KR> [EXTERNAL] Re: KR controls

[Phillip Matheson]

I can confirm that I have needed ALL aileron movement.
My home strip is an agg strip, 23-05. no x strip. very prone to x winds.
Having many trees and buildings, when retuning home from a trip,and found 
high wind gusty x wind on 23, coming over the trees and in south Wester, I 
used full aileron control,
it was the only time I landed somewhere else and got a rid home.

Phil Matheson

-



Hi everyone: I saw the videos of how little a KR pilot moves his control
stick to fly a kr. My question is, do you ever need to use the complete
travel length of the control stick? The elevator has a + - 30 degree
travel, do you use the complete 30 degree to land the KR?

Thank You Larry Elrod


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KR> [EXTERNAL] Re: KR controls

[m.ladigo at cox.net]

I say, "most definitely". There will be times of quite gusty crosswinds when 
you may wish you had MORE travel. Flight near stall is a different animal than 
cruise flight. There is not nearly the air loads on the controls.

 "Elrod wrote:
>
> Hi everyone: I saw the videos of how little a KR pilot moves his control
> stick to fly a kr. My question is, do you ever need to use the complete
> travel length of the control stick? The elevator has a + - 30 degree
> travel, do you use the complete 30 degree to land the KR?
>
> Thank You Larry Elrod
>
>
>
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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>
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KR> [EXTERNAL] Re: KR controls

[Dan Heath]

You may possible use full aileron in cross wind landings or take off.  I
never have, but I can see that it could possibly be necessary.

I use full stick forward on landing once the wheels are planted, adjusted
for the amount of nose forward I need to keep the tail up.  I keep the tail
up till it cannot be kept up due to the lack of speed.  I am sure everyone
does not do it exactly that way, but I think that most use a fair amount of
forward stick once the wheels are planted, to keep them planted.

My Panther Building Documentation at PantherBuilder Web Site

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Elrod, Larry
Ann Arbor via KRnet
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 12:11 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> [EXTERNAL] Re: KR controls


Hi everyone: I saw the videos of how little a KR pilot moves his control
stick to fly a kr. My question is, do you ever need to use the complete
travel length of the control stick? The elevator has a + - 30 degree travel,
do you use the complete 30 degree to land the KR? 

Thank You Larry Elrod



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KR> [EXTERNAL] Re: KR controls

[Elrod, Larry Ann Arbor]

Hi everyone: I saw the videos of how little a KR pilot moves his control
stick to fly a kr. My question is, do you ever need to use the complete
travel length of the control stick? The elevator has a + - 30 degree
travel, do you use the complete 30 degree to land the KR? 

Thank You Larry Elrod



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KR> Controls

[Colin Rainey]

Pete wrote:" Has anyone tried mounting their control stick on the forward
side of the main spar?"

If I were installing my own controls, all of them would be pushtube type,
save the rudder. The easiest thing to do for the ailerons is to install a
bellcrank on the rear of the main spar, to transfer motion from the stick to
rear spar where a second bellcrank would send the motion out to the aileron
bellcrank, which by plans has the synchronizing cable installed and running
from wing to wing. This is replaced by the pushtube running from wing to
wing, with the adjusting parts of the tubes behind the rear spar. This would
eliminate the need for the front cables and associated pullies altogether,
making your entire stub wing available for fuel. One of the netters had some
really good pictures of the installation I am referring to, so it has been
done once or twice at least. I would convert mine except I am still in the
engine swap mode. I may still later...

Colin Rainey
brokerpi...@bellsouth.net

KR> Controls

[Ron Smith]

Colin Rainey  wrote:Pete wrote:" Has anyone 
tried mounting their control stick on the forward
side of the main spar?"

If I were installing my own controls, all of them would be pushtube type,
save the rudder. The easiest thing to do for the ailerons is to install a
bellcrank on the rear of the main spar, to transfer motion from the stick to
rear spar where a second bellcrank would send the motion out to the aileron
bellcrank, which by plans has the synchronizing cable installed and running
from wing to wing. This is replaced by the pushtube running from wing to
wing, with the adjusting parts of the tubes behind the rear spar. This would
eliminate the need for the front cables and associated pullies altogether,
making your entire stub wing available for fuel. One of the netters had some
really good pictures of the installation I am referring to, so it has been
done once or twice at least. I would convert mine except I am still in the
engine swap mode. I may still later...

Colin Rainey
brokerpi...@bellsouth.net

  That's exactly what I'm doing.


Ron Smith
Kr2ssxl
Buckeye Arizona
mercedesm...@yahoo.com
http://ronsmith.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php

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KR> Controls

[Martindale Family]

You can also run pushrods from the stick out to a bellcrank in the wing gap 
on both sides thence another back in the gap to the aileron arms and do away 
with the follow through near the rear spar all together. I ran mine on the 
rear of the main but see no reason why you couldn't do it on the front if 
the stick was kinked towards the pilot to give enough room for forward 
movement against the instrument panel. This set up gives uninterrupted space 
for an inner wing tank.


John Martindale
29 Jane Circuit
TOORMINA NSW 2452
AUSTRALIA

phone:  61 2 66584767 (H)
 61 2 66869075 (W)
mobile:  0403 049990
email:johnja...@optusnet.com.au
web: www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm

- Original Message - 
From: "Colin Rainey" <brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 12:27 AM
Subject: KR> Controls


> Pete wrote:" Has anyone tried mounting their control stick on the forward
> side of the main spar?"
>
> If I were installing my own controls, all of them would be pushtube type,
> save the rudder. The easiest thing to do for the ailerons is to install a
> bellcrank on the rear of the main spar, to transfer motion from the stick 
> to
> rear spar where a second bellcrank would send the motion out to the 
> aileron
> bellcrank, which by plans has the synchronizing cable installed and 
> running
> from wing to wing. This is replaced by the pushtube running from wing to
> wing, with the adjusting parts of the tubes behind the rear spar. This 
> would
> eliminate the need for the front cables and associated pullies altogether,
> making your entire stub wing available for fuel. One of the netters had 
> some
> really good pictures of the installation I am referring to, so it has been
> done once or twice at least. I would convert mine except I am still in the
> engine swap mode. I may still later...
>
> Colin Rainey
> brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
>
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
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KR> controls

[mar...@simerson.net]

Hi all

I am ready to start rigging my rudder.
The question I have is to swage or not to swage?
I would like to use swage fork ends on the end of my cables but in
parenthesis it says "can be swaged on to cable with a special tool."???
 the nicopress tools and swage tool don't say nothing about use with fork
ends.


OR  should i go with the  cable thimble/sleeve/cable shackles method
what  do you guys think?
Keith Crawford
http://martha.simerson.net/?cat=2

KR> controls

[Brian Kraut]

The tool for the fork ends is about $6,000.  If you want fork ends on one
side it would be best to have Spruce swage them on for you and then you can
use the Nicopress ends on the turnbuckles on the other end of the cable and
swage them yourself.  They do it fairly cheaply.  You can also check with
your local mechanics.  I know of a shop here that has the tool, but by the
time they take it out, get all the dust off, set it up, and swage a few ends
you would pay for a half hour of a mechanics time.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of mar...@simerson.net
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 11:22 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR> controls


Hi all

I am ready to start rigging my rudder.
The question I have is to swage or not to swage?
I would like to use swage fork ends on the end of my cables but in
parenthesis it says "can be swaged on to cable with a special tool."???
 the nicopress tools and swage tool don't say nothing about use with fork
ends.


OR  should i go with the  cable thimble/sleeve/cable shackles method
what  do you guys think?
Keith Crawford
http://martha.simerson.net/?cat=2

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KR> Controls/location/cockpit width

[larry flesner]

>Larry I thought the same thing.. then I was reminded that when I fly a  
>production plane (piper warrior and most others),  I always have  my right
hand on the throttle quadrant and my left hand on wheel  anyway!!!  So that
settled it 
>for me!! 
>John Monday
+

I too prefer flying a control wheel with the left hand, right hand on 
throttle but I like right hand on a stick, left hand on throttle.  I'm
right handed and it's a matter of personal preference.  Every
builder should build their KR the way THEY want it.

As to cockpit width mentioned in another post, go to 

http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp

and type in cockpit width.  You should get 133 hits on the subject.
This address is at the bottom of every net e-mail.

Larry Flesner

KR> CONTROLS

[Eric Evezard]

Hi Netters--- 

   TELtrailing edge left
   TER   trailing edge right
  What is the correct deflection of the KR 2 s Rudder ?
  What is  a good deflection for the tailwheel  if differential to the rudder ?
Thanks Again,
Eric Evezard,
South Africa.

KR> CONTROLS

[larry flesner]

>  What is the correct deflection of the KR 2 s Rudder ?
>  What is  a good deflection for the tailwheel  if differential to the
rudder ?
>Eric Evezard,
++

Rudder deflection is 30 degrees each way. ( page 58 and 59 of the plans)

My tailwheel arms are approx the same length as the rudder horns
and I don't notice any "transition" from tailwheel to rudder control
and back on T.O. or landing.  I'm using a 4" steerable/full swivel
tailwheel unit and my KR drives just like a "real airplane" around
the ramp and hangar area. :-)

Larry Flesner

KR>Controls

[Gavin Donohoe]

Hi all,

I'm making my dual control stick assy  the same as Mark Langford's from bits 
and pieces around the workshop, and I have some 1 1/8" T6 alum tube I  was 
thinking of using for the stick.
Has anybody any ideas as whether this is going to be too large Diameter to be 
practical?? by this I  mean is it going to be too bulky and get in the way all 
the time?   I know it's over kill but hey it's free!!

Remember the home builders motto if it costs money it's too expensive.

Gav



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KR>Controls

[Dan Heath]

RE:  1 1/8" T6 alum tube..by this I mean is it going to be too bulky and
get in the way all the time?


The only things that I can think of is that it will affect is the size that
everything else may need to be and the clearance you will have between it
and the floor for running your cable or tube horn. 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Controls

[roger mitchell]

you might consider that most handles are bored to 7/8 or 3/4 dia,soif you plan 
to use a nice grip you may wish you went smaller with the control post
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gavin Donohoe 
  To: KR builders and pilots 
  Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 3:42 AM
  Subject: KR>Controls


  Hi all,

  I'm making my dual control stick assy  the same as Mark Langford's from bits 
and pieces around the workshop, and I have some 1 1/8" T6 alum tube I  was 
thinking of using for the stick.
  Has anybody any ideas as whether this is going to be too large Diameter to be 
practical?? by this I  mean is it going to be too bulky and get in the way all 
the time?   I know it's over kill but hey it's free!!

  Remember the home builders motto if it costs money it's too expensive.

  Gav



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KR>Controls

[Phillip Matheson]

Gavin
My stick is made of 1" 4130, but your 1 1/8" T6 , and only a foot or so
long, should be OK,
but I'm not an engineer.
Good luck with the project


Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines  and kits at.
http://www.vw-engines.com/
http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/
See my KR at Mark Jones web
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/pmkr2.html