Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Mark Street]

EXCELLENT results tonight thanks to all you comrades.  I only have one roll
of Tri X in my fridge, which I will shoot and develop tomorrow.  I do have
some 2x and 4x rolls left though... Can I process those (as negative
obviously) in Dektol?

all the best,
Mark Street
www.markstreetfilms.com

On Sun, Aug 2, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Scott Dorsey  wrote:

> Yes, ST8 will run nicely in dektol, it is intended to run in print
> chemistry.
> --scott
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Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Scott Dorsey]

Yes, ST8 will run nicely in dektol, it is intended to run in print
chemistry.
--scott
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Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Nicky Hamlyn]

I got nice results using Dektol with Agfa ST8 sound film. Nicky 

Envoyé à partir de mon smartphone Sony Xperia™ 

 Scott Dorsey a écrit 

>Dektol is a very, very fast-working developer and very grainy.  It is
>intended for paper and print materials, not for film.  It may be possible
>to use very diluted dektol but you will have to do some testing on short
>lengths, and the results will tend to be inconsistent because of the short
>times.
>--scott
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Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Roger D. Wilson]

Hey Mark! I've used Dektol with 3378, I like the look but have not used it with 
tri x. With the 3378 I only process in pail for about 2.5 minutes. Do a very 
short test of film, I suspect 3 mins at max for Dektol.
Good luck!

Sent from Outlook

_
From: Mark Street 
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2015 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like    
a savage
To: Experimental Film Discussion List 


 Hi Roger,   
  Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76?  Am 
about to jump in as soon as it gets dark here in Brooklyn tonight, and I bought 
Dektol  
  
 all the best, 
Mark Street
  www.markstreetfilms.com   
   
   On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson 
 wrote:
This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog.   
 
  Hand Processing 16mm black and white film 
   Materials for processing film as negative:
 Kodak D-76 Developer (powder)Kodak 
Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to tint and tone 
film)2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers   
 1 Flat-top thermometer1 Measuring graduate 
   4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from 
Home Depot)1 Funnel1 Pair rubber gloves 
   1 Face mask1 Pair scissors   
 1 Length of string and clothes pegs1 Pair goggles  
  1 Photographers loupe1 Watch that glows in 
the dark
 
 You should process film in a room that has running water. 
The room should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to 
process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best 
and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it 
with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in. 
Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the 
darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough.    
 
 Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be 
careful and use goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well 
ventilated room. 
 Step by Step Instructions
 To develop film as negative:
 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on 
packaging. Store chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the 
containers with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 
1000’ of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts 
longer so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals.

 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I 
allow the chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to 
process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between 
20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the 
develop time. 
 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. 
Pour into the first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside 
it with water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth 
pail with water. 
 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix 
light leaks before processing film.
 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of 
exposed 16mm film out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film 
you wish to process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results 
will be (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be 
processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it when 
you turn the lights back on. 
 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the 
D-76 developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually 
process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend 
doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your 
film in camera.
 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and 
dunk in water and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes.  
  
 8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in 
Rapid Fixer. Agitate the f

Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Scott Dorsey]

Dektol is a very, very fast-working developer and very grainy.  It is
intended for paper and print materials, not for film.  It may be possible
to use very diluted dektol but you will have to do some testing on short
lengths, and the results will tend to be inconsistent because of the short
times.
--scott
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Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Jeff Kreines]

> On Jul 31, 2015, at 2:12 PM, Mark Street  wrote:
> 
> Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76?  

It will be much more contrasty. 

Jeff Kreines
Kinetta
j...@kinetta.com
kinetta.com


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Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Mark Street]

Hi Roger,
Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76?  Am about
to jump in as soon as it gets dark here in Brooklyn tonight, and I bought
Dektol

all the best,
Mark Street
www.markstreetfilms.com

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson 
wrote:

> This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog.
>
>  Hand Processing 16mm black and white film
> Materials for processing film as negative:
>
> Kodak D-76 Developer (powder)
> Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to
> tint and tone film)
> 2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers
> 1 Flat-top thermometer
> 1 Measuring graduate
> 4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot)
> 1 Funnel
> 1 Pair rubber gloves
> 1 Face mask
> 1 Pair scissors
> 1 Length of string and clothes pegs
> 1 Pair goggles
> 1 Photographers loupe
> 1 Watch that glows in the dark
>
>
> You should process film in a room that has running water. The room should
> also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to process the
> film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best and most
> have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it with
> black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in.
> Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the
> darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark
> enough.
>
> Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use
> goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room.
>
> Step by Step Instructions
>
> To develop film as negative:
>
> 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store
> chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers
> with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’
> of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer
> so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals.
>
> 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the chemicals
> to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to process film.
> Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between 20 and 24
> degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the develop
> time.
>
> 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the
> first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with
> water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail
> with water.
>
> 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks
> before processing film.
>
> 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film out
> of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to
> process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be
> (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be
> processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it
> when you turn the lights back on.
>
> 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 developer,
> continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually process black
> and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend doing your
> own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your film in
> camera.
>
> 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water
> and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes.
>
> 8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer.
> Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes.
>
> 9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final
> water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse
> the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times.
>
> 10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry.
>
> 11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto
> spool/core.
>
> 12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer
>
> Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring
> entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a
> minute.
>
> Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so that
> my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each
> full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of
> film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do
> this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on
> how fast you turn handle.
>
> Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass would
> be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should
> take about a minute.
>
> Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix left
> on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with 

Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Mark Street]

Thanks so much, Roger.  This is excellent.

all the best,
Mark Street

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson 
wrote:

>  This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog.
>
>   Hand Processing 16mm black and white film
> Materials for processing film as negative:
>
>  Kodak D-76 Developer (powder)
> Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to
> tint and tone film)
> 2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers
> 1 Flat-top thermometer
> 1 Measuring graduate
> 4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot)
> 1 Funnel
> 1 Pair rubber gloves
> 1 Face mask
> 1 Pair scissors
> 1 Length of string and clothes pegs
> 1 Pair goggles
> 1 Photographers loupe
> 1 Watch that glows in the dark
>
>
>  You should process film in a room that has running water. The room
> should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to
> process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work
> best and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can
> cover it with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from
> leaking in. Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust
> to the darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark
> enough.
>
>  Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use
> goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room.
>
>  Step by Step Instructions
>
>  To develop film as negative:
>
>  1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store
> chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers
> with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’
> of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer
> so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals.
>
>  2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the
> chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to
> process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is
> between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the
> shorter the develop time.
>
>  3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the
> first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with
> water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail
> with water.
>
>  4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks
> before processing film.
>
>  5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film
> out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to
> process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be
> (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be
> processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it
> when you turn the lights back on.
>
>  6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76
> developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually
> process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I
> recommend doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you
> expose your film in camera.
>
>  7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water
> and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes.
>
>  8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer.
> Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes.
>
>  9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final
> water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse
> the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times.
>
>  10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry.
>
>  11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto
> spool/core.
>
>  12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer
>
>  Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring
> entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a
> minute.
>
>  Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so
> that my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between
> each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll
> of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do
> this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on
> how fast you turn handle.
>
>  Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass
> would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass
> should take about a minute.
>
>  Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix
> left on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with fresh
> water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring
> the entire roll of film from one reel to the

Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Roger D. Wilson]

This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog.
 Hand Processing 16mm black and white filmMaterials for processing film as 
negative:
Kodak D-76 Developer (powder)Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in 
hardener if you plan to tint and tone film)2 - 4 litre photographic chemical 
storage containers1 Flat-top thermometer1 Measuring graduate4 - large 10 litre 
pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot)1 Funnel1 Pair rubber 
gloves1 Face mask1 Pair scissors1 Length of string and clothes pegs1 Pair 
goggles1 Photographers loupe1 Watch that glows in the dark

You should process film in a room that has running water. The room should also 
have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to process the film so 
the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best and most have a 
ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it with black foam 
core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in. Turn lights off 
and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. If you see 
your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough.
Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use goggles, 
rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room.
Step by Step Instructions
To develop film as negative:
1.  Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store chemicals 
in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers with contents 
and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’ of 16 film or after 
it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer so check mixing 
instructions for how long to store chemicals.
2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the chemicals to 
sit until they get to room temperature before I start to process film. Kodak 
recommends processing the film in developer that is between 20 and 24 degrees 
Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the develop time.
3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the first 
pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with water. In 
the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail with water.
4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks before 
processing film.
5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film out of 
its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to process. The 
less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be (less scratches and 
unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be processing back into film 
can and secure it so light does not expose it when you turn the lights back on.
6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 developer, 
continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually process black and 
white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend doing your own 
tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your film in camera.
7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water and 
rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes.
8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer. Agitate 
the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes.
9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final water 
rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse the film 
for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times.
10.  After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry.
11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto 
spool/core.
12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer
Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring entire 
roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a minute.
Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so that my 
chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between each full 
cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of film from 
one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this three 
times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how fast you turn 
handle.
Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass would be 
transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take 
about a minute.
Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix left on 
film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with fresh water between 
each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll of 
film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do this 
eight times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how fast 
you turn handle.

Sent from Outlook




On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 12:59 PM -0700, "Mark Street"  
wrote:
ooops forgot to change the subject heading on this

Hey Party Animals,
I plan on processing 

[Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like a savage

[Mark Street]

ooops forgot to change the subject heading on this

Hey Party Animals,
I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a bucket in
my basement next week.  Haven't done this in years.  Can someone point me
to a fairly current guide to how to do so?  Of course, I realize it'll be
mostly trial and mostly error But a start (chemistry, times etc etc)
would be appreciated.

all the best,

Mark Street
*www.markstreetfilms.com *

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Mark Street  wrote:

> Hey Party Animal,
> I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a bucket in
> my basement next week.  Haven't done this in years.  Can someone point me
> to a fairly current guide to how to do so?  Of course, I realize it'll be
> mostly trial and mostly error But a start (chemistry, times etc etc)
> would be appreciated.
>
> all the best,
>
> Mark Street
> *www.markstreetfilms.com *
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Michael Betancourt <
> hinterland.mov...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a piece on Joshua Gen Solondz's flicker film *Prisoner's Cinema*
>> that's up on Bright Lights Film Journal.
>>
>>
>> http://brightlightsfilm.com/technology-and-transcendence-on-joshua-gen-solondzs-prisoners-cinema-2012/#.VbT60vlViko
>>
>> Michael Betancourt
>> Savannah, GA USA
>>
>>
>> michaelbetancourt.com
>> twitter.com/cinegraphic | vimeo.com/cinegraphic
>> www.cinegraphic.net | the avant-garde film & video blog
>>
>> ___
>> FrameWorks mailing list
>> FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com
>> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
>>
>>
>
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