Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-28 Thread Brangwyne
The other trick I've found is start at the BOTTOM of the gore and sew 
upwards. No matter what. THEN hang the dress for 3 - 7 days and hem.


Works like a dream. Have three gowns done this way for myself and one 
for a friend that still haven't 'bagged' out after two years.


Starr

At 09:44 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
I sewed a straight to bias skirt once in an antique satin and it did 
bag out, especially more so over time.


Sylrog


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RE: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-28 Thread Brangwyne

*rotfl* you betcha!!!

Starr

At 09:47 AM 7/28/2007, you wrote:

I find this to be exactly opposite of my gore inserting' experience! If
I start at the hem and work up, then the point always comes out wonky
and ugly. I start at the top and work down, or at least
hem-to-point-to-hem when I'm hand finishing.

Diff'rent strokes, I guess. Or, different stitches for different, er,
seamstresses! :-D

::Linda::



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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-28 Thread E House
I make all my own dress patterns, and I specifically design them so that I 
can sew straight-to-bias on the skirt area whenever possible.  The straight 
edge goes on the front, bias to the back; to my eye, it hangs best that way, 
since the skirt sort of tends to flow out behind you better.  Another 
benefit is that your gown will need little if any hanging before being 
hemmed; I don't even bother any more, since hanging didn't make any visible 
difference even after weeks.  Also, it will make your cutting layouts much 
more efficient!


-E House

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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-28 Thread Kate Pinner
I was told once that when sewing bias, go from widest to narrowest and you 
get the smoothest seams.


Kate
- Original Message - 
From: Linda Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question



I find this to be exactly opposite of my gore inserting' experience! If
I start at the hem and work up, then the point always comes out wonky
and ugly. I start at the top and work down, or at least
hem-to-point-to-hem when I'm hand finishing.

Diff'rent strokes, I guess. Or, different stitches for different, er,
seamstresses! :-D

::Linda::


On Behalf Of Brangwyne
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

The other trick I've found is start at the BOTTOM of the gore and sew
upwards. No matter what. THEN hang the dress for 3 - 7 days and hem.

Works like a dream. Have three gowns done this way for myself and one
for a friend that still haven't 'bagged' out after two years.

Starr

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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-27 Thread Saragrace Knauf
I've always been taught to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a side 
baggyI would definitely NOT hang the bias ones!  

Sg
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Historical Costumemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 2:09 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question


  I am making a linen 4-panel, front/back/sides-gored variation on the Gothic
  Fitted Dress.

  Usually, when I do this, I cut eight gores (4 rectangles cut diagonally) and 
sew
  them in, straight-to-straight and bias-to-bias.

  This time, I cleverly thought If I fold it in quarters first, and then cut,
  I'll have three isosceles triangles and two right triangles.  Fewer seams!  
But
  now that means I'm facing sewing straight-to-bias for at least three of the
  gores, if not all four.  I know that one side effect will be the tendancy of 
the
  fabric to pucker where the bias edge stretches and the straight edge does 
not.  

  I seem to have two choices:

  Do I: hang the gores from the point for a few days to allow the fabric to
  stretch out before sewing them in place (which may or may not prevent 
puckering
  after the fact)?

  Do I: cut each triangle in half so I have my familliar eight gores (six of 
them
  being a little narrower than expected because I didn't factor in seam 
allowance)?

  I assume there will be a difference in drape between the two, I don't know
  whether or not it will be enough of a difference to matter. (Will one way make
  the skirt stand out more?) Has anyone done this? Have you noticed a 
difference?

  Emma
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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-27 Thread Debloughcostumes
 
same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in wear  
/ hanging.
 
do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I  sort 
out by fiddling with the machine tension.
 
 
 
In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Message:  11
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
To: Historical Costume  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type:  text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1

I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a side 
baggyI would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!  

Sg


 



   
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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-27 Thread Brangwyne
Same here, although occasionally I'll hand baste the buggers in first 
eliminating the travel that happens with pinning the seam and then 
sewing with machine.


Starr


At 07:17 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:


same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in wear
/ hanging.

do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I  sort
out by fiddling with the machine tension.



In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Message:  11
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
To: Historical Costume  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type:  text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1

I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a side
baggyI would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!

Sg







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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-27 Thread 00217146

Interesting!  I wonder if the problem I'm thinking of was originally a result of
inexperienced sewing, which I misinterpreted as fabric properties. It's the sort
of thing that I did years and years ago, thought huh, doesn't work and changed
methods.

With three responses that I'm interpreting as go ahead! and none against, I
guess I'll just get sewing!  Thank you!

Emma

Quoting Brangwyne [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Same here, although occasionally I'll hand baste the buggers in first 
 eliminating the travel that happens with pinning the seam and then 
 sewing with machine.
 
 Starr
 
 
 At 07:17 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:
 
 same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh in
 wear
 / hanging.
 
 do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I 
 sort
 out by fiddling with the machine tension.
 
 
 
 In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Message:  11
 Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
 From: Saragrace Knauf  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
 To: Historical Costume  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type:  text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
 
 I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a
 side
 baggyI would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!
 
 Sg
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

2007-07-27 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
I sewed a straight to bias skirt once in an antique satin and it did 
bag out, especially more so over time.


Sylrog

On Jul 27, 2007, at 6:04 PM, Brangwyne wrote:

Same here, although occasionally I'll hand baste the buggers in first 
eliminating the travel that happens with pinning the seam and then 
sewing with machine.


Starr


At 07:17 PM 7/27/2007, you wrote:


same here - the straight stabilises the bias, so it doesn't stretsh 
in wear

/ hanging.

do it all the time in linen, and not had a problem.  any puckering I  
sort

out by fiddling with the machine tension.



In a message dated 28/07/2007 00:10:04 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Message:  11
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:53:12 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore  question
To: Historical Costume  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type:  text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1

I've always been taught  to sew straight to bias.  I've never had a 
side

baggyI would  definitely NOT hang the bias ones!

Sg







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