[lace] Bobbin tree
I used to put wound bobbins in a bobbin roll when starting a project, ven at home, but got really fed up when some of the hitches had undone. So I made a bobbin 'horse'. It's an MDF shallow box with an upright at each end the width of the box (about 2 and a half inches), and an inch and a half diameter wooden rolling pin cut to the length of the box between the uprights. I covered the rolling pin with cotton fabric so the pair of bobbins stays put when hung over the rolling pin. If I'm travelling with it, I just put it in the bag that carries all the rest of my stuff. It fits in just nicely. It's also got braid stuck round various edges to hide where I didn't hit the nails correctly when making the box. :-D Jean in Poole - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Historical notes on Lace
Hello everybody, Me too I agree : continue to speak about historique lace. In first, I am interesting and after it's easy to delete a mail, you don't want to read. And thank you to say so many thinks interesting on arachne list. Dentellez bien Sof in France with fog and wind. A good day to make lace or read a book (about lace of course) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Thanks
My dissertation on lacemaking is finally finished! So I just want to thank you all for your invaluable help and contributions. It really was most kind very very useful. Many Thanks Julia _ It's fast, it's easy and it's free. Get MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Bobbin tree
I bought a bobbin tree years ago that impressed me with its simplicity. It is just two wooden triangles made of thin plywood with a hole drilled in each point. There are three dowels cut the same length. All fit in a bag that is flat and takes practically no space when not in use. When you want to use it, you fit the dowels in the holes of the plywood and hang the bobbins on the uppermost dowel. Works a treat. Hanging a handkerchief over the top dowel would help keep the bobbins from tangling. Clay - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] plait technique
Dear Lace friends, I think it helps if you practise plaiting using thick thread first, maybe even using rope. Then you can actully *see* the plait you are making, and learn to tension correctly. I did not have any problems with plaits when I first started BL. I think its because I had plenty of practice ( years) plaiting my daughter's hair g! ( We use 4 strands to plait hair here as well as 3) I'm back on arachne after a long spell due to major personal upheavals. Its nice to see all my friends are still here, and also nice to see several newcomers. Welcome to the newbies, may you get totally addicted soon, and come to need your daily arachne fix vbg Best wishes Sulochona in Ranchi, India where it crossed 40 C ( thats a 104 F) yesterday. Today its rained !! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[no subject]
Dear Lace friends, I think it helps if you practise plaiting using thick thread first, maybe even using rope. Then you can actully *see* the plait you are making, and learn to tension correctly. I did not have any problems with plaits when I first started BL. I think its because I had plenty of practice ( years) plaiting my daughter's hair g! ( We use 4 strands to plait hair here as well as 3) I'm back on arachne after a long spell due to major personal upheavals. Its nice to see all my friends are still here, and also nice to see several newcomers. Welcome to the newbies, may you get totally addicted soon, and come to need your daily arachne fix vbg Best wishes Sulochona in Ranchi, India where it crossed 40 C ( thats a 104 F) yesterday. Today its rained !! [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] advice on posture/books to newbies
Dear Newcomers to lace, I think everyone on arachne will agree with me when I say that Please Be Careful of your posture when lace making. Work in a confortable chair and make sure your pillow is at the right height for you. You can use a table or have the pillow on your lap ( like I do). What ever is comfortable for you. It's all too easy to get so occupied with the fun of making lace that you forget to keep a straight back and a good posture. Also get up every half hour or so to walk around/ drink water. Exercise your eyes (focus at objects at different distances from you) as well. Make a habit of this right from the very start. That way you will enjoy many more years of comfortable lacemaking ! I'm sorry if I am repeating what someone has already pointed out. Also, there are*lots* of second hand lace books available on the Internet. Most of my books are secondhand, since I have limited purchasing capacity. Lace makers are all very careful people, so I found all my used books to be in excellant condition g. Enjoy . . . . Best wishes Sulochona in Ranchi, India [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re:[lace] historical lace
My apologies to those of you who wrote to let me know you have no interest in history or historical laces Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center Oh please, all I *do* is historical lace!! Usually earlier than what gets mentioned on this list, but still... That's the information I love to have! To Jeri and all other spiders who drop interesting historical tidbits on this list, thank you so much, I truly appreciate it. I tend to stay quiet, but as others have said I take in all the wonderful information that is given here and keep it all locked away in my little brain, ready to pull out when the need arises. From information gained on this list I already have a direction of research as to where and when and how England's lace industry started from - if I can ever stop making lace and start searching :) Please keep teaching us the history of the art we all love. Even if it isn't what we need to know right now, it is all good to have for future information. Chris - dedicated information sponge :D = . |\_ Eagles may soar, (: _)Xbut weasels don't get |/ sucked into jet engines! __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] never too many lace pillows
Hi all and newbies New lacemakers - as you have noticed from replies, one lace pillow isn't usually enough, and it does depend on the sort of lace you like to do (at a given moment g) as to what style is best for you. I started with a 22 diam. cookie pillow, and soon found that I liked edgings, and made a roller pillow, then soon found I wanted to try hanky edgings (with corners) and made a block pillow where the blocks can be turned instead of moving the lace (although some people prefer to move the lace, on their cookie pillow, to turn a corner, and they get quite good at shifting a work in progress, pins, pricking bobbins and all) I decided I needed to give hankies a break, and went back to the cookie pillow to try some 'motif' pieces but what I really wanted were the Honiton motifs, and for that a special round (as in ball) pillow is best, stuffed v. v. firmly with chopped straw, so I made one of those. And then needed to acquire the appropriate bobbins - great fun, tool and toy acquisition vbg Since then, have made a small bolster from a European-sourced how-to lace book with which I experimented with 'palms-up' method of lacing - and finally feel comfortable with it, if using Spanish bobbins; a large Midlands bolster (on which I'm making an edging); a square Midlands pillow - which is too heavy and too bulky to use without a pillow horse which I haven't made yet; an A-frame foldout travel pillow with a small roller for narrow edgings (and occasionally for travel...); an 8-sided block pillow that has 5 square blocks and 4 triangular blocks (because I thought it would be cool to have one - I don't use it much because it is a bit too big for my reach and the corners poke into me if I have to turn it to work...) I have purchased several sizes of cookie pillows made by others - a small one that is good for making Christmas ornaments, such as you would hang inside a ring, and a v. v. firm 50 cm. diam. pillow that is super for Rosaline and small Beds. motifs. One style of pillow I don't have but will make one day so I can try the method is the Spanish upright bolster. A French roller pillow, that would be nice too. Oh and I'd like to have a block pillow that has only 3 moveable blocks with support blocks to either side (because the temporary styrofoam device I made is falling apart). Sorry to have rambled - pillows and making them is close to my heart. Contact me privately if you want to know how I made any of them. -- bye for now Bev and her lace pillows in Sooke, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Bobbin tree
John Beswick in South Australia makes a wonderful little bobbin tree. It is a plastic tube about 7 inches long (don't have it with me to measure at the moment) with a cap each end. Take off the caps, and out slides four cross members with slots in them. Two fit together, in an X shape, for the base, the plastic tube gets plugged into this, and the other two fit together and get plugged into the other end. This top X has lots and lots of little grooves along each arm to hang your bobbins. Dozens and dozens of 'em. I love the thing. .just another satisfied customer of John and his portable bobbin winder and bobbin tree. Noelene in Cooma Who is about to go away for 5 days and will come back, I hope to an enormous backlog of lace mail! [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~nlafferty/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: [lace] preferred pillow and bobbin tree
Hi all Clay wrote: One of our Canadian members recently wrote that she loves them (Bev?) Close! Margot (Walker) my east coast lace friend - in reference to styrofoam and Noelene wrote: .just another satisfied customer of John [Beswick] and his portable bobbin winder and bobbin tree Mee-2 !!! The winder is an engineering marvel and a true lacemaker's toy; the tree - I felt I should buy it to go with the winder and find that I actually use the tree more than the winder. The bobbins don't tangle if the tree is firmly pinned in place (to an empty pillow, usually) and when you grasp the stem of the tree with a full complement of spangled bobbins suspended from the arms, to carry from A to B, one feels almost regal... In Canada, you can get the winder from Trillium Lace (usual disclaimers) www.trilliumlace.ca -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] preferred pillow and bobbin tree
Oops - Sorry Margot!! Didn't mean to slight you there - your preferences are too much like my own!! Clay Clay wrote: One of our Canadian members recently wrote that she loves them (Bev?) Close! Margot (Walker) my east coast lace friend - in reference to styrofoam - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes?
Good question. I already have a pillow (well, two, but one of them really doesn't count) and counting my last order over 100 bobbins (+, again, 24 that don't count - I'll explain in a moment), but I'm already planning on getting another pillow... The first equipment I got was a beginners kit, aptly described on Lacefairy (I only found that info recently, ;-(...) The Horror Pillow!! Numerous letters have been written about the horrors of the lace making kit. WARNING This is not acceptable at all, for lacemaking, and is a total waste of money. If you're planning on getting a beginner's set, make sure to go to the pillow links on Lacefairy (go to the pillows link and than My Pillow Directions etc. and scroll down) and look at the picture of this one so that you don't buy it somewhere... Weronika On Thu, Apr 22, 2004 at 09:10:40PM -0600, JE Anderson wrote: Another newbie question for you all. I am looking at starting to order my equipment and was wondering what people prefered for a pillow shape and which is considered most versatile. Thank you all in advance for your differing opinions! :-) Janet Fort McMurray, Alberta - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Bobbin tree
That is so true about cats. When I started weaving I was using a friend's floor loom at her house. The cats were driving me nuts and I was worried about leaving the warped loom unguarded at night until she flung a sheet over the whole loom. Even though they could easily access all those fun threads from the bottom, the cats didn't give it a second look...go figure. Janet Hi fellow spiders! Just to clairify about my bobbin fence. Mine has grooves all along both rails so the bobbin don't often get scrambled except when one of the kitties decides to smack the bobbins! To forstall these fendish felines I usually take one of my cover cloths and put it over the fence bobbins all. If they don't see `em they don't with `em! Trish in Scott Depot - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Thanks again everyone
There were far too many replies to my question to answer each properly so I hope people will forgive this mass thank you. THANK YOU - you are all so generous with your knowledge and experience. Unfortunately now that I know multiple pillows are the norm there is nothing to hold my impulse buying back, except ready money grin. Thank you again everyone, I am off to read and re-read all these answers... Janet Fort McMurray, Alberta - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes?
Thanks for all the pillow info - I'll need it soon too! ;-) I'm slightly confused on bolster pillows. I've seen pictures online which had whole doilies made on bolster pillows, which requires working in different directions. I can see that it's easy to work downwards on either side of the bolster, but how do you deal with having to work along the bolster on the top? Don't all of the bobbins try to fall down to the sides? Weronika (Pasadena, California) On Fri, Apr 23, 2004 at 01:32:20PM -0700, Patricia Dowden wrote: Janet wrote: Another newbie question for you all. I am looking at starting to order my equipment and was wondering what people prefered for a pillow shape and which is considered most versatile. Thank you all in advance for your differing opinions! :-) == Hi Janet, This is a very timely question for me. I have lined up a couple of large Torchon patterns (if you can call Eva-Lissa Kortelahti patterns Torchon) that I want to do. Some Spiders have mentioned that a cookie pillow past a certain size may be difficult or uncomfortable to work on larger pieces. And I have taken that into consideration. It seems to me that a rectangular piece on the order of 20-30 inches wide would best be handled on a nice long, large diameter bolster. No moving up, and the working area is right in front of you. Now I just have to make one. Bolsters are not normally found in this size all made up. So it looks like I am going to go into the bolster making business. I looked into acquiring an ethafoam cylinder that are used in physical therapy, but the diameters that are available are fairly pricey and not big enough just to throw a cover on and make lace. If I have to pad the roll, I might as well just make it from scratch. So I'll start with a piece of cement form cardboard tube and pad it with old wool blankets. Patty Dowden - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes?
Hi Weronika, Exactly. And that is why ending with a Cross and then a pin is so advantageous on a bolster. By definition, no pair should be twisted when you start a new row because the stitch starts with a twist instead of ending with a twist. Also, to respond to an unanswered question, lace that is made with stitches that end in a twist (CTCT) and lace that is made with stitches that end in a cross (TCTC) are indistinguishable. But you can't change from one scheme to the other without a lot of forethought. Peculiarly, I work the motifs in point ground CTCT, but I work the ground itself TTTC pin. There are as many answers to questions as there are lacemakers, so you will definitely find a way that suits you. Patty -Original Message- From: Weronika Patena [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 4:12 PM To: Patricia Dowden Cc: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: Re: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes? Thanks for all the pillow info - I'll need it soon too! ;-) I'm slightly confused on bolster pillows. I've seen pictures online which had whole doilies made on bolster pillows, which requires working in different directions. I can see that it's easy to work downwards on either side of the bolster, but how do you deal with having to work along the bolster on the top? Don't all of the bobbins try to fall down to the sides? Weronika (Pasadena, California) On Fri, Apr 23, 2004 at 01:32:20PM -0700, Patricia Dowden wrote: Janet wrote: Another newbie question for you all. I am looking at starting to order my equipment and was wondering what people prefered for a pillow shape and which is considered most versatile. Thank you all in advance for your differing opinions! :-) == Hi Janet, This is a very timely question for me. I have lined up a couple of large Torchon patterns (if you can call Eva-Lissa Kortelahti patterns Torchon) that I want to do. Some Spiders have mentioned that a cookie pillow past a certain size may be difficult or uncomfortable to work on larger pieces. And I have taken that into consideration. It seems to me that a rectangular piece on the order of 20-30 inches wide would best be handled on a nice long, large diameter bolster. No moving up, and the working area is right in front of you. Now I just have to make one. Bolsters are not normally found in this size all made up. So it looks like I am going to go into the bolster making business. I looked into acquiring an ethafoam cylinder that are used in physical therapy, but the diameters that are available are fairly pricey and not big enough just to throw a cover on and make lace. If I have to pad the roll, I might as well just make it from scratch. So I'll start with a piece of cement form cardboard tube and pad it with old wool blankets. Patty Dowden - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes?
I can see how cross-and-pin helps, but what if you're for example making tape, or just a piece in a Torchon pattern that doesn't have pins wherever two pairs meet? It seems like in this case if you let the workers go off the sides, all of the correct tensioning will be lost... I think I'll enjoy trying to change patterns from CT to TC or back - I'm like Tamara, I really like figuring out how everything works. Weronika (Caltech, Pasadena, California) On Fri, Apr 23, 2004 at 04:21:46PM -0700, Patricia Dowden wrote: Hi Weronika, Exactly. And that is why ending with a Cross and then a pin is so advantageous on a bolster. By definition, no pair should be twisted when you start a new row because the stitch starts with a twist instead of ending with a twist. Also, to respond to an unanswered question, lace that is made with stitches that end in a twist (CTCT) and lace that is made with stitches that end in a cross (TCTC) are indistinguishable. But you can't change from one scheme to the other without a lot of forethought. Peculiarly, I work the motifs in point ground CTCT, but I work the ground itself TTTC pin. There are as many answers to questions as there are lacemakers, so you will definitely find a way that suits you. Patty -Original Message- From: Weronika Patena [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 4:12 PM To: Patricia Dowden Cc: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: Re: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes? Thanks for all the pillow info - I'll need it soon too! ;-) I'm slightly confused on bolster pillows. I've seen pictures online which had whole doilies made on bolster pillows, which requires working in different directions. I can see that it's easy to work downwards on either side of the bolster, but how do you deal with having to work along the bolster on the top? Don't all of the bobbins try to fall down to the sides? Weronika (Pasadena, California) On Fri, Apr 23, 2004 at 01:32:20PM -0700, Patricia Dowden wrote: Janet wrote: Another newbie question for you all. I am looking at starting to order my equipment and was wondering what people prefered for a pillow shape and which is considered most versatile. Thank you all in advance for your differing opinions! :-) == Hi Janet, This is a very timely question for me. I have lined up a couple of large Torchon patterns (if you can call Eva-Lissa Kortelahti patterns Torchon) that I want to do. Some Spiders have mentioned that a cookie pillow past a certain size may be difficult or uncomfortable to work on larger pieces. And I have taken that into consideration. It seems to me that a rectangular piece on the order of 20-30 inches wide would best be handled on a nice long, large diameter bolster. No moving up, and the working area is right in front of you. Now I just have to make one. Bolsters are not normally found in this size all made up. So it looks like I am going to go into the bolster making business. I looked into acquiring an ethafoam cylinder that are used in physical therapy, but the diameters that are available are fairly pricey and not big enough just to throw a cover on and make lace. If I have to pad the roll, I might as well just make it from scratch. So I'll start with a piece of cement form cardboard tube and pad it with old wool blankets. Patty Dowden - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Fwd: [lace] CLG survey: no. of pillows
I'm deprived! I only have five pillows - a fact that I've just pointed out to DH, along with the statistical report from Canada! He's agreed that I've showed admirable restraint a fact which I'll remind him of when I see something else I want to buy Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia) Vasna Zago [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote Of 80 respondents, the average number of pillows was 8.5 per lacemaker. One person responded that they had 1 pillow only (1 pillow, 1 project at a time). Most reported that they had at least several pillows with works in progress. Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies. http://au.movies.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Half Stitch and Tension
Ah Weronika, You are not confused, you are enthused! Now, half stitch will mind itself. First of all, there is a single thread that goes across the row in half stitch. All the twists above are locked into place. The only horror that can happen is with the twists below the single thread. To fix any lost twists, examine the row of twists above the single threads. I always imagine them as a row of horseback riders with their legs over the single thread. The twists above the single thread are offset from the twists below the single thread like the alternation of a checkerboard. X X X X X -- X X X X Once you see the pattern, you can fix it, should anything go awry. Patty Ah, I confused the worker with the passives in there. I meant the passives. Especially in half stitch tapes (I really have no idea how to describe stuff correctly...), where the passives don't just hang straight from their initial pins, but go at an angle and sometimes change into workers... Well, I expect I'll figure it out somehow if I ever get a bolster (first I'll have to graduate, since such a big pillow probably wouldn't even fit in my room g). Weronika On Fri, Apr 23, 2004 at 04:44:42PM -0700, Patricia Dowden wrote: Weronika wrote: I can see how cross-and-pin helps, but what if you're for example making tape, or just a piece in a Torchon pattern that doesn't have pins wherever two pairs meet? It seems like in this case if you let the workers go off the sides, all of the correct tensioning will be lost... I think I'll enjoy trying to change patterns from CT to TC or back - I'm like Tamara, I really like figuring out how everything works. = Well, yes, I can see you are very analytical. Cloth stitch is pinned at the sides. Ground stitches are pinned at each junction. Essentially, threads are pinned where they change direction. In cloth stitch, the weavers are the only threads that change direction and so they are the only ones that get pinned. The passives are pinned where you hang them in because the passive pair is changing direction around the pin. One half of the pair goes up to the pin and one half of the pair hangs down from the pin. Everything gets more complicated after that, but you have to start somewhere. The weaver won't necessarily lose its tension if the pair hangs down off a bolster pillow because the pair is pulling against the pin which should not allow it wander off. In any case tensioning is a progressive action. You keep tensioning after every stitch until everything is how you want it. It's a constant process of adjustment. The passives are tensioned every row. But the tensioning in the current row also sets the tensioning in the previous row. While the current row may relax a bit, the next row will snug it up. It's a cummulative process. You tension and tension and tension again, until you get the lace exactly the way you want it. Tensioning is more of a process than an event. Patty - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] winding bobbins with a string
Greetings, All this talk of bobbins and winding has brought out this method again. For the newbies who haven't seen this, here is a copy of two messages from years back that may be of interest. It is most helpful when winding more than one yard per bobbin. It might come in handy some day. There's actually two messages, and two methods described. Take your choice. -- Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 10:02:37 -0800 From: Alice Howell mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [lace] Wind bobbins with a String Greetings everyone, The recent talk about bobbin winders brought up the subject of winding bobbins with the use of a string when talking to a new lacemaker recently. I promised I would write it up again and send it. This may help out with newer lacemakers who cannot yet afford a mechanical winder, or don't know which one they want. It is also very portable. Winding Bobbins With a String Take a string about 1-1/2 yards long and attach each end to something sturdy. (I like to use the 2 arms of my recliner and pin the string to each one.) Two sturdy chairs work, or one chair and a table leg, etc. The string should be fairly taut, but have some give in it. A movable chair or a pin allows adjustment to be easily made to the tautness of the string. Start the thread on the bobbin, winding a few times until it is attached. Holding the bobbin with the head away from you, reach across the string and tuck the body of the bobbin under the string. Then twist the end of the bobbin up (to the left), over and again under the string while holding on to the head. You should end up with a loop of the string going around the middle of the bobbin, the tail pointed at you, and the head away from you. This method will work with either midlands or continental bobbins because the tail of the bobbin hangs loose. Realize the midlands, with spangles, may feel a bit wierd as you proceed, but can easily be done. I like the string to be about 1/3 of the way from the threaded section to the tail of the bobbin. The design of the bobbin may determine where the string lies best. Hold the bobbin with your right hand by putting two fingers on each side of the string and bending your fingers under the bobbin--sort of a cradle. Your left hand will hold the winding thread parallel with the string. I like to have a yard or so of thread unwound from the spool so it can flow freely. By unwinding the thread a yard at a time, I can keep count how much thread is going on the bobbin. With your right hand cupped loosely under the bobbin, push the bobbin to the left across the string. The loop around the bobbin will make the bobbin spin, and the thread will wind around the bobbin. Be aware that the thread may not wind up in very neat, precise rows, but with practice you can control it to some extent. Thread will have fewer problems unwinding if it is not neatly wound. (Believe it or not.) When you reach the left side of the string, put your right thumb on the bobbin and hold it firmly in the right hand. Pull the bobbin back to the right side of the string without letting it turn. The string will slide around the bobbin. When back to the right side, release your thumb and again hold the bobbin loosely with your fingers, and push it back across the string. (I guess that I take about 10 seconds a yard, and do about 3 passes across the string per yard.) When the bobbin has enough thread on it, remove from the string and tie your half hitch. The second bobbin of a pair may be a bit trickier. You have to unwind the total amount of thread needed, and start from the cut end. If you are needing only 1-2-3 yards, it is not much of a problem. If you need many yards, you need to develop a system of laying out the unwound yards in a manner that will allow the thread to wind freely without tangling. (I have wound up to 14 yards successfully.) A bit of caution on midlands bobbins. The bobbins that have a spiral design along the body of the bobbin may be more difficult to wind. The winding string tends to catch in the spiral, and travel to the tail end. The string has to be repositioned frequently. Also I have found a few bobbins that have such a smooth, slick finish that the string can't get traction on them. Glass bobbins also are slick to wind. However, 95 percent of my midlands can be wound easily in this manner. Continentals are very easy. If the string breaks, use another piece--very inexpensive to replace. I hope this may be of help to some of you. I have yet to buy a machanical winder because the string process has worked so well for me. Please write directly if this discription is not clear on any point. I will be happy to respond. Happy lacing, everyone! Alice in Oregon -- where winter is coming in very wet and cool. [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Marni Harang [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [lace] winding bobbins on a string I too use the string method to wind my
[lace] what to do with lace
I am very new at this, but I am making Torchon fan lace inserts (5 of them 5-7 long, 1, 1-1/4 2 wide) to go in the front of a peasant blouse to be made from cotton Calico-print fabric. I know, perish the thought, but I will probably cheat on this first blouse and use a very small, non-offensive purchased lace edging for the actual neck edge (too much yardage for me at this point), but I am planning on a Torchon pattern with fans spiders, about 2-3/4 wide for the sleeve edges (about 27 wide each). I am working in offwhite Brockens 35/3 linen with Danish bobbins on a bolster pillow (about 6 diameter by 15 long). At this point, I have done a practice piece to learn stitches, a bookmark to learn how to do the spiders, and about three 1 pieces to get the hang of the fans for the inserts. Cinde in pleasantly sunny southern California where the sweet peas and roses are blooming profusely, but summer is threatening to rear its fiery head - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Pillows/lace use (v. long, need I say?)
On Apr 23, 2004, at 19:30, Weronika Patena wrote: I can see how cross-and-pin helps, but what if you're for example making tape, or just a piece in a Torchon pattern that doesn't have pins wherever two pairs meet? It seems like in this case if you let the workers go off the sides, all of the correct tensioning will be lost... Nope. Traditionally, you work the open method (ending your stitch with a cross, bobbins untwisted) on pillows like the bolsters, or the Spanish uprights, where the bobbins fall off (or down) the pillow and are likely to get mixed up. The same gravity which makes them fall off, keeps them tensioned. But, if you're really worried about getting them mixed up (and, at the beginning, it *is* a worry g), pin off like Bev said. You pin off whole batches of pairs -- preferably logical sections. I.e., say, 6prs which make a trail on one pin, the workers and passives of the footside on another pin, etc (in Russian Tape pinning off is not only un-necessary, it's cumbersome, because it happens too frequently). Pinning off Use long, but reasonably thin (less damage to the pillow and the covering fabric) pins (until you get yourself some divider pins, the so-called corsage pins, available from places like WalMart, Michaels, etc are fine). When you've finished a logical section, and while all the bobbins are still spread flat in front of you... Um... I'm right-handed and pinning off is much easier for me to do on the right than it is on the left, so that's what I'll describe, OK? Pinning off on the left is a mirrored action (I'm not so good with mirrors, including driving backwards, but maybe you are) Slide the pin, horizontally, under all the threads of your section, right-to-left. Twist the pin down, then up over the threads forming a loop. Carry the whole bunch you've captured off to the side, out of the way, and stick the pin in. When your copy of Cook's Practical Skills in BL arrives, you can see an illustration of the process; it is the same movement as the first part of a double picot, but you're picking up many threads instead of one, and pinning farther away from your work. When that bunch of pairs needs to come into play again, unpin, carry the whole bunch to where they need to be, withdraw the pin and the bobbins will fan out, ready to work. Miraculously, if you withdraw the pin horizontally, after the bobbins themselves are where they're supposed to be, they're likely to arrange themselves just so, without losing/acquiring twists, *even if* they got tangled while hanging off. I use that method almost all the time when working on a roller pillow. There isn't a whole lot of room on the apron, the finer edgings are likely to have in excess of 30 pairs, and I like to have my pairs in use well fanned out... That's also one of those situations where a 6 leash is better than a 4 one; you need longer threads if you're going to scoop up a whole bunch of bobbins and pin them well out of your way. Unless... you're willing to lengthen and shorten them constantly, which I'm too lazy to do :) I think I'll enjoy trying to change patterns from CT to TC or back I had a lot of trouble at first, switching to the open method (first learnt from books which used the closed method -- end your stitch with all the twists needed). In the end, like it better, though don't use it all the time. If you're working with fine threads, it's easier to see that a pair has suddenly acquired a twist where there shouldn't have been any, then to notice that it has acquired one extra, and now has two instead of one. But it has a downside, also: even in the open method, you still start your cloth/linen stitch with a C, so you're constantly shifting between the two starts. What helped me... I was, at that time, counting the movements (still do, sometimes). Since I'd always started with a C, it became one, and so firmly embedded in my mind, that I couldn't change it. So, to start with a T instead, I went to music, and started counting: and, one, two, three... :) Re: using your lace. The subject comes up occasionaly, since most of us like to *make* it but either don't relly like to wear it at all, or else can't imagine making yards, and yards, and yards, yawn... of the same pattern... Samrah's (Cinde in Southern California - good to have you with us, Cinde) solution is a clever one, since she's using short lengths and different widths (before she gets terminally bored, she's onto something new), and she'll have something to show for it (and suitable to wear at demos in the future). I used to use my samples (intermixed with various, lace-related pins) to decorate a special pocketbook I made, but have run out of space on it, and will have to think of some other dumpster :) David (Collyer, aka Downunder) is an orchestra director -- he decorated his fraque (English?) with his lace and made a lace bow tie to go with it. Another friend has a gadzillion shirts,
Re: [lace] Re: Pillows/lace use (v. long, need I say?)
Thanks for the pinning off description. And for the accidental pickot description, too g - I didn't know you could do them by twisting the pin instead of twisting the threads around. A big part of my problem with using lace is that I dress exclusively in T-shirts and shorts (I do own one dress for when I really need to dress up, but that's it), and my ears aren't even pierced... I also can't sew at all - I could probably put an edging on a hanky, but forget about adding lace to anything as complicated as clothing... I guess doilies and random ornaments are my best bet. And jewelry for other people g. Also, it'll hopefuly be 30 or so years until I'm a grandma... g What are the different uses of different types of lace and thread? Weronika (Caltech, Pasadena, California) On Fri, Apr 23, 2004 at 11:06:10PM -0400, Tamara P. Duvall wrote: On Apr 23, 2004, at 19:30, Weronika Patena wrote: I can see how cross-and-pin helps, but what if you're for example making tape, or just a piece in a Torchon pattern that doesn't have pins wherever two pairs meet? It seems like in this case if you let the workers go off the sides, all of the correct tensioning will be lost... Nope. Traditionally, you work the open method (ending your stitch with a cross, bobbins untwisted) on pillows like the bolsters, or the Spanish uprights, where the bobbins fall off (or down) the pillow and are likely to get mixed up. The same gravity which makes them fall off, keeps them tensioned. But, if you're really worried about getting them mixed up (and, at the beginning, it *is* a worry g), pin off like Bev said. You pin off whole batches of pairs -- preferably logical sections. I.e., say, 6prs which make a trail on one pin, the workers and passives of the footside on another pin, etc (in Russian Tape pinning off is not only un-necessary, it's cumbersome, because it happens too frequently). Pinning off Use long, but reasonably thin (less damage to the pillow and the covering fabric) pins (until you get yourself some divider pins, the so-called corsage pins, available from places like WalMart, Michaels, etc are fine). When you've finished a logical section, and while all the bobbins are still spread flat in front of you... Um... I'm right-handed and pinning off is much easier for me to do on the right than it is on the left, so that's what I'll describe, OK? Pinning off on the left is a mirrored action (I'm not so good with mirrors, including driving backwards, but maybe you are) Slide the pin, horizontally, under all the threads of your section, right-to-left. Twist the pin down, then up over the threads forming a loop. Carry the whole bunch you've captured off to the side, out of the way, and stick the pin in. When your copy of Cook's Practical Skills in BL arrives, you can see an illustration of the process; it is the same movement as the first part of a double picot, but you're picking up many threads instead of one, and pinning farther away from your work. When that bunch of pairs needs to come into play again, unpin, carry the whole bunch to where they need to be, withdraw the pin and the bobbins will fan out, ready to work. Miraculously, if you withdraw the pin horizontally, after the bobbins themselves are where they're supposed to be, they're likely to arrange themselves just so, without losing/acquiring twists, *even if* they got tangled while hanging off. I use that method almost all the time when working on a roller pillow. There isn't a whole lot of room on the apron, the finer edgings are likely to have in excess of 30 pairs, and I like to have my pairs in use well fanned out... That's also one of those situations where a 6 leash is better than a 4 one; you need longer threads if you're going to scoop up a whole bunch of bobbins and pin them well out of your way. Unless... you're willing to lengthen and shorten them constantly, which I'm too lazy to do :) I think I'll enjoy trying to change patterns from CT to TC or back I had a lot of trouble at first, switching to the open method (first learnt from books which used the closed method -- end your stitch with all the twists needed). In the end, like it better, though don't use it all the time. If you're working with fine threads, it's easier to see that a pair has suddenly acquired a twist where there shouldn't have been any, then to notice that it has acquired one extra, and now has two instead of one. But it has a downside, also: even in the open method, you still start your cloth/linen stitch with a C, so you're constantly shifting between the two starts. What helped me... I was, at that time, counting the movements (still do, sometimes). Since I'd always started with a C, it became one, and so firmly embedded in my mind, that I couldn't change it. So, to start with a T instead, I went to music, and started counting: and, one, two,
Re: [lace] Re: T-shirts and shorts
Weronika said: A big part of my problem with using lace is that I dress exclusively in T-shirts and shorts Work a motif in cotton (eg DMC fil a dentelles which goes thorough the washing machine well) and sew it on to your t-shirt. Shrink it before attaching it. Then just attach at the edge pinholes People are so impressed by it!! Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] what to do with lace
Dear Cinde, This sounds a lovely project. When its finished, could we see a photo ? As for what to do with lace, well, I have embelished my cotton sari blouses with lace edgings ( matching colours) and motifs ( contrasting colour) - they become a topic point at gatherings g). One of my favourite uses in edgings for photos, they are well appreciated at special ocassions like weddings and aniversaries. Also made pillowcase edgings and insertions and motifs - one for my father and one for my darling daufghter. Table decoration and cushion decor. So many many doilies and bookmarks to give away - people still appreciate handicrafts made with care. I'm sure you'll get new ideas as you work and buy more ( and more g) books. And people on arachne will give you ideas, even what to do with your bits of lace samplers . . . Best wishes Sulochona in Ranchi, India - Original Message - From: Samrah [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 6:00 AM Subject: [lace] what to do with lace I am very new at this, but I am making Torchon fan lace inserts (5 of them 5-7 long, 1, 1-1/4 2 wide) to go in the front of a peasant blouse to be made from cotton Calico-print fabric. I know, perish the thought, but I will probably cheat on this first blouse and use a very small, non-offensive purchased lace edging for the actual neck edge (too much yardage for me at this point), but I am planning on a Torchon pattern with fans spiders, about 2-3/4 wide for the sleeve edges (about 27 wide each). I am working in offwhite Brockens 35/3 linen with Danish bobbins on a bolster pillow (about 6 diameter by 15 long). At this point, I have done a practice piece to learn stitches, a bookmark to learn how to do the spiders, and about three 1 pieces to get the hang of the fans for the inserts. Cinde in pleasantly sunny southern California where the sweet peas and roses are blooming profusely, but summer is threatening to rear its fiery head - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] Dewey-decimal system
Before training to be a teacher, I worked at the Teacher Training College as a technician, and one of my jobs was to amalgamate the books from a self-contained annexe that had closed down into the main college's library. We used the Dewey-decimal system, but they used another which used letters like DOB, GAL, BAK, etc - don't remember what that system was called. So I had to reclassify all the books into the Dewey-decimal system. Before I was halfway through, books became bricks which held no interest for me whatsoever. I didn't pick up a book to read for the whole of the year the job took - they were just oblong things that I hated. Because of that I was then put in charge of the library at the last school I taught at. Fortunately I had my own technician to do all the classifying. I've got over my hatred of those objects now, and just love books. Over a hundred lace books alone proves that. The one advantage it had was that, although I can't now quote the classification number for different subjects or tell you what subject a particular number is, I must have retained it subconciously, because I know where to go in the local library to find what I want, even if it's a subject I wouldn't normally read, without having to consult their list. Jean in Poole To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] Bobbin tree
Hello to everybody, I have gotten so many helpful hints the past couple of days! Especially the MMs in a cup. What a great list this is. My bobbin tree is actually made to hold finger tip towels in the bath room. It has brass arms (4) and stands on an Italian marble base. I bought it at an Estate Sale for $3.00. It is not at all portable, but is handy at home. Jackie in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, where spring has sprung. To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] :) Fwd: Pittsburgh
As my source said, not precisely brand new... And, possibly, borderline acceptable on chat... But it's *funny*... From: C.B. Three priests were in a train station on their way home to Pittsburgh. Behind the ticket counter was a very sexy, shapely, well endowed woman wearing a very tight sweater. She made the three priests very nervous, so they drew straws to determine who would get the tickets. The first priest approached the window. Young lady, I would like three pickets to titsburg. He completely lost his composure and fled. The second priest went to the window. Young lady, I would like three tickets to Pittsburgh and I would like the change in nipples and dimes. Mortified, he too fled. The third priest moved to the window. Young lady, I would like three tickets to Pittsburgh and I would like the change in nickels and dimes. And, I must say, if you insist on dressing like that, when you get to the pearly gates, St. Finger is going to shake his Peter at you. - Tamara P Duvall Lexington, Virginia, USA Formerly of Warsaw, Poland http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd/ To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
