Re: [h-cost] fine drawing

2006-02-11 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
You're right. Fine drawing is described in the
instructions as "like lacing" so it sounds like it
could be used to reinforce a seam. It just wouldn't
look anything like the pictures I posted when used
that way. :-)

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RE: [h-cost] fine drawing samples

2006-02-10 Thread Betsy Marshall
Those remind me greatly of the stitch used in "pattern darning"
Of an Icelandic altar-cloth (charted by Carol... hmm; I'll find it if
anybody really needs to know); which I also saw taught/demonstrated at a
Pennsic class on hand sewing as a technique to repair small rips: up through
the cloth beside the rip, down thru the cut and up again on the other side-
repeat for a bit of a figure 8 pattern. Works really well too!
Betsy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 7:11 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing samples

I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not,
but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course,"
c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as
the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming,
but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming
does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   
  The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm.
   
  I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, "Plain
Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing."
http://hollisandbell.com/
   
  Melissa Roberts


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Re: [h-cost] fine drawing samples

2006-02-10 Thread Dawn

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but here are two samples 
of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course," c1900, where it's used to 
patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's 
different from seaming, but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming 
does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg

  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   


Thanks, but in the quote I was looking at, the seam has already been 
backstitched, so it doesn't make any sense that it would then use a 
technique like that. I think it's more likely to be the ladder-stitch 
that was suggested before, as a method of reinforcement to prevent the 
center seam from having too much stress on it.



Dawn


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[h-cost] fine drawing samples

2006-02-10 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but 
here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course," c1900, 
where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the 
stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming, but it 
does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   
  The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm.
   
  I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, "Plain 
Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing."  
http://hollisandbell.com/
   
  Melissa Roberts


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Re: [h-cost] fine drawing

2006-02-08 Thread Dawn

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine 
drawing should be used.
Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to 
make an extra pleat? 



It's for joining the center back seam above the pleats "working from the 
skirt opening upwards". The instructions for the pleats are in the next 
paragraph.




Dawn



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[h-cost] fine drawing

2006-02-08 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews
I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine 
drawing should be used.
Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to make an 
extra pleat? Then she perhaps is meaning that this seam should be very 
accurately made with tiny stitches, to hold well, as there only is very 
little seam allowance here. For my gustavian suit, wich has this slash and 
extra pleat, i whipstitched the parts together, with very fine stitches. It 
perhaps is one of the most difficult places on a coat to make.


Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?

2006-02-08 Thread Lalah
I  am  going to hazzard a guess here as a seamstress, not as an
authority  on  18th century men's wear.  I would think that the
fine  drawing may mean a fine gathering stitch used to make the
upper  layer  lay  flat.  I have done many curved seams though,
and  never  needed  to  use that  method,  but  it does help in
getting  sleeves  into  armholes  (hidden  gathering stitch, of
course).  Just a possibility.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 17:32:19 +0100
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
Hi Dawn,
Gosh  i  never  read  that  chapter,  i surely will now. I dont
understand this
fine-drawing  thing either. Never heard it. Dont you think they
just mean
that  you have to press the seams to the sides and iron? I have
never seen
any stitches used on the right side of the back pieces.
In  the  american  book  Costume  Close  Up  there  are  sewing
instruktions two of a
mans coat. Only types of stitches used is: back stitches, point
á rabattre
sous la main and slanted hemming stitches.
Bjarne
- Original Message -
From: "Dawn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing?
>  I'm  trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's
Clothes_ for
>  the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent
hardcover
> edition)
>
>  "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong
side and then
>  fine-drawing  on  the  right, working from the skirt opening
upwards."
>
>
> Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I
found two
>  references  online  that  seem to suggest it is a method for
joining fabric
>  by  butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a
seam that's
> already backstitched... does it?
>
> Can anyone clarify this for me?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?

2006-02-08 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Dawn,
Gosh i never read that chapter, i surely will now. I dont understand this 
fine-drawing thing either. Never heard it. Dont you think they just mean 
that you have to press the seams to the sides and iron?  I have never seen 
any stitches used on the right side of the back pieces.
In the american book Costume Close Up there are sewing instruktions two of a 
mans coat. Only types of stitches used is: back stitches, point á rabattre 
sous la main and slanted hemming stitches.


Bjarne


- Original Message - 
From: "Dawn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing?


I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for 
the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover 
edition)


"The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then 
fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."



Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I found two 
references online that seem to suggest it is a method for joining fabric 
by butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a seam that's 
already backstitched... does it?


Can anyone clarify this for me?



Dawn


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[h-cost] fine drawing?

2006-02-08 Thread Dawn
I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for 
the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover 
edition)


"The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and 
then fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."



Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I found two 
references online that seem to suggest it is a method for joining fabric 
by butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a seam that's 
already backstitched... does it?


Can anyone clarify this for me?



Dawn


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