Re: [Gimp-user] Installing xsane plugin
John Culleton writes: > I guess I must keep asking this question until someone responds. > > How do I install the xsane plugin in Gimp? Xsane runs ok standalone. Tino gave an answer for gimp installed from source. If you're using gimp from an RPM, you probably want the xsane-gimp RPM, which apparently provides the hooks necessary to make the gimp see the sane plugin. On a Redhat 7.2 system: % rpm -qa | grep sane sane-frontends-1.0.6-2 sane-backends-devel-1.0.6-4 sane-backends-1.0.6-4 xsane-0.83-2 xsane-gimp-0.77-4 % rpm -ql xsane-gimp /usr/bin/xsane-gimp % file /usr/bin/xsane-gimp /usr/bin/xsane-gimp: ELF 32-bit LSB executable, Intel 80386, version 1, dynamically linked (uses shared libs), stripped My gimp 1.3.3 installed from source doesn't see the xsane plugin, though, so Tino's instructions are probably better if you're installing gimp and xsane from source. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Installing xsane plugin
I wrote: [suggestion of xsane-gimp RPM] > My gimp 1.3.3 installed from source doesn't see the xsane plugin, > though, so Tino's instructions are probably better if you're > installing gimp and xsane from source. ... Tino's instructions were: > Yes indeed, it is simple: Just do not create an xsane directory but link > the xsane binary directly into ~/.gimp-1.2/plug-ins . Then remove > ~/.gimp-1.2/pluginrc and restart gimp. I found that I had to link xsane-gimp, not just xsane, into the plug-ins directory for gimp-1.3. If I linked plain xsane, gimp complained: /home/akkana/.gimp-1.3/plug-ins/xsane: GIMP support missing But maybe that's just a question of how xsane is compiled. John, is it possible that you forgot to configure gimp support when you built xsane? I don't think it's on by default. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] tif2xcf (perl plugins don't register)
Jason Pearce writes: > I found this plugin on the web > tif2xcf > http://www.vierpi.de/panotools-gimp.html > and i am having trouble installing it i have had a go at the instructions > given on the website I tried downloading and installing it in my plugins directory (copied to ~/.gimp-1.2/plug-ins and chmod 755) -- it does get run on startup (gimp --verbose mentions it) but it doesn't register itself properly. It runs from the command line. But I'm not sure my other perl plugins are registering either -- I seem to have lots of perl files in /usr/local/lib/gimp but none of them actually show up in the menus where they try to register themselves), and gimp --verbose doesn't give me any hints about why this might be; it rewrites my .pluginrc and for most perl plugins I've checked, the slot where the menu location shows up just gets written as "" regardless of what the plugin wants. There's nothing in the perl error/warning log in Xtns/Perl/Control Conter except "Fatal Message" (no further information). Gimp experts: what might I be missing here? Jason: It looks like tif2xcf assumes you've already run PTStitcher. Did you actually get it to run? I didn't have much luck with that either (looks like it'll take a lot of moving files around to get it to find all the files it needs, not to mention finding a jdk that it likes). The other package on that page you listed, panotools-gimp, did install for me and shows up in the gimp menus, but I haven't figured out the magic incantation to make it actually create a panorama; all I've managed to get it to do is apply lens distortion filters. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] tif2xcf (perl plugins don't register)
Carol Spears writes:
> you need to have the pdl (perl data language) http://pdl.perl.org/ for
> many (not all) of the perl plug-ins to work.
Yes, that was my problem. After installing PDL, and removing my
pluginrc so that gimp would try again for all the plugins it missed,
now I have lots more menu items. Thanks, Carol!
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp plug-ins
Seth Burgess writes: > > None of the scripts you mentioned use PDL. One of them isn't a > > script Carol Spears writes: > i have been running into people who cannot find these scripts in the > menu. i tell them to get the pdl and magically they work. > > ask terral what it took to get terral text working on his computer. > > in fact, when we were trying to get terral text around to show his girl > friend, we found that redhat had compiled their gimp rpm without the pdl > and he had to install the tarball to get it. > > so. prolly you are right and installing the pdl does something else > magically but doing that always works to get those plug-ins to > appear in the menus. In case anyone is interested in more info on one specific case: I'm on a Redhat 7.2 system. rpm -qa | grep gimp gives me this: gimp-perl-1.2.1-7 gimp-devel-1.2.1-7 gimp-data-extras-1.2.0-2 gimp-1.2.1-7 xsane-gimp-0.77-4 But those aren't actually the gimp I'm using: I have source tarballs of 1.2.2 (yes, I'm planning to upgrade :-) and 1.3.5, which are built and installed to /usr/local, which is early in my path so those are what I actually run. I haven't uninstalled the RPMs because it breaks dependencies, I have a big disk and you can't have too many gimps. :-) /usr/local/lib/gimp/1.2/plug-ins has a long list of plugins, including lots of perl ones. These came from the 1.2.2 source (the ones from the RPM are in /usr/lib/gimp/1.2/plug-ins). Lots of these are perl, and almost none of the perl plug-ins showed up in the menus, until I followed Carol's advice and downloaded PDL-2.3.2-1.i386.rpm, which was not installed on my Redhat system (and Redhat doesn't seem to offer and RPM for it). Installing that, and removing my pluginrc, made the perl plugins magically show up in my gimp menus. Now admittedly, 1.2.2 isn't the latest, and maybe 1.2.3 (downloading now) wouldn't have needed this PDL RPM. But meanwhile, I'm grateful for Carol's advice, which has given me access to a bunch of plugins that didn't work before. BTW, I have the gimp-date-extras-1.2.0 tarball but I'm not sure I've ever done a build and make install from there. Would that have solved the problem without needing PDL? If so, that would be useful to know, since right now it looks like the extras are, well, extra. :-) ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp vs. latest Photoshop
John Culleton writes: > The latest version of Photoshop is being praised for its improved tool for > removing wrinkles etc. from a headshot. Can anyone evaluate this facility vis > a vis the similar tools in Gimp, used for the same purpose? I'm glad someone brought that up. A friend who just bought the latest OS X upgrade was raving about the "healing brush" and how wonderful it was. I asked him to describe it, and after hearing his description, I said "It sounds a like the clone tool with Mode set to something other than Normal", but I wasn't clear enough from his vague description exactly what that mode would be. He experimented and found a photoshop mode in their clone tool that seemed to do almost exactly the same thing (I've forgotten which mode), and agreed that it might be just an easier interface on something that was already possible. Then I told that story to a graphic artist who also just upgraded to the new PS, and he said no no, healing brush was something new and wonderful and nothing like clone tool with a different mode. But you know how (some) artists are, it's impossible to get any specific information out of them, so I never did find out what was supposed to be so different. It left me pretty curious. Anyone know what healing brush actually does? Is it something gimp's clone tool modes can't do? ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP, Linux, and tablets (newbie questions)
Dante writes: > I'm going to buy my first graphical tablet - for amateur usage (just for fun, > I like drawing :-). Which tablets would be good ? Any advices ? Sam Jones writes: > I only have a USB tablet. Configuration was a bit tough. I think serial > tablets have more stable drivers. I prefer USB, but serial would have > been less work. I have a new USB Graphire 2 (the small cheap Wacom) and spent the last couple weeks struggling to get it working; tonight I think I finally have it. Here's the key: http://www.blankslate.net/comp/wacom.php You'll find lots of other howtos on using wacoms, but the others are all way out of date and won't help if you have a recent distro or kernel; this one also lists the kernel configuration options you need (which turned out to be part of my problem). He mentions that he uses the devices in Screen mode, not Window mode: that turns out to be mandatory. Gimp 1.2.3 crashes if you put any of the three devices in screen mode (followups on that to gimp-developer). ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] New to list
> On Tuesday 16 July 2002 17:17, mercy ukonline wrote: > > I'm really excited about learning more about Gimp. I used to use > > Paint Shop Pro in windows like it was going out of style :) > > > > Now, i find myself in a foreign program, trying to figure out how to > > do the same things I did in PSP. It is rather straight forward, but > > I admit - I miss my plugins! :) Patrick writes: > I believe you will find Gimp & Linux to be a very big step forward in > your graphics & operating system use. Gimp has many plugins already [ ... ] > Your Linux distro should have included Grokking the Gimp, at least our I also came to gimp from Paintshop Pro (and had used Photoshop LE a little). PSP has a very intuitive and simple interface -- mainly because it doesn't have that many options and you don't need to use layers to do anything. When I started using gimp more, I was frustrated at having to do what seemed like extra steps, and at having all those extra windows (like the layers dialog) cluttering the screen, and at things sometimes not working (because I had the wrong layer selected). Well, okay, sometimes I still get frustrated by that. :-) Grokking the Gimp (online at gimp-savvy.com) was what finally changed my mind -- I followed a few of the projects in the online book and started to realize how much more I could do with the gimp, and then ordered the book and read it and now I can't imagine how I ever got by without having flexible Levels dialogs and at least four layers in every image. :-) The tutorials on gimp.org and carol.gimp.org are also helpful. I never used PSP plugins, so I can't compare them to gimp plugins, but certainly there are lots of gimp plugins so it's worth spending some time exploring the menus. > know what distribution of Linux you are running, but you may find a > program or two that works much the same as your PSP, there are several I haven't seen one. I have used xv for simple things (crop/resize or dark/light) but its user interface isn't particularly intuitive or modern. There are lots of image viewing programs around, but my guess is that most developers figure the gimp is too much competition and nobody really wants a medium-sized image editing program; better to channel that energy into improving the gimp. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Text on a curved line?
Paul Thomas writes: > was wondering if Gimp can put text on a curved line. I need to > have some text around the outside of a circular image. Walker, Sam writes: > My version of GIMP, 1.2.3, has a Script Fu->Logos->Text Circle plugin, that > creates text in a circle. Wow, I don't even have a Logos section in Script Fu, in either 1.2.3 (RH73 RPM) or 1.2.4 (from tarball). I wonder what else I'm missing? Anyone know where to get Text Circle? Anyway, I didn't have anything that did this, and I wanted it for CD labels, so I wrote Arclayer (it bends the current layer in an upper or lower arc of a given radius). It was also an excuse to play with python, so I wrote it as a python plugin; eventually I may translate it to C, but I haven't had time, so for now you have to install gimp-python, http://www.daa.com.au/~james/pygimp/ (in 1.3 it's included, I believe). Arclayer has a few bugs (some extra pixels scattered around that you have to clean up) so I haven't put it in the plugin registry or anything, but you're welcome to try it: http://shallowsky.com/software/arclayer.py It combines nicely with a CD template plugin: http://shallowsky.com/software/CDlabel.py Anyone know a way to bring up the gimp-print plugin with pre-initialized values for offsets and scale? That would make CD labels a lot easier. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Looking for another technique
Mark Drummond writes: > I would like to take a photographic image and convert the image to > only two colours ... with the subject of the photograph (say, a > person) in the foreground colour and the rest in the background > colour, effectively making a silouette(sp) of the photo's subject. I'm pretty sure there are some projects like that in the book "Grokking the Gimp", at http://gimp-savvy.com/, as well as various ways of selecting the foreground object. The straightforward way is to use your favorite technique to make the selection around the subject (I usually end up making a Bezier path then doing Path to Selection, but sometimes you can use the magic wand or other selection tools, depending on the image), use the bucket fill tool to fill with the foreground color, do Selection->Invert, and use bucket fill to fill with the background color. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] wacom graphire2 usb & Window mode crashes gimp
Johannes Zellner writes: > I've a wacom graphire2 usb. > This works with gimp when I use the 'Screen' mode for the wacom > tools (stylus / eraser / cursor) but gimp crashes, when I set > either of these tools to 'Window'. http://bugzilla.gnome.org/show_bug.cgi?id=83779 Wacom in window mode, crash in ink_pen_ellipse ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] FAQ answers
Tom Williams wrote: > *) How does the "Xtns/Script-Fu" menu differ from the "Script-Fu" pop-up > menu? (Answering the questions Michael didn't) The scripts and plugins in Xtns create a new image -- they're not tied to any existing image. The ones in the Image popup menu do things on the current image. > *) What books on the gimp are recommended? Beginner and intermediate > level books would be great. I learned a lot from "Grokking the Gimp" -- preview it at gimp-savvy.com. Stephen J. Baker wrote: > Q: I'm trying to paint and nothing is happening - what did I > do wrong? That gets my vote for the #1 question on the FAQ! It was definitely what kept me in xv or paintshop pro instead of gimp when I was getting started. > A: Eeek! There are about 1e6 things that could be: >* You are painting outside of the selection. And you may not realize this because the "marching ants" may not be shown for some reason. >* You've picked some kind of 'do nothing' paint. >* Your paint colour is the same as the background. >* You are painting to a layer that's hidden. >* You are painting to a layer that's rendered at > 100% transparency. >* Try hitting 'Layers/Anchor'. >* Try hitting 'Layers/Layer-to-Image-Size'. The two causes I hit most often: * You are painting outside of the layer (because you have the wrong layer selected) * You are painting to a layer that somehow got "preserve transparency set" (which leads to a new FAQ: Why does that bit sometimes get set without my setting it?) >...and lots of others... I used to hit this problem even back before I knew about layers, when nothing was selected, and I still don't know what was causing it ... >* Look - just save the image, restart GIMP and > load it back in again - I'm too busy to figure > it out. Ouch. (That doesn't necessarily solve it, though, since when you reload you may still end up on the wrong layer or whatever.) ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] re: Finding a font
Albert Wagner writes: > This is from the README: > > Installation for X11 > > > 1. Change to /usr/X11/lib/fonts > > 2. untar the archive freefont-0.10.tar.gz > > 3. Give the following commands to make X11 accept the new fonts > > xset fp+ /usr/X11/lib/fonts/freefont > xset fp rehash I found that not very helpful on my redhat system (which uses XFS). I filed a bug with suggested steps for systems that use XFS: http://bugzilla.gnome.org/show_bug.cgi?id=84912 I don't know who owns those packages, or what it takes to get the README changed. Anyone know? ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Plugin to create disk cover?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I am a absolute beginner in using the gimp. > I am wondering if there is a plugin to map an image onto a disk format, > and more specifically on a cdrom shape. http://shallowsky.com/software/cdplugins/ ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Fwd: Re: GIMP vs Photoshop
Martin Nordholts writes: > Ken Warner wrote: > > Yeah, I hate that too. What's the point of having a floating window > > if you can never bring it to the top of the stack? > > Edit -> Preferences -> Window Management, change the toolbox and dock > hints to 'Normal window' Except that you can't use that in GIMP 2.7 on a lot of window managers, due to GIMP's bug 556896. With "Normal window", if you ever change desktops, the toolbox and all docks disappear, and it's not easy to get them back. So the "Normal window" setting really isn't usable any more, and the only choice is to put up with the Toolbox covering part of the image window. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to enhance low resolution graphic for larger modified image ???
helices writes: > I have a simple JPG (108x170 pixels) that I want to use in a larger, > higher resolution image that I'm creating. It is a fairly simple black > and white drawing -- actually, a light bulb with several curves and > angles and straight lines. > > Yes, I have expanded it to 1000x1575 pixels. Yes, I've zoomed to 800x, > selected non-black pixels and deleted them. > > What I have now is almost tolerable; but, I'd like to know alternatives, > preferably the simplest, most straight forward method to clean up the > jagged edges that are visible. Try this: - Select by color and click on one of the lines. - Selection to Path. - Select None. - Scale the image up to the desired size. - Path to selection. - Fill the selection with black. It doesn't work for everything, but for a line drawing or solid colored block figure, sometimes you can get amazingly smooth edges that way. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Web resolution question
> 2010/1/27 : > > Is there a typical or standard monitor resolution a web site should be > > designed for? Deniz Dogan writes: > I virtually always make the assumption that the user has at least > 1024x768 and make my websites 960 pixels wide. Last time I checked > only 4 percent of Internet users today had a resolution lower than > 1024x768. http://www.netmarketshare.com/report.aspx?qprid=17 makes it look more like 5-6% (they don't give a "less than", you have add up the numbers for various specific resolutions). But http://browsersize.googlelabs.com/ seems to be saying that more like 30% of Google visitors have screens narrower than 1024. > > The problem I'm having is that when I make a web page the pictures are > > in a different position as viewed from various computers. > > I'm not sure what you mean (or how this relates to the monitor resolution). "bigskypa" is probably assuming that everybody runs their browser in fullscreen mode, so that it takes up the full monitor resolution. Really, a better measure is how big people's actual browser windows are. But a web page needs to be able to adjust to different browser sizes. If your layout changes in unpredictable ways because you resized your browser window, you need to fix your HTML layout. That's one reason why GIMP isn't a good web design tool, though it's great for making individual graphics to use as part of a web page. Perhaps try an HTML forum to figure out where your HTML is going wrong? ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to crop with defined aspect ratio ???
helices writes: > When I'm editing an image and I want to crop that image so it will print > 8x10 or 5x8 or whatever, I'm challenged by adjusting the selection box > to exactly the right proportions. The Crop tool's options includes a checkbox for Fixed: Aspect ratio and a field where you can type in 8:10 or 5:8 or whatever you need. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Beginner: Selected tool has no effect
ChrisBrewster writes: > I've already done a couple of things with Gimp that made me think I was > getting it, but now I need to use some brush tools such as Smudge. So I click > the Smudge icon, put the cursor on the image, press the mouse key and drag, > and it doesn't do anything. In other image editors I've used, at that point > the smudge function would work. I'm having this problem with a couple of > other Gimp tools. What am I missing? Thanks. In addition to the suggestions others have already made, the online GIMP manual has a nice section called "Getting Unstuck": http://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-getting-unstuck.html When you get stuck (and it happens to all of us sometimes), it's helpful to go through that list. There are a few other possibilities that aren't in that list (for example, drawing tool modes) but it covers the most common causes. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Text tool options menu, where is it?
Gene Heskett writes: > Greetings; > > My text font size is microscopic, and the help shows an option menu that lets > me adjust that, but I'll be a monkey's uncle if I can find it. Anybody know > where it wandered off to in gimp-2.6.6 as supplied with Fedora 10? You should have a text size button in Tool Options. See Figure 13.170 in the online GIMP manual, http://docs.gimp.org/2.6/en/gimp-tool-text.html If you've closed your Tool Options somehow (normally it's docked under the Toolbox), Windows->Dockable Dialogs->Tool Options should bring it back. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp and Turboprint
Carusoswi writes: > If I print from 2.7, the Turboprint option is not available and, while I can > get my i960 to work, full functionality is not available. I don't know where this Turboprint option is, but if it's a separate Print option in GIMP's File menu, my guess is that Turboprint is installing its own Print plug-in, and you need to copy the one it installed for 2.6 to 2.7. It might be installed in your profile directory, e.g. ~/.gimp-2.6/plug-ins, or it might be installed in a system location, e.g. /usr/lib/gimp/2.0/plug-ins. Check your GIMP Preferences in 2.6, under Files > Plug-ins, for possible locations. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Rotate selection without content?
Philip U. writes:
> Is there no way to do this? I want to use an elliptical selection, but at an
> angle.
Use the "Transform selection" button in the tool options for the
Rotate tool. Described here:
http://docs.gimp.org/2.6/en/gimp-tools-transform.html#gimp-tool-transform
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP 2.6.8
> > Von: Norman Silverstone > > I am looking at GIMP 2.6.8 on Ubuntu 10.04 RC and notice that the usual > > display of the ruler units and zoom percentage, below the image, is missing Michael Schumacher writes: > https://bugzilla.gnome.org/show_bug.cgi?id=612956 > > You should try to get Ubuntu to backport this to their build. That bug had a pointer to the existing Ubuntu bug, https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/537275 so I filed an SRU request on it (thanks to the person who had already made a debdiff for it) -- with any luck it'll get fixed in Lucid soon. Subscribe to that bug if you want to keep up with what happens. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Create a clickable hotspot?
Ludmilla writes: > >Thank you. I can create the hotspots on the picture I'm using but how > >do I add it into my web page? I'm using Kompozer which doesn't want to > >import the thing.it's a MAP file or some sort of thing. > > I wonder if you have found out how it works - to insert a hotspot in kompozer > - if it works at all. > I'm not sure to be able to write any single code - I'm just a user of Gimp and > Kompozer and would be thankfull for any copy-paste solution. I'm guessing you're talking about making an image map. You can create HTML imagemaps in GIMP using Filters->Web->Image Map... -- see the documentation at http://docs.gimp.org/2.6/en/plug-in-imagemap.html. But if you're having trouble importing the map into Kompozer, you might have better luck asking on a Kompozer list. They'll probably need specifics of what goes wrong when you try to import it: the message you quoted didn't mention that. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] curving text (text to path?)
Nathan H. writes:
> Someone told me there was an ARC plug-in for CD labels, can I use this on my
> windows based version of GIMP2?
Probably arclayer: http://shallowsky.com/software/arclayer/
It's in Python, so it should work on Windows as long as you have
gimp-python enabled.
That script Saul pointed to looks a lot more flexible, though,
especially if you really want the same curve (not concentric curves)
on the top and bottom.
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] Removal of yellow and green eyes
Per Tunedal writes: > I would be happy if there was two more filters: > > remove green eyes and remove yellow eyes. > > Or maybe a filter with an option to chose which colour to remove. I've wanted that too. You can do it the old way (the way we used before the red-eye filter was added in GIMP 2.4): select the pupil, perhaps with the ellipse selection tool, then use something like the Hue-Saturation tool to desaturate and darken. But it doesn't work as well on animal eyes as on human, because animal pupils are often much larger and is very light, and it's hard to make it turn black. Sometimes I have to paint in some black. Also, the animal pupil colors tend to be a lot less saturated than human redeye, so it might be harder to write a tool to select it in an automated way. Anybody have a reliable way to deal with animal greeneye? Please share techniques! ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Fwd: Questions About Creating Panoramas From Several Images
Mark Phillips writes: > > > P.S. I have also tried Hugin, which I could not get to work, [ ... ] > I had a lot of trouble creating the points. I installed Hugin from the > Debian respositories (v 2010.0.0.5045) and out of the box I got the error > message about the non-free point calculating module. I then installed I've found, with Hugin, that either it does brilliantly in automatic mode, finding all the control points and doing all the stitching on its own, or else it fails miserably for no obvious reason and recovering and making it work is quite tricky. I seldom hit cases where setting manual control points makes that much difference, even when the control points it chose seem poorly placed. One failure mode I see a lot turned out to be just the projection: it stitched all the images reasonably but then smushed the result up against the top so you couldn't see anything. I ended up upgrading to a newer version at http://www.tatteredmoons.org/hugin/deb which gave me more options for recovery, but it still ended up being more trouble than it was worth in a lot of cases. I wrote a couple of articles on on it that might help: http://www.linuxplanet.com/linuxplanet/tutorials/7162/1/ http://www.linuxplanet.com/linuxplanet/tutorials/7170/1/ Ofnuts writes: > Your shadow on the seam is caused by a general color mismatch between > the right part of the left image and the left part of the right one. > Creating panoramas requires to set the camera in manual mode to make > sure it won't change exposure parameters between the various shots. And "Requires" is a bit strong -- I've stitched lots of panoramas from handheld auto-exposed sets. It certainly makes it easier. But if you (Mark) have the layer masks in place, you shouldn't get a sharp vertical band where two images meet -- the gradient in the layer mask should take care of that. So it might be worth checking your layer masks (e.g. alt-click on the mask's thumbnail, or use Show Layer Mask) to make sure the gradient is really where you expect. For instance, you can see the sky change color about 1/3 from the left in http://shallowsky.com/images/anasazi/confluence/confluencepan-big.jpg but it's not a sharp band because of the layer mask gradient. Sometimes it helps to make the gradient wider, or to take a big fuzzy brush and paint some grey to make the two areas merge more smoothly. If it's just one image causing the problem, you can use Brightness/Contrast, Levels or Curves on it to make it better match the image next to it; but in a panorama with a lot of images, that gets tedious fast if you want them all to match, and you still end up with color changes like in my confluence pan. > To make it short, assembling panoramas in Gimp is a lot of hard work. [ ... ] > Invest you time in making Hugin work. This will be a lot more rewarding > in the end. I've found that I can usually get reasonably okay looking panoramas from GIMP without too much work, just some fiddling with the gradients and a little hand painting in the mask. But they're not perfect, and I do agree, Hugin does a much better job than you'll get with GIMP. And when Hugin works, it's super easy. These days, I always try Hugin first for panoramas, and I only fall back on GIMP for the occasional set that Hugin won't handle. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Problem with pandora script resolved
Leonard Evens writes: > I had previously posted something saying I had trouble installing the > script > pandora-combine-0.9.3.scm > under gimp 2.6.11 running under Fedora 14. > > To see the resolution of this problem look at > > /registry.gimp.org/node/25080 > > which includes my statement of the problem and a solution. > > It would be nice if someone made a fix to the script at its website. In 2.6.8 from Ubuntu, 2.6.11 from source and 2.7 from git source, I can't reproduce this problem at all. I put pandora-combine-0.9.3.scm in ~/.gimp-2.6/scripts and it registers without any errors, and shows up in Filters->Combine->Arrange as Panorama. I can only guess you have some other script or plug-in installed that's somehow conflicting with Pandora. What other scripts and plug-ins do you have installed locally? I notice both you and the person who replied have gimp installed in /usr/lib64. I wonder if there could be an issue with registering script-fu on a 64-bit install? Renaming script-fu-pandora-combine to script-fu-my-combine makes no sense to me unless you have two different versions of Pandora installed. I don't see why renaming it would make any difference. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp 2.8
billn writes:
> Have the developers given up on 2.8? I understand folks interest changes over
> time. I use to help write code in Apple IIe assemble language. I almost had a
> heart attack on a Christmas day...
You might want to read the gimp-developer list if you want to follow
2.8 development. There's been quite a bit of discussion and planning
going on there lately.
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] Changing a Text Layer
Noel Stoutenburg writes: > If you want to make changes to an existing text layer, in the layer > dialog, make the layer containing the text you want to change the active > layer, and then click on any bit of the text in the layer. [ ... ] > [ ... ] As long as each text element is an > individual text layer, and has not been modified, except for the text > attributes, you can edit the text in the layer. It can be hard to click on part of a text layer, especially if the text is small. Another way to get the text layer attributes back so you can modify them is to right-click on the layer in the Layers dialog and choose the first item in the menu, "Text tool". ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to create jpeg files compatible with a sony camera?
Yannick Patois writes: > When I hack a picture taken with my sony-dsc-s80 camera with the gimp, > if I export in jpg, I cant read its format any more (the camera display > "file error" instead of the hacked content). (and the same with a digital print machine) I wonder if they need EXIF information from the image? EXIF is a way of storing information about a photo (date, exposure information, camera information, thumbnail, etc.) inside a JPEG image. You don't mention what version of GIMP you have (for a while it was preserving EXIF, but that disappeared again in later version, alas) but you might try using another program to compare the exif information between a file straight off the camera and a file you've edited with GIMP. If you have jhead, try: jhead -te camera_img.jpg edited_img.jpg which transfers all the EXIF from the original file to the edited file. Then see if that image works in the camera or print machine. (jhead is in lots of linux distros already, and if not, it's at http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/jhead/ -- the other program, "exif", doesn't appear to have an option to transfer all the EXIF from one file to another, so jhead is probably a better option.) In fact, I just tried that (my husband has a Sony camera) and indeed, copying the EXIF from one of the original files made the camera see the file and got rid of that "file error" message. But here's the catch: the thumbnail that the camera shows is part of the EXIF, so it's showing me the thumbnail from the other image, not from the one I'm actually looking at. And it seems to notice that they're different and not want to zoom in. I think GIMP adds a thumbnail on its own when it saves (at least, I remember seeing a checkbox for that in the JPEG Save As dialog). If you experiment a bit you can probably find a way to copy all the EXIF *except* the thumbnail (leaving that unchanged) so that your Sony will be happy. With any luck GIMP will get better EXIF support eventually, and will be able to handle this on its own ... ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Scaling cartoons
JC Dill writes: > You can resize the image up in "steps" to smooth out the pixelization > and rough edges as you resize it, but you will never regain the missing > detail that was not recorded when the photo was taken at such a low > resolution so the resulting image will be soft. (Sharpening will help Someone asked me recently about scaling up cartoon images (e.g. to turn a small carton image into desktop wallpaper) and had the impression that something like this might work. But I wasn't able to find any information on these techniques on the web. For a cartoon, you start with sharp edges and fairly even colors, so the problems aren't the same as with digital photos. Although you can't get more information than was present in the small image, are there techniques that let you scale up while preserving edges, so for instance a thin sharp black line becomes a thick sharp black line rather than a thick blurry grey line? Scaling up in steps didn't seem to make much difference. I thought perhaps indexing to a small number of colors might help, but I still got too many greys on the edges of the blacks. By playing with Levels I was able to sharpen up the scaled images somewhat, but I wonder if there are better ways. Any tips? ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] compiling on SuSE (was "Add Glow" and "Center Layer")
Manish Singh writes: > But one of Myke's problems was that he managed to get the gimp-devel > package installed without having glib-devel installed. This means that SuSE users trying to get gimp-devel working (e.g. to compile plug-ins) will probably also need to install XFree86-libs-dev. I don't know if it's needed for gimp-perl, but it's needed for some plug-ins and isn't pulled in automatically. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Page Curl filter
Helen writes: > The Page Curl filter -- can it be adjusted so that the page is > "less" curled. Curled only on the corner, for example, or > only a quarter of the page? Try selecting only a part of the page (at the side or corner where you want the curl). You can control how much is curled by adjusting the size and shape of the selection. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Uninstaller?
Mike Williams writes: > Pretty sure that Carol is correct, I've never installed gimp on windows, > but I would be very surprised if the windows installation changed the > associations without asking. The current 2.2 installer asks during the install, and defaults to "no" for all file types except maybe XCF (which of course it should claim). The defaults seem exactly right. Of course, if you check them all on, then GIMP will claim all those file types, but that's an action the user has to take. If there's a case where GIMP makes those file associations even though you didn't select the checkboxes, I'm sure the windows gimp maintainer would want to hear about that. (But GIMPwin-users might be a better place to ask about that.) When we tried it here, it worked fine and didn't claim any image file types it shouldn't have. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Re: Smoothing Brush Strokes
Matthew Whitlock writes: > Carol, I tried looking at indexing. Doesn't seem to effect it. > > Attached is a small image of a quickly drawn cirle that shows > the facetting that I am experiencing. It looks like your system isn't reading all the mouse positions, only getting some of the mouse motion events. There's a configuration option in the gimprc man page that might be related: | (perfect-mouse yes) | |When enabled, the X server is queried for the mouse's current |position on each motion event, rather than relying on the posi- |tion hint. This means painting with large brushes should be |more accurate, but it may be slower. Perversely, on some X |servers enabling this option results in faster painting. Possi- |ble values are yes and no. I don't remember whether you said what platform you were on, but it might be worth adding a line to your gimprc (that's a text file located in your GIMP profile directory -- just edit it when gimp is not running, and add the line) and try both settings to see if one of them makes it better. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Printing success stories? (more info)
Paul Waldo writes: > > I am evaluating gimp on linux as a replacement for Photoshop on Windows. I > > am currently using Photoshop/Windows primarily for the color management > > capabilities. I have tried printing from gimp to my Epson Stylus Photo > > 1280, with horrible results--the colors are off by a significant amount. > > System specifics below. Does anyone out there use gimp for serious > > printing? If so, please let me know your workflow and how you achieve > > color fidelity. Thanks in advance! Have you tried the gimp-print list? There's active development going on with gutenprint, especially with the newer Epson photo printers, and some of the colors are still being tuned. Check the archives to see if your printer is one of the ones updated recently. You might find a lot more people who know about color balance on specific printers on that list. https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/gimp-print-devel I use gimp and gimp-print or gutenprint to print 8x10 wall photos and greeting cards on an Epson C86, which probably isn't what you would consider "serious printing". The colors are usually okay though the default black level is sometimes too high (that might have something to do with the paper; I haven't done much experimenting yet). ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] blue + yellow = green
Robert Citek writes: > I'm slowing getting familiar with gimp/gimpshop. And so I thought I > would try a couple of toy problems. One toy problem is to create a > venn diagram. The resulting image would look something like a Visa > logo, except the colors of the circles would be blue and yellow, with > the intersection being green. Using layer modes, you can get an effect similar to what you're describing: you can make overlapping areas of layers turn colors that reflect the addition or subtraction of the two colors. Unfortunately, blue and yellow don't combine to make green in either addition or subtraction mode; they make white. Think about the RGB values of the colors to understand why -- if you don't know the RGB values of colors off the top of your head, watch the sliders in the color chooser dialog when you select the colors to see how red, green and blue combine to make each color. Blue is 00F, yellow is FF0, and adding them makes white, FFF, instead of green, 0F0. To get a better feel for how colors combine, try this exercise: make a black background layer. On top of it, make three circles, each in its own layer, one colored red, one green, and one blue. Move the circles so that they overlap each other partially but not completely. Now, in the Layers dialog, set each of the three circles to Addition mode and watch how they combine. Play with circles of different colors in different layer modes to see what happens. > To clarify, I'm not looking to select the intersection based on color > and then fill the selection with green, but rather have gimp/gimpshop > imitate what one would do in the real world with color filters, e.g. > acetate[3], and a white light. Subtract mode does basically what colored filters would do to a white light (do the circles exercise I described, but start with a white background instead of black). Addition mode is what you would see if you shone lights of different colors (e.g. a blue light and a yellow light) onto the same surface. Unfortunately, in neither mode will blue and yellow combine to make green, even though that is the combination you'd expect if you're used to mixing paints. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] newbie: does adding transparent square has to be so complicated?
Zhang Weiwu writes: > Hello. After read some GIMP tutorials and practised a little bit, I feel > like that I can make an image like in this example: > > gopher://sdf.lonestar.org/I/users/weiwu/trans_sample.jpeg > > Looks really simple, I can do this image in OpenOffice Draw in 3 mintues: > open the photo, create a shape of rounded square, put it above the photo, > adjust opacity, put text above the rounded square. > > Now this is what I did in GIMP, spending me 4 hours: Yikes! No, it's really easy in GIMP, and it's basically the same steps as in a vector drawing program, except that you have to create the layer explicitly (which a vector drawing program does with every new object). 1. Open the photo. 2. Make a new layer (click the New button in the Layers dialog). 3. Use the rect select tool to select the rectangle. 4. Round the selection with "Rounded Rectangle" (in the Select menu). 5. Fill it with white (Edit->Fill with FG should do it if you haven't changed colors from the default). 6. Adjust opacity with the slider in the Layers dialog. 7. Add the text (which will be a third layer). I didn't quite follow why you were using a layer mask, but it's not needed for a simple task like this. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] torn edge
matt1027 writes:
> Does anyone have any tips or tutorials for making an edge that looks like
> torn paper, ragged and semi-transparent?
Is the script-fu Decor->Fuzzy Border similar to what you're looking for?
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] lcd or crt monitor
Gilles Maltais writes:
> In the past, CRT monitors were considered better because the displayed
> gamut was wider, the color consistency (same color in different areas)
> was better and greater resolutions were offered when compared to LCDs.
For basic low-end displays (the ones you see on display in your
local computer store), all those differences are still true. But you
can get better resolution and better color in an LCD monitor if you
pay for it.
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] Startup values
> On Tue, Apr 04, 2006 at 09:01:18AM -0400, John R. Culleton wrote: > > When I start Gimp 2.3.7 it starts with a paintbrush. I would rather > > it started with the rectangular select tool. Somewhere in > > .gimp-2.3 is a value that sets this option I suspect. But I > > haven't found it yet. Carol Spears writes: > File/Preferences/Tool Options -- make certain that the tool you want > active for each time you start GIMP is active and push the "Save Tool > Options Now" button and also that the "Save Tool Options on exit" toggle > is toggled off. That works for me, but if it doesn't work for you, try the "Input Devices" category of Preferences and click on "Save Input Device Settings Now". That should save the tool, colors, brush, pattern and gradient for each device you have active (even if all you use is the standard mouse). ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Startup values
Carol Spears writes: > On Tue, Apr 04, 2006 at 08:49:52PM -0700, Akkana Peck wrote: > > That works for me, but if it doesn't work for you, try the > > "Input Devices" category of Preferences and click on "Save Input > > Device Settings Now". That should save the tool, colors, brush, > > pattern and gradient for each device you have active (even if > > all you use is the standard mouse). > > > i think this saves a different default pattern, brush, etc. only. > > and also, i think the question was how to make gimp start with a > different tool than it does by default. That saves the tool (as well as the rest) for me. It doesn't for you? ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] centering layers(newbie)
John Minson writes:
> Is there a bult in function to center layes ?
There isn't exactly, but you can cheat: Cut, then Paste. When
pasted, the layer shows up centered instead of where it was before.
...Akkana http://gimpbook.com
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Re: [Gimp-user] Lines and arrowheads in GIMP?
Brad Simmons writes: > I've used GIMP's pencil tool, and as I expected, it draw a thick, very > pixellated line. For me to do callouts, I want a thin, straight line > which will not be so pixellated. This is easy in Photoshop, because it To eliminate the pixellation, use the paintbrush tool (which anti-aliases) rather than the pencil tool. But that doesn't solve the arrow problem. GIMP unfortunately has no tool that creates arrowheads; you either have to draw them by hand, or make a brush or separate image of the arrowhead you want to use; then rotate it appropriately for the line you've drawn. (Googling for gimp arrows got lots of hits for brushes that have already been created, but most of them have static orientation.) It should be possible to make a gimp animated arrowhead brush that's direction sensitive. I think Graphics Muse has something like that: http://www.graphics-muse.com/gfxmuse/gfxarrows.html -- ...Akkana Check out my book, "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional". Now shipping! For more information: http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] re: Drop Shadow Question
Wade Smart writes: > I asked about this Drop Shadow and someone responded back that > I have to click on color button - but I dont have that. > I have from top to bottom: Shadow Blur, Bevel the Image, > Make a drop shadow, x displacement, y displacement, > ok and cancel. It sounds like you're looking at Drop Shadow and Bevel, not Drop Shadow. Those are two completely different plug-ins. Drop Shadow (written in script-fu) has a color button, Drop Shadow and Bevel (written in python) does not. -- ...Akkana Check out my book, "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional". Now shipping! For more information: http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Re: GIMP can induce De Quervain's disease
Jeffrey Brent McBeth writes: > I would consider mouse toggling to be an accessibility issue best dealt with > at a desktop level (GTK/Gnome/Whatever) rather than application specific > hacks. When I saw the original request I was thinking of suggesting a "sticky mouse" option, equivalent to the "sticky keys" option available in X or at the OS level to make modifier keys toggle, for one-handed (or one-fingered) users. But I quickly realized that the cure would be worse than the disease. If you made the left mouse button toggle every time it was clicked, then every one-click operation becomes a two-click operation; your total number of mouse clicks nearly doubles. If you didn't have RSI before then, that would bring it on for sure! So it actually might make sense to implement such a feature separately for drawing tools in graphics programs (as an option, of course). If it was implemented at a systemwide level, it would have to be smarter than merely making clicks sticky; for instance, you could say that any drag of more than [threshold] pixels remains a drag even if the button is released during the drag, until the button is clicked again. -- ...Akkana Check out my book, "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional". Now shipping! For more information: http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Building perspective objects
David Fleming writes: [details of problem with Perspective tool] > or is there a bug here? I am getting a little frustrated with perspective > drawings. In case it isn't one of the problems that has already been suggested: How are you moving the layer? Clicking on the move tool, dragging the layer, then clicking on the perspective tool, or with the spacebar, or some other way? How are you copying the layer? Is it possible that it's a floating layer when you run the perspective tool? (Even then it seems to work for me in 2.2.8 and 2.3.10, but I could imagine it not working in some versions.) Or that you have "Clip result" selected in the Perspective tool? (Though that gives pretty much the opposite result from what you described: the layer is transformed but you can only see the part that falls within the un-transformed layer boundaries.) Definitely check all the tool options in case one of them has been changed. It's possible you're hitting a GIMP bug (what GIMP version are you using?) but I expect a bug like that would have been noticed, so it's probably more likely that there's a problem with tool options, with which layer is selected, or something similar. As I try to reproduce what you're seeing, I'm doing the following (plus variations trying to reproduce the misbehavior): * New Image * Choose the Rect select tool * Select a rectangle * Fill with pattern * Copy (the selection is still active, so this copies the selected rectangle instead of the whole layer, so you can skip the Autocrop Layer step. See the Note at the bottom of p. 154.) * Paste * Click New in Layers dialog * Use Move tool to move it * Choose the Perspective tool * Click on the layer that was just moved * Drag the handles * Click Transform Is that basically the same sequence you've been using? -- ...Akkana Check out my book, "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional". For more information, see http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Re: rect-select: suppress 'expand from center' key or gesture shortcut
Sven Neumann writes: > On Sat, 2006-11-04 at 21:52 -0500, Jeff Kowalczyk wrote: > > Thanks for confirming that it is not intentional behavior, that's all I > > need to hear. > > You misunderstood me. It is of course intentional that you don't need to > use a checkbox in the tool options to do something as important as > creating a rectangle from center. [ ... ] > All I am saying is that the tool is not finished yet If it helps, a little while ago in CVS builds I was seeing (and being frustrated by) the same behavior the original poster mentioned: that the rect and ellipse select tools would frequently and mysteriously snap into "expand from center" mode even when I hadn't pressed any modifier keys, then would stay there. I was sure it must be a bug, or a failed experiment: I have confidence in the folks who are working on improving those tools. And sure enough, it no longer happens in current CVS (and hasn't for the past week or two). It looks like it was just a short-lived bug, now squashed. Rect and ellipse select are working fine now. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Color selectors, which one do you use?
Sven Neumann writes: > Now the question is, which color selectors do you actually use? I have > myself never found the Watercolor selector to be useful. But your > mileage might vary. Tell me about it. I only use the default selector. I like the UI for the triangle selector in theory (maybe because the hue slider is a circle), but in practice it's too slow: it lags way behind my mouse drags, even on my fastest machine. I don't find the others very useful. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] CD Labels
Michael Satterwhite writes: > I was going to burn some Gimp CD's to distribute at our IBM (Brotherhood > of Magicians - not Business Machines) Ring. Does anyone know of any CD > labels that someone has made? Would look better than me just writing > "Gimp" on the front with a sharpie. I have a script-fu to make the template: http://shallowsky.com/software/cdplugins/ I haven't used it in years, since I found out what sticky labels do to CD longevity (I lost a bunch of vacation photos I'd burned only a couple of years earlier), but for handing out festive CDs to a group, labels do make sense and they're fun to make. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Copy the alpha channel from an image to another
Michael J. Hammel writes: > On Mon, 2007-02-12 at 23:50 -0800, "Germain Le Chapelain" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I would like to know who to copy the alpha channel of an image to > > another image. > > 1. Merge visible layers of the source image. > 2. Copy visible layer of source image > 3. Create new image for destination (as in File->New). > 4. Add a layer to destination image > 5. Delete background layer in destination image > 6. Add black layer mask to only layer left in destination image. > 7. Make black layer mask active drawable. > 8. Paste into destination image. > 9. Anchor to active drawable (re: mask). > 10. Apply layer mask. That doesn't quite work for me, because the contents of the source image get applied to the layer mask too (where the source image was blue but opaque, the destination won't be fully opaque). But you can fix that by adding two steps: between steps 1 and 2, turn on Keep Transparency (checkbox in the Layers dialog, called Lock in 2.3) for the source image, then fill the source image with white. Then copy, and what you paste later into the dest image's layer mask will reflect only the alpha channel of the original. (Don't get too put off by the number of steps. I skipped steps 4 and 5, but I was only using single layer images; maybe they're important for the general case. And I skipped step 7 because it happens automatically from step 6.) This doesn't actually give you an image with an alpha channel, as the OP asked; it gives you a layer with a layer mask that mimics the original image's alpha channel. But "Merge visible layers" will turn that layer mask into an alpha channel if you care about the difference. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP won't support installed printer?
Dave M G writes: > (On a side note, when I scan my installed packages, I don't even see > Gimp-Print 4.2. It seems like I *only* have Gutenprint 5.0 installed. So > why is GIMP saying, in the "About" button in the print interface) that > I'm using 4.2? It might be that your GIMP is including an old gimp-print plug-in from 4.2, but the larger package which includes all the printer drivers is Gutenprint. A little checking with dpkg -S, dpkg -L and aptitude search might solve that mystery if you're on Ubuntu as your signature suggests. (I'd check here for you, but I have gutenprint built from source and have probably overwritten some of the original files.) I think they're compatible (must be, if the distro installs them that way) but the experts who would know for sure aren't here; they're on the gimp-print/gutenprint devel list. https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/gimp-print-devel They'd also be the ones who would know whether or not a particular printer model is supported. Glance at the archives first (at that same url) to see if anyone has talked about your printer model recently. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] gimp or inkscape?
Alex Feldman writes: > I have limited experience with Gimp, almost all of it with photographs, > and essentially none with Inkscape. I want to make some simple maps of > trails in the area, and mark them with mileages and a few comments. My > plan was to download the photographs of the area from Google Earth, put > a layer over it, and trace out the trails. Then I can stretch or shrink > the image and add the decorations and commentary. > > My question is, which is the best tool for this? Or is there a better > way to do it than what I am describing? Thanks for the help. Since you're starting with a bitmapped image anyway (a satellite photo), GIMP is fine. Any problems you get from rescaling the trails will also be problems when rescaling the image, so you wouldn't get any advantage from using Inkscape. I've used GIMP to make map overlays: for instance, a topographic map layer, a trail map (converted from the park's online PDF), and a geologic map layer (converted from a USGS PDF). Then I can adjust the transparencies and colors of all the layers depending on which combination I want to print out for a specific project. It's a lot of work getting everything scaled just right (it would be so much easier if this info was all available in open GIS formats that worked in free mapping software ... maybe some day!) but the results can be very useful. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] cropping respecting ratio
Fabrizio Lippolis writes: > I use GIMP working on digital images and I often need to crop images > respecting the original ratio. Is there any easy way to do it? To > perform this task I reduce the length for example, then I calculate how > many pixels should be in height respecting the ratio with that length, > then I crop again the height. This is rather boring so I am asking. > Thanks in advance. The "Keep aspect ratio" toggle in the Crop tool's tool options is what you want. Unfortunately, in 2.2 "Keep aspect ratio" is tricky to use: you turn it on, then drag in the image to crop and the checkbox turns off again! It only works if you check it on after you've started the crop, and by that time the crop rectangle is already the wrong aspect ratio. Here's a workaround: click in the image. The crop dialog comes up. In the dialog, click "From Selection": this will set the crop rectangle to the whole image. Then go to the tool options and enable "Keep aspect ratio". Now you can adjust the upper left and lower right of the crop rectangle and it will maintain the image's aspect ratio. This will all get a lot better in 2.4, with any luck. The crop tool has been completely redesigned and is much better than 2.2 already, though the aspect ratio part of it still needs some work. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] (no subject)
Alex Feldman writes: > Gthumb almost gives me a nice way to do this, presenting me with a > page of thumbnails that I can select from, and then rotate the selected > ones all at once. Trouble is, you then have to go through and > individually save each image to get it to "take". Does anyone know of a > tool that that will make this as painless as possible? jpegtran is what you want. It can rotate jpegs losslessly: just tell it how much (90, 180, 270). ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to spot fix a large area that is too light
> DJ wrote: > > My latest problem. I have a very nice black and white photo of a > > couple. The only problem is the man's right arm and part of his chest > > are too light. I tried using the cloning and smudge tool, but it Andrew writes: > If that's really all you want, do just that. Use the rectange select > tool and then Brightness-Contrast in the Colour Tools. (Other ways of > selecting might give you better results, though.) If the rectangle doesn't line up quite right, try other selection shapes too, like the free select (lasso) tool. Whatever shape you use, you'll almost certainly want to add a lot of feathering to the selection, otherwise you'll see a very sharp line at the edge of the part you darkened. If the area to be darkened isn't too large, you might get better results with the Dodge/Burn tool, since this is exactly what it's made for. To darken an area, set it to "Burn" rather than "Dodge" (I know that seems backward -- it has to do with old paper darkrooms), and set Mode to either Midtones or Highlights depending on how bright the area is to begin with. (Experiment with both and see which works best). You'll probably want a large fuzzy brush. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Clone Tool Not Responding as Expected
Don Selkirk writes: > I am using GIMP 2.2.15 in Windows XP. My clone tool has stopped > responding as I expect. [ ... ] > Now when I hold the left mouse button to start cloning the cross hairs > appear under my mouse pointer instead of the area I selected for > cloning. The image does not change. You may have changed the clone tool's Alignment option (in tool options) to Registered. Change it back to Non-aligned and see if your problem goes away. (Registered is useful when cloning from a different image or layer, but if you're cloning from the same layer, it will seem to do nothing, just as you describe.) -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Using Wacom Graphire 4 in GIMP (Mac OS X/X11)
Victor Domingos writes: > I am testing a Wacom Graphire 4 tablet in my Mac (PPC) and > appearently I can't use its pressure sensitivity in GIMP. Has anyone > managed to use a graphics tablet in GIMP, under Mac OS X? Is X11 for > Mac compatible with this feature? My understanding is that Apple's X11 doesn't support tablets (so a tablet will look like an ordinary mouse), but the open-source version of X11 does support at least some tablets. I don't have a Mac myself, so I'm just passing on what I've been told. Any Mac users able to fill in the details? -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] galen rowell filter?
> On 8/6/07, Rei Shinozuka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > is there a (relatively) simple way to add a "galen rowell" filter. > > that's the late national geographic photographer to made great use > > out of graduated color filters to bring out the colors in sunset, David Gowers writes: > otherwise: no, by the time you have scanned in the film it is already > too late (GR filter effects the perception of the camera) > > Anyway, it's probably better to use an HDR tool rather than GIMP, Sure, that's probably better; but with a lot of images you can bring out much more vibrant color simply by using tools like brightness/ contrast, levels or curves, or by overlaying the image with itself and playing with layer modes. So to get a graduated filter effect, try making a duplicate layer with a layer mask, then draw a black/white gradient on the layer mask. Then you can operate on just the sky part using the various brightness tools. You could also use a graduated selection (e.g. draw a gradient on the quickmask), but if you use a separate layer with a layer mask you can change the "graduated filter" after the fact, making it more gradual, or lower, or cutting out that tree sticking up above the horizon, or whatever other editing you need, without losing the contrast effect you've already done on the sky. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] I need to know how much was cropped with autocrop
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > While looking into this, I notice that autocropping an image uses the > active layer, not the projection, to determine the resultant image > boundaries. (Would this be a bug?) If you want a plug-in that crops the image according to the contents of all layers, not just the active one, I have one: http://shallowsky.com/software/gimp/autocropall.c -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to set default value for Script-Fu scripts?
Manuel Reimer writes: > Hello, > > I know, that it's possible to set a default value while > "script-fu-register", but is it also possible to set a default value, > based on some information fetched by a small script? One thing I've done is calculate the default value before calling script-fu-register. But of course that doesn't help if you want a new default calculated each time the dialog comes up based on some property of the image; you can only calculate a one-time application-wide default that way. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] 2.4 Print dialog
Thomas Worthington writes: > > Is there any way to get the print dialog in 2.4 to work like the old > > Gimp-Print one? The new one is hopeless: doesn't list my printers (which norman writes: > that I haven't yet got Gimp 2.4.1 installed as there is nothing yet for > non-techies using Ubuntu. However, according to the image in Akkana > Peck's book it looks the same as in earlier versions of Gimp as does the > page in Gimp 2.4 rc3. The new GTK print system wasn't introduced into GIMP until after "Beginning GIMP" went to press, so the dialogs shown in the book are the Gutenprint ones, not the new default print dialog that comes from GTK. > > I assume that the print dialog in 2.4 is a placeholder for soemthing else > > but I don't know what. Should I be using Gutenprint now? You can still get the Gutenprint plug-in from the project's web site http://gutenprint.sourceforge.net/ -- or you may be able to install it as part of your distro. Ubuntu Gutsy seems to install Gutenprint by default, instead of the gtk print plug-in, but I don't know what other distros are doing with 2.4. You can have both installed -- they'll show up in the File menu as "Print" and "Print with Gutenprint". I use Gutenprint myself, because of the control it gives me over resolution, paper type, and placement on the page, its live preview, and because GTK print is still a bit buggy; but GTK's print has improved quite a bit recently, so it may yet become usable. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Dislike new crop tool
Adam Wieland writes:
> I liked that the box
> came up showing the dimensions of your image as it was changing. I
> needed this to be able to crop perfect squares.
I just watch the numbers that show in the tool options. Much more
convenient than the old dialog that always came up on top of the image,
since tool options stay docked beneath the Toolbox.
And the Fixed: Aspect Ratio works great for keeping it square
(or 4x3 or whatever other aspect ratio I need). I find fixed aspect
ratios SO much easier now with the new crop tool.
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] Feathered selections
Leon Brooks GIMP writes: > So I started wondering: is it feasible to do something like > make the selection's borders gently more fuzzy or > translucent when a selection is feathered? I'm assuming you're talking about the "marching ants" when you say selection borders, and it's an interesting suggestion, though it might take a UI person to decide exactly how they should change to indicate fuzziness. But there's a solution for your friend in the meantime: the Quickmask. Click on that inconspicuous little square down at the bottom left of the image window, in the corner between the scrollbar and the ruler. That switches to Quickmask mode, in which anything that is *not* selected is red. You can see fuzzy borders really well with the quickmask -- I often use it when I want to check whether I've feathered a selection enough. Click in the same place (now it looks like a red square) to get out of quickmask mode. While you're in quickmask mode, you can also do useful things like changing the selection by painting with the various paint tools. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Alt Key
> Sven Neumann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > >You enter the desired aspect > >ratio in the Crop tool options, like 16:9, and it will use that whenever > >you press Shift (or lock the ratio using the check button next to the Jeffery Small writes: > In my 2.4.2 version running on Solaris 10/SPARC under gnome, the check-box > does lock the crop aspect ratio. But if the check box is not selected, no > key, including shift, seems to lock the aspect ratio For me (on Linux), Shift locks the aspect ratio, but only if I press it after I start dragging. If I hold Shift before I start the drag, it doesn't do anything as far as I can tell. Is that intentional? That said, I love the new crop tool. I do a lot of fixed aspect ratio crops, and it's SO much easier now than it was with 2.2. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] new cute python line drawing script
Alex Feldman writes:
> I haven't upgraded to 2.4 yet. Is the notion of an active vector new to
> 2.4, or is it something I have been missing all along?
Try making a path with two disconnected parts.
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] digital camera photo settings
Owen writes: > AFAIK, there was an exif plugin for the Gimp, but I can't find it now. There was an exif reading plug-in on the old registry (I forget who wrote it -- Simon Budig?) It was read-only; it couldn't change an image's exif. It doesn't seem to be on the new registry. Is there any way to get to the old registry to grab a copy of older plug-ins? (It's great that the new registry has moved to registry.gimp.org -- it's much better than the old one, but I hope that doesn't mean we've lost all the plug-ins in the old registry's database.) The exif plug-in as it existed on the old registry didn't work with GIMP 2.4. I updated it a while back and got it working for reading exif, but it looked like it would be a big job to make it read/write and I dropped it. If anyone wants it, I could upload the version I updated later this week (right now I'm away from the machine that has the source). The updates were pretty straightforward. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] digital camera photo settings
Michael Schumacher writes: > > Von: Akkana Peck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Is there any way to get to the old registry to grab a copy of > > older plug-ins? > > Yes, there is. The link to the archive is given in the switch announcement: > http://registry.gimp.org/node/235 Thanks! The old exif-browser plug-in is available at: http://registry-archive.fargonauten.de/plugin?id=4153 Bill (William Skaggs) is the author, according to the AUTHORS file in the source. I found I needed to update it to get it to build and run. I've put a diff at http://shallowsky.com/tmp/exif-browser/exif-browser.diff and a tarball of the updated plug-in at http://shallowsky.com/tmp/exif-browser/exif-browser-updated.tar.gz Note the /tmp/ in those paths -- this plug-in should really live in the registry, not on my site. But the new registry isn't letting me log in right now (should the login info from fargonauten.de carry over?) In any case I want to wait and see if Bill wants to list it under his own name. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] 300 dpi screen capture
Michael J. Hammel writes: > On Fri, 2008-02-22 at 23:41 +0100, Daniel Hornung wrote: > > But maybe one of the > > actual book writers on this list may tell you more. *hint* > > I guess that's my cue. :-) Me too :-) except Michael has already covered it so well. The only thing I'll add is that when I first started, I was worried about one of Apress' guidelines that said they wanted a particular dpi, so I started out being careful to set the dpi after taking screenshots. I was also sending high-resolution versions of non-screenshot images. Once we got rolling, it turned out that their layout people scaled each image to an appropriate size on the page, and nobody really cared what dpi the images claimed to have. As long as I took normal GIMP screenshots of reasonably-sized windows, everybody was happy. The Apress style guide also had warnings about not using Windows Print Screen, and more warnings about various other programs to avoid under Windows (mostly color depth issues, I believe). None of that was a problem with the GIMP screenshots, which worked fine. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional" http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Q: How to apply transparent gradient to image?
D. R. Evans writes: > I have a simple PNG image, and I'd like to change the top half so that at > the very top the image is completely transparent, with the opacity > increasing linearly so that halfway down the image (and all the way to the > bottom) the image has 100% opacity. > > I've messed with layers and gradients until I want to scream -- I can't > find the trick that allows me to do this. (It seems like it should be dead > easy.) > > Could someone please point me toward something that describes how to do this? - Make a layer mask (Layer->Mask->Add Layer Mask..., or you can use the context menu in the Layers dialog). Let it default to White (full opacity). - Click on the gradient (blend) tool in the Toolbox. Make sure your fg/bg colors are Black and White (the defaults) and that the gradient is FG to BG (the default). - In the image window, hold the Ctrl key down, then mouse down anywhere along the very top of the image, and drag straight down (the Ctrl key will make it easy to stay exactly vertical) to the middle of the image, then release the mouse button. You're basically done (it should be transparent just as you described), but you'll probably want one more step: - In the Layers dialog, click on the tiny preview that shows your image, to make sure that it and not the layer mask next to it is active. You want the image preview to be outlined in white, and the mask preview to be outlined in black, not vice versa. (This saves you from getting "You are about to save a layer mask" errors when you save.) If you save it as anything but .xcf, you'll probably get warnings about how layer masks aren't preserved, but don't worry about those. If you don't want to see them you can Flatten before you save. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to make text fit a shape, not just follow a path?
Shin Diggar writes: > It's something that's very common on badges and logos, and here is a mock-up > I made to simulate what I'd like GIMP to do for me: > > http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4541/textsr9.png Curve Bend (under Distorts) does exactly that. You can set the upper and lower shapes separately. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP template and tutorial for designing business card
satimis writes: > I have been googling a while searching for Gimp template and tutorial to > design business card without result, only Photoshop tutorial found. Can any > folk point me to the right direction. TIA I've made business cards with GIMP: I wrote a script to generate an image of the right aspect ratio, then another script to take one such image and turn it into an image with the right aspect ratio to be a US-Letter sized page to print with gutenprint. (It also does various other types of labels, not just business cards.) You might have to adjust the offsets a bit for your templates and printer. Here are the scripts: http://shallowsky.com/software/gimplabels/ To be honest, it's probably easier most of the time to use a program that's designed for making labels and business cards, like gLabels; or design one business card in gimp then import it into gLabels for printing (or Open Office, even). Anyway, lots of options. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] subtract selection control
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Quoting ChadDavis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > > > I've got a rectangle selection. Now, I am trying to do a subtractive > > selection within that rectangular selection, to make a sort of picture frame > > selection. The problem is that I'm having trouble getting the inner, > > substractive selection centered within the first rectangle. > > Draw your larger selection and save it to a channel. > > Check the "Expand from center" option in the tool's Option dialog and > then click inside the selection to activate the drag handles[*]. Use > the handles to resize your rectangle. > > Invert your selection and then intersect it with the previously saved > channel (CTL+SHIFT the red button next to the trashcan in the Channels > dialog). Here's a simpler method (no need for saving to a channel) that I thought would work, but doesn't, and I'm not clear why: 1. Make the first selection. Click inside the rectangle to confirm it. 2. In the Rect Select tool options, switch to Subtract mode, Expand from Center, and Fixed Aspect Ratio (current). 3. Click in the rectangle again to bring back the resize handles. 4. Resize to define the smaller rectangle (which will be subtracted from the larger one. The problem: when you first start the drag from a resize handle in step 4, the boundaries jump to a rectangle that's not concentric with the current one, with the positions seemingly random (at least, I can't see any regularity to which handle creates jumps in which direction). Is that a bug? If it's not, why does it happen? (I'm seeing this with the Ubuntu gimp 2.4.5.) ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] gimpshop breaks Gimp 2.4 in Ubuntu Hardy Heron
Robert Kennedy writes: > > After more testing and investigation, it looks like AWN is NOT to > blame in breaking the gimp in Hardy Heron [ ... ] > But then I did a "sudo ldconfig". Then gimp stopped working. (But > gimpshop still worked). If you did a "ldd `which gimp-2.4`", you would > see the gimp loading some (but not all) libraries from /usr/local/lib > where gimpshop installed libraries. [ ... ] > So it does look like a packaging issue. The gimpshop package should be > modified to show a conflict with gimp. But since the gimpshop project > appears to be dead that is not likely to happen. It's a fairly well known problem, at least among people who maintain both a locally built gimp and the one installed from their distro. The current 2.5 release notes have a reasonable description of what's happening (which also apply to gimpshop or any version of gimp you might want to build yourself while still keeping a system-installed version), and how to fix it: http://www.gimp.org/release-notes/gimp-2.5.html (scroll down to "Installation"). Whoever builds that gimpshop packageshould probably be doing this, though maybe they just assume that no one would ever want both gimp and gimpshop on the same system (but in that case, it should be marked as a conflict in the package dependencies, as you say). Failing that, you could probably fix it by moving all the gimpshop stuff to some other place and using a script like the one in the 2.5 release notes. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Empty skull, vacated because I can't crop an image and its driving me to drink.
Gene Heskett writes: > I'm back again, trying to crop an image, again, yet, still. > > I can cut and cut and cut till I have what I want, but not even the zealous > crop will get rid of the image area cut, it is still part of the image even [ ... ] > Darnit, I want to see the crosshatch indicating no data at all exists in that > area once I have selected it and cut it away. If I can do it in the darkroom I'm not understanding you any more than the other two people who have already replied, but I have a couple of guesses: First, the magic word for "crosshatch indicating no data at all exists" is "transparent" or "alpha" (never mind why "alpha" means "transparent"; remembering it will make a lot of other things easier). If you're cutting things out of an image and getting white (or some other color) when you wanted to see the grey checkerboard pattern, that means your image doesn't have an "alpha channel" (in other words, it doesn't allow transparency). Add one with Layer->Transparency->Add Alpha Channel. If that's greyed out, then you already have an alpha channel and that's not the problem. Second, though you're saying "crop" I get the impression you might actually be trying to select stuff and clear it (make it transparent). Crop is when you start with a big image (e.g. 800x600), and you want to take only some rectangular portion of it, to make a smaller but still rectangular image. If you're trying to end up with a shape that's not rectangular -- e.g. cut away all the white area around some central object to make everything transparent except the object -- then crop is not what you want. In that case, what you want is to select the part you want to cut away and do Edit->Clear (which will make it transparent *if* your image already has an alpha channel, otherwise it will just make it whatever background color you have set). Alternately, select just the object you want, and do Edit->Copy so you can paste it somewhere else. If none of us has guessed right about what you're trying to do and you're still frustrated, try telling us what sort of image you're starting with and explaining the steps you *are* following, what happens and what you expected to happen. That might clear things up. -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional" http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Identify old GIMP font
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] (2008-10-27 at 1842.17 +0100): > > That looks like one of the "Fixed" fonts shipped with the X-Server. > > > > Since Gimp no longer uses the X11-mechanisms for font selection it no > > longer shows up in the font dialog. You need to somehow convince > > fontconfig to provide that font as well. GSR - FR writes: > Modern fontconfig has /etc/fonts/ dir with config options and where (and pointing to the README there) On Debian and Ubuntu, you can probably get the bitmapped X fonts back by going to /etc/fonts/conf.d, removing the symlink to ../conf.avail/70-no-bitmaps.conf and replacing it with a symlink to ../conf.avail/70-yes-bitmaps.conf. Depending on the distro, you might also need to uncomment or comment a section in /etc/fonts/fonts.conf (I don't see anything relevant in Hardy, but I remember needing to make a change there in some past versions). ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] sky question
Marco Presi writes: > If you want to artificially change the colors, I think the best way to > do it, is to do it in a selective manner: > > 1) duplicate the layer of the original photo > 2) change the color of the duplicate layer by using the color balance > tool to reach the sky tonality you want (don't pay attention to want > happens to the rest of the photo) > 3) apply a layer mask to the modified layer (hiding all the modified > layer) > 4) select a brush with proper dimensions and draw with it over the layer > mask: this will reveal the modified layer. If you draw only over the sky > region, you will obtain the sky with your colors, while keeping the rest > of the image with original colors. You can play with different brushes > and different brush settings (I found the opacity setting very useful) > and see how to get the best results If you get tired of drawing manually on the layer mask to keep only the sky, there are ways of getting GIMP to select the sky for you. Basically, you use Decompose to split the image into various aspects (hue/saturation/value, red/green/blue or sometimes others) then use one or more of those layers to help you make a layer mask. There used to be a wonderful tutorial on that technique by Jenny Drake, but unfortunately the site is no longer online. The Internet Archive has the text of the tutorial but no inline images, but you can read the text here: http://web.archive.org/web/20050313031704/http://www.photojenic.co.uk/home-page/gimp-sky-colour.html And Carol Spears wrote a good tutorial based on it which *does* have images: http://carol.gimp.org/gimp2/photography/sky/compose/ If you can forgive a brief commercial note, there will be a couple of examples of the same technique in the 2nd edition of Beginning GIMP (expected in late December). Now that I see Jenny's tutorial is gone, maybe I'll try to find time to put some of it into a web tutorial ... -- ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional" http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Puzzle about my version of gimp
Martin Nordholts writes: > Leonard Evens wrote: > > I recently upgraded my main computer to Fedora 9 from Fedora 7. When I > > brought gimp up and clicked on 'about' under Help, a window came up > > claiming it is gimp 2.4.1. But the package is designated 2-2.4.7, from > > which I conclude it is really gimp 2.4.7. > > Help -> About is much more reliable than the package name. Also, run gimp --version from a terminal and compare that to what Help->About tells you. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to update GIMP in Ubuntu?
> > How do I upgrade to v 2.6.x of Gimp on Ubuntu? > > I don't think you are going to be able to do this. > > To do so requires a number of updated libraries, glib,gtk, babl and > gegl are 4 off the top of my head and I am pretty sure the 8.04 > repositories wont hold these. > > You can do it by building your own libraries from the sources, but I > guess you don't want to do that I'm building GIMP 2.6 on Ubuntu 8.04 and it's really no big deal. You don't need the whole gtk+ chain -- the ones installed on 8.04 are fine. You do need babl and gegl and there are a couple minor gotchas there. I have the complete list of packages you'll need here: http://shallowsky.com/linux/gimpbuild.html ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Bubble effect
Dave 77459 writes: > Thanks for the pointer. Do you have a recommendation for settings? > GIMPressionist seems to overlap brushes, rather than varying the size to fit > available spaces without overlap. The "Marble madness" preset in GIMPressionist does something similar to your example, but with a more 3-d look. If you explicitly don't want the 3-d you might be able to get rid of it by playing with the settings. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Cropping to multiple aspect ratios (was Using "Tool Options" in Scripts)
Frank Barknecht writes: > I have to do some tedious work, namely crop many images to four aspect > ratios: 4:3, 3:4, 1:1 and 4:1. For each image I need to select > the picture detail to preserve manually, so this cannot be automated. [ ... ] > I already saved some Tool Presets for setting the options to 4:3, 3:4, > ... aspect ratios, but it seems, Tool Options can only be restored by > using the Mouse, which I'd like to avoid as much as possible. Is there [ ... ] > Any other hints how to make my job less tedious? I do that a lot too -- making desktop backgrounds for monitors of several different sizes -- and I'm always irritated by how many steps it takes. I had never actually used those Save Tool Options presets, and your message made me look into them -- I should have done that long ago! It helps with the most tedious step. But still, there are quite a few steps left, so it's still tedious. Getting this far inspired me to try to automate more of the job, and the result is a python script: http://shallowsky.com/software/gimp/wallpaper.py The script has a list of resolutions it knows about (1680x1050, 1024x768, 1366x768 and so forth). You use rect select in the original image (using tool presets to set the aspect ratio correctly) and make a rectangular selection. Then call the script, which registers in Image->Selection to Wallpaper. The script compares its list of resolutions with the selection's aspect ratio and picks the closest one. Then it copies the selection, pastes it as a new image, and scales it to what it thinks is the right size based on the aspect ratio. The original image is still there so you can go back and do the next size/aspect ratio. I know your task is a little different -- you don't have the Scale step, so my script might not help you much. And using rect select isn't really as good as using crop, because rect select doesn't stop at the edges of the image, so you have to be super careful not to go over when you make the selection. (I'll probably add something to the script to correct for that, as well as adding something to save automatically to a directory chosen based on the size.) But I thought I'd share the script since it might give you ideas, or might help someone else who does desktop backgrounds like I do. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] labels (was: Change ruler to inches)
Carusoswi writes: > Also, although I was meticulous in measuring for and laying out the template, > my cards did not line up with the pre-cut forms that we had purchased. Martin already answered your questions about units, so I'll just address this part. I've done business cards and labels in gimp (http://shallowsky.com/software/gimplabels/) and they can line up if you get the distances right. You have to make sure you have an image that matches the size of your paper, and get the offsets right, of course. I've tried to do labels where I made the image size match up to the outer edges of the outer labels, then set the offsets in gutenprint, and it was frustrating and never worked right. I've only printed with gutenprint, where it's easy to see when you're printing a full page with zero margins on any corner. I couldn't get the same amount of control through gtkprint, though it's gotten a *lot* better in the last few releases and maybe it would work now. Another option, if you have trouble with gtkprint not lining up, is to print to postscript or PDF, preview it to make sure the page size and margins are what you expect, then print that from another app. Also, my inkjet printer (YMMV) varies quite a lot from page to page, so even if I create a perfect template at the perfect size, printed labels may not register exactly with the label sheet. So you need to make sure any text doesn't go all the way out to the edges of the label, and that any background is wide enough to spill over the edges quite a bit. Drawing a neat box just inside the edges is right out, unfortunately. Maybe some printers are better at that. > That is not to knock Gimp. I knew from the start that Gimping the project > was the long way around - but I wanted the experience. I feel I was almost That's exactly the right attitude. There are lots of apps designed for printing labels and business cards, but I like having the option of making them in GIMP because it gives me the option of printing at high quality and high resolution. I always keep in mind that this isn't really what gimp is for, so if I have to do a little extra fiddling compared to glabels, it's my choice. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Snap to Guides by default
malefico writes: > >> I wonder if there is any way to turn off the "Snap to Guides" option [ ... ] > Thank you David, I know where the option is, but it is always on by > default. Is there any way to turn it off by default ? So when Gimp > starts it is unchecked ? In GIMP 2.6, no. In GIMP 2.7, yes (as of a couple of weeks ago), but so far only by editing your gimprc. A patch has been submitted to add it to the prefs dialog but that has to be reviewed by the UI team ... I don't know if Peter has had a chance to think about it yet. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Green Stripes On Tools?
STINGER wibblywobblyteapot.co.uk writes: > If I use the paths tool and drag to move I get a horrible green mess of > breadcrumbs where the tool has been. I also get this on any other tools > when moving around. I've tried it on two different machines now (both > running Ubuntu) and I can't stop it. Do the green lines go away if you redraw the window? (For example, cover it with another window then uncover it.) Do the two machines have similar video cards? Artifacts like that are usually bugs in the video driver. I see them sometimes with ATI graphics cards, especially older Radeons. They usually seem to come from drawing with an XOR operation ... apparently some video drivers, especially the ati/radeon driver, can't handle that quite right. (It may be the hardware not handling it right -- looking at bugzilla it looks like the problem happens with ATI cards on Windows as well.) Here's a bugzilla bug that discussed the problem, some time back, with lots of duplicates, some of which have screenshots that look a lot like yours: http://bugzilla.gnome.org/show_bug.cgi?id=421466 A comment in that bug suggests adding the following line to your gimprc file (located in your gimp profile, ~/.gimp-2.6/gimprc): (xor-color (color-rgb 1.0 1.0 1.0)) Try that and see if it helps. Good luck! ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to import Photoshop .pat files?
> > So I tried that, but still NOTHING. Question, It IS with the bucket fill > > tool > > that I should be able to access the .pat files right? DJ writes: > Yes and no. There is also the Patterns Dialog (see more below). [ lots more info about where to view your GIMP patterns, but not on how to import these particular patterns. ] The problem in this case may be that a lot of those patterns on http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2009/02/12/the-ultimate-collection-of-free-photoshop-patterns/ aren't GIMP compatible. For instance, I tried the "animal prints" one, http://redheadstock.deviantart.com/art/Animal-Prints-PS-Patterns-37342057 and although it supposedly includes 18 patterns, I got a zip file that expanded to just one file, SS-animalprints-patterns.pat. If I put that file in ~/.gimp-2.6/patterns/ it's ignored, and if I try to open the file in GIMP I get "GIMP pattern plug-in could not open image". I get the same for the brick textures pattern. Has GIMP's support of PS patterns changed? The animal print page says it should be compatible with GIMP 2.2.6+. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to import Photoshop .pat files?
Alec Burgess writes: > To get them created individually it looks like [Filters-Animation-Save > Layers] does the trick. If renumbering make sure to include enough ~'s > to cover total number of pattern files being written and specify an > extension] eg: > "/devart_PS_pats_~~~.pat" (If insufficient > ~'s in the file-spec an error is generated. > This is "script-fu-save-anim-layers" by Saul Goode 3/11/2008 - not sure > if it "came-with" GAP or I got it somewhere else? > > Ok ... this "sort-of" worked :-( [ ... ] > Any suggestions as to how to get the job finished? ie. each layer needs > to be cropped I think. > I guess this needs a new script or tweaks to Saul Goode's > "script-fu-save-anim-layers" but unfortunately I have zero ability in > that area. Okay, done. I started with save-anim-layers, but then during the course of simplifying it to deal only with patterns I ended up rewriting pretty much the whole thing. http://shallowsky.com/software/gimp/save-pat-layers.scm It still registers in Animation, as "Save layers as patterns". Animation isn't the right place for it but it wasn't obvious what would be better. Any thoughts? Start with the original multi-layer image and run Animation-> Save layers as patterns, and it will save each of the layers to your GIMP profile patterns directory with the appropriate layer name. I've only tested it on one pattern (the animal one) but it seems to work. It does change the original image -- the layers stay autocropped, I didn't bother to try to revert them since I figure most people will just be closing that image anyway. I'll put it on the registry after I get feedback on whether it's working okay for anyone besides myself. I'd especially like to hear whether it works on Windows, since it builds up paths with "/" (which I think script-fu is supposed to translate automatically). ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] File > Open Location - No such file or directory
DJ writes: > Whenever I have used File > Open Location, I've gotten an error. I > thought I'd revisit it again while going through a tutorial on > blending modes. I got the same error, No such file or directory. Yet, > I can right-click and "Save Image As" with no problem. I got the url > by right-clicking and "Copy Image Location". > > I searched, but did not see anything. You don't mention what platform you're on, or what version of GIMP or where you got it. But GIMP has several different ways of opening remote files -- gvfs, gnome-vfs, libcurl, wget -- and if your gimp is compiled to use a method you don't have, that'll cause errors. The choice is made at compile time; the runtime code doesn't fall back to use other methods if the preferred method fails. For instance, Ubuntu's GIMP is compiled to need gvfs, so if you don't have that installed (for instance, if you're running Xubuntu or some other window manager instead of a Gnome desktop) then Open Location or dragging from a browser probably won't work unless you build your own gimp with --without-gvfs. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Chalk Logo doesn't work.
John Culleton writes: > I am making a chart of all the different logos under the > File>Create>Logos submenu. The Chalk Logo doesn't seem to work. I see the same thing. The problem is the Sobel filter. If you go through the steps in chalk.scm by hand, everything is fine until the point where it calls plug-in-sobel, at which point the text vanishes. Apparently the Sobel filter in 2.6 (which is very different from the 2.4 Sobel) doesn't work on transparent layers any more -- in other words, it won't detect edges in alpha, only in colors. If you duplicate the black background layer and merge it with the white chalk layer before running Sobel, or set the background color to white and then remove alpha on the text layer, it works. I don't know whether that change to Sobel was intentional. I've filed a bug: http://bugzilla.gnome.org/show_bug.cgi?id=590418 ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] How to move image when selecting?
Patrick Horgan writes: > If you're trying to use the lasso it's frustrating like that, you have to do > the whole thing in one complex wack. If instead you use the path tool you can (and in another message) > In my link to the selection tutorial I should have given credit to Akkana Peck > whose tutorial it is, and noted that her book: Beginning GIMP: from novice to > professional ROCKS And also she helps people out here all the time and > deserves a lot of credit for being such a good citizen of the net. Thanks! What a nice thing to say. :-) I should probably mention that that LinuxChix class is old (I think it was based on GIMP 2.2) and in 2.6, the Lasso tool is *much* easier to use. You no longer have to select in one go -- you can drag for a while, stop, scroll the view, drag some more. You can also mix freehand dragging with clicking to make line segments, like you would with the Path tool. It's like the best parts of the old Lasso combined with Paths. I never used the old Lasso tool much, because I couldn't zoom in and scroll around while selecting, but in 2.6 I use it quite a lot. If you haven't used the new Lasso because you didn't like the old one, give the new one a try! (Unfortunately for me the Lasso was changed to late to make it in to the second edition of "Beginning GIMP" except as an appendix. The perils of writing books based on actively developed projects ...) ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] how to use layers
thomas w. writes: > For example, I want to merge two pictures, by taking some regions from one > picture and some from another. I though I could do this by making unwanted > regions transparent - this seems obvious. Yes, that's exactly the way to do it. And the best way to do that is to make a layer mask on the upper layer, then paint black, white or grey on the layer mask according to how transparent you want to make it (black for transparent, white for opaque). > Is this a case where GIMP simply makes it so difficult compared to Photoshop > that I'd be better off buying a Windows machine and using Photoshop? Not at all! Layer masks make this very straightforward in GIMP. For instance, start with step 4 of the selective colorization tutorial: http://gimp.org/tutorials/Selective_Color/ Or try a short video tutorial I made demonstrating layer masks: http://apress.com/book/view/1430210702 ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] WHat are my options, here
Noel Stoutenburg writes: > I have a topographical map, and I want to apply a color gradient which > follows the contour lines of the map, and blends from a darker hue at > the lower contour to a lighter hue at the next higher contour. The Have you used Shaped gradients? I think they'll help a lot. If you haven't used them, try selecting one contour area, then use the Gradient tool with Shape=Shaped, and drag from one edge of the contour to the other. Neat, huh? But it's not quite what you want, because it goes from white to black to white again, not from white at one contour to black at the next. Here's a way I found to do that. It may still take a lot of steps, but I think you'll get a better result than the smudging/airbrushing method you mentioned: Start with an image that has just the contour lines -- e.g. black contour lines on a white background. Use the magic wand tool and select the area within one contour (the white area between two sets of black contour lines). Save this selection somehow (e.g. switch to Quickmask mode, Copy, then Paste and make it a new layer and turn visibility off on that layer; or save it as a channel in the Channels dialog). Still in magic wand, switch to Add mode and add the area in the next contour up. (Or down, your choice.) You may also need to select the line between the contours. If it's antialiased, it may be faster to use quickmask and the paintbrush rather than magic wand here. Or you may not need to select it at all. Make a new layer (where you'll be drawing the gradient). On the new layer, make a layer mask. Copy that original selection you made, of a single contour area, and paste it into the mask. Then click on the layer preview. Now you'll be drawing into the new layer, but you'll only see the part corresponding to the current contour. In the Gradient tool with Shape=Shaped, drag across your contour to make the shaped gradient. I ended up with something like this: http://gimpbook.com/tmp/contours.jpg You can clean up the edges of the layer mask as needed (those white edges between the blue edge and the black contour line). The important thing is that the shaped gradient gives you a nice fade in the right directions without your needing to airbrush anything. ...Akkana "Beginning GIMP: From Novice to Professional": http://gimpbook.com ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Urgently need to adjust photograph size
John Meyer writes:
> Then you're probably going to want to crop out a square part of the picture
> and adjust that.
Agreed -- Crop is what you want.
...Akkana
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Re: [Gimp-user] Reduce or crop an image by N pixels?
vr writes: > Oops, after poking around a bit more I realize now that the actual crop > tool's selector is more friendly than the selection tool selector for what > I'm trying to do. I guess the real question I'm asking is how do you get > the selection tool to operate like the crop tools selector? Meaning, not go > outside the perimeter of the layer you want to select within? The closest I've found is View->Snap to Canvas Edges. It's not perfect -- you still have to be fairly careful and occasionally it doesn't snap at all -- but it will certainly help you avoid going over the edges. In 2.6, you have to set it on each image separately. In 2.8 it will be possible to make that the default. Though you may not want that; I find I always want it for Rect Select, but it gets in the way for the Move tool, so I have to keep toggling the option. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Outline people in photos
Denis G. writes: > I am wanting to make an outline > drawing of the people in the photo and adding a letter or number in the > outlines so I can identify the people in the photo,much like they do in > newspapers to identify people in a large group photo. Owen writes: > Use the foreground select tool. Once you make the selection,fill it [ ... ] > However the lasso tool might be an easier way, quickmask the selection Or if you want automatic outlining, you might also experiment with the various Filters->Edge Detect options -- the one called simply "Edge" is the easiest to preview since you can compare several different algorithms easily. You'll probably need to clean up the output afterward, though, so Owen's suggestions may be easier. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
[Gimp-user] Printing (was Re: running out of hair)
Gene Heskett writes: > >So my question is: Where do I put the BR2140.ppd that cups uses so that the > >gutenprint plug-in can also find it? The regular print dialog has no > >knowledge of this printer, and nowhere near enough controls to be usable. The regular (GTK) print dialog should see CUPS-registered printers. Gutenprint doesn't -- for Gutenprint you have to add each printer yourself, and it doesn't have drivers for a lot of printers that CUPS supports just fine, so you have to use "Postscript Level II" and do without any special features the printer might otherwise offer. For Gutenprint, try asking on the gimp-print list (they're friendly) to find out if there's a way to install a ppd manually. https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/gimp-print-devel > It is then printed portrait, full sized. Any other method prints it > landscape, slightly smaller in scale and still with some of the bottom > clipped off. I've had a lot of trouble controlling details like edges and borders. With my HP and the GTK print dialog, I managed briefly to get borderless (full bleed) prints, but something changed in the CUPS settings and now I get unpredictable margin sizes, and I haven't found the magic setting to turn borderless back on. I didn't have any better luck when I had an Epson and used Gutenprint. Accurate printing from GIMP still involves some luck and black magic. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] JPG file size increases with saving
Philip Rhoades writes: > What still doesn't make sense is that if the original file is JPG and > one simply opens it and then saves it as another JPG file with 100% Because JPEG isn't meant to be saved at 100% quality. The JPEG FAQ, http://www.faqs.org/faqs/jpeg-faq/part1/section-5.html, says: Except for experimental purposes, never go above about Q 95; using Q 100 will produce a file two or three times as large as Q 95, but of hardly any better quality. Q 100 is a mathematical limit rather than a useful setting. If you see a file made with Q 100, it's a pretty sure sign that the maker didn't know what he/she was doing. Do a web search on jpeg quality "100%" and you'll find lots of detailed discussions of this. GIMP's "Show preview in image window" check box is extremely helpful, and lets you see the trade-off in quality versus size. It's too bad it's not enabled by default. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Photo stitch
Alf C Stockton writes: > Is there any way to stitch photos together using the gimp ? I've never managed to get panotools working, so I wrote a simple plugin called pandora to help automate the stitching process described in "Grokking the Gimp". http://www.shallowsky.com/software/pandora/ ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
[Gimp-user] Learning GIMP: Some Project Ideas
In a local LUG, we're trying an "App of the Month" format with GIMP as the first app, and I thought it might be helpful to people if I posted some ideas for projects to get them started. I'm reposting it here in case anyone's interested, either in project ideas for yourself, or for friends who are interested in learning gimp but aren't sure how to start. Anybody have any other fun project ideas to suggest, at any level? Preferebly general sorts of things that can be recommended to anyone. Also, what are some good project ideas for younger groups? There aren't any kids in this particular LUG, but it's possible that some day I might find myself in front of a roomful of kids armed with a computer and GIMP ... I thought maybe things like, "put your teacher's head on Godzilla's body" (checking it out with the teacher first to make sure they have a sense of humor!) or use a digital camera to take pictures of the students and then iwarp/perspective them in various ways ... ...Akkana - Forwarded message - In case anyone wants to play with GIMP for our App of the Month club but doesn't have a particular project in mind, here are some ideas that might help get you started: Beginner: - Take a picture of something, and put Tux in it. Make Tux sit on your shoulder, type at your laptop, etc. A search for tux.gif at images.google.com will find lots of tux images with transparent background so you don't have to worry about making complicated selections. (In gimp, if you see grey checkerboards that means transparent.) (Warning, this can get to be addictive, get started on this and pretty soon your web page will be full of Tux everywhere!) - Take an image and put some text in it. Maybe make a greeting card. - Play with the Curves and Levels tools and see what they do. They're more complicated than simple brightness/contrast sliders, but they're actually not much harder to use (especially Curves). Remember, you can always hit Cancel, and ^Z does Undo! - Play with the transform tool (rotate-perspective-shear). Remember you can doubleclick on a button in the toolbox to get a tool options dialog. What useful stuff can you do with transforms? Beginner-Intermediate: - Now that you know how to add text, try putting a drop shadow on that text. This will require learning how to use layers. - Take an image that has something in it you don't want (that tourist who got in the way of that nice waterfall picture -- or your thumb in the corner of the frame :-) and experiment with using the Smudge and Clone tools to fix it. Which one do you like better? (Hint: it took me forever to figure out how to use the clone tool: turns out you have to select the region you want to clone with control-click before you can paint with regular click/drag.) - Make an image that fades to transparent (or to white) around the edges. There are lots of different ways to do this, using a layer mask (in the layers dialog) or using quickmask. What's the easiest way you find to do it? - Use the Bezier Path tool to make a complicated selection (e.g. cut a person or animal out of a busy background). Try to add, subtract and edit points, then do path->selection. Hint: it's easier if you use ctrl-= a few times to magnify the image while you're making the selection. - Download a gimp 1.2.5 tarball and build it. Intermediate: - Stitch a few images together as a panorama. Layer masks are helpful here: see the gimp-savvy.com tutorial. (Note: doing really *good* panoramas with lots of images is advanced. Don't expect perfection right away.) - Choose a plugin from registry.gimp.org (or anywhere else), download it and build it. (You'll probably need gimptool, which is usually packaged as part of the gimp-devel or gimp-dev package, often not installed by default on most distros.) - Enter one of the "photoshop contests" on the web, like photoshopcontest.com or worth1000.com. Tell 'em you used gimp and not photoshop. :-) - Download the latest 1.3 tarball (that's 1.3.17 right now) or CVS and build it. (This may require upgrading gtk2 and autoconf and other packages, if you don't have a very current linux distro.) Play with 1.3. How does it compare to 1.2? Advanced: - Use blending modes and layers to achieve 3-d glass and metal effects. - Write a simple plugin. It's usually easiest to take an existing one (probably one in the gimp source) as a template to see how it's done, then modify it. GIMP supports several scripting languages, including scheme (aka script-fu), perl, and python, as well as C. - Write a patch for the GIMP. :-) This is a great time to get involved: just in the past week someone posted a list of bugs that need volunteers to help out, if a feature is to make it in before the
Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP hints for astrophotography tweaking
Robin Laing writes: > One thing that I have read is making multiple exposures with digital > cameras and then adding the photos together. One common operation is "stacking": as you add layer N to the image, make the layer mask's transparency be 1/N. So the first layer is the background at 100%, the next layer goes in at 50%, the next at 33%, etc. This enhances the contrast of a bunch of short exposures without enhancing the noise much; it apparently also sharpens lunar/planetary images, by reducing the effect of temporary bad seeing in one part of the image. I don't know of a gimp plugin to do stacking, but it would be fairly trivial to write. (I'm not really an astrophotographer myself and have never stacked more than four images, so I didn't look very hard for a plugin, nor bothered to write one.) Of course, you have to make sure all the images are accurately aligned (easy if you have pinpoint stars, not so easy if you're shooting something with soft edges like Jupiter). 2.2's transform tool previews should make this important part a LOT easier. It would be a bit easier still if there were a way to alternate between rotation (transform tool) and translation (the move tool) while previewing without having to actually do the rotation (there's presumably a quality loss every time you free-rotate an image) but the only way I've found is to remember the rotation amount in the transform tool, cancel, select the move tool, move the layer, then transform again and type in the rotation where you left off. That comes up a lot with panoramas, too. Anyone know a better way to combine rotation and translation? Though with a real astrophotography CCD and a rock solid mount you may not need any rotation/translation. ...Akkana ___ Gimp-user mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
