Airport card sporadic cutoff disconnect fix 10.4.3

[Kris Tilford]

I have a couple iBooks that developed bad Airport connections  
recently. They sporadically would go "off" and not find any networks,  
and then just come back "on" full strength for no apparent reason. It  
appears the cause is that I mistakenly installed the Airport Update  
2005-001 which was meant for Airport Extreme 802.11g cards only, and  
not for regular Airport 802.11b cards. It appears I may have solved  
this issue by uninstalling the Airport Update 2005-001 using OS X  
Package Manager (OSXPM) available as freeware here:

http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/14368
For a longer explanation, see this MacOSXHints forums posting:
http://forums.macosxhints.com/showthread.php?t=48498

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Re: Loading 10.2 on Wallstreet II 512m

[Kris Tilford]

shawn wrote:



I can get to the point where it is loading the final stages of disc 1
and my screen goes buggy and does not allow me to continue



I believe this video issue is discussed at length on the XPostFacto  
forums:

http://forum.macsales.com/

There is an option in the XPostFacto Options menu for using "patched  
Rage NDRV" which I believe addresses this issue?


Good luck! Kris

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Re: Security Updates/Airport connection

[Kris Tilford]

My iBook lost the ability to connect via Airport card at all. When  
Airport was turned ON in the menubar it found no networks at all,  
just as if the card was broken. The "solution" I've found was to  
download KisMac and then use the KisMac "active" Airport driver, in  
teh KisMac preferences I believe. Then scan for networks, and when  
the network is found, press the "join network". You can now quit  
KisMac and your normal Airport menubar should now show the network  
and signal strength again, and be connected normally. If it drops  
again, launch KisMac and reconnect the same way. A slight pain, but  
not more then 30 seconds or so to connect. Here's a link to the  
KisMac download:

http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/17199

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Re: downloading Windows media player for OS X Tiger to listen to Internet radio program

[Kris Tilford]

I ran into this problem the other day when trying to fix a PC using  
downloads from the Microsoft site to my Mac. I turns out the MS site  
will only download correctly to MS Explorer browsers on any platform,  
so you'll need to fire up Explorer and re-download. I don't know if  
you follow any of this, but evidently both MS & Intel write code to  
make their servers work slower and less reliably with other  
manufacturer's hardware. This is one of the main contentions in the  
AMD-Intel lawsuit that's ongoing.


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Re: DVD refusal.

[Kris Tilford]

Andre Balogh wrote:

My 17"ALPB running OS X 10.4.1 does not accept DV+R's. When I slip  
them in the machine I hear some action but at the end the blank DVD  
is spit out. It plays however recorded DVD+R's. What's going on ?




I burned a DVD+R for a friend with a 12" ALPB and it wasn't  
recognized at all in 10.3.9 or 10.4.1. Neither was a blank. I'm  
reburning the DVD+R to a DVD-R that he supplied, we'll see of that  
works? Another friend with an older TiPB couldn't recognize any of  
four different brands of blank CD-R's I owned, so evidently these  
PB's are either broken or very finicky. With desktop drives &  
firewire external drives there are often firmware updates to add  
support for more or newer media types. Perhaps these PB drives could  
be "upgraded" using some non-Apple firmware and then patched with  
PatchBurn to reestablish Apple burn support? Big risk and hassle I'd  
think, but so is the unreadable CD or DVD.


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Re: DVD.app error

[Kris Tilford]

Rad Craig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:

I have installed tiger on a Lombard via doing the install on its hd
in my Pismo.  I just tried to load the DVD.app and it comes up with
the following error:

There was an initialization error
The current machine or system configuration is not supported.
[-70013]

There is only an OK button, when I click it, the app closes, even
though it never really opened.

Anyone know how I can fix this?


If this is DVD Player you are talking about there is a patch  
available here that will enable it:


http://xvi.rpc1.org/playerpatch.html



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Re: Auto adapter revised

[Kris Tilford]

I think the laptop auto adapters are too expensive. It's much cheaper 
to buy a small 120v AC inverter than fits your lighter plug that's 
larger wattage than your regular wall charger and then use your regular 
charger in the car. Sam's Club has 70-watt inverters for $13.24 each. 
You can also use other AC devices such as mobile phone chargers or GPS 
or iPod, etc.
See: http://tinyurl.com/8onkt

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Dead (ish) Wallstreet help ?

[Kris Tilford]

I've got a Wallstreet given to me that is somewhat dead. It was working 
normally and then one day refused to startup. The power key alone won't 
start it. The reset keys combination Shift-Fn-Ctl-Power will get the 
green light and fan going, but there is no sign of life in the LCD and 
no noise from the HD. The reset keys combo will also shutdown, so 
basically the thing is dead except the reset keys combo will toggle on 
the light & fan. Any ideas?

Since I've got nothing invested I'm game for some inexpensive parts, I 
was thinking about the PMU or the CPU card for starters. I've removed 
the HD and tested it as good. I've also removed RAM and tested with 
known good RAM with no effect. Help. Thanks! Kris

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Partition schemes

[Kris Tilford]

My brother has a clamshell 366 iBook with a 60 GB 4,200 RPM HD now as a 
single partition with 10.3.9 & 9.2.2.

He rarely uses 9.2.2, but does still use it regularly, so it can't be 
OS X only.

He recently has tried to play so video's (DVD or MOV format) and has a 
slight stuttering which may be the slow CPU or HD?

I will be upgrading his System soon and I'm thinking about partition 
schemes.

I thought a small 2 GB for OS 9.2.2, then a large 48 GB for OS X, and 
then a 5 GB for video or scratch disk.

The questions are:
If the final 5 GB partition is on the outer sectors will these have 
faster access than inner sectors?

Could I striped RAID the 48 GB by making two 24 GB and use Disk Utility 
RAID to get faster access? I've never heard of RAID on a single HD, 
will this work and actually gain speed? Perhaps I should do the whole 
drive this way if it is faster.

Thanks! Kris
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Re: scanner woes/suggestions?

[Kris Tilford]

[EMAIL PROTECTED]posted:

I have a similar Microtek horror story. In fact, I was so displeased 
with the
'support' that I eventually got dramatic. For years I've joked with my 
A+
certification class that the ultimate solution for a wonky PC is to 
throw it
out the third floor window. So I did
I was the recipient of a Microtek scanner that was similarly abused. It 
was nearly $200 new, and never made a single scan AFAIK. The owner in a 
fit of rage completely destroyed it within 24 hours of purchase. I read 
that Canon Lido scanners are the best for OS X, but I don't have any 
hands-on experience.

Meanwhile our tech specialist, who generally ticks me off with her
cluelessness, bought a boatload of HP 3970 scanners. The darn thing 
just
works. I hate HP drivers, I no longer trust HP printers, 'HP support' 
has
become an oxymoron.
Yep, I too think HP has dropped off the edge of the earth. Sony is a 
close 2nd. Two old-school companies that have lost touch with their 
customers. Sad.

But this scanner just plugs along doing what I ask it to
do. Bought one for home and it has performed just as flawlessly.
The current is running the opposite direction, you just found an eddy.
Good luck! Kris
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Re: Power Inverters

[Kris Tilford]

Andrew F. wrote:
For the same price, its much safer to get an auto adapter for your 
laptop.
Why is it "safer" ?
Where do you get a 70w auto adapter for an iBook for $15?
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Re: Can you do the same with usb2? [WAS: Use External FW drive as backup boot drive for Powerbook?]

[Kris Tilford]

I was wondering if you can boot off of an external USB2 hard drive.  - 
Rudi
My understanding is that since USB isn't shown in the device tree it 
can't be booted in a normal way. You can select it in Startup Disk but 
it won't boot. I believe some type of hack could be written to allow 
USB booting, but none are available AFAIK.

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Re: Muffin Cup

[Kris Tilford]

I really liked that color code/muffin cup idea for
keeping track of screws when taking an ibook apart.  I
recently took all the lower dash panels off my car to
wire it for an amp, and I had three screws left over
when the project was done.
Thanks!
The really neat part is that if you walk away and leave it disassembled 
for a long time you don't even need to remember where anything goes, 
it's simply is obvious. Red-to-red & blue-to-blue, etc. I actually use 
fluorescent Marks-A-Lot that are very transparent on metal & plastic, 
more like a permanent highlighter. Opaque markers are fine also since 
no one sees these screws, but non-permanent markers wipe off metal too 
easily I think. I'd hate having a leftover screw. Anyone who has 
disassembled an Apple Pro USB keyboard knows about screws, probably 10x 
the complexity of a laptop. Not for the faint hearted without a system.
Kris

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Re: Ugrading Hard Disk

[Kris Tilford]

On Jan 5, 2005, at 3:29 AM, goodidea wrote:
I would like to upgrade the hard disk on my keylime clamshell, G3 
466mhz model.
 This is a tricky operation and any advise is welcome from someone 
who has done this before. First question I have is: where do I find a 
40Gb disk and which one should I get?
 thanks, Boudie

Bruce Johnson wrote:

 Just did this operation on a tangerine one. I found the instructions 
at  to be invaluable.
This site IS invaluable, simply for the location of the plastic tabs, 
etc. I think I used an old credit card to slide and 'pop' the plastic 
without breaking anything.

There are a LOT, repeat LOT of screws to remove, and definite 
order to replacement.
I have a method that really helps me. I get a bunch of different 
colored permanent markers, and then when I remove a screw, I color both 
the top of the screw and the hole it came from with a color and drop it 
in a muffin pan cup. With each screw, I carefully compare it to what 
I've already removed before, and if it matches one I've already 
removed, I use the identical color and drop it in the same cup, but if 
it's different, I choose a new color and new muffin cup. I don't color 
the exterior screws that are visible, only the interior ones. It takes 
a little while, but when you're done you'll see there are only about 6 
or 7 different screws total. Reassembly is super easy, just match the 
colors and screw. It goes very fast, and any hole that's missing a 
screw is easy to see. You never replace the wrong screw in the wrong 
hole.

Simple instructions: Place iBook in front of you. Remove everything 
that isn't a hard drive. Place new HDD on table in front of you. 
Re-assemble iBook around drive. :-) Sort of like replacing the PRAM 
battery in a 540...
I did a 520c PRAM battery by using a dremel to enlarge the holder area 
a little and then used standard RadioShack thicker & larger batteries 
(same voltage) that should have at least twice the life of the 
originals, plus only cost $3 for two! It was such a hassle I definitely 
wasn't going to spend a fortune on the real battery or EVER do it 
again. It's been two years and still going.

On the iBook HD subject, any ATA will be OK. I got a standard 4,200 RPM 
60 GB for $84 shipped from www.pcmicrostore.com, but I think they're a 
little more now? There are 5,400 RPM and even 7,200 RPM drives that are 
more expensive and proportionally quicker. They have a 40 GB 5,400 for 
$89 and a 60 GB for $115.

Good luck! Kris
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