Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[Carmen Beaudry]

(snip)
How about wearing "everyday clothing" from your chosen time period?
Not as much fun as a ball gown, but...

Just think, people may think you are making a "statement" or you are
just weird.  At least it would be a "good weird".

Susan

I've been doing something along those lines this winter.  We've had a rather 
cold winter(by Pacific NW standards, ok, we don't have real winters here) 
and my fibromyalgia, arthritis and recent surgery have made me feel the cold 
rather badly.  I have had my normal winter uniform of leggings under long 
skirts and boots, topped with layered sweaters just hasn't been working. 
For one thing, the fibro has been acting up enough that I can't stand to 
have most of my leggings next to my skin.  So, I pulled out my 17th century 
drawers and long hose and petticoats and find that I am toasty warm, and the 
local Goth kids think I look cool and want to know where I got my stuff.


Melusine 


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[h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified

[Kathy Page]

Sharon,

I believe that the Realm of Venus website has a couple
of the photos scanned from these books:
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold
The History of Underclothes by Cunnington (a husband
and wife team)
There are a couple of other smaller publications as
well, one in German I believe. 
I have literally hundreds of photos of this
collection, but since I intend to publish at some
point, I am confined by their copyright. Until I know
exactly what their limits are, I can't show off my new
prized possessions. I am hoping I can draw images from
the photos to avoid copyright chaos. I plan on
contacting their images department to sort that out
soon.

Kathy

> Having recently joined the group, Where can I see
> pics of this underwear?

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is 
an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to 
receive it.
-Ivan Panin






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[h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified

[Kathy Page]

Im a goober. *LOL*

In my enthusiasm I kinda FORGOT to mention the
fundamental information:

> What underwear collection are you talking about? 

The collection is referred to as the "Sicilian Brides'
Trousseau"

> Whose was it, 

No one is quite sure on an individual level. It has
some kind of connection to a convent, but it's not
quite clear to me what that connection really is. They
figure it likely was a middle/lower class girl whom
had learned to sew at the convent. I'm still not
entirely certain of this connection though. 
It simply is a collection of under and night garments
made by likely one person, a possible second one
helping out, meant for a bride. However I see no
evidence of any of it ever being used for more than a
short period of time. Either that wedding was some
special or she never got married.

where 
> was it made, 

It is classified generally in previously printed
materials as 16th c. Italian but it's actually 16th c.
Sicily. Arnold features a photo of the drawers in QEWU
and the Cunningtons in History of Underwear, amongst
others.

and where is it currently located?

The Metropolitan Museum of New York, Costume Institute
currently holds it.

My apologies for my ever exuberance. :">

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is 
an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to 
receive it.
-Ivan Panin






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Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes

[Susan Data-Samtak]

Start a trend.  Wear your Period Appropriate clothing to sell your 
Period Appropriate books.  You'll feel better and be happier!


Maybe the idea will catch on.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 11:28 PM, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most 
problems.  Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or 
Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever 
seen.  Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?) 
slum it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of 
professional networking going on, most dress better than that.  Trying 
to find clothes that look somewhat professional, that I can work in 
all day, with variations for unpredictable climatic conditions (one 
year it was up to 90 on the first week of May) and that I already own 
makes me crazy!  It's so much easier to dress in costume!


Janet

  <>

  Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much
  easier to "dress".

  Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day 
to

  day?

  Susan

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Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes

[JAMES OGILVIE]

It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most problems.  
Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or Renaissance SCA 
clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever seen.  Some of the 
participants (professors who already have tenure?) slum it in jeans and tee 
shirts but since there is a lot of professional networking going on, most dress 
better than that.  Trying to find clothes that look somewhat professional, that 
I can work in all day, with variations for unpredictable climatic conditions 
(one year it was up to 90 on the first week of May) and that I already own 
makes me crazy!  It's so much easier to dress in costume!

Janet

  <>

  Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much 
  easier to "dress".

  Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day to 
  day?

  Susan

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RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband

[otsisto]

-Original Message-
<<>>

*lol!

<<>>

*Why not a crimson or blue material with blue or crimsom accents. If blue
w/crimson + silver or Crimson w/blue +gold.  De



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RE: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified

[Sharon at Collierfam.com]

Having recently joined the group, Where can I see pics of this underwear?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:50 AM
To: Historical Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified


I'm back!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 

I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.
I have to thank Nikki a million times over for being a
patient and humourous compass.  I, being the
directionally impaired, would not have made it *to*
the Met, let alone around the island and then home! 
It was luck of the draw we got along so well, having
only met once for about an hour the year previous. 
Thankyouthankyouthankyou!!

Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
to: Underwear Mythbusting.  I won't have complete data available right away,
I still have to crunch it into a readable format, however I can happily say
that even the museum staff were impressed with the level of detail I was
painstakingly dragging the Most Patient Nikki through.  She recorded as fast
as she could while I fired numbers and terms at her as fast as she could
write.  After four hours she was just about mental mush.  By hour six, so
was I - but could have kept going!  You have much to look forward to in the
coming months.  :-)

Myth #1 The Stained Drawers They are not in any way
stained by blood.  They are not even stained in the
right place for it to be blood of natural causes.  The
photos that we are all used to have some kind of
strange shadow artifact.  We have mapped out the
stains, however the stains are not *nearly* as dark as
the photos suggest.  My suspicion is, the inks used to
trace out the embroidery pattern leeched into
subsequent layers when the garment got wet while being
folded.  There is no evidence that suggests that
someone tried to remove the stains which tells me they
haven't been used since the stains occured.  In fact,
none of these garments look like they have been used,
ever.  This one garment though has taken a beating of
some kind; it has substantial evidence of poor-quality
repair work throught the seams and embroidery.  The
fabric shows no wear that says it was actually damaged
through actual use, though.

Myth #1A The Stained Drawers have a front and back V
opening Not true.  The back should have a seam in it;
the seam has torn away down from the waist, but has
done so cleanly enough that it appears to have a seam
finish.  The waistband is supposed to be a casing that
a drawstring runs though.

Myth #2 - The Gathered Drawers are crotchless Patently
untrue.  In fact they are gusseted, just as the other
above is.  It's just a really long opening.  They are
just like any other pair of knickers one might
envision.  I have to say though that the sewing on
this garment is just...  incredible.  The seams are as
sturdy and perfect as the day they were made.  So much
so I couldn't find the selvedge edge inside the seams.
 And the stitches are so perfectly repeated and tiny,
it looks as if a machine had made them. 

Myth #2A - The Gathered Drawers are closed with a
button Again, untrue.  They have two small eyelets for
a point tie to pass through.  The pattern down the
opening is goldwork, as is the rest of the
embellishment which excited me to no end.  Goldwork
embroidery is my new obsession so I get to decorate to
my heart's content.  Given the nature of goldwork
though, it's amazing that the embroidery is still in
perfect condition at the opening.  This point leads me
to further believe this trousseau was never worn. 

Myth #3 - The Stockings were once sleeves I totally
disagree with this supposition.  They have piecing in
them that are absolutely identical to one another
which says to me that it was a part of the cutting
design.  They are also above the knee stockings so the
photos simply have not given relevant context to their dimensions.  I would
hazard that the intended wearer was roughly my height (5'5"); if I compare
the overall length of the stocking to my own leg, it sits perfectly above my
knee by about 2 inches.  I have some numbers and formulae I can use to
establish this for certain, I just have to crunch it and see what pops out.
I want to roughly estimate the overall size of the intended wearer so I can
better understand how the clothing sat on the body.

Myth #4 - The Gathered Chemise is blackworked I'll
leave embroidery technique out of this for a moment
and say no, indeed it is not *black* work - it is
mauve and plum.  Yes, purple, to be general about it. 
And somewhat variegated at that.  It was such an odd
shade of purple that we couldn't find an accurate
match to them in the swatch book.  Basically, the
colour codes we have are close in value, but one must
sadden the tone considerably.

Myth #5 - The Ungathered Chemise has been tampered
with consid

Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[Susan Data-Samtak]

Great idea!

I'll bet that pattern and fabric sales rise in your store because 
people will be "motivated" by your creativity.


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 10:27 PM, E House wrote:

A couple of days a week, I help out at a (good) fabric store.  I 
decided today that once a month or so I'll be wearing a historical 
something or another as I work!


Now to make some dresses that don't have trains...

-E House

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Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[E House]

A couple of days a week, I help out at a (good) fabric store.  I decided 
today that once a month or so I'll be wearing a historical something or 
another as I work!


Now to make some dresses that don't have trains...

-E House


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Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[annbwass]

Ah, yes, another reason to do living history.  I have been fortunate enough to 
attend one real inaugural ball, but those don't come along very often.  I also 
do modern western square dancing (my husband is a caller), which gives me 
another opportunity to play with fabrics and fancy trims.  I gave up the short 
styles with pouffy crinolines a while ago; the longer skirts are worn with 
softer petticoats--the circumference is just as full, but it doesn't stand out 
as much.  I DON'T make my petticoats, though.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dawn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:57:55 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion


> I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear black > 
> because it reflects the mood of the times." 
>  
The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want to look 
nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors or textures. 
Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with safe neutral 
colors. 
 
As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely have RL 
chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or anything requiring 
a crinoline. But costume events give me several chances a year to get decked 
out in something fancy and original. It's not that I don't want to wear ball 
gowns, I just don't get to many State Dinners or Coronations. :) 
 
 
Dawn 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Cossack coat

[annbwass]

Watch it!  I made one of those!  It was dark gray wool, had princess seams, and 
I put a real Persian lamb collar on it.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-Original Message-
From: Sharon at Collierfam.com <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'Historical Costume' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 18:24:23 -0800
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cossack coat


Do you mean like the 60's type coat that I remember Barbie dolls wearing?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Cossack coat


Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
have. 

 

Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for days
on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org

 

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Re: [h-cost] French seams

[annbwass]

I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer fabric.  
Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-Original Message-
From: Beth and Bob Matney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 20:07:15 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams


I am aware of your site (and Marc's) and stitch discussions in various 
archaeological references... that's the problem. Of the various seam finishes, 
I just cannot find an existing garment or fragment with the "French seam".. so 
I guess I'm defining it pretty specifically. A modern example is at 
http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html 
 
Beth 
 
At 06:06 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote: 
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:10:47 -0800 
>From: Heather Rose Jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>d 
> 
>On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: 
> 
> > Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't 
> > been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to 
> > 1600). 
> > 
> 
>A lot depends on how specifically you're defining "French seams". 
>There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished 
>edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved. For 
>a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out 
>the article "Archaeological sewing" on my website (see sig line). 
> 
>Heather 
>-- 
>Heather Rose Jones 
 
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Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[Susan Data-Samtak]

Men- colorblindness is a factor there, too.  One of my former bosses 
was good looking and always dressed impeccably.  (He was referred to as 
a Ken Doll).  He was color blind!  He had all his clothes put away in 
"sets" by his wife, so he would never make a bad color choice.  Again- 
Behind a successful Man is a Woman.  PS- She was also impeccably 
dressed.


How about wearing "everyday clothing" from your chosen time period?  
Not as much fun as a ball gown, but...


Just think, people may think you are making a "statement" or you are 
just weird.  At least it would be a "good weird".


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 3:57 PM, Dawn wrote:



I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear 
black because it reflects the mood of the times."


The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do 
so because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They 
want to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking 
colors or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they 
stay with safe neutral colors.


As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely 
have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or 
anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several 
chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's 
not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many 
State Dinners or Coronations. :)





Dawn


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RE: [h-cost] various fashion

[Sharon at Collierfam.com]

Where I live (San Francisco  area) there are themed dances every month or
so. So, we get to wear our lovely stuff and make more!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion



> I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear 
> black
> because it reflects the mood of the times."
> 

The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want 
to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors 
or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with 
safe neutral colors.

As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely 
have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or 
anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several 
chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's 
not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State 
Dinners or Coronations. :)




Dawn


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RE: [h-cost] Cossack coat

[Sharon at Collierfam.com]

Do you mean like the 60's type coat that I remember Barbie dolls wearing?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Cossack coat


Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
have. 

 

Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for days
on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org

 

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Re: [h-cost] Cossack coat

[Lynn Downward]

Is Folkwear's Cossack pattern still available?

LynnD


On 2/25/06, Five Rivers Chapmanry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
> some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
> warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
> have.
>
>
>
>Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
> pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for
> days
> on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
> the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Lorina
>
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
>
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
>
> 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [h-cost] French seams

[Beth and Bob Matney]

I am aware of your site (and Marc's) and stitch discussions in various 
archaeological references... that's the problem.  Of the various seam 
finishes, I just cannot find an existing garment or fragment with the 
"French seam".. so I guess I'm defining it pretty specifically. A modern 
example is at http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html


Beth

At 06:06 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:10:47 -0800
From: Heather Rose Jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>d

On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't
> been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to
> 1600).
>

A lot depends on how specifically you're defining "French seams".
There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished
edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved.  For
a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out
the article "Archaeological sewing" on my website (see sig line).

Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones


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RE: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes

[Sharon at Collierfam.com]

I like that idea. If enough of us do that, maybe we'll spark a fashion
"trend" (like Laura Ashley and the milkmaid look), and everyone will want to
dress like us.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes


<>

Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much 
easier to "dress".

Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day to 
day?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
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Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Susan Data-Samtak]

Lorina,

Congrats on losing the weight!  Unfortunately- it found me !

Seems there are a few of us Square Pegs around.  T's and sweats are 
constant companions.


I love getting "dressed" for Side Saddle events and historical Teas.  
Victorian is my preferred Period Style.  My husband can wear American 
Civil War type clothing, so we are all pretty happy with that 
"impression".


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 2:19 PM, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:


Kimiko,

Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!

You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated 
with
the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into 
mini-skirts
and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the 
women
for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. 
Consequently
a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight 
so
that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are 
looks I'm

going for.

And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off 
after the
first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot 
flash hits

I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.

Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory 
silk/wool
twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me 
the
rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original 
garment
that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given 
the

few number of special functions I attend.

And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) 
because
the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of 
beading, a

bit of trim. Voila.

Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and 
will
need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid 
cords

I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.

Regards,
Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted 
cooperage,

re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org



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Re: [h-cost] Fabric Paint

[Lalah]

I don't know about the Jacquard brand, but most fabric paints are designed to 
paint on fabric - not other paint.  It bonds with the fabric and gets in 
between the threads to hold it.  I haven't met one yet that works well covering 
another layer of paint and I have been fabric painting for longer than I care 
to admit.  Even taught it for a while some years back.  Some of the newer 
fabric paints may do the job, but I wouldn't bet on it.  You might try using 
regular acrylic paints as a second coat as they are made to stick to plastic 
and other non-porous surfaces.  Good Luck.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 00:06:35 +
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Historic Costuming)
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Paint

I've been working on a banner for some newly married friends.  I'm using 
Jacquard Textile paints.  I'm not sure what happend but one of the panels that 
I had to wash - after being painted and heatset; the paint bubbled up and 
peeled off.  Well, actually it was the second coat of paint that I had done 
over a lighter color of paint.  The lighter color stayed in place.  I'm going 
to be redoing the whole panel over.   Does anyone have any ideas on what might 
have happened so I don't make the same mistake again?

Roscelin
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Dianne & Greg Stucki]

Why is there such a heavy preponderance of fantasy titles among the most 
owned?  I know Harry Potter is popular, but what about bestselling authors 
like Danielle Steele?  Do you know if the site designer first announced 
the site on fantasy lists and thus gained an early preponderance of 
fantasy readers?


Fran
Lavolta Press



I think--and I'm just speculating here--that perhaps SCA-Fi fantasy fiction 
readers tend to hang onto their books longer. I am not a romance reader--to 
me, IF I read a Danielle Steele book, it would be a once-only type of book. 
(And I'd be pretty desperate for reading material.)Whereas, Silverlock, for 
instance, I can read over and over--and you have to re-read all the Harry 
Potter books to prepare for the release of the new one, so it makes sense to 
collect them...And I'd clobber anyone who suggested I get rid of Queen 
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.


To make yet another sweeping generalization, the vast majority of the people 
I know who are passionate about books tend to be costumers and Scadians, and 
those people tend to lean more toward that end of the fiction-reading 
spectrum. My non-SCA friends tend to wonder why on earth anyone would have 
so many books.


Dianne


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Re: [h-cost] Fabric Paint

[Becky]

If you paint on any synthetic fabric like polyester, acrylic paint may not 
stick. It sits on the top and does not soak in like dye should. Dye won't 
work either. Polyester is a man-made plastic and has to be colored in the 
extrusion process.
I had a wonderful project in grad school, washed it and it all was gone. The 
others on that fabric have never been washed! They could use it but I'm 
notlosing them.

Good luck. That's just in idea of what might have happened.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historic Costuming" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Paint


I've been working on a banner for some newly married friends.  I'm using 
Jacquard Textile paints.  I'm not sure what happend but one of the panels 
that I had to wash - after being painted and heatset; the paint bubbled up 
and peeled off.  Well, actually it was the second coat of paint that I had 
done over a lighter color of paint.  The lighter color stayed in place. 
I'm going to be redoing the whole panel over.   Does anyone have any ideas 
on what might have happened so I don't make the same mistake again?


Roscelin
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Re: [h-cost] Almost OT, Chaucer

[Lynn Downward]

Brilliant! I'm sending this to half my friends! Tahnk you SO SO much for
sharing this.

LynnD


On 2/23/06, Robin Netherton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Geoffrey Chaucer hath a blog. Really:
> http://houseoffame.blogs.friendster.com/my_blog/
>
> Only a handful of posts, but in September he wrote about costume:
>
> <<
> for a while ther I wolde breke a swete bifor I had ypassed St. Katherines
> chirche
> now I kanne weare mine woolen hosen, and mine little hatte
> >>
>
> --Robin
> tongue thrust firmly through left cheek
>
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RE: [h-cost] books

[Betsy Marshall]

Since I hate having to look up and type ALL the information about a 
book every @#$%! time I cite it, this site is _wonderful_.
-- 


OChris Laning <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> - Davis, California



AHH, correct usage- a sight for sore eyes!!

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[h-cost] Fabric Paint

[roscelinlimoges]

I've been working on a banner for some newly married friends.  I'm using 
Jacquard Textile paints.  I'm not sure what happend but one of the panels that 
I had to wash - after being painted and heatset; the paint bubbled up and 
peeled off.  Well, actually it was the second coat of paint that I had done 
over a lighter color of paint.  The lighter color stayed in place.  I'm going 
to be redoing the whole panel over.   Does anyone have any ideas on what might 
have happened so I don't make the same mistake again?

Roscelin
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Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified

[annbwass]

Absolutely wonderful detail; however, for those of us who don't remember, just 
WHAT underwear are you talking about?
 
Ann Wass 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kathy Page <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Historical Costume List 
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:50:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified


I'm back!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 

I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.
I have to thank Nikki a million times over for being a
patient and humourous compass.  I, being the
directionally impaired, would not have made it *to*
the Met, let alone around the island and then home! 
It was luck of the draw we got along so well, having
only met once for about an hour the year previous. 
Thankyouthankyouthankyou!!

Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
to: Underwear Mythbusting.  I won't have complete data
available right away, I still have to crunch it into a
readable format, however I can happily say that even
the museum staff were impressed with the level of
detail I was painstakingly dragging the Most Patient
Nikki through.  She recorded as fast as she could
while I fired numbers and terms at her as fast as she
could write.  After four hours she was just about
mental mush.  By hour six, so was I - but could have
kept going!  You have much to look forward to in the
coming months.  :-)

Myth #1 The Stained Drawers They are not in any way
stained by blood.  They are not even stained in the
right place for it to be blood of natural causes.  The
photos that we are all used to have some kind of
strange shadow artifact.  We have mapped out the
stains, however the stains are not *nearly* as dark as
the photos suggest.  My suspicion is, the inks used to
trace out the embroidery pattern leeched into
subsequent layers when the garment got wet while being
folded.  There is no evidence that suggests that
someone tried to remove the stains which tells me they
haven't been used since the stains occured.  In fact,
none of these garments look like they have been used,
ever.  This one garment though has taken a beating of
some kind; it has substantial evidence of poor-quality
repair work throught the seams and embroidery.  The
fabric shows no wear that says it was actually damaged
through actual use, though.

Myth #1A The Stained Drawers have a front and back V
opening Not true.  The back should have a seam in it;
the seam has torn away down from the waist, but has
done so cleanly enough that it appears to have a seam
finish.  The waistband is supposed to be a casing that
a drawstring runs though.

Myth #2 - The Gathered Drawers are crotchless Patently
untrue.  In fact they are gusseted, just as the other
above is.  It's just a really long opening.  They are
just like any other pair of knickers one might
envision.  I have to say though that the sewing on
this garment is just...  incredible.  The seams are as
sturdy and perfect as the day they were made.  So much
so I couldn't find the selvedge edge inside the seams.
 And the stitches are so perfectly repeated and tiny,
it looks as if a machine had made them. 

Myth #2A - The Gathered Drawers are closed with a
button Again, untrue.  They have two small eyelets for
a point tie to pass through.  The pattern down the
opening is goldwork, as is the rest of the
embellishment which excited me to no end.  Goldwork
embroidery is my new obsession so I get to decorate to
my heart's content.  Given the nature of goldwork
though, it's amazing that the embroidery is still in
perfect condition at the opening.  This point leads me
to further believe this trousseau was never worn. 

Myth #3 - The Stockings were once sleeves I totally
disagree with this supposition.  They have piecing in
them that are absolutely identical to one another
which says to me that it was a part of the cutting
design.  They are also above the knee stockings so the
photos simply have not given relevant context to their
dimensions.  I would hazard that the intended wearer
was roughly my height (5'5"); if I compare the overall
length of the stocking to my own leg, it sits
perfectly above my knee by about 2 inches.  I have
some numbers and formulae I can use to establish this
for certain, I just have to crunch it and see what
pops out.  I want to roughly estimate the overall size
of the intended wearer so I can better understand how
the clothing sat on the body.

Myth #4 - The Gathered Chemise is blackworked I'll
leave embroidery technique out of this for a moment
and say no, indeed it is not *black* work - it is
mauve and plum.  Yes, purple, to be general about it. 
And somewhat variegated at that.  It was such an odd
shade of purple that we couldn't find an accurate
match to them in the swatch book.  Basically, the
colour codes we have are close in value, but one must
sadden the tone considerably.

Myth #5 - The Ungathered Chemise has be

Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[Ailith Mackintosh]

*snip*
The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want to 
look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors or 
textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with safe 
neutral colors.


Ah...but are they aware that there are different colors of black? True 
carbon black,   black with a blue cast, with a green cast, and so on. Makes 
me crazy that my black tee shirt doesn't go with my black sweat pants (tee 
is bluer than the pants). And when they've had the garment too long, ya get 
grey. :-)


kate 



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Re: [h-cost] books

[Chris Laning]

At 8:27 PM -0500 2/24/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

On Friday 24 February 2006 8:05 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
 > I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.

Using what for time?  When I retire, maybe.


I'm also a LibraryThing fan, though I did maybe two batches of books 
a while ago and haven't gotten back to it.


The great thing about it is that it DOESN'T take much time because 
you don't have to enter ALL the information on 99% of the books. It 
will look them up for you! All I've needed to type in is the titles, 
and it pulls them right up.


I do plan to back up the list on my own computer once it bears some 
resemblance to my actual library -- I haven't been systematic about 
it. It sounds like it will be in a format that I'll be able to import 
into FileMaker (or MS Access) so I'll have my own database.


Since I hate having to look up and type ALL the information about a 
book every @#$%! time I cite it, this site is _wonderful_.

--


OChris Laning <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com

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Re: [h-cost] books

[Heather Rose Jones]

On Feb 25, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote:


At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about  
librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing  
the ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by  
shelf. With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's  
really not too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit  
longer, but I still rarely have to enter all the info.


Beth


Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
From: Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.



Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm  
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my  
workroom. I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I  
need to list them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)


Well, I don't know about anyone else, but for me, after the _second_  
time I bought a second copy of a $100 book because I'd forgotten that  
I already owned it, I started carrying my book list file around on my  
Palm Pilot.  I simply can't remember 4000 books individually, and the  
matter becomes more complicated when I know I've had a particular  
book in my hands but can't remember if it was a library copy, a copy  
in a bookstore that I decided I couldn't buy at the time, or a copy  
on my own shelves.


I use an ordinary Excel spreadsheet -- I'd been entering books into  
it for years already when I got the software to put it on my Palm.   
One of the motivations for setting up the electronic file (other than  
simply having a catalog for documentary purposes, e.g., in case of  
loss) was having a convenient file for pulling citations from when  
creating bibliographies.  At the time, I was doing SCA heraldic  
commentary and was throwing together an extensive list of citations  
for my commentary letters every month.


Different parts of the library got entered into the file at different  
times, based on usage.  It helped that around the time I was getting  
serious about it, I had a move that was leisurely and stress-free  
enough that I could catalog the books as I packed them.  There are  
still a few parts of my library that haven't been catalogued  
(especially the sheet music) and when I do a major bookshelf  
reorganization this year I should probably do a formal shelf-check as  
well.


As someone else noted, it's also a convenient place to keep track of  
who you've lent books out to and whether they've come back.


Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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Re: [h-cost] French seams was RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Heather Rose Jones]

On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't  
been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to  
1600).




A lot depends on how specifically you're defining "French seams".   
There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished  
edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved.  For  
a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out  
the article "Archaeological sewing" on my website (see sig line).


Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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Re: [h-cost] various fashion

[Dawn]

I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear black 
because it reflects the mood of the times."




The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want 
to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors 
or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with 
safe neutral colors.


As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely 
have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or 
anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several 
chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's 
not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State 
Dinners or Coronations. :)





Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] books

[Jacqueline Johnson]

You can make your lists private so that no one else can read them. And while
Steele may be on the best sellers list its Sci-fi that is what people read
for the most part. I'm sure I'll hear howls over that. But there was an
article not long ago about sc-fi held the top rank closely followed by
romances. And I don't exactly call HP sci-fi. Those books fall into the
fantasy category with books like Lord of the Rings and the the Mists of
Avalon books. Sci Fi are considered things like Dune and the like. If you
click the Zeitetgeist (sic) link on the page it will take you to all sorts
of neat rankings.

B~

On 2/25/06, Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Very useful; I think it's a well-thought-out site.  However, although I
> see a point in cataloging my library, I see no point to making the
> catalog public. But it's really great to see a community of serious book
> lovers--two of whom own over 8,000 books.
>
> Why is there such a heavy preponderance of fantasy titles among the most
> owned?  I know Harry Potter is popular, but what about bestselling
> authors like Danielle Steele?  Do you know if the site designer first
> announced the site on fantasy lists and thus gained an early
> preponderance of fantasy readers?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
>
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Lavolta Press]

Very useful; I think it's a well-thought-out site.  However, although I 
see a point in cataloging my library, I see no point to making the 
catalog public. But it's really great to see a community of serious book 
lovers--two of whom own over 8,000 books.


Why is there such a heavy preponderance of fantasy titles among the most 
owned?  I know Harry Potter is popular, but what about bestselling 
authors like Danielle Steele?  Do you know if the site designer first 
announced the site on fantasy lists and thus gained an early 
preponderance of fantasy readers?


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:


At Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:57:19 Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something
to add it.  However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone
else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site
availability, continued existence, etc.



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Re: [h-cost] books

[Kimiko Small]

At 05:46 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm afraid 
I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. I know what 
they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list them? (More time I 
haven't got anyway!)


suzi



For me, it helps to be able to call them up on the computer, or search for 
something I know is on a bookshelf in the other room, or when I am not sure 
which book I have, and which book I want, because I have a swiss-cheese 
memory on things. I also plan on putting a list of my favorite books, with 
short personal reviews, on my web site for others to view. Many times on 
this list and on others, someone will ask something and instead of 
re-writing the same info (title, author, isbn, etc.) over and over, I can 
just highlight the info, copy, paste, and send the e-mail. It also helps 
for insurance purposes. If I can prove I owned a book after a fire, the 
book costs can be covered. Considering how many books I own and some are 
expensive to replace, that would be very helpful for me. And doing this on 
a computer also beats the card catalog system I once used for my general 
paperbacks, so that just means I can be anal-retentive about some things... 
I was an accountant for a reason.  ;-)


Kimiko


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Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified

[Lavolta Press]

What underwear collection are you talking about?  Whose was it, where 
was it made, and where is it currently located?


Thanks,

Fran

Kathy Page wrote:


I'm back!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 


I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.

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Re: [h-cost] OT Smoking

[Kimiko Small]

At 11:06 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:

To give a ray of hope to those who might be facing cancer.
   I have a friend who had a double mastectomy three years ago and then 
last year lost a lung to lung cancer.  There was no connection between 
the two. She had been a smoker for  I don't know for how long, but 
probably most of her life.  She went through some rough times with 
both.  The good news is that she HAS been declared cancer free.  For some 
people it can be beaten.


Please encourage your friends who smoke to try to stop or at least cut back.
Jeanine



Thank you for giving us that ray of hope. And I do encourage my friends to 
quit, as hard as I understand it to be. If only I could find a way to tell 
strangers to quit as well.


Kimiko


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RE: [h-cost] OT Smoking

[Kimiko Small]

I am so sorry for your loss Monica. Thank you for sharing your story.

Kimiko


At 10:41 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:

This is a sad thread.

My mom was given 6 months when they FINALLY diagnosed the anal lesion that
she had as 3rd stage cancer. It was diagnosed because the lesion contained
LUNG cells... which means the primary site was in her lungs --- All due to
smoking  from the time she was a teenager.

She was active and a beautiful woman who had been a professional ballerina
and actress in her youth , before her marriage to my Dad at age 23.

It was awful to watch the disease progress to the point that she had skin
cancer, lung cancer, spinal cancer, liver cancer, pelvic cancer--- you name
it . She lost her hair and her eyesight to chemo. Maybe it was a blessing--
at least she didn't have to see the fist size black spots all over her body
that was skin cancer. She was in terrible pain and she was not only given
oral morphine, but the morpine patch, which had to be moved periodicallu to
a new spot that had not been used before. It became a major problem quickly
because she had so many skin lesions that they were running out of places to
place the patch.

BTW-- she only lasted 4 months after the diagnosis. I considered it a
blessing.

I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they are
immortal...


Monica Spence (Catriona MacDuff in the SCA)




Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
Personal site: http://www.kimiko1.com
LiveJournal: http://www.livejournal.com/~sstormwatch/

"The future belongs to those who believe
 in the beauty of their dreams." - Eleanor Roosevelt

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Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Kimiko Small]

Lorina

Just to clarify... my Mom was petite, I am Rubenesque just like you, and 
slowly loosing weight. I get my height from a mix of my small Mom, and my 
ex-Marine father who was 6'2", leaving me squat in the middle at 5'6" and 
way too heavy.


You've definitely given me some ideas to think about. I like the dress 
jacket you are working on. I would love to see pics when you are finished, 
or even any works in progress.


I think I will be spending some of my quiet time today (when the kids are 
napping) sketching out some ideas.


Thanks again,

Kimiko



At 11:19 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:

Kimiko,

Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!

You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with
the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts
and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women
for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently
a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so
that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm
going for.

And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the
first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits
I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.

Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool
twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the
rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment
that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the
few number of special functions I attend.

And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because
the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a
bit of trim. Voila.

Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will
need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords
I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.

Regards,
Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org



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[h-cost] Underwear, Demystified

[Kathy Page]

I'm back!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 

I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.
I have to thank Nikki a million times over for being a
patient and humourous compass.  I, being the
directionally impaired, would not have made it *to*
the Met, let alone around the island and then home! 
It was luck of the draw we got along so well, having
only met once for about an hour the year previous. 
Thankyouthankyouthankyou!!

Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
to: Underwear Mythbusting.  I won't have complete data
available right away, I still have to crunch it into a
readable format, however I can happily say that even
the museum staff were impressed with the level of
detail I was painstakingly dragging the Most Patient
Nikki through.  She recorded as fast as she could
while I fired numbers and terms at her as fast as she
could write.  After four hours she was just about
mental mush.  By hour six, so was I - but could have
kept going!  You have much to look forward to in the
coming months.  :-)

Myth #1 The Stained Drawers They are not in any way
stained by blood.  They are not even stained in the
right place for it to be blood of natural causes.  The
photos that we are all used to have some kind of
strange shadow artifact.  We have mapped out the
stains, however the stains are not *nearly* as dark as
the photos suggest.  My suspicion is, the inks used to
trace out the embroidery pattern leeched into
subsequent layers when the garment got wet while being
folded.  There is no evidence that suggests that
someone tried to remove the stains which tells me they
haven't been used since the stains occured.  In fact,
none of these garments look like they have been used,
ever.  This one garment though has taken a beating of
some kind; it has substantial evidence of poor-quality
repair work throught the seams and embroidery.  The
fabric shows no wear that says it was actually damaged
through actual use, though.

Myth #1A The Stained Drawers have a front and back V
opening Not true.  The back should have a seam in it;
the seam has torn away down from the waist, but has
done so cleanly enough that it appears to have a seam
finish.  The waistband is supposed to be a casing that
a drawstring runs though.

Myth #2 - The Gathered Drawers are crotchless Patently
untrue.  In fact they are gusseted, just as the other
above is.  It's just a really long opening.  They are
just like any other pair of knickers one might
envision.  I have to say though that the sewing on
this garment is just...  incredible.  The seams are as
sturdy and perfect as the day they were made.  So much
so I couldn't find the selvedge edge inside the seams.
 And the stitches are so perfectly repeated and tiny,
it looks as if a machine had made them. 

Myth #2A - The Gathered Drawers are closed with a
button Again, untrue.  They have two small eyelets for
a point tie to pass through.  The pattern down the
opening is goldwork, as is the rest of the
embellishment which excited me to no end.  Goldwork
embroidery is my new obsession so I get to decorate to
my heart's content.  Given the nature of goldwork
though, it's amazing that the embroidery is still in
perfect condition at the opening.  This point leads me
to further believe this trousseau was never worn. 

Myth #3 - The Stockings were once sleeves I totally
disagree with this supposition.  They have piecing in
them that are absolutely identical to one another
which says to me that it was a part of the cutting
design.  They are also above the knee stockings so the
photos simply have not given relevant context to their
dimensions.  I would hazard that the intended wearer
was roughly my height (5'5"); if I compare the overall
length of the stocking to my own leg, it sits
perfectly above my knee by about 2 inches.  I have
some numbers and formulae I can use to establish this
for certain, I just have to crunch it and see what
pops out.  I want to roughly estimate the overall size
of the intended wearer so I can better understand how
the clothing sat on the body.

Myth #4 - The Gathered Chemise is blackworked I'll
leave embroidery technique out of this for a moment
and say no, indeed it is not *black* work - it is
mauve and plum.  Yes, purple, to be general about it. 
And somewhat variegated at that.  It was such an odd
shade of purple that we couldn't find an accurate
match to them in the swatch book.  Basically, the
colour codes we have are close in value, but one must
sadden the tone considerably.

Myth #5 - The Ungathered Chemise has been tampered
with considerably Most certainly has been; this one is
confirmed without a doubt.  The lower hem
embellishment is petit point cross stitch in a totally
wrong style of embroidery.  In fact, the whole thing
looked so far off from what I have seen in the other
items in this collection, I left that one 

Re: [h-cost] books

[Beth and Bob Matney]

At Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:57:19 Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something
to add it.  However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone
else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site
availability, continued existence, etc.


No, I don't trust other's backup systems either. librarything has a 
download feature to comma delimited list that I can import into a 
spreadsheet or MS Access on my computer..  or re-upload if something 
happens on the host. Plus, I could printout a hardcopy. I'll do that when I 
get caught up! It will be awhile. I download after every significant update 
to the catalogue, so I have a backup.


Beth


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RE: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[Suzi Clarke]

At 18:58 25/02/2006, you wrote:

Back in the dark ages, when I went to college in 1970, my counselor
recommended an all girls school (Seton Hill College) -- known as a place
"Where women lead". It was the only place I applied to and got accepted as
an early decision candidate. It was one of the best things I ever did.I
majored in Theatre/costume and got a BA. I later went to SUNY Binghamton for
graduate school , again in Theatre/costume and got an MA. I worked 24 years
in the garment industry and a designer/patternmaker/ head of the department
and have done lots of free lance stuff during those years! .For the past 2+
years I have taught in the fashion program at the Art Institute of New York
city-- a 2 year Associate's degree program.

If someone had told me when I went to college, that I would wind up as a
college professor, I would have sent you to the psych ward... I had wanted
to be a theatre costumer (Which I did  for 6 years and then moved on to
clothing design because I needed a steady paycheck!)

I love teaching-- especially my 2 day a week schedule that allows me to
write and sew-- and if you figure out the per diam sallary, I am making
twice what I would make for my old design job--which went offshore to the
Orient, but don't get me started on THAT!

All this is to tell you that you can change careers or do something new. It
is never too late...

I have just applied to my alma matter to participate in an on line writing
MA program...  If you are interested in going to school, look for on line
courses, or intensive residency programs...



Although I had worked in theatre for 10 years, I went back to college 
as a mature student of 40, to learn to cut costumes. I got a diploma 
- we don't run to the kind of qualifications that the Americans do, I 
think - which no-one has ever asked to see. I teach, write, do 
research, and have not stopped working since I left college. ( I am 
now past the age of retirement, officially, but have too much work to 
retire yet, more's the pity!)


Suzi


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[h-cost] Cossack coat

[Five Rivers Chapmanry]

Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
have. 

 

Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for days
on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org

 

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[h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Five Rivers Chapmanry]

Kimiko,

Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!

You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with
the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts
and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women
for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently
a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so
that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm
going for. 

And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the
first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits
I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.

Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool
twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the
rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment
that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the
few number of special functions I attend.

And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because
the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a
bit of trim. Voila.

Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will
need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords
I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.

Regards,
Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org



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Re: [h-cost] OT Smoking

[Dianne & Greg Stucki]

This is a sad thread.

My mom was given 6 months when they FINALLY diagnosed the anal lesion that
she had as 3rd stage cancer. It was diagnosed because the lesion contained
LUNG cells... which means the primary site was in her lungs --- All due to
smoking  from the time she was a teenager.


My mother had a tumor on the back of her neck. They did surgery and 
radiation, and swore they had gotten it all. When she kept telling them she 
was having trouble breathing (AFTER they told her she was just stressed and 
should get over it), they finally took a look at her chest cavity. It was 
almost completely filled with cancer.


She was active and a beautiful woman who had been a professional ballerina
and actress in her youth , before her marriage to my Dad at age 23.
BTW-- she only lasted 4 months after the diagnosis. I considered it a
blessing.


My mom died one week after they finally found the lung cancer. Like you, I 
considered it a blessing. But my mom was only 57 years old, and she should 
have had waaay more time with us, and with the grandchildren she adored. I 
truly feel that they were robbed.


I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they 
are

immortal...


Yeah--at one time, everyone in my family smoked. None of us do know, and I 
don't think we ever will again!


Dianne

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bios, changing careers, and college (was RE: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[Susan B. Farmer]

Quoting monica spence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

*snippage*



All this is to tell you that you can change careers or do something new. It
is never too late...


I'm not in costuming or theater, but let me second that statment with a
resounding AMEN!

I got my BA in 1976 in Computer Science.  Worked as a programmer for a
dozen or so years, had a kid and stayed at home afterwards.  I *always*
had photographed the spring wildflowers -- always.  (I didn't have a
place of my own to grow them, so I collected Wildflower Gardeners --
and there is that Large National Park just down the road [aka The Great
Smoky Mountains National Park]).  One day, I decided to identify my
pictures ...

I'll cut a long story here.  I entered graduate school at 40.  UTK was
good to me, and they let me start slow.  I'll be 53 this summer when I
get my PhD -- and I have had a *blast*  IME, "older students" tend to
be better students -- because they're doing it for THEMSELVES -- not to
meet somebody else's expectations.  The year that I got my MS, there was
a lady who got her PhD in Educational Counseling -- she wanted to work
with geriatric patients using Art Therapy.  She was 92 I think -- you
may remember the letter to Dear Abby about her.  She got a standing
ovation.

If you want it go for it!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] OT Smoking

[Jeanine E. Swick]

To give a ray of hope to those who might be facing cancer. 

   I have a friend who had a double mastectomy three years ago and then 
last year lost a lung to lung cancer.  There was no connection between 
the two. She had been a smoker for  I don't know for how long, but 
probably most of her life.  She went through some rough times with 
both.  The good news is that she HAS been declared cancer free.  For 
some people it can be beaten.


Please encourage your friends who smoke to try to stop or at least cut 
back. 


Jeanine




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RE: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[monica spence]

Back in the dark ages, when I went to college in 1970, my counselor
recommended an all girls school (Seton Hill College) -- known as a place
"Where women lead". It was the only place I applied to and got accepted as
an early decision candidate. It was one of the best things I ever did.I
majored in Theatre/costume and got a BA. I later went to SUNY Binghamton for
graduate school , again in Theatre/costume and got an MA. I worked 24 years
in the garment industry and a designer/patternmaker/ head of the department
and have done lots of free lance stuff during those years! .For the past 2+
years I have taught in the fashion program at the Art Institute of New York
city-- a 2 year Associate's degree program.

If someone had told me when I went to college, that I would wind up as a
college professor, I would have sent you to the psych ward... I had wanted
to be a theatre costumer (Which I did  for 6 years and then moved on to
clothing design because I needed a steady paycheck!)

I love teaching-- especially my 2 day a week schedule that allows me to
write and sew-- and if you figure out the per diam sallary, I am making
twice what I would make for my old design job--which went offshore to the
Orient, but don't get me started on THAT!

All this is to tell you that you can change careers or do something new. It
is never too late...

I have just applied to my alma matter to participate in an on line writing
MA program...  If you are interested in going to school, look for on line
courses, or intensive residency programs...

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 1:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire


Well, the other question is whether or not you can make a family-wage career
out of it.  I've done custom costuming from home for more than 10 years.
While the extra money is nice, it will never, ever be enough to support me
completely.

Now, the University of Rhode Island had a lovely masters' program in textile
conservation that I would have been all over in a shot--were it not for the
fact that I live in Washington State and want to continue to live in
Washington State.  3,000 miles is a bit too long to commute

LuAnn
  - Original Message -

  From: Lalah
  To: Historical Costume
  Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire


  Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were supposed
to be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good teacher, and
secretary when I did that, but never happy in either field.  Luckily, I
found other outlets as I grew older.

  Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


  --- REBECCA BURCH
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  From: REBECCA BURCH
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
  Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

  Hello, again.

  I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
  wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
  participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
  what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

  Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
  years and slap the college counselor who told me
  costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
  social worker.

  Any words of wisdom?

  Rebecca Burch
  Center Valley Farm
  Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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RE: [h-cost] OT Smoking

[Susan B. Farmer]

Quoting monica spence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


This is a sad thread.



*snippage*


I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they are
immortal...


I think that there must be a certain amount of "teenager" (aka "that
won't happen to me" mentality) inside every smoker; there's also the
addictive nature of nicotine at work.  My dad, thank You, Lord, is
still healthy after having smoked on and off and on and off and ... for
more years than I can remember.  Daddy *knows* -- he was a medical
products salesman; I can remember him talking about one of his doctors
having a pickled smokers lung in a jar on his desk -- ugly and
shriveled and black, but it never motivated him to stop.  At least my
mother won't let him smoke inside the house.

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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RE: [h-cost] OT Smoking

[monica spence]

This is a sad thread.

My mom was given 6 months when they FINALLY diagnosed the anal lesion that
she had as 3rd stage cancer. It was diagnosed because the lesion contained
LUNG cells... which means the primary site was in her lungs --- All due to
smoking  from the time she was a teenager.

She was active and a beautiful woman who had been a professional ballerina
and actress in her youth , before her marriage to my Dad at age 23.

It was awful to watch the disease progress to the point that she had skin
cancer, lung cancer, spinal cancer, liver cancer, pelvic cancer--- you name
it . She lost her hair and her eyesight to chemo. Maybe it was a blessing--
at least she didn't have to see the fist size black spots all over her body
that was skin cancer. She was in terrible pain and she was not only given
oral morphine, but the morpine patch, which had to be moved periodicallu to
a new spot that had not been used before. It became a major problem quickly
because she had so many skin lesions that they were running out of places to
place the patch.

BTW-- she only lasted 4 months after the diagnosis. I considered it a
blessing.

I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they are
immortal...


Monica Spence (Catriona MacDuff in the SCA)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 6:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT Smoking


At 08:13 PM 2/23/2006, you wrote:
>My father passed away after fighting emphysema for about 7 years.  It was a
>mercy because he was bright and alert right up until the end.  He just was
>slowly drowning because of 45-50 years of smoking.  Every time I see
someone
>light up I want to beat them!  It's not that the death is so bad - it's the
>dying.  Way too often it is long and agonizing for everyone involved!
>
>Wanda


I agree with you Wanda.

My husband wants to have a commercial of a young person lighting up, saying
"it's my choice, if I die, it will only affect me." Then show that person
grow older, and how as they go through life; falling in love, getting
married, having kids, then young grandkids. A progression until they die
relatively early in life of cancer or other smoking related illness and
show the grief of those they leave behind. The idea is to show how smoking
affects their whole family, not just their personal bodies.

I know we all die sometime of something. But I know in my Mom's case, she
was in excellent health otherwise. No history of anything, ate right,
exercised, everything good she could do, except she smoked from the age of
16 till she died a couple of months past her 73rd birthday, with only a few
years where she had quit. She was given smokes from an American military
man sometime after the bombing in Japan. As a Japanese woman, she had a
life expectancy of her 80s or higher. She left knowing she wouldn't see her
the grand daughter she had waited her whole life to hold. But thankfully,
she is no longer in the intense pain she had from the cancer, which had
spread to her bones in her spine and beyond.

Kimiko

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Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband

[Susan Data-Samtak]

I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear 
black because it reflects the mood of the times."


Is that why we can free ourselves to wear color when we step into our 
chosen time period?  We enjoy the Period and "forget" that all time 
periods had their problems?


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 12:40 PM, Joannah Hansen wrote:


<--- Irmgart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
than
and
camo).

<

I *swear* that my husband owns every single black t-shirt in Brisbane.

When his Lordship and I first started going out, I'd see something 
nice - a piece of furniture or home decor stuff - and his Lordship 
would say, 'Yes, if it was black.' !


One day, I am going to get him the ( black, of course! ) t-shirt that 
has 'I'm only wearing black until they invent a darker colour'.


Of course, his re-enactment gear is an entirely different matter - his 
first 17thC outfit had a burgundy/purple doublet, with gold satin 
breeches. :-) He keeps changing his mind about what colour he wants 
for his new outfit, first it was going to be crimson, then blue, 
then.


Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~



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RE: [h-cost] Re: Corded corset Shrinkage?

[Betsy Marshall]

I made one like that- except linen/cotton blend both sides and bias tape
instead of leather binding- I call it my "sports corset"!)(great for hot
days and very washable!) Betsy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:30 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Corded corset Shrinkage?

Allison,
I have made a corded corset and no, it won't shrink
dramatically. Even if it does, it will stretch back
out again once under tension. Mine is made from cotton
corset coutil and linen tabby lining with hemp cording
and garment weight leather binding. I find after
wearing it for a couple of hours, I wish I could
tighten it a little, but being a front laced, I can't.
Highly absorbent garment however...

Kathy

> Does anyone have any experience with possible
> shrinkage? The site
> mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly
> variable by fabric
> type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out
> of cotton canvas.

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It's never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there
is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to
receive it.
-Ivan Panin






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Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Kimiko Small]

Lorina,

Thank you. You are in some ways what I am hoping to do with me. I, too, 
have become a textile and fit snob. I look around at the mall, and at 
myself, and hate the one size fits no-one mentality I see. I love natural 
fibers, and quality garments, and that's what I am slowly working on doing 
for myself. I don't buy garments that often, and wear them for years until 
they wear out, which makes for some sad looking t-shirt in my closet right 
now. Sadly, if I were to purge my closet of things that are outworn, or 
doesn't fit, I might have just a couple of shirts, and only one pair of 
pants. Very sad.


That does it... I am taking my personal stand to make the time to make my 
own garments. I've got the skills, so I may as well use them to benefit me, 
and not just for historical garb. ... And I just realized why my Mom sewed 
many of her own garments. She was petite, 5'0" and a 100 pounds sopping 
wet. She had to make her own in the years before petite sizing. And in 
realizing this, how much like my Mom I'm becoming, it makes me smile.


Kimiko



At 03:44 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:

I seem to be the square peg here. ;-) It is because of the hours it
took to create quality historical clothing that made me into a textile snob.
I detest shopping in retail stores because the quality of the textiles and
manufacture is just wrong, ugly, shoddy. When I'm pressed for time and am
desperate to replace a garment I cave and shop retail. But mostly I try to
make my own garments using the same standards I do for historical garments.

The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
flat-fell seamed. Everything is custom fitted. (No one hour Simplicity Jiffy
patterns for me). As a result of that and the care I give those garments, I
find they last a very long time. In fact, I have a cotton velveteen tunic
with mabee pearl buttons I made ten years ago which is still fashionable,
and still standing up very well. Just last year I had to retire a blue silk
noile hand-embroidered shirt I'd worn fairly steadily for about eight years,
and a gorgeous black silk noile tunic.

Even the casual garments I wear are made with the same care, and as
a result stand the test of time. I figure it's money and time well invested.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.


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Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns

[Kimiko Small]

At 08:43 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
People often dont recognize me out of costume because I dress well in 
period, but shabbily out!  I actually have just started spending some 
money to amend that, but it is money that I have been forced to spend out 
of embarrassment.


I wonder how common this is on this list?

Ron Carnegie



That's me as well. And I don't have that many period garments, or even 
mundane garments. It's just that I put more thought and effort into my 
period garb than the everyday sweats that I often wear (I am a SAHM now, so 
I don't do office wear anymore). However, I, too, am changing that 
perspective, and am designing and slowly creating my own regular mundane 
wear for everyday use. I just have to work at it, because I am not a 
fashion maven... never have been, never will be. But I want clothes that 
fit me, look good on me (is that I look good in?), and that reflects who I 
really am. I am tired of looking like a slob in clothes that don't fit off 
the rack, and yet that's the current "fashion" no matter the actual style.


The hardest part for me was trying to decide what basic style I really 
like... dramatic, or casual, classic, or modern. I've decided I am a 
dramatic casual, with a classic (read as historic) bend. I want clothes 
that are comfortable, easy to wear, but has something of a dramatic punch 
somewhere on it. I just need to figure out which part of historical wear I 
can incorporate, because farthingales are just a bit bulky to wear on a 
regular basis.  ;-)


Kimiko


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Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes

[Susan Data-Samtak]

<>

Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much 
easier to "dress".


Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day to 
day?


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour
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Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[LuAnn Mason]

Well, the other question is whether or not you can make a family-wage career 
out of it.  I've done custom costuming from home for more than 10 years.  While 
the extra money is nice, it will never, ever be enough to support me 
completely.  

Now, the University of Rhode Island had a lovely masters' program in textile 
conservation that I would have been all over in a shot--were it not for the 
fact that I live in Washington State and want to continue to live in Washington 
State.  3,000 miles is a bit too long to commute

LuAnn
  - Original Message - 

  From: Lalah 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire


  Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were supposed to 
be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good teacher, and secretary 
when I did that, but never happy in either field.  Luckily, I found other 
outlets as I grew older.  

  Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


  --- REBECCA BURCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  From: REBECCA BURCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
  Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

  Hello, again.

  I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
  wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
  participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
  what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

  Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
  years and slap the college counselor who told me
  costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
  social worker.

  Any words of wisdom?

  Rebecca Burch
  Center Valley Farm
  Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Lavolta Press]

I have thousands of books too, at least 400 of which are costume related.


I also have thousands, and over 1,000 costume related.



I don't need an insurance inventory, fortunately!


Well, everybody might need to claim insurance some day. My in-laws' 
house burned down in the firestorm in the East Bay some years ago, and 
it turned out their policy required listing every single item they 
wanted to claim, down to the skillets and the towels--along with current 
values. I'm well aware how much work that is, because I did most of it. 
 And they had no collector instincts whatever--that house was like 
something out of a magazine, it looked like no one even lived in it. 
(Fortunately, they used the insurance money to build an even fancier 
house that looks like no one lives in it.)


However, the quick way to document your book collection--assuming you 
have it on shelves or otherwise visible--is to pan a video camera over 
it.  That way you can at least prove to the insurance company that you 
did own these books. If your house burns down or whatever, then you can 
look up the current values on the net.




I already know lots of people with similar interests, and don't have 
time to keep up with them all.


True, but it's heartwarming to see a lot of people get together because 
they love books.





With the "tags", it also helps with organization... so I can find a 
particular book again! Most systems were just too cumbersome and 
slow.. you have to enter ALL the info by hand.. that I kept putting it 
off.



The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something 
to add it.  However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone 
else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site 
availability, continued existence, etc.


We have Microsoft Access, and it would be easy to build a little 
cataloging application for it. (My husband is a programmer, and he built 
the databases for our publishing business on access.)  We just have not 
gotten around to it. Entering all this stuff in any system is so much 
work, when there is so much else to do. But it would keep me from buying 
duplicates of books I already have, which I do on occasion.





Maybe I'm lucky? I already file in types/kinds, like factual 
reference/sci fi.classics/ historical fiction etc., and authors and 
dates, and my costume related books are in my work room, so I never have 
trouble finding a book, unless I haven't put it back where it belongs.


Those were the days, when I had enough shelf space for that. Now about 
half my books are in stacks all over the floors in every room.  They're 
sort of categorized, but no way can I keep them all alphabetized by 
author name and so on.  Luckily I'm good at remembering titles, author 
names, and approximately where things are.


As for lending out books, I learned long ago that lending someone 
something is tatamount to kissing it goodbye.  I don't bring people in 
for viewings either--not since that time years ago when someone took the 
opportunity to steal some of my books and then brag to other people 
about how clever she was to have done it.  Smuggled them out under a 
long cape--it's not like I strip search guests before they leave.


Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Debloughcostumes]

I'd recommend some sort of list, even if not strictly a catalogue.

A while back we had some pipes leak and the ceiling come down - right on top 
of one of NIge's most expesive shelves of books.

Fortunately, the insurers paid out when we sent them three independant quotes 
that more or les tallied regarding the value - but if we hadn't already 
listed tem, it may have been tough just to remember what had turned to a big 
pile 
of sooty pile of mush, (the chimney then fell in on itself, scattering 
blackness everywhere).

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Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[Debloughcostumes]

In a message dated 2/25/06 2:58:49 PM GMT Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
> years and slap the college counselor who told me
> costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
> social worker.

Know that feeling - when I wanted to be a vet (a long time ago, and before I 
realised I'd be too sentimental), my careers advisor said I should be a lab 
technician.  Cos the two are so similar!!!

I'm not surte of any bios, other than possibly on individuals' own websites, 
but personally I deided I wanted to costume, and went out and did it.  Made a 
few, then advertised, and made some more and it went on from there (was v. 
hard at first when I was working full time in an office, and costuming full 
time 
in the evenings and at weekends, and then when first went full time when I had 
to work some incredibly long hours to meet deadlines), but it worked, and I 
quit the day job to costume full time.

And that was that!

Debbie
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Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[kelly grant]

Hi Rebecca,
The program I went through at Dalhousie University in Halifax NS Canada, is 
a two year Diploma or a you can now go for a full degree program. (I'm 
heading back this Fall, to complete the degree, while I teach in the Dip 
program)


The Diploma is all you really *need*  if you want that little piece of 
paper, and the two years cover everything you would need to learn to make 
historical costume.  The program is geared to historical and theatrical 
costume. The degree program has extra classes as per a regular degree (soc, 
theatre history, electives...) and is geared to those wanting to further 
their academic careers.


The career, as in a lot of life, is a lot of hard work.  You will always be 
looking for that next job or contract. The hours are long and the money not 
so much there!  You really have to love what you are doing to work in the 
field for very long, the burn out rate is extremely high.


I have been working for 15 years, though, and this past year has been my 
best and most inspired!  I hope for another 15 just like it!  I am lucky 
though, in that my family supports me in my art, both financially and 
spiritually.  Pierre is my Gibralter, Mum is my lighthouse.


Kelly


Hello, again.

I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
what I want to do I wonder how you got there.
Any words of wisdom?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband

[Joannah Hansen]

<--- Irmgart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Re: redwork

[Debloughcostumes]

not sure if anybody else has already said this (sorry if so), but "redwork" 
comes under the heading of what was known as Spanish work, which is basically 
blackwork, done in colours other than black (in this case red, obv.)

debs
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Re: [h-cost] Looking for a magazine

[Zuzana Kraemerova]

It is possible to get an older BURDA magazine which is not older than 2 years 
here: [EMAIL PROTECTED] , but that wouldn't help you - but you could at least 
try it. They get all older versions back so they could maybe have some. 
  Else I would suggest you to make an advertisement, that usually works. I'm 
sure I could get a czech version of it, but you wouldn't understand a word, it 
could be only helpful for the patterns:-))
   
  Zuzana 
   
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I'm trying to track down a European sewing magazine for a friend. Does anyone 
know where I can get a copy of the November 2001 Burda Magazine (prefereable 
in English)?

Thanks.

Kathleen Norvell
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Re: [h-cost] Redwork

[Susan B. Farmer]

Quoting Bonnie Booker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


On 2/23/06, Carletta da Nicolosi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Out of curiosity and basically ignorance on this style of embroidery, what
is the earliest documentable date redwork was used on garments?  It is
stunning!



I teach Blackwork...which includes Redwork and other Monochrome embroidery.
I have found photos from the 16th century from the Hardwick collection at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/hardwickphoto.jpg and others at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/jesus.jpg and


Mistress Aspasia, do you (or anybody else for that matter) know more
about the painting that this detail is from?

Thanks,
Jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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[h-cost] Re: Jealousy, envy & Desired Careers (Long)

[Kathy Page]

That would be me. :-)

I think I am on the other end of the same journey as
the original poster. That is why that quote means so
much to me.
I have always been creative to the point of excess.
But having had an learning disability that I didn't
learn how to function with until I was nearly out of
school, it always held me back from what I really
wanted to do. Frankly, I didn't realise what it was
until these past couple of years. I knew it was to be
creative (I had plans on going into tech theatre
program ay Ryerson and working my wany into the
[Canadian] budding market of special effects makeup),
I had all the contacts and opportunities before me,
but I was engaged to someone much older than I when I
graduated highschool. He didn't want me to be hung up
in university, getting myself in debt, or being
anything that might have proven useful or profitable.
Frankly, he wanted a baby machine and house slave. His
exact words have been burned into my memory "You'll
never go anywhere with that, it's a waste of time. Why
don't you go for secretary or something?" This guy
said he loved me. Funny, that. It took him 3 years
after I broke up with him to realise his mistakes, and
by then it was too late. It was also too late for me
to pursue that avenue. Thus I ended up in business
accounting, which was ironic relative to my learning
disability dyscalculia- an inability to function with
numbers. It was that inability to function that held
me back from applying to university; my grades in math
were horrendous despite all my other grades being in
the upper 70-100. They would have thrown my
application out without even bothering to look deeper.
I had learned to function with this just fine my
senior year of highschool; I understand how my brain
works and I pick up numbers almost as fast as anyone
else.
All my skills have been the same from the beginning
but applied in lateral ways, thus not giving me the
satisfaction I have always been searching for. I have
never had a job that I loved so much that it got me
out of bed every morning. I did what I had to do to
get the bills paid. A friend had said to me that I
have put my time in (I am 35 years old and have held
18 jobs in my life, working since the age of 14 and
many times, held up to 3 of those jobs down at the
same time. I haven't worked for 6 years), the
opportunity exists to take a break from it - why not
grab it and enjoy life for a while? So I did. It put
me on a path that is only defining itself now. 
I was for a while, devolving as a person during that
break. The powers-that-be said "nope, this is not
where you are supposed to be heading, we're gonna
throw something at you that will smarten you up and
put you back on you path." I had a child, who is also
further defining the person I am meant to be - and of
course, put me back on my path. 
I have always sewn, drawn, sculpted... I prefer the
complex things because I like the challenge of putting
my skills to the test. Someone gave me a magazine and
a nightie pattern then said "you know, I am not really
into this french heirloom stuff. maybe you'll be into
it. Take this these."  And I did. And it was good.
That spawned into Victorian costuming passion that has
produced a closet load of garments hanging in stasis.
Since the Vic reenactment is not a strong theme in
this region, that passion died bitterly in the cradle.
It also caused a long standing consternation between
my husband and I; he resents my passion for creating
beautiful things. But because I love it so much, I am
willing to go to war with him whenever I dig into
another project. He is the sort of reason for my other
quote in my sig. *He* may not appreciate what I do,
nor take it seriously or think it worthy, but dammit,
I know I am not the only one out there that shares the
love for beautiful things and how they are made. 
Well, now I am being taken seriously by large
institutions regarding my current research. This
revived that dead ember of passion into something that
I have secure faith will go somewhere. My husband
thinks I should be paid vast amounts and awed
(*shudder* closer to feared for the insane things I
get myself into), but I know that there is more
passion than cash in this chosen field. But again, I
am willing to defend what I love enough to become the
person I am meant to be. 
It's funny that everyone mentions that they put little
or no effort into what they wear every day. I too am
the same. I consider my every day clothes functional
necessities. I rarely if ever find a trend that works
for both my sense of style and body type, so, why put
the effort into it? But when I wear my kits... I am
thoroughly empowered. The repression mask comes off
and I am more the person I really am, perhaps in some
cases more magnified. But I have less regret and more
certainty while wearing something that makes me feel
like me. I am a bundle of nerves and quite uncertain
of myself any other day. I believe I was born many
years too late. :-)

Sorry for the pr

Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes

[kelly grant]

I have found myself with a very small wardrobe, both in garb and in 
mundanes. I used to be one of those fashionistas, with a large wardrobe and 
shoes to match, until I went to school.


The clothes took a beating, shoes even worse!  I find it very difficult to 
buy clothes off the rack, as I'm now that perfect in between size...neither 
the regular sized nor the plused sizes fit.  I live in men's jeans and 
ladies tee shirts.  Getting dressed to go out is a nightmare!
Shoes are a problem, because as a cutter, I am on my feet all day. I could 
never wear sneakers, my feet can't stand to be contained.  So *when* I do 
find shoes that fit, I have them resoled three or four times before they are 
finally for the bin.


I hate this 'throw away' mentality. That, and I'm no longer a fan of 
fashion.  Funny coming from a person in the clothing business eh? Now that 
I'm cutting for history only, no more modern stuff, I can see the 
practicality of clothing from past times.  It's no wonder why we have so 
much vintage clothing, it was constructed much better! I doubt that we will 
have much left from the past decade even twenty years from now.


Kelly




Wow,

  This sounds familiar!  I have more shoes than any other man I know. 
Most of them cost at least $100, but none of those are suitable for daily 
wear! My regular shoes are cheap and I wear them untill I just can't get 
away with it anymore.  Sometimes beyond that.  Ron Carnegie

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Re: [h-cost] Redwork

[Bonnie Booker]

On 2/23/06, Carletta da Nicolosi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Out of curiosity and basically ignorance on this style of embroidery, what
> is the earliest documentable date redwork was used on garments?  It is
> stunning!


I teach Blackwork...which includes Redwork and other Monochrome embroidery.
I have found photos from the 16th century from the Hardwick collection at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/hardwickphoto.jpg and others at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/jesus.jpg and
http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/moroni/moroni2.jpg

--
> Aspasia Moonwind
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[h-cost] Re: Corded corset Shrinkage?

[Kathy Page]

Allison,
I have made a corded corset and no, it won't shrink
dramatically. Even if it does, it will stretch back
out again once under tension. Mine is made from cotton
corset coutil and linen tabby lining with hemp cording
and garment weight leather binding. I find after
wearing it for a couple of hours, I wish I could
tighten it a little, but being a front laced, I can't.
Highly absorbent garment however...

Kathy

> Does anyone have any experience with possible
> shrinkage? The site
> mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly
> variable by fabric
> type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out
> of cotton canvas.

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is 
an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to 
receive it.
-Ivan Panin






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Re: [h-cost] books

[Edith Reardon]

Sounds like an interesting program as I hate buying the same book twice.  Hard 
to do? not really as often an author will put out a book under a different name 
with other publishers.
   
  Edith
   
  Brin Kendall

Kimiko Small <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
>>
>Anyone else doing this?

Hi Beth,

I've been slowly cataloging my books on a software called Book Collector.
http://www.collectorz.com/book/
I have found the program to be very helpful, very detailed, and what I need 
for me. I can even transfer the data to my Palm, which is helpful when I am 
out shopping. I will be uploading a book review page to my personal web 
site, that takes it's info from the same program.

Each their own I guess... it's just finding the time to enter every book I 
own, so I try for a little at a time.

Kimiko



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Re: [h-cost] Listing books

[AnnBWass]

 
In a message dated 2/25/2006 11:01:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I  stopped loaning out books when I realised that I had loaned the 
third copy  of my favourite sci-fi book, and had to buy a fourth when 
it didn't come  back that time either!



I don't loan books out, either.  Too many irreplaceable, out of print  books 
that I couldn't buy another of if I wanted to!  People are welcome to  look at 
them in my presence.
 
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Jacqueline Johnson]

I've only been on it 2 or 3 days and have filled my limit of 200 books. So
if someone has say 8,000 books (as some people up there do!!) I'd hate to
try and keep track of them in a notebook. I want to know where they are I
want to know what I have.  I'm hoping they add a "lent" feature and that
sort of thing. I can also print out the list of what's on my shelves and I
can put that into a binder and put it on my shelves. I have nearly 1,000
books (and I add to it all the time) and this is one way of keeping them
together. As for time, I do the ISBNs between answering e-mails from all the
costuming lists or at night.
B~


>
> Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
> afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
> I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
> them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)
>
> suzi
>
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Re: [h-cost] Listing books

[Suzi Clarke]

At 15:38 25/02/2006, you wrote:



Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi
Two reasons for listing books:
1.  So when people ask you where you got your info, you don't have to type
it all out each time.


Ah, but I only do that with friends/colleagues, so that isn't a major problem.


2.  So you can keep track of books you've loaned out.  I still want to know
who borrowed to my little pink book on making tutus.  Are you out there


I stopped loaning out books when I realised that I had loaned the 
third copy of my favourite sci-fi book, and had to buy a fourth when 
it didn't come back that time either!


Suzi 



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Re: [h-cost] books

[Suzi Clarke]

At 15:36 25/02/2006, you wrote:

I do it for three reasons:
1) I've got so many (thousands), that I found I was getting some 
duplicates by accident.

2) I need an inventory for insurance purposes.
3) to find others with similar interests.


I have thousands of books too, at least 400 of which are costume related.

I don't need an insurance inventory, fortunately!

I already know lots of people with similar interests, and don't have 
time to keep up with them all.



With the "tags", it also helps with organization... so I can find a 
particular book again! Most systems were just too cumbersome and 
slow.. you have to enter ALL the info by hand.. that I kept putting it off.


Maybe I'm lucky? I already file in types/kinds, like factual 
reference/sci fi.classics/ historical fiction etc., and authors and 
dates, and my costume related books are in my work room, so I never 
have trouble finding a book, unless I haven't put it back where it belongs.



Beth


Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi



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Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire-careers

[Susan Data-Samtak]

40 years ago, the options were still- teacher or secretary.  I was told 
I was "too smart" to be a secretary, so I became a teacher.  We've HAVE 
come a long way, haven't we?!?!?


I was a classroom science teacher (as opposed to "moving up" into 
administration). I was knee-deep in kids / teenagers all day, for 30 
years.  It was good, but it was also time for a change.  I was able to 
retire early and now I am able to pursue any and all whims.  On my own 
schedule-no bells!


Someone in this group has the signature line "It's never too late to be 
the person you could have been"  Amen to that!


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 10:25 AM, Lalah wrote:

Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were 
supposed to be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good 
teacher, and secretary when I did that, but never happy in either 
field.  Luckily, I found other outlets as I grew older.


Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- REBECCA BURCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: REBECCA BURCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

Hello, again.

I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
years and slap the college counselor who told me
costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
social worker.

Any words of wisdom?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Edith Reardon]

It comes in handy if you want to share your books with a friend they can just 
browse through them on this site. Might help me remember which books I have 
loaned out too.  I also have to start worrying about extra insurance for my 
books.  I should start looking up the current prices on some of them to get an 
idea of the value of my collection. It will be hard to figure out the value of 
some of the out of print books.  That is a great plan to do 20 to 30 at a time, 
  
   
  Brin Kendall

Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
>librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the 
>ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. 
>With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not 
>too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I 
>still rarely have to enter all the info.
>
>Beth
>
>>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>>From: Joan Jurancich 
>>
>>Not yet. I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>>something like this. But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>>:-D. Thanks for sharing the site.


Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm 
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. 
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list 
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi




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[h-cost] Listing books

[Martha Kelly]

Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi
Two reasons for listing books:
1.  So when people ask you where you got your info, you don't have to type
it all out each time.
2.  So you can keep track of books you've loaned out.  I still want to know
who borrowed to my little pink book on making tutus.  Are you out there

Martha





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Re: [h-cost] books

[Beth and Bob Matney]

I do it for three reasons:
1) I've got so many (thousands), that I found I was getting some duplicates 
by accident.

2) I need an inventory for insurance purposes.
3) to find others with similar interests.

With the "tags", it also helps with organization... so I can find a 
particular book again! Most systems were just too cumbersome and slow.. you 
have to enter ALL the info by hand.. that I kept putting it off.


Beth

At 08:57 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:

Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:46:44 +
From: Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books

Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi


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Re: [h-cost] books

[Lalah]

The point is that some of us who buy way more books than we should, have so 
many different subjects that a catalog (or a well organized library)is pretty 
much necessary.  I had all of my books except costume and cooking in one room 
before I moved.  Wall to wall, floor to ceiling bookshelves built by me and 
filled with books in different catagories.  In this place, there isn't room to 
build a library and I must get my books out of boxes.  I didn't know about 
these organizers before, but am sure as heck going to get one of them now.  I 
can catalog as I unpack and some day I might be organized (yeah, right).  
Thanks for the info!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:46:44 +
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books

At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
>librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the 
>ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. 
>With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not 
>too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I 
>still rarely have to enter all the info.
>
>Beth
>
>>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>>From: Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>
>>Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>>something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>>:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.


Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm 
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. 
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list 
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi


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Re: [h-cost] books

[Edith Reardon]

I posted the site long time ago but still have most of my books in storage.  
Need a lifetime membership too!  I would love to get more info on books that 
should be in my library.  I bought 30 weaving books for different looms and 
styles so I think I have enough.  I need to go thru my books and get rid of 
some I'm not very happy with.  Bought 6 new book cases with a 5 yr. guarantee 
at a great price but still need more. Heard that books against an outside wall 
are great insulation, just have to convince my husband I am saving him money in 
the long run.  
   
  Brin Kendall

Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
>You can see the Costume books (103 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=costume&view=Castlegrounds
>
>Textiles (113 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=textiles&view=Castlegrounds
>
>Archaeology (108 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=archaeology&view=Castlegrounds
>
>I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go.
>
>Anyone else doing this?
>
>Beth Matney

Not yet. I've been telling myself for years that I need to do 
something like this. But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership 
:-D. Thanks for sharing the site.


Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

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[h-cost] French seams was RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Beth and Bob Matney]

Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't been able 
to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to 1600).


Thanks.
Beth


Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:44:09 -0500
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
flat-fell seamed.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry


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Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[Lalah]

Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were supposed to 
be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good teacher, and secretary 
when I did that, but never happy in either field.  Luckily, I found other 
outlets as I grew older.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- REBECCA BURCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: REBECCA BURCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

Hello, again.

I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
years and slap the college counselor who told me
costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
social worker.

Any words of wisdom?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Susan Data-Samtak]

>


Sounds like me, except that the t-shirts were free.  Given for being a 
volunteer at one horse event or another.   If only the volunteers 
received sweats, my wardrobe would be complete.


Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour
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[h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

[REBECCA BURCH]

Hello, again.

I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
years and slap the college counselor who told me
costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
social worker.

Any words of wisdom?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Re: [h-cost] books

[Suzi Clarke]

At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the 
ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. 
With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not 
too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I 
still rarely have to enter all the info.


Beth


Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
From: Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.



Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm 
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. 
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list 
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)


suzi


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Re: [h-cost] books

[Beth and Bob Matney]

Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the ISBN 
numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. With all the 
resources that Librarything can access, it's really not too bad. The books 
without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I still rarely have to enter 
all the info.


Beth


Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
From: Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.


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Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Suzi Clarke]

At 11:44 25/02/2006, you wrote:

I seem to be the square peg here. ;-) It is because of the hours it
took to create quality historical clothing that made me into a textile snob.
I detest shopping in retail stores because the quality of the textiles and
manufacture is just wrong, ugly, shoddy. When I'm pressed for time and am
desperate to replace a garment I cave and shop retail. But mostly I try to
make my own garments using the same standards I do for historical garments.

The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
flat-fell seamed. Everything is custom fitted. (No one hour Simplicity Jiffy
patterns for me). As a result of that and the care I give those garments, I
find they last a very long time. In fact, I have a cotton velveteen tunic
with mabee pearl buttons I made ten years ago which is still fashionable,
and still standing up very well. Just last year I had to retire a blue silk
noile hand-embroidered shirt I'd worn fairly steadily for about eight years,
and a gorgeous black silk noile tunic.

Even the casual garments I wear are made with the same care, and as
a result stand the test of time. I figure it's money and time well invested.



If I am making clothes for me, I am not making clothes for customers. 
As a professional costumer, this is not good. Also I hate making 
modern clothes for myself (not fond of making *any* clothes for 
myself.) Instead of spending time making clothes for myself, I could 
be making a corset, for example. I am still wearing t-shirts I bought 
in 1989 in Florida for $5.00 so why waste time making for myself.


In fact one year, I was so pushed for time, I paid one of the ladies 
who occasionally sews for me to make my holiday wardrobe, while I 
sewed 800 peacock feathers on a cloak. (I couldn't afford to pay her 
for the time it would have taken her to sew on the feathers - I could 
afford to pay for the time to make a shirt.)


Suzi (who really doesn't enjoy the making up bit of costuming) 



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Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns

[Dianne & Greg Stucki]

- Original Message - 
From: "Lavolta Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns


It really depends.  Some designer clothing just caters to the desire to 
have something "different" without being better quality. Like rib T-shirts 
or tank tops or camisoles or henleys with a little lace sewn on here and 
there. Anyone can dye a cotton knit shirt from Dharma and add interesting 
trims, cheaper.  (I've been doing a lot of that.)


I have *plans* for this summer. They involve white fabric (both knit and 
woven), an order from Dharma Trading, and the embroidery function on my new 
sewing machine...heh heh heh


Dianne 


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[h-cost] RE: Taschen books

[Kate Cole]

I've got the Fashion book, then saw the two-volume set on special offer (I 
think it was 9.99 GBP) at Borders. Despite the fantastic price, I flipped 
through it and saw only a couple of extra pictures that weren't in the 
Fashion book and decided it wasn't worth having both. But of the two, I 
think the two-volume set may be slightly bigger.


I don't see how Borders could sell the two volumes separately as they are 
packed together in a box cover - they probably only list it as the first 
volume for some computer-related reason. But unless they're going to send 
you a box cover with only one book in it, which would be very peculiar 
indeed, I'd bet it's both. Plus, the whole thing was shrink-wrapped in 
Borders - I had to hunt round the whole shop to find one that was open so I 
could look at it.


Hope this helps,

Kate



Message: 10
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 22:03:46 -0500
From: "A. Thurman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Fashion book - any difference between
editions?
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

This may have been covered before, but just in case:

Is there any real difference between this edition of the Kyoto Costume
Institute's "Fashion":


And the two volume in a slipcase edition?:


I ask because I've had the former on order with Borders.com for over
two months and it doesn't look like they'll be able to get it. The
first volume of the second edition is listed, but no mention is made
at the Border's site that it includes both volumes. Please advise.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.





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[h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns

[Five Rivers Chapmanry]

I seem to be the square peg here. ;-) It is because of the hours it
took to create quality historical clothing that made me into a textile snob.
I detest shopping in retail stores because the quality of the textiles and
manufacture is just wrong, ugly, shoddy. When I'm pressed for time and am
desperate to replace a garment I cave and shop retail. But mostly I try to
make my own garments using the same standards I do for historical garments. 

The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
flat-fell seamed. Everything is custom fitted. (No one hour Simplicity Jiffy
patterns for me). As a result of that and the care I give those garments, I
find they last a very long time. In fact, I have a cotton velveteen tunic
with mabee pearl buttons I made ten years ago which is still fashionable,
and still standing up very well. Just last year I had to retire a blue silk
noile hand-embroidered shirt I'd worn fairly steadily for about eight years,
and a gorgeous black silk noile tunic.

Even the casual garments I wear are made with the same care, and as
a result stand the test of time. I figure it's money and time well invested.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 00:33:34 -0500
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] 
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response

*snip*
>   This sounds familiar!  I have more shoes than any other man I know. 
> Most of them cost at least $100, but none of those are suitable for daily 
> wear! My regular shoes are cheap and I wear them untill I just can't get 
> away with it anymore.  Sometimes beyond that.  People often dont recognize

> me out of costume because I dress well in period, but shabbily out!  I 
> actually have just started spending some money to amend that, but it is 
> money that I have been forced to spend out of embarrassment.
>
> I wonder how common this is on this list?


I'm betting that it's much more common than one would think. I know a number

of folks whose period dress is better made and is a much higher fabric 
quality than what they wear in the modern world, myself included.

Since my illness last year, my "uniform" has been sweat pants/capris, tee 
shirts and tennis shoes. I've pretty much stopped doing my beloved Italian 
gowns and have opted for 14th century stuff since it's easier for me to 
manage. My hair is much shorter now (it started falling out 4 months after 
my hospital stay); it's been years since it's been this short and I can't do

a thing with it! :-)

Most of the stuff that I've made recently is made of linen, linen/silk 
blend, wool, wool/silk blend. None of my modern clothing comes even close.

kate 




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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 190
*


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Re: [h-cost] books

[Kimiko Small]

At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:

I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.

>
Anyone else doing this?


Hi Beth,

I've been slowly cataloging my books on a software called Book Collector.
http://www.collectorz.com/book/
I have found the program to be very helpful, very detailed, and what I need 
for me. I can even transfer the data to my Palm, which is helpful when I am 
out shopping. I will be uploading a book review page to my personal web 
site, that takes it's info from the same program.


Each their own I guess... it's just finding the time to enter every book I 
own, so I try for a little at a time.


Kimiko



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Re: [h-cost] Plates from "The Image of Ireland", 1581

[Kimiko Small]

At 01:09 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
This set of plates is a contemporary look at Irish costume (looks like 
males only, in battle scenes).


http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/ireland.html


Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Yes, lovely plates with great detail for being online. I found that site, 
or maybe it was posted here, a few months back. I based a friend's outfit 
on the dinner scene bard.

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0055_jpg.htm

There is what I think is a female shown in the burning farmhouse image. 
She's at the bottom right, letter B.

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0054_jpg.htm

Thanks for reminding me of these plates. I needed some images of Irish 
garments for a project I am working on.


Kimiko


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Re: [h-cost] corded corset shrinkage?

[Kimiko Small]

Hi Allison,

I haven't done any specific corded projects yet (I am planning on a corded 
pair of bodies soon), but I've done Trapunto accented garments, which is 
very similar, as both require sewing channels and then stuffing them with 
some sort of cord, or yarn in my case.


There is no way to specifically determine the shrinkage factor. It will 
depend on your fabric, your cording, and how tightly you sew them together, 
and how high the cords build up. You can try to make a good guess by making 
a sample of what you want to do, measuring carefully before and after to 
see how much shrinkage you get.


What I did with my trapunto project (a doublet) was outline the garment 
pattern and add about 2" all around the area to be worked. I then sewed my 
casings, and filled with the cording I chose. I then laid my pattern back 
down over the piece and marked again, then trimmed the extra. Since you are 
doing a garment, make sure to mark the grain of the fabric so you can match 
that up again when you put the pattern back on.


hth,

Kimiko

At 07:10 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:

A friend helped me drape a pattern for an early 17th c. fencing
doublet. For protection and support I want to cord the
lining/interlining like the corset described here:

before adding quilted cotton padding/outer layer.

Does anyone have any experience with possible shrinkage? The site
mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly variable by fabric
type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out of cotton canvas.



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Re: [h-cost] 16th century Scottish costume

[Kimiko Small]

At 01:19 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:

Here are two pages from Scottish metrical psalter books from the 16th century.

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0010_JPG.htm

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0011_JPG.htm

Again, only males  , but something is better than nothing, I guess.

Joan Jurancich



Oooh, I hadn't seen these before. Very cool. Thanks!

Kimiko


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RE: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question

[Sharon at Collierfam.com]

My husband is in "Once Upon A Mattress" and just bought "jazz" shoes-- flat,
black, with a small heel. Not perfectly period, but close, easy to find and
comfortable.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 11:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question


 
In a message dated 2/23/2006 10:26:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Flat  pumps, very like ladies' shoes of the same period.



Ditto--definitely NOT boots--they were not proper for the "drawing room"
nor 
for the ballroom.
 
My husband wears a loafer type shoe, but with the seam stitched inside,
like 
this.
_http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplayDetailVi
ew
?storeId=1&langId=-1&contractId=100&catalogId=401&parent_category_rn
=1
83&categoryId=190&productId=637&imageType=1&occasion=190_ 
(http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplayDetailVi
ew?storeId=1&langI
d=-1&contractId=100&catalogId=401&parent_category_rn=183&categoryId=
19
0&productId=637&imageType=1&occasion=190) 
  Regular formal pumps don't seem to come wide enough to fit  him.  But if 
you can find them, they would be best.  
 
Ann Wass
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