Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-30 Thread Charles Lenington

cheryl wrote:
 Home Depot has the Monster Power surge protectors, which is what I've
 been using for the last 7 years or so. I'll probably go get one of
 those to replace this one once they plow the roads so I can drive! I
 don't have any way to test the pram battery 

When you go out take the battery (in a zip lock, etc) to Batteries + or 
radio shack they will test I'm sure. Or if you want to have a multimeter 
around for other uses - I found a digital one for $15 at Walmart. Don't 
buy a new battery at Radio Shack unless you are loaded. They charge 
13-15.00 for a battery that can be found online for 4-6.00 online.
 so I may just replace it.
 I think I'll replace the surge protector before I do anything else. I
 bought the G4 from someone on LEM Swap, so I don't have any warranties
 or anything on it. It sounds like there's a good chance that I'll be
 able to get the G4 back up and running, and in the meantime I can use
 my G3.

 Thanks so much to all for your help. I'll post and let you know how it
 goes with the G4.
   


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Re: UPS effectiveness (was: Power failure-computer won't start)

2008-12-28 Thread w_tom

On Dec 28, 6:19 am, Bill Christensen billc_li...@greenbuilder.com
wrote:
 ...
 I never said anything about defective hardware.   I said I ran one
 of the diagnostic/repair tools on it, fix a bunch of stuff.  By that
 I was referring to SOFTWARE diagnostics and SOFTWARE fixes - Disk
 First Aid, Disk Warrior, Norton, whatever the heck we were using most
 at the time.  Nothing changed in the hardware set up at all.

 And I don't give a rat's patoot as to why the power company delivered
 crappy power.  I've seen the lights dim or momentarily go out often
 enough to know that it does.
 ...

  You are correct.  You did not say anything about defective hardware
in a computer that may have symptoms of existing defective hardware.
For example, if that computer has a defective power supply ($60
replacement cost), you somehow knew hardware damage was being averted
by installing a  $500+ UPS.  That is what you claimed.  You claimed
UPSes provide hardware protection because an $1800 UPS masked an
already existing defect.  That does not prove hardware protection.
That demonstrates that throwing $1800 at a $60 problem can mask
symptoms.

  A hardware defect still exists with or without that UPS.Your
example also demonstrates why GM is losing so much money by making the
same mistakes that even Ross Perot defined 20 years earlier.  They too
throw massive money to cure symptoms rather than find, then fix,
trivial problems.  Bottom line - your example does not prove a UPS
protects hardware.  It only proves symptoms can be cured and that
multiple problems may still exist.

  More facts based only on assumptions. You have assumed the utility
is delivering crappy power.  More often, those symptoms are traceable
to a major safety defect; maybe inside that house.  IOW both computers
may have been a 'canary in a coalmine'.  Instead you would mock
investigating before fixing something?   Your speculations still do
not prove a UPS provides hardware protection.  And that is the point.
UPSes do not provide hardware protection despite so many assumptions
that say otherwise.

  A new fact.  Another computer was doing the same thing, but only in
that house.  You assumed crappy utility power.  The second computer
only works in their house?  More reasons to ask if a serious human
safety threat might exist in their house.  A problem easily located
with some basic knowledge, inspection, or by hiring an electrician.  A
problem that still exists even with an $1800 UPS.

  Get the household electric inspected.  The observation - computers
only crash in their house - is only sufficient to make an assumption
and to later develop a hypothesis.  Not sufficient to know anything
except that a problem (potentially serous) clearly does still exist.

  UPS does not provide hardware protection.  It simply protects a
computer from power off.  In this case, a UPS might have been used to
ignore a potential human safety problem.

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Re: UPS effectiveness (was: Power failure-computer won't start)

2008-12-28 Thread Anne Keller-Smith

We've always had UPS's, usually APC, and *all* of our computers have
worked without any major problems for long periods of time, say 8-10
years. Usually in the $75-150 range.

So I'm happy with them. I have had good power, flaky power -
but the Macs are happy critters.

On Dec 28, 2008, at 6:19 AM, Bill Christensen wrote:
  Finally I decided that the prime difference was the power.  They  
 were
  unprotected.  We've got a big UPS (sine wave output, not square
  wave).  We're all way out at the end of the power system, and the
  power is definitely prone to spikes and surges.



Anne Keller Smith
Down to Earth Web Design

G4 Quicksilver 733mHz Tower
896 MB RAM, 40 GB hard drive, OS 10.4.11

Intel iMac 2.4gHz Core 2 Duo
1GB RAM, 250GB Hard Drive, OS 10.5.5

mailto:earth...@ptd.net
http://www.downtoearthweb.com


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Re: UPS effectiveness (was: Power failure-computer won't start)

2008-12-27 Thread w_tom

On Dec 27, 10:55 pm, Bill Christensen billc_li...@greenbuilder.com
wrote:
 Finally I decided that the prime difference was the power.  They were
 unprotected.  We've got a big UPS (sine wave output, not square
 wave).  We're all way out at the end of the power system, and the
 power is definitely prone to spikes and surges.   Our UPS  beeps and
 boops frequently telling us of slumps and surges.
 We put them on a UPS and the problems went away.  Same machine, same
 use patterns.

  Let's add some facts.  First you had no idea why the supply was
failing.  Using anecdotal evidence, you were speculating.  From
diagnostic programs, where was a fact that identified what hardware
was defective?  You fixed what?  And then it still failed?  You did
not even know what hardware was defective and when.  So how do you
know the UPS terminated hardware damage?  You don't.  You only
speculated.

  Second, anything that a $500 UPS (to create sine waves) would solve
is supposed to be inside a $60 power supply.  So you spent $500 on a
UPS to fix a defective power supply?  That is proof?  Of what?  You
somehow _know_ 'dirty' power can corrupt any computer?  And that
corruption means hardware was damaged?

  Above are numerous assumptions based only on observation and on few
facts.

   When was observation alone sufficient to know something?  Any fact
from only observation is classic junk science.  What was taught in
junior high science?  First, the problem must be defined by a
hypothesis based in well understood principles.  Second, hypothesis
must be confirmed with experimental evidence.  Without both, only
speculation exists.  You have posted speculation.  Then you converted
that speculation into a conclusion.  IOW junk science.

   More likely, you spent $500 to cure symptoms.  A power supply was
defective even when used in your home.  If using basic principles
taught in junior high school, then all that trouble and a $500 UPS
would have been unnecessary.

  Plug-in UPSes have their purpose as I stated.  I then stated what
those purposes are.   But to fix a $60 defective computer power supply
with a $500 UPS - that is not worthwhile.  That $500 UPS only suggests
where to look for the defect in a computer's power supply 'system'.

   Anne Keller-Smith recommends using a UPS to protect hardware.  Even
a $500 UPS does not claim protection from typical hardware destructive
events. Even your example was not a hardware destructive event.  Her
recommendation was not a $500 UPS.  A computer grade UPS is typically
under $100.  That UPS connects a computer directly to AC mains as if
the UPS did not exist.  And then you complicate the issue by
discussing a $500 UPS?  So many defects and assumptions exist in your
reasoning.   So again, why would you buy a $500 UPS to fix a defective
$60 power supply - then assume that solved a hardware failure?

  A UPS is to protect data from power loss.  Even 'dirtiest'
electricity created by the typical computer grade UPS is made
irrelevant by the computer's power supply.   Nothing posted implies a
$500 UPS protected hardware.  It only implies a $500 UPS was purchased
to fix a defective $60 power supply.

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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-26 Thread Kris Tilford

On Dec 26, 2008, at 1:17 AM, cheryl wrote:

 The keyboard, mouse and monitor are working fine with the G3 and they
 are all plugged in to my MonsterPower surge protector. I do notice
 that the light for the ground is on but the protection light is not.

 Where is the reset button?

I'm assuming you mean the reset button for the MonsterPower surge  
protector? Since the protection light isn't on, it sounds like the  
surge protector may have tripped? Reset the MonstorPower strip if you  
can find a reset button, and then test it. If you can't find a reset  
on the surge strip, try starting the PowerMac without the surge  
protector by plugging it directly into the wall socket?

If you mean the reset on the PowerMac, then the Cuda reset button is  
located to the right of the PRAM battery. Try this also.

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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-26 Thread joe
The motherboard reset button is right near the PRAM battery (yes--the  
half AA sized lithium battery).

If that doesn't work, unplug it and take the PRAM battery out and  
leave it unpowered overnight.

On Dec 26, 2008, at 1:17 AM, cheryl wrote:


 The keyboard, mouse and monitor are working fine with the G3 and they
 are all plugged in to my MonsterPower surge protector. I do notice
 that the light for the ground is on but the protection light is not.

 Where is the reset button? And is the pram battery that small lithium
 battery thats on the door of the machine?

 Thanks!

==
Joe the Juggler
4148 Wyoming St.
St. Louis, MO 63116
(314) 771-3243
http://joethejuggler.com
==




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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-26 Thread Charles Lenington

cheryl wrote:
 The keyboard, mouse and monitor are working fine with the G3 and they
 are all plugged in to my MonsterPower surge protector. I do notice
 that the light for the ground is on but the protection light is not. 
   
That don't sound to good. It's possible that the G3 doesn't pull as much 
amps as the G4. So the G3 may run but the G4 won't. Try plugging G4 into 
wall to test w/out surge protector, also take surge protector completely 
out of system to test. Start researching the lack of the light on 
manufacturers web site and warranty info. Some uses the ground light is 
on for normal/ok ground, and others the ground light is on if failure. 
Get one of the plugin testers below to check the ground.
 Where is the reset button? 

It's a 1/4 silver square with a black button on top. Mostly down by the 
hinge side of board but a couple are up by the latch. On one model 
there's 2 next to each other. One's a power and the other is pram/reset 
button.
 And is the pram battery that small lithium
 battery thats on the door of the machine?
   

Correct
 Thanks!



 On Dec 25, 10:59 pm, Charles Lenington macso...@brightok.net wrote:
   
 cheryl wrote:
 
 My G4 won't start up. The power went out while I was gone, and when it
 came back on, I couldn't get the computer to start. The light on the
 button comes on but then it goes out as soon as I take my finger off
 it. The monitor and internet box are fine, and right now I'm working
 on my old G3. Thank Goddess I didn't get rid of it! I have a surge
 protector power strip that's made for computers and peripherals.
   
 So do you think the computer is fried or is it just a fuse or
 something? I've had the power go out while the machine was on and it
 came back up just fine. This time I had it in sleep mode. I don't know
 if that makes a difference.
   
 Thanks in advance for your help!
   
 Cheryl
   
 Open door and briefly push the reset button or remove pram battery for
 2+ minutes (wouldn't hurt to check voltage on battery while it's out).

 Assuming that the G3 is in a different location:
 Also try pulling power cord for 5 minutes. If other items not working on
 strip or same wall outlet check breaker and power at wall outlet.

 Another step would be to start unplugging devices, does the same
 keyboard/mouse work ok on G3?
 --
 How to test w/ multimeter

 http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_test_a_wall_outlet_with_a_multim...

 This item tests for proper ground and can tell if circuit dead. I keep
 one in my tech and laptop 
 bags.http://www.pcmall.com/pcmall/shop/detail.asp?dpno=419579Redir=1desc...
 They are proud of this one.
 I bet I can find one cheaper, I'll look around some more.

 I did..
 Electrical Receptacle Wall Plug AC Outlet Ground Tester(on ebay
 search this title if link 
 breaks)http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290272907301ssPag...

 https://www.hardwareworld.com/120v-Ac-Outlet-Tester-pN7NSQJ.aspx

 Check Lowes/Home Depot/etc
 


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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-26 Thread cheryl

Home Depot has the Monster Power surge protectors, which is what I've
been using for the last 7 years or so. I'll probably go get one of
those to replace this one once they plow the roads so I can drive! I
don't have any way to test the pram battery so I may just replace it.
I think I'll replace the surge protector before I do anything else. I
bought the G4 from someone on LEM Swap, so I don't have any warranties
or anything on it. It sounds like there's a good chance that I'll be
able to get the G4 back up and running, and in the meantime I can use
my G3.

Thanks so much to all for your help. I'll post and let you know how it
goes with the G4.


On Dec 26, 1:13 am, Charles Lenington macso...@brightok.net wrote:
 cheryl wrote:
  The keyboard, mouse and monitor are working fine with the G3 and they
  are all plugged in to my MonsterPower surge protector. I do notice
  that the light for the ground is on but the protection light is not.

 That don't sound to good. It's possible that the G3 doesn't pull as much
 amps as the G4. So the G3 may run but the G4 won't. Try plugging G4 into
 wall to test w/out surge protector, also take surge protector completely
 out of system to test. Start researching the lack of the light on
 manufacturers web site and warranty info. Some uses the ground light is
 on for normal/ok ground, and others the ground light is on if failure.
 Get one of the plugin testers below to check the ground.

  Where is the reset button?

 It's a 1/4 silver square with a black button on top. Mostly down by the
 hinge side of board but a couple are up by the latch. On one model
 there's 2 next to each other. One's a power and the other is pram/reset
 button.

  And is the pram battery that small lithium
  battery thats on the door of the machine?

 Correct

  Thanks!

  On Dec 25, 10:59 pm, Charles Lenington macso...@brightok.net wrote:

  cheryl wrote:

  My G4 won't start up. The power went out while I was gone, and when it
  came back on, I couldn't get the computer to start. The light on the
  button comes on but then it goes out as soon as I take my finger off
  it. The monitor and internet box are fine, and right now I'm working
  on my old G3. Thank Goddess I didn't get rid of it! I have a surge
  protector power strip that's made for computers and peripherals.

  So do you think the computer is fried or is it just a fuse or
  something? I've had the power go out while the machine was on and it
  came back up just fine. This time I had it in sleep mode. I don't know
  if that makes a difference.

  Thanks in advance for your help!

  Cheryl

  Open door and briefly push the reset button or remove pram battery for
  2+ minutes (wouldn't hurt to check voltage on battery while it's out).

  Assuming that the G3 is in a different location:
  Also try pulling power cord for 5 minutes. If other items not working on
  strip or same wall outlet check breaker and power at wall outlet.

  Another step would be to start unplugging devices, does the same
  keyboard/mouse work ok on G3?
  --
  How to test w/ multimeter

 http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_test_a_wall_outlet_with_a_multim...

  This item tests for proper ground and can tell if circuit dead. I keep
  one in my tech and laptop 
  bags.http://www.pcmall.com/pcmall/shop/detail.asp?dpno=419579Redir=1desc...
  They are proud of this one.
  I bet I can find one cheaper, I'll look around some more.

  I did..
  Electrical Receptacle Wall Plug AC Outlet Ground Tester(on ebay
  search this title if link 
  breaks)http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290272907301ssPag...

 https://www.hardwareworld.com/120v-Ac-Outlet-Tester-pN7NSQJ.aspx

  Check Lowes/Home Depot/etc
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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-26 Thread w_tom

On Dec 26, 1:59 pm, Anne Keller-Smith earth...@ptd.net wrote:
...I like to get a Uninterruptible Power Supply ... I heard
 that's hard on the motherboards, even when it's a slump
 in voltage. The UPS makes sure the Mac gets a consistent
 voltage at all times ...

  Low voltage is not hard on motherboards.  Electronics has been
required to not be harmed by low voltage for generations - even long
before PCs exists.  However myths to promote UPSes live on.  In fact a
chart from an industry standard 30 some years ago defines low voltage
as not destructive by using this expression even in capital letters:
No Damage Region

  UPS provides consistent voltage?  How consistent?  This 120 volt
computer grade UPS outputs two 200 volt square waves with a spike of
up to 270 volts between those square waves.   That UPS electricity is
so 'dirty' as to be harmful to some small electric motors and Monster
Cable surge protectors.  But since computers are so robust, that same
'dirty' voltage is irrelevant.

  Computer grade UPS does not protect hardware.  Does not even claim
to.  It claims to protect from a power loss.  The claim is worded so
that you will assume it also provides hardware protection.

  Read what even the manufacturer admits in:
   http://tinyurl.com/6zn9sr
 APC's Back-UPS line is designed for use with
 Computer-type loads only. They are not designed to
 be used with motor loads such as fish filters, air
 conditioning units, space heaters, vacuum cleaners
 or any other machinery.

  Why?  Some of the 'dirtiest' electricity comes from a UPS when in
battery backup mode.  Its purpose is to protect data from blackouts -
not to protect hardware.

  Low voltage is not harmful to motherboards.  If it were, then low
voltage would also cause electronics inside a UPS (that recharges the
battery) to be destroyed.  Damage from low voltage is a popular urban
legend where claims are provided without numbers - with speculations.
From Intel standards for power supplies so long ago: voltage must drop
so low that incandescent bulbs glow at only 40% intensity - and the
computer must work just fine.  Low voltage must not cause electronics
damage - despite popular urban myths.

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Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-25 Thread cheryl

My G4 won't start up. The power went out while I was gone, and when it
came back on, I couldn't get the computer to start. The light on the
button comes on but then it goes out as soon as I take my finger off
it. The monitor and internet box are fine, and right now I'm working
on my old G3. Thank Goddess I didn't get rid of it! I have a surge
protector power strip that's made for computers and peripherals.

So do you think the computer is fried or is it just a fuse or
something? I've had the power go out while the machine was on and it
came back up just fine. This time I had it in sleep mode. I don't know
if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cheryl
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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-25 Thread Charles Lenington

cheryl wrote:
 My G4 won't start up. The power went out while I was gone, and when it
 came back on, I couldn't get the computer to start. The light on the
 button comes on but then it goes out as soon as I take my finger off
 it. The monitor and internet box are fine, and right now I'm working
 on my old G3. Thank Goddess I didn't get rid of it! I have a surge
 protector power strip that's made for computers and peripherals.

 So do you think the computer is fried or is it just a fuse or
 something? I've had the power go out while the machine was on and it
 came back up just fine. This time I had it in sleep mode. I don't know
 if that makes a difference.

 Thanks in advance for your help!

 Cheryl
   
Open door and briefly push the reset button or remove pram battery for 
2+ minutes (wouldn't hurt to check voltage on battery while it's out).

Assuming that the G3 is in a different location:
Also try pulling power cord for 5 minutes. If other items not working on 
strip or same wall outlet check breaker and power at wall outlet.

Another step would be to start unplugging devices, does the same 
keyboard/mouse work ok on G3?
--
How to test w/ multimeter

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_test_a_wall_outlet_with_a_multimeter

This item tests for proper ground and can tell if circuit dead. I keep 
one in my tech and laptop bags.
http://www.pcmall.com/pcmall/shop/detail.asp?dpno=419579Redir=1description=TrippLite-CT120%20Instant-Read%20AC%20Outlet%20Circuit%20Tester-Test%20Equipment
They are proud of this one.
I bet I can find one cheaper, I'll look around some more.

I did..
Electrical Receptacle Wall Plug AC Outlet Ground Tester(on ebay 
search this title if link breaks)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290272907301ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIXrefitem=370120198844itemcount=4refwidgetloc=closed_view_itemrefwidgettype=osi_widget_trksid=p284.m185_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BIA%26itu%3DCR%252BIA%252BUCI%26otn%3D4%26ps%3D42

https://www.hardwareworld.com/120v-Ac-Outlet-Tester-pN7NSQJ.aspx

Check Lowes/Home Depot/etc

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Re: Power failure-computer won't start

2008-12-25 Thread cheryl

The keyboard, mouse and monitor are working fine with the G3 and they
are all plugged in to my MonsterPower surge protector. I do notice
that the light for the ground is on but the protection light is not.

Where is the reset button? And is the pram battery that small lithium
battery thats on the door of the machine?

Thanks!



On Dec 25, 10:59 pm, Charles Lenington macso...@brightok.net wrote:
 cheryl wrote:
  My G4 won't start up. The power went out while I was gone, and when it
  came back on, I couldn't get the computer to start. The light on the
  button comes on but then it goes out as soon as I take my finger off
  it. The monitor and internet box are fine, and right now I'm working
  on my old G3. Thank Goddess I didn't get rid of it! I have a surge
  protector power strip that's made for computers and peripherals.

  So do you think the computer is fried or is it just a fuse or
  something? I've had the power go out while the machine was on and it
  came back up just fine. This time I had it in sleep mode. I don't know
  if that makes a difference.

  Thanks in advance for your help!

  Cheryl

 Open door and briefly push the reset button or remove pram battery for
 2+ minutes (wouldn't hurt to check voltage on battery while it's out).

 Assuming that the G3 is in a different location:
 Also try pulling power cord for 5 minutes. If other items not working on
 strip or same wall outlet check breaker and power at wall outlet.

 Another step would be to start unplugging devices, does the same
 keyboard/mouse work ok on G3?
 --
 How to test w/ multimeter

 http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_test_a_wall_outlet_with_a_multim...

 This item tests for proper ground and can tell if circuit dead. I keep
 one in my tech and laptop 
 bags.http://www.pcmall.com/pcmall/shop/detail.asp?dpno=419579Redir=1desc...
 They are proud of this one.
 I bet I can find one cheaper, I'll look around some more.

 I did..
 Electrical Receptacle Wall Plug AC Outlet Ground Tester(on ebay
 search this title if link 
 breaks)http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290272907301ssPag...

 https://www.hardwareworld.com/120v-Ac-Outlet-Tester-pN7NSQJ.aspx

 Check Lowes/Home Depot/etc
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Power Macs.
The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette 
guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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