Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

2015-12-17 Thread Wicked Frau
>
> I am still here.  I have been waiting for a long term house guest to move
> out (it is happening this weekend!) so I can un-clutter my beautiful sewing
> room and get back at it!  I have been sewing in little spurts but the
> projects have been mostly modern, albeit with wool and linen!
>

Sg



> >>
> >> http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html
> >>
> >>
> > Thanks for the URL, Ann!
> >
> > My attempt to respond to the "is the list still going" post also drew a
> > rejection message.  Hopefully this will get through.
> >
> > --
> > Catherine Olanich Raymond
> > ca...@thyrsus.com
> > (610) 805-9542
> >
> > "Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn."
> > Benjamin Franklin
> >
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?

2015-08-29 Thread Wicked Frau
That is the official facebook page for this list?  I never knew there was
one.

On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 12:35 PM, Cin  wrote:

> Yes, https://www.facebook.com/groups/gbacg/ and each Guild event often has
> it's own FB event announcement.
>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
>
> On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Carol Kocian 
> wrote:
>
> > Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? Someone was just asking for
> an
> > all-era sewing group, not just for patterns, not just for challenges,
> but a
> > place to discuss and ask questions.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > -Carol
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Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth Bull wedding dress

2015-08-09 Thread Wicked Frau
That would be great!  Thank you!


On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 7:41 AM, Katy Bishop  wrote:

> I have detailed pictures of this dress--from it's unveiling party--I can
> post them when I have the chance.  It is amazing embroidery
>
>

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[h-cost] Elizabeth Bull wedding dress

2015-08-07 Thread Wicked Frau
Someone just shared this with me on Facebookbeautiful!

http://bostoniansociety.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-look-at-elizabeth-bull-wedding-dress.html?m=1

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Re: [h-cost] storing needles

2015-02-06 Thread Wicked Frau
Someone gave me a little pin/needle case made of cloth with wool felt as a
lining.  Its great to carry around.  Also, I have a tomato style pin
cushion for both used machine needles and one for regular needles.  You can
mark the sections of the tomato with sizes or uses and stick the
appropriate needle in each section.  I also have some tins with flat
adhesive magnets on the bottom that I use for weird sizes like gihugic doll
needles.

Those are my methodshope one or two of them work for you!

Sg

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 4:50 PM, Charlene C  wrote:

> I'm organizing the craft/sewing room and I'm curious: how do people store
> all their various needles?
>
> For my purposes, I'm excluding knitting and crochet needles (those I have
> under control). I'm trying to better organize my various sewing needles:
> tapestry, crewel, yarn, sewing machine, hand sewing, beading, etc. I've
> been keeping the tapestry needles in little wooden needle cases separated
> by size; the hand sewing needles are mostly attached to the paper they came
> on when I bought them; the machine needles ae mostly in the plastic cases
> they came in. But then I've got the odds and ends that are attached to bits
> of paper or fabric or in pill bottles or the like. Quite the jumble.
>
> Charlene
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?

2015-01-14 Thread Wicked Frau
My 2 ¢
I help run our local SCA Equestrian group here in Arizona.  We to have had
to deal with a younger generation who prefers the FB, Twitter route.   Its
fine for sending out reminders and notifications but finding past
discussions is next to impossible.   So for historical purposes we use
Yahoo.  Its easy to post to a FB group and Yahoo simultaneously via email.
Both Yahoo and FB allow posting of files, and photos.

It has been said before on this list that many people are specializing in a
period and/or place and there are plenty of lists for those.  Even if they
aren't active it is easy to refer people to previous discussions.

Saragrace





On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 4:39 PM, Sharon Collier 
wrote:

> Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
> Is the list especially quiet?
>
> Sharon Collier
>
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[h-cost] The Progressive Tailor - something fun from the early 1900s.

2014-10-19 Thread Wicked Frau
I was looking up something on the web and this popped up in Google Books.
"The Progressive Tailor"http://tinyurl.com/ProgTailor

Thought someone here would enjoy it.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] JP Ryan Pet-en-l'air/Francaise pattern

2014-05-28 Thread Wicked Frau
On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
wrote:

> P Ryan Pet-en-l'air/Francaise pattern


Hi Aylwen, I have not used this pattern.  I was wondering if you had tried
to contact the author/sellar?

*The Recollections of J. P. Ryan*
*PO Box 1016*
*Randallstown, MD 21133 *
*E-mail: recollect...@earthlink.net *
© Janice Pence Ryan, 2000. All Rights Reserved.


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[h-cost] Anyone know what manuscript this is?

2014-05-27 Thread Wicked Frau
There is a black and white illustration on  page
142*
of Medieval Costume in England and France by Mary G. Houston. *It is
supposed to have come from a manuscript in the British Museum.  The number
is D. IX.  Does anyone know if this is enough information to identify the
manuscript?  My searches are not getting anywhere.

Thanks,

Saragrace
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Re: [h-cost] Can someone remind me what painting this is?

2014-05-19 Thread Wicked Frau
Ur the bomb!

Thanks,

Sg
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[h-cost] Can someone remind me what painting this is?

2014-05-19 Thread Wicked Frau
Poor old brain can't remember where this is from.
http://www.oocities.org/i2amsocial/2-55_1__1_.jpg

Thanks
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[h-cost] 100% cotton "velvet"

2014-05-11 Thread Wicked Frau
http://goo.gl/0jEoEO

I have purchased a swatch set for this cotton "velvet". The colors are
fabulous (31 different colors), and it is a nice tight weave, and is
machine washable. That being said it is closer to a brushed twill than an
actual velvet.

It would make great men's or women's clothing.

Thought I would share the source!

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Chemise/Shift question

2014-05-09 Thread Wicked Frau
This what the Tudor Tailor (TT) has to say about shirts/smocks finishing:
 "The fact that shirts and smocks were intended to survive regular washing
is evident in the construction of extant examples.  The stitches are very
regular and tiny, often so small as to be invisible to the naked eye.  The
strength of the selvedges was exploited in the long seams down the sides
which were butted together.  Seams made along a cut edge have the raw part
carefully folded under and enclosed with another row of stitching."

A number of years ago I picked up a man's shirt at a yard sale in Germany.
 I took it to the Dennita Sewell, the fashion curator at the Phoenix Art
Museum with the idea of donating it to the museum (they were very happy to
add it to their collection).  She said it was probably 19th century, but
certainly constructed just like they had been in the 16th and 17th
centuries.  As stated in the TT the long side seams are butted with an
overcast on the inside.  The cut portions are sewn and then folded over.
 The folded over seams are hardly bigger than an 1/8 ".  There is a lot of
entredeux work on the cuffs, and drawn work on the neck opening.

The straight top stitching is so tiny and perfect that it is really hard to
imagine it was not done by machine, but as the rest of it is clearly hand
sewn, I think it is as well.

I have yet to actually turn this garment over to the Museum.  I intend to
photograph it carefully and post pictures before I do give it to them.  I
will post pictures as soon as I have done this.

Saragrace




On Fri, May 9, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

> I think Arnold covered this in Patterns of Fashion, but I could be wrong.
>  I'm at work and all my costume books are packed up anyway.  My guess is a
> small rolled hem on any cut edge.  The openwork stitching that attached one
> piece of cloth to another needs something to anchor it that won't fray
> apart under strain.  It is my understanding that the garments were often
> taken apart for washing and sunbleaching.  Thus each piece would need to be
> finished.
>
> Ginni
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Liz H.
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2014 9:55 AM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Chemise/Shift question
>
> I'm sure sometime has answered this sometime over the years, but I can't
> seen to find it...
>
> In the 1480-1600 period of time, does anyone know how the edges of the
> cloth, or seams of under-tunics/shifts/shirts/chemises would have been
> finished?  I figure that as they would have been the most often washed
> garment, something would have been done to help prevent the edges of the
> cloth from unraveling...but I haven't been able to figure out what, during
> that period of time.
>
> (Me, I either zigzag or whip-stitch the edges usually...but I'm wondering
> what would have been done *then*)
>
> Thanks!
> -Elisabeth/Liz
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> confidential and/or legally privileged information. It is solely for the
> use of the intended recipient(s). Unauthorized interception, review, use or
> disclosure is prohibited and may violate applicable laws including the
> Electronic Communications Privacy Act. If you are not the intended
> recipient, please contact the sender and destroy all copies of the
> communication.
>
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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

2014-05-08 Thread Wicked Frau
Here too!  https://www.judithm.com/


On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 6:04 PM, Aurora Celeste wrote:

> I've had good luck with Hats by Leko:  http://www.hatsupply.com
>
>
> On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser 
> wrote:
>
> > I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.
> >
> > Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada….
> > slower and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum
> > order of $76— their “low” price. Right.
> >
> > I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find
> a
> > presence on the web??
> >
> > I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.
> >
> > Thanks, List!
> >
> > ==Marjorie
> >
> >
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Re: [h-cost] 15th Century pleated gown

2014-05-08 Thread Wicked Frau
I haven't made it, but from looking at it, I think it presumes you have
made the doublet first, and are altering the pattern to create the gown.
The slashing is on the pattern, not the cloth.

I can see where it would be confusing.

Sg


On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
wrote:

> Has anyone here made the 15th century pleated gown using the pattern on
> page 154 of The Medieval Tailor's Assistant? I'm confused about the slash
> lines - why does it need cutting and what do you do once its been cut?
> Many thanks,
> Aylwen
>
>
> *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
>
> *Jane Austen Festival Australia  *
> *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
> *
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[h-cost] Fwd: 1/2 scale design challenge, any period, "Fashion Icons through the Ages"

2014-04-29 Thread Wicked Frau
Great opportunity for us Historical types to show off what we can do!

I saw this in my Threads Magazine.  It looks like a lot of fun!   Very good
deal too.

"Participants purchase the competition kit ($99), which includes a
professional half-scale dress form and access to four high-definition
online video lessons presented by Joi. The lessons are 20- to
35-minute-long tutorials on the design process, fashion sketching, draping,
and submitting challenge entries. A downloadable croquis and complete
half-scale sloper set are provided. Videos are available for viewing at any
time after receiving the access code. The entry fee covers the cost of the
half-scale form and its shipping."

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/36531/half-scale-design-competition-for-ase-2014

NOTE:  The link to the contest entry form from the threads page does not
work,  Use this one or click on the "contest" button on the menu.

http://www.americansewingexpo.com/Contests.html
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Re: [h-cost] anybody know "curti"? Venetian slang for mid-range social climbers????

2014-04-08 Thread Wicked Frau
Maybe you could just contact the author?
http://www.mercedeslackey.com/index.html   :)

Sg


On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 9:58 PM, Wanda Pease  wrote:

> The book uses it to distinguish "Short Timer" or "New rich" from the
> families who have been leading Venetian families for generations.  Kat is
> from one of the oldest families in Venice ang therefore her family is one
> of the. " Casa Longi". The only older family left is Marco's Valdosta clan
> whose first ancestor started Venice when the area was just swamp.
>
> Wanda
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 7, 2014, at 7:23 PM, Charlene C  wrote:
>
> > As you've probably already discovered, searching is difficult because
> > both "curti" and the singular "curto" are popular surnames. Do these
> > authors usually use historic terms or do they invent terms? Some
> > tidbits I found:
> >
> > Curti is a city in Italy
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curti,_Campania
> >
> > Florio (1611):
> > curti - pens or or folds for sheepe
> > curto - see corto
> > corto - short, briefe, succinct, either in body, quantity or time
> >
> > http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio/149small.html
> > http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio/142small.html
> >
> >
> > --Charlene
> >
> > On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 4:15 PM, Patricia Dunham 
> wrote:
> >> reading Shadow of the Lion, set in 1530-ish Venice... this term sounds
> kind of clothing-related but also indicates social status? like,
> nouveau-riche?? I HAVE just spent a while googling for a definition, but no
> luck.
> >>
> >> The specific line that has inspired me to try to get specific here is :
> "Curti like the Brunelli would never settle for lesser curti." (The
> Brunelli are a powerful family, but still "curti", NOT "casa vecchie";
> would not "marry down" to a lesser curti house.)
> >>
> >> Thanks!!
> >> chimene
> >> ___
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> >
>
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Re: [h-cost] looking for Kathleen Mitchell

2014-03-02 Thread Wicked Frau
I'd be interested too!

Sg


On Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Hi,
> I've been sharing some of my doll costumes with Penny Ladnier and she
> suggested I get in touch with Kathleen Mitchell, who's on this list, to
> talk about tiny historical fashions. Kathleen, if you see this, will you
> contact me off-list? Thanks!
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.wal...@comcast.net
>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians

2013-10-24 Thread Wicked Frau
Unboned corsets work fabulously.  I use them for riding.  Also, you might
want to look into this:
http://www.amazondrygoods.com/products/la-mode-bagatelle-victorian-artistic-reform-tea-gowns.html
Apparently there was a movement during this time to wear unrestricted
clothing.  As I recall, the pattern information itself states that these
were designed not as absolutely historically accurate.  I will look at mine
later today and refresh my memory.  They are such beautiful "dresses"

Sg  (on the other side of Phoenix, Buckwheat)


On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 7:17 PM, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. <
manordto...@stthomas.edu> wrote:

> After a couple of surgeries I now wear a compression camisole most of the
> time, except to exercise. They really are comfortable if done right.
>
> 
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf
> of Cactus [shirleyjho...@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 4:11 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
>
> I'm thinking maybe not tie the corsets so snugly.  They are actually very
> comfortable to wear.  Or look into corded stays rather than boned stays.
>
>
> Cactus
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
>
> From: Kathleen Norvell 
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
>
>
>
> Aylwen,
> For Victorian, maybe the musicians could adopt "Aesthetic" dress, which
> requires no corsets.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Kathleen
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 12:57 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
>
>
> I'm thinking about Victorian fashion here. Are there any pictures of women
> itting down playing music? I've seen women corsetted when standing up
> laying the violin, but how did they manage playing the piano? Or are my
> usicians complaining too much?
> 'm right at the beginning in my research so far.
> any thanks,
> ylwen
>
> n 21 October 2013 15:48, Elizabeth Jones  >wrote:
> > Hi Aylwen,
> What have you tried so far? If we know what's already been tried there
> won't need to be any re-inventing of the wheel. For anything pre-1600
> you are fairly safe to skip boning for anyone who isn't extremely high
> fashion (and musicians paid to perform for a ball definitely weren't
> high fashion)
> Elizabeth
>
> On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
>  wrote:
> > Dear Friends
> > Our dance group prides itself on wearing historically correct gowns and
> > undergarments for our dance performances, but it is not comfortable for
> our
> > pianist and other musicians. I am exploring ways I can bone the bodices
> of
> > the gowns and still give sitting-down musicians breathing space - but
> still
> > have the garments look close-to-accurate. Can anyone offer me any advice?
> > We costume from 1450 through to 1900 - all styles along the way.
> > Many thanks,
> > Aylwen
> >
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>
> --
> Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
>
>
>
>
> *Jane Austen Festival Australia  *
> Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy >
>
> John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book
> eries
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] OT hairdressing, Dineh

2013-07-27 Thread Wicked Frau
Very cool pics.  Those are the ones!  Thank you for sharing!

Sg

On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 3:13 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

> oh goody/duh of me, 8-)...  I think I was thinking of th 12thC garb
> list!!! but you're right, for HERE, this is as appropriate as anything!
> thanks for reminding me, 8-)
>
> ah, OK, the Navajo is called chongo, the Hopi is called squash-blossom, or
> butterfly whorls (looks like Princess Leia's cinnabons but farther up the
> head & free-standing away from the head
>
> apparently very difficult to find how-to for the squash-blossom, beyond
> one note that a wooden form is used to create the buns, then it's removed!
> found one comment about the wooden form possibly being "horse-shoe shaped",
> and found a LOT of dead links. the following aren't much, but... the
> ritajean link does have ONE photo of the hairdo half-way through
> production, FWIW
>
> http://obliseniy.net/blossom-hair-hopi-squash/
> http://ritajeanmoran.blogspot.com/2011/11/hopi-spiralsquash-blossom.html
> http://www.native-languages.org/hair.htm
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] OT hairdressing, Dineh

2013-07-25 Thread Wicked Frau
Hey Patriciaas far as I know there is no time frame or country of
origin limitation on this list.  I LOVED to hear about this.  I have
wondered about it as well.  The other one I'd like to know how to do is the
(I think it is Hopi) hair dress that kinda looks oriental too.  Lemme see
if  I can find pics.

Sg

On Wed, Jul 24, 2013 at 8:01 AM, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:

> Chimene,
>
> Great shots, and they explain a lot! I always wondered how they did that
> :)  But you made me hungry for fry bread (in the later pics). . . I can't
> speak for Viking times, but sure enjoyed the pics.
>
>  == Marjorie Wilser
>
> =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
>http://3toad.blogspot.com/
> "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
>
>
>
> On Jul 24, 2013, at 1:35 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:
>
>  This is very OT for 12thC, but I've always wondered how it was done...
>> Navajo women's traditional "double-bun" hair-dress.  I think I'm going to
>> ponder for a while if a similar technique might be of assistance in
>> achieving the Viking women's ritual knot hair-dress, which, admittedly, is
>> also OP for this list !?  In any case, it is a marvelous demonstration of
>> how to create and hold a fairly complex hair construction using non-modern
>> tools.
>>
>> anyway, a Native lady on another of my lists just posted about a zillion
>> photos from a recent large family reunion, among them a very step-by-step
>> demonstration.
>>
>> Now, there are several clusters of hairdress photos scattered among pics
>> of other activities, starting about halfway down this page, look for the
>> little girl in the pink and yellow top, with white yarn holding her hair
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/**neeta_lind/sets/**72157634727656803/page2/
>>
>>
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Re: [h-cost] where to buy lucet?

2013-06-17 Thread Wicked Frau
Boy, I sure don't see the kind I like...
http://www.spanishpeacock.com/lucets.htm

I like mine with straight shafts and a handledo you have a preference
to the sort you like?

Sg

On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 5:19 PM, Rebecca  wrote:

> Where do people purchase their lucets (preferably online)? I'd like to buy
> a
> few, but am coming up stumped on where I've seen them for sale! Thanks :)
>
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agnyss Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Reproductions of renaissance fabrics

2013-05-01 Thread Wicked Frau
I am a little confused.  When you click on the photos of the fabrics it
takes you to a series of differnt pictures...

Are there any enlarged views of each fabrics and their proposed content?

Thanks,

Sg

On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 6:27 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Hello,
>
> We are currently thinking about weaving several reproductions of extant
> renaissance (15th and 16th century) fabrics. We need help to decide which
> designs to choose - please have a look and vote for the ones you like on
> our FB page:
>
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151446156188721&set=a.464128083720.242635.294387883720&type=1&relevant_count=1
>
> Thanks for help!
>
> Zuzana
>
> ___
> Sartor...custom-made costumes
> www.sartor.cz
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book

2013-02-03 Thread Wicked Frau
Drat - I missed it...what exhibit?

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey <
mary.d...@pierocarey.info> wrote:

> me! Me!
> put me on the list, too!
>
> Mary Piero Carey
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Re: [h-cost] Schabraques

2013-01-20 Thread Wicked Frau
I'd love to see what you are talking aboutgot any links?
Threads just had an article on trim  something that sounds like what you
are talking about...

On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 9:29 PM, lynlee o  wrote:

> I am making a number of 15th Hussars Shabraques to replace club ones lost
> in a bush fire. The lost ones used felt to give the sharks tooth trim but I
> found an image of an extant one and it has much smaller teeth and I was
> wondering if folded ribbon would be the way to go. Should I stich it all
> down or leave the tips free?Bahriah
>
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 12, Issue 6

2013-01-13 Thread Wicked Frau
Good puzzle.  My thoughts: First off I am not sure we can trust the artist
to be able to represent what was really 'going on'.   A way to construct
the garment to make it look like the picture is to construct it so The
front opening is offset (on his left side). It needn't be functional (the
garment could be pulled over the head)  the front opening could be open to
a point above the breast, but below the shoulder.   The sleeves seams are
completely sewn up.  His arm is coming out the armscye...the sleeve is only
sewn to the garment at the cap.

Let me know what you think!

Sg


On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 7:09 PM, Claire Clarke  wrote:

>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:54:18 -0600 (CST)
> From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
>
> So I have this friend who said "if you make it for me I will wear it" and I
> want to make this outer garment:
>
> http://diglit.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0141?sid=8d563ad12e918dcb1c
> d18fb352e23e86
>
> I am having a disagreement with my other half about how to interpret it,
> though. It's the only one in the manuscript, I just doublechecked, so
> nothing to compare it with. Anyway and anyhow, what *I* read is that it has
> sleeves attached at the shoulder but then the body is slit up all the way
> to
> the armpit on the sides, or at least the left side. Then the sleeve seam is
> on the bottom, and this seam is also slit to allow the arm to come out. And
> it has buttons up the front.
>
> Thoughts, anyone?
>
> Jen
>
> 
> This kind of surcoat is called a garde-corps. It was very common wear in
> the
> 13th century for professional men, and was also sometimes worn by clerics
> and later by women. You can still occasionally see it worn right through to
> the fifteenth century. The sleeves are wide and gathered into the sleeve
> head, and there is usually a slit down the front (or the sleeve seam is
> rotated and left open) so the arms can come out (the sleeves themselves are
> usually longer than the actual arm). A buttoned slit at the neck is also
> common, although the surcoat is not usually split all the way down and the
> slit up the front - presumably to make it easier for this guy to ride - is
> actually relatively unusual.
>
> I made one of these a while ago for wearing over thirteenth and fourteenth
> century clothes and it's really comfortable and warm - and really good if
> you want to be doing stuff with your hands. There's a pattern in "Mediaeval
> Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th and 15th centuries" by Mary
> Houston, but it's not hard to figure out without one.
>
> Claire
>
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Re: [h-cost] silly question

2012-12-18 Thread Wicked Frau
Not silly at all!

http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Sincerely,

The Frau...  :) aka Saragrace

On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 2:56 AM, lynlee o  wrote:

>
> Can someone tell me if there is a website etc where I can search old
> topics?? I found out about this group by reading someone referring to it
> and emailing the listed address.I have been saving all the emails for
> future reference, but it does run to quite a few over a year. :)
> Claricia
>
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Re: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods

2012-11-20 Thread Wicked Frau
OMG!  So are they still just brick and mortar?

Sg

On Mon, Nov 19, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <
costu...@radiks.net> wrote:

> They're bck!
>
>
>  From: Carole Parker 
>> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:24:40 -0800
>> Subject: Amazon Drygoods
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> >
>> > On Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 8:16 AM, Persephone <> inbox%40vintagewaltz.**com >
>> in...@vintagewaltz.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hello Costumers!
>> >> Do you remember Amazon Drygoods, that cute little paper catalog
>> >> full of
>> >> nifty books, shoes, hats... well everything... A year or two ago
>> >> they went
>> >> out of business and we said boo-hoo. Well I just learned last week,
>> >> that
>> >> they are back in business. How did I miss that one? In case some of
>> >> you
>> >> had not heard I wanted to pass it on. Here are the new owners
>> >> 
>> >http://www.**amazondrygoods.com/about-us/
>>
>
> International Costumers' Guild Archivist
>
> http://www.costume.org/**gallery2/main.php
>
> "Those Who Fail to Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
> Why They Are Simply Doomed."
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
> -- C. Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda __**_
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[h-cost] Fwd: [GermanRenCostume] Museum of London Tudor knitted caps available online

2012-06-18 Thread Wicked Frau
Forwarding on

-- Forwarded message --
From: Brad Moore 
Date: Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 10:54 AM
Subject: [GermanRenCostume] Museum of London Tudor knitted caps available
online
To: "historick...@yahoogroups.com" , "
elizabethan-g...@yahoogroups.com" , "
germanrencost...@yahoogroups.com" 




I apologize for the cross-posting, but this came across another group I am
on, and thought it might be of interest here.

Yours,

Brad Moore

"If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would
be a merrier world."
- J.R.R. Tolkien



Dear
all,

I’m
pleased to announce that the knitted 16th century cap collection of
the Museum of
London is now online. The
73 caps, coifs, cap fragments, linings and earpieces have been newly
photographed, with captions containing contextual and technical
information. All
the pieces will have their full captions in the next two weeks.

The
caps and their parts are of a large group of material excavated from sites
around London by
workmen in the early 20th century. They represent an insight into
everyday urban clothing and a high level of technical skill in their
knitted,
fulled and napped construction. Caps of this style are in collections
across
Europe and North America and are the focus of a
lot of research interest, so we are pleased to make a large group available
to
the wider research community.

To
browse the caps, please go to the Collections
Online site and enter ‘cap’ in the Keyword field with the date range
1500-1600 in the search fields.

Many
thanks to all the researchers who have contributed to this project,
especially
Jane Malcolm-Davies of The Tudor Tailor.

Do
please pass this on to anyone who may be interested, and feel free to
contact me
if you have any questions.

With
best wishes,

Hilary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [h-cost] (no subject)

2012-06-09 Thread Wicked Frau
Gak - someone has been hacked

On Sat, Jun 9, 2012 at 6:26 AM, Valerie Robertson wrote:

>
> http://exgfhunters.com/wp-content/themes/grey-matter/bkrlgf.html?ync=ffkjff.jck&jk=nkbb.kk&nij=cddp
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Re: [h-cost] Source for silk noil

2012-05-25 Thread Wicked Frau
I have their sample chart...got any idea what color you want?
Sg

On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 8:38 PM, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:

> Nice to see good prices, but with their fanciful color names (with no
> color chart or photos), it's a little hard to deal with. Any notion about
> their website?
>
> ==Marjorie Wilser
>
>  @..@   @..@   @..@
> Three Toad Press
> http://3toad.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 25, 2012, at 5:57 PM, Wicked Frau wrote:
>
>  Also, Supersilk
>> http://www.supersilk.com/item.**asp?subcatname=Raw%20Silk%**
>> 20Noil&catid=56&subcatid=125&**subcatid1=139<http://www.supersilk.com/item.asp?subcatname=Raw%20Silk%20Noil&catid=56&subcatid=125&subcatid1=139>
>> They are in the process of going out of business and they have some good
>> deals  going.
>>
>> Sg
>>
>> On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Beteena Paradise <
>> bete...@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:
>>
>>  http://www.thaisilks.com/ has a great selection and are very good about
>>> sending swatches and such. I used to buy from them a few years ago and
>>> the
>>> quality was excellent.
>>>
>>> Teena
>>>
>>>
>>> __**__
>>> From: Lavolta Press 
>>> To: Historical Costume 
>>> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2012 8:17 PM
>>> Subject: [h-cost] Source for silk noil
>>>
>>> I don't want it for costuming, but for regular clothes.  But who is
>>> selling a large color selection online these days?
>>>
>>> Fran
>>> Lavolta Press
>>> Books of historic clothing patterns
>>> www.lavoltapress.com
>>> __**_
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>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
>>> __**_
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>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> -Sg-
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>>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Source for silk noil

2012-05-25 Thread Wicked Frau
Also, Supersilk
http://www.supersilk.com/item.asp?subcatname=Raw%20Silk%20Noil&catid=56&subcatid=125&subcatid1=139
 They are in the process of going out of business and they have some good
deals  going.

Sg

On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Beteena Paradise <
bete...@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:

> http://www.thaisilks.com/ has a great selection and are very good about
> sending swatches and such. I used to buy from them a few years ago and the
> quality was excellent.
>
> Teena
>
>
> 
> From: Lavolta Press 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2012 8:17 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Source for silk noil
>
> I don't want it for costuming, but for regular clothes.  But who is
> selling a large color selection online these days?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> Books of historic clothing patterns
> www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] Dressmakers dummy

2012-05-20 Thread Wicked Frau
The last issue of Threads had a tutorial on how to make a sloper for a body
(and then use it) by  padding up a smaller dress dummy for a perfect fit!!
Pretty awesome for folks who sew for a variety of body shapes.

Sg

On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 7:26 AM, Beteena Paradise <
bete...@mostlymedieval.com> wrote:

> 1. One that can actually be shaped like you. Many of us can never be
> matched with the "hard" dial type ones.
> 2. One that you can push pins into
>
> My recommendation is for the Uniquely You dress form. It is made of hard
> foam and you fit the fabric cover to your body (they include instructions
> for this). Then you put the cover on the form and it squishes into place to
> be shaped by you. The fitting of the cover can be a bit of a pain, but well
> worth it in the end.
>
> Teena
>
>
> 
> From: Rachel Stimson 
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 6:15 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Dressmakers dummy
>
> Does anyone have any advice on what to look out for when purchasing a dress
> makers dummy.  My mother has offered to buy me one in exchange for remaking
> a jacket for my sisters wedding. I am in the UK.
>
> Thanks
> Rachel
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

2012-05-18 Thread Wicked Frau
Well to be truthful, my dummy isn't wearing it, but I am making a chiton!

Sg

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Claire Clarke  wrote:

> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 14:25:48 -0700
> From: Cin 
> To: H-costume 
> Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
> Message-ID:
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions

2012-05-17 Thread Wicked Frau
A doll maker friend of mine showed me how to make a 'quilter's knot'.  I
have been using it for years now for 'normal' sewing and have never had a
problem with tying a knot.  To ensure a smaller knot, I just make fewer
wraps around my needlehope this helps!

Sg

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 8:43 AM,  wrote:

>
> I stopped using the cotton wrapped polyester years ago, as my then-new
> Bernina didn't like it. (It went through the top okay, but always seemed to
> gum up the bobbin.) At that time, I switched to the long-staple
> European-made threads made by Guttermann and Mettler. I've always found
> them satisfactory--the only caveat is, I find it harder to tie a twist knot
> in the end--I attribute that to the fact that they are intrinsically
> anti-twist and snag.
>
>
> I know some people tend to look down their noses at these threads, but I
> have been using them for years now and am very pleased. The color selection
> is good, although once in a while, I come up short.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions

2012-05-17 Thread Wicked Frau
I am finding the quality of C&C 100% poly to be superior to Gutterman and
the other Melnicke (sp?)  It seems much smoother to me.  And now that they
have gone to the European style bobbin I like them even more!
Sg

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 8:11 AM, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:

> My favorite thread has been discontinued without so much as a peep. I am
> preternaturally p.o'd at the venerable Coats & Clark, but now I need to
> switch threads.
>
> My old favorite was the sometimes deingrated Coats & Clark cotton-wrapped
> polyester. It had the shine of cotton and the strength of polyester. Coats
> is now producing it under the same name but it's all polyester.
>
> Ideas? I know some folks out there are thread snobs, but I just want
> something that's (a) available!! and (b) will hold up. A little (c)
> affordability and (d) good color range wouldn't hurt either. A basic,
> workhorse thread!!
>
> Second question: how do you match thread to fabric if you can't actually
> *compare* them in a store?
>
> ==Marjorie Wilser
>
>  @..@   @..@   @..@
> Three Toad Press
> http://3toad.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Ghent Alterpiece

2012-03-13 Thread Wicked Frau
Now if they will only do the same for the Arnolfini Wedding!  I LOVE THIS!
Thanks for sharing.  I get Explorator too, but didn't read it this time

Sg

On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 11:44 AM, Lynn Downward wrote:

> Sorry about the poor link.That's all that was offered in the article. But
> isn't it GORGEOUS!?!
> Lynn
>
> On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 7:50 PM, Marjorie Wilser 
> wrote:
>
> > Thanks! That was a complete, working link :)
> >
>
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Re: [h-cost] Online Research Library

2012-02-27 Thread Wicked Frau
Looks like lots of cool stufff!

On Mon, Feb 27, 2012 at 6:27 PM, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:

> Ann,
>
> They are well-known for genealogy sources, but sure, lots of fun
> historical stuff. Fabulous resources.
>
> ==Marjorie Wilser
>
>  @..@   @..@   @..@
> Three Toad Press
> http://3toad.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> On Feb 27, 2012, at 4:02 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
>
>  I just discovered the Godfrey Memorial Library. It is in Connecticut, but
>> it has a wonderful collection of on-line databases. Basic membership is $45
>> a year, which looks like it will get me everything I need, including early
>> American newspapers and the database of British and Irish Women's Letters &
>> Diaries. Both are searchable, too.  www.godfrey.org
>>
>> I'm doing a happy dance!
>>
>> Ann Wass
>>
>
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Re: [h-cost] starch recipe

2012-02-14 Thread Wicked Frau
On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 7:30 AM, Wicked Frau  wrote:

> Sta Flo is also available online.  As I was searching for it, I found this
> recipe.
> http://www.pinkyhasabrain.com/homemade-cleaning-recipes/homemade-liquid-starch-recipe/
>
> I especially like that it adds fragrance.
>
> Sg
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 7:23 AM,  wrote:
>
>>
>> I was wondering if someone carried it mail order--that looks like the
>> stuff! Argo powdered starch.
>>
>> Ann Wass
>>
>>
>>
>>


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Re: [h-cost] starch recipe

2012-02-14 Thread Wicked Frau
Sta Flo is also available online.  As I was searching for it, I found this
recipe.
http://www.pinkyhasabrain.com/homemade-cleaning-recipes/homemade-liquid-starch-recipe/

I especially like that it adds fragrance.

Sg

On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 7:23 AM,  wrote:

>
> I was wondering if someone carried it mail order--that looks like the
> stuff! Argo powdered starch.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Buttonhole attachments; was beginner sewing machine

2012-02-08 Thread Wicked Frau
Yes they do!  I just got one for my 1957 Kenmore.  They work just fine (I
just picked my machine up from its annual tuneup and purchased the foot
from the Sew and Vac place.)  You can probably find them cheaper online.  I
am still figuring it out, but I know it works cause the sewing machine guy
made a few to test it for me.

On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 10:17 AM, Kathryn Pinner  wrote:

> Would those old buttonhole attachments work on modern machines? If so, I'm
> going to try to find mine.
>
>
> Kate Pinner
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Lynn Downward
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 12:09 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
>
> Yes it did, and I couldn't figure out (then) why anyone would need a round
> buttonhole. Now I can think of several uses for it.
> Lynn
>
> On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 7:45 AM, Rickard, Patty  >wrote:
>
> > Was that the one that would actually do round buttonhole?
> > Patty
> >
> > since I moved from my mom's early 1950s Singer with the nifty
> > buttonhole foot accessory. That was a wonder!
> > Lynn
> >
> >
> >  ___
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Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute

2012-02-08 Thread Wicked Frau
Cotton Coutil dyes readily and you can also just use it as the interlining
if you want something else on the outside (like printed yellow cloth).

Sg

On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Emily Gilbert wrote:

> Thanks for your input, everyone!  It sounds like I'd be best off using
> coutil or something similar, Saundra's recommendation notwithstanding.
>
> Emily
>
>
> On 2/6/2012 7:00 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:
>
>> According to Montgomery, "Textiles in America", Nankeen is "a cotton
>> cloth of plain weave originally sold at Nankin in China and made from a
>> yellow variety of cotton..." "At least by the mid-eighteenth century, in
>> the Manchester area it was made of ordinary cotton dyed yellow. Swatch
>> number 62 in Holker's manuscript is nankeen suitable for men's waistcoats
>> and trousers which he says wears very well." (see page 308 for more details)
>>
>> You might try to find coutil, which is made specifically made for
>> corsets. It's fairly lightweight, but very strong.
>>
>> Joan Jurancich
>> joa...@surewest.net
>>
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>>
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Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute

2012-02-06 Thread Wicked Frau
Looks like it might just be yellow cloth:

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   - Text 
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A

nankeen, n. and adj.
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*Pronunciation:*  Brit. /nanˈkiːn/ , /naŋˈkiːn/ , U.S. /nænˈkin/
*Forms:*  17 *nankein*, 17–18 *nanquin*, 17– *nankeen*, 17– *nankin*, 18 *
namking* (*U.S.*), 19– *nanking*. Also with capital initial.(Show
Less)
*Etymology:*  < *Nankin* , former spelling of the name of the city of *
Nanking* (see Nanking
n.);
the form *nankeen* is probably after -een
suffix1.
Compare French*nankin* , noun (1760 denoting a type of cotton fabric,
generally of a yellow colour, 1842 denoting a pale yellow colour) and
adjective (1804 in sense ‘of a pale yellow colour’), Dutch *nankin* , *
nanking* , noun (mid 19th cent.), German *Nanking* .

The name of the city, in the form *Lankin* or *Lanquin* (probably via
Portuguese), was applied to a kind of silk in the 17th cent.: see further
H. Yule and A. C. Burnell *Hobson-Jobson* (1886), s.v. *Nanking*.
(Show 
Less)
  *A.* n.
 *I.* A kind of cloth; senses relating to this.
 *1.*
 Thesaurus 
»
Categories 
»

 *a.* A kind of pale yellowish cloth, originally made at Nanking from a
yellow variety of cotton, but subsequently manufactured from ordinary
cotton which is then dyed; more fully nankeen cloth. Also in*pl.*: a piece
or variety of this cloth. Now chiefly *hist.*In some 18th-cent. uses perh.
referring to a variety of unbleached silk rather than cotton.
 *c*1700*Acct. of Sale of India
Silks
* 1/2   Damask Nankeens 403, at 5*l*.
1755in F. W. Fairholt *Satirical Songs & Poems on
Costume
* (1849) 239   Make his breeches of nankein, Most like nature, most like
skin.
1781A. Adams in *Familiar
Lett.
* (1876) 402   There are some articles, which come from India,‥Bengals,
nankeens, Persian silk.
*c*1809F. Buchanan in M. Martin *Eastern
India
* (1838) III. 244   Wool having the colour of nankeen cloth.
1878J. H. Gray
*China
* III. xxiii. 143   The cloth called nankin, generally written nankeen, is
of the greatest durability.
1891*Cent. 
Mag.
* Mar. 735   The middle and lower half had been supplanted by another vest
and trousers of faded nankeen.
1936*Jrnl. Southern
Hist.
* *2* 412   Translated, it runs like this, ‘Oh, you American knave dressed
in nankeen—You steal loaves of bread for Mister d'Quin!’
1957P. White
*Voss
* xi. 318   Many a citizen, walking at the water's edge, in good nankeen or
new merino, did entertain secret hopes.
1997T. Clark *Empire of
Skin
* ii. 79   The long overland trek toting skins of sea otters‥to exchange
for‥nankeens and tea.

On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 11:37 AM, Emily Gilbert

Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine

2012-02-06 Thread Wicked Frau
If you want to purchase a new machine, I recommend the lower end models of
Babylock.  I recently went looking on a similar quest and found that for
the price they seem to offer the most.  Side by side with other machines,
they made the least noise.  I was really surprised at how clickity clack
the Pfaff and Bernina were.  This may sound silly, but I figure if my
machine is making noises brand new, it can mean nothing but wear and
failure over the long  haul.

My preference however is to work on all metal vintage machines.  My newest
is a 1947 Kenmore (which was actually made in Germany).   I have 2 singers
one of which is a Featherweight.  Both are from the early 1900s.

I am sure you will get LOTS of differing opinions on this however!

Sg



On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Katy Bishop  wrote:

> I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to
> sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances.  She asked what
> would be a good starter machine.  Does any one here have
> recommendations?  Thanks.
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
>  Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>   Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
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Re: [h-cost] Costume exhibits in New York

2012-02-01 Thread Wicked Frau
I can't tell you about any upcoming exhibits.  But I am a nobody and I was
able to make an appointment in 2006 to put my hands on a set of military
bases!

Sg

On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 3:03 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> I have heard that some museums will let you view things not on display if
> you call and make an appointment, but I don't know if they extend this to
> teachers/professionals only or to the general public. I'd say, call and
> find
> out.
> Sharon C.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of humbugfo...@att.net
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 11:26 AM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Costume exhibits in New York
>
> Does anyone know of any upcoming costume exhibits in New York, specifically
> end of April? I've checked the Met and FITM websites and there isn't
> anything (aside from a standard exhibit from the collection at FITM). Ditto
> The Frick and the Museum of the City of New York.
>
> Also, does anyone know if the costume workshop at the Metropolitan Opera
> has
> tours?
>
> Thanks,
> Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Way OT - Can anyone recommend a travel agent?

2012-02-01 Thread Wicked Frau
Phoenix...
Thanks!

On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 3:02 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Where are you located?
> Sharon C.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Wicked Frau
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 9:59 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Way OT - Can anyone recommend a travel agent?
>
> I am traveling to the UK and Holland this spring and have some complex
> needs
> because of travel with others.  Does anyone have a travel agent
> recommendation?  I usually do all this myself, so I know no one!  Once I
> know exactly where I am going, I will be asking for fabric/costume visit
> places!
>
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[h-cost] Way OT - Can anyone recommend a travel agent?

2012-02-01 Thread Wicked Frau
I am traveling to the UK and Holland this spring and have some complex
needs because of travel with others.  Does anyone have a travel agent
recommendation?  I usually do all this myself, so I know no one!  Once I
know exactly where I am going, I will be asking for fabric/costume visit
places!

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Re: [h-cost] Pattern drafting history, Kidwell, Seligman

2012-01-26 Thread Wicked Frau
I don't know if this counts, but a number of years ago, a fellow from (I
think) a Missouri Opera company 'revived' a system used in the 19th
century.  The guy called it the Sartor system.  I think he self published
it. It isn't really a historical study, but it might be of interest.


I think I have my 'facts' right - I am sure someone else will correct me if
I am wrong.  He also wrote the "Annotated Arnold"
Trump, R. W. *The Annotated Arnold: A commentary on *Patterns of Fashion
1560-1620* by Janet Arnold*. Self-published.

Sg




On Thu, Jan 26, 2012 at 2:07 PM, mhprobe...@gmail.com
wrote:

> Does anyone know of researchers who are currently studying the history of
> pattern making? The only scholarly books I have on the subject are
> Kidwell's (1979) and Seligman's (1996), nothing more recent, and I don't
> know if anyone is doing similar research any more.
> thanks!
> Melissa Roberts
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Re: [h-cost] OT- shop machines

2012-01-23 Thread Wicked Frau
Do you know the model number of that mechanical bernina?  I'd sure like to
try one out.

Sg

On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 9:39 AM, Kim Baird  wrote:

> A lot of schools have Janome, but I can't see using anything but Bernina,
> if
> you want things that work well and can take abuse.
> I love the computerized machines, but Bernina still makes an all mechanical
> model that does everything, they even make a treadle.
> It is true that you want a good dealer, esp. if you have a "fleet" of
> machines that need maintenance.
> I haven't checked out sergers lately, but I can tell you that none of the
> big machine companies manufacture their own. They have them made in Asia,
> to
> their specifications. Baby Lock, Bernette or Juki would be good ones to
> look
> at.
> Personally, I would never buy a Singer or a White machine of any kind.
> Kim
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kathryn Pinner
> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 10:05 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] OT- shop machines
>
>  For those of you who run costume shops:
> What do you recommend for teaching basic sewing skills? Machines that will
> stand up to student abuse? Basic machines and also sergers?
>
>
> Kate Pinner
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] marking tools

2012-01-13 Thread Wicked Frau
And I thought that was just my imagination!  Me too!

Sg

On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 8:56 PM, Lists  wrote:

> Instead of using a regular pencil sharpener, try using one made for
> eyebrow,
> eyeliner or eye shadow pencils. I don't know why, but they give you a much
> better point that doesn't break as easily.
>
> Carolann Schmitt
> www.genteelarts.com
> Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2012
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Scranton Lace Company History

2012-01-13 Thread Wicked Frau
Wow, all that time I lived right around there and never knew that!!  Thank
you!

Sg

On Fri, Jan 13, 2012 at 6:59 AM, Ann Catelli  wrote:

> Florence, Massachusetts, was part of Northampton until its silk industry
> took off, when it separated & changed its name to reflect a great Italian
> city also known for its silk.
>
> Corticelli brand silk was manufactured there.
>
>
> Ann in CT
>
>
>
> 
>  From: "penn...@costumegallery.com" 
>
> I didn't know until yesterday that Scranton / Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
> area was known as Silk City.  They had 20 silk manufacturers in the 19th &
> 20th Centuries.  I put a photo of the Union Silk Mill on my Facebook page
> yesterday.
>
> Penny Ladnier
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Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons

2012-01-12 Thread Wicked Frau
Seems to me that I have had good luck googleing the model number and make
and getting stuff to come up.  Also, some folks will special order the
buttons for you.  As a matter of fact Jo Anns might even do that for you...

Sg

On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 8:03 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Where is a good place to buy the "La Mode" collection of vintage
> reproduction buttons online?  I cleaned out my local J-Ann's of a couple of
> styles without finding enough for a project.  And I go to J-Ann's as seldom
> as possible . . .
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> www.lavoltapress.com
> www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
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Re: [h-cost] How to stiffen rayon

2012-01-12 Thread Wicked Frau
Now that is thinking out of the box!  Good Job!

Sg

On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 12:30 PM, Laura Rubin wrote:

> Perhaps as an alternative option, if you're more set on the printed
> pattern than the current length of fabric that you have - have you
> considered Spoonflower?
>
> I imagine you could either take a picture of the fabric or create a
> similar design in a vector art program, and then upload it to
> Spoonflower to print on whatever fabric you wanted.  (The bonus being
> that if this is a particularly desirable and rare print, it would then
> be available to other folks and IIRC you'd get a cut.)
>
> Just some food for thought!
>
> -Laura
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Re: [h-cost] How to stiffen rayon

2012-01-12 Thread Wicked Frau
Have you tried flat lining it with a piece of lightweight woven
interfacing?  I do that with all kinds of stuff.  I don't seem to have much
of a problem with laundering.  If there is any separation, it can be
re-ironed.
With smaller stuff, I use spray on temporary adhesive.  Once the garment
(bodice, sleeve, etc.) is constructed, it never seems to separate.

Sg

On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 11:45 PM,  wrote:

> I have some cellulose rayon fabric, the kind that looks and behaves a lot
> like cotton, but has a very soft hand. I would like to find a way to make
> it less drapey so i can turn it into an Ottoman entari. It is printed with
> a very hard to find pattern, chintimani,
> http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/cintamani.html
> which i have not been able to find in a more suitable fabric.
>
> The garment will be lined and faced. But i'm afraid the outer rayon fabric
> will droop away from it. A friend recommended starching the fabric which
> might be good before cutting it out, but the garment will need to be washed
> and the fabric may droop after washing. If i use an interlining, i'm
> concerned the rayon will gradually sag unevenly away from it.
>
> Is there some way to bond whole pieces of fabric to a soft interlining?
> Some bonding agents have been recommended, but i'm not sure that they are
> suitable for whole garments.
>
> Or any other suggestions on what i can do to maintain the fabric in a
> somewhat firmer state?
>
> Thanks,
> Anahita
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Re: [h-cost] marking tools

2012-01-12 Thread Wicked Frau
I use a wide range of tools.  Marking darts or other things on both pieces
of the same pattern piece I use tracing wheel (or plastic 'knife) and
paper.  If I can't risk a mark of any kind I use tailor tacks.  I use
erasable pens (air or water) for tracing seam lines onto fabrics - these
are very temporary, so you can't leave them sit for long.  I LOVE these
chalk wheels   http://www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/chalk-pencils.html for
all kinds of stuff - they come in a bunch of colors.

The other thing I discovered (and actually got into the Threads tips and
tools section) is that Crayon erasable color pencils are hard, don't break
easily, can be sharpened to a  point, and they wash out!

Hope that helps!

Sg

On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 7:07 AM, Land of Oz  wrote:

> I've just about had it with the standard pencil type marking instruments
> at JoAnn's. If you try to sharpen them enough to make a detailed line, the
> chalk breaks off. If you try to leave the end wide and blunt, you can't
> make anything but the most basic dots.
>
> What do you pros out there use? I have a wheel and marking paper, but
> that's really hard on the pattern tissues and I like to re-use them if
> possible.
>
> What's your favorite and where do you get it?
>
> thanks
> Denise
> Iowa
>
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[h-cost] Wild shoes - A little OT

2012-01-11 Thread Wicked Frau
Maybe a little OT
But ya gotta see some of these

shoes.

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Re: [h-cost] Marginally costume, but

2012-01-09 Thread Wicked Frau
Hey it is fashion - and it will be historical someday!

Sg

On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 5:18 PM, Lavolta Press  wrote:

> a great way to use zipper tape!
>
> http://www.etsy.com/listing/**29084353/gold-stream-zipper-**necklace
>
> http://www.etsy.com/listing/**74268072/the-evolution-zipper-**necklace
>
> http://www.etsy.com/listing/**40041845/the-tangled-metal-**zipper-necklace
>
> http://www.etsy.com/listing/**40172392/madame-butterfly-**zipper-necklace
>
> http://www.etsy.com/listing/**32942385/the-black-swan-**zipper-neclace
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> Books on making historic clothing
> www.lavoltapress.com
> www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone recognize this movie?

2011-12-20 Thread Wicked Frau
Oh duhsometimes I am such a dork!


On Tue, Dec 20, 2011 at 2:50 PM, penhal...@juno.com wrote:

> Those are from the recent film 'Anonymous'.  KarenSeamstrix
>
> -- Original Message ------
> From: Wicked Frau 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: [h-cost] Anyone recognize this movie?
> Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2011 14:30:07 -0700
>
>
> http://netkushi.com/gallery2/index.php/Hollywood-Movie-Stills/A/Anonymous-Movie-2011/Anonymous-Movie-Stills/Anonymous_movie_stills_1
>
> There are a series of stills here, but no name for the movieanyone
> recognize which one it is?
>
> Sg
>
> <
> http://netkushi.com/gallery2/index.php/Hollywood-Movie-Stills/A/Anonymous-Movie-2011/Anonymous-Movie-Stills/Anonymous_movie_stills_1
> >
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> 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
> The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
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[h-cost] Anyone recognize this movie?

2011-12-20 Thread Wicked Frau
http://netkushi.com/gallery2/index.php/Hollywood-Movie-Stills/A/Anonymous-Movie-2011/Anonymous-Movie-Stills/Anonymous_movie_stills_1

There are a series of stills here, but no name for the movieanyone
recognize which one it is?

Sg


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Re: [h-cost] checking in for the first time, hope I do this right

2011-10-28 Thread Wicked Frau
Even though I have taken an extensive break from the list, when I return,
(to empty my inbox) I always find something worth reading!  Welcome to the
club!

Sg

On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 4:15 PM, Joan Jurancich  wrote:

> At 12:15 PM 10/5/2011, you wrote:
>
>> I hope I'm doing this right.  I've been lurking on this list for about 10
>> years or so but never posted.  I'm just trying to figure out how.  This is
>> my favorite list.  I don't costume much these days but I sew and hope to
>> costume again.
>>
>> Tanya
>>
>
> Hi, Tanya,
>  Welcome to the discussions.  I haven't been posting very much lately, but
> this list is a great learning resource on a wide variety of subjects.  Feel
> free to post if anything interests you or if you have a question.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joa...@surewest.net
>
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Re: [h-cost] Salt Source

2011-10-28 Thread Wicked Frau
I assume this is for dying?  I use morton 'rock' salt for water
conditioning.  As far as measuring goes it is pretty much the same cup for
cup...  (I've weighed it out)

Sg

On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 5:34 PM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey <
mary.d...@pierocarey.info> wrote:

>
> Oooh, good idea, I had forgotten about that Amish-inclined bulk store about
> 8 miles away!  And I might actually have time to get over there this
> weekend!  Thank you!
>
> Mary Piero Carey
>
> Rebecca said:
>
> If you have any Amish or Mennonite communities nearby you are in luck. I
> get 10 pound sacks of canning (non-iodized) salt from the local Mennonite
> bulk store. This is also where I get pounds of cloves, alspice and stick
> cinnamon for the holiday pommanders that I make every Christmas. Much
> cheaper than all those little bottles from the grocery.
>
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Re: [h-cost] (x-post) looking for illuminations of women in armor

2011-07-28 Thread Wicked Frau
Also, Joan of Arc on Spike TV tonight


On Wed, Jul 27, 2011 at 1:43 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Google "Joan of Arc" images. There are tons of pics there.
> Sharon C.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Elena House
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 11:37 AM
> To: Historical Costume; sca-g...@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [h-cost] (x-post) looking for illuminations of women in armor
>
> I need help with an image search!  I'm looking for
> illuminations/miniatures/tapestries of women in armor, c1330-1530.
> Allegories, saints, whatever--the only realism I need in the image is that
> it really be what people c1330-1530 thought a woman would look like,
> wearing
> armor!
>
> There's one 15thC image in particular that I'm remembering--a woman in
> hip-length gold armor, on horseback, possibly tilting--but even if I find
> that exact image, I'm still interested in everything else out there.  I'm
> most interested in late 15thC stuff, but the larger 1330-1530 time frame
> would all work nicely, and if there's anything especially cool outside of
> that wider time frame, I'm interested too.
> Paintings would probably have too high a level of detail for what I'm
> after,
> but again, if there's a really cool one, I'm still interested!
>
> PS--I've already been through the larsdatter.com collection. =}
>
> -E House
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Re: [h-cost] 15th c Headdress Help

2011-06-22 Thread Wicked Frau
Pictures???

On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 10:15 PM, Claire Clarke wrote:

> Margaret Fitzgerald tomb effigy, in
> St. Canice's Cathedral, Kilkenny, Ireland
>



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Re: [h-cost] 16th and 17th Century Portraits

2011-06-15 Thread Wicked Frau
Wow - my thoughts exactly!  Ditto
Thank you S much!


Sg

On Sat, Jun 11, 2011 at 9:56 AM, Helen Pinto wrote:

> Wow. Great resource. Lots of paintings I've never seen before. Thanks for
> posting the link.
> -Helen
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year

2011-05-16 Thread Wicked Frau
Great to hear from you again.  Lovely work (as usual!)
Sg

On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 11:52 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews <
drews...@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

> Thanks for all your welcomes. I am glad you accept me here again.
> Here is my webpage with the tambour embroidered dress that almost killed me
> :-)
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/empire.htm
>
> Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] the princesses' headgear

2011-05-05 Thread Wicked Frau
I thought the same thing, then another friend pointed out that maybe they
were making fun of Mascara too, since they both looked like raccoons!.

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 3:46 PM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey <
mary.d...@pierocarey.info> wrote:

> Well, I have to wonder if those hats were not a bit of a protest.  Were
> they annoyed that their mum Fergie was not invited?
>
>
> "hey, sis? you know everyone's supposed to dress really special?  And
> everybody keeps their outfits a, like, total secret?"
>
> "yeah, so?"
>
> "Lets get REALLY SPECIAL hats!"
>
>
> speculating wildly,
>
> Mary Piero Carey
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Re: [h-cost] Cleaning real metal threads in fabric

2011-04-25 Thread Wicked Frau
Yes, I can have it dry-cleaned.  I just wasn't sure if that was  a good idea
or not.  It is okay to do that and that would help?

Thank you for all your suggestions!

Sg

On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 4:54 PM, Bphall76  wrote:

> Some indian silver does go light gold when tarnishing; it has to do with it
> not being an alloy of something and silver.  I also had an old sari.  Are
> you able to have the piece dry-cleaned?
>
> Britta
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Sylvia Rognstad 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Mon, Apr 25, 2011 4:17 pm
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleaning real metal threads in fabric
>
>
> Doesnt sound like silver if it's yellowing.  Silver turns black when it
> tarnishes, which it does, very fast, as you probably know.  Or is it the
> fabric that is yellowing?
>
> 
>
> Sylvia Rognstad
> Costume/clothing design & construction
> Alterations & home dec
> http://www.ezzyworld.com
>
>
> On Apr 25, 2011, at 4:37 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > If it's real silver, then a half-and-half mixture of water and > baking
> soda will
> > clean off the oxidation, and probably not harm the silk? I don't > know,
> I've
> > never been near silk with wet baking soda, I only know it works for >
> cleaning
> > silver.
> >
> >
> >
> > Claudine
> >
> >
> >
> > - Original Message 
> >> From: Wicked Frau 
> >> To: Historical Costume 
> >> Sent: Mon, April 25, 2011 3:28:04 PM
> >> Subject: [h-cost] Cleaning real metal threads in fabric
> >>
> >> I have a gollar which I lined with a vintage black silk and real  >>
> silver
> >> threaded sari. (I think it is silver - it is definitely some metal >> -
>  it is
> >> heavy)  One side of it has started to yellow (the silver  part).  >>
> Anyone have
> >> any suggestions on how to clean the metal without  ruining the >> black
>  silk?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Sg
> >> ___
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> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
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[h-cost] Cleaning real metal threads in fabric

2011-04-25 Thread Wicked Frau
I have a gollar which I lined with a vintage black silk and real silver
threaded sari. (I think it is silver - it is definitely some metal - it is
heavy)  One side of it has started to yellow (the silver part).  Anyone have
any suggestions on how to clean the metal without ruining the black silk?

Thanks,

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Cabbage question

2011-04-24 Thread Wicked Frau
This is the translation used in Juan Alcega's's tailoring book for cutting
small pieces, trim etc. out of the cabbage of left over fabric.

Interesting!

Sg

On Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 12:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

>
>
> On 4/19/2011 11:31 AM, Stacey Dunleavy wrote:
>
>> The shoddy manufacturing is interesting - I was thinking pre-industrial
>> revolution.  I can't comprehend that cloth that had been painstakingly
>> spun
>> and woven would be simply stuffed inside a pillow.  My modern mindset
>> keeps
>> thinking that the thrifty Medieval or Elizabethan housewife would at least
>> save them for clothing repairs, or consoldated with other scraps for
>> blankets.
>>
>
> According to the Oxford English Dictionary, "garbage, carbage" and possibly
> "cabbage" were used in the 17th century to refer to stuffing (or
> interfacting?) materials.
>
> Herrick Hesper. (Hazl.) I. 79 "Upon some Women, Pieces, patches, ropes of
> haire, In-laid garbage ev'rywhere." II. 325 Upon Lupes, "His credit cannot
> get the inward carbage for his cloathes as yet."
>
> Regarding cabbage as a perk, early 18th century: "Taylors are so called,
> because of their‥Love of that Vegetable. The Cloth they steal and purloin‥is
> also called Cabbage." "Your taylor instead of shreads, cabages whole yards
> of cloath."
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> Two new books of 1880s clothing patterns!
> www.lavoltapress.com
> www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
>
>
>
>
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[h-cost] How to cover your head tutorial? Lost link - help.

2011-03-03 Thread Wicked Frau
Hi all!  One of you wonderful people out there has a tutorial on how to tie
fabric on your head, and your use of veils.  It is a vertical series of
Photos of said authorI can' find the link - I want to share it with a
class.

Thanks!

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Seeking help with La Fleur de Lyse pattern -11th-12thCentury

2011-01-29 Thread Wicked Frau
Just a note, Dame Angele taught me that putting a gore in the front can
cause problems.   It can catch between your legs when walking.  In the end
all you need is fullness, so perhaps consider cutting only three gores and
putting them on the sides and back.

Sg

On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 9:15 PM, Laurie Taylor
wrote:

> Oops...meant to say 'indecisive'!
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Laurie Taylor
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 9:11 PM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking help with La Fleur de Lyse pattern
> -11th-12thCentury
>
> Thank you so much!  That really helps.  Just having someone else's thoughts
> helps when I'm feeling so decisive, but the Greenland gowns thought is
> right
> on track...and just what I need.
>
> Nothing like trying to sew garb for an event with a deadline to chase away
> all thoughts of all the many things that I've seen and read!
>
> laurie
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:53 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking help with La Fleur de Lyse pattern -
> 11th-12thCentury
>
> Hi Laurie,
>
> I haven't made this pattern, and unfortunately it's not in my collection to
> refer to. Based on my (admittedly limited) knowledge of clothing from that
> time,
> however, I think your first assumption is correct: the long gores go into
> the
> side seams, the short gores into CF and CB. I seem to recall some of the
> Greenland gowns where made that way.
>
>
>
> Claudine
>
>
>
> - Original Message 
> > From: Laurie Taylor 
> > To: Historical Costume 
> > Sent: Sun, January 23, 2011 7:43:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking help with La Fleur de Lyse pattern -
> 11th-12th
> >Century
> >
> > I've been looking at this pattern some more, and I still can't decide
> what
> > the instructions mean.
> >
> > There are 4 body panels - two fronts, two  backs.  It has side seams and
> > seams up center front and center  back.
> >
> > There are 2 sets of gores.  One longer - to well above the  waist, or
> about 4
> > inches below the armscye, and one shorter, to about waist  level.  I'm
> > viewing them as from the hem up as the notches seem to work  that way.
> >
> > The instructions and the notches seem rather vague.  I'm  thinking that
> > probably the pairs of short gores go front/back and the long  gores go to
> the
> > side seams - or vice versa - long gores front/back and short  gores to
> the
> > side seams.  There may be something that I'm missing, but I  can't figure
> it
> > out.
> >
> > If anyone has used this pattern, I'd love to talk  to you!
> >
> > Laurie T.
> >
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Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobe

2011-01-05 Thread Wicked Frau
Had to see what you all were talking about:  Maybe this was obvious but I
didn't know who Maud was or what the S&S meant.
http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1333_styleandsplendour/wardrobe/wardrobe1.html

Wow
- what a figure that woman had!

Sg

On Sun, Jan 2, 2011 at 7:09 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell <
rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu> wrote:

> I?am ernestly hoping to see if I can get some of this work up on line...not
> my forte but maybe with some help from a techie.
> I had an exhibit "Cut Down To Size 2"at a small gallery the month of
> December.? "...Size" was two years ago.? This recent show included the
> models who wear garments from the theme"The Bifurcation of American
> Fashion...1800-1940".
> In retirement, I find there are so many periods of history that I did not
> get to do on stage or otherwise and can now employ my time in research and
> the cutting table in bringing such fashion to 3D delight.
> -Original Message-
> From: "Heather Rose Jones" 
> Sent 1/2/2011 6:28:40 PM
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobeOn Jan 2, 2011, at 11:13 AM,
> Emily Gilbert wrote:
> > Ooh, post a picture when you're done - and pictures of the other gowns,
> too!  I think the concept of making doll-size historical costumes is really
> interesting.
> I've had a lot of fun making doll-sized replicas of costumes (and other
> goods) from archaeological finds.  There are some pictures of theme here:
> http://www.heatherrosejones.com/digthatdoll/index.html
> Heather
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Re: [h-cost] Fur trims & advice

2010-12-07 Thread Wicked Frau
This edition of Threads has an article on itI will try to get a hold of
it - my collection doesn't go back that far.  More recent versions have some
tips - I will look those up.


Sewing with fur David Page Coffin 17 JUN/JUL 1988 8

Saragrace

On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 1:38 PM, Cin  wrote:

> Vogue Patterns mag Dec 2010/Jan 2011 issue has a realy nice article on
> working with fur.  It has a huge chunk of advice for working with old
> furs, mending splits, reshaping and more.  I dont generally get this
> mag, but this article was a "must have" for me.  I too, have a closet
> full of vintage furs and a box in the garage labelled "road kill"
> filled with furs with big holes, badly worn areas & other problems.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> cinbar...@gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 2:22 AM, Kate Bunting 
> wrote:
> > My current project is to trim the 17th century jacket, which I made last
> winter, with fur. Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old
> fur coats in charity shops, but a fellow reenactor kindly gave me the
> sleeves of a rabbit coat during the summer. I want it to look like the
> fur-edged jackets you see in many Dutch paintings.
> >
> > Does anyone have any advice about this? I've borrowed a library book with
> instructions for making fur collars etc. It recommends you to dampen the
> skin side of the fur and pin it into shape on a board before cutting. I've
> made a paper template but haven't had time to do anything more yet.
> >
> > Kate Bunting
> > Librarian & 17th century reenactor
> >
> >
> > _
> > The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and
> reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was
> sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please
> direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk.
> > The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy
> > ___
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Re: [h-cost] costuming a window

2010-12-04 Thread Wicked Frau
Haa, some day I swear I will find a room that I can make puff and slash
curtains for!

Sg

On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 12:57 AM, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:

> Rght. Well, my window _fan_ needed a costume. Since I'm in a mild
> winter area (coastal So. Cal), I decided to leave the box fan in the
> bathroom window this year. It's not as crazy as it sounds. I really only
> need it covered during the coldest couple of weeks. Since costumers
> regularly sew on some pretty weird stuff, I thought you'd all appreciate the
> misery of dealing with the materials of choice.
>
> Having had good luck and excellent insulation covering the garage window
> (single pane) with a framework and staple-gunned silver bubble film (think
> those cheap car window foldup shades), I decided to take a similar approach
> to the box fan.
>
> The fan is mounted in a piece of painted plywood in a double-hung window.
> I'm not going to change this any time soon, as the house is historic. The
> entire "box" of the fan projects inward. The proposed design: cut the shape
> of the box, and cut 4" strips to go around it.
>
> It's like making a pillow, only without the second flat side. Or maybe a
> pillbox hat. Material is stiff! Assembly was a royal pain, since the stuff
> is so stiff that if it runs into anything on the table, it stops the feed
> dogs from helping it advance and the needle ends up doing jumping jacks in
> place. I had to guide the insulating film through the machine to avoid
> letting it stop, but not so fast that I jammed it and broke a needle.
>
> This was a 3- needle job. The third managed NOT to break :)  Once the basic
> pillbox shape was made, I then stitched a length of single fold bias tape to
> the inside and topstitched the other side. This is a place for a future
> drawstring. Beautiful it ain't .
>
> Test placement over the fan was perfect. I know it will keep out drafts WAY
> better than the bath towel that it replaced. The look is more high-tech than
> I'd prefer, since I'm an old-fashioned kinda decorator, but WORKS is good.
>
> Hooray for *draftless* showers!! :)
>
>== Marjorie Wilser
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Fur trims, was What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

2010-12-04 Thread Wicked Frau
I'll be following this post closely, as I am about to embark on a similar
project.  I realize you are in the UK Kate, but have you tried looking on
ebay?  The US one is flooded with old coats of many kinds.

Sg

On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 3:22 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

> My current project is to trim the 17th century jacket, which I made last
> winter, with fur. Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old
> fur coats in charity shops, but a fellow reenactor kindly gave me the
> sleeves of a rabbit coat during the summer. I want it to look like the
> fur-edged jackets you see in many Dutch paintings.
>
> Does anyone have any advice about this? I've borrowed a library book with
> instructions for making fur collars etc. It recommends you to dampen the
> skin side of the fur and pin it into shape on a board before cutting. I've
> made a paper template but haven't had time to do anything more yet.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th century reenactor
>
>
> _
> The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves
> the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to
> you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct
> any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk.
> The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy
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[h-cost] Greenberg and Hammer closed!

2010-10-21 Thread Wicked Frau
Whaa!

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http://www.crainsnewyork.com/article/20100930/REAL_ESTATE/100939990&h=d8035
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Re: [h-cost] Sheer linen

2010-10-16 Thread Wicked Frau
This company sells it:  http://www.ulsterlinen.com/  Very nice stuff.

So does this one:  http://www.libecohomestores.com/index_en.htm

They used to be known as Linen
House.

Sg

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 12:08 PM, otsisto  wrote:

> Bjarne posted it long ago and I knew I didn't have the funds then or have
> it
> in the future so I didn't save it.
> I think it was in Copenhagan and actually I think it was $65 and not $45.
> Also I vaguely remember someone mentioning a European fabric store that
> specialized in Catholic fabrics that had the sheer linen for openwork,
> again
> didn't save it.
>
> I have found at Jo Ann's a cotton/linen blend that came very close to the
> chemise weight. I "think" it is called tissue linen.
>
> De
>
> -Original Message-
> Not that I'm in the market for it currently ;) but I'd love to know the
> name
> of the company in Europe that offers the sheer linen...
>
> -M
>
>
>
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[h-cost] Piece of vintage baleen stay

2010-09-22 Thread Wicked Frau
Hi all, I posted this request in March and several folks responded willing
to help, but were unable to do so until this fall. I of course have lost the
contacts, so if you have a piece you are willing to part with I would be
ever so greatful. Saragrace Knauf
h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Hi all, I am looking for a
piece of vintage baleen stay. I had a piece and have lost it. I use it in my
lectures to show people what it really was like. If anyone knows of anyone
willing to part with a piece I would be very grateful - and willing to pay
for it. Saragrace h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume I know in Canada you can be
gifted with baleen, but there may be issues in the selling/buying of it
(unless already in a garment) - leastwise it was when I was on the hunt for
it over 10 years ago..you may have better luck at your friendliest costume
museum. Bess Darnley / Sarah Paterson
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Re: [h-cost] QEWU

2010-09-21 Thread Wicked Frau
Monica is right, but it is such an interesting read!

Sg

On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 1:52 AM, monica spence
wrote:

>
> Hi Zuzana,
> There is a bit of everything in this book, but ,mostly inventory, who made
> what etc. If you are looking for technical things (patterns, construction
> tips, stc.) then, IMHO, this is not a book that you would be interested in
> buying. Stick to the P of F (#4 was released in 2008).
>
> Best Regards,
> Monica
>
> Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
> Senior Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
> Art Institute of New York City
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
> Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 4:20 AM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] QEWU
>
> Hello,
>
> I am FINALLY thinking of buying this book as it has great reviews, but
> unfortunately I cannot have a look at it as it isn't in any of the local
> libraries. I love Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion and if QEWU is
> something of this sort, I would definitely go for it. So, my question is,
> how much is there about construction? How much text (theory)? How many
> pictures and drawings? I am looking for something that will help me
> recreate
> the costumes, not a theoretical text about what was worn.
>
> Thank you for any advice,
>
> Zuzana
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[h-cost] Name of horned 14th century headdress?

2010-08-27 Thread Wicked Frau
I am listening to Alison Weir's biography of Katherine Sywnford. She
mentions that Anne of Bohemia (future wife of Richard II) introduced the
horned headdress to England at the time.  I don't have the actual book but
the word sounds like moonatire???  Anyone know what the word is?

Thanks,

Saragrace
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Re: [h-cost] Upcoming book

2010-08-27 Thread Wicked Frau
I am out of the loop on this.  What is the conjectured reason for either of
them being delayed?
Thanks,
Sg

On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 6:54 AM, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. <
manordto...@stthomas.edu> wrote:

> Well, Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns is still
> listed as October, too.  That is so not going to happen.
>
> Shelly
>
>
> On 8/27/10 8:45 AM, "Leah Janette"  wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Clothes of the Common People 1580-1660
>
> http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?AB~emailReview~&itemno=109311&custno=12840
>
> Shall we place bets as to whether it will really come out in October as
> announced?
>
> Janet
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Re: [h-cost] Gingher Scissor Service

2010-08-18 Thread Wicked Frau
This too is how I do all my shears - they are fab!!

Sg

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 6:02 AM, Martha Sieting  wrote:

> FYI all - I sent my Gingher pinking shears in to their repair service on
> July 30 and the postmark on the return package says August 9.  Fast service
> and they cut like a dream again!  Highly recommended if you have Ginghers
> that need a little fixing up.
>
> Best,
>
> Martha
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Re: [h-cost] Gray Line Linen

2010-07-30 Thread Wicked Frau
I have had to call them a number of times to get stuff straight.   But I
also recommend purchasing the samples.  If you don't get satisfaction on the
first call, keep calling...I have found the owner ( a male?) more responsive
than some of the female folk I have spoken to

Sg



On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 9:58 PM, Michelle Plumb wrote:

> Hooray, the site's up and running again!
> Look at all the goodies!
> Michelle
>
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Re: [h-cost] Sharpening Shears.

2010-07-30 Thread Wicked Frau
I buy Gingher and find their sharpening service via mail excellent and cost
effective.

Sg

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 1:17 AM, Sharon Doig wrote:

> I take mine to the local King of Knives store. They have a man who sharpens
> knives and scissors.  Find you local chef store that sells European/US high
> end
> knives. Ask them where they send theirs.
>
> Mine come back very sharp all the time.
>
> Sharon
>
>  Sharon Doig in Canberra - Australia
> E: po_box_...@yahoo.com.au
>
> Blog:  http://www.rosiesstuffnsew.blogspot.com
> 
> Make your mark and achieve success
> or, if need be, die in the attempt.
> Miriam Leslie
> 
>
>
>
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[h-cost] Looking for Zuzana Kraemerová

2010-07-12 Thread Wicked Frau
Zuzana, if you see thisI've been trying to contact you off list but
haven't heard back from you.

Saragrace
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Re: [h-cost] Sort of OT - Anyone speak/write Italian?

2010-07-09 Thread Wicked Frau
I will find out and send it onthank you~!

On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 11:47 AM, otsisto  wrote:

> I'm not awake.:P
> What is the word or phrase and time period and I can swing this by the
> Italian list I am on.
>
> De
>
> -Original Message-
> This is actually costume related.  I was asked if I knew anyone who
> spoke/wrote Italian.  The reason is someone wants to write something in
> Italian on a "historical" garment...so I am guessing medievalish Italian.
>
> Thanks
>
> Sg
>
>
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[h-cost] Sort of OT - Anyone speak/write Italian?

2010-07-09 Thread Wicked Frau
This is actually costume related.  I was asked if I knew anyone who
spoke/wrote Italian.  The reason is someone wants to write something in
Italian on a "historical" garment...so I am guessing medievalish Italian.

Thanks

Sg
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[h-cost] Proper name for black layer?

2010-06-16 Thread Wicked Frau
This is a page from a manuscript.  If you click on the image another window
will come up with a higher resolution image.

What is the proper name for the black layer of clothing in the picture of
him fully dressed (from the front?).  It is most likely sleevless  The
red part is his pour-point right? Or is it his doublet?  Is the black called
a Jerkin?

The origin is Flemish, but the house of Nassau had lands sprinkled all over
the place

http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=mid&IllID=28499

http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=mid&IllID=22357

Thanks to all of you who know more than I do about this period

Sg
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[h-cost] New to me - Historic Clothing Reconstruction

2010-05-27 Thread Wicked Frau
http://www.kingstudio.it/

I must have been asleep in 2004.  How did I miss this exhibit in NY???

Very cool.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

2010-05-23 Thread Wicked Frau
I made it to Feminine Touch Fabrics in Syracuse yesterday.  Great store!
 Nice people!  The store is only a few years old - which is surprising to me
because you wouldn't think anyone would dream of attempting this in this
economy.

Nothing like Jo Ann's!  YEAH!

The store has a "back room" warehouse type set up with all kinds of
different stuff...the front rooms are sunny, nicely set up with all their
"new" stuff.  Good prices on some stuff...and you get what you pay for when
it is more expensive.

I just had to buy some imported man's shirting fabric (Italy).  It is 100%
cotton, but so fine and has a sheen to it.  I was somewhat doubtful as to
its content, but did a burn test when I got home - it passed with flying
colors.

So -  Be sure to visit these folks when if you come to this area.  Quite
frankly, knowing what I know now - I would not bother to drive to Rochester
unless you get some information that new stores are open, or under new
management.

Sg


On Fri, May 21, 2010 at 6:17 PM, Wicked Frau  wrote:

> Just an update on shopping so far in these areas:
>
> I haven't been to the suggested Syracuse Feminine Touch Fabrics yet.  I
> went to Rochester today - the general consensus is that there isn't much out
> there because the tailors still in business don't sell fabric unless you
> want something made.
>
> I did try the following:
>
> Fabrics and Findings is now completely upholstery fabric.  Very small, but
> nice store.  Helpful fellow, tried to direct me to more "apparel"
> stuffbut really didn't have much more of a suggestion than Jo Ann's.
>
> I went to Jackie Lynn's Fabrics. Nice store with different stuff than what
> I see in Phoenix - quilting oriented, but they do have an apparel section.
>  Good prices on stuff - except for stuff they are obviously getting from
> Black and Sons Very nice staff who directed me here:
>
> Fabric City - Mostly upholstery, but had a (very) small collection of wools
> and wool blends from an out of business tailor across the street.  Very nice
> lady who obviously knew the history of fabric in the Rochester area.
>
> Sighnot very many places anymore which have anything other than the
> average Jo Ann stuff  These are all tiny stores just makin' it.
>
> Bless those who are still surviving.
>
> I hope to get to Syracuse for the Feminine Touch Fabrics tomorrow...but it
> depends on how my sister is feeling..
>
> Taa for now...thanks for the leads!!
>
> Sg
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 4:48 AM, Wicked Frau  wrote:
>
>> Any of you shop in these areas?  I am particularly interested in
>> wool...but linen and silk are always fine...  I am here visiting family for
>> a few days.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Sg
>>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

2010-05-21 Thread Wicked Frau
Just an update on shopping so far in these areas:

I haven't been to the suggested Syracuse Feminine Touch Fabrics yet.  I went
to Rochester today - the general consensus is that there isn't much out
there because the tailors still in business don't sell fabric unless you
want something made.

I did try the following:

Fabrics and Findings is now completely upholstery fabric.  Very small, but
nice store.  Helpful fellow, tried to direct me to more "apparel"
stuffbut really didn't have much more of a suggestion than Jo Ann's.

I went to Jackie Lynn's Fabrics. Nice store with different stuff than what I
see in Phoenix - quilting oriented, but they do have an apparel section.
 Good prices on stuff - except for stuff they are obviously getting from
Black and Sons Very nice staff who directed me here:

Fabric City - Mostly upholstery, but had a (very) small collection of wools
and wool blends from an out of business tailor across the street.  Very nice
lady who obviously knew the history of fabric in the Rochester area.

Sighnot very many places anymore which have anything other than the
average Jo Ann stuff  These are all tiny stores just makin' it.

Bless those who are still surviving.

I hope to get to Syracuse for the Feminine Touch Fabrics tomorrow...but it
depends on how my sister is feeling..

Taa for now...thanks for the leads!!

Sg




On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 4:48 AM, Wicked Frau  wrote:

> Any of you shop in these areas?  I am particularly interested in wool...but
> linen and silk are always fine...  I am here visiting family for a few days.
>
> Thanks
>
> Sg
>
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[h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

2010-05-19 Thread Wicked Frau
Any of you shop in these areas?  I am particularly interested in wool...but
linen and silk are always fine...  I am here visiting family for a few days.

Thanks

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] textile pattern of Charles de Blois pourpoint

2010-05-14 Thread Wicked Frau
Hi, Zuzana - I embarked on the same project many moons ago so I have lots of
up close pictures and did some enhancing in a graphics program and a bunch
of other information.  Unfortunately, I am not at home and won't be for some
time -

Also, my sister who is a graphic artist offered to help me clean the images
up - I am with her right now ... so maybe we could just "get 'er done"!

I'd be interested in what you come up with and perhaps could share the cost
of the "set up".
Which fabric company were you going to work with?

If you are interested contact me off list (saragrace.knauf @ gmail .com)

Saragrace

On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 12:36 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova
wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I want to make a reproduction fabric of the Charles de Blois pourpoint. The
> problem is that I cannot find any detailed picture that would clearly show
> the pattern. The best I found so far is:
> http://www.musee-des-tissus.com/en/02_02/col06/tis07/ima_2.gif
> Does anybody have a better picture?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zuzana
> ___
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>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] printed reproduction of early 15th-century fabric

2010-05-11 Thread Wicked Frau
Neat O!!!  Thanks

On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 1:10 PM, Kimiko Small  wrote:

> Thank you for sharing this Melanie. That is beautiful. I'd love to get some
> of that fabric in silk, and it's not my time period.
>
>  Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> "Be the change you want to see in the world." ~ Ghandi
>
>
> The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern
> http://www.margospatterns.com/
>
>
>
> - Original Message 
> > From: Melanie Schuessler 
> > To: Historical Costume 
> > Sent: Sat, May 8, 2010 6:36:37 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] printed reproduction of early 15th-century fabric
> >
> > A textile company in Sweden has recreated the fabric of the extant
> "golden gown
> > of Queen Margareta" and also a somewhat speculative reproduction of the
> gown
> > itself.  The fabric has a printed rather than woven design and will be
> > available in silk and in cotton.  Details
> > here:
> http://www.durantextiles.com/newsletter/documents/news_3be_10.asp
>
> Melanie
> > Schuessler
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Re: [h-cost] List of Hunnisett Films?

2010-04-14 Thread Wicked Frau
Yes - you are correct it was for a TV program/film - she says this too in
her book.  What a shame, the poor woman did so many productions (I did find
somewhere where it gave a number) and you can hardly find a reference to her
online!

Thank you all for responding

Sg

On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 4:54 AM, Viv Watkins  wrote:

> When I did a course with Jean, she mentioned the Arnolfini dress - It is
> quite a while ago but I am pretty sure she said she made it for a television
> programme.  I can't remember if she said which programme - sorry.
>
> Best wishes
> Viv.
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Re: [h-cost] List of Hunnisett Films?

2010-04-13 Thread Wicked Frau
Yeah, I have searched the Internet, Netflix and IMDB...That is the only film
I found as well.

Thanks for Trying!

Sg

On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 8:32 PM, Penny Ladnier
wrote:

> Sg,
>
> imdb.com only has The Slipper and the Rose: The Story of Cinderella (1976)
> .
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> 14 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
>
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[h-cost] List of Hunnisett Films?

2010-04-13 Thread Wicked Frau
Does anyone know where to look up a list of films for which Jean Hunnisett
designed/made costumes?

I am particularly interested in the one where she supposedly made the
Arnolfini Wedding Dress costume for.  She mentions it in her book, but
doesn't list the  name of the film.
I really want to see her reproduction of the gown because I have been
fiddling around with her pattern for the sleeve and don't see how it works.

Thanks!

Sg
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[h-cost] Piece of vintage baleen stay

2010-03-04 Thread Wicked Frau
Hi all, I am looking for a piece of vintage baleen stay. I had a piece and
have lost it.  I use it in my lectures to show people what it really was
like.  If anyone knows of anyone willing to part with a piece I would be
very grateful - and willing to pay for it.

Saragrace
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[h-cost] Clover Markers: Chalking a line

2010-01-13 Thread Wicked Frau
I just saw these for the first time last weekend.  I now have two - they are
fabulous
I was working on wool last weekend, and by the time I had finished cutting
the pattern out (I was using the chalk to mark the right side of the fabric)
it had disappeared.

But still they make great precise little lines.  I will try the construction
refills - I assume you got those at Lowes or Home Depot?

Sg

On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 6:43 PM, Ann Catelli  wrote:

> The construction chalk line works wonderfully.
> I have used it for c.1300 garments out of modern 60" width fabric, where
> the panel from hem to hem is much longer than any straight edge I own.
>
> And if you have invested in a little Clover chalk marker, get the chalk
> refill for the construction sort.  It's less expensive & gives much more
> chalk.
>
> Ann in CT
>
> ---  stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:
>
> > Not on fabric but it works well on building sites,
> >
> > -C.
> >
> > >
> > > My idea to mark the placement of these lines involves a chalk line
> > > snapped against the silk that can then be marked with a disappearing
> > > Anyone done anything like this on fabric?
>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] How do I wash?

2009-11-03 Thread Wicked Frau
I agree with "C." below.  You just never know.  And, just because you get it
through one wash in the machine doesn't mean you can do it again.  The
agitation REALLY makes a difference.

Sg

On Tue, Nov 3, 2009 at 2:18 PM,  wrote:

> Dry clean or hand wash with wool wash, cool to cold water, line dry, press
> lightly,
>
> -C.
>
> > I just bought some 100% wool gabardine. I'd like to machine wash it, but
> am
> > worried I might mess it up. I was thinking--Cold water, tumble dry low.
> Is
>
>
>
> 
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>
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