RE: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-10 Thread Robert Osmun
Hi Hans,

Cylindrical casings such as those found on Finke and Engelbert Schmid horns
are open on both ends so when they are worn the casings can be honed just
like a trumpet valve. The rotor can be then replaced with an oversized one
with minimal fitting. In fact, provided the valves are kept oiled, you can
expect any rotary valve that is properly fit to last for ten-to-fifteen
years with minimal attention. Conversely, if routine maintenance is
neglected the best valves can be expected to wear prematurely and have all
the usual sticking, clicking problems too. Horn playing is tough enough
without having to contend with a dirty instrument with mechanical problems.

Regards,

Bob

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On 
> Behalf Of Prof.Hans Pizka
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 5:34 PM
> To: 'The Horn List'
> Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves
> 
> How to adjust cylindrical rotors (otherwise they could not 
> fall through an open casing) for air-tightness ??? After they 
> show signs of wear ???
> 
> === 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On 
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:11 PM
> To: horn@music.memphis.edu
> Subject: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves
> 
> > I'm not aware of any makers nowadays who use no taper on
> the rotors. 
> > There are some who have cylindrical rotors with tapered
> rotor bearings,  though.
> 
> I asked Johannes Finke (of Finke horns) about this after 
> reading (on the Finke website) how they make their valves.
> Herr Finke told me that their rotors would drop straight 
> through an open casing.
> 
> So, there's no taper on the rotors, but I'm not sure whether 
> Finke bearings (or "axles") are tapered. I do know the thrust 
> in a Finke valve is kept in check with a single ball bearing 
> on top, adjusted by a setscrew... which is an extraordinarily 
> cool idea if one intends to keep a horn for a long while.
> 
> Also, this is not said by way of any DiSAGREEMENT with what 
> you've stated. It's simply more information towards further 
> discussion on the same point.
> 
> GPF
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RE: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-10 Thread Prof.Hans Pizka
How to adjust cylindrical rotors (otherwise they could not
fall through an open casing) for air-tightness ??? After
they show signs of wear ???

=== 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:11 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

> I'm not aware of any makers nowadays who use no taper on
the rotors. 
> There are some who have cylindrical rotors with tapered
rotor bearings,  though.

I asked Johannes Finke (of Finke horns) about this after
reading (on the Finke website) how they make their valves.
Herr Finke told me that their rotors would drop straight
through an open casing.

So, there's no taper on the rotors, but I'm not sure whether
Finke bearings (or "axles") are tapered. I do know the
thrust in a Finke valve is kept in check with a single ball
bearing on top, adjusted by a setscrew... which is an
extraordinarily cool idea if one intends to keep a horn for
a long while.

Also, this is not said by way of any DiSAGREEMENT with what
you've stated. It's simply more information towards further
discussion on the same point.

GPF
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[Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-10 Thread geronimopfudgemuffin
> I'm not aware of any makers nowadays who use no taper on the rotors. There
> are some who have cylindrical rotors with tapered rotor bearings,  though.

I asked Johannes Finke (of Finke horns) about this after reading (on
the Finke website) how they make their valves. Herr Finke told me that
their rotors would drop straight through an open casing.

So, there's no taper on the rotors, but I'm not sure whether Finke
bearings (or "axles") are tapered. I do know the thrust in a Finke
valve is kept in check with a single ball bearing on top, adjusted by
a setscrew... which is an extraordinarily cool idea if one intends to
keep a horn for a long while.

Also, this is not said by way of any DiSAGREEMENT with what you've
stated. It's simply more information towards further discussion on the
same point.

GPF
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-09 Thread BrassArtsUnlim
 
In a message dated 1/9/2006 2:01:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I  believe some modern high end builders also go with no taper, 
but I don't  know if they have an alternative method for evening the  
wear.




I'm not aware of any makers nowadays who use no taper on the rotors.   There 
are some who have cylindrical rotors with tapered rotor bearings,  though.  
 
Dave Weiner
Maryland Band & Orchestra
Brass Arts Unlimited
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-09 Thread CORNO911

In a message dated 1/9/06 1:01:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> This uneven wear occurs at a much higher rate if the rotors are allowed
> to get loose, so having loose bearings tightened is probably the most
> cost effective repair you can have done.
> 
> 
Hi Bill,
This is so very true, The cost of having the valves cleaned and loose 
bearings tightened is about 1/5th of a decent valve replating
Paul Navarro
Custom Horn 
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Re: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-09 Thread billbamberg
The slight taper on the rotor mitigates the elliptical wear, to a 
degree. When Conn removed the taper, they ended up with the Texas horn 
fiasco. I believe some modern high end builders also go with no taper, 
but I don't know if they have an alternative method for evening the 
wear.


This uneven wear occurs at a much higher rate if the rotors are allowed 
to get loose, so having loose bearings tightened is probably the most 
cost effective repair you can have done.


-Original Message-
From: Tom Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 23:05:01 + (GMT)
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

This thread has been very interesting - I am full of
appreciation for the detailed insights provided by
real experts. It leads me to conclude that leaky
valves come about from a combination of corrosion and
mechanical wear.

Corrosion from acidic stuff spat into the horn
presumably affects the rotor and the bearing surfaces
equally all round - except, presumably, where there
are build ups of oxides which may protect the metal.

I assume that mechanical wear of the bearings is not
even however, since the valves move back and forth
over only part of their possible range of movement - I
expect this makes the bearings go oval. I've heard
that the Bb side of a double begins to leak first;
this must result from the bottom bearings wearing oval
and allowing a bigger than appropriate gap to form
between the rotor and the casing.

The two sources of wear presumably interact, which
must produce some complicated effects. There must
have to be quite a lot of wear in the bottom bearing
before the rotors begin to wear against the casing.

Am I right in any of this?

Another question: Which valve usually wears out first?
I've always assumed the second - does it get more use
than the rest?

Best wishes

Tom





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[Hornlist] Re: signs of leaky valves

2006-01-08 Thread Tom Fisher
This thread has been very interesting - I am full of
appreciation for the detailed insights provided by
real experts.  It leads me to conclude that leaky
valves come about from a combination of corrosion and
mechanical wear.

Corrosion from acidic stuff spat into the horn
presumably affects the rotor and the bearing surfaces
equally all round - except, presumably, where there
are build ups of oxides which may protect the metal.

I assume that mechanical wear of the bearings is not
even however, since the valves move back and forth
over only part of their possible range of movement - I
expect this makes the bearings go oval.  I've heard
that the Bb side of a double begins to leak first;
this must result from the bottom bearings wearing oval
and allowing a bigger than appropriate gap to form
between the rotor and the casing.

The two sources of wear presumably interact, which
must produce some complicated effects.  There must
have to be quite a lot of wear in the bottom bearing
before the rotors begin to wear against the casing.

Am I right in any of this?

Another question: Which valve usually wears out first?
 I've always assumed the second - does it get more use
than the rest?

Best wishes

Tom





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