KR> Results from Break IN run with new carb location and intakemanifold

[bob pearce]

Randy...If you note. The cylinders on an engine,
straight or V or opposed, are numbered with  respect
to the crankshaft journal's position to the front or
sometimes rear of the engine...If a certain cylinder
is controlled by #3 journal it will be number #3
cylinder. Its that simplebob p
--- Randy Smith  wrote:

> Did someone change the # system on this engine? All
> apposing engines are odd on one side even on the
> other.
> 
> 
> --- da...@alltel.net wrote:
> 
> > The richest of the two is #3, and the one only
> > slightly rich is #1.  They are on opposite sides,
> on
> > the prop end.  I am using an Ellison EFS-2.  The
> two
> > aft cylinders, #2 and #4, are nice and clean.
> > 
> > From: "Brian Kraut" 
> > 
> > With two cylinders on the same side rich 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at
> > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
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> > 
> 
> 
>  
>

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KR> 3 Gallon Header Tank

[bob pearce]

Fuel tanks...For years I have been soldering up my
tanks from plain old galvanized steel. Much as Piper
did for a long time...The fabrication is simple. It is
inexpensive. They proved to be long lasting and if you
should happen to develop a leak very simple to
repair..I would solder in a auto filler neck obtained
at the wreckers which solved another problems and the
necessary brass fitting were soldered right into the
tank. In weight I found them slightly heavier than the
aluminum tanks I had been so laboriously making and
lighter by quite a bit than the one glass tank I
attempted...I have been told that the alcohol that you
might have in the fuel you purchase degrades both
polyester and epoxy resinsbob pearce
--- D  Lively <riksh...@lisco.com> wrote:

> Jeff:
> 
> A good thought as well but I figured this would also
> form the ledge that is built in to the pre-molded
> tank and forn the well for tank low point to boot.
> 
> The choice of (3) gallons is that should give me
> pretty close to an hour to get on the dround if lose
> the electric fuel pump that will transfer fuel from
> the wings.  I plan a gravity feed to the engine from
> the header tank.
> 
> I worked on this a bit this after noon and have
> opted for a core instead od a piece of pipe to
> reduce the volume of paster and had to use some
> added foam to block the dams in place but still only
> used 1-1/2 12' wide by 8'-0" x 3/4" thhk foam left
> over foam boards. should be super easy to remove
> from the pre-molded tank.
> 
> Don
>

>  
> 
>  
> - Original Message - 
> From: "wilder_jeff Wilder" <wilder_j...@msn.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 3:30 PM
> Subject: RE: KR> 3 Gallon Header Tank
> 
> 
> > 
> > What about using a white foam cooler you can get
> from Walmart during any 
> > summer. I think they cost about 3 bucks.  Fill it
> with 3 gallons of water, 
> > mark the line... empty water, place release agent
> ( plastic wrap ) inside 
> > and fill with your plaster up to the given line.  
> Be it would be alot 
> > faster
> > 
> > just a thought.
> > 
> > 
> > -Jeff Wilder
> > CISSP,CCE,C/EH
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-
> >  Version: 3.1
> > GIT/CM/CS/O d- s:+ a C+++ UH++ P L++ E- w-- N+++
> o-- K- w O- M--
> > V-- PS+ PE- Y++ PGP++ t+ 5- X-- R* tv b++ DI++ D++
> > G e* h--- r- y+++*
> > --END GEEK CODE BLOCK--
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >>From: "D  Lively" <riksh...@lisco.com>
> >>Reply-To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
> >>To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> >>Subject: KR> 3 Gallon Header Tank
> >>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 13:59:08 -0500
> >>MIME-Version: 1.0
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KR> Bangers & Mash

[bob pearce]

beats spam.
--- laser...@juno.com wrote:

> Babies, Vegemite, and endless re-posting of each
> email on these
> fascinating subjects.  
> 
> Anyone up for discussing Bovril?
> 
> Mike
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
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> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
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> 






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KR> T-88 Epoxy

[bob pearce]

Darren.Contact my friend in Australia, Chas
Knightsbridge for details on
epoxy...cknightsbri...@hotmail.combob pearce
--- Darren Crompton <kr.2s.dar...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I guess this post is more for the Aussies.
> 
> I am unable to find a supplier for T-88 Epoxy here
> in Australia.  Is there a
> suitable alternative or do I arrange to have it
> posted from the US?  I'm not
> sure if posting it would be OK as I'd be pretty sure
> it would be classified
> as "dangerous goods"
> 
> Cheers
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
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KR> sanding joints?

[bob pearce]

Sanding jointsI have been building wooden
airplanes for over 40 years and using epoxy, including
T88 for the last 30 and since begining the epoxy I
have never sanded a joint. My joints are usually
planed now but for years used a planer blade in my
saw. Both with excellent results. I would suggest that
sanding, unless all the dust is removed actually
contaminates a joint. I might add that besides repairs
and restorations I have built 7 airplanes, 2 of which
were of my own design...bob pearce
--- Russ Kendall <rkend...@bendbroadband.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone, I've searched the archives on the topic
> of roughing up/preping joints prior to glueing with
> T-88. I recieved some input that this practice was
> not recommended. I used resin bond sandpaper to
> roughen the joints. 
>Any new feelings on this? I glued up a couple of
> test joints, and posted on my website.
> http://home.bendbroadband.com/russkr2s
> 
> 
> Russ
> ___
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KR> Ordinary Insulation Foam & Glass

[bob pearce]

Regarding sealing foams...It has been my experience,
all negative, that somewhere there will be a pinhole
or 2 through which the styrene will creep eating out
the foam behindThe only safe way with these foams
that I know of is to use epoxy resinbob p
--- D  Lively  wrote:

> Netters:
> 
> Has any one attempted to coat Styro or PVC foams
> with clear "Satin Urethane" 
> to seal it and then "Glass" over it.  -- Non
> Structural areas of course.
> 
> Don Lively
> Burlington IA 52601 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
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> 





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KR> really dumb question, pushrods

[bob pearce]

You fools...A yard stick is something made of wood or
other material that you keep in your back
yard...Unless, of course, you happen to have a front
yard stick...bob p
--- Brian Kraut  wrote:

> Cut 85.6 mm off of your meter stick and you will
> have a yard stick.
> 
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net
> [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
> Behalf Of AVLEC
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 2:12 AM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: KR> really dumb question, pushrods
> 
> 
> Guys,
> I need to ask a really dumb question. I am starting
> to build a model mustang
> from correx and need to know what a yardstick is, or
> rather the dimensions
> of a yardstick. I presume that it is a yard long but
> have no clue as to how
> many furlongs wide it is or how many acres thick. It
> is used for the main
> spar in the model.
> To make this post KR related, does anyone know of a
> way to move the aileron
> actuation to behind the rear spar inside the
> fuselage before exiting the
> sides. It must preferably fit through the gap under
> the rear spar which is
> roughly 30mm.( AS5048) I intend to use pushrods for
> elevator as well as
> ailerons. I have an idea of a torque tube for
> aileron actuation with a
> pushrod running through it for elevator actuation
> but it is fairly
> complicated at the stick end. There must be an
> easier way to achieve this.
> 
> Regards
> Dene Collett
> KR2SRT builder
> South africa
> Whisper assembler
> See: www.whisperaircraft.com
> mailto: av...@telkomsa.net
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
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> please see other KRnet info at
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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KR> Safety check item

[bob pearce]

Yes Joe, but a sleeve or bushing will increase the
area of contact with the wood quite dramatically. A
few moments with your calculator will prove this
outbob p
--- "Joseph H. Horton" 
wrote:

> Russ et all,
> I had to think about this for a couple days
> and decided that this
> is not what I would or am going to do. The only way
> that I see a sleeve
> being an advantage is if it was long enough to be in
> the metal plates on
> each side of the wood. Other wise the sleeve in the
> wood alone would have
> 2 places for movement to start. One location being
> the sleeve to wood fit
> and the other being the clearance around the bolt
> through the sleeve. The
> way mine will be repaired is the top 2 holes will be
> reamed out to take a
> 1/4" bolt and the bottom 2 holes which are too close
> to the floor board
> to drill out will remain AN3 embedded with flox. I
> always did have a
> backer plate on the cockpit side of the connection.
> I really think that
> the occasional shimmy as well as the 4.5 g landing a
> year and a half ago
> are the case and contributing factors for the
> elongation of the wood
> holes. I'm slightly better at landing now and (I
> only scare me not
> passengers) I have replaced the strut with a new
> one.
> Still a location that should be checked with
> the annual.
> 
> Joe Horton, Coopersburg, PA.
> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
>  
> On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 03:13:19 -0800 "Russ Kendall"
>  writes:
> > Hi Joe,
> >I wonder, could a guy drill these out and
> epoxie in some steel 
> > or
> > aluminum sleeves to run the bolts through?
> > Russ
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Joseph H Horton"
> 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 2:56 PM
> > Subject: KR> Safety check item
> > 
> > 
> > >
> > > Guys,
> > > For the guys with nose gear I found a
> item that I need to 
> > check
> > > on more often. The 4 an-3 bolts that go thru the
> Deihl  nose gear 
> > bracket
> > > where it attaches to the firewall on mine have
> loosened up and 
> > slightly
> > > elongated the holes in the wood. This can not be
> identified with 
> > the
> > > weight on the nose gear. It has to have the nose
> raised and all 
> > the
> > > weight taken off to be able to detect the
> movement at the 
> > firewall. In
> > > all fairness I had an occasional front wheel
> shimmy and I found 
> > this
> > > defect while working on the shimmy problem. The
> hole elongation 
> > is
> > > vertical only not laterally.
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
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