Re: Low density or high?
On 8/3/11 03:37, peterh...@cruzio.com peterh...@cruzio.com wrote: I have 3 high density 512mb chips... am I good to go? It's certainly low for the PC100/133 variety for early Sawtooth through Quicksilvers but I'm not sure for the PC2700 varietyI always understood that high density was slower and poorer quality.. http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Myth-Low-Density-vs-High-Density-memory-modules_W 0QQugidZ101236187 Pete -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Low density or high?
I have 3 high density 512mb chips... am I good to go? Try before you buy is the best way. Or ask the seller to confirm they’ll work in your specific model. Actually, I thought all Macs needed low-density RAM -- it seems it gives better performance or reliability -- but if you have those chips already, there’s no harm in putting them in and try it out. Just take care of handling them correctly regarding electrostatics (grounded wrist wrap) but you knew that. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Superdrive woe
Hi I have a 17 powerbook G4 1.5 with the MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-825 superdrive. I am not a frequent burner of dvd/cd's. But I am used to more modern drive which don't fuss over what type of media you use. According to it's specs, it reads dvd full stop and burns - and +. I have had it reading from cd's and dvd's, I have yet to burn from it though. But it will not recognise a particular dual layer dvd+ I have burned. It just spits it out. It also spits out a blank disc of the same kind. I have read elsewhere that apple recommend TDK. Have I read correctly, that these drives are fussy and only like certain brands of disc? Also, should I be ok to read and write to dvd+ dual layers and if so, which work for you best? Thanks! -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Clean My Mac: OnyX not working
At 4:26 PM -0700 3/7/2011, Bruce Johnson wrote: On Mar 7, 2011, at 4:12 PM, Dan wrote: Now I'm trying to figure out how to make him administrator so he has access. Still not a good idea. He needs to logout. Then you login to an administrator account, open System Preferences, Accounts tab, and select his account. Check the box for admin. Then can login again. Actually I'll disagree with Dan here; it works perfectly well to do this while the user is logged in; you have to use the credentials of an current administrator to do so, of course, but once you've done this they can do anything they want. No need to log out or any such stuff...it's not Windows, after all hum. Just tried it in Tiger - no go - had to log out and back in to get the admin to stick. Perhaps this working dynamically is Leo+? - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Superdrive woe
At 4:38 AM -0800 3/8/2011, Jonathan Smith wrote: 17 powerbook G4 1.5 with the MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-825 superdrive. I have had it reading from cd's and dvd's, I have yet to burn from it though. But it will not recognise a particular dual layer dvd+ I have burned. It just spits it out. It also spits out a blank disc of the same kind. Odd. Have you tried cleaning the drive? Check the drive's capabilities in System Profiler. Make sure the OS knows it does DL. I have read elsewhere that apple recommend TDK. Have I read correctly, that these drives are fussy and only like certain brands of disc? Not in my experience. But then I've had many drives (on various machines) reject cheap media. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Superdrive woe
On Mar 8, 2011, at 4:38 AM, Jonathan Smith wrote: Hi I have a 17 powerbook G4 1.5 with the MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-825 superdrive. I am not a frequent burner of dvd/cd's. But I am used to more modern drive which don't fuss over what type of media you use. According to it's specs, it reads dvd full stop and burns - and +. I have had it reading from cd's and dvd's, I have yet to burn from it though. But it will not recognise a particular dual layer dvd+ I have burned. It just spits it out. It also spits out a blank disc of the same kind. I have read elsewhere that apple recommend TDK. Have I read correctly, that these drives are fussy and only like certain brands of disc? Also, should I be ok to read and write to dvd+ dual layers and if so, which work for you best? Thanks! Some times we run across a brand or batch that the optical drive has a hard time with, change brands, I have best luck with HP-R media, except the DL's are +R however burning DL DVD movies are a crap shoot with any brand of media from Phillips to Verbatim even on Pioneer external drives. Trying to burn DL DVD's in a PowerBook is not only slower than the second coming but will probably produce more coasters than good burns. If you must use the PB to burn with I suggest you carry a Firwire external and if burning movies use HP single layer with compression. Been there none all that:-) John Carmonne Yorba Linda CA 92886 USA Sent from my MBP -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Clean My Mac: Non Update :@*
Thanks everyone for all your replies. We've made a To Do List and the first item is backup his whole drive - I will buy him an external on Thursday. So we will be implementing many of your excellent suggestions, just not today :@D We did ask the other two guys what kind of RAM they have on their machines - they each have 4 gigs to my kid's 1 gig. So it would seem that may be the factor. On Mar 8, 2011, at 9:33 AM, Dan wrote: At 4:26 PM -0700 3/7/2011, Bruce Johnson wrote: On Mar 7, 2011, at 4:12 PM, Dan wrote: Now I'm trying to figure out how to make him administrator so he has access. Still not a good idea. He needs to logout. Then you login to an administrator account, open System Preferences, Accounts tab, and select his account. Check the box for admin. Then can login again. Actually I'll disagree with Dan here; it works perfectly well to do this while the user is logged in; you have to use the credentials of an current administrator to do so, of course, but once you've done this they can do anything they want. No need to log out or any such stuff...it's not Windows, after all hum. Just tried it in Tiger - no go - had to log out and back in to get the admin to stick. Perhaps this working dynamically is Leo+? - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list Anne Keller Smith Down to Earth Web Design Intel iMac 2.4gHz Core 2 Duo 1GB RAM, 250GB Hard Drive, OS 10.5.5 Intel iMac 2.66gHz Core 2 Duo 2GB RAM, 264GB Hard Drive, OS 10.5.6 G4 Quicksilver 733mHz Tower 896 MB RAM, 40 GB hard drive, OS 10.4.11 mailto:earth...@ptd.net http://www.downtoearthweb.com -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Clean My Mac: OnyX not working
On Mar 8, 2011, at 7:33 AM, Dan wrote: Actually I'll disagree with Dan here; it works perfectly well to do this while the user is logged in; you have to use the credentials of an current administrator to do so, of course, but once you've done this they can do anything they want. No need to log out or any such stuff...it's not Windows, after all hum. Just tried it in Tiger - no go - had to log out and back in to get the admin to stick. Perhaps this working dynamically is Leo+? Now that I think of it, the user management system was one of the things that changed a lot between 10.4 and 10.5, so it's probable that it works differently. We have very few systems here that run 10.4; every college Mac we're managing is an intel mac which came with 10.5 minimumthey've REALLY taken off here. We've gone from a handful of Mac users in the College to over 100 in just a few years. Certainly the new ones I'm adding to our Windows domain (and having these admin issues with) are all 10.6. I've got one old sawtooth in the back room I can boot up into 10.4 if I want; I've considered trying to get PearPC working in a VM to have a 10.4 system on hand for support and testing issues, but there's so few of them (mostly aging PPC systems in the labs and the occasional student with an aging Powerbook or iBook.) -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Superdrive woe
Thanks peeps. Just realised this is the g-group and not the lappy group. Doh. I haven't cleaned the drive Dan, no. It reads audio CD's flawlessly, so I am confident it's clean. I wouldn't care if they were cheap, but we only stock good quality media. They work just fine on the other drives in the workshop (6). Just thought, I burnt the same image at home on my mid 2010 imac and it failed to complete twice with toast ultimate. I have diagnoses the disc I did today on a pc and it threw back zero errors and it read fine with MacDrive 8. I shall try a different manufacturer. Trouble on two mac, might be a clue! I will try it on my Mac Pro and see what that throws up. cheers -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Superdrive woe
On Mar 8, 2011, at 8:53 AM, Jonathan Smith wrote: Thanks peeps. Just realised this is the g-group and not the lappy group. Doh. I haven't cleaned the drive Dan, no. It reads audio CD's flawlessly, so I am confident it's clean. The read heads for CD's and DVD's are different, it's entirely possible for one to be dirty and another work. It's also possible for the DVD part to die while the CD part still works; the original LG combo drives that came in Pismos were notorious for that. Some batches of disks are just bad, too. I've had to return packages to the store when I got several failures in a row, especially if it's been tried on different computers. Recordable media is a cheap commodity now, and QC has slipped; you cannot pay for a lot of QC when you can't sell the disks for more than a $1 or 50 cents each. Back in the day when CDR's were $10 each; they were tested more rigorously; nowadays you're probably lucky for 5 tested disks per lot, which could be thousands of disks. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: No boot G4 MDD?
On Mar 4, 7:35 pm, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote: I'm dealing with a PM G4 MDD Dual 1.25 it's a solid daily driver. 2 GB RAM 2 HDDs 2 optical drives. The machine stopped booting after the installation of an aftermarket CPU fan, Doesn't make too much sense being the wires are the same. This is overly obvious, but is the new fan turning properly? I've seen machines with cooling issues which would boot only so far and then crash as the CPU reached some temperature point beyond which it could not operate properly. Do you still have the old fan? If so, try swapping it back in and see if the problem remains. Jeff Walther -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: No boot G4 MDD?
On Mar 8, 2011, at 8:58 AM, t...@io.com wrote: On Mar 4, 7:35 pm, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote: I'm dealing with a PM G4 MDD Dual 1.25 it's a solid daily driver. 2 GB RAM 2 HDDs 2 optical drives. The machine stopped booting after the installation of an aftermarket CPU fan, Doesn't make too much sense being the wires are the same. This is overly obvious, but is the new fan turning properly? I've seen machines with cooling issues which would boot only so far and then crash as the CPU reached some temperature point beyond which it could not operate properly. Well in the end the problem turned out to be a burned CPU. So a new one is on the way. JOHN CARMONNE Yorba Linda USA From TiBook 867 -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Superdrive woe
On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:38 AM, Jonathan Smith wrote: I have a 17 powerbook G4 1.5 with the MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-825 superdrive. I am not a frequent burner of dvd/cd's. But I am used to more modern drive which don't fuss over what type of media you use. According to it's specs, it reads dvd full stop and burns - and +. I have had it reading from cd's and dvd's, I have yet to burn from it though. But it will not recognise a particular dual layer dvd+ I have burned. It just spits it out. It also spits out a blank disc of the same kind. I have read elsewhere that apple recommend TDK. Have I read correctly, that these drives are fussy and only like certain brands of disc? Also, should I be ok to read and write to dvd+ dual layers and if so, which work for you best? Don't know about media, the specifications of the UJ-825 say that it can both read write DVD+ dual-layer media, so this appears to be a problem with the drive or the media type, most likely the media I'd guess? With respect to media, there are several different dyes used in different media brands. I've had excellent luck with Verbatim discs that use the darker dye rather than the cheaper discs with the lighter dye. Cheap discs seem to fail at a high rate. One thing to consider, there is supposedly such a thing as a dual-layer rewritable disc which I've never used, but sounds intriguing if you could actually rewrite these up to 1,000 times. I'd be surprised if you could rewrite a single time, but I have very limited experience with rewritable discs, perhaps they work great? I've seen that back in 2007 someone created a patched firmware for this drive that enables RPC1 region-free usage for this drive so that it can play discs from all regions. Normally region-free flashing isn't necessary any longer because VLC can play discs from all regions without flashing, but this particular drive seems to be special and doesn't work region-free with VLC according to information on this page: http://www.pinoymac.org/forum/archive/index.php?t-18462.html Flashing a drive in a Mac may be impossible or difficult. I don't see a Mac flash program, but it may be possible to boot the Mac into Target Disk mode and attach the Mac to a PC via a Firewire cable and then flash the drive from the PC using the Windows flash program (I don't know if it supports Firewire flashing, so this may be a waste of time?). If you can't flash it using a PC with the Mac in Target Disk mode the only alternative would be to remove the drive and place it into a PC which seems too difficult for a laptop. Also, finding the patched firmware may be difficult, and it also my remove the Apple from the identifier, which probably isn't an issue if you're using 10.4.11 or 10.5.8, but may require PatchBurn if you have any lower level OS. Here's a page about the UJ-825 patched firmwware: http://forum.rpc1.org/viewtopic.php?f=30t=43012 -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: audio cards
Hello, What is your budget? What software do you plan to use? Which Mac will you be using? I've been using an M-Audio Audiophile 2496 for several years with absolutely no trouble. They sell for about $100. http://m-audio.com/products/en_us/Audiophile2496.html However, it's A/D signal-to-noise is only about 100 db. Here are the current system requirements: Minimum System Requirements (Mac) G3* 500MHz with OS 9.2.2, 128MB RAM G4* 500MHz with OS X 10.1.5, 10.2.6, 10.3.8, 10.4, 10.5.1 w/ 256MB RAM** OMS 2.3.8 for MIDI under OS 9.2.2 Currently there are two models of Apple’s G5 that are incompatible with this product. Please click this link for more information: http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=support.faqID=b9f145c1c2ef3fd398ae0c17b1a4cb48 * G3/G4 accelerator cards not supported; OS 10.3 required for Dolby Digital and DTS “pass-through” with Apple DVD Player ** Please check the minimum system requirements of your DAW software as they may be higher. *** Intel based Mac Pro DualCore G5 with PCI-Express expansion slots not supported. /// For about twice the money they offer the Audiophile 192, with an A/D S/ N of about 113, but with more demanding system requirements: http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/Audiophile192.html -- Dave Bjur d...@bjurconsulting.com (208) 305-1514 On Mar 6, 12:17 pm, ah...clem boneheads...@gmail.com wrote: i want to convert a large analog audio library to digital format. the analog sources are as clean as analog gets. i want high-end D/A conversion that at the minimum exceeds the quality of the analog source. i have been using macs for work and home for 20+ years, but i've never used one for anything related to audio. consequently i know nothing on the practical side, and i have some basic questions which will no doubt expose the depths of my ignorance. is it better to go with a hardware D/A converter, or are there apps that do i better job? is there a place to compare PCI audio card specs that includes newer and older cards? my minimum requirements are: • LR audio line level input w/ S/N ratio ≥ 120 dB • ≥ 24-bits A/D conversion at ≥ 96k sample rate TIA for the helpful replies. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
spills wireless keyboard
The answer to this question may be obvious to some but it's a mystery to me: I use a wireless keyboard and mouse. If I accidentially dump my coffee on the keyboad is there the same liklihood of shorting out or otherwise damaging the computer as there is with a wired keyboard or is this actually a good way to prevent damage beyond the yeyboard or mouse? Great curiosity. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: spills wireless keyboard
On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 9:57 PM, michaelangelo smit1...@gmail.com wrote: The answer to this question may be obvious to some but it's a mystery to me: I use a wireless keyboard and mouse. If I accidentially dump my coffee on the keyboad is there the same liklihood of shorting out or otherwise damaging the computer as there is with a wired keyboard or is this actually a good way to prevent damage beyond the yeyboard or mouse? Great curiosity. Just lack of function to the KB, Some people recommend putting it through the dishwasher. Yes it is true. Then drying it. -- Adrian D'Alessio aka; Fluxstringer fluxstrin...@gmail.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/fluxstreamcommunication/ http://www.facebook.com/FluxStringer http://www.linkedin.com/in/fluxstreamcommunications http://flux-influx.blogspot.com/ http://fluxdreams.designbinder.com/ Akron University Winter Class of '75 That and three bucks gets me a cup of coffee most anywhere. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: spills wireless keyboard
On Mar 8, 2011, at 2:57 PM, michaelangelo wrote: If I accidentially dump my coffee on the keyboad is there the same liklihood of shorting out or otherwise damaging the computer as there is with a wired keyboard or is this actually a good way to prevent damage beyond the yeyboard or mouse? Since there is no physical electrical connection it's as if you turned off the KB. And don't put any new Mac keyboards through the wash cycle;' this worked with the older ones, but the new aluminum ones are actually glued together and do not mix with liquids at all. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: spills wireless keyboard
If it's a wireless keyboard --- be sure to remove the internal batteries BRFORE the 'dishwasher' treatment!!;-) Chuck On Mar 8, 2011, at 5:44 PM, Wallace Adrian D'Alessio wrote: On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 9:57 PM, michaelangelo smit1...@gmail.com wrote: The answer to this question may be obvious to some but it's a mystery to me: I use a wireless keyboard and mouse. If I accidentially dump my coffee on the keyboad is there the same liklihood of shorting out or otherwise damaging the computer as there is with a wired keyboard or is this actually a good way to prevent damage beyond the yeyboard or mouse? Great curiosity. Just lack of function to the KB, Some people recommend putting it through the dishwasher. Yes it is true. Then drying it. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Superdrive woe
the UJ-825 in my powerbook G4 became increasingly fussy over time. cd writing was prettyr reliable, but as for dvd writing, sometimes it would report a successful burn , but the resulting dvd wouldn't read. more often, either the drive would report can't calibrate the laser for this media or it would accept the media then fail either during the burn or during the verify. there seemed to be no difference in success rate using either toast platinum or disk utility. i found a replacement drive on ebay for about $25 IIRC. i used a guide from ifixit.com, which has a wide variety of very detailed and (in my experience) accurate repair guides. i have done several repairs on mac books and a mac book pro, but replacing the superdrive in the power book was the most challenging, so be forewarned. nothing about it was hard, or required any particular technical skills, but just attention to detail and patience. the superdrive appears to be the first thing placed into the case during manufacture, so you need to take out just about everything else in the case in order to remove it. when i use one of the ifixit guides, i print a copy, then tape the screws to the printed copy that are removed in each step. it took about an hour to do this repair, and the new drive works well. ken On Mar 8, 2:01 pm, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote: On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:38 AM, Jonathan Smith wrote: I have a 17 powerbook G4 1.5 with the MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-825 superdrive. I am not a frequent burner of dvd/cd's. But I am used to more modern drive which don't fuss over what type of media you use. According to it's specs, it reads dvd full stop and burns - and +. I have had it reading from cd's and dvd's, I have yet to burn from it though. But it will not recognise a particular dual layer dvd+ I have burned. It just spits it out. It also spits out a blank disc of the same kind. I have read elsewhere that apple recommend TDK. Have I read correctly, that these drives are fussy and only like certain brands of disc? Also, should I be ok to read and write to dvd+ dual layers and if so, which work for you best? Don't know about media, the specifications of the UJ-825 say that it can both read write DVD+ dual-layer media, so this appears to be a problem with the drive or the media type, most likely the media I'd guess? With respect to media, there are several different dyes used in different media brands. I've had excellent luck with Verbatim discs that use the darker dye rather than the cheaper discs with the lighter dye. Cheap discs seem to fail at a high rate. One thing to consider, there is supposedly such a thing as a dual-layer rewritable disc which I've never used, but sounds intriguing if you could actually rewrite these up to 1,000 times. I'd be surprised if you could rewrite a single time, but I have very limited experience with rewritable discs, perhaps they work great? I've seen that back in 2007 someone created a patched firmware for this drive that enables RPC1 region-free usage for this drive so that it can play discs from all regions. Normally region-free flashing isn't necessary any longer because VLC can play discs from all regions without flashing, but this particular drive seems to be special and doesn't work region-free with VLC according to information on this page: http://www.pinoymac.org/forum/archive/index.php?t-18462.html Flashing a drive in a Mac may be impossible or difficult. I don't see a Mac flash program, but it may be possible to boot the Mac into Target Disk mode and attach the Mac to a PC via a Firewire cable and then flash the drive from the PC using the Windows flash program (I don't know if it supports Firewire flashing, so this may be a waste of time?). If you can't flash it using a PC with the Mac in Target Disk mode the only alternative would be to remove the drive and place it into a PC which seems too difficult for a laptop. Also, finding the patched firmware may be difficult, and it also my remove the Apple from the identifier, which probably isn't an issue if you're using 10.4.11 or 10.5.8, but may require PatchBurn if you have any lower level OS. Here's a page about the UJ-825 patched firmwware: http://forum.rpc1.org/viewtopic.php?f=30t=43012 -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Target mode problem
i inherited a sawtooth G4, and for the first couple of weeks i couldn't get it to enter target disk mode, either by using the T key on startup, or choosing it in the startup disk preferences panel. then one day i tried it and it worked, and it has ever since. i think what happened is that somewhere along the way in getting this old machine up and running, upgraded, etc, i had reason to reset the CUDA and that was what cause target disk mode to start working. google reset CUDA power mac and you'll find an apple document describing how to do it for your machine. ken On Mar 7, 5:28 pm, Al Poulin alfred.pou...@gmail.com wrote: On Mar 6, 9:03 pm, MichaelP papa...@peak.org wrote: With an OS10.4.11 system refuses to enter Target mode on aG4 mirrored - PowerMac 3.6 - whether through the T-key or through the prompt on the Startup Disk window and, instead , the machine turnsitself off. I'm not sure I understand which machine is the target, and I am not sure I can help. But have your tried making your current host the target instead? I had a similar problem years ago. Look here:http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list/browse_thread/thread/922a146... or search on Target Disk Mode Major Hicup. I never pursued the drive swap or master-slave solutions suggested by Bruce and Donald, because in a one-time transfer of files, I got what I wanted done by making the target mode go the opposite way. Al Poulin -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet
The power supply unit recently gave out on my Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet Dual 500 MHz. I have now replaced the PSU, but in doing so I seem to have done more harm than good. When I turn the computer on with the power button, it plays a chime and after about ten seconds the monitor (LG Flatron 17) lights up. A small rectangle with text flashes briefly on the screen, but is gone before I can read it. The icon of a folder then appears, with alternately a left-facing smiling face and a question mark on it. After a couple of minutes this icon eventually turns into a smiling Mac in a Mac Plus frame. The pointer also appears on the screen, and can be moved about by means of the mouse. I suppose this means that the Mac is looking for a startup disk, and can't find one. Why not? I suspect it's because of careless handling of the hard drives when I was working in the case. Apple's Power Supply Replacement Instructions (accessed from docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=75312) tell one to disconnect the power cables from any hard drives, and to do this I had to remove my two drives because the power cable on the lower drive was socketed in so tightly. I suspect that I accidentally zapped the drives with static electricity. Or can someone think of a more probable cause? What must I do if I want to get this faithful old workhorse back into working order again, if in fact this is possible? Install another hard drive? If so, should it be a Serial ATA drive? And does that mean buying a Serial ATA PCI controller card? If so, which kinds? The prices suggest it would be better to abandon the old machine. The old drives (now useless?) were a 120GB Western Digital IDE drive, configured as master, and the original 40GB Ultra ATA/66 7200-rpm, configured as slave. The operating system was Tiger 4.11. I will appreciate help and suggestions. Ronald Sweet -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet
On Mar 8, 2011, at 9:03 PM, Ronald Sweet wrote: I suspect it's because of careless handling of the hard drives when I was working in the case. Apple's Power Supply Replacement Instructions (accessed from docs.info.apple.com/article.html? artnum=75312) tell one to disconnect the power cables from any hard drives, and to do this I had to remove my two drives because the power cable on the lower drive was socketed in so tightly. I suspect that I accidentally zapped the drives with static electricity. Or can someone think of a more probable cause? Try replacing the ATA cable. You might have pulled too hard on it, and broken one of the many wires in it. What must I do if I want to get this faithful old workhorse back into working order again, if in fact this is possible? Install another hard drive? If so, should it be a Serial ATA drive? And does that mean buying a Serial ATA PCI controller card? Did you do OPT-Command-P-R on Startup to reset things? -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet
Then there's the PRAM button reset that should have been done as well ... -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet
At 9:03 PM -0500 3/8/2011, Ronald Sweet wrote: The power supply unit recently gave out on my Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet Dual 500 MHz. I have now replaced the PSU, but in doing so I seem to have done more harm than good. When I turn the computer on with the power button, it plays a chime and after about ten seconds the monitor (LG Flatron 17) lights up. A small rectangle with text flashes briefly on the screen, but is gone before I can read it. The icon of a folder then appears, with alternately a left-facing smiling face and a question mark on it. After a couple of minutes this icon eventually turns into a smiling Mac in a Mac Plus frame. The pointer also appears on the screen, and can be moved about by means of the mouse. I suppose this means that the Mac is looking for a startup disk, and can't find one. Why not? The data in the PRAM is invalid, so the bootstrap is doing the standard device seek, checking each in turn. Zap the PRAM, and let the machine boot. Then reselect the boot volume using the Startup Disk system preference pane. I suspect it's because of careless handling of the hard drives when I was working in the case. Apple's Power Supply Replacement Instructions (accessed from docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=75312) tell one to disconnect the power cables from any hard drives, and to do this I had to remove my two drives because the power cable on the lower drive was socketed in so tightly. I suspect that I accidentally zapped the drives with static electricity. Or can someone think of a more probable cause? Think horses, not zebras. Do the above first. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: spills wireless keyboard
At 4:29 PM -0700 3/8/2011, Bruce Johnson wrote: On Mar 8, 2011, at 2:57 PM, michaelangelo wrote: If I accidentially dump my coffee on the keyboad is there the same liklihood of shorting out or otherwise damaging the computer as there is with a wired keyboard or is this actually a good way to prevent damage beyond the yeyboard or mouse? Since there is no physical electrical connection it's as if you turned off the KB. heh. That's just no fun. Everyone knows that electrical shorts travel thru the aether just as well as they travel through metal and maple syrup. humph. Darn. There's a cat whisker in my coffee mug again. No wonder r new furball (7mos!) is so boingy! http://dl.dropbox.com/u/610326/Vicky%2C%20on%20the%20shelf.jpg And don't put any new Mac keyboards through the wash cycle; this worked with the older ones, but the new aluminum ones are actually glued together and do not mix with liquids at all. Um, yea, what Bruce said. The days of dishwasherin' gear are Over. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet
On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:03 PM, Ronald Sweet wrote: The power supply unit recently gave out on my Power Mac G4 Gigabit Ethernet Dual 500 MHz. I have now replaced the PSU, but in doing so I seem to have done more harm than good. When I turn the computer on with the power button, it plays a chime and after about ten seconds the monitor (LG Flatron 17) lights up. A small rectangle with text flashes briefly on the screen, but is gone before I can read it. The icon of a folder then appears, with alternately a left-facing smiling face and a question mark on it. After a couple of minutes this icon eventually turns into a smiling Mac in a Mac Plus frame. The pointer also appears on the screen, and can be moved about by means of the mouse. I suppose this means that the Mac is looking for a startup disk, and can't find one. Why not? I suspect it's because of careless handling of the hard drives when I was working in the case. Apple's Power Supply Replacement Instructions (accessed from docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=75312) tell one to disconnect the power cables from any hard drives, and to do this I had to remove my two drives because the power cable on the lower drive was socketed in so tightly. I suspect that I accidentally zapped the drives with static electricity. Or can someone think of a more probable cause? Check all your drive cables. Unplug and re-plug them. Boot from a Installer disk, go to System Information and see if the drive is showing up. Also check Disk Utilities to see if it's appearing there. What must I do if I want to get this faithful old workhorse back into working order again, if in fact this is possible? Install another hard drive? If so, should it be a Serial ATA drive? And does that mean buying a Serial ATA PCI controller card? Whether you want to go SATA depends on how big a drive you want and how much you want to pay for it. Yes, a SATA drive would require a SATA controller. This model's IDE controller is limited 128Gb without a workaround. If so, which kinds? The prices suggest it would be better to abandon the old machine. The old drives (now useless?) were a 120GB Western Digital IDE drive, configured as master, and the original 40GB Ultra ATA/66 7200-rpm, configured as slave. The operating system was Tiger 4.11. Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: spills wireless keyboard
Try Fine Tuner Cleaner you can get this from Radio Shack!!! -Original Message- From: michaelangelo smit1...@gmail.com Sent: Mar 8, 2011 4:57 PM To: G-Group g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Subject: spills wireless keyboard The answer to this question may be obvious to some but it's a mystery to me: I use a wireless keyboard and mouse. If I accidentially dump my coffee on the keyboad is there the same liklihood of shorting out or otherwise damaging the computer as there is with a wired keyboard or is this actually a good way to prevent damage beyond the yeyboard or mouse? Great curiosity. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list Scars only tell us where we have been, they do not have to dictate where we are going... “Choose love and peace above all other options. Commit to the goal of unconditional love and compassion for all life, in all its expressions, and surrender all judgment to God. --- Dr. David R. Hawkins -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
