[lace] Modern vs Tradtional

2018-05-16 Thread Brian Lemin
Hi all,

 

You will know that I am not a lace maker, but in my patchwork hobby life, we
are experiencing the same slow evolution away from traditional patchworking.

 

When it first started happening I "blamed" artists taking over our hobby,
but now I see that it is a generational trait.  We are living in a modern
world where change is happening all around us, and our hobbies are part of
that change. Not because of technology but new people entering the craft
look at things differently.

 

I just recommend enjoying what you do and like, and have fun.  Don't waste
time on moaning about the inevitable.

 

I do know that there will always be a traditional stream in our crafts,
because without it people will have nowhere to go to be "different!! Smile.

 

I have to confess that in Patchwork , whilst I do make some traditional
quilts, I am considered as being "modern"  (sorry)

 

Brian

Blog: https://modernquiltjourney.wordpress.com/

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[lace] Traditional and modern lace.

2018-05-16 Thread Kathleen Harris
I started making lace in 1970, and in 1980 I started to learn Bucks point lace 
from Marjory Carter. I joined a week long course with her for several years. 
She was a wonderful teacher, and I enjoyed every minute. She certainly believed 
that Bucks point should always be traditional in design and worked in fine 
cotton, white ecru or black. New designs should always be “traditional” in 
concept. 

By this time I had started to design lace myself - not Bucks point - but trying 
to make lace “pictures”. I had designed a small picture of a sea horse among 
water weeds, in colour, of which I was quite proud, so, although it was not yet 
framed, I summoned up my courage and showed it to Marjory. She looked at it and 
said very little! But the next day she brought and gave me a frame which was 
perfect for my picture. 

>From this I realised that, although she loved traditional Bucks point, and 
>believed that It should stick to tradition, and she would only teach and 
>design it in this way, she was open to the idea that lace could be adapted to 
>“modern” methods and made in colour, especially if it was presented properly!  
> I think that this encouraged me to embrace both “traditional” and “modern” 
>lace, in whatever interpretation they appeared. 

Sent from my iPad

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[lace] Beiderman and Kliot

2018-05-16 Thread Sharon Ghamari-Tabrizi
I will ask Jules Kliot if he remembers conversations with Beiderman
regarding what appears to be Beiderman's disdain for modern art lace. They
published her book so there must have been appreciation at least on their
side. What do you know or remember about their relationship?

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Re: [lace] traditionalists and short-cutters

2018-05-16 Thread Adele Shaak
> some kind of tension between Gertrude Biederman,
> holding a traditionalist point of view, and Kathe Kliot representing a
> modern art-lace position

Even today, there is tension between the traditionalist point of view and the
modern art-lace position, but I recall the tension being much stronger in
times past (I learned in 1981). Well into the 80s you might be told - in no
uncertain terms - that lace must be made with fine white thread, preferably
linen though cotton might be OK if you aren’t making anything important.
Certain techniques must be used, others can never be used, and no, you can’t
put in helping pins. Pinholes are there to be worked, and extra pins are
simply not allowed. There were exhibitions that refused to display coloured
laces.

Then, along came the modernists, using all kinds of heavy threads or strings
in all kinds of colours, using whatever techniques they needed to get the
effect they wanted. I’m sure by now you have looked at the Kliot’s book
“Bobbin Lace: Form by the Twisting of Cords”, published in 1973; many
modern pieces are shown along with some traditional work. The Kliots also
edited and published Gertrude Biedermann’s more traditional book,
"Traditional Bobbin Lace: Patterns in Torchin, Guipure and Idria”. Same
place, same era, different views.

Hope this helps.

Adele
West Vancouver, BC

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Re: [lace] traditionalists and short-cutters

2018-05-16 Thread Cynce Williams
I’m no expert. I began learning lace in 1981, from a woman who had coerced a
German woman into teaching her. I remember Biederman and Kliot. I have Kliot’s
book on lacemaking. As far as I can see it’s a difference in gauge. Biederman
worked with the traditional fine threads and Kliot worked with threads that
were appropriate to macrame. Same stitches, different sizes.

Cynthia

On May 16, 2018, at 11:41 AM, Sharon Ghamari-Tabrizi 
wrote:

> Setting aside the very large pieces, what are the specifics *that matter to
> you lace-makers* about the difference between traditionalists and the
> modernists in the 1970s?

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[lace] traditionalists and short-cutters

2018-05-16 Thread Sharon Ghamari-Tabrizi
Devon seems to pose some kind of tension between Gertrude Biederman,
holding a traditionalist point of view, and Kathe Kliot representing a
modern art-lace position.

Yesterday afternoon I spent some time at Lacis in conversation with Jules
Kliot. Lacis is an extraordinary place. He was particularly interested in
showing me his book about Sprang. I am aware that his wife was a textile
artist who made large lace pieces and installations.

Setting aside the very large pieces, what are the specifics *that matter to
you lace-makers* about the difference between traditionalists and the
modernists in the 1970s?

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[lace] correction-Soviet Weekly, not the Daily Worker

2018-05-16 Thread Devon Thein
I mistated the source of the article on Russian lacemaking. It was
Soviet Weekly, not the Daily Worker.
Devon

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[lace] Lace in San Francisco, 1970s

2018-05-16 Thread Devon Thein
When I was the IOLI Historian I wrote some pieces culled from
information in the earliest publications of the IOLI. I was intrigued
that in addition to Kaethe Kliot, there was another major lace figure
in San Francisco, Gertrude Biedermann, who espoused a more
traditionalist point of view on lace. Could this be a possible source
of dramatic tension in a work of fiction? I never met her, although
she was very active, even writing a column in the nascent IOLI
publication. It was also the practice to contribute articles about
lace that had appeared in other publications. I was surprised to see
that Biedermann had contributed a piece about lacemaking in Russia
that had been published in the Daily Worker, a communist publication,
leading me to wonder about a woman who had traditionalist leanings in
lace, but possibly atypical political leanings. I had forgotten that
Biedermann had predicted the demise of contemporary lace.

I quote myself, "In,  Lacemakers bobbin' along,  the San Francisco
Examiner profiles Martha Anderson and Gertrude Biedermann,
"self-styled traditionalists and the only teachers of bobbin
lacemaking in San Francisco. They demand equal time in their gentle
warfare with contemporary approaches to lacemaking. 'It's a fad,'
Mrs. Biedermann says. 'I'm not being critical, but I think
contemporary lacemaking will phase out.  It reminds me of the
paintings you look at and ask, 'What is it?'"  Unlike most readers of
the San Francisco Examiner, those of us who are in the know, realize
that at that very moment, technically outside the city limits of San
Francisco, but in nearby Berkeley, Kaethe Kliot is cutting loose,
making gargantuan examples of contemporary modern lace and teaching at
her business Some Place, the precursor to Lacis. Kathe Kliot remains
unnamed in this article, but even Mrs. Biedermann concedes that there
are some issues with traditional lacemaking, "Mrs. Biedermann is
mildly indignant at the impatience some students show when they take
up lacemakingThey want short cuts.  They want to hurry...That
isn't possible in traditional lacemaking...It's like piano, if you
don't practice your scales, you'll never play the concerto."[i]"




[i] 1974, p. 64

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