Re: [Hornlist] Northeast Horn Workshop 2005

2004-10-11 Thread PAUL HOLT
I am very glad that she has been able to do this again. I have missed the 
opportunity to experience the fabulous horn playing I heard during the last 
Northeast horn workshop in Boston! Now, can we get Prof. Pizka to come as 
well.
Please!

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RE: [Hornlist] oil addict

2004-10-11 Thread hans
Thanks for the precise answer.

==

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Herbert Foster
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 5:52 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] oil addict

I repeat:
Yes the rotor/casing can become "addicted" to oil. Technically speaking,
we're
talking about surface chemistry. When the rotor and casing are first wet
with
water, they become hydrophilic: they are wet with water, and reject oil.
When
the rotor and casing are first wet with oil, they become hydrophobic:
they
reject water. Of course any surfactants in the oil have an effect.

If the rotor and casing are wet with oil (addicted), and have not been
lubricated regularly, they start to become hydrophilic, and you can get
an
emulsion of oil and water. You DON'T want an emulsion. Emulsions have
high
viscosity. Consider mayonaise, an oil in water emulsion.

I have no problem with my horn being addicted to oil. I keep giving it
its
"fix," and I have free valves, and the horn is protected from corrosion.

Herb Foster
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>...
> I repeat:
> The valve needs a certain amount of lubrication, which consists of an
> extreme thin (about 4 micron) water (moist) - oil emulsion, which
allows
> free movement and seals the valve body with the valve housing
perfectly.
> The valve housings are made of nickel silver or yellow brass, while
the
> rotors (bodies) are made of yellow brass of different alloy. Normally,
> the two different alloys would move freely without any
lubri(fi)cation,
> but as moist is involved, this oily emulsion also slows down erosion
> (damage).
> 
> It is common knowledge, that synthetic oils work better than natural
> oils due to less foreign contents. It is also common knowledge, that
> excess oil tends to smear corners etc. and thus slowing actions.
> 
> The valves in question are made using high precision machinery &
> perfectly skilled technicians.
> 
> Now the makers statement:(so say customers)
> If the valves are oiled from beginning, they become "oil addict".
> 
> >From my knowledge of physical science, I cannot imagine such.
> 
> Technician confirmation ??
> 
> (By the way, I oil my horn few time, just when I feel it be necessary,
> e.g. that´s after washing the horn through every few weeks, in a
regular
> maintenance procedure, but I use the oil extremely carefully (the
small
> oil bottle lasts for years). All axis are oiled then too.)
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> unsubscribe or set options at
> http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/herb_foster%40yahoo.com
> 




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Re: [Hornlist] Pre WWW1 Kruspe

2004-10-11 Thread Benno Heinemann
Hello,

Coincidentally, a violinist I was working with yesterday told me he owns a
Kruspe compensator from 1913 or thereabouts which he may be prepared to part
with. I haven't seen it yet and know nothing about its condition, but I was
wondering how much such a horn would cost nowadays, and also to what extent
list members think such a horn should be overhauled if it isn't in a very
good state.


Thank you,

Benno


On 11.10.2004 1:28 Uhr, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hello friends~
> Please forgive the cross post.  Recently, I have had the great privilege of
> playing on a pre-WW1 Kruspe. It PLAYS LIKE WARM BUTTER---so DELICIOUS! The
> response is incredible! The man who owns this little jewel knows very little
> about 
> his horn other than his father bought this for him while he was in college
> (25 years ago), and I was wondering if  any of you would be able to share any
> facts about the horn.
> 
> Here is what I know:
> Looks like all original parts
> Valves clean, no leaks--free blowing
> Incredible response and quick valve motion--all registers
> nickel silver
> Info Etched on bell:
> Ed Kruspe
> Erfurt
> DR6M*888990
> Made in Germany
> Modell--Wendler
> Boston-Mass.
> 
> I have looked at the Kruspe web site, and it is helpful, but I am looking for
> even MORE information.  (specifics about when made, by whom, etc...) ANY
> KRUSPE owners out there?  I want to buy this  little gem from him, but wanted
> to 
> get feed back from anyone who may know about Kruspe horns.  THANKS in advance!
> 
> Dee Anne Proctor
> Nashville, Tennessee USA
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Re: [Hornlist] Karl Kohn Encounters II for horn and piano

2004-10-11 Thread Ellen Manthe
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have to play this piece for an American Music concert and was wondering if
> anybody knows of a recording of it. Also, does anyone know the present
> whereabouts of Karl Kohn?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Aleks Ozolins
Karl Kohn contributed Duets Numbers 47 and 48 to the _60 Selected Duets for
Two Horns_ compiled by The Los Angeles Horn Club.  The editor of the volume
was Wendell Hoss, and the book was dedicated to Max Pottag, who was the
driving force behind the establishment of the Los Angeles Horn Club.  Duets
47 and 48 were copyrighted in 1966 by Carl Fischer in New York and were
reprinted by special arrangement with Fischer.  This should give you plenty
of information to start your inquiry about Mr. Kohn.  Good luck.
Ellen

-- 


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[Hornlist] Karl Kohn Encounters II for horn and piano

2004-10-11 Thread Aleks Ozolins
Hello everyone,
I have to play this piece for an American Music concert and was wondering if 
anybody knows of a recording of it. Also, does anyone know the present 
whereabouts of Karl Kohn?

Thanks in advance,
Aleks Ozolins
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[Hornlist] Re: Any comments on The Early Horn : A Practical Guide

2004-10-11 Thread rob
"Steve Freides" Anyone familiar with this book?" Any comments on The Early 
Horn : A Practical Guide" by Humphries 

YES, I read this book in one day. A real rare occurrence for me! Really 
enjoyed it. I highly recommend it. 

Richard Burdick
1st Horn Regina Symphony Orchestra
in Sunny Regina Saskatchewan Canada 

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RE: [Hornlist] oil addict

2004-10-11 Thread Herbert Foster
I repeat:
Yes the rotor/casing can become "addicted" to oil. Technically speaking, we're
talking about surface chemistry. When the rotor and casing are first wet with
water, they become hydrophilic: they are wet with water, and reject oil. When
the rotor and casing are first wet with oil, they become hydrophobic: they
reject water. Of course any surfactants in the oil have an effect.

If the rotor and casing are wet with oil (addicted), and have not been
lubricated regularly, they start to become hydrophilic, and you can get an
emulsion of oil and water. You DON'T want an emulsion. Emulsions have high
viscosity. Consider mayonaise, an oil in water emulsion.

I have no problem with my horn being addicted to oil. I keep giving it its
"fix," and I have free valves, and the horn is protected from corrosion.

Herb Foster
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>...
> I repeat:
> The valve needs a certain amount of lubrication, which consists of an
> extreme thin (about 4 micron) water (moist) - oil emulsion, which allows
> free movement and seals the valve body with the valve housing perfectly.
> The valve housings are made of nickel silver or yellow brass, while the
> rotors (bodies) are made of yellow brass of different alloy. Normally,
> the two different alloys would move freely without any lubri(fi)cation,
> but as moist is involved, this oily emulsion also slows down erosion
> (damage).
> 
> It is common knowledge, that synthetic oils work better than natural
> oils due to less foreign contents. It is also common knowledge, that
> excess oil tends to smear corners etc. and thus slowing actions.
> 
> The valves in question are made using high precision machinery &
> perfectly skilled technicians.
> 
> Now the makers statement:(so say customers)
> If the valves are oiled from beginning, they become "oil addict".
> 
> >From my knowledge of physical science, I cannot imagine such.
> 
> Technician confirmation ??
> 
> (By the way, I oil my horn few time, just when I feel it be necessary,
> e.g. that´s after washing the horn through every few weeks, in a regular
> maintenance procedure, but I use the oil extremely carefully (the small
> oil bottle lasts for years). All axis are oiled then too.)
> 
> ==
> 
> 
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> unsubscribe or set options at
> http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/herb_foster%40yahoo.com
> 




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[Hornlist] Re: High and Low Register

2004-10-11 Thread Stephen Williams
There has been some discussion on this list about low register playing
improving the high register. As someone who has recently returned to
playing the Horn, I have some idea as to what constitutes high and low
register, but I was wondering if there is any accepted standard?

I have recently started playing as part of a small local orchestra. The
current Horn player says she is a low register player and would prefer
to play 2nd. Horn, though she currently plays 1st. Horn. She says she is
comfortable up to high e or f, whereas I feel reasonably comfortable up
to b flat / b above that, but I'm not yet confident enough in other
aspects of my performance to take on the more complex 1st. Horn parts.
We are currently rehearsing Mozart's 23rd Piano Concerto and Haydn's
"Surprise" Symphony. Currently we share the 1st. Horn parts with me
playing 1st. for the Haydn and she playing 1st. on the Mozart. This
works really well, but ultimately I can see that she would like to hand
over the 1st. Horn role.

Most of the music I would like to play is in the higher register (e.g.
Forster), so in any case I would like to develop my higher register
playing. Any comments and advice would be welcome. However, I take it as
read that "practice" and "practice some more" is always good advice!





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