Fw: [lace] Happy New Year and a question about thread length
If I have some expensive or particularly pretty thread left and I don't want to waste it, I use it up on a pattern from Suzanne Thompson's 'Torchon Lace Purse Pendants', which has been written so the patterns are easy to vary. I resize them on my scanner to suit the thread I have left, and they can be used for all sorts of things, from lavender bags to purses. I then use them as 'extras' when giving someone a present. Dee Palin Warwickshire - Original Message - From: "Brenda Paternoster" To: Cc: Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 10:21 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Happy New Year and a question about thread length Hello Sandy I believe I have read somewhere that there is a formula for determining length to wind onto bobbins for bookmarks. Four times the length of the bookmark comes to mind. Is this correct? It's about twice the length of the lace plus enough for the leash, so for a bookmark it will be about four times the length of the pattern. I realize that the workers will need more thread. Is there a formula for that too? If it's a pair that will remain as worker all the way just fill the bobbin as it depends on how wide the cloth stitch area is. Underestimating leaves me short and too much thread leaves the problem of the next start. I do not wish to have to tie threads for a beginning. What do you all do? I nearly always start with new thread, mostly because I tend to use different threads, colours etc for each project, besides it's just not worth the hassle of having lots of joins. The last but one piece which I finished I was using shorter than normal threads (because I'd cut it off and restarted) but the lengths of thread were not long enough and I ended up with lots of joins towards the end and it was a real pain. Err on the side of generosity when winding your bobbins it's a lot less hassle in the long run and as Betty Ann says thread is inexpensive in the grand theme of things. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1872 - Release Date: 02/01/2009 13:10 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Mixing fibres and gimp question
In message <654178.80006...@web51103.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Dona Bushong writes My first question concerns the thread. The pattern calls for Egyptian Cotton 80/2. As I said though, I'm putting this on linen. Does one usually mix fibers for the lace and fabric? I know from knitting and spinning that mixing of fibers can give different results when it comes to laundering. And as I hope this will get passed down from my daughters to their children, will the different fibers age differently? I'm working a Bucks piece (a one-off, of my own design) at the moment and using linen thread which is at the thick end of comfortable for the grid - when I hit a slub it is hard going. (Yes, I know, I could have used a larger grid but I want a denser effect on this one, I also have reasons for the thread choice!). The particular thread (Texere's Galway Linen) behaves the same as DMC Broder Machine - untwists with the movement of the bobbins so I have to keep a constant watch that the threads are not about to fall apart on me (which has happened a couple of times). I personally prefer to use a glazed cotton for Bucks, but find the William Hall 80/2 cotton produces a good result without the untwisting problem. As a weaver, you will know that there is a difference in the "handle" of the finished lace between lace and linen - and the same will go for the robe itself. The amount of drape and creasing you want may be a deciding factor between the two fabrics. If the robe is likely to be used in a hot climate, then fine linen may be a good choice, but cotton fabric may be a lot easier to care for and may give a nicer feel against the baby's skin. Because you cannot expect to be there when your gr.gr.gr.gr grandchildren are using the robe, I would go for a match between fabric and lace threads, to make washing/care as easy as possible for someone who may not have our knowledge, and would definitely not add the hassle of having to remove the lace from the robe before washing, then put it back, to the schedule of a busy new mother who may not be the best of needlewomen! Handing down washing instructions with the robe is a good idea, as long as it is kept up to date with the availability of washing products over the next hundred-or-so years. We have two robes - one made from my mother-in-law's (cotton) wedding dress, worn by my husband and eldest daughter, and a smocked silk robe and bonnet I made for my younger daughter (before I started making lace). As for the effect of the gimp round the honeycomb, without seeing the pattern, I would work a small sample first, looking at the effect of doubling and stop-start, and decide which looks best. Double would at least mean that the threads are continuous, and less likely to come astray over the washings to come! -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] "Lace for Christmas" pattern book
I'm so glad that all participants in the 2008 Card Exchange enjoyed the giving & receiving of friendship as well as cards, & many thanks, again, to Jenny for hosting the photos. I also hope that 2009 brings some wonderful "lace" experiences to fellow lacemakers around the world. Today I received the UK Lace Guild Calender that I ordered with the 2008 Christmas bobbin. There was an acrylic coaster with an assortment of different types of lace patterns as a surprise. I had also ordered the "Lace for Christmas" pattern book which has some wonderful ideas for next Christmas. Happy New Year, from Pene, in Tartu, Estonia, where 2009 has arrived with below freezing temperatures. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Mixing fibres and gimp question
Hallo to all, hi Jane, that idea of handing down the washing instructions is a real marvelous idea i think it might be even a perfect part of the design why not embroider the washing instructions on the gown? I think it is a real good idea and a modern touch to the total work besides the problem of linnen or cotton you can always choose for a not 100% pure linnen or cotton if you whoose a halfmix you can overcome sometimes the problems of shrinking or deforming, that is in the first place the reason why they began making mixes of materials in the "old-days" plus if you take a mixed thread of linnen and other materials you have less and less nobs of "horrifying"linnen structures ... francis Jane Partridge schreef: In message <654178.80006...@web51103.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Dona Bushong writes My first question concerns the thread. The pattern calls for Egyptian Cotton 80/2. As I said though, I'm putting this on linen. Does one usually mix fibers for the lace and fabric? I know from knitting and spinning that mixing of fibers can give different results when it comes to laundering. And as I hope this will get passed down from my daughters to their children, will the different fibers age differently? I'm working a Bucks piece (a one-off, of my own design) at the moment and using linen thread which is at the thick end of comfortable for the grid - when I hit a slub it is hard going. (Yes, I know, I could have used a larger grid but I want a denser effect on this one, I also have reasons for the thread choice!). The particular thread (Texere's Galway Linen) behaves the same as DMC Broder Machine - untwists with the movement of the bobbins so I have to keep a constant watch that the threads are not about to fall apart on me (which has happened a couple of times). I personally prefer to use a glazed cotton for Bucks, but find the William Hall 80/2 cotton produces a good result without the untwisting problem. As a weaver, you will know that there is a difference in the "handle" of the finished lace between lace and linen - and the same will go for the robe itself. The amount of drape and creasing you want may be a deciding factor between the two fabrics. If the robe is likely to be used in a hot climate, then fine linen may be a good choice, but cotton fabric may be a lot easier to care for and may give a nicer feel against the baby's skin. Because you cannot expect to be there when your gr.gr.gr.gr grandchildren are using the robe, I would go for a match between fabric and lace threads, to make washing/care as easy as possible for someone who may not have our knowledge, and would definitely not add the hassle of having to remove the lace from the robe before washing, then put it back, to the schedule of a busy new mother who may not be the best of needlewomen! Handing down washing instructions with the robe is a good idea, as long as it is kept up to date with the availability of washing products over the next hundred-or-so years. We have two robes - one made from my mother-in-law's (cotton) wedding dress, worn by my husband and eldest daughter, and a smocked silk robe and bonnet I made for my younger daughter (before I started making lace). As for the effect of the gimp round the honeycomb, without seeing the pattern, I would work a small sample first, looking at the effect of doubling and stop-start, and decide which looks best. Double would at least mean that the threads are continuous, and less likely to come astray over the washings to come! No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1872 - Release Date: 2/01/2009 13:10 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] "Lace for Christmas" pattern book
Hello everyone I have the book you are getting Pene. You wont be disappointed with it. It is a big THANKYOU I and I`m sure the other lacemakers wish to give you for your part in the Card Exchange as well as Jenny. You both have put a lot of time and effort into getting us sorted out. Happy New Year to everyone and I look forward to this years card exchange. Anyone out in laceland who have`nt had a go.Please do Its fun!! Daphne Bitterly cold Norfolk England. ---Original Message--- From: pene piip Date: 03/01/2009 11:46:34 To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] "Lace for Christmas" pattern book I'm so glad that all participants in the 2008 Card Exchange enjoyed the giving & receiving of friendship as well as cards, & many thanks, again, to Jenny for hosting the photos. I also hope that 2009 brings some wonderful "lace" experiences to fellow lacemakers around the world. Today I received the UK Lace Guild Calender that I ordered with the 2008 Christmas bobbin. There was an acrylic coaster with an assortment of different types of lace patterns as a surprise. I had also ordered the "Lace for Christmas" pattern book which has some wonderful ideas for next Christmas. Happy New Year, from Pene, in Tartu, Estonia, where 2009 has arrived with below freezing temperatures. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of imstp_animation_monkey_en_020908.gif] - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Mixing fibres and gimp question
This is primarily for Avital - just a quick question for my own information, but I thought others might also be interested I heard a program yesterday talking about the rules of Kosher with respect to fabric and it mentioned that linen and wool can not be mixed. One of the reasons given was that the Essenes (at Qumran) dressed only in linen because the invading Romans dressed in wool fabric. However, I'm sure the rules of Kosher regarding this was probably much, much earlier than that, and that the Essenes were actually just following the law. Also, during the Exodus they would have probably worn wool - they probably wouldn't have been able to grow a crop of flax in the dessert or taken the time to stay in one place for that long. To get to my question - does the mixing of thread only apply to linen and wool or does it apply to other threads? Would linen and cotton be ok because they are both 'plant' origin OR would wool and silk be ok because they are both 'animal' origin, but you couldn't mix cotton and silk any more than you can mix linen and wool? Malvary in Ottawa, Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Mixing fibres and gimp question
Applies only to linen and wool and primarily to garments. Sorry I don't have more time to go into it but it's right after Shabbat, so I have housework to do. No connection with the Essenes. Here's an essay I wrote long ago: http://www.angelfire.com/home/avital/technical2.html#woollinen Mixing other fibers is okay. Avital On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 6:24 PM, Malvary J Cole wrote: > This is primarily for Avital - just a quick question for my own information, > but I thought others might also be interested > > I heard a program yesterday talking about the rules of Kosher with respect > to fabric and it mentioned that linen and wool can not be mixed. One of the > reasons given was that the Essenes (at Qumran) dressed only in linen because > the invading Romans dressed in wool fabric. However, I'm sure the rules of > Kosher regarding this was probably much, much earlier than that, and that > the Essenes were actually just following the law. Also, during the Exodus > they would have probably worn wool - they probably wouldn't have been able > to grow a crop of flax in the dessert or taken the time to stay in one place > for that long. > > To get to my question - does the mixing of thread only apply to linen and > wool or does it apply to other threads? Would linen and cotton be ok > because they are both 'plant' origin OR would wool and silk be ok because > they are both 'animal' origin, but you couldn't mix cotton and silk any more > than you can mix linen and wool? > > Malvary in Ottawa, Canada > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Mixing fibers and gimp question
Hello Donna My first question concerns the thread. The pattern calls for Egyptian Cotton 80/2. As I said though, I'm putting this on linen. Does one usually mix fibers for the lace and fabric? Most people would find it acceptable to put cotton lace onto linen fabric, but it is a question of personal choice though I would definitely pre-shrink both the lace and the fabric before attaching the lace - and, if the lace isn't gathered then ease it to the fabric to allow for the possibility of a bit more shrinkage.. The main problem with mixing the fibres is the colour difference, sometimes a white cotton gimp is very different to the white linen of the rest of the lace, which is itself a good reason for making up your own gimps from several strands of the main thread. Re substituting linen for Egyptian 80/2; finding a linen thread fine enough is going to be the main problem. I'm not sure if you can still get Bouc 140/2, but that was the finest available, and even so it's a little bit thicker. Egyptian 80 = 50 w/cm, Bouc 140 = 46 w/cm. However, with the finer threads 4 wraps either way doesn't make that much difference. Re the path of the gimps - sit down with (enlarged) copies of the pattern and mark in the exact course of the gimp threads. I don't know the pattern you refer to. I assume it's point ground, and yes it is OK to double up the gimps around honeycomb holes (no twists between so that the gimps stay close together) and that is definitely preferable to having lots of ends that could eventually work loose and look untidy. Whatever you decide on this is going to be a big project so it will be worth the effort of making samples of the lace, partly to see if you like the effect of whichever threads you choose and pertly to see how it attaches to your fabric. Good luck! Brenda I know from knitting and spinning that mixing of fibers can give different results when it comes to laundering. And as I hope this will get passed down from my daughters to their children, will the different fibers age differently? If I should use a linen thread what would be an equivalent? I have a conversion chart but it shows no match for a linen thread in comparison to the Egyptian Cotton 80/2. My second question concerns the pattern itself - the gimp actually. The pattern calls for 2 pair of gimp and where the "fingers" are I can see where each pair go. What I'm unclear of though, is the gimp around the honeycomb. Does or could one double up the gimp around the honeycomb between each pattern or would it be preferable to start and stop the gimp with each pattern? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Mixing fibers and gimp question
Late to the dinner table but, since I actually have the book and am looking at the pattern (the edging version)... On Jan 2, 2009, at 20:37, Dona Bushong wrote: My first question concerns the thread. I wouldn't mix -- as you say, there's the problem of laundering and there's the problem of aging (changing colour) differently. I'd get the finest linen thread you can find (some vendors may have leftover 140 -- not enough to advertise in their catalogue but enough for your project. Ask around) and enlarge the pattern to match. If that makes the pattern too wide for your needs, it's an easy one to make narrower -- just omit the second row of tallies and place the footside thre instead. My second question concerns the pattern itself - the gimp actually. The pattern calls for 2 pair of gimp and where the "fingers" are I can see where each pair go. What I'm unclear of though, is the gimp around the honeycomb. It's *definitely* doubled and continuous. The thread which makes the petals (fingers) and the tread which outlines the centre of the flower on one side combine and are treated as one gimp thread for the crossing with the (again, combined) "thread" coming from the other side of the flower. The combined threads then outline the honecomb hole between the flowers, always treated as a single gimp. If you look closely at the pattern in the book, you'll notice that those honecomb holes stand out more (look brighter) than the rest; that's caused by the greater thickness of the gimp. You might want to mark each pair (which will be treated as one) with a differently coloured butterfly hair clip, so that they don't get mixed up at the crossings. Good luck; it's a lovely pattern, which will look good both straight and gathered. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Spider Raffle
Have had a great response to my spider raffle and got 34 entries and the winner is Janice Blair, congratulations Janice could you please send me your snail mail address so that I can post you the spider. Just wish that I had more spiders to give away. Sue M Harvey Norfolk UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Dressing the New York Ballet
Not lace but, as great-granddaughter and granddaughter of taylors, a daughter of a dressmaker and a textile maniac in her own right, I found this interesting: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/03/arts/dance/03cost.html -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
