Re: [lace] raised and rolled
Hi Karen I was told a more precise definition by the lady who gave me a taster day in Honiton many many years ago, and several years before I studied it first with Pat Read and then Pat Perryman. I was told partly raised is basically flat work, except all the sewings are done as top sewings, leaving the clean footside edge lines slightly proud on the right side. This makes a bigger difference to the piece of lace than you would think. Raised work is when ribs are used, for example up one side of a leaf, and the cloth or half stitch is sewn into it on the return journey. What I don't think it tells you in the books, but the teachers do, face to face, is that unless you are absolutely confident with sewings, twist your leader four times before the edge stitch, pin, work the edge stitch as usual then put a fourth twist on the returning leader. This extra twist makes the pinhole slightly larger and helps offset the way the rib pinholes tend to close up, probably because the work isn't supported on the other edge. Rolled work is when you carry a bundle of threads from one place to another, sewing them along the edge of existing work. It can be done for purely functional purposes, purely decorative or a combination. Unlike Withof and Milanese, these rolls are mainly "inside" the work, whereas in the other two laces the roll outlines the design features and is as commonly found on the outside edge as within the design. So, in Honiton you may work half a leaf, sew the bundle of threads along the vein side of the leaf to get all the pairs back to the top, and then work the second half of the leaf over the back of the bundle, which disappears for the time being until you turn the finished work over - TaDa. Raised work makes pinholes for the next piece to sew into, rolled work needs pinholes already there. Sometimes the two are used in combination, most commonly for leaf veins, where an off-shoot rib is worked at an angle to the main one, and then a roll bring the pairs back again. Later cloth or half stitch is worked over the back of the whole caboocle. Enjoy your Honiton lacemaking Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Orts
If Jeri can find written evidence of "ort" pre 2000, the OED will change their reference. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Bamboo and milk yarns
A few websites with info about these newer fibres are: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/cyarn/products.asp http://www.bambrotex.com/second/showroom_fiber.htm http://www.cyarn.com/products/fiber/fiber_036.html I am coming up against the problem of where to list them in Threads for Lace. Blended yarns go into the section appropriate to the highest percentage, so 70%cotton 30% bamboo is listed under cotton, but what about 100% bamboo? In Addendum5 I've included it with 'linen and other bast fibres' but according to http://www.bambrotex.com/second/bamboocenter_patented.htm "Bamboo Fibre is a kind of regenerated cellulose fiber, which is produced from raw materials of bamboo pulp by our sole patented technology. Firstly, bamboo pulp is refined from bamboo through a process of hydrolysis-alkalization and multi-phase bleaching. We then process Bamboo pulp into bamboo fiber." Other web info states that it is a regenerative fibre. I think that means that I should list it as 'synthetic and man-made' as it seems to be a type of regenerated cellulose fibre, ie a type of rayon. The end product seems to be rather similar to Lyocell which is a new form of regenerated cellulose fibre. Milk fibre I'm not sure about either. I think that it too should be listed as 'synthetic and man-made' as it's de-wateret, skimmed and wet-spun, but then again it's a protein fibre, so should it go with 'silk and hair'? Opinions please! Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Bamboo yarn
Brenda On some bamboo yarn I bought in America, it is actually labelled rayon from bamboo fibre, which I think is a much more honest way of describing it, and rayon is exactly what 100% or nearly 100% bamboo feels like. Someone I was talking to thought that it was made from the inner pith of the bamboo canes, and spun directly from the fibres there, a bit like linen. I wonder how ecologically friendly these new fibres are, by the time the raw materials are shipped to the factory, and then undergone some fairly major chemistry. They sound as if they ought to be, but I suspect they're not. Jacquie In Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Raised and rolled Honiton, now books
Also Cynthia Voysey's "Honiton Lace, A Practical Guide" This book is unusual in that it has many photographs of the lace in progress to illustrate the text, along with a few diagrams. Wherever possible, I would recommend that you have more than one book. That way you can read the same technique described in more than one way. It is incredibly difficult to write instructions so the reader can understand exactly what the writer means, so reading more than one writer's take on something can be very helpful. Where the same technique is worked in subtly different ways, try them both and see which suits you best in each situation. For example, I have three different turning stitches and use all three as appropriate. I am incredibly lucky to have had Pat Read as my main teacher. One day in class she explained that she would show us one way to do something, but other teachers might well show us other ways. The other way might suit us better, in which case she would not be offended, but it might also be the case that her way is best with one thread, bobbin style, or pillow combination and the other ways work better with other combinations. Just have a good notebook so you can keep all the options available. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Query about putting beads on lace
Hi everyone I've been playing about over the last few weeks with different shaped motifs in bobbin lace. Having found one that I liked I decided to make it again and add some beads. I put these on using a crochet hook and drawing one thread of a pair through the bead and threading the other bobbin through the loop as in a sewing. Of course, when I took the lace off the pillow the beads were now on the 'wrong' side of the lace. I have been wondering, is there a way to put beads on a piece of lace so that they end up on the 'right' side of the lace without sewing them on afterwards? Alison in cold, dull Essex UK (although the sun did shine earlier on making us feel so much better) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Bamboo yarn
Hi Jacquie and others who have commented on the bamboo yarn... I agree that the 100% Bamboo yarn feels like rayon... in fact, I think it essentially *is* rayon, made from bamboo... and I think the "milk" yarn is another form of rayon, but in the case of the yarn I saw yesterday, they had the sense to blend it with Merino wool, making it a lovely "confection"! The one distinction I could see in bamboo yarn (100%) was that it didn't have the glossy sheen of the old, familiar rayon, but a much softer sheen, which was desirable, in my opinion. Still, as I said, I think the blend of a more robust fiber with the bamboo would improve the texture and the hand. Clay On 1/27/2010 5:21 AM, laceandb...@aol.com wrote: Brenda On some bamboo yarn I bought in America, it is actually labelled rayon from bamboo fibre, which I think is a much more honest way of describing it, and rayon is exactly what 100% or nearly 100% bamboo feels like. Someone I was talking to thought that it was made from the inner pith of the bamboo canes, and spun directly from the fibres there, a bit like linen. I wonder how ecologically friendly these new fibres are, by the time the raw materials are shipped to the factory, and then undergone some fairly major chemistry. They sound as if they ought to be, but I suspect they're not. Jacquie In Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace
Hi Alison - Not all laces are worked with the "wrong" side up! I don't know what kind of lace you're working, but if it happens to be one that is traditionally worked "wrong" side up, then the question I would ask is... does it make a difference with this particular piece? In other words, when adding beads, you're pretty much defining which is the right side of the lace! If your piece has some other feature which defines the top side as the "wrong" side (such as a raised tally), then consider making that in a different way, such as rolling the worked tally topside instead of working over it. Clay On 1/27/2010 7:34 AM, Gray, Alison J wrote: Hi everyone I've been playing about over the last few weeks with different shaped motifs in bobbin lace. Having found one that I liked I decided to make it again and add some beads. I put these on using a crochet hook and drawing one thread of a pair through the bead and threading the other bobbin through the loop as in a sewing. Of course, when I took the lace off the pillow the beads were now on the 'wrong' side of the lace. I have been wondering, is there a way to put beads on a piece of lace so that they end up on the 'right' side of the lace without sewing them on afterwards? Alison in cold, dull Essex UK (although the sun did shine earlier on making us feel so much better) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] snakes in lace
Someone sent DH an article, with photos, of the November capture of a 15' eastern diamondback rattle snake at an outlet mall in St. Augustine, FL. (Worth Googling!) Now that would cure a shopoholic. BUT--he/she would make an excellent model for "the little snake" with Deutsche Platje (sp)!! Susan, heading for Key West today, the capitol of the Conch Republic - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Query about putting beads on lace
In message <271bed32e925e646a1333a56d9c6afcb58f313f...@mbox0.essex.ac.uk>, "Gray, Alison J" writes Of course, when I took the lace off the pillow the beads were now on the 'wrong' side of the lace. I have been wondering, is there a way to put beads on a piece of lace so that they end up on the 'right' side of the lace without sewing them on afterwards? I had this problem with Giles (my dog bookmark) and ended up either pushing the beads through to the other side, or, as Clay said, accepting that wrong way up was to be the right side! In the jewellery pieces I've been doing recently, I've threaded the beads onto the threads at the time of winding the bobbins, and slid them into place when needed. With only using a few pairs, and beads on each thread, you can do this easily. In a larger piece, you need to plan carefully. From your pattern, if you enlarge a photocopy, can you draw in the thread paths so that you can work out which threads will need to carry the beads? Using a different coloured pencil crayon for each pair will help you see which thread is going where - not always easy if you do it all in one colour! You then need to think carefully about how many twists you will put on the worker at the end of a row of half stitch, (ie whether or not the worker remains as such, or swaps with a passive) which ground stitches you are using, and any other factors that affect the thread path. If the motif is small, without a lot of thread on the bobbins, or only a few beads are to be added in the piece, you could unwind, thread a bead on and rewind, but that would be tedious! -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Bamboo yarn
Clay Blackwell wrote: Hi Jacquie and others who have commented on the bamboo yarn... Rayon and bamboo are made from cellulose, a natural compound found in plant material, which is reacted with acetate to make the fibres for the fabric. I love the feel of yarn made from bamboo cellulose as it is softer and much less shiney than that made from other plant sources. (I have knickers made from bamboo which are very comfortable). The 'milk' yarn is made from the milk protein casein so is also a semi-natural product, although I think it's production has a lesser effect on the environment than rayon and bamboo yarn. hth Lesley fronm a very wet and windy Marple UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Milk in yarn, etc.
Being on digest has it's disadvantages, as I lag behind, but I was to comment and see that Bev did already; that casein needle are a quite wonderful use of milk, but of course not impervious to breaking ... but then again, many do. There is definitely a trend toward luxe feeling yarns/threads, and we now see things made from corn, milk, soy, etc., which all have a lovely hand. I am certain there will be more to come. I think if a critter is hungry, they will as readily eat a milk fiber in yarn, as they will wool, or even cotton for that matter, but perhaps less so, as they are chemically treated, and smart bugs avoid chemicals, as Clay denoted. The main thing is keeping things clean, as food products and skin cells, attract more than anything. Which brings to mind, that I still don't see why many people don't wash their needleworked items more, from blocked/dressed (but unwashed) lace sweaters, and on. I can see the point with bobbin/needle lace, but it would perhaps last longer if dust and assorted, was removed at the onset. I lent my pen to another knitter at a yarn store recently, and was astounded at the returned item being so offensively grungy, just from signing her name to something. Then I think of these needleworked items, and cringe. Just as one's hair feels so luxurious after a fresh wash, and handles so much better (generally), one's worked items would benefit also. (Though I know most want the lustre and stiffness in say, bobbin lace). The problem with milk stains, is not just the protein, but the fat content, and there are benign things to treat that with, but as with any stain, better to get it at the onset, than later. The challenge with milk is, it's being less obvious to the naked eye, and with babies for instance, more profuse. When I think of old soaps, which were often lye soaps, they would be harsh to lace, and water in many places was hard, and had rust or minerals, which brings me back to the buttermilk thing again. Would it in some areas, be the purest thing they had, some of the agents within, actually help clean, and provide the yellowing quality that was so desirable at some point in time? Though some could color with saffron (expensive), or onion skins (hard to control evenness), milk would be a gradual cream, and the softening enzymes, plus fat content, could tend to make a fiber less brittle and last longer, and then starch applied for control. End of meander. Best,Susan Reishus - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Re:Lace Knitting Hint (Highlighter Tape and/or Stickies)
You can also use dry erase markers on a protective sleeve (that covers your pattern), but I think it is a tad messy. If you have your pattern on a music stand (Target used to have collapsible ones in a carrying case for $10), then it is close enough to see, but remote for your work. If working on a large pattern, I have long suggested trying a stainless jelly roll pan or cookie sheet with magnetic strips (which you can buy on a roll), which a music stand (or one of those book reader adjustable props, that are sold in student bookstores, or medical supply/back support shops.) Best,Susan Reishus *** I do a lot of filet crochet and I have used both the metal plates with magnetic markers and highlighters. With the highlighters, I photocopy the pattern first so I am not ruining the pattern, and use a highlighter texta (with a ruler if it is a large piece like an altar frontal), allows you to see where you have been as well as where you are going. Should work much the same for lace knitting patterns. Mary Carey Campbelltown, NSW, Australia - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Bamboo yarn
Hi All, I have watched this discussion with interest, as it seems very apposite! My daugher was given a lovely hat for her new-born little girl, made from 'Bamboo' wool, and so soft, it was incredible. I know nothing of the ethical considerations of the thread, but it certainly does seem very very soft, and ideal for a very new baby! Carol - in Suffolk UK 'Deliver us, Lord, from every evil, and grant us peace in our day.' - Original Message - From: "Clay Blackwell" To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 12:40 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Bamboo yarn Hi Jacquie and others who have commented on the bamboo yarn... I agree that the 100% Bamboo yarn feels like rayon... in fact, I think it essentially *is* rayon, made from bamboo... and I think the "milk" yarn is another form of rayon, but in the case of the yarn I saw yesterday, they had the sense to blend it with Merino wool, making it a lovely "confection"! The one distinction I could see in bamboo yarn (100%) was that it didn't have the glossy sheen of the old, familiar rayon, but a much softer sheen, which was desirable, in my opinion. Still, as I said, I think the blend of a more robust fiber with the bamboo would improve the texture and the hand. Clay On 1/27/2010 5:21 AM, laceandb...@aol.com wrote: Brenda On some bamboo yarn I bought in America, it is actually labelled rayon from bamboo fibre, which I think is a much more honest way of describing it, and rayon is exactly what 100% or nearly 100% bamboo feels like. Someone I was talking to thought that it was made from the inner pith of the bamboo canes, and spun directly from the fibres there, a bit like linen. I wonder how ecologically friendly these new fibres are, by the time the raw materials are shipped to the factory, and then undergone some fairly major chemistry. They sound as if they ought to be, but I suspect they're not. Jacquie In Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] FW: Query about putting beads on lace
Thank you all for your comments and suggestions, I can't wait to get home and try out Gil Dye's suggestion. Having never had a lace teacher I sometimes get stuck but I always find I get an answer from someone on Arachne. Alison -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of Gray, Alison J Sent: 27 January 2010 12:35 To: 'lace@arachne.com' Subject: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace Hi everyone I've been playing about over the last few weeks with different shaped motifs in bobbin lace. Having found one that I liked I decided to make it again and add some beads. I put these on using a crochet hook and drawing one thread of a pair through the bead and threading the other bobbin through the loop as in a sewing. Of course, when I took the lace off the pillow the beads were now on the 'wrong' side of the lace. I have been wondering, is there a way to put beads on a piece of lace so that they end up on the 'right' side of the lace without sewing them on afterwards? Alison in cold, dull Essex UK (although the sun did shine earlier on making us feel so much better) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace
While learning wire lace with Lenka Suchanek, here is how we added beads in the ground: hook both threads of one of the 2 pairs through the bead, slip both threads of the second pair through the loop of double thread. Adjust the pairs to have their connection inside the bead. The bead takes the place of whatever ground stitch should have been worked. Pin wherever it will keep the tension correct. This places a bead that is correct for either side of the lace. In cloth stitch or for a sewing edge, string the beads on the bobbin. For cloth stitch put the beads on the passives and slide into place as needed. For the sewing edge, the twists help to place the bead on the outside edge. Patty -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of Jane Partridge Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 5:37 AM To: Gray, Alison J Cc: 'lace@arachne.com' Subject: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace In message <271bed32e925e646a1333a56d9c6afcb58f313f...@mbox0.essex.ac.uk>, "Gray, Alison J" writes > Of course, when I took the lace off the pillow the beads were now >on the 'wrong' side of the lace. I have been wondering, is there a way to put >beads on a piece of lace so that they end up on the 'right' side of the lace >without sewing them on afterwards? I had this problem with Giles (my dog bookmark) and ended up either pushing the beads through to the other side, or, as Clay said, accepting that wrong way up was to be the right side! In the jewellery pieces I've been doing recently, I've threaded the beads onto the threads at the time of winding the bobbins, and slid them into place when needed. With only using a few pairs, and beads on each thread, you can do this easily. In a larger piece, you need to plan carefully. From your pattern, if you enlarge a photocopy, can you draw in the thread paths so that you can work out which threads will need to carry the beads? Using a different coloured pencil crayon for each pair will help you see which thread is going where - not always easy if you do it all in one colour! You then need to think carefully about how many twists you will put on the worker at the end of a row of half stitch, (ie whether or not the worker remains as such, or swaps with a passive) which ground stitches you are using, and any other factors that affect the thread path. If the motif is small, without a lot of thread on the bobbins, or only a few beads are to be added in the piece, you could unwind, thread a bead on and rewind, but that would be tedious! -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] raised and rolled
A few years ago I worked a piece that compared ribs and rolls (I prefer to do back to back ribs than rolls). The piece - the pattern for which is on the front of Suzanne Thompson's second book although I've not followed Suzanne's instructions - is on my website (quick way to get to the page is http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts/honitongalleryf.html then click on "Rib or roll?" on the left hand side). If you hold your mouse over a section it should tell you how I've worked the rib/roll for each section. Happy lacemaking Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts -- From: Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:13 AM To: Subject: Re: [lace] raised and rolled > Hi Karen > I was told a more precise definition by the lady who gave me a taster day > in Honiton many many years ago, and several years before I studied it first > with Pat Read and then Pat Perryman. > > I was told partly raised is basically flat work, except all the sewings are > done as top sewings, leaving the clean footside edge lines slightly proud > on the right side. This makes a bigger difference to the piece of lace than > you would think. > > Raised work is when ribs are used, for example up one side of a leaf, and > the cloth or half stitch is sewn into it on the return journey. What I don't > think it tells you in the books, but the teachers do, face to face, is that > unless you are absolutely confident with sewings, twist your leader four > times before the edge stitch, pin, work the edge stitch as usual then put a > fourth twist on the returning leader. This extra twist makes the pinhole > slightly larger and helps offset the way the rib pinholes tend to close up, > probably because the work isn't supported on the other edge. > > Rolled work is when you carry a bundle of threads from one place to > another, sewing them along the edge of existing work. It can be done for purely > functional purposes, purely decorative or a combination. Unlike Withof and > Milanese, these rolls are mainly "inside" the work, whereas in the other two > laces the roll outlines the design features and is as commonly found on the > outside edge as within the design. So, in Honiton you may work half a leaf, > sew the bundle of threads along the vein side of the leaf to get all the > pairs back to the top, and then work the second half of the leaf over the back > of the bundle, which disappears for the time being until you turn the > finished work over - TaDa. > > Raised work makes pinholes for the next piece to sew into, rolled work > needs pinholes already there. Sometimes the two are used in combination, most > commonly for leaf veins, where an off-shoot rib is worked at an angle to the > main one, and then a roll bring the pairs back again. Later cloth or half > stitch is worked over the back of the whole caboocle. > > Enjoy your Honiton lacemaking > Jacquie in Lincolnshire > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Bamboo yarn
One of the things about bamboo yarn or thread is that bamboo is an extremely fast growing plant, in both ways. Some bamboo strains grow as much as 4 feet in a 24 hour period, and all bamboo has the potential to grow to full height and girth in one growing season of 3 to 4 months ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo), and if you plant a hedge of bamboo in your yard, it will spread and take over the yard in a few years. So, a lot of industries are looking into making things (like paper or yarn) out of bamboo as it's a much more ecologically sound idea than cutting down forests, and a lot more economically sound idea than having to plant new forests and wait 10 to 20 years before they can use the trees again. With bamboo, it's ready to harvest and be processed into products like yarn and hardwood for floors in 3-7 years. Ob lace: I've never tried to make any lace with bamboo, but from what I've felt of bamboo rayon in the stores, if I could find some thread small enough, I think it would have a lovely hand and would drape beautifully for a ruffle worn around the neck. Branwyn, who is not part of the bamboo industry or the yarn industry, but likes the feel and drapability of the bamboo yarn she has felt. On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 8:40 AM, Carol wrote: > Hi All, > > I have watched this discussion with interest, as it seems very apposite! My > daugher was given a lovely hat for her new-born little girl, made from > 'Bamboo' wool, and so soft, it was incredible. I know nothing of the > ethical considerations of the thread, but it certainly does seem very very > soft, and ideal for a very new baby! > > Carol - in Suffolk UK > 'Deliver us, Lord, from every evil, and grant us peace in our day.' > > - Original Message - From: "Clay Blackwell" < > clayblackw...@comcast.net> > To: > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 12:40 PM > Subject: Re: [lace] Bamboo yarn > > > > Hi Jacquie and others who have commented on the bamboo yarn... >> >> I agree that the 100% Bamboo yarn feels like rayon... in fact, I think it >> essentially *is* rayon, made from bamboo... and I think the "milk" yarn is >> another form of rayon, but in the case of the yarn I saw yesterday, they had >> the sense to blend it with Merino wool, making it a lovely "confection"! >> >> The one distinction I could see in bamboo yarn (100%) was that it didn't >> have the glossy sheen of the old, familiar rayon, but a much softer sheen, >> which was desirable, in my opinion. Still, as I said, I think the blend of >> a more robust fiber with the bamboo would improve the texture and the hand. >> >> Clay >> >> On 1/27/2010 5:21 AM, laceandb...@aol.com wrote: >> >>> Brenda >>> On some bamboo yarn I bought in America, it is actually labelled rayon >>> from >>> bamboo fibre, which I think is a much more honest way of describing it, >>> and >>> rayon is exactly what 100% or nearly 100% bamboo feels like. >>> >>> Someone I was talking to thought that it was made from the inner pith of >>> the bamboo canes, and spun directly from the fibres there, a bit like >>> linen. >>> >>> I wonder how ecologically friendly these new fibres are, by the time the >>> raw materials are shipped to the factory, and then undergone some fairly >>> major >>> chemistry. They sound as if they ought to be, but I suspect they're not. >>> >>> Jacquie In Lincolnshire >>> >>> - >>> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: >>> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to >>> arachnemodera...@yahoo.com >>> >>> >>> >> - >> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: >> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to >> arachnemodera...@yahoo.com >> > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachnemodera...@yahoo.com > -- Per pale argent and purpure, two phoenixes counterchanged sable and argent each rising from flames proper. "It is sometimes the most fragile things that have the power to endure and become sources of strength." - May Sarton "Only a life lived in the service to others is worth living."- Albert Einstein "Out of clutter, find Simplicity. From discord, find Harmony. In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity." - Albert Einstein "And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom." - Anais Nin - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] bambooo ------ milk -----running frensh smelly chees........
hallo to all i had an email from several of you conserning the bamboo i have multiple reaction a few remarks ùmost what you will find id the stuff all of you are talking of so in this regards the bamboo you have to list as regenereated celulose from bamboo origine BUT BUT BUT be aware ladys and some men the real bambooyarn made from real bamboo fibres does exist aswell we have always offered this ones there are only 2 manufactures whom produce real bamboo like linnne proces one in france and one in japan i take threads but mostly sliver (the fibres already made in prespinning state) from both of them their production is very small for giving you an idea of exclusivity, they also make threads from Wisteria Sinensis we call them in belgium and holland bleu rain so they are realy specilised in special bast fibres the one in france is the one whom made our special ananas/pinaple thread they are small in producion it is easyly concluded that all the rest is celuluse the rerason is simple the proces itself is very very time consuming and also expensive from the original plant you have vertialy nothing left they often call it sifting a needle in a heystack that is the reason that this quality it is normaly used in the highend fashinon that is the reasion we need to ask 6.5€ for one of those small spools and we have a very small margin of profit on this artickle personaly i do not have any proble that it is mentioned as manmade because of the problems explaining it that you also have the real genuan thingh i suppose it is clear enough on our website that you have others non real products the bigest problem is that it is not so easy to see the difference the bamboo brakes down to extremly fine fibres you can in that matter compare it whit high quality sisal most know sisal as a very thick material you can not be more wrong that is for the bamboo i can tell much more but i beleeve i made myself again more then aple rudicule in English or whatever it is i type concerning the MILK: milk proteine is actualy chees/chedar kind of procedee that is then made in thread i strongly desugest you putting it in the list it is a experimental proteine fibre it is instable and non of the biger producers like bayer dupont etc are until now able to compensit the dificulties it is very very strong as fibre but it is realy fast attact by beast/coucarages and smaal bugs they see it as a supreme supper plus the biggest disadvantage is that it does nasty smells in contact whit water humidity it begins after a wile to smell like one of those frensh cheeses which came to live agian .. so i strongy dought that it still is available on the market beacause it is reacherced in the early 80 when we had in europe the big butter and milk surplus only dupont makes it for a medical utility there it is used as a kind of vales for harts .. i do not know how it works but ... it is the only use i do not want to be the BAD one but it is a cheneese enterprise they often pretend to have invented this or that and are cracks in reinventing boiled water or to envent the moon now that i am thinink about it teir is a very good study and whit result in real thread of goats injected so they make milk containing the same as spidermilk proteines it is then made into yarn but again this aplication is done for medical results so here it doesd not matter that it smells like and old swine ready to drop dead of its own smell again i know it is made into little hartvalves and aslo into some other kind of membrane for plastic surgery i beleve it is used as grafts or bases for grafts of tissue to grom cells into in forms etcetc this is very great and intresting but already to way of my own topic... francis - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] bam-milk
i forgot to tell tha tit is not from the imens bamboo you see on the link it is the small srub one whom is used when i find the name i put it in an email francis - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace
> Hi Alison I did a beaded lace workshop at Lace Guild convention four years ago - there's a picture of my sample at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/arachne/convention2006.htm and would you know the sample is actually right beside my computer as I type. I was having a tidy up a few days ago, found it at the bottom of a box and it's not gone back yet! We tried a variety of techniques. IIRC the seed beads which act as picots and those in the cloth stitch were threaded onto passives before winding the bobbins and pushed up into position as and when required. The bugles either side were threaded onto one of the worker threads. The big crystals were added with a crochet hook as you describe but the seed beads either side of them were more of those threaded onto the passives. The beads around the spiders were threaded onto a gimp thread (actually the same thread as all the others) and pushed up into position as the gimp was threaded between the pairs. The bugle over the cloth stitch I remember was very fiddly to do, but I'm not sure how it was achieved as it seems to cover about 3 rows of cloth stitch. It may have been that a passive thread loop was pulled through the bead with a hook, a couple more rows of cloth stitch worked and then the same or a different passive passed through the loop and the whole lot somehow tensioned. The beads at the bottom of the tassle were just tied with a reef knot and cut off. > > > I've been playing about over the last few weeks with different shaped motifs > in bobbin lace. Having found one that I liked I decided to make it again and > add some beads. I put these on using a crochet hook and drawing one thread of > a pair through the bead and threading the other bobbin through the loop as in > a sewing. Of course, when I took the lace off the pillow the beads were now > on the 'wrong' side of the lace. I have been wondering, is there a way to put > beads on a piece of lace so that they end up on the 'right' side of the lace > without sewing them on afterwards? Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] bambooo ------ milk -----running frensh smelly chees........
Thank you Francis for explaining all this to the Arachne list. Essentially the B&F bamboo/silk is real bamboo bast fibres but nearly all the other bamboo threads around are regenerated cellulose fibres. Milk thread is a bit gimmicky but has a use in medicine for heart valves and skin grafts as it is very strong. It is essentially a form of cheese and as such is very attractive to all sorts of bugs and critters. Maybe the junk food 'Cheese Strings' is really milk fibre! Brenda On 27 Jan 2010, at 20:05, Francis Busschaert wrote: > hallo to all > i had an email from several of you conserning the bamboo > > i have multiple reaction > > > a few remarks > ùmost what you will find id the stuff all of you are talking of > so in this regards the bamboo you have to list as regenereated celulose from > bamboo origine > > BUT BUT BUT be aware ladys and some men > the real bambooyarn made from real bamboo fibres does exist aswell > we have always offered this ones > there are only 2 manufactures whom produce real bamboo like linnne proces > one in france and one in japan > i take threads but mostly sliver (the fibres already made in prespinning > state) from both of them > their production is very small > for giving you an idea of exclusivity, they also make threads from Wisteria > Sinensis we call them in belgium and holland bleu rain > so they are realy specilised in special bast fibres > the one in france is the one whom made our special ananas/pinaple thread > they are small in producion > it is easyly concluded that all the rest is celuluse > the rerason is simple > the proces itself is very very time consuming and also expensive > from the original plant you have vertialy nothing left > they often call it sifting a needle in a heystack > that is the reason that this quality it is normaly used in the highend > fashinon > that is the reasion we need to ask 6.5€ for one of those small spools > and we have a very small margin of profit on this artickle > > personaly i do not have any proble that it is mentioned as manmade > because of the problems explaining it that you also have the real genuan > thingh > i suppose it is clear enough on our website that you have others non real > products > the bigest problem is that it is not so easy to see the difference > the bamboo brakes down to extremly fine fibres > you can in that matter compare it whit high quality sisal > most know sisal as a very thick material > you can not be more wrong > that is for the bamboo > i can tell much more but i beleeve i made myself again more then aple > rudicule in English or whatever it is i type > > > > concerning the MILK: > > milk proteine is actualy chees/chedar kind of procedee that is then made in > thread > i strongly desugest you putting it in the list > it is a experimental proteine fibre > it is instable and non of the biger producers like bayer dupont etc are until > now able to compensit the dificulties > it is very very strong as fibre but it is realy fast attact by > beast/coucarages and smaal bugs > they see it as a supreme supper > plus the biggest disadvantage is that it does nasty smells in contact whit > water humidity > it begins after a wile to smell like one of those frensh cheeses which came > to live agian > .. > so i strongy dought that it still is available on the market > beacause it is reacherced in the early 80 when we had in europe the big > butter and milk surplus > only dupont makes it for a medical utility > there it is used as a kind of vales for harts .. i do not know how it > works but ... > it is the only use > i do not want to be the BAD one but it is a cheneese > enterprise > they often pretend to have invented this or that > and are cracks in reinventing boiled water > or to envent the moon > > now that i am thinink about it > teir is a very good study and whit result in real thread of goats > injected so they make milk containing the same as spidermilk proteines > it is then made into yarn > but again this aplication is done for medical results > so here it doesd not matter that it smells like and old swine ready to drop > dead of its own smell > again i know it is made into little hartvalves and aslo into some other kind > of membrane > for plastic surgery i beleve it is used as grafts or bases for grafts of > tissue to grom cells into in forms etcetc > this is very great and intresting but already to way of my own > topic... > > > francis > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace
How funny - I just found my piece too, a couple of days ago. Nice picture of all us arachnians. Malvary in Ottawa where it is snowing great big fluffy flakes at the moment. Monday temp +6c, yesterday 0c, today -3c, tomorrow -4c, Friday -13c - Original Message - From: "Brenda Paternoster" To: "Gray, Alison J" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:34 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Query about putting beads on lace Hi Alison I did a beaded lace workshop at Lace Guild convention four years ago - there's a picture of my sample at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/arachne/convention2006.htm and would you know the sample is actually right beside my computer as I type. I was having a tidy up a few days ago, found it at the bottom of a box and it's not gone back yet! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] honiton
Wow, Susan, your lace took my breath away. They were all beautiful, hard to decide which I liked the most. I also took a look at your Binche and was in awe of what I saw there. Congratulations on such workmanship. Janice http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts/honitongalleryf.html then click on "Rib or roll?" on the left hand side). If you hold your mouse over a section it should tell you how I've worked the rib/roll for each section. Happy lacemaking Susan> Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Orts
I have the New Imperial Reference Dictionary printed in 1954 by Newnes and Ort, Thrum and Clews are all in it. Ann Blunden in Australia adblun...@bigpond.com - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:51 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Orts If Jeri can find written evidence of "ort" pre 2000, the OED will change their reference. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
