct >experience of tie up with a Fjord? Dave, the incidence of EPSM, which includes symptoms of tying up, stiffness, etc. have been identified in Fjords and draft horse breeds, altho I don't know if they showed the actual "tying-up " symptom. An illustration in the first article in Michael Plumb's Horse Journal (July l996) shows a Fjord (drawing) demonstrating the inability to generate a proper canter, with a very stiff gait. To quote from this article: "EPSM has been documented in Quarter Horses, Paints, Appaloosas, Percherons and Belgians. A form of EPSM is also believed to occur in Arabians, NORWEGIAN FJORDS, Morgans, Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds and warmbloods in which glycogen, not polysaccharide, accumulates in the muscles." Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, where we are back in the deep freeze with -43 degrees..And the weather service is warning of a severe cold wave that will be the coldest in ten years! :-( > > > ** Jean Ernest Fairbanks, Alaska [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: tying up
This message is from: Mary Thurman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ---Dave McWethy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This message is from: "Dave McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Glad whoever wrote about tying up reminded me. I had a conversation with > some endurance folks this weekend about tying up. I realized that I have > never heard of an incident of a Fjord tying up. Has anyone had any direct > experience of tie up with a Fjord? Dave, We had an experience last spring with one of our three-year-old geldings that the vet thought was a case of tying up. So he ran the tests - urine, blood, etc. - and came up with a blank. Ditto on colic. So the vet decided the horse must have an infection of some sort and put him on penicillin. I was not impressed. The horse's symptoms came on after a rather strenuous/stressful workout at a training clinic. First he seemed shaky in the rearend, so I thought he was just tired from the stress and work, plus standing in the trailer on the way home. We put him in a bedded box stall for the night and the next morning he would not get up, eat, drink, etc. So the testing, experimenting started. I finally got fed up by the next day and mixed him some electrolites in tepid water, which he drank immediately (maybe it was the sweetness he wanted, I don't know). An hour later I gave him another bucket of the stuff, and by then he was eating. The next day he was fine, though a little "grumpy". We now suspect he has EPSM and have started him on the high fat/low carb. diet. He has put on weight, his attitude is much more relaxed, and he seems better coordinated than he was before. We'll see how he does when the real work starts this summer. So I'm not sure that our experience qualifies as "tying up". Mary, in dreary Washington == Mary Thurman Raintree Farms [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
tying up
This message is from: "Dave McWethy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Glad whoever wrote about tying up reminded me. I had a conversation with some endurance folks this weekend about tying up. I realized that I have never heard of an incident of a Fjord tying up. Has anyone had any direct experience of tie up with a Fjord?
tying up/EPSM and diet (Long!)
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mary Thurman's mention of a "hard keeper" Fjord with wasted muscles and tying up sounds a lot like EPSM. (Equine Polyllsaccharide Storage Myopathy) Here is a copy of the latest article in Michael Plumb's Horse Journal,October, 1998: * Feeding EPSM Horses For Maximum Results Zero in on an overhaul of the horse's diet as the first line of treatment for EPS1W. Symptoms Of EPSM ·Poor performance ·Loss of muscle, especially rump eStiff hind limb gait .Difficulty generating a canter .Tying up ·Lack of energy ."Shivers" ·Sudden onset of recumbency, unable to rise .Difficulty standing on three legs ·Poor muscling and energy in young to young-adult Miniatures EPSM-not to be confused with the neurological disease EPM-is a muscle disease that can cause tying up, stiff gaits and poor performance. EPSM horses are physically unable to generate a proper canter and have muscle wasting, leaving horse owners and veterinarians frustrated as they search for a cause. In July1996, we discussed EPSM-equine polysaccharide storage myopathy-and explained that the root of the problem is these horses' inability to properly break down the glycogen in their muscles, which results in an excess of glycogen and leads to muscular cramping and weakness. Since then, Dr. Beth Valentine and researchers at Cornell University have fine-tuned the dietary recommendations for these horses and brought to light typical misdiagnoses made in the field. EPSM "LOOK-ALIKES" Colic: Careful examination, including observation of defecation, intestinal sounds and blood testing for increased muscle enzyme levels, help distinguish colic due to gastrointestinal pain and colic due to muscle pain/EPSM. Poor Mover: The short, stiff, stabbing gait of EPSM horses, often described as "pony-gaited," has no basis in poor conformation. Hock Problems, Arthritis: EPSM horses often have poor hock flexion at the walk and backing and may have difficulties holding hind feet up for the farrier. Careful examination of the hocks helps differentiate actual joint disease from EPSM. Equine Protozoal Myeloencephalitis (EPM):Atrophy of rump muscles and proximal thigh and rear-limb weakness may be mistaken for spinal-cord disease due to EPM. Equine Motor Neuron Disease (EMM)): Lyme Disease: Anemia: Some EPSM horses show low-level anemia, lack energy and exhibit poor performance-symptoms that may be blamed on anemia. Behavioral Problems/Hack Soreness: EPSM horses may be grumpy under saddle and resent being asked to canter, to carry themselves in a forward manner, or to go up or down hills. Some EPSM horses repeatedly stop and assume the parked-out stance of a urinating horse. This can be mistaken for back soreness, poor saddle fit or behavior problems. Tying Up: The exact causes of tying up are undetermined (see April 1998, May 1998), and horses do tie up for reasons unrelated to EPSM. To date, however, Dr. Valentine's results indicate that EPSM may be a more common cause than previously thought. EPSM horses may also have decreased levels of selenium, thought to be a cause of tying up, but EPSM horses still have problems when selenium levels are corrected. EPSM RECOMMENDED Diet The EPSM diet decreases soluble dietary carbohydrates (grain, molasses) and increases fat. The horse's hay/pasture are generally not altered, but the addition of fat is critical, regardless of whether the horse is on grain or not. By increasing fat and decreasing the carbohydrates, we gradually "train" the muscle to use more fat for energy than normal, decreasing reliance on g1ycog~. This diet is safe for any horse and, therefore, can safely be used as a trial to see if EPSM is the underlying problem. However, ask your veterinarian to work with you during the trial. One simple, effective method is to replace grain with an approximately equal amount of alfalfa or other hay-based pellets and gradually add vegetable oil until the horse is eating two cups of oil per day for a 1,000-pound horse. Corn, soy, canola and coconut oils are effective. Since this diet is low in zinc, manganese, iodine and vitamin E (if alfalfa only), we recommend you add a vitamin-and-mineral supplement. This diet is higher in protein than traditional diets, but high protein does not cause problems. In fact, the horse will use protein for energy and to rebuild damaged muscle. For finicky horses, part or all of the pellets can be replaced by a lower soluble carbohydrate commercial feed such as Purina Strategy or Blue Seal Demand, Racer or Vintage Gold. Add the same amount of oil. If your horse objects to the oil, choose a feed higher in fat-Purina Athlete (14% fat) or Buckeye Equine Energy (25% fat)-and decrease the oil. Uckele Animal Health's Cocosoya is also a good fat source that is well tolerated. Because equine fe
