Re: Oh, that nasty cigarette goo!
On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 2:37 AM, jonas ulrich wrote: > I haven't really had to deal with computers that have been used in a > smokers home. You say that goo builds up??? HOW??? just from the smoke or > what? I might suggest maybe using rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush... i > would just replace fans and stuff though... -Jonas > > > Alcohol will work but the contact cleaner works easier and faster. As described in the method I posted. Cooling fans bring in the smoky air. Thermal cycling from hot to cold and dead air on shutdown seem to work together to let the residue be drawn into the finest spaces. Even slots with cards in them. Further thermal cycling can make it so the the goo interferes with contact in card slots and connectors both. i have witnessed this many times. Bad enough the dust and other particles in non smokers homes. Smoking around computers guarantees dirty contacts at some point. It may even contribute to early CPU failure due to excess heat. Fans and power supplies are also vulnerable. Fans constantly breath dust and lint anyway, the guk acts as a glue that added to the hair and lint can stop a fan dead. Cat hair is also many times a factor also. I have seen a few from smokers homes like this. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Trouble with Bondi again.
On Mar 15, 2009, at 1:04 AM, Cyrus Griffin wrote: > Hmm. I did notice that the problem started after I upgraded from > 10.2.4 to 10.2.8. I know the beige G3's had this problem also, on mine > that fix has worked very well (No black screens in about a year or so) > I'm going to try that right now. Good. > PS. I also checked MacTracker, and it says the Rev. A G3 iMacs only > accept 256Mb of ram... I was about to buy two 256 ones from someone on > the LEM swap, but should I just get two 128's? I am pretty sure I have > a Rev. A iMac, since on the motherboard it doesn't say the revision. This isn't correct, they can accept 512MB also, in PC66, PC100 or PC133 SoDimm. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
Hi Peter... On Mar 14, 2009, at 2:42 PM, PeterH wrote: > With over-application of Arctic Silver, for example, to a G4, there > are power decoupling lines on the surface of the chip which can be > shorted-out by such oozing. > > The "washer" which Apple generally applies to its processors can > limit the intrusion of the conductive paste to those lines. > > However, over-application will usually get underneath the "washer" > and be resistant to attempts to remove it. > > If you over-apply Arctic Silver, you are asking for trouble. > > If you over-apply silicone thermal "grease", there is no issue except > for the mess. > > Pine-Sol®, applied full-strength, can dissolve most such "greases". > > And, as Pine-Sol is water-soluble, the excess "grease", then in > suspension, will simply, and completely wash-off. I have a CPU (Intel type) with a large heat sink that is firmly stuck to the processor. Any thought on getting the two separated. They should come apart somehow... the CPU is a ZIF and you can't get it back into the socket because of the overhang of the heat sink. Amanda --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
On 15/3/09 09:21, "Amanda Ward" wrote: > I have a CPU (Intel type) with a large heat sink that is firmly stuck > to the processor. > Any thought on getting the two separated. They should come apart > somehow... the CPU is a ZIF and you can't get it back into the socket > because of the overhang of the heat sink. > > Amanda I've removed quite a few glued heatsinks. Firstly I put it in the freezer for an hour or so then I work carefully around the edges of the seal with a thin blade or scalpel (oops another finger gone) until it pops off. If it refuses to budge I put it back in the freezer for another hour and try again - and so onalways works for me... Pete --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: B&W with new Tiger won't recognize keyboards
I know this tune all too well, having just played it recently... I finally disabled the "Keyboard Assistant" that came with Tiger. I got tired of being nagged by the Assistant and I noticed that my keyboard was functioning properly. This is one of those cases where I don't understand what the problem is on Apple's side, but choose to ignore it and go about my business as usual. I might add that this same issue came up on my wife's iMac G5 after doing a low level reset. The G5 did not recognize its own keyboardbut it worked just fine. >tonycd wrote: >> Just installed Tiger on a new blank hard drive in a B&W, then >> transplanted the drive into another B&W. (Long story. You don't wanna >> know.) >> >> The computer booted up perfectly. When the "Initialize Your >> Keyboard" (or whatever the window's called) popped up, though, it >> "doinked" that it didn't acknowledge the key I struck when instructed >> to hit the key to the right of the left-hand Shift key. > >Did you try hitting any other keys. > >Is this USB keyboard a non-Apple keyboard? > >> >> I connected the ADB Mac Extended Keyboard II and its ADB mouse that >> this machine will ultimately be using (without disconnecting the other >> -- duh!). Same thing. Recognized the error, disconnected the USB >> devices, restarted. Same result. >> >> The dialog box always gives the same error message: "You're hitting >> the build-in (sic) keyboard. Use your external keyboard." >> >> This edition of Tiger came on CD's. I ordered it from the Internets. >> The disks say "CPU Drop-In." I'm not aware of ANY recent-vintage Apple >> with a built-in keyboard. What gives? > >Uhm, every laptop has a built-in keyboard... > >For whatever reason it sounds like it thinks you have a laptop, or at >least a laptop keyboard. > >Are you plugging in the USB keyboard to the built in USB ports? > > > > > >-- >Clark Martin >Redwood City, CA, USA >Macintosh / Internet Consulting > >"I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway" > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
jumpers
I have a new hard drive on order. I plan to install it into my B&W and after carbon copy, switch it to the master position. I am presently using a Quantum Fireball as my main drive. Interestingly, the B&W prefers me to set the jumper on CS instead of Master. The new drive is a Seagate Barricuda (3160815A) and should be faster than the Quantum. Question: I want to install the Seagate as a slave until I can do a carbon copy clone. Then I want to use the Seagate as my new Master and the Quantum as a slave. If the Seagate must be set to CS in order to work in my B&W, what should the jumper settings be for the Quantum? When I get the new drive, how do I set it to be the slave to the Quantum? The CS setting is somewhat confusing to me as it is neither Master of Slave. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Oh, that nasty cigarette goo!
On Mar 15, 2009, at 2:37 AM, jonas ulrich wrote: > I haven't really had to deal with computers that have been used in > a smokers home. You say that goo builds up??? HOW??? just from the > smoke or what? I might suggest maybe using rubbing alcohol and a > tooth brush... "rubbing alcohol" === BAD 'Rubbing Alcohol' often has 'Emollients and perfumes', plus who knows what else, added to keep the users skin from being 'dried out'. Now the "91% Isopropyl" is much better, and just a few cents more per bottle at the Drug Store. [WalleyMart, wherever!] Chuck D. > i would just replace fans and stuff though... > -Jonas > > On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 9:50 PM, Kyle Hansen > wrote: > On 3/14/09 6:09 PM, "Wallace Adrian D'Alessio" > Broadcast into the ether: > > I have had this with three old Macs. > > My drill is to get > > My drill is not to buy machines from smokers because the stench > will never be completely removed from said computer. > > Kyle Hansen > -- > This is the way the world ends...not with a bang, but a twitter. > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Keyboard shortcut for ScreenSaver in Leopard?
At 6:11 PM -0700 3/14/2009, Dana Collins wrote: >Just wondering: is there a way to create a keyboard shortcut for your >screen saver to engage (rather than reaching w-a-a-y d-o-w-n and grab >the mouse and move it w-a-a-a-y u-u-p the screen to hit a hot corner)? >I do not see one listed, and to add one for a specific app only brings >up the whole System Preferences panel >(not just "Desktop/Screensaver" - even then I think one would still >have to turn the ss on). hum. I don't see a direct method. FWIW, I have a "Sleep Display" app in my dock and I've assigned a hotkey to run it. I prefer that over the screensaver - it uses 0 cpu whereas the screen savers all use some, which slows down whatever else is running. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: jumpers
On 15/3/09 13:56, "Lawrence David Eden" wrote: > > I have a new hard drive on order. I plan to install it into my B&W > and after carbon copy, switch it to the master position. I am > presently using a Quantum Fireball as my main drive. Interestingly, > the B&W prefers me to set the jumper on CS instead of Master. The > new drive is a Seagate Barricuda (3160815A) and should be faster than > the Quantum. > > Question: > > I want to install the Seagate as a slave until I can do a carbon copy clone. > Then I want to use the Seagate as my new Master and the Quantum as a slave. > If the Seagate must be set to CS in order to work in my B&W, what > should the jumper settings be for the Quantum? > > When I get the new drive, how do I set it to be the slave to the > Quantum? The CS setting is somewhat confusing to me as it is neither > Master of Slave. As I understand it - cs stands for cable select which - in the case of two devices on one ide cable both of which are set to cs - gives 'master' to the device nearest the mobo and slave to the second device. Could be I'm wrong - I haven't googled for it but that's what I always thought. Pete --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: jumpers
Lawrence David Eden wrote: > I have a new hard drive on order. I plan to install it into my B&W > and after carbon copy, switch it to the master position. I am > presently using a Quantum Fireball as my main drive. Interestingly, > the B&W prefers me to set the jumper on CS instead of Master. The > new drive is a Seagate Barricuda (3160815A) and should be faster than > the Quantum. > > Question: > > I want to install the Seagate as a slave until I can do a carbon copy clone. > Then I want to use the Seagate as my new Master and the Quantum as a slave. > If the Seagate must be set to CS in order to work in my B&W, what > should the jumper settings be for the Quantum? > > When I get the new drive, how do I set it to be the slave to the > Quantum? The CS setting is somewhat confusing to me as it is neither > Master of Slave. > CS stand for (among other thing), cable select. set the new drive to the cable select setting. Install it on the cable on the other connector besides the fireball. The drive controller will see the new drive as the slave drive. Once you carbon copy it. move it to the cable connector formerly used by the fireball. In cable select, it is the position of the drive on the cable which determines master or slave. Peace, Dennis --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: jumpers
On Mar 15, 2009, at 6:56 AM, Lawrence David Eden wrote: > I want to install the Seagate as a slave until I can do a carbon > copy clone. > Then I want to use the Seagate as my new Master and the Quantum as > a slave. > If the Seagate must be set to CS in order to work in my B&W, what > should the jumper settings be for the Quantum? > The B&W and all later HD (and optical/Zip) cables are set up for CS, but these do not use it explicitly except during the initial "roll call" function of POST. This is related to a Compaq/HP patent for CS whereby the device characteristics of the attached drives may be more easily determined, and the motherboard chip thereby may be more easily set as to speed, etcetera. This procedure requires a cable which is set up for CS so that the host adapter may determine if a 40-wire/40-pin cable is attached, or if an 80-wire/40-pin cable is attached, and if the latter, then the speed of each drive may be interrogated by sending a special reset sequence to each of the attached drives. > When I get the new drive, how do I set it to be the slave to the > Quantum? The CS setting is somewhat confusing to me as it is neither > Master of Slave. Thereafter (after "roll call" is complete) the Mac uses master and slave. By convention, the optical drive is always master and the Zip, or a hard drive which is installed in place of the Zip, is always slave. Also by convention, the lower drive of the two-drive carrier is always master (although it need not be, if a second drive is also present) while the upper drive of the carrier is slave. On the two-drive carrier and the HD bus, you may freely interchange master and slave as long as two drives are always present. Typically, I initialize new HDs in the Zip bay of the optical bus (I have NO Zips on any of my machines). Therefore, this HD is always slave. After testing is complete, I may then move it to the two-drive carrier, also as slave, but I could just as easily move it to the two- high carrier as master, retaining the slave which may already be there. (This allows for a lot of flexibility when CCC-ing backup or duplicate drives.) Most of my remaining G4s ... and I have about a half-dozen of them ... use a 160 GB master and a 500 GB slave, on the two-high carrier. The 160 GB drive has 10.3.9, 10.3.9 Server. 10.4.11 and 10.5.6 in the under 131,072 MB area, with about 25 GB left over as "scratch" (usually used for temporary storage for Toast). The 500 GB drive is a pure data drive and is generally partitioned as 131,072 MB and about 338 GB. With the availability of the LBA48 Property script for all G4s (and possibly for the B&W and Yikes! as well) I could operate the drives without the hard 131,072 partitioning, but old habits die hard. Incidentally, I just yesterday acquired a QS 2001 to which had been applied a firmware update which gave that machine permanent large drive capability without using the LBA48 Property scripts. I tested this fact by executing a reset-nvram in O.F., and after the reboot the 200 GB drive was still seen as 200 GB and not as 128 GB. For non-QS machines, the LBA48 Property scripts remain an option. http://groups.google.com/group/hq-a <+> A home for the Hackintosh community. To subscribe to the HQ-A group, send email to hq-a +subscr...@googlegroups.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Best G4 powermac??
On Mar 14, 2009, at 9:17 PM, Paul wrote: > >> 1) Dual 1.0 GHz G4 -- 60 minutes [ 10.4.11, 1.5 GB 133 MHz RAM ] >> >> 2) Core 2 Duo E8400 running at 3.6 GHz -- 12.5 minutes (4.8 times as >> fast) [ 10.5.5, 2 GB 800 MHz RAM ] >> >> 3) Core 2 Quad Q9400 running at 3.2 GHz -- 10 minutes ( 6 times as >> fast) [ 10.5.6, 2 GB 800 MHz RAM ] > > > How would a low-to-medium grade G5 compare? I have no G5s, so no data to compare. Given that those Intels were completed for a few hundred $$$ each, the price/performance of those Intels would far exceed the price/ performance of a G5, even on the off-hand chance that the G5 could turn in "wall-clock" numbers which exceeded those Intels (unlikely, but possible, I guess). --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Trouble with Bondi again.
Ok, then I think I'll go for it. The Mactracker info is somewhat confusing. Thanks! PS. The black screen fix worked great, I don't know why I didn't connect that! I guess since it looks so much different then the Biege G3s... but hardware-wise it's very similar. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! -Cyrus On Mar 15, 2009, at 12:18 AM, Kris Tilford wrote: > > > On Mar 15, 2009, at 1:04 AM, Cyrus Griffin wrote: > >> Hmm. I did notice that the problem started after I upgraded from >> 10.2.4 to 10.2.8. I know the beige G3's had this problem also, on >> mine >> that fix has worked very well (No black screens in about a year or >> so) >> I'm going to try that right now. > > Good. > >> PS. I also checked MacTracker, and it says the Rev. A G3 iMacs only >> accept 256Mb of ram... I was about to buy two 256 ones from someone >> on >> the LEM swap, but should I just get two 128's? I am pretty sure I >> have >> a Rev. A iMac, since on the motherboard it doesn't say the revision. > > This isn't correct, they can accept 512MB also, in PC66, PC100 or > PC133 SoDimm. > > > > > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Oh, that nasty cigarette goo!
I would reinforce this statement that in the arena of semi-conductor equipment manufacturing, IPA is the ONLY liquid allowed in a clean room environment. Not only is it used for cleaning components but also as a lubricant for assembly of difficult metals such as stainless to stainless fasteners. JT Charles Davis wrote: > > On Mar 15, 2009, at 2:37 AM, jonas ulrich wrote: > > >>I haven't really had to deal with computers that have been used in >>a smokers home. You say that goo builds up??? HOW??? just from the >>smoke or what? I might suggest maybe using rubbing alcohol and a >>tooth brush... > > > "rubbing alcohol" === BAD 'Rubbing Alcohol' often has 'Emollients > and perfumes', plus who knows what else, added to keep the users skin > from being 'dried out'. Now the "91% Isopropyl" is much better, and > just a few cents more per bottle at the Drug Store. [WalleyMart, > wherever!] > > > Chuck D. > > >>i would just replace fans and stuff though... >>-Jonas >> >>On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 9:50 PM, Kyle Hansen >>wrote: >>On 3/14/09 6:09 PM, "Wallace Adrian D'Alessio" >> Broadcast into the ether: >> >>I have had this with three old Macs. >> >>My drill is to get >> >>My drill is not to buy machines from smokers because the stench >>will never be completely removed from said computer. >> >>Kyle Hansen >>-- >>This is the way the world ends...not with a bang, but a twitter. >> >> > > > > > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Oh, that nasty cigarette goo!
ISA = Isopropyl Alcohol? On Mar 15, 2009, at 9:04 AM, James E. Therrault wrote: > Isopropyl --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Oh, that nasty cigarette goo!
I would like to say thanks for all the input here, It's really helped me make an informed decision on how or "if" I am going to tackle these jobs when I come to them. Again, thanks! Jeff On Mar 15, 2009, at 9:04 AM, James E. Therrault wrote: > > I would reinforce this statement that in the arena of semi-conductor > equipment manufacturing, IPA is the ONLY liquid allowed in a clean > room > environment. Not only is it used for cleaning components but also as a > lubricant for assembly of difficult metals such as stainless to > stainless fasteners. > > JT > > > > > Charles Davis wrote: >> >> On Mar 15, 2009, at 2:37 AM, jonas ulrich wrote: >> >> >>> I haven't really had to deal with computers that have been used in >>> a smokers home. You say that goo builds up??? HOW??? just from the >>> smoke or what? I might suggest maybe using rubbing alcohol and a >>> tooth brush... >> >> >> "rubbing alcohol" === BAD 'Rubbing Alcohol' often has 'Emollients >> and perfumes', plus who knows what else, added to keep the users skin >> from being 'dried out'. Now the "91% Isopropyl" is much better, and >> just a few cents more per bottle at the Drug Store. [WalleyMart, >> wherever!] >> >> >> Chuck D. >> >> >>> i would just replace fans and stuff though... >>> -Jonas >>> >>> On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 9:50 PM, Kyle Hansen >>> wrote: >>> On 3/14/09 6:09 PM, "Wallace Adrian D'Alessio" >>> Broadcast into the ether: >>> >>> I have had this with three old Macs. >>> >>> My drill is to get >>> >>> My drill is not to buy machines from smokers because the stench >>> will never be completely removed from said computer. >>> >>> Kyle Hansen >>> -- >>> This is the way the world ends...not with a bang, but a twitter. >>> >>> >> >> >> >>> >> > > > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G3 stalls on boot-up
Your iMac should run Panther just fine (if it has the firmware update) If not, make sure it has a VGA port on the back. (I have more info if you're confused about that, we installed 10.4 onto a 400Mhz "Blueberry iMac, and killed the video; since it didn't have an external VGA port, we had to get a new motherboard) I would just try reinstalling 10.3 (Panther). What OS do you currently have on it? It might not be able to run OS 8.6 if it's a Graphite/Snow/Sage/Ruby model. You can initialize and format a HD from the OSX installer, or run Disk Utility. Same with OS 8.6, if I'm not mistaken. You also might try reseting the Pram, by holding Option + Apple + R + P while you start it up, and wait for about 4 or 5 chimes, then let go. Hope that helps, -Cyrus On Mar 14, 2009, at 7:27 PM, old newbie wrote: > > My 400Mhz G3 won't complete its boot. It seems to be going through > the process, albeit slowly, but then stops, with a message at the top > of the screen, which still has only the Apple logo, which says > something like, "half duplex disabled", and the system stops. > I acquired a couple of G3 boxes, neither of which has a hard drive, > but with assurances that the mainboards were functional. After > installing one of these in my original box, the bootup proceeded > exactly the same, including the message when it stopped. > My thought now is that the hard drive is corrupted or has gone south > completely. Is there a way to determine which has occurred, or would > it be better to just replace the drive and start over? If that is the > case, how do I go about that? I have OS 8.6 and Panther available, > but do I need more, like something to format or otherwise enable the > hard disk? > As you can tell, I am not at all familiar with the Mac system > requirements. > Any advice is welcome. I really don't want to give up on this, as it > has become a challenge of wits, in which I am obviously at a severe > disadvantage, but I'd like to pull a Forrest on this and make it go > somehow. > > Barrie > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
On Mar 14, 2009, at 10:44 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: > > CPUs and heat sinks never move, they simply need a thermally > conductive join. > > And yeah, that '34 would be worth a whole boatload of money > today...:-) > > > -- > Bruce Johnson > U of Az College of Pharmacy > Information Technology Group > Institutions don't have opinions, merely customs > > At last, a voice of reason and acuity in this exercise in tedium. Also I take issue with this statement "the exhaust manifold comes off the sides of the engine, not down the middle..." Never saw an engine (V8) with the exhaust down the middle. John Callahan jcalla...@stny.rr.com If there are no dogs in Heaven, when I die I want to go where they went.¨ --Will Rogers extreme positive = (ybya2) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
Hey John... On Mar 15, 2009, at 9:17 AM, John Callahan wrote: > At last, a voice of reason and acuity in this exercise in tedium. > Also I take issue with this statement "the exhaust manifold comes off > the sides of the engine, not down the middle..." Never saw an engine > (V8) with the exhaust down the middle. > John Callahan Never saw a Chevrolet engine like that. Ford had an aluminum block, 255 four cam racing engine with the exhaust ports facing the middle of the engine. 'Tis a rare bird and not very many ever saw street use. I saw one at a car show in Chicago many years ago. Darned if I figure a way to work G-Processors or thermal grease into this observation... sorry nannys! ;-) Amanda --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: B&W with new Tiger won't recognize keyboards
How did you disable it, Lawrence? On Mar 15, 8:44 am, Lawrence David Eden wrote: > I know this tune all too well, having just played it recently... > > I finally disabled the "Keyboard Assistant" that came with Tiger. I > got tired of being nagged by the Assistant and I noticed that my > keyboard was functioning properly. This is one of those cases where > I don't understand what the problem is on Apple's side, but choose to > ignore it and go about my business as usual. > I might add that this same issue came up on my wife's iMac G5 after > doing a low level reset. The G5 did not recognize its own > keyboardbut it worked just fine. > > >tonycd wrote: > >> Just installed Tiger on a new blank hard drive in a B&W, then > >> transplanted the drive into another B&W. (Long story. You don't wanna > >> know.) > > >> The computer booted up perfectly. When the "Initialize Your > >> Keyboard" (or whatever the window's called) popped up, though, it > >> "doinked" that it didn't acknowledge the key I struck when instructed > >> to hit the key to the right of the left-hand Shift key. > > >Did you try hitting any other keys. > > >Is this USB keyboard a non-Apple keyboard? > > >> I connected the ADB Mac Extended Keyboard II and its ADB mouse that > >> this machine will ultimately be using (without disconnecting the other > >> -- duh!). Same thing. Recognized the error, disconnected the USB > >> devices, restarted. Same result. > > >> The dialog box always gives the same error message: "You're hitting > >> the build-in (sic) keyboard. Use your external keyboard." > > >> This edition of Tiger came on CD's. I ordered it from the Internets. > >> The disks say "CPU Drop-In." I'm not aware of ANY recent-vintage Apple > >> with a built-in keyboard. What gives? > > >Uhm, every laptop has a built-in keyboard... > > >For whatever reason it sounds like it thinks you have a laptop, or at > >least a laptop keyboard. > > >Are you plugging in the USB keyboard to the built in USB ports? > > >-- > >Clark Martin > >Redwood City, CA, USA > >Macintosh / Internet Consulting > > >"I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway" --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
PETE!!! On Mar 15, 2009, at 3:08 AM, pdimage wrote: > > On 15/3/09 09:21, "Amanda Ward" wrote: > >> I have a CPU (Intel type) with a large heat sink that is firmly stuck >> to the processor. >> Any thought on getting the two separated. They should come apart >> somehow... the CPU is a ZIF and you can't get it back into the socket >> because of the overhang of the heat sink. >> >> Amanda > >I've removed quite a few glued heatsinks. Firstly I put it in the > freezer for an hour or so then I work carefully around the edges of > the seal > with a thin blade or scalpel (oops another finger gone) until it > pops off. > If it refuses to budge I put it back in the freezer for another hour > and try > again - and so onalways works for me... > > Pete Yer awesome! A few hours in the fridge (got busy with housework don'tcha know) and they popped apart with a few pokes of the razor knife. I wouldn't make such a fuss... it's a wintel box, but it is a P4-2.4 GHz and not too much of a slouch. ;-) Many thanks, Amanda --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Oh, that nasty cigarette goo!
On 3/14/09 11:37 PM, "jonas ulrich" Broadcast into the ether: > I haven't really had to deal with computers that have been used in a smokers > home. You say that goo builds up??? HOW??? just from the smoke or what? I > might suggest maybe using rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush... i would just > replace fans and stuff though... Cigarettes have all kinds of chemicals that, when a user smokes near a computer, gets insides and coats all the innards with goo. This has 2 effects. The first being the horrible sticky stinky goo that can be smelled from 10 feet away. The 2nd is that it coats all the internal components and gums up fans etc. I have some horror story pics of cat owners that smoked but don¹t get me started. The end result is that a coating of goo on all the components is bad. It acts as an insulator and causes capacitors (and other components) to heat up faster (and remain hotter) and causes the machines to have a shorter life span. Imagine wearing a parka in summer. Kyle Hansen -- This is the way the world ends...not with a bang, but a twitter. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: jumpers
1- Assuming that what you say is correct - I. E. you must install the jumper to a CS setting then why not try removing your master HD, change the jumper to a CS setting, jumper your new HD to master and reinstall both in the proper position on the flat cable. or 2- Assume that you can use the master/slave setup with your jumpers, then remove the master, set the jumper (or remove the jumper) to convert the HD to slave, set the jumper on the new HD to master, and reinstall both in the proper position on the flat cable. For either setting, when you boot up, hold down the option key and when the arrow comes up select the HD that has OS X installed and click on the arrow to boot from that drive. Then use disk utility to check both HDs and correct permissions on the HD that was your master. After that process, employ CCC to do a back up on the new drive. Upon completion, do a restart boot, hold down ht eoption key and dselect the new drive whch should be your master. If you you boot up successfuly then go to Systems Preferences and select that HD as your boot drive. I hope that works for you. Mel --- On Sun, 3/15/09, Lawrence David Eden wrote: From: Lawrence David Eden Subject: jumpers To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Date: Sunday, March 15, 2009, 6:56 AM I have a new hard drive on order. I plan to install it into my B&W and after carbon copy, switch it to the master position. I am presently using a Quantum Fireball as my main drive. Interestingly, the B&W prefers me to set the jumper on CS instead of Master. The new drive is a Seagate Barricuda (3160815A) and should be faster than the Quantum. Question: I want to install the Seagate as a slave until I can do a carbon copy clone. Then I want to use the Seagate as my new Master and the Quantum as a slave. If the Seagate must be set to CS in order to work in my B&W, what should the jumper settings be for the Quantum? When I get the new drive, how do I set it to be the slave to the Quantum? The CS setting is somewhat confusing to me as it is neither Master of Slave. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
iCal 3.0.6 - 2 Home calendars
Somehow iCal 3.0.6/10.5.6 has created a second Home calendar which may be causing my current problem of January 2009 in month view being filled with items from multiple months' events. Clicking each Home calendar on/off (in an attempt to find which one I could try to delete) is causing the other calendars to react, either disappearing events from those calendars or reordering the order of multiple events on the same day. Since I'm not wanting to lose my calendars, I'm looking for suggestions on how to fix the 2-Home calendars that are affecting the entire calendar. Thanks Steve R --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
Back on topic... I promise!!! On Mar 15, 2009, at 3:08 AM, pdimage wrote: > > On 15/3/09 09:21, "Amanda Ward" wrote: > >> I have a CPU (Intel type) with a large heat sink that is firmly stuck >> to the processor. >> Any thought on getting the two separated. They should come apart >> somehow... the CPU is a ZIF and you can't get it back into the socket >> because of the overhang of the heat sink. >> >> Amanda > >I've removed quite a few glued heatsinks. Firstly I put it in the > freezer for an hour or so then I work carefully around the edges of > the seal > with a thin blade or scalpel (oops another finger gone) until it > pops off. > If it refuses to budge I put it back in the freezer for another hour > and try > again - and so onalways works for me... I have the aforementioned heat sink and CPU apart. What would be a good thermal compound to reassemble the beast? I do have a dab of Arctic Silver from a former project. Think this would be okee dokee? The chip doesn't seem to have any exposed circuitry... 'cept for the Bazillion pins on the underside. :-) Amanda Remembering my first computer had a 40 pin CPU! Yikes! --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
fans on G5 - off to the races!
I have a dual 2.0 GHz G5. On occasion, all the fans start running full speed. I know that this is a common problem with this particular model, but I've searched all the forums for a fix to no avail. My guess is that the CPU heat sinks are not seated right, maybe the "goo" is dried out, the "thermal grease" thread brought the possibility back to mind. At work, I had a server that was doing the same dance, and reseating the heatsinks on the CPU's fixed it. Does anyone know how the get into the processors on a dual 2.0 GHz G5? For some reason, Apple has apparently removed all the Tech Docs for this particular model from their website. Thanks, Stephen --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: fans on G5 - off to the races!
I do; however it does require some special tools. First, you have to take the cover off, that says G5. There's a little grey post that you have to take out on the top side, next to the video card. After thats out (it does take some doing...) pull the grey plastic piece down that's on the front of the processors. This releases 3 or 4 latches on the top cover, which slides over to the left, and up. You can then take the plastic part from the front off. Next, you need a very, very long allen; I believe it's either a 2 or a 5/64. I have a security set, and an extender that I got at a hardware store. There are two in the front, (one on each) four in the middle (these are hard to get to) and two on the back, one on each. You don't have to take these all the way out, in fact I wouldn't recommend trying. They are wedge shaped and hold the processors in with pressure on the sides, as opposed to conventional methods of applying downwards pressure. Anyways, then you just wiggle them out, and there are some phillips screws to take the actual processors off the heat sync. Also there is probably a second, smaller heat sync attached to the back side, with some metal or plastic clips. It should be obvious how to take it off, as it's attached to the processor itself. I would strongly suggest being grounded while you do this; new processors are VERY, VERY hard to find for dual 2GHz G5's, and may cost you upwards of $800. Hope that helps. -Cyrus On Mar 15, 2009, at 4:17 PM, Stephen E. Bodnar wrote: > > I have a dual 2.0 GHz G5. On occasion, all the fans start running full > speed. I know that this is a common problem with this particular > model, > but I've searched all the forums for a fix to no avail. > > My guess is that the CPU heat sinks are not seated right, maybe the > "goo" is dried out, the "thermal grease" thread brought the > possibility > back to mind. At work, I had a server that was doing the same dance, > and > reseating the heatsinks on the CPU's fixed it. > > Does anyone know how the get into the processors on a dual 2.0 GHz G5? > For some reason, Apple has apparently removed all the Tech Docs for > this > particular model from their website. > > Thanks, > Stephen > > > --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Why are aliases failing?
Why are aliases failing? I have all aliases in the dock. About a month ago, I noticed the windos player with a big question mark on it and it would not load windos player. Again about 2 weeks ago the TextEdit did the same thing. Today the DVD player has done it. What is going on? Sys G4, 10.4.11 nothing added or removed and nothing moved or changed. What a mystery? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: fans on G5 - off to the races!
I've got a dual 2.3 that occasionally goes full fan on. I use MenuMeters and such a full fan on condition is almost always accompanied by full 100% CPU usage on both CPUs. I click on the CPU monitor in the menu bar and select "Open Activity Monitor" which I sort by the CPU usage column descending. The offending process is always at the top in some sort of runaway mode. I highlight the process and "quit" it, and if that doesn't work, "force quit" it, and the fans always stop within just a few seconds. I haven't had this happen much recently, but I've drastically scaled back on using Firefox because it was most often the offending process. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Trouble with Bondi again.
> > > PS. I also checked MacTracker, and it says the Rev. A G3 iMacs only > > accept 256Mb of ram... I was about to buy two 256 ones from someone on > > the LEM swap, but should I just get two 128's? I am pretty sure I have > > a Rev. A iMac, since on the motherboard it doesn't say the revision. > > This isn't correct, they can accept 512MB also, in PC66, PC100 or > PC133 SoDimm. Per LEM (http://lowendmac.com/imacs/rev-b-imac-g3-233-mhz.html): RAM: 32 MB, possibly expandable to 768 MB using two DIMM sockets, uses same SDRAM SO-DIMM as PowerBook G3, top DIMM socket accepts 2" DIMM, bottom socket takes 1.5" DIMM. All tray-loading iMacs work with modules up to 128 MB. Field reports indicate that they will work with 256 MB and 512 MB modules as long as they are "CL2" modules. With a 512 MB module and a low-profile 256 MB module, it's theoretically possible that these iMacs could support 768 MB of RAM. Be careful--not all RAM is the same. V Mabus --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Why are aliases failing?
At 5:04 PM -0700 3/15/2009, Jonas Lopez wrote: >Why are aliases failing? > >I have all aliases in the dock. About a month ago, I noticed the >windos player with a big question mark on it and it would not load >windos player. Again about 2 weeks ago the TextEdit did the same >thing. Today the DVD player has done it. What is going on? > >Sys G4, 10.4.11 nothing added or removed and nothing moved or >changed. What a mystery? Aliases break when the underlying file is removed or damaged. You might want to run a verify disk pass on your HDs with Disk Utility... - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
