Re: [Hornlist] Customizing horn for short person
Hello Priscilla, Adjusting the angle of the mouthpipe to reduce the distance between mouthpipe to bell is what is needed. This is the type of thing our Horn Specialist Jim Engele would be happy to do for you. Arlington is a stones throw outside of Boston just off Route 2. Give us a call and make plans to discuss your concerns with Jim. You will be very pleased with his attention to detail and quality of his work. James Becker Senior Technician Osmun Music www.osmun.com (Web site) 781-646-5756 Phone 781-646-2480 Fax - Original Message - From: Priscilla Douglas [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 7:31 AM Subject: [Hornlist] Customizing horn for short person Hi - Anyone have experience or advice on customizing a horn (8D) for a short person? I'd like to be able to comfortably play on the leg without extending my neck to reach the mouthpiece! Who would you recommend? I'm close to Boston but also travel to the DC area. Priscilla ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
[Hornlist] Bay Colony Brass Concert
Hello Horn List members, I would like to invite anyone in the Boston area to come out and hear the Bay Colony Brass this coming Saturday January 12th . This program has some terrific repertoire for Horn being played by Hadley Reynolds, Alec Zimmer, Drew Schroeder, Neil Godwin and Julie Heinrichs. Please pass this on to anyone you know that would like to hear this program. Thanks. James Becker Brass Repair Specialist Osmun Music Inc. Founding Member of BCB Bay Colony Brass will play a concert at St. Malachy Church 99 Bedford Street on January 12 at 7:30 (snow date will be February 2). BCB is an ensemble of 18 brass players and tympani. The program will contain brass music by Henri Tomasi, Jim Parker, Havergal Brian, Sergei Prokofiev, plus marches, and much more. The major works are the Tomasi and the Parker. Henri Tomasi was a 20th Century French composer whose music is colorful and in the case of his Fanfares Liturgiques, full of pageantry in the spirit of the great Italian, Ottorino Respighi. Parker's A Londoner in New York is a thematic take on Gershwin's American in Paris written for the famous Philip Jones Brass Ensemble in England. Parker's Londoner visits Grand Central Station (some of the most impressive train music written), Central Park, the Chrysler Building, Harlem, and Radio City. Admission is free. For more about Bay Colony Brass and directions to St. Malachy vistit our website www.baycolonybrass.org . ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Fw: [Hornlist] Cleaning a horn yourself
You could certainly clean your Horn yourself the way you described. I would prefer to see the valves removed from their casings if you were able to do so. Reinstalling them can be tricky but if you are careful and a little brave you could learn how. Soapy water works well to cut the grease and oil that may have built up. If you have a bottle brush you can scrub out the slide tubing being very careful not to scratch the brass or raise any burrs in the casings. Ironically, the worst thing for a brass instrument is air and water! The two of those things conspire with the brass to oxidize and slough off(greenish crud). Where there are deposits of this crud, dezincification(red rot) may occur. Oil and grease are a good preventive coating on the inside of your instrument and soapy water will remove the protective coating and expose the brass to the elements. It is for this reason that it is important to rinse as much of the soap out as you can, rid the horn of as much water as you can, and then coat all the internal surfaces with oil. You won't be able to remove the heaviest deposits, that is best left to the professionals to deal with. Oxidation is the slow deterioration of the metal, but will form a protective coating on the brass(such as on copper rooftops or the statue of liberty). However, valve fit can still be ruined by the slow process. Dezincification on the other hand, is something that can rot a hole through the tubing or ruin the valve fit quickly. Cleaning it yourself is a good way of removing crud or preventing crud from building up. By preventing the buildup of crud, you will prevent the more destructive process of dezincification which means your horn will live longer. I've left a lot of steps out, it isn't possible to tell you everything(it could take a while). It also might be wise to make sure you have a back up plan in case something goes wrong, i.e.: is your local repair technician available in case you can't get things back together? I would also advise that you don't do this before a performance in case something goes wrong, you get the idea. The bottom line is, if you're not comfortable with doing all this, don't do it. That said, I know there are plenty of people who are comfortable doing this at home and for that reason I give the advice presented here. Good luck. Removal of rotary valves: Valves may be removed all at once or one at a time. Parts are usually marked but not always and may appear to be interchangeable but most certainly are not. If in doubt remove one valve at a time and any parts that come off should be kept separate from similar parts of the other valves. A little common sense as well as care and attention go a long way. Remove the top cap. Remove the bearing end screw. Remove the lever string but not the string screws, these are left in place. Take the brass drift and your mallet and drive the valve out. (The bearing plate and the stop arm are designed to be a 'press fit' and must be driven on and off of their respective parts.) If you wish to replace the bumpers you may remove the bearing plate screws at this time. Install the bumper material one at a time and trim off the excess with the razor blade. You will have to determine which size fits best by trial and error and shave the bumper if necessary. Installation of rotary valves: The stop plates should be installed first. Hold the valve by the top bearing, oil the bottom bearing with your choice of bearing oil and oil the body of the valve with your choice of valve oil. All surfaces should be coated with oil. Now oil the top bearing with bearing oil. Make sure the valve will spin freely by itself before placing the top bearing plate on the valve. There should be index marks to line up on the outer edge of the plate and the top of the valve casing. Line these up first and then drive the plate down firmly using the wooden dowel and mallet. The plate should seat firmly against the casing. Inspect the plate closely to make sure this is the case. Test spin the valve to ensure it moves freely. Install the top cap firmly before using the mallet on any of the other valves. Not doing so would result in the bearing plate backing out somewhat with the impact on the other valves. http://www.osmun.com/reference/stringing_a_rotary_valve.htm Jim Engele Repair Technician Osmun Music, Inc. www.osmun.com 781-646-5756 - Original Message - From: Anna Henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Cleaning a horn yourself Hello all, In a similar topic, how should one clean the horn? I take mine to a professional about twice a year to get it chemically cleaned, dismantled, etc. In the meanwhile, I have put it in the bathtub. Is this still a common practice? My father, who was a trumpet player, has had me do this since I was ten - take the slides out, the caps off, and put it in lukewarm water with
Re: [Hornlist] Cleaning a horn yourself
You could certainly clean your Horn yourself the way you described. I would prefer to see the valves removed from their casings if you were able to do so. Reinstalling them can be tricky but if you are careful and a little brave you could learn how. Soapy water works well to cut the grease and oil that may have built up. If you have a bottle brush you can scrub out the slide tubing being very careful not to scratch the brass or raise any burrs in the casings. Ironically, the worst thing for a brass instrument is air and water! The two of those things conspire with the brass to oxidize and slough off(greenish crud). Where there are deposits of this crud, dezincification(red rot) may occur. Oil and grease are a good preventive coating on the inside of your instrument and soapy water will remove the protective coating and expose the brass to the elements. It is for this reason that it is important to rinse as much of the soap out as you can, rid the horn of as much water as you can, and then coat all the internal surfaces with oil. You won't be able to remove the heaviest deposits, that is best left to the professionals to deal with. Oxidation is the slow deterioration of the metal, but will form a protective coating on the brass(such as on copper rooftops or the statue of liberty). However, valve fit can still be ruined by the slow process. Dezincification on the other hand, is something that can rot a hole through the tubing or ruin the valve fit quickly. Cleaning it yourself is a good way of removing crud or preventing crud from building up. By preventing the buildup of crud, you will prevent the more destructive process of dezincification which means your horn will live longer. I've left a lot of steps out, it isn't possible to tell you everything(it could take a while). It also might be wise to make sure you have a back up plan in case something goes wrong, i.e.: is your local repair technician available in case you can't get things back together? I would also advise that you don't do this before a performance in case something goes wrong, you get the idea. The bottom line is, if you're not comfortable with doing all this, don't do it. That said, I know there are plenty of people who are comfortable doing this at home and for that reason I give the advice presented here. Good luck. Removal of rotary valves: Valves may be removed all at once or one at a time. Parts are usually marked but not always and may appear to be interchangeable but most certainly are not. If in doubt remove one valve at a time and any parts that come off should be kept separate from similar parts of the other valves. A little common sense as well as care and attention go a long way. Remove the top cap. Remove the bearing end screw. Remove the lever string but not the string screws, these are left in place. Take the brass drift and your mallet and drive the valve out. (The bearing plate and the stop arm are designed to be a 'press fit' and must be driven on and off of their respective parts.) If you wish to replace the bumpers you may remove the bearing plate screws at this time. Install the bumper material one at a time and trim off the excess with the razor blade. You will have to determine which size fits best by trial and error and shave the bumper if necessary. Installation of rotary valves: The stop plates should be installed first. Hold the valve by the top bearing, oil the bottom bearing with your choice of bearing oil and oil the body of the valve with your choice of valve oil. All surfaces should be coated with oil. Now oil the top bearing with bearing oil. Make sure the valve will spin freely by itself before placing the top bearing plate on the valve. There should be index marks to line up on the outer edge of the plate and the top of the valve casing. Line these up first and then drive the plate down firmly using the wooden dowel and mallet. The plate should seat firmly against the casing. Inspect the plate closely to make sure this is the case. Test spin the valve to ensure it moves freely. Install the top cap firmly before using the mallet on any of the other valves. Not doing so would result in the bearing plate backing out somewhat with the impact on the other valves. http://www.osmun.com/reference/stringing_a_rotary_valve.htm Jim Engele Repair Technician Osmun Music, Inc. www.osmun.com 781-646-5756 - Original Message - From: Anna Henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Cleaning a horn yourself Hello all, In a similar topic, how should one clean the horn? I take mine to a professional about twice a year to get it chemically cleaned, dismantled, etc. In the meanwhile, I have put it in the bathtub. Is this still a common practice? My father, who was a trumpet player, has had me do this since I was ten - take the slides out, the caps off, and put it in lukewarm water with mild dish soap.
Re: [Hornlist] Re: silver rotors
The process of removing silver plate is far more damaging than removing nickel plate. It is done chemically and by reversing the electrical charge opposite of electroplating. What you end up with is severe etching of the base metal. The times I have had silver stripped from Bach trumpets the nickel silver tubes received the greatest amount of etching than the brass did. It was not pretty. Unless the silverplating on valves (especially on pistons) has closed down the ports significantly it is better to leave well enough alone and plate over the silver. Of course if the silver is flaking then you would have little choice but to strip the silver and start from scratch. Just make darn sure none of the parts of the rotor are nickel alloy. I hope this is helpful. Jim Becker Brass Repair Specialist Osmun Music Inc. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 10:32 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Re: silver rotors Hi Dave, I have some rotors I haven't gotten to yet that have silver plating on them. I've never tried to have any like that stripped but I've sent nickel plated ones to Anderson Plating and the stripping was really cheap and they came out nice. Is it worse for the silver plating? Take Care, - Steve Often these old rotors have a lot of silver on them, and it becomes really expensive to strip them and get the remaining rotor underneath built up properly. ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] laquer
Hello Alon, I'll try to answer your questions the best I can. a) The majority of lacquered instruments today have a two part epoxy finish.The only makers I am aware of that still use cellulose lacquer are Bach trumpets and trombones, and perhaps Paris Selmer instruments. b) Metal polish of any kind will remove small amounts of metal, but it would take some time to realize a measurable amount c) Matt finishes are achieved by using an abrasive Scotchbrite type of buffing wheel or glass bead blasting prior to applying a clear coat of lacquer or electroplating with silver or gold. d) Go to http://www.napbirt.org/ for information on repair schools and training. I hope this is helpful. Jim Becker Osmun Music http://www.osmun.com (web site) (781)646-5756 (Phone) (781)646-2480 (Fax) - Original Message - From: Alon reuven [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:45 AM Subject: [Hornlist] laquer While reading some of the list members articles , some questiones came up . I would be most greatfull if some one would shere his knowledge with me regarding these questions : a) what kind of laquer is being applyed on brass instruments - is it just a plane metal laquer or is it some kind of a secret? b) If I wuold polish my horn (one of my horns is unlaquered ) with brasso - would it , actually take some metal of the instrument , cosing it damage? c) I have noticed that the Monet trumpet , as well as some saxophones , has a matt golden coating . does any body know what coating is it ? has anyone tryed to apply it on a french horn ? d) can any one tell me how and where can i learn to fix and costumise horns ? thankes , Alon Reuven ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] horn material
Hello Trey and Horn List members, Engelbert Schmid has written an informative article on the effect of different bells and alloys that you can read on our web page http://www.osmun.com/prod/Schmid/Schmidbell.htm In this article you will find some insightful information that explains the differences between the different alloys used in horn bells as well as the two distinctive methods of forming bells and the effect these have on the sound. I hope this is helpful. Jim Becker Osmun Music http://www.osmun.com (web site) (781)646-5756 (Phone) (781)646-2480 (Fax) - Original Message - From: Adam Heuston [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 7:16 PM Subject: Re: [Hornlist] horn material I don't think there is a signifigant difference in the metal of the bell, mostly because I've only played on two different horns so far, the current being an 8D. The 8D sounds a lot better to me than the last horn I had, but that could be due to the design in the horns and what I've done with my horn teacher, since I went through an embouchere change around the time I switched to the 8D. So I honestly can't really say much. Trey Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm fairly new to this list, so please forgive me if this is a recycled topic. I'm curious to hear members' thoughts on gold brass vs. yellow brass (and nickel silver for that matter) as the primary material in a horn. What kind of difference (if any) does it make for you. I've heard several different thoughts on the matter, I just want to see if there's any trend in the opinions of players. Feel free to respond privately if you'd like. Thanks, Trey _ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/fattygoatspwnyou%40yahoo.com __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] I can't bear it...
FWIW, I should point out that ball bearings have been used on the top plate of some Holton models from the late 70's, and can be found on the current model Finke valves as well. The part of the bearing plate that the spindle passes through, and the base of the spindle that keeps the endplay in check is often referred to as a thrust bearing. I believe that is the term Walter Lawson uses to describe that part of the rotor valve assembly. Jim Becker Senior Technician Osmun Music Inc. - Original Message - From: Jerry Houston [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 8:47 AM Subject: Re: [Hornlist] I can't bear it... Bill Gross wrote: Not all bearings are spherical. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:48 AM To: horn@music.memphis.edu Subject: [Hornlist] I can't bear it... Well I can bear it but it's just something that's bugging me. Why are the valve spindles on rotary valves commonly misstated as 'bearings'? A bearing is a sphere used to lessen friction between two parts, right? Isn't the correct term bushing? True, there are roller bearings, etc. But there aren't any of those in my horns, either. In fact, I don't believe I've ever seen a horn with a bearing of any kind in it, for any purpose. Bushing IS the correct term. We just don't see it used much in this application. I gave up long ago, and figured if the folks who do this sort of work for a living want to call bushings bearings, it doesn't really matter that much to me. For anyone interested in what bearings really are, though, here's a good resource: http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing.htm ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Valve Bearing Slack
Hello Bill, You can read our article on rotor valve maintenance at our site http://www.osmun.com/reference/Rot_Maint.htm Feel free to download and print as many copies as you need for yourself, friends, and students. Jim Becker Osmun Music [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.osmun.com (web site) (781)646-5756 (Phone) (781)646-2480 (Fax) (800)223-7846 (Toll Free in U.S.) - Original Message - From: Bill Gross [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Horn List' horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 8:22 AM Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Valve Bearing Slack There is an old expression the only dumb question is the one that isn't asked, (well, unless the Cabbage gets hold of your question). Anyway, I figured it's about time in my horn career to ask this one since I've owned an 8D since 1963. What is the proper procedure to oil the valves? Horn didn't come with instructions so over the years I've oiled it in a most haphazard fashion, hitting the places on and around the valves I thought needed oil. I've taken the valve caps off and oil the rotor and turned it upside down and tried to find places there to oil as well. I'd make a guess and oil, so what is the school solution? ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Giardinelli mouthpieces, old and new
Hello Steve, From first glance the newer Giardinelli mouthpieces are longer by nearly 3/16. The originals were around 2.500 long, and the newer models are 2.680 long. With a smaller tip dimension of .285 on the newer models vs. .295+ on the older models. This places the mouthpiece in roughly in the same position relative to the bore of the mouthpipe. Should you desire to have the original length, one could trim it to 2.500. Perhaps someone that has done a side by side comparison would like to comment on the playing differences between the same models made with the differing lengths. Jim Becker Senior Technician Osmun Music [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.osmun.com (web site) (781)646-5756 (Phone) (781)646-2480 (Fax) (800)223-7846 (Toll Free in U.S.) - Original Message - From: Steve Freides [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Horn List' horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 2:28 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Giardinelli mouthpieces, old and new Can anyone compare Giardinelli mouthpieces now that they're owned by a big mail-order outfit with the ones they used to produce on their own? I'm playing a C10 cup and I'm curious to know, when I see a used C10 for sale, if there is any way to tell the difference between new and old and whether it's an important difference in the first place. Thanks in advance. -S- ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Schmidt Advice Needed...
If I'm not mistaken, this looks like one those Italian made stencil horns imported for Carl Fischer. The 3rd valve wrap on the F side is a dead give away, in addition to the socket braces on the bell. These horns often have nickel plated mechanical levers, machined mouthpiece receivers, and VERY HEAVY bells. If you would like an affordable Schmidt style horn, then it seams to me to be priced about right. It certainly is not a genuine C.F. Schmidt. Jim Becker, Senior Technician Osmun Music Repairing since 1977 ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] goodbye Fidelio/Eroica
What is your idea of a short time for the Chinese quality to improve? At best, I do not expect them ever to exceed student grade. Companies like Yamaha are in it for the long haul, and are committed to professional artist quality instruments on par with the finest hand made instruments. Do you really expect the Chinese instruments to improve that much overnight? I'll believe it when I see it. Jim Becker, Senior Technician Osmun Music Inc. - Original Message - From: Alan Cole [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Horn List horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 3:05 PM Subject: RE: [Hornlist] goodbye Fidelio/Eroica That might not be so bad, specially if the prices stay below the level of Yamaha. -- Alan Cole, rank amateur McLean (Fairfax County), Virginia, USA. ~ Within a short time, expect the Chinese instruments to rise to the quality of Yamaha. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.3 - Release Date: 12/21/2004 ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Vienna Sausage Links...
The link is to the' Institute Fur Wiener Klangstil' or IWK and yes you would find it very interesting if you are interested in the Vienna Horn. Try this link: http://www.bias.at/index_e.htm It is the website of an organization that has for it's purpose the preservation or promotion or the study of the Viennese sound style. The Vienna Horn is just one area of interest they explore on the web site. Click on research activities for the English version. Jim Engele Repair Technician www.osmun.com 781-646-5756 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Ray and Sonja Crenshaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:37 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Vienna Sausage Links... Can anyone help here. I'm doing research on an ongoing personal project to learn as much about Vienna horns (in all their varieties) as I can and, being homebound, I must do this from my computer. The link below looks promising, but it requires a username, password, and domain. http://iwk.mdw.ac.at/english/research/wrinst/vhorn.htm I realize that there are just some places in the world where I'm not welcome, but most of them have at least met me before rejection sets in. From the URL I can't tell what the site is even supposed to be (no .edu, or .gov script to suggest exclusivity). The placing of the vhorn.htm snippet at the end is, to me, like waving fresh meat at a shark then asking him to tuck his linen napkin under his chin and then log-in before digging into the Schnitzel. Do any of you have access to this? ...and if so, could you tell me what's there without compromising the trust placed in you? jrc (down in SC, outside looking in) ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D help, please
Engelbert Schmid makes a valid statement that only applies to his horns, and horns by makers who's bearings are completely removable, AND can supply the oversized valves. Honing a cylinder requires BOTH bearings plates be removed. And fitting an oversized rotor should be as easy as fitting a piston valve, which I frequently do. The quality of fit is only as good as the precision tools used to measure, and the skill of the person doing the measurements (to the.0001''). However it is not difficult to taper a Texas Conn rotor and bearings prior to electroplating. We do not charge any extra to do this on our rotor valve rebuilds. I would have to agree with Engelbert that quality material, and fit will significantly improve longevity of rotor valves. And it is important not to forget how frequent oiling will reduce chemical etching, and mechanical wear. James Becker, Senior Technician Osmun Music Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] It was mentioned that the Texas casings were cylindrical and wore quickly to oval shape and were difficult to rebuild. This was my understanding until I had a conversation with E. Schmid. The Engelbert Schmid horns have cylindrical rotors. He indicated that the cylindrical rotors wear at the same rate as tapered rotors and that it is easier to rebuild a cylinder than a taper. He said that if the rotors/casings are made with precision and from the best materials, they will last long regardless of taper. He said that if a horn needs a rotor rebuild, he simply bores the casing to an oversize and laps in a new oversized rotor ... faster and cheaper. I would be interested to hear from knowledgeable folks if their experience differs. The bearings are another story. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Hose A Can You See?
Thank you for correcting me. Sorry for the confusion. Jim Engele Repair Technician Osmun Music, Inc. 781-646-5756 www.osmun.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Rob Travis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Horn List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 11:28 PM Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Hose A Can You See? I'm not much of a master of this stuff, but if you add 6% to 14 ft 12 times, it will result in just over 28 ft. When you're adding a percentage to a value repeatedly, your base for the percentage increases, so the value added increases as well (similar to compouding interest vs. simple). So if each half-step is achieved by the addition of 6%, the result will not be adding 72%, but rather adding 101.2%. (To test this, take the number 100 and multiply by 1.06; this gives you 106. Multiply this by 1.06, and you get 112.36, not 112 even. Continue, and after 12 times, you're at 201.2) It would seem, if I remember correctly from my old acoustics class, that doubling the length of the tubing will double the wavelength, thus lowering the pitch an octave, and the six-percent rule certainly seems to support this, as long as you run the numbers one 6-percent at a time. Robert S. Travis The only two things worth aiming for are good music and a clean conscience. -- Paul Hindemith Here is some interesting information: A Horn in F is approximately 12 feet long. The Bb side of the Horn is approximately 9 feet long. If you want to lower the pitch of an instrument you must add a little more than 6% to the length of the tube per semitone. Bb down to F is 5 semitones or 5 times 6%= 30%. 9ft times 130% is almost 12ft. F to D is 3 semitones or 18%. 12ft times 118% is around 14ft. D to D an octave lower would be 12 semitones lower therefore 6% times 12 is 72% added to the length (doubling works to calculate frequency when going up an octave but it will not work to calculate the length of a closed on one end conical tube when lengthening the tube to sound an octave lower). 14ft(D) times 172% is about 24 ft.(D an octave lower). I learned about the 6% rule from an out of publication journal of the C.G.Conn Company. I forget the exact title but it was regarding the construction of musical instruments and was published in the 1950's I believe. Jim Engele Repair Technician Osmun Music, Inc. 781-646-5756 www.osmun.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com My Inbox is protected by SPAMfighter 55457 spam mails have been blocked so far. Download free www.spamfighter.com today! ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Hose A Can You See?
Here is some interesting information: A Horn in F is approximately 12 feet long. The Bb side of the Horn is approximately 9 feet long. If you want to lower the pitch of an instrument you must add a little more than 6% to the length of the tube per semitone. Bb down to F is 5 semitones or 5 times 6%= 30%. 9ft times 130% is almost 12ft. F to D is 3 semitones or 18%. 12ft times 118% is around 14ft. D to D an octave lower would be 12 semitones lower therefore 6% times 12 is 72% added to the length (doubling works to calculate frequency when going up an octave but it will not work to calculate the length of a closed on one end conical tube when lengthening the tube to sound an octave lower). 14ft(D) times 172% is about 24 ft.(D an octave lower). I learned about the 6% rule from an out of publication journal of the C.G.Conn Company. I forget the exact title but it was regarding the construction of musical instruments and was published in the 1950's I believe. Jim Engele Repair Technician Osmun Music, Inc. 781-646-5756 www.osmun.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 1:07 PM Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Hose A Can You See? Hahaha, nevertheless it'd be in D. I suppose those would be for those 4th Hosaphone parts that were in Symphonie Fantastique, but were later whited out when Berlioz realised they were just too difficult to tune. Making a Hoseaphone sharp is easy. But, adding tubing to make it flatter is hard. Of course this was before the valved/slide Hoseaphone I suppose. And it was before PVC. -William In a message dated 8/9/2004 9:19:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: That would then make the 25+ foot hose be pitched in D basso? Whoo! I shudder to think of navigating those close partials. Herb Foster ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com My Inbox is protected by SPAMfighter 52597 spam mails have been blocked so far. Download free www.spamfighter.com today! ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Hetman Sythetic Oils?
It turns out Hetman has finally started resupplying product after a long wait for new packaging. We again have the full line of Hetman lubricants in stock. Jim Becker, Repair Technician Osmun Music Inc. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 9:31 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Hetman Sythetic Oils? I've been looking around for the Hetman Synthetic oils and I can no longer find them on Osmun.com. I need to re-stock my reserves. Does anyone know where to get them? Or perhaps do the good folks at Osmun still have a supply left? Thanks! -WIlliam ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com My Inbox is protected by SPAMfighter 46557 spam mails have been blocked so far. Download free www.spamfighter.com today! ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Hetman Sythetic Oils?
Sorry for the delay. We recently received our shipment from Hetman. It has taken him months to get his new packaging/bottles produced, and now we can supply the full line of lubricants to our customers. Let us know what you need. And thanks for your interest. Jim Becker, Senior Technician Osmun Music Inc. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 9:31 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Hetman Sythetic Oils? I've been looking around for the Hetman Synthetic oils and I can no longer find them on Osmun.com. I need to re-stock my reserves. Does anyone know where to get them? Or perhaps do the good folks at Osmun still have a supply left? Thanks! -WIlliam ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com My Inbox is protected by SPAMfighter 46557 spam mails have been blocked so far. Download free www.spamfighter.com today! ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
[Hornlist] Horn Choir Reading Session
Horn Choir Reading Session Saturday, April 24th 2 pm to 4 pm at Osmun Music (5 Forest St., Arlington, MA) Conductor: David Archibald (Esprit de Cor) Everyone is welcome. Bring your horn and a stand. It's free. Please call 781-646-5756 or email us at [EMAIL PROTECTED] for reservations and directions. If you like, bring music that the group might play - or for show tell. Figure on about 16 players, doubling. Many thanks to Marilyn Bone Kloss and the New England Horn Society for making this happen ! Also, see our Myron Bloom inspired Hoyer Heritage model double horns, available in the shop for tryout. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
[Hornlist] The Physics of Cabbage
The Physics of Brass Musical Instruments a presentation by Brian Holmes (alias Prof. Cabbage) Saturday, February 21st 1 pm at Osmun Music (5 Forest St., Arlington, MA) Everyone is welcome. It's free. Please call 781-646-5756 or email us at [EMAIL PROTECTED] for reservations and directions. Dr. Holmes will talk about how the different parts of a brass instrument contribute to the sound it makes. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
[Hornlist] Kathleen Mazur
If you know how I can contact Kathleen Mazur, recently of Keller, TX, please let me know. Thanks, Jim Battell Osmun Music [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.osmun.com (web site) (781)646-5756 (Phone) (781)646-2480 (Fax) (800)223-7846 (Toll Free in U.S.) ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] MR. Becker Geryer/Kruspe
Dear Leonard, I would imagine the difference would be minimal, since it is the mouthpipe, and bell have the greatest impact on playing characteristics. It is certainly possible that the openness of a Geyer wrap would contribute to less resistance than the tighter Kruspe wrap. One would have to put together such a pair of identical component horns to really know for sure. Jim Becker,Senior Technician Osmun Music, Inc. - Original Message - From: Leonard Peggy Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: hornlist [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 12:00 PM Subject: [Hornlist] MR. Becker Geryer/Kruspe Subject: Re: Kruspe and Geyer Wraps To answer your question concerning the physical differences, you need to first look at the bell shape, and size. The Kruspe bell is quite large in the stem, throat, and flair. This makes for a very broad sound, and wide pitch center. To offset the woofiness of large bells, nickel silver is often used. Nickel silver produces a more complex series of overtones (tends to be brighter sounding). On the other hand, Geyer style horns have a narrower medium sized bell that has more focus, and clarity than wider model bells. These are most commonly found in yellow brass. You will find that regional tastes will often dictate which style of horn used in symphony orchestras. Boston, and Chicago are known for prefer the playing characteristics of Geyer type horns. In New York, L.A., and Texas, the larger bell Kruspe style horns find favor. You will also find Kruspe style horns widely used in wind bands. Often the broadness of large bells is not as well suited for chamber settings. This is where you will often see Geyer style models used, due to the ability to play with a lighter, more focused sound. I hope this has been helpful to you in understanding differences between Geyer, and Kruspe style horns. Jim Becker, Senior Technician Osmun Music Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jim, A question I have put out to some very smart people and have never gotten an answer. If you started 2 identical bells, 2 identical leadpipes, a mass of pipe of the same bore, and built a Geyer wrap and a Kruspe wrap what would be the difference in playing characteristics between them? Leonard Brown ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Yamaha 668 Series II
Osmun Music has the same story from Yamaha - delivery of the screw bell 668NDII's sometime in November. We hear that the fixed bell version is in stock now. We like to stock the cut bell version. Jim Battell Osmun Music [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.osmun.com (web site) (781)646-5756 (Phone) (781)646-2480 (Fax) (800)223-7846 (Toll Free in U.S.) - Original Message - From: Scott Pappal [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 8:50 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Yamaha 668 Series II List: Does anyone know of any larger music stores which would have a new Yamaha 668 Series II, Nickel/Detachable Bell horn in stock? It seems that Yamaha won't be sending any more of these horns over from Japan until late November due to some production snaffu. I've tried Chuck Levin's and Baltimore Brass, but no dice. Just for curiosity's sake, to see if there really is a backlog on these horns, I checked at several of the discount websites such as woodwind and brasswind and music123, and sure enough, no nickel versions of the 668. Does anyone know if Osmun, Rayburn's, or other's rountinely stock Yamaha? (Wichita band instrument co. doesn't stock new Yamaha either.) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott Pappal __ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/rosmun%40osmun.com ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
[Hornlist] Randy Gardner Recital/Masterclass - reminder
Randy Gardner Recital/Masterclass Saturday, September 20th, 4 pm to 6 pm at Osmun Music (5 Forest St., Arlington, MA) Randy Gardner is Professor of Horn and Chair of Winds and Percussion Department at University of Cincinnati, College Conservatory of Music. For 22 years, he was second hornist of The Philadelphia Orchestra under the batons of music directors Wolfgang Sawallisch, Riccardo Muti, and Eugene Ormandy. His horn teachers include Philip Farkas, Christopher Leuba, Ethel Merker, and William Adam.He is the author of the book, Mastering the Horn's Low Register. Free admission. Please call 781-646-5756 or email us at [EMAIL PROTECTED] for reservations and directions. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
