Re: [Hornlist] lull in postings

2005-06-14 Thread V�lim�ki

Hello,

The best one I've heard is Goldie Horn...

Jaakko Välimäki
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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[Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread Tom Spillman
I have ordered a new horn (a Yamaha 667).  It should be delivered later 
this week.

What do I need to do to get it set up?  All of the horns I've been 
involved with, including the one I have now, were already playable by 
the time I got my hands on them.  I assume I'll have to tune it, oil the 
valves, and check the slides for grease, and check it's playability in 
the various registers.  Is there anything else I should do?

There was a special where I ordered the horn of including the Yamaha 
Silent Practice system at the same price.  I found it appealing since 
from time to time I go places where I feel a little inhibited about 
practicing.  That doesn't stop me, but I like the idea about not 
disturbing others while still getting my practice in.  Does anyone have 
experience with this system?

Any information will be appreciated...

Thanks...

Tom

-- 

Thomas M. Spillman, Jr.

Asst. Professor (retired)
Information Technology
MBA Program
School of Management
St. Edward's University
Austin, TX

(home) 512-267-4393


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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread Nicholas Hartman Hartman
I have not personally had experience with Silent
Brass, but my teacher, Roy Schaberg, has. Apparently,
he seriously hurt himself once using it. I have no
idea about the details, but the impression I received
was that it creates an excessive amount of back
pressure. It sounds like every horn player's best
friend, but be careful. 

   Nick

--- Tom Spillman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I have ordered a new horn (a Yamaha 667).  It should
 be delivered later 
 this week.
 
 What do I need to do to get it set up?  All of the
 horns I've been 
 involved with, including the one I have now, were
 already playable by 
 the time I got my hands on them.  I assume I'll have
 to tune it, oil the 
 valves, and check the slides for grease, and check
 it's playability in 
 the various registers.  Is there anything else I
 should do?
 
 There was a special where I ordered the horn of
 including the Yamaha 
 Silent Practice system at the same price.  I found
 it appealing since 
 from time to time I go places where I feel a little
 inhibited about 
 practicing.  That doesn't stop me, but I like the
 idea about not 
 disturbing others while still getting my practice
 in.  Does anyone have 
 experience with this system?
 
 Any information will be appreciated...
 
 Thanks...
 
 Tom
 
 -- 
 
 Thomas M. Spillman, Jr.
 
 Asst. Professor (retired)
 Information Technology
 MBA Program
 School of Management
 St. Edward's University
 Austin, TX
 
 (home) 512-267-4393
 
 
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread christine williamson
Hi Tom,
Congratulations! I played on a Yammy 667 for many years and loved it. 

Just be certain to oil the valves thoroughly before you actually play it for 
the first time and then oil it frequently as Yamaha valves are usually very 
very snug. Once when I went away on holidays for 3 weeks it took a lot of 
patient coaxing and lots of oil when I got back to get any of the valves to 
move at all. That was a lesson well learned, I can tell you!

Happy playing :)
Chris
 



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[Hornlist] Ganter web page

2005-06-14 Thread Klaus Bjerre
I have, with no success, tried to google my way through to the Ganter of
Munich web page.

Is the company defunct by now?

Klaus

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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Bill Gross
Just out of personal curiosity, why did it take so long for spit valves to
be incorporated in Horn design?  


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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread Hans
Dont drop it ! Good luck !
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tom Spillman
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 11:29 AM
To: Yahoo horn list; Hornlist
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

I have ordered a new horn (a Yamaha 667).  It should be
delivered later this week.

What do I need to do to get it set up?  All of the horns
I've been involved with, including the one I have now, were
already playable by the time I got my hands on them.  I
assume I'll have to tune it, oil the valves, and check the
slides for grease, and check it's playability in the various
registers.  Is there anything else I should do?

There was a special where I ordered the horn of including
the Yamaha Silent Practice system at the same price.  I
found it appealing since from time to time I go places where
I feel a little inhibited about practicing.  That doesn't
stop me, but I like the idea about not disturbing others
while still getting my practice in.  Does anyone have
experience with this system?

Any information will be appreciated...

Thanks...

Tom

-- 

Thomas M. Spillman, Jr.

Asst. Professor (retired)
Information Technology
MBA Program
School of Management
St. Edward's University
Austin, TX

(home) 512-267-4393


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Re: [Hornlist] Ganter web page

2005-06-14 Thread Hans
Ganter is not working since he retired more than ten years
ago. He sold the company, but the new company has gone
bancrupt. 

Greetings 

Hans

PS: My horns (Pizka Classic) are made in his tradition.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Klaus Bjerre
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 12:51 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: [Hornlist] Ganter web page

I have, with no success, tried to google my way through to
the Ganter of Munich web page.

Is the company defunct by now?

Klaus

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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Hans
Because of the prejudice of the horn players !!
Still now in place !
=== 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Gross
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 1:26 PM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

Just out of personal curiosity, why did it take so long for
spit valves to be incorporated in Horn design?  


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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Alan Cole
There's no reason for it.  It's just policy.

--- or, in the alternative ---

Tradition.

-- Alan Cole, rank amateur
McLean (Fairfax County), Virginia, USA.
  ~~
Just out of personal curiosity, why did it take so long for spit valves to 
be incorporated in Horn design?


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[Hornlist] Atkinson Horns

2005-06-14 Thread Bill Gross
I would appreciate an off list reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED] from anyone with
knowledge of or experience with Atkinson Horns in California.  


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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Bill Gross
Thank you; there are volumes in that short answer.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hans
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 7:34 AM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

Because of the prejudice of the horn players !!
Still now in place !
=== 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Gross
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 1:26 PM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

Just out of personal curiosity, why did it take so long for
spit valves to be incorporated in Horn design?  


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Re: [Hornlist] Stupid Brass Tricks

2005-06-14 Thread Valkhorn
 
I'm not sure if these have been mentioned:
 
- Playing super pedal notes by inserting the entire mouthpiece attached to  
the leadpipe into your mouth and placing it on the inside of your right cheek  
while blowing. (Yes this produces extremely low 'notes')
 
-Playing with your tounge sticking out so that the upper half of the  
mouthpiece rests on your lips while the other rests on your tounge. Yes, it's  
almost 
possible to play this way, and it feels funny.
 
-If you have a water key, open it while playing. You'll be able to quickly  
create a dirt bike effect.
 
-Whistle while playing. You basically whistle through the horn. I  can 
actually do this for some reason.
 
-If you sing through your horn and wiggle the valves a lot you can do a  fake 
Flight of the Bumble Bee.
 
-If you take your hand out of the bell and try to play a high C, or lip  
around there, you can make a really horrific sounding police siren.
 
-William
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/13/2005 2:12:38 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Horn  trashing (very extreme) - but reserved for
Dr.Prof.ScheissHornGestopft  exclusively.

Clapping on the mouthpiece hard (take care not to bend  the
lead pipe)

Clapping on the bell

Playing flutter noise  with tuning slide removed (very
effective ! And terribly loud  !)

Ripping accross the valve slides with thumbnail like  a
guitarrist

Producing stopped notes with valve slide just inserted  into
place with one shank only (does not work on all  models;
preferreable works with third F-slide  - see Twilight  of
gods 4rth horn  doo-tweauh-dah-dot-duit-duit )

Inserting  mouthpiece into protruding tongue  sneak tongue
away when slurring  (more visual effect than musical)

Slide mouthpiece (starting with the  slur on left edge of
lips  while slurring upwards slide to the right  edge of
lips; slurring downwards use opposite  movement)

Etc

Etc.



-Original  Message-
From:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  On
Behalf Of Alan Cole
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 7:13 PM
To:  horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Stupid Brass  Tricks

Double-tonguing.

Triple-tonguing.

Doodle-tonguing.

Flutter-tonguing.

Growling.

Double-stopping.

Circular  breathing.

Note-bending.

Half-valving.

Any others that I  don't know about?

-- Alan Cole, rank amateur
McLean  (Fairfax County), Virginia, USA.




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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Howard Sanner
Paul Navarro writes:
 
 I prefer the Amado keys to any lever type key.

I wonder why this is so?



He also states:
 
 It is also possible to drill a hole through the middle of   the piston of the 
 Amado water key and thread a string through it to use with your left hand 
 thumb- just like the Holton water keys.

How do you do this? Do you drill through the surface on which 
you push to open the spit valve, all the way through to the 
back side? Do you drill 90 degrees to this surface? If the 
former, doesn't the valve leak when it's closed? The hole through 
which the string passes would also open into the passage through 
which water flows. So it seems like it would cause a leak.

Thanks very much.

Howard Sanner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Howard Sanner
Walter Lawson writes:
 
 Take a piece of brass or nickel silver rod and grind a taper on it so  it 
 forms a plug in the hole.

Doesn't the taper form a bump in the leadpipe that would 
affect how the horn plays? I'm trying to figure out how to make a 
tapered plug that would follow the inner contours of the 
leadpipe. Or maybe slight variations in the leadpipe aren't as 
important as I think.

Thanks.

Howard Sanner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Hans
Piston is not equal piston. He named it piston  meant the
push-button-top of the piston. But you might try to drill
through the entire piston  wonder the effect it does to the
horn. Anyway, if a spitvalve is attached, the female part
is attached first. When in place, the hole is drilled
through the wall of the tube below the female part. After
the (holding) bridge is attached to the tube, the male part
of the spitvalve is set into place.

== 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Howard Sanner
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 9:23 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

Paul Navarro writes:
 
 I prefer the Amado keys to any lever type key.

I wonder why this is so?



He also states:
 
 It is also possible to drill a hole through the middle of
the piston of the 
 Amado water key and thread a string through it to use with
your left 
 hand
 thumb- just like the Holton water keys.

How do you do this? Do you drill through the surface
on which you push to open the spit valve, all the way
through to the back side? Do you drill 90 degrees to this
surface? If the former, doesn't the valve leak when it's
closed? The hole through which the string passes would also
open into the passage through which water flows. So it seems
like it would cause a leak.

Thanks very much.

Howard Sanner

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Billbamberg
I use a slight variant on Waters technique because my solderin experience comes 
from furnace brazing.  My hand dexterity isn't as good as someone as skilled as 
Walter, so I tend to rely on fixturing to hod things together.  One of the big 
dangers inWalters
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 3:23:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 How do you do this?
 

Hi Howard,
The hole for   the string is drilled through the middle of the length of the 
push /piston and is smaller than the smallest diameter of the push /piston, 
therefore no leak occurs at any time.
   Here is a poorly done diagram of the inside   push/piston   withthe hole 
for the string drilled in it.
It was done with my computer keyboard, so it is a general idea .  
   __ 
  __
   _I  I___I  
I
   I  
   I
   I__I-
   ___ Hole drilled for 
string
   Iinside push/piston
   I
   I_    
I
 I_I   ^   II
   I   
cut out section 
for water to exit
  
I hope this helps explain where the hole goes, and why there is no leak.
I prefer Amado water keys because I believe there is less   acoustical 
interference with them.
This is a highly personal opinion and one which has little basis in fact, 
unless you talk to the Amado people and many trumpet players .
I also prefer the smaller hole in the leadpipe, but I am sure that there are 
just as many players or repair people who believe that there is no difference.
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 3:23:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 How do you do this
 

Howard, as I expected might happen, when I sent the posting, the formatting 
was moved by AOL and the lines came out in the wrong places.
I hope you can get the general idea though.
There is no hole through the amado key plunger for the water to exit .
There is a short lathed out section around the center of the plunger for the 
water to exit which leaves a solid center though   what I call the push/piston 
. The string hole is drilled through this solid section.
Paul
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 3:23:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 How do you do this?
 
Howard,

If this diagram and explanation doesn't make sense, send me your phone # and 
I will fax you a drawing of it.
Paul
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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Billbamberg
Whoops, see what I mean about my hand coordination.

I use a slight variant on Waters technique because my solderin experience comes 
from furnace brazing.  My hand dexterity isn't as good as someone as skilled as 
Walter, so I tend to rely on fixturing to hod things together.  One of the big 
dangers in Walter's method is the extreme heat needed to work braze material, 
and the thinness of the patch and surrounding tubing.  I fit the plug by 
rotating it in the hole with a thin sandpaper cone.  I the twist the taper plug 
into the hole in a tight fit.  I then trace around the plug with a very fine 
tip marker.  I can then sand the tip of the taper to match the inside surface 
of the tube, by eye, using a small sanding drum.  With a deburring tool, I very 
slightly chamfer the outside edge of the hole, not to enlarge the hole at the 
bottom, but to create a very slight gap to suck the braze material into the 
slot.  Not knowing to do this is by far the greatest cause of problems in 
brazing.

The brazing materials available from repair sources is very limited.  
Commercial suppliers have materials in all different sizes.  Once I have my 
taper cleaned, fitted, and fluxed, I assemble every thing with simple holders 
on a hearth that will take the heat.  For a simple ring braze, like this, I 
make a single coil of braze wire, about .010 diameter, that fits snugly around 
the taper plg and right above the chamfer.  Because the plug is fairly massive, 
I can apply a lot of heat, and let conduction heat the braze material and thin 
tubing.  You should be rewarded by seeing the ring melt, and the braze material 
suck into the chamfer, filling it perfectly.  To cut the taper off, I make a 
hole the diameter of the taper in a scrap of stainless shim stock, and cut it 
off with a jewelers saw.  It's then an easy job to file and sand the patch to 
match the contour of the tube.  If you made the chamfer carefully, all that 
will show is a very thin, uniform ring of braze material.  The
  only people likely to notice it will be other repairmen marveling at the 
workmanship.

What I've discovered is that with a little practice, very large patches can be 
made this way.



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[Hornlist] Stupid Brass Tricks

2005-06-14 Thread James Ray Crenshaw
 Double-tonguing
 Any others that I don't know about?

Did anyone mention the weird split-note High-C overtone that can be
achieved on some (most?) Kruspe wrap horns? Every Holton Farkas model I've
ever played will do it, and so will every Conn 8D I've sampled. Some horns
that don't do it all that well can STILL do it. Here's the deal:


***
Play a written 3rd-space C on a Holton, then begin to slowly depress
the 1st-valve 'til the pitch splits, and the octave-higher C
overtone becomes louder than the C you're playing.

***


You can tune the effect by twiddling with your oral cavity... but not in
public, please.

jrc

PS: I've found that my Lawson Fourier has several more of these type
1/2-valve split notes on it, but none of them are as strong as the
above-mentioned Holton/Conn 8D version of 3rd space C. Done right, it
sounds eerily like a stopped high-C.
~r

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Re: [Hornlist] Stupid Brass Tricks

2005-06-14 Thread Hans
How about the echo with 1/4-pressed first valve ? Works
superbly for the Long Call last (written) e2 echo, but - but
on Viennese Pumpenhorn.

Or, high c3 on the Wagnertuba, - with use of water key.

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Ray Crenshaw
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 3:23 AM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Stupid Brass Tricks

 Double-tonguing
 Any others that I don't know about?

Did anyone mention the weird split-note High-C overtone
that can be achieved on some (most?) Kruspe wrap horns?
Every Holton Farkas model I've ever played will do it, and
so will every Conn 8D I've sampled. Some horns that don't do
it all that well can STILL do it. Here's the deal:


***
Play a written 3rd-space C on a Holton, then begin to slowly
depress the 1st-valve 'til the pitch splits, and the
octave-higher C
overtone becomes louder than the C you're playing.

***


You can tune the effect by twiddling with your oral
cavity... but not in public, please.

jrc

PS: I've found that my Lawson Fourier has several more of
these type 1/2-valve split notes on it, but none of them
are as strong as the above-mentioned Holton/Conn 8D version
of 3rd space C. Done right, it sounds eerily like a
stopped high-C.
~r

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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread Aleks Ozolins
I'm sorry I caused suck a spit valve ruckus.

Aleks
NYC

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Re: [Hornlist] For the repairpeople

2005-06-14 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 6/14/05 11:39:32 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 I'm sorry I caused suck a spit valve ruckus.
 
 

Aleks,
Don't be sorry, that's what we are here for !
Paul
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