KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Roger]

Speaking of alr scoops and filler and sanding. This is my current project.  
Getting closer. Maybe Mike will paint for me :)

Roger
Rbaalman at cox.net
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KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[bjoenunley]

Vans aircraft charged me $80 to ship a $71 air scoop without telling me how 
much shipping would cost!
I did my due diligence to select the appropriate scoop for my cowling and 
engine size. I received valuable input from my friends on krnet. ?I weighted 
the cost of materials and time to build it myself and decided $71 was a great 
deal. Vans doesn't list a shipping bid online so I called them to ask what it 
might cost to ship the air scoop to my address and was told $36. ? I ordered 
online and received an email listing shipping as $80! ?
I will gladly share my bad experience with Vans to anyone who will listen. ?I'm 
glad to be building a KR2!
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Leif G Alstadsæter]

Hi Sid
I'm not a expert,but I can tell what I do with my plane.
I have a Defiant, a 2 engine push/pull. We have 2 engine 0360 as give 200 hp 
each
The front cowling we use in the front are the same hole as from Lancair. They 
are pretty to look at and the hole are just small. I use 1:3to 3,5 in/out. Work 
perfect.
The rear engine I get some problem with, some ot the cylinder work little to 
hot. I open up more air out on the top of the cowling, since
air in come from botten ot the cowling. Work perfect, and I guess the number 
are 1:3,5.

My building on my KR go to the stage as I will start to put in instruments. I 
just love to work with little bird, and I'm looking forward to 
Meet everone on the gathering.

Regard
Leif




> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 15:31:05 -0400
> Subject: Re: KR> Cowling Air Scoop
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: smwood at md.metrocast.net
> 
> I did not have room for an extra oil cooler or one larger oil cooler on the 
> firewall.  So elected to use the Revmaster oil cooler.  The Revmaster oil 
> pump flows 50% more oil; perhaps that does the trick, don't know for sure. 
> The Revmaster spring temperature regulator does work as advertised keeping 
> the oil temperature at 170 degrees F.
> 
> The air inlets for the engine cylinders are approximately 2-1/4 x 6 inches 
> each.  Fiberglass ducts direct air to VW metal shrouds ($26 for a pair) 
> which in turn direct the cooling air down onto the cylinders just like the 
> Beetle car installation.  Definitely use the cool tins too.  The single 
> inlet for the oil cooler, is 2-1/4 x 10 inches.
> The ratio of the total areas of inlet area for both the cylinder head 
> cooling ducts and the oil cooler inlet on the front of the cowl compared to 
> the single outlet at the bottom rear of the cowl is 1 to 1.45.  The oil 
> cooler inlet is on a flat face square into the wind stream just below the 
> prop; seemed like a high pressure location to me.  The outlet has a ramp at 
> the bottom of the cowl to get the warm air out into the low pressure 
> location behind the cowl (inspired by Mark L.).  The four exhaust pipes 
> terminate in two ramps at the bottom edge of the cowl to provide 
> augmentation of the outlet air flow (similar to the T-34B).  I was 
> definitely avoiding the kind of outlet found on the bottom of Cessna type 
> cowls; these seem to have a huge hole on the bottom and hope the air gets 
> out some how.  Conventional wisdom says the outlet ratio should be 2.5 to 1. 
> This is not a pressure cowl, conventional installation.  My goal was to 
> minimize cooling drag.
> Cylinder head temperatures vary from one cylinder to another about 10 
> degrees F.  After about a 5 minute warm up, the head temperatures stabilize 
> from 340 to 355 degrees F depending on throttle setting.  Steve Bennett 
> recommended 350 degrees F.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> > https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
> 
> Hi Sid
> I just look at your photo of your cowling,
> I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
> compare to the area back of the cowling?
> Regard
> Leif
> NORWAY
> 
> 
> Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of the 
> areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.
> 
> 
> Sid,Had same issues with the 7500BTU cooler from GPAS so I bought another
> 7500BTU cooler and put them in series.Worked much better.They have a
> 15000BTU unit that would have done the trick but I was able to stack the 2
> and may have saved a little space.Tommy W.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Sid Wood]

I did not have room for an extra oil cooler or one larger oil cooler on the 
firewall.  So elected to use the Revmaster oil cooler.  The Revmaster oil 
pump flows 50% more oil; perhaps that does the trick, don't know for sure. 
The Revmaster spring temperature regulator does work as advertised keeping 
the oil temperature at 170 degrees F.

The air inlets for the engine cylinders are approximately 2-1/4 x 6 inches 
each.  Fiberglass ducts direct air to VW metal shrouds ($26 for a pair) 
which in turn direct the cooling air down onto the cylinders just like the 
Beetle car installation.  Definitely use the cool tins too.  The single 
inlet for the oil cooler, is 2-1/4 x 10 inches.
The ratio of the total areas of inlet area for both the cylinder head 
cooling ducts and the oil cooler inlet on the front of the cowl compared to 
the single outlet at the bottom rear of the cowl is 1 to 1.45.  The oil 
cooler inlet is on a flat face square into the wind stream just below the 
prop; seemed like a high pressure location to me.  The outlet has a ramp at 
the bottom of the cowl to get the warm air out into the low pressure 
location behind the cowl (inspired by Mark L.).  The four exhaust pipes 
terminate in two ramps at the bottom edge of the cowl to provide 
augmentation of the outlet air flow (similar to the T-34B).  I was 
definitely avoiding the kind of outlet found on the bottom of Cessna type 
cowls; these seem to have a huge hole on the bottom and hope the air gets 
out some how.  Conventional wisdom says the outlet ratio should be 2.5 to 1. 
This is not a pressure cowl, conventional installation.  My goal was to 
minimize cooling drag.
Cylinder head temperatures vary from one cylinder to another about 10 
degrees F.  After about a 5 minute warm up, the head temperatures stabilize 
from 340 to 355 degrees F depending on throttle setting.  Steve Bennett 
recommended 350 degrees F.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


-Original Message- 
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg

Hi Sid
I just look at your photo of your cowling,
I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
compare to the area back of the cowling?
Regard
Leif
NORWAY


Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of the 
areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.


Sid,Had same issues with the 7500BTU cooler from GPAS so I bought another
7500BTU cooler and put them in series.Worked much better.They have a
15000BTU unit that would have done the trick but I was able to stack the 2
and may have saved a little space.Tommy W.

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Bill Jacobs]

Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of the 
areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl. 

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 3:58 AM, Leif G Alstads?ter via KRnet  wrote:


 Hi Sid
I just look at your photo of your cowling,
I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
compare to the area back of the cowling?
Regard
Leif
NORWAY

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Tommy Waymack]

Sid,Had same issues with the 7500BTU cooler from GPAS so I bought another
7500BTU cooler and put them in series.Worked much better.They have a
15000BTU unit that would have done the trick but I was able to stack the 2
and may have saved a little space.Tommy W.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 7:30 AM, Bill Jacobs via KRnet  wrote:

> Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of
> the areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.
>
> On Thursday, June 30, 2016 3:58 AM, Leif G Alstads?ter via KRnet <
> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
>
>
>  Hi Sid
> I just look at your photo of your cowling,
> I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
> compare to the area back of the cowling?
> Regard
> Leif
> NORWAY
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Leif G Alstadsæter]

Hi Sid
I just look at your photo of your cowling,
I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
compare to the area back of the cowling?
Regard
Leif
NORWAY

> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:34:53 -0400
> Subject: Re: KR> Cowling Air Scoop
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: smwood at md.metrocast.net
> 
> I had oil cooling issues on my GPASC 2180 VW.  Just could not flow enough 
> air through the firewall mounted oil cooler.  The cooler was probably too 
> small (3x4x10 inches).  Took it all out and installed a Revmaster oil pump 
> and cooler.  Part of the Revmaster kit is a new oil pressure control, 
> temperature sensitive spring, spin on oil filter and mechanical fuel pump 
> all mounted on the bottom and front of the GPASC VW.  This cooler is about 3 
> times the size of the old GPASC cooler.  The rectangular air inlet fits the 
> Revmaster supplied box for the cooler and I modified it to also supply carb 
> air, cool air for the Compufire ignition, alternator regulator and 
> gascolator, and warm air for cabin heat (no more exhaust muff heat).  Air 
> outlet from the cowl is a ramp at the bottom of the fire wall 2 inches high 
> and 22 inches wide.  Summer or winter, the oil temperature now remains at 
> 170 degrees F.  Running the fuel lines along the bottom of the engine to and 
> from the new fuel pump has eliminated the vapor lock issue when shutting 
> down for refueling for ten minutes and attempting to restart.  Fire sleeves 
> on the top mounted hoses and fuel pump did not make any difference in the 
> vapor lock issue.  Not sure how much ram air pressure recovery may be for 
> the carburetor.
> 
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
> 
> The picture shows the fit up before painting for my homebuilt cowl.  The 
> green peeping through is from the green Styrofoam from Lowes.  My RR cowl 
> would not fit the Revmaster oil cooler installation.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> 
> Dear All,
> Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
> have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the 
> prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It 
> costs about $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
> I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and 
> I feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for 
> you? ?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I 
> could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if 
> it might work for you.
> Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!
> 
> Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Sid Wood]

I had oil cooling issues on my GPASC 2180 VW.  Just could not flow enough 
air through the firewall mounted oil cooler.  The cooler was probably too 
small (3x4x10 inches).  Took it all out and installed a Revmaster oil pump 
and cooler.  Part of the Revmaster kit is a new oil pressure control, 
temperature sensitive spring, spin on oil filter and mechanical fuel pump 
all mounted on the bottom and front of the GPASC VW.  This cooler is about 3 
times the size of the old GPASC cooler.  The rectangular air inlet fits the 
Revmaster supplied box for the cooler and I modified it to also supply carb 
air, cool air for the Compufire ignition, alternator regulator and 
gascolator, and warm air for cabin heat (no more exhaust muff heat).  Air 
outlet from the cowl is a ramp at the bottom of the fire wall 2 inches high 
and 22 inches wide.  Summer or winter, the oil temperature now remains at 
170 degrees F.  Running the fuel lines along the bottom of the engine to and 
from the new fuel pump has eliminated the vapor lock issue when shutting 
down for refueling for ten minutes and attempting to restart.  Fire sleeves 
on the top mounted hoses and fuel pump did not make any difference in the 
vapor lock issue.  Not sure how much ram air pressure recovery may be for 
the carburetor.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg

The picture shows the fit up before painting for my homebuilt cowl.  The 
green peeping through is from the green Styrofoam from Lowes.  My RR cowl 
would not fit the Revmaster oil cooler installation.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


-Original Message- 

Dear All,
Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the 
prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It 
costs about $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and 
I feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for 
you? ?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I 
could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if 
it might work for you.
Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!

Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

--

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Paul & Karen Smith]

Hi Joe,

I have a RV6 scoop and as with most things you get what you pay for.
I feel the quality of mine is a little below acceptable, a very resin rich part 
with numerous voids and very heavy for what it is.
I'm still unsure if I will use it as is or just use it as a plug. I like the 
shape but think it could be half the weight for use on a KR.
Paul.

-Original Message-
From: On Behalf Of bjoenunley via KRnet
Sent: Wednesday, 29 June 2016 6:13 AM

Has anyone tried the prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 
360 engine?  
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KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Jeff Scott]

?
?
The RV style air intake is a good idea and works well on the RVs.  For my 
O-200, it's backwards as the cylinder stagger on the Continentals is backwards 
from the Lycomings.  When I got to the point of doing an air box and inlet, I 
was tired of building and just wanted to get it done, so I slapped a snorkel on 
over top of a stock Air box for an O-200 and have flown with it like that for 
the last 19 years.  But I do like the idea of eliminating that snorkle down 
under the front and making a smooth front cowl, which is certainly 
aerodynamically cleaner.  Good idea.  I'll have to think that one over and 
maybe do something about it... some day.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


Dear All,
Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the prefab 
scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It costs about 
$80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and I 
feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for you? 
?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I could save 
myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if it might work 
for you.
Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!

Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Craig Williams]

Don't know about the scoop but I used the VANS baffles on my Colt and they were
reasonably priced and very well made.


Craig
www.kr2seafury.com


> On June 28, 2016 at 4:13 PM bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dear All,
> Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us
> have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the prefab
> scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It costs about
> $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
> I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and I
> feel that thier air

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Chris Gardiner]

Joe,
Yes, that is exactly what I used . Vans RV6 nose scoop worked perfectly on the 
KR factory cowl.
Cleco it in place and use epoxy and flow to bond it .
Fits the standard K round filter on the carb.
Cheers
Chris Gardiner

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 4:13 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear All,
> Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
> have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings.  Has anyone tried the prefab 
> scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine?  It costs about 
> $80, which it is hard to build for less than that.  
> I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and 
> I feel that thier air scoop would work.  What have you done that worked for 
> you?  I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I 
> could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if it 
> might work for you.
> Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!
> 
> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options