Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[Bruno Postle]

On 22 September 2014 15:17:00 BST, João Carlos Lima wrote:
>>
>> A Laser solve the problem? Attaching a little laser to the lens. Has 
>> anyone tried?

I remembered this 'hapala' gadget, but haven't tried it myself: 
http://panotool.com/panotool/pages/hapalas.html

Another alternative to the philopod is to use a telescopic car aerial. They 
don't move in the wind as much as a bit of string.


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[hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[João Carlos Lima]

>
> A Laser solve the problem? Attaching a little laser to the lens. Has 
> anyone tried?
>

 João Carlos.

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[Emad ud din Bhatt]

hi,

Yes, Shooting and mastering handheld panoramas makes a panorama factory.
Due to "tripod not allowed" issues, I had to improve my handheld panorama
shooting. Now I am unplugged, travel light and no restrictions. But I have
developed a humapod technique.

Just raise camera up above my head which is center point of my body.
Camera in portrait orientation
Now simply rotate my body and take images (With little practice your number
of shots will be minimized)

Advantages of this technique are low parallax errors than philopod.
Parallax is directly related with distance of camera to objects. If objects
are near to camera; than parallax is increased and if objects are far away
from camera parallax is decreased. I got confirmation from Michael thoby as
well. Now in this case camera is almost 7 feet high whereas in philopod
method it is almost 3.5 feet. It is also like shooting with a little pole.

Another method I use is to hold camera on my chest right under my chin. I
get lesser camera shake and I shoot without philopod. In this technique
camera lens and tip of shoes are almost on same point. Keep an eye on shoes
tip, rotate and keep shooting :)

Carlos 500 handheld panoramas is a good target. I thought 21 panoramas in 3
hours was more than enough :)

On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 10:29 PM, 'kfj' via hugin and other free panoramic
software  wrote:

>
>
> Am Samstag, 23. August 2014 15:43:43 UTC+2 schrieb Cartola:
>>
>> I totally agree with Kay.
>>
>> When I have first tested philopod some years ago I didn't like it and
>> abandoned it. A few time ago I have rediscovered it and maybe finally used
>> it correctly. I am using it all time now (many examples in my weekly
>> publishings ). It's lighter, shooting is
>> faster, call less attention, mainly in "forbidden places" like museums and
>> others where they tend to complain about tripods, and stitching is also
>> much faster, with nadir already ok in the first step.
>>
>> This video shows a good technique to take advantage of the philopod
>> .
>>
>
> The video shows the 'classic' philopod technique. Notice how, in the first
> example, the camera is tilted slightly up/down. If the philopod were
> positioned precisely (weight over ground target), tilting the camera down
> means moving the NPP further forward than it should be, and tilting it up
> moves it further back. Using my loop-and-brace technique avoids the
> problem; the brace will keep the loop precisely in-plane with the NPP at
> all times. Florian's second example shows him doing zenith and nadir shots
> by 'rule of thumb'. This works all right, but with the loop and brace
> technique, you don't do zenith and nadir shots vertically up or down, but,
> still guided by the philopd, tilted very far up and very far down. Again
> the brace takes care of keeping the loop in-plane with the NPP, only the
> sky shot is a bit awkward since the camera body gets in the way of the loop
> if the brace isn't very big, but the zenith is usually less problematic
> than the nadir, since most of the content there is quite far away and
> parallax isn't a problem. For the nadir shot, I position the camera with
> the philopd and then gently swing it out of the way with one hand when I
> take the shot - that way I don't have the string and weight in the picture.
>
> I am particularly pleased with the good performance around the nadir. I
> routinely use my GPS unit, oriented to magnetic north, as my ground target.
> When I stitch the panorama, all I need to do to orient it is to center on
> the nadir, drag the GPS unit's image to the center, and rotate until the
> GPS unit shows upright. With this simple operation I get a perfectly level
> horizon and I don't have to bother myself with orienting the panorama some
> other way - I can upload straight to 360cities.
>
>>
>> Zeiljko Soletic  inspired me
>> to retry the technique. Watching his panoramas (almost all with philopod) I
>> gave it another try. For example, in a trip to France he shot more than 500
>> panoramas with philopod (he mentioned that at facebook).
>>
>
> Almost all my recent ones are done with a philopod as well:
>
> https://www.360cities.net/profile/kfj
>
>>
>> Tripod or pole now only for specific situations, like when long
>> expositions are necessary or a higher point of view (pole). I have a drone
>> for even higher shooting :)
>>
>
> Cool! I thought about geting into drones myself. I suppose it's fun
> programming the thing to do it's little dance around the NPP ;)
> I found that the philopod isn't precise enough to do man-made stuff, since
> in straight lines, you can see even single-pixel errors. But for
> landscapes, it's all I need. I make sure that the horizon +/- 30° stitches
> correctly and leave the covering up of the ground and sky errors to the
> blender - that's why you usually see the image of my GPS unit 'torn in
> half' when you look at t

Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

['kfj' via hugin and other free panoramic software]

Am Samstag, 23. August 2014 15:43:43 UTC+2 schrieb Cartola:
>
> I totally agree with Kay.
>
> When I have first tested philopod some years ago I didn't like it and 
> abandoned it. A few time ago I have rediscovered it and maybe finally used 
> it correctly. I am using it all time now (many examples in my weekly 
> publishings ). It's lighter, shooting is faster, 
> call less attention, mainly in "forbidden places" like museums and others 
> where they tend to complain about tripods, and stitching is also much 
> faster, with nadir already ok in the first step.
>
> This video shows a good technique to take advantage of the philopod 
> .
>
 
The video shows the 'classic' philopod technique. Notice how, in the first 
example, the camera is tilted slightly up/down. If the philopod were 
positioned precisely (weight over ground target), tilting the camera down 
means moving the NPP further forward than it should be, and tilting it up 
moves it further back. Using my loop-and-brace technique avoids the 
problem; the brace will keep the loop precisely in-plane with the NPP at 
all times. Florian's second example shows him doing zenith and nadir shots 
by 'rule of thumb'. This works all right, but with the loop and brace 
technique, you don't do zenith and nadir shots vertically up or down, but, 
still guided by the philopd, tilted very far up and very far down. Again 
the brace takes care of keeping the loop in-plane with the NPP, only the 
sky shot is a bit awkward since the camera body gets in the way of the loop 
if the brace isn't very big, but the zenith is usually less problematic 
than the nadir, since most of the content there is quite far away and 
parallax isn't a problem. For the nadir shot, I position the camera with 
the philopd and then gently swing it out of the way with one hand when I 
take the shot - that way I don't have the string and weight in the picture.

I am particularly pleased with the good performance around the nadir. I 
routinely use my GPS unit, oriented to magnetic north, as my ground target. 
When I stitch the panorama, all I need to do to orient it is to center on 
the nadir, drag the GPS unit's image to the center, and rotate until the 
GPS unit shows upright. With this simple operation I get a perfectly level 
horizon and I don't have to bother myself with orienting the panorama some 
other way - I can upload straight to 360cities.

>
> Zeiljko Soletic  inspired me to 
> retry the technique. Watching his panoramas (almost all with philopod) I 
> gave it another try. For example, in a trip to France he shot more than 500 
> panoramas with philopod (he mentioned that at facebook).
>

Almost all my recent ones are done with a philopod as well:

https://www.360cities.net/profile/kfj 

>
> Tripod or pole now only for specific situations, like when long 
> expositions are necessary or a higher point of view (pole). I have a drone 
> for even higher shooting :)
>

Cool! I thought about geting into drones myself. I suppose it's fun 
programming the thing to do it's little dance around the NPP ;)
I found that the philopod isn't precise enough to do man-made stuff, since 
in straight lines, you can see even single-pixel errors. But for 
landscapes, it's all I need. I make sure that the horizon +/- 30° stitches 
correctly and leave the covering up of the ground and sky errors to the 
blender - that's why you usually see the image of my GPS unit 'torn in 
half' when you look at the nadir of my images.

Kay

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[Carlos Eduardo G. Carvalho (Cartola)]

I totally agree with Kay.

When I have first tested philopod some years ago I didn't like it and
abandoned it. A few time ago I have rediscovered it and maybe finally used
it correctly. I am using it all time now (many examples in my weekly
publishings ). It's lighter, shooting is faster,
call less attention, mainly in "forbidden places" like museums and others
where they tend to complain about tripods, and stitching is also much
faster, with nadir already ok in the first step.

This video shows a good technique to take advantage of the philopod
.

Zeiljko Soletic  inspired me to
retry the technique. Watching his panoramas (almost all with philopod) I
gave it another try. For example, in a trip to France he shot more than 500
panoramas with philopod (he mentioned that at facebook).

Tripod or pole now only for specific situations, like when long expositions
are necessary or a higher point of view (pole). I have a drone for even
higher shooting :)

It is much easier now to produce more panoramas and tours. I used to
publish one panorama by week and now many times I produce a tour with many
panoramas, like this with 12 panos
.
BTW, I am not a professional, I am a system analyst, have a 8h/day job,
have 2 little kids and this is done in my free time.

Sometimes I stitch as a freelancer and it's much easier to stitch my
philopod shootings than those tripod ones they send me ;)

Thanks philopod! :)

[ ]s,

Carlos E G Carvalho (Cartola)
http://cartola.org/360
http://www.panoforum.com.br/


2014-08-22 15:39 GMT-03:00 'kfj' via hugin and other free panoramic
software :

>
>
> Am Sonntag, 4. August 2013 13:14:52 UTC+2 schrieb John Eklund:
>
> the philopod is only for the desperate.
>
>
> I disagree. I've come to like the method very much, and I'm happy with my
> results. I only realized how good the technique is once I had learned it,
> and now I'm using itall the time.
>
>
>> Like the Swiss army knife, its main feature is that you should always
>> carry it on you.
>
>
> My improved (loop, weight and brace) philopod weighs 31.7g, including it's
> box. Considering my backpack weighs in at about 20kg, this isn't much.
> Beats my tripod, anyway. And I stopped taking my swiss army knife (75.1g)
> in favour of a small Opinel (36.5g). So for the weight of a swiss army
> knife, I now have a knife and a philopod :)
>
> Kay
>
>
>  --
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> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

['kfj' via hugin and other free panoramic software]

Am Sonntag, 4. August 2013 13:14:52 UTC+2 schrieb John Eklund:

the philopod is only for the desperate.


I disagree. I've come to like the method very much, and I'm happy with my 
results. I only realized how good the technique is once I had learned it, 
and now I'm using itall the time.
 

> Like the Swiss army knife, its main feature is that you should always 
> carry it on you.


My improved (loop, weight and brace) philopod weighs 31.7g, including it's 
box. Considering my backpack weighs in at about 20kg, this isn't much. 
Beats my tripod, anyway. And I stopped taking my swiss army knife (75.1g) 
in favour of a small Opinel (36.5g). So for the weight of a swiss army 
knife, I now have a knife and a philopod :)

Kay


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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[John Eklund]

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:28:18 AM UTC+2, IKT wrote:
>
> I used to use a similar technique of something sticking up from the 
> ground. I have a particular thing that I can carry with me. To increase 
> stabilisation, the thing I have that sticks up from the ground has three 
> legs. You can call it a tripod, if you like.
>

Touché. the philopod is only for the desperate. Like the Swiss army knife, 
its main feature is that you should always carry it on you. It's the second 
best thing. And the johnpod is only for the pathetic who didn't even carry 
the string in their pocket. The main feature of the johnpod is that the 
thingy sticking up should be found on scene, not carried by the 
photographer. Carrying it would cancel out its main feature.

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[Ian Tindale]

I used to use a similar technique of something sticking up from the ground.
I have a particular thing that I can carry with me. To increase
stabilisation, the thing I have that sticks up from the ground has three
legs. You can call it a tripod, if you like.

Now that I use my Pentax Q and 03 Fish-Eye lens as the panorama rig (that
can fit in a coat pocket), I just hold it up above a notional point on the
ground — no dangling string waving about in the wind, and no thing to carry
around. Just imagine you have a connecting thing from camera to ground. An
imaginpod.


On 4 August 2013 02:05, Gnome Nomad  wrote:

> On 08/03/2013 01:04 PM, John Eklund wrote:
>
>> I once came up with what I called the "inverse philopod". You may call
>> it the Johnpod if you want. :)
>>
>> Instead of something hanging from the lens, you can use something
>> sticking up from the ground. A branch or stick or whatever you can find
>> on the scene, provided it is tall enough. Hold the camera just above the
>> stick without touching it and shoot as needed.
>>
>> It's easy to stick something in the ground if you shoot on grass or
>> soil. In the asphalt jungle that won't work so I leave it to the reader
>> to be creative... I once used a piece of rebar sticking up in the ruins
>> of a half-demolished building I wanted to capture close-up.
>>
>
> A friend of ours has a cane designed to stand upright when you're not
> holding it. Works fine on solid level surfaces.
>
> --
> David W. Jones
> gnomeno...@gmail.com
> wandering the landscape of god
> http://dancingtreefrog.com
> http://www.clanjones.org/**david/ 
> http://dancing-treefrog.**deviantart.com/
> http://www.cafepress.com/**otherend/ 
>
>
> --
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> http://wiki.panotools.org/**Hugin_FAQ
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>
>
>


-- 
*Ian Tindale*

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[Gnome Nomad]

On 08/03/2013 01:04 PM, John Eklund wrote:

I once came up with what I called the "inverse philopod". You may call
it the Johnpod if you want. :)

Instead of something hanging from the lens, you can use something
sticking up from the ground. A branch or stick or whatever you can find
on the scene, provided it is tall enough. Hold the camera just above the
stick without touching it and shoot as needed.

It's easy to stick something in the ground if you shoot on grass or
soil. In the asphalt jungle that won't work so I leave it to the reader
to be creative... I once used a piece of rebar sticking up in the ruins
of a half-demolished building I wanted to capture close-up.


A friend of ours has a cane designed to stand upright when you're not 
holding it. Works fine on solid level surfaces.


--
David W. Jones
gnomeno...@gmail.com
wandering the landscape of god
http://dancingtreefrog.com
http://www.clanjones.org/david/
http://dancing-treefrog.deviantart.com/
http://www.cafepress.com/otherend/

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[hugin-ptx] Re: improved philopod technique for handheld panorama shooting

[John Eklund]

I once came up with what I called the "inverse philopod". You may call it 
the Johnpod if you want. :)

Instead of something hanging from the lens, you can use something sticking 
up from the ground. A branch or stick or whatever you can find on the 
scene, provided it is tall enough. Hold the camera just above the stick 
without touching it and shoot as needed.

It's easy to stick something in the ground if you shoot on grass or soil. 
In the asphalt jungle that won't work so I leave it to the reader to be 
creative... I once used a piece of rebar sticking up in the ruins of a 
half-demolished building I wanted to capture close-up.

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