[h-cost] What's on the horizon

2009-04-07 Thread Penny Ladnier
Take a look at this from MIRAlabs at the University of Geneva:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrJS72lkX_cNR=1

Then look at the finished product:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekc_9vPDbo8feature=related

Back in 1997, I searched for graduate level programs to do this for costume and 
fashion.  At the time, I couldn't find a program.

MIRAlabs is working on a few more projects similar to this:
http://www.miralab.unige.ch/

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not!

2009-04-07 Thread Ron Carnegie
Of course the originals have seen are round and not oval.  The leaves
(flaps) are held up in period by a stitched tacks, hook and eyes, or tapes,
usually two for each leave.  The arrangement of the leaves depends upon
style.  They are properly referred to as cocked hats, tricorn being a modern
term for them.


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!

You know what the worse part of using a ball or bowl,is the shap is indeed
round.
Most peoples heads are actually oval, so if you set it to dry on a ball the
fit is off and really hard to keep on your head.
I had this happen with a very nice 1900 era straw boater, I set it to dry on
a gallon paint can and when it was dry it looked like a cheap party hat,a
round hat trying to sit on my oval head.
If I had to do it over again, I would don a plastic shower cap and wear the
darn hat til it dried.Those wig head stands usually have a very small
circumference,too
melody


--- On Mon, 4/6/09, stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
wrote:


From: stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 5:38 PM


The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits 
were out of the way.

The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is
not 
unheard of but the dome is the most common).

So:

Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one,
pin 
it up and cut the brim;

Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to
high 
heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you
want 
and leave it to dry;

As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to 
leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size;

Add decoration and edging when dry,

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] What's on the horizon

2009-04-07 Thread R Lloyd Mitchell
Fantastic!
I had no idea that there was this development in Fashion softwear.  What fun to 
see how the garment will move before it is even cut.
Yesterday I received a copy of Textiles in America 1650-1870 (published 2007) 
Florence Montgomery.  Did I miss a h-costume discussion of this volume?  It is 
also fantastic!  The resource information seems to be so complete.
Kathleen
-Original Message-
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com
Sent 4/7/2009 4:41:33 AM
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What's on the horizonTake a look at this from MIRAlabs at the 
University of Geneva:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrJS72lkX_cNR=1
Then look at the finished 
product:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekc_9vPDbo8feature=related
Back in 1997, I searched for graduate level programs to do this for costume and 
fashion.  At the time, I couldn't find a program.
MIRAlabs is working on a few more projects similar to 
this:http://www.miralab.unige.ch/
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websiteswww.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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Re: [h-cost] Textiles in America

2009-04-07 Thread aquazoo

 Yesterday I received a copy of Textiles in America 1650-1870 (published
 2007) Florence Montgomery.  Did I miss a h-costume discussion of this
 volume?  It is also fantastic!  The resource information seems to be so
 complete.
 Kathleen

Textiles in America was originally published a few years back, I think in
the 80s. I haven't seen the 2007 edition, but glad to hear it's available
again. Maybe it has additional content? I agree, it's a great book with
lots of wonderful information and illustrations.

 -Carol

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Re: [h-cost] What's on the horizon

2009-04-07 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
That is so interesting, Penny.   Thanks for sharing.  ALmost makes me  
want to go back to school to study it.  Seems fascinating.  Has to be  
very expensive though.


One thing occurred to me though.  The virtual model has that  
typically 1950s wasp waist that is incredibly small.   The butt is  
pretty big too.  I went back to look at the real model they designed  
from and noticed that she is not built like that, so they obviously  
did some enhancing there to achieve that 50s look.  I know that women  
were able, with the help of corsets, to get those small waists, but I  
never thought anyone could get such a tiny waist until I saw  
Vampira.  You wouldn't believe it possible unless you saw her.


Sylvia R

On Apr 7, 2009, at 2:41 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:


Take a look at this from MIRAlabs at the University of Geneva:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrJS72lkX_cNR=1

Then look at the finished product:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekc_9vPDbo8feature=related

Back in 1997, I searched for graduate level programs to do this for  
costume and fashion.  At the time, I couldn't find a program.


MIRAlabs is working on a few more projects similar to this:
http://www.miralab.unige.ch/

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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Re: [h-cost] What's on the horizon

2009-04-07 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 01:41 AM 4/7/2009, you wrote:

Take a look at this from MIRAlabs at the University of Geneva:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrJS72lkX_cNR=1

Then look at the finished product:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekc_9vPDbo8feature=related

Back in 1997, I searched for graduate level programs to do this for 
costume and fashion.  At the time, I couldn't find a program.


MIRAlabs is working on a few more projects similar to this:
http://www.miralab.unige.ch/

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history


Wow!  That's impressive.  And very lovely, too.


Joan Jurancich
joa...@surewest.net 


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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not!

2009-04-07 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/6/2009 10:54:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
celticredhead2...@yahoo.com writes:

Those  wig head stands usually have a very small  circumference,too



***
 
Indeed they do. But it's a good start. You can pad them up with layers  of 
heavy felt or wadding or even papier-mache or plaster bandage or a  
combination. 
Cover it with some plastic wrap or foil so the lacquer won't stick  to it. 
Voila!
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221421323x1201417385/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID
%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62)
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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not!

2009-04-07 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/6/2009 10:54:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
celticredhead2...@yahoo.com writes:

Those  wig head stands usually have a very small  circumference,too



*
 
Oh...I forgot to addsometimes after you turn up the brim, the size  is a 
little smaller than when you started. You may want to start with a slightly  
larger hat.
 
I made some great looking bicorns for comedia del arte characters out of  
cheap big straw hats I got at the beach T-shirt shop and covered with  velvet 
and 
silksusing the straw hat merely as a base. If you do something  like 
this, the fabric also makes the hat smaller (especially the velvet...for  
obvious 
reasons). And if the hat has nothing to stabilize the crown, it is a  good 
idea to put something...a grosgrain ribbon or a leather band...on the  
inside...which also makes the hat smaller.
 
Also, once you've pinned up the brim the way you want, if you can steam the  
hat before you lacquer it, it will help the felt or straw want to stay in 
that  position. I have an old hat steamer with a big brown glass bottle you 
fill 
 with water, you flip the red jeweled switch and steam shoots out of it like  
crazy. But a clothes steamer or an iron with vertical steam can be used. It 
just  takes longer. You could use a kettle.
 
Be careful. Don't burn yourself!
 
 
 
 
 
 
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221421323x1201417385/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID
%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62)
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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not!

2009-04-07 Thread Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Jas. Townsend has very nice wide-and-flat-brim hats and some made-up  
tricorns as well, all felt. I've used both and was very happy. Not  
too expensive.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Apr 6, 2009, at 10:53 PM, Melody Watts wrote:

You know what the worse part of using a ball or bowl,is the shap is  
indeed round.
Most peoples heads are actually oval, so if you set it to dry on a  
ball the fit is off and really hard to keep on your head.
I had this happen with a very nice 1900 era straw boater, I set it  
to dry on a gallon paint can and when it was dry it looked like a  
cheap party hat,a round hat trying to sit on my oval head.
If I had to do it over again, I would don a plastic shower cap and  
wear the darn hat til it dried.Those wig head stands usually have a  
very small circumference,too

melody


--- On Mon, 4/6/09, stils...@netspace.net.au  
stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:



From: stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 5:38 PM


The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the  
floppy bits

were out of the way.

The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown  
(cylindrical is not

unheard of but the dome is the most common).

So:

Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a  
larger one, pin

it up and cut the brim;

Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all  
stink to high
heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape  
that you want

and leave it to dry;

As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin  
head to

leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size;

Add decoration and edging when dry,

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses

2009-04-07 Thread Katy Bishop
Thanks Ann, it's a girl this time!  A whole new set of outfits to
research and make.  I just hope she's not a tomboy and wants to wear
period dresses.

Katy

On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 7:45 PM, Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Best wishes, Katy.

 I see some sewing-for-baby in your future, unless you saved some of the tiny 
 clothes I saw your boys in.  It has been quite a while.

 Ann in CT

 --- On Sun, 4/5/09, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:



 I am currently 6 1/2 months pregnant so I have been thinking about
 what to wear for the various eras of events I have during this time.
 1820s was really easy--my normal dress fit great without any
 alteration.  Also 1860s, just raised the waist (went the sacque and
 petticoat route last pregnancy); still have to make a gestation stay
 though.  Just last night I wore an 1890s wrapper all dolled up for
 evening wear to a dance performance.

 For 1910s here are a few Past Patterns patterns I have found/hope to
 find useful:

 This can be adjusted for pregnancy:

 http://www.pastpatterns.com/8109.html
 a 1914 tea gown--with pleated front that I would gather for pregnancy,
 the waist is nice and high.

 This one:
 http://www.pastpatterns.com/4269.html
 a 1911 day dress  The waist could be raised a bit and the skirt
 altered, and I wonder if nursing slits could be hidden under the yoke
 for post-pregnancy.

 2 patterns that actually mention maternity wear, but may be too late
 in the decade:

 http://www.pastpatterns.com/8714.html
 Ladies' Dress. Suitable for maternity or general wear

 and

 http://www.pastpatterns.com/9225.html
 Ladies' Dress. Suitable for maternity wear.

 I hope to make one of these for a party I have to go to in April, a
 Ragtime Ball, and then wear post-pregnancy in August at Newport Dance
 Week.


 Katy



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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not! ..maybe...

2009-04-07 Thread Melody Watts
Weren't the majority of the hats for the era, merely carried under the arm or 
in the hand,as a sort of fashion accessory? So if not actually worn,it 
wouldn't matter on the shape of the headpiece.
Perhaps they had Dresshats,with the rounded crown and everyday/working mans 
hats,shaped for a head, that were worn, the Accessory hats,not actually being 
worn and subject to sweat,weather and wear and tear will have survived.The 
actual everyday worn on your head hat will have worn out and been discarded 
eventually.
just a muse.
melody
 
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net wrote:


From: Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 5:32 AM


Of course the originals have seen are round and not oval.  The leaves
(flaps) are held up in period by a stitched tacks, hook and eyes, or tapes,
usually two for each leave.  The arrangement of the leaves depends upon
style.  They are properly referred to as cocked hats, tricorn being a modern
term for them.


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!

You know what the worse part of using a ball or bowl,is the shap is indeed
round.
Most peoples heads are actually oval, so if you set it to dry on a ball the
fit is off and really hard to keep on your head.
I had this happen with a very nice 1900 era straw boater, I set it to dry on
a gallon paint can and when it was dry it looked like a cheap party hat,a
round hat trying to sit on my oval head.
If I had to do it over again, I would don a plastic shower cap and wear the
darn hat til it dried.Those wig head stands usually have a very small
circumference,too
melody


--- On Mon, 4/6/09, stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
wrote:


From: stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 5:38 PM


The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits 
were out of the way.

The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is
not 
unheard of but the dome is the most common).

So:

Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one,
pin 
it up and cut the brim;

Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to
high 
heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you
want 
and leave it to dry;

As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to 
leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size;

Add decoration and edging when dry,

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not! ..maybe...

2009-04-07 Thread Ron Carnegie
They certainly were worn in the late 18th century.  I am not certain that it
was ever true that they were only carried, but if it is it had to have been
earlier.  Usually that story goes along with the huge tall hats of the early
period.  Wigs decline in favour through the period


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 9:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!
..maybe...

Weren't the majority of the hats for the era, merely carried under the arm
or in the hand,as a sort of fashion accessory? So if not actually worn,it
wouldn't matter on the shape of the headpiece.
Perhaps they had Dresshats,with the rounded crown and everyday/working
mans hats,shaped for a head, that were worn, the Accessory hats,not
actually being worn and subject to sweat,weather and wear and tear will have
survived.The actual everyday worn on your head hat will have worn out and
been discarded eventually.
just a muse.
melody
 
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net wrote:


From: Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 5:32 AM


Of course the originals have seen are round and not oval.  The leaves
(flaps) are held up in period by a stitched tacks, hook and eyes, or tapes,
usually two for each leave.  The arrangement of the leaves depends upon
style.  They are properly referred to as cocked hats, tricorn being a modern
term for them.


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!

You know what the worse part of using a ball or bowl,is the shap is indeed
round.
Most peoples heads are actually oval, so if you set it to dry on a ball the
fit is off and really hard to keep on your head.
I had this happen with a very nice 1900 era straw boater, I set it to dry on
a gallon paint can and when it was dry it looked like a cheap party hat,a
round hat trying to sit on my oval head.
If I had to do it over again, I would don a plastic shower cap and wear the
darn hat til it dried.Those wig head stands usually have a very small
circumference,too
melody


--- On Mon, 4/6/09, stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
wrote:


From: stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 5:38 PM


The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits 
were out of the way.

The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is
not 
unheard of but the dome is the most common).

So:

Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one,
pin 
it up and cut the brim;

Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to
high 
heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you
want 
and leave it to dry;

As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to 
leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size;

Add decoration and edging when dry,

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not! ..maybe...

2009-04-07 Thread Ron Carnegie
I meant huge tall wigs


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 10:12 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!
..maybe...

They certainly were worn in the late 18th century.  I am not certain that it
was ever true that they were only carried, but if it is it had to have been
earlier.  Usually that story goes along with the huge tall hats of the early
period.  Wigs decline in favour through the period


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 9:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!
..maybe...

Weren't the majority of the hats for the era, merely carried under the arm
or in the hand,as a sort of fashion accessory? So if not actually worn,it
wouldn't matter on the shape of the headpiece.
Perhaps they had Dresshats,with the rounded crown and everyday/working
mans hats,shaped for a head, that were worn, the Accessory hats,not
actually being worn and subject to sweat,weather and wear and tear will have
survived.The actual everyday worn on your head hat will have worn out and
been discarded eventually.
just a muse.
melody
 
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net wrote:


From: Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 5:32 AM


Of course the originals have seen are round and not oval.  The leaves
(flaps) are held up in period by a stitched tacks, hook and eyes, or tapes,
usually two for each leave.  The arrangement of the leaves depends upon
style.  They are properly referred to as cocked hats, tricorn being a modern
term for them.


I'm your huckleberry

Ron Carnegie
r.carne...@verizon.net 



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads ...not!

You know what the worse part of using a ball or bowl,is the shap is indeed
round.
Most peoples heads are actually oval, so if you set it to dry on a ball the
fit is off and really hard to keep on your head.
I had this happen with a very nice 1900 era straw boater, I set it to dry on
a gallon paint can and when it was dry it looked like a cheap party hat,a
round hat trying to sit on my oval head.
If I had to do it over again, I would don a plastic shower cap and wear the
darn hat til it dried.Those wig head stands usually have a very small
circumference,too
melody


--- On Mon, 4/6/09, stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
wrote:


From: stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 5:38 PM


The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits 
were out of the way.

The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is
not 
unheard of but the dome is the most common).

So:

Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one,
pin 
it up and cut the brim;

Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to
high 
heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you
want 
and leave it to dry;

As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to 
leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size;

Add decoration and edging when dry,

-C.



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Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not! ..maybe...

2009-04-07 Thread stilskin
 Weren't the majority of the hats for the era, merely carried under the arm
 or in the hand,as a sort of fashion accessory? So if not actually worn,it


Of course they were worn. I have seen the comic book version of Robert Newton 
in Treasure Island and he is wearing one so it must be true,

-C.



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