RE: [Hornlist] Re: start off on an F horn?

2006-03-05 Thread Hans.Pizka
Why still keeping these junk horns or horn ruins ? Convert
them to lamps instead playing them.

There are no really bad horns, but a majority of weak
players. Their weakness starts with their negligence to
principles of playing  maintaining their instruments or
setting them in proper playing conditions.

Why are they out of tune many times ? Because the valve
slides are not set properly but shoved in as much as
possible. Why are they too sharp  too pinchy in tone ?
Because the player use a very thin bore mouth piece as they
have their problems with notes exceeding written e2 or f2.
How to help ? Using a regular mouth piece with a 4.3 - 5 mms
bore, not forcing the high register, not playing loud all
the time. Gaining high register by playing low notes right.

Why is the attack so difficult ? Because players croach into
the mouthpiece with their upper AND lower lip so to block
the hole in the middle. Understood. Then they have to push a
lot of air  very hard, to open the HOLE in the middle. This
results in the PLOP at the beginning of the sound they
produce  name tone, but it is rather a fart (in the
positive sense, as it is produced in a similar way).

And the attack becomes more difficult, if the players use
trumpetlike rims on their mouthpieces instead of smaller
rims, which hurt if the pressure exceeds the normal
pressure. Why do they press too much ? Because they do not
practise enough or in improper way. They often practise
things they do not need as they work anyway. So they waste
time  embouchure strength, much needed to practice things
they cannot do well yet. It is a brain matter. But they like
to please themselves by playing the same things again 
again, which they can do well anyway.

If any player, good or less good, advanced or beginner,
tries to explore the horn first with the natural harmonics
playing softly, and listen where the pitches are  how they
are, if they try first to play soft  slow things to get
used to the instrument, they can play in a decent manner on
ANY horn. Well, leakness is another matter, a technical
matter, which cannot be calculated here. I speak about ANY
horn in a decent condition.


===



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 5:08 AM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: start off on an F horn? 

In a message dated 3/4/06 1:00:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Bill Gross writes:


 Not sure of your point here.  The implication is that if
not all F 
 horns are good, B flat horns might be.  Could you clarify
it?
 

Nope, just that there are a lot of crummy F horns out
there that even Hans couldn't play, well maybe HE could but
nobody else could.  Get a good F horn and make music!

- Steve Mumford
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RE: [Hornlist] Re: start off on an F horn?

2006-03-05 Thread Bill Gross
Question for Hans regarding bad horns, it was common knowledge that a
batch of Sansone horns would probably meet the criteria of bad horn.
Supposedly these horns were mass produced for the US military in the 1940s.
Is this just a horn urban legend?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Hans.Pizka
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 3:34 AM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Re: start off on an F horn? 

Why still keeping these junk horns or horn ruins ? Convert
them to lamps instead playing them.

There are no really bad horns, but a majority of weak
players. Their weakness starts with their negligence to
principles of playing  maintaining their instruments or
setting them in proper playing conditions.

Why are they out of tune many times ? Because the valve
slides are not set properly but shoved in as much as
possible. Why are they too sharp  too pinchy in tone ?
Because the player use a very thin bore mouth piece as they
have their problems with notes exceeding written e2 or f2.
How to help ? Using a regular mouth piece with a 4.3 - 5 mms
bore, not forcing the high register, not playing loud all
the time. Gaining high register by playing low notes right.

Why is the attack so difficult ? Because players croach into
the mouthpiece with their upper AND lower lip so to block
the hole in the middle. Understood. Then they have to push a
lot of air  very hard, to open the HOLE in the middle. This
results in the PLOP at the beginning of the sound they
produce  name tone, but it is rather a fart (in the
positive sense, as it is produced in a similar way).

And the attack becomes more difficult, if the players use
trumpetlike rims on their mouthpieces instead of smaller
rims, which hurt if the pressure exceeds the normal
pressure. Why do they press too much ? Because they do not
practise enough or in improper way. They often practise
things they do not need as they work anyway. So they waste
time  embouchure strength, much needed to practice things
they cannot do well yet. It is a brain matter. But they like
to please themselves by playing the same things again 
again, which they can do well anyway.

If any player, good or less good, advanced or beginner,
tries to explore the horn first with the natural harmonics
playing softly, and listen where the pitches are  how they
are, if they try first to play soft  slow things to get
used to the instrument, they can play in a decent manner on
ANY horn. Well, leakness is another matter, a technical
matter, which cannot be calculated here. I speak about ANY
horn in a decent condition.


===



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 5:08 AM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: start off on an F horn? 

In a message dated 3/4/06 1:00:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Bill Gross writes:


 Not sure of your point here.  The implication is that if
not all F 
 horns are good, B flat horns might be.  Could you clarify
it?
 

Nope, just that there are a lot of crummy F horns out
there that even Hans couldn't play, well maybe HE could but
nobody else could.  Get a good F horn and make music!

- Steve Mumford
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[Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup

2006-03-05 Thread Jeremy Hansen
Hi gang.

For the sake of those in the market to try out horns, let's put our heads
together on a list of retailers with a decent stock of instruments. Let's
limit these to stores with actual stock of quality instruments. Eventually I
will put these on a map.

I'll go first:

Osmun Music, Arlington MA
Woodwind/Brasswind, South Bend IN
Wichita Band Instruments, Wichita KS

Anyone else?


Jeremy Hansen



---
Jeremy C. Hansen
Assistant Professor of Horn and Theory
Eastern Illinois University
600 Lincoln Ave.
Charleston, Illinois 61944


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RE: [Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup

2006-03-05 Thread Steve Freides
I think you have to at least mention Dillon Music in Woodbridge, NJ.  I
don't know about their stock of new instruments but they have quite the
collection of used brass instruments.

-S- 

 -Original Message-
 From: 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 du] On Behalf Of Jeremy Hansen
 Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 10:05 AM
 To: horn@music.memphis.edu
 Subject: [Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup
 
 Hi gang.
 
 For the sake of those in the market to try out horns, let's 
 put our heads together on a list of retailers with a decent 
 stock of instruments. Let's limit these to stores with actual 
 stock of quality instruments. Eventually I will put these on a map.
 
 I'll go first:
 
 Osmun Music, Arlington MA
 Woodwind/Brasswind, South Bend IN
 Wichita Band Instruments, Wichita KS
 
 Anyone else?
 
 
 Jeremy Hansen
 
 
 
 ---
 Jeremy C. Hansen
 Assistant Professor of Horn and Theory
 Eastern Illinois University
 600 Lincoln Ave.
 Charleston, Illinois 61944
 
 
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[Hornlist] Please no lamps!(Was: start off on an F horn?)

2006-03-05 Thread Klaus Bjerre
--- Hans.Pizka [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Why still keeping these junk horns or horn ruins ? Convert
 them to lamps instead playing them.
 
 There are no really bad horns, but a majority of weak
 players. Their weakness starts with their negligence to
 principles of playing  maintaining their instruments or
 setting them in proper playing conditions.
 
 Why are they out of tune many times ? Because the valve
 slides are not set properly but shoved in as much as
 possible. Why are they too sharp  too pinchy in tone ?
 Because the player use a very thin bore mouth piece as they
 have their problems with notes exceeding written e2 or f2.
 How to help ? Using a regular mouth piece with a 4.3 - 5 mms
 bore, not forcing the high register, not playing loud all
 the time. Gaining high register by playing low notes right.
 
 Why is the attack so difficult ? Because players croach into
 the mouthpiece with their upper AND lower lip so to block
 the hole in the middle. Understood. Then they have to push a
 lot of air  very hard, to open the HOLE in the middle. This
 results in the PLOP at the beginning of the sound they
 produce  name tone, but it is rather a fart (in the
 positive sense, as it is produced in a similar way).
 
 And the attack becomes more difficult, if the players use
 trumpetlike rims on their mouthpieces instead of smaller
 rims, which hurt if the pressure exceeds the normal
 pressure. Why do they press too much ? Because they do not
 practise enough or in improper way. They often practise
 things they do not need as they work anyway. So they waste
 time  embouchure strength, much needed to practice things
 they cannot do well yet. It is a brain matter. But they like
 to please themselves by playing the same things again 
 again, which they can do well anyway.
 
 If any player, good or less good, advanced or beginner,
 tries to explore the horn first with the natural harmonics
 playing softly, and listen where the pitches are  how they
 are, if they try first to play soft  slow things to get
 used to the instrument, they can play in a decent manner on
 ANY horn. Well, leakness is another matter, a technical
 matter, which cannot be calculated here. I speak about ANY
 horn in a decent condition.
 
 
 ===
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
 Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 5:08 AM
 To: horn@music.memphis.edu
 Subject: [Hornlist] Re: start off on an F horn? 
 
 In a message dated 3/4/06 1:00:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
 Bill Gross writes:
 
 
  Not sure of your point here.  The implication is that if
 not all F 
  horns are good, B flat horns might be.  Could you clarify
 it?
  
 
 Nope, just that there are a lot of crummy F horns out
 there that even Hans couldn't play, well maybe HE could but
 nobody else could.  Get a good F horn and make music!
 
 - Steve Mumford
 ___
 post: horn@music.memphis.edu
 unsubscribe or set options at
 http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/hans%40pizka.
 de
 
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[Hornlist] Green-horn Questions

2006-03-05 Thread Seth Urbach
Hello all,
  
 I am trying to pick up playing the horn again  after being in college for 4 
years. I played for 5 years, in middle and  high school, but I am still kind of 
a greenhorn ( pardon the pun ;) I  was hoping someone could answer a couple 
of questions I have. 
  
  First, I never learned any of the science behind picking a mouthpiece.  Does 
anyone know of a good website or other resource where I can learn  the types, 
differences, benefits, and pitfalls of horn mouthpieces? I  have always just 
played with the mouthpiece that came with the horn the  school loaned me. I 
would like to know what makes mouthpieces different  from each other.
  
  Second, a local shop has found a used double horn for me that I am thinking 
of getting. It is a Getzen Elkhorn, Serial Number 02767, 
  It has:
157, 158, 159 stamped on the valves and valve caps
  56 stamped on the Bb valve and valve cap
  56 stamped on the keys
  I do not know what these numbers are for, maybe replacement part numbers?
  Something unique about it, I thought, was that all of the rotors have  
mechanical linkage to the keys; there are no strings for rotating the  valves.
  It is a Kruspe style wrap horn.
  It comes with a Reynolds-Pottag Model 6A Mouthpiece.

  It has dents and lacquer missing, but plays fine, to the store's and my  
knowledge. Does anyone have any comments to make on such a horn?

  Third,  I am hoping to play with my church worship band. I live in Oregon. 
Does  anyone know of a good resource for finding Worship Sheet Music? Will I  
most likely need to transpose from another instrument for a majority of  songs?
  
  
  Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide me.
  
  Seth Urbach
  

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Re: [Hornlist] Green-horn Questions

2006-03-05 Thread Alan Cole
Be careful of those Blessing-Getzen compensating double horns -- the ones 
that look like this:


http://i16.ebayimg.com/04/i/06/5e/d5/b1_1_b.JPG

They might be perfectly fine horns -- if you could grip them comfortably 
with the left hand.  But the way the tubes radiate out of the 
thumb-operated change valve prevents the player's left thumb from going as 
far forward as it needs to for comfort.


When I tried playing 1 of those some years back I had to hold my left thumb 
back so far, with just the ball of the thumb on the valve lever, that I 
declared that model of horn unplayable.  Too bad.  Those horns might be 
perfectly fine -- acoustically -- as far as intonation, sound quality,  
all those other things are concerned.  But if you can't hold 1 comfortably 
in playing position, then all those other factors go for naught.


Try the horn for yourself.  If you can hold it comfortably, then maybe you 
might be able to play it OK  find out on the basis of your own experience 
whether it sounds good, plays in tune, responds well, has nice resistance 
(not too much, not too little), etc.


Or, if you really like how the horn plays  still have trouble with that 
problem of a seriously uncomfortable left-hand position on the horn, maybe 
a duck foot or palm-strap or some helpful accessory like that would remedy 
the problem, I don't know.  However that may be, there are so many 
good-playing  comfortable horns out there -- full doubles  compensating 
doubles -- that I don't even bother with Blessing-Getzen compensating horns 
 other similar instruments I have discovered to be unplayable.


-- Alan Cole, rank amateur
   McLean (Fairfax County), Virginia, USA.
 ~
Second, a local shop has found a used double horn for me that I am thinking 
of getting. It is a Getzen Elkhorn, Serial Number 02767,

  It has:
157, 158, 159 stamped on the valves and valve caps
  56 stamped on the Bb valve and valve cap
  56 stamped on the keys
  I do not know what these numbers are for, maybe replacement part numbers?
  Something unique about it, I thought, was that all of the rotors 
have  mechanical linkage to the keys; there are no strings for rotating 
the  valves.

  It is a Kruspe style wrap horn.
  It comes with a Reynolds-Pottag Model 6A Mouthpiece.

  It has dents and lacquer missing, but plays fine, to the store's and 
my  knowledge. Does anyone have any comments to make on such a horn?





--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.2/274 - Release Date: 3/3/2006


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Re: [Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup

2006-03-05 Thread Jerryold99
 
In a message dated 3/5/2006 9:05:33 AM Central Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Osmun  Music, Arlington MA
Woodwind/Brasswind, South Bend IN
Wichita Band  Instruments, Wichita KS



Patterson Hornworks, Las Cruces, NM
Pope Instrument Repair, JP, MA
BrassArts Unlimited, Baltimore, MD
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Re: [Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup

2006-03-05 Thread Jonell Lindholm

Baltimore Brass, Catonsville, MD

--

Jonell Lindholm
Reisterstown MD USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup




In a message dated 3/5/2006 9:05:33 AM Central Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Osmun  Music, Arlington MA
Woodwind/Brasswind, South Bend IN
Wichita Band  Instruments, Wichita KS



Patterson Hornworks, Las Cruces, NM
Pope Instrument Repair, JP, MA
BrassArts Unlimited, Baltimore, MD
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Re: [Hornlist] Green-horn Questions

2006-03-05 Thread Fred Baucom

Hi Seth,

Since you are just getting into mouthpieces, a good place to start is the 
first chapter of Philip Farkas' book, The Art of French Horn Playing. 
This book is a gold mine of basic information about all facets related to 
horn.  Retails for $15.  In fact, this is your lucky day - the 'excerpt' 
provided on Amazon for this book is the mouthpiece chapter:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0874870216/ref=sib_dp_pt/103-0667743-2244626#reader-link

This is a bit technical, but an excellent resource: 
http://www.lawsonhorns.com/mouthpieces.htm


Fred

- Original Message - 
From: Seth Urbach [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 8:43 AM
Subject: [Hornlist] Green-horn Questions



Hello all,

I am trying to pick up playing the horn again  after being in college for 
4 years. I played for 5 years, in middle and  high school, but I am still 
kind of a greenhorn ( pardon the pun ;) I  was hoping someone could 
answer a couple of questions I have.


 First, I never learned any of the science behind picking a mouthpiece. 
Does anyone know of a good website or other resource where I can learn 
the types, differences, benefits, and pitfalls of horn mouthpieces? I 
have always just played with the mouthpiece that came with the horn the 
school loaned me. I would like to know what makes mouthpieces different 
from each other.


 Second, a local shop has found a used double horn for me that I am 
thinking of getting. It is a Getzen Elkhorn, Serial Number 02767,

 It has:
157, 158, 159 stamped on the valves and valve caps
 56 stamped on the Bb valve and valve cap
 56 stamped on the keys
 I do not know what these numbers are for, maybe replacement part numbers?
 Something unique about it, I thought, was that all of the rotors have 
mechanical linkage to the keys; there are no strings for rotating the 
valves.

 It is a Kruspe style wrap horn.
 It comes with a Reynolds-Pottag Model 6A Mouthpiece.

 It has dents and lacquer missing, but plays fine, to the store's and my 
knowledge. Does anyone have any comments to make on such a horn?


 Third,  I am hoping to play with my church worship band. I live in 
Oregon. Does  anyone know of a good resource for finding Worship Sheet 
Music? Will I  most likely need to transpose from another instrument for a 
majority of  songs?



 Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide me.

 Seth Urbach


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Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

2006-03-05 Thread Chris Tedesco
A nice warm up and warm down.  

Chris

(Chopsaver may help too)


--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does anyone know an aid or cure for lips stiffening up between practice  
 sessions, rehearsals, etc.
  
 Thanks,
 Ron
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RE: [Hornlist] Good F horns.

2006-03-05 Thread Chris Tedesco
Check their Non-US sites.  It's up somewhere, you just have to dig a little.

Chris

--- Steve Freides [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Didn't Yamaha make a Vienna horn?  A quick look on their site didn't find it
 for me now but I recall reading about it somewhere.  Don't know what the
 price was, either.
 
 I know a Vienna horn does not equal a more standard single F horn but ...
 
 -S- 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  du] On Behalf Of WIlliam Botte
  Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 2:53 PM
  To: horn@music.memphis.edu
  Subject: [Hornlist] Good F horns.
  
  Mr. Mumford asks a good question.  The lack of good, or, even 
  more precise; Why the lack of quality, professional grade F horns.
  The Brasswinds catalogue lists many student model F horns, 
  yet no Pro F horns.  They may also sell the 3/4 wrap kiddee 
  horns, excellent for marching band, god forbid, I pitched the 
  catalogue?
  A reasonably priced, around $2,ooo.oo, pro grade F horn would 
  a reasonable investment for a students first horn.  If not 
  damaged and maintained properly, the resale could help 
  finance the purchase of a pro double when the student needs 
  to move on.
  Notice I said, needs.  Today and tomorrow, our orchestra is 
  performing Tchaikowskis fiddle concerto, Finlandia and other 
  less exciting pieces.  
  The horn parts could easily be performed on F horns.
  If real quality, well slotted intervals, unstuffy F horns 
  were available the need for expensive doubles could avoided.
  --wabotte
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Re: [Hornlist] Horn retailer roundup

2006-03-05 Thread YATESLAWRENCE
do you mean just shops in America?
 
Paxman's in London have lots of horns.
 
Cheers,
 
Lawrence
 
þaes  ofereode - þisses swa maeg

_http://lawrenceyates.co.uk_ (http://lawrenceyates.co.uk/) 
Dulcian  Wind Quintet: _http://dulcianwind.co.uk_ (http://dulcianwind.co.uk/) 






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RE: [Hornlist] Green-horn Questions

2006-03-05 Thread Hans.Pizka
Hello Seth, the numbers have the unique purpose to remind
you which cap to screw on which valve. If there is a
mechanical linkage (like uniball), there is no need for
strings.

= 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Seth Urbach
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 5:44 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Green-horn Questions

Hello all,
  
 I am trying to pick up playing the horn again  after being
in college for 4 years. I played for 5 years, in middle and
high school, but I am still kind of a greenhorn ( pardon
the pun ;) I  was hoping someone could answer a couple of
questions I have. 
  
  First, I never learned any of the science behind picking a
mouthpiece.  Does anyone know of a good website or other
resource where I can learn  the types, differences,
benefits, and pitfalls of horn mouthpieces? I  have always
just played with the mouthpiece that came with the horn the
school loaned me. I would like to know what makes
mouthpieces different  from each other.
  
  Second, a local shop has found a used double horn for me
that I am thinking of getting. It is a Getzen Elkhorn,
Serial Number 02767,
  It has:
157, 158, 159 stamped on the valves and valve caps
  56 stamped on the Bb valve and valve cap
  56 stamped on the keys
  I do not know what these numbers are for, maybe
replacement part numbers?
  Something unique about it, I thought, was that all of the
rotors have  mechanical linkage to the keys; there are no
strings for rotating the  valves.
  It is a Kruspe style wrap horn.
  It comes with a Reynolds-Pottag Model 6A Mouthpiece.

  It has dents and lacquer missing, but plays fine, to the
store's and my  knowledge. Does anyone have any comments to
make on such a horn?

  Third,  I am hoping to play with my church worship band. I
live in Oregon. Does  anyone know of a good resource for
finding Worship Sheet Music? Will I  most likely need to
transpose from another instrument for a majority of  songs?
  
  
  Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide
me.
  
  Seth Urbach
  

-
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Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail  makes sharing a breeze.

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[Hornlist] Re: Green-horn Questions

2006-03-05 Thread MUMFORDHornworks
As far as I know, Getzen never sold a Kruspe style horn but there was one 
that looked just like a Conn 6D, you should be able to find a picture of a 6D 
on eBay.  The other model was a compensating horn.  Both were made in Italy 
and imported by Getzen (and others).  They are spectacularly mediochre if not 
leaking.  Definitely get somebody who can really play to try it before you buy. 
 You could be buying a gurantee that you will have no talent.

- Steve Mumford

 Second, a local shop has found a used double horn for me that I am thinking 
 of getting. It is a Getzen Elkhorn, Serial Number 02767, 
   It has:
 157, 158, 159 stamped on the valves and valve caps
   56 stamped on the Bb valve and valve cap
   56 stamped on the keys
 It is a Kruspe style wrap horn


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Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

2006-03-05 Thread MARKSUERON
what is chopsaver?
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Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

2006-03-05 Thread Luke Zyla
Chopsaver is a brand of lip balm that is fantastic for your chops.  Check 
out the web site:  www.chopsaver.com


Luke Zyla
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips



what is chopsaver?
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RE: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

2006-03-05 Thread Hans.Pizka
Usually the assistant, haha, if used right !!!
== 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 8:18 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

what is chopsaver?
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RE: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

2006-03-05 Thread Hans.Pizka
It will save you all the many hours needed usually for
building up the embouchure strength - a magic cream as most
heavily advertised creams - just for those who believe that
buying is better than practising.
Using this cream will allow you to eat  drink anything you
want before  after the concert 

= 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Luke Zyla
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 8:29 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips

Chopsaver is a brand of lip balm that is fantastic for your
chops.  Check out the web site:  www.chopsaver.com

Luke Zyla
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Stiff Lips


 what is chopsaver?
 ___
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 unsubscribe or set options at 

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er.net
 
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[Hornlist] Paging: Herr Pizka

2006-03-05 Thread Steve Freides
Forgive a private correspondence here, but Herr Pizka, I've sent you a
couple of emails about purchasing a mouthpiece from you and have not
received a reply.  Kindly reply to me privately and we'll continue the
conversation.

You may now all return to your regularly schedule programming. :)

-S-

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[Hornlist] F

2006-03-05 Thread David Goldberg
Which plays better, your single F horn or your standard double on the F 
side?



{  David Goldberg:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  }
{ Math Dept, Washtenaw Community College }
  { Ann Arbor Michigan }
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Re: [Hornlist] F

2006-03-05 Thread Carlberg Jones

At 9:02 PM -0500 3/5/06, David Goldberg wrote:

Which plays better, your single F horn or your standard double on the F side?



There you go, David, joking around again.

Are you asking about two specific horns? If so, which ones? The 
single that Steve left a pencil in the bore of? Your Geyer? One of my 
junk 4D's or my new primo one and my 8D or my old Wunderlich 
compensating double that I sold for $25 USD?


For me, my old-new 4D plays much, much better than my great 
60-year-old 8D on the F side. I figure there's a 5% accuracy 
difference between the two horns; I get 5% more notes on the 8D than 
on the 4D.


However, I do my practicing on the 4D, so I figure if I'm hitting the 
notes on the single F horn, I'm doing much better on the double 8D 
than if I were doing my practicing on it.


How was your trip? It obviously affected your sense of humor.

Carlberg
--

My ISP feels that some of my e-mails are not worthy of deliverance.
If you do not receive something you expect, please ask me to resend.
I apologize for my ISP's evaluation of my e-mail's worthiness.
Carlberg Jones
Guanajuato, Gto.
MEXICO
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Re: [Hornlist] F

2006-03-05 Thread Carlberg Jones

At 9:02 PM -0500 3/5/06, David Goldberg wrote:

Which plays better, your single F horn or your standard double on the F side?


Oh, my God. I just sent private e-mail to the entire list.

Please accept my apology, and I'm sorry to have wasted your time.

Carlberg
--

My ISP feels that some of my e-mails are not worthy of deliverance.
If you do not receive something you expect, please ask me to resend.
I apologize for my ISP's evaluation of my e-mail's worthiness.
Carlberg Jones
Guanajuato, Gto.
MEXICO
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Re: Re: [Hornlist] Green-horn Que stions  Re: start off on an

2006-03-05 Thread Simon Varnam


On 3 6, 2006, at 3:00, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


from: Fred Baucom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
subject: Re: [Hornlist] Green-horn Questions

Hi Seth,

Since you are just getting into mouthpieces, a good place to start is  
the

first chapter of Philip Farkas' book, The Art of French Horn Playing.
This book is a gold mine of basic information about all facets related  
to
horn.  Retails for $15.  In fact, this is your lucky day - the  
'excerpt'

provided on Amazon for this book is the mouthpiece chapter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0874870216/ref=sib_dp_pt/103-0667743 
-2244626#reader-link


Nice link! Thanks, Fred.

(In case you didn't try it) keep clicking on the page that comes up  
after you click on Excerpt, and it moves through several more pages,  
one of which concludes;


I prefer to see all beginners use the F horn.

'Nuff said?

Simon

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RE: [Hornlist] Paging: Herr Pizka

2006-03-05 Thread Hans.Pizka
Hello Steve, your inquiry was from Saturday only and I am
very busy at the moment. With the Giardinelly you have got a
very good mouthpiece. It is not much different from my
mouthpieces. But I am sold out anyway  waiting for the new
production. As you know perhaps, we are sunk in snow chaos
at the moment which makes everything going slow.

But I do not recommend to buy my mouthpiece at the moment.
Would be a waste of money.

Kindest greetings

Hans

= 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steve Freides
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 2:23 AM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: [Hornlist] Paging: Herr Pizka

Forgive a private correspondence here, but Herr Pizka, I've
sent you a couple of emails about purchasing a mouthpiece
from you and have not received a reply.  Kindly reply to me
privately and we'll continue the conversation.

You may now all return to your regularly schedule
programming. :)

-S-

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RE: [Hornlist] F

2006-03-05 Thread Hans.Pizka
David, I have not seen a horn playing better than another.
It is the player. My standard double has the Viennese bore
also, and the Viennese bell section (even the flare is
bigger). But the single F gives a better result (F-horn
wise) as it is free of the additional bends.

Greetings

Hans


= 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Goldberg
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 3:02 AM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] F

Which plays better, your single F horn or your standard
double on the F side?


{  David Goldberg:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  }
{ Math Dept, Washtenaw Community College }
  { Ann Arbor Michigan }
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