RE: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

2008-02-08 Thread Abel, Cynthia
Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a thesis loan 
from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at best.

Dissertation Abstracts International is the best source to actually purchase a 
copy, but there are many theses that simply aren't available, especially 
anything older than ten years. And they aren't cheap. I purchased a bound two 
volume thesis about 25+ years ago I badly needed for a paper and it was $30 
then. No, it wasn't historic costume related, but I still have it(Like this 
cost me a whole $30 and I had to eat peanut butter sandwiches for lunch for a 
month to make up the cost of it and the rest of my interlibrary loans for the 
stupid paper which I did snag an A for anyway!).
Cindy Abel


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Beth and Bob 
Matney
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 10:01 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

While I was browsing the British Library's Integrated Catalogue (using the 
search terms costume thesis), I ran across the following of interest. After 
several years of trying to interlibrary loan British theses and dissertations 
from every library in the state (universities and my local), I have given up 
and started to selectively purchase them (usually not TOO expensive as 
microform.. except those from Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can 
comment on them?

Thanks,
Beth Matney

Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 1406-1460..  University of London, 
1987.. DX189880
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-19633?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=10format=999

Ege, Ufuk.: Costume in Chaucer's works with special reference to the visual 
history of costume in his era..  University of Lancaster, 1993.. DX228822
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-78349?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=08format=999

Lewin, Agathe. Durer and costume : a study of the dress in some of Durer's 
paintings and drawings / (London : University of London, 1992.)  thesis DX231935
2 v. : ill. (some col.), ports. (some col.) ; 33 cm.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-63366?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=11format=999

Sigüenza Pelarda, Cristina, La moda en el vestir en la pintura gótica aragonesa 
/ (Zaragoza [Spain] : Institución Fernando el Católico, Excma. Diputación de 
Zaragoza, 2000.)
  YF.2005.a.9837 (ISBN 8478205764)
257 p. : col. ill. ; 21 cm. Originally presented as the author's thesis, 
Universidad de Zaragoza, 1997. Includes bibliographical references (p. 183-190) 
and index.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-61578?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=18format=999

Brieske, Vera. Schmuck und Trachtbestandteile des Graberfeldes von Liebenau, 
Kr. Nienburg/Weser : 
vergleichende Studien zur Gesellschaft der fruhmittelalterlichen Sachsen im 
Spannungsfeld zwischen Nord und Sud / (Oldenburg : Isensee, 2001.)
  X.0425/198(5,6) (ISBN 3895987484 (pbk.))
386 p. : ill., maps ; 30 cm. Originally presented as the author's 
thesis_Universitat Munster, 1998. 
Includes bibliographical references.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-51792?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=23format=999

While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English Dress 
1050-1180 by Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 249 leaves : 
ill ; 30 cm Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule Library Theses Th5157  
OCLC: 62355641 also in King's College London - Courtauld Institute of Art 
Library ; Theses K4708 HAR  

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Re: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

2008-02-08 Thread Robin Netherton

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
While I was browsing the British Library's Integrated Catalogue (using 
the search terms costume thesis), I ran across the following of 
interest. After several years of trying to interlibrary loan British 
theses and dissertations from every library in the state (universities 
and my local), I have given up and started to selectively purchase them 
(usually not TOO expensive as microform.. except those from 
Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them?




Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 1406-1460..  University of 
London, 1987.. DX189880
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-19633?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=10format=999 


I saw pieces of this spread out on her living room floor in 1989! I'm 
surprised the degree has such a late date on it, as this is the work 
that got Margaret Scott the job of writing the 14th-15th c. volume of 
the Visual History of Dress series in the mid-1980s. She studied at the 
Courtauld, and IIRC almost no one there was doing work in the medieval 
period at the time. I don't know if anyone else has ever done an 
in-depth study of Scottish medieval dress. Among the little I recall, 
she showed how Scotland got much of its influence from Flanders, as 
England got its influence from France. I've noticed that bits and pieces 
of this worked its way into her other writing over the years.




While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English 
Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 
249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm
Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule Library Theses Th5157  OCLC: 
62355641
also in King's College London - Courtauld Institute of Art Library ; 
Theses K4708 HAR 


Jennifer Harris is absolutely top-notch for 12th century, and one of the 
few costume historians out there working in this era who has an eye for 
practical clothing construction issues and not just literary and 
rhetorical aspects. This should be good.


--Robin
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[h-cost] more Theses in the UK

2008-02-08 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I did a bit more literature search through Copac.. Here are some more 
that I found of interest. I think that another trip to London is in 
order... (my next scheduled is 2010 when the VA and the Ashmolean 
expansions are complete). grin


Beth

Shirazi-Mahajan, Faegheh. Costumes and textile designs of the 
Il-Khanid, Timurid and Safavid dynasties in Iran from the thirteenth 
to the seventeenth century. thesis (Ph.D.) - Ohio State University, 
1985. 287 pp. OCLC:82926908 UMI 8519027


Toplis, Alison. The dress of the Merovingian court in the Frankish 
kingdom, circa 450 - 700 A.D. : a study in early medieval dress. 
vi,88 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. Notes:Dissertation: 
(MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1993.


Ashelford, Jane. Emblems in English costume and furnishing, 
1560-1612. 2 v. in 1 : ill.; 28 cm.. Notes:Plates 6, 34, 44  49 are 
missing. Dissertation (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute 
of Art), 1973. Includes bibliographical references.


Hamnett, Melissa. Fashioning a self : issues of identity surrounding 
women's dress in England, 1590-1640..:viii, 165 leaves : ill., ports. 
; 30 cm. Bibliography : leaves 159-165. Typescript. Submitted to 
fulfill the requirements of the M.A. in the History of Design, 
jointly run by the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Royal College 
of Art. Thesis (M.A.) -- Royal College of Art. 2004. Location: VA Libraries


Currie, Elizabeth.  A Florentine family wardrobe 1566-1606.125 
leaves, [44] leaves of plates : ill., general. table ; 30 cm. 
Bibliography : leaves 120-125. Glossary. Notes: Submitted to fulfill 
requirement of M.A. History of Design course jointly run by the Royal 
College of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum. Typescript. 
Thesis(M.A.)--Royal College of Art, 1998. Location: VA Libraries


Drum, Karen. Footwear of the early Tudor period, 1485-1550 : and a 
catalogue of the early Tudor footwear collection of the Department of 
Costume, Museum of London.:2 v. in 1 : ill. ; 31 cm. Includes 
bibliographical references. Notes:Dissertation (MA)--University of 
London (Courtauld Institute of Art), 1982.


Fingerlin, Ilse. Gurtel des hohen und spaten Mittelalters. 
(Series:Kunstwissenschaftliche Studien (Deutscher Kunstverlag) ; Bd. 
46). Published: [Munchen] : Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1971. 495 p. : 
ill. ; 26 cm. Bibliography: p. 300-301. ISBN: ISBN:3422006451 9783422006454
OCLC:1446877 (37 US libraries) Notes:A revision of the author's 
thesis, Freiburg i.B., 1967.


Dubner-Manthey, Birgit. Die Gurtelgehange als Trager von 
Kleingeraten, Amuletten und Anhangern symbolischer Bedeutung im 
Rahmen der fruhmittelalterlichen Frauentract : archaologische 
Untersuchungen zu einem charakteristischen Bestandteil der weiblichen 
Tracht. Published: [s.n., Berlin], 1987. :200 p. : ill. ; 21 cm. 
Includes bibliographical references (p. 7-22). Notes:Thesis 
(doctoral)--Freie Universitat Berlin, 1987


Straw, Amanda Louise. An investigation into the work of Hans Holbein 
the Younger as a source for understanding Englishwomen's headwear, 
c.1526-1543. 48 leaves : ill ; 32cm. Includes bibliography. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA) University of London (Courtauld Institute of Art) 1995


Deevy, Mary B. Medieval ring brooches in Ireland : a study of 
jewellery, dress, and society . (Series:Wordwell monograph series ; 
no. 1) Published: Bray, Co. Wicklow : Wordwell, 1998. ix, 142 p : 
ill. (some col.), maps ; 25 cm..Includes bibliographical references 
(p. 75-85). ISBN: 1869857240. OCLC:40135497 (17 US libraries) 
Notes:This book is based on an M.A. thesis submitted to the 
Department of Archaeology, University College Dublin, 1995.


Lehner, Julia. Die Mode im alten Nurnberg : modische Entwicklung und 
sozialer Wandel in Nu rnberg, aufgezeigt an den Nurnberger 
Kleiderordnungen (Series:Nurnberger Werkstu cke zur Stadt- und 
Landesgeschichte ; Bd. 36) Published: Nurnberg : Stadtarchiv Nurnberg 
: Auslieferung, Universita tsbuchhandlung Korn und Berg, 1984. :xi, 
288 p : ill ; 21 cmI. ncludes index, Bibliography: p. 275-280. ISBN: 
3874320952 OCLC:60011742 18154420 (15 US libraries)
Notes:Originally presented as the author's thesis 
(doctoral)--Universitat Erlangen-Nurnberg, 1984


Symonds, Anna. Queen of Kings : the dress of Anne of Denmark. 129 
leaves : ill. ; 31cm. Bibliography : leaves 100 - 107. 
Notes:Dissertation: (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute 
of Art), 2002


Dawson, Elizabeth. Some aspects of court entertainment in fifteenth 
century Burgundy : with special reference to Olivier de la Marche's 
descriptions of the theatrical costumes worn at the Feast of the 
Pheasant in 1454 and at Charles the Bold's wedding banquet in 
1468.:90 leaves ; 32 cm. Includes bibliographical references. 
Notes:Dissertation (MA)--University of London (Courtauld Institute of 
Art), 1989.


Hill, Virginia Arabella Maria. Women's dress at the court of the 
Sforza : a study of the foreign influences on the fashions worn at 
the 

[h-cost] lace supplier

2008-02-08 Thread Katy Bishop
Has anyone, especially those in the US, used this company for cotton laces:

http://cottonlace.com/

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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[h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

2008-02-08 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
While I was browsing the British Library's 
Integrated Catalogue (using the search terms 
costume thesis), I ran across the following of 
interest. After several years of trying to 
interlibrary loan British theses and 
dissertations from every library in the state 
(universities and my local), I have given up and 
started to selectively purchase them (usually not 
TOO expensive as microform.. except those from 
Cambridge...). Has anyone seen these and can comment on them?


Thanks,
Beth Matney

Scott, Margaret Cochrane.: Dress in Scotland 
1406-1460..  University of London, 1987.. DX189880

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-19633?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=10format=999

Ege, Ufuk.: Costume in Chaucer's works with 
special reference to the visual history of 
costume in his era..  University of Lancaster, 1993.. DX228822

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-78349?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=08format=999

Lewin, Agathe. Durer and costume : a study of the 
dress in some of Durer's paintings and drawings / 
(London : University of London, 1992.)  thesis DX231935

2 v. : ill. (some col.), ports. (some col.) ; 33 cm.
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-63366?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=11format=999

Sigüenza Pelarda, Cristina, La moda en el vestir 
en la pintura gótica aragonesa / (Zaragoza 
[Spain] : Institución Fernando el Católico, 
Excma. Diputación de Zaragoza, 2000.)

 YF.2005.a.9837 (ISBN 8478205764)
257 p. : col. ill. ; 21 cm. Originally presented 
as the author’s thesis, Universidad de Zaragoza, 
1997. Includes bibliographical references (p. 183-190) and index.

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-61578?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=18format=999

Brieske, Vera. Schmuck und Trachtbestandteile des 
Graberfeldes von Liebenau, Kr. Nienburg/Weser : 
vergleichende Studien zur Gesellschaft der 
fruhmittelalterlichen Sachsen im Spannungsfeld 
zwischen Nord und Sud / (Oldenburg : Isensee, 2001.)

 X.0425/198(5,6) (ISBN 3895987484 (pbk.))
386 p. : ill., maps ; 30 cm. Originally presented 
as the author’s thesis_Universitat Munster, 1998. 
Includes bibliographical references.

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/HXYFJUV73M1YBTXDT15IGDKBHESDEDH7CY6VU7E4UMIND9ITX6-51792?func=full-set-setset_number=075256set_entry=23format=999

While not in the BL Catalogue, this is also of interest:
The development of Romanesque-Byzantine Elements 
in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by Jennifer 
Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977) 249 leaves : ill ; 30 cm
Note:Includes bibliography. Location: Joule 
Library Theses Th5157  OCLC: 62355641
also in King's College London - Courtauld 
Institute of Art Library ; Theses K4708 HAR  


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[h-cost] Grant offer in Germany Pls pass on

2008-02-08 Thread Penny Roberts
I'm not subscribed to any of the sca mailing lists, but i ran into 
this stipend on my Russian grants LJ group, and maybe people on the 
SCA lists might be interested.

www.hab.de/forschung/stipendien/
http://www.hab.de/forschung/stipendien/post_doc-e.htm

This is a grant for library research on the Middle Ages and Early 
Modern Era. Intended for postdocs (or, as the Russian so quaintly 
says, people who have just defended their dissertations). They pay 
1000 or 1600 Euro per month, plus travel expenses to Wolfenbeuttel.



   
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[h-cost] RE: Hawaii

2008-02-08 Thread M311
I was just in Hawaii--the same area in November/December. The Aloha stadium  
has the market but on game days it closes at 2 pm the other days it is later-- 
Open every Wednesday, Saturdays  and Sundays from 6am-3pm. There is a $1 fee 
per person over age 11 also.  There are a number of booths that sell clothes 
and a few that sell  Hawaiian print material there. Their website is: 
_http://www.alohastadiumswapmeet.net/_ (http://www.alohastadiumswapmeet.net/) 
 
Hilo Hatties  (_http://www.hilohattie.com/_ (http://www.hilohattie.com/) ) is 
another  great store to got to. They are a good place to get food at plus 
coffee. If you  want to bring home pineapples this is a great place to get them 
as they are  packed with the approved agricultural stamp for customs--this 
applies for  anything going out of the state--even to the rest of the US. Each 
airline allows  for so many to be brought on the airplane in addition to your 
luggage without a  penalty--they will tell you the current regulations if you 
ask. For an added fee  they will mail them directly to your house also--their 
name brand stuff can be  mailed home also. If you check in the discount area of 
Hilo Hatties there might  be some wrap skirts that are on the larger size but 
for a great deal. I bought  one of those to remake into something my size as 
I loved the print and the price  was right.
 
Here are some good websites to check out: _http://www.visit-oahu.com/_ 
(http://www.visit-oahu.com/) 
_http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/_ (http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/) 
_http://www.internationalmarketplacewaikiki.com/_ 
(http://www.internationalmarketplacewaikiki.com/) 
_http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/_ (http://www.gohawaii.com/oahu/) 
Shopping--  
_http://www.gohawaii.com/search?types=listings%2Ceventslocation=41category=574subcategory=q_
 
(http://www.gohawaii.com/search?types=listings,eventslocation=41category=574subcategory=q)
 =
 
If you use a credit card the stores are big on asking to see id. This was  
something I was not used to and did not have id with me one time--it was in the 
 
car. Also if you go to downtown Wiakiki parking is free at the meters on  
weekends. It might be after 5 also but I did not go there at night. There is a  
great Cheese Cake Factory restaurant down there also.
There are lots of one way streets also in Wiakiki and we had to turn around  
alot. 
I hope this helps.
Kelly  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.mysensaria.com/time2spa  






**Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. 
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300025
48)
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Re: [h-cost] Costume related Thesis of interest

2008-02-08 Thread Heather Rose Jones


On Feb 8, 2008, at 8:22 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:

Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a  
thesis loan from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at  
best.


Just a comment from the university point of view on the question:   
Very often the university has only a single copy of a thesis  
available to the public -- I know U.C. Berkeley only as a single copy  
of mine.  And that one copy is the proof that it was ever written  
in the first place.  (My department also has a copy, but it isn't for  
public circulation.)  So the consequences of that copy going  
walkabout while off on interlibrary loan are fairly dire.   This  
might explain why they're a little leery of lending them out.


Heather
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RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-08 Thread monica spence

I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
says dry clean, then dryclean.
Monica
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Cozit / Liz
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:34 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


I'm one of those folks who often washes things by hand that tell you to
dry clean - when they're 100% polyester, linen, and usually rayon and
silk (depends on how daring I feel with that one, as it varies a lot).

I just bought a nice dress that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It says
dry clean only, short cycle but also says light steam, light press.
I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also (hey,
I've got allergy skin - the fewer chemicals up against it the
better)... but wanted to ask this group if anyone's tried washing that
combination with decent results before... as I'm feeling nervous about
the combo.  My *guess* is that the polyester is mostly in the design of
the fabric, not in the general weave... it's jacquard-ish leaf 
patterned slightly shinier than the matte black of the rest of the material.

Anyone out there able to say either probably ok or definitely
don't?  It was under $100, but more than I'd really like to throw out
by totally messing it up before wearing.


Fingers crossed!
-Liz  (hey, I never run into this when doing costuming - I wash the heck
of the material before I sew it - but no time to manage to make
something before I need it in March)

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[h-cost] Re: OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-08 Thread Pierre Sandy Pettinger
I'd dry clean it also.  However, do you have a cleaners that uses the 
CO-2 cleaning method?   It uses far less chemicals and lower temps 
than regular dry cleaning processes.  Since we got one in our town 
(Here in Lincoln, Nebraska, the chain is Hangers), I haven't used 
anyone else, and have had good results, including getting cigarette 
smoke smell out of a wool beret.


Another argument for dry cleaning - rayon can shrink, even in cold 
water on gentle - I washed the top of a rayon pantsuit after spilling 
something on it - it shrank enough that I couldn't button it 
after.  It might make your dress look like it was made of bubble 
fabric - not a good thing.


Sandy

At 08:34 PM 2/8/2008, you wrote:

I just bought a nice dress that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It 
says dry clean only, short cycle but also says light steam, light press.
I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also 
(hey, I've got allergy skin - the fewer chemicals up against it 
the better)...


-Liz
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Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
 -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  



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Re: [h-cost] lace supplier

2008-02-08 Thread Ann Catelli
No, but I can see why you'd want to, especially if
those samples really are cotton lace.

Ann in CT

--- Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Has anyone, especially those in the US, used this
 company for cotton laces:
 
 http://cottonlace.com/
 
 Katy



  

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Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-08 Thread Dawn

monica spence wrote:

I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
says dry clean, then dryclean.


Most of the time the tag says dry clean because the manufacturer 
doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is safe. They are 
required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is too 
much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular fabric 
or a  line of clothing. So it says dry clean and they are covered.


It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you 
are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or 
cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low 
iron setting.



Dawn

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