Re: [lace] lace, Virtual lace classes
Dear Karen, I too am curious at how you're making out. Like Antje, the balance of a camera, computer, etc etc seems costly. I have been working with someone on very basic beginner things and it seems to be going ok but I can't imagine trying to teach finer laces via this process. Thanks for the thoughts so far. If any one else has thoughts or has come up with things that work without a lot of extra devices I would love to hear about them. Thanks! bobbi - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Copenhagen holes LONG!!
No idea why this came through so oddly sprinkled with weird symbols but here it is one more time. If it is still weird I'm sorry. bobbi Good morning all. I feel the need to jump in now and hope to help. The Copenhagen hole that Devon is speaking about is a technique only (as far as I know?) used in Tonder lace. It is worked on a diamond shaped pricking and is worked from the top down one side and then down the second side. I have seen holes worked in half stitch (CT), honeycomb stitch (CTT), and linen or cloth stitch (CTC). Each give a totally different effect. My personal preference is the honeycomb stitch (CTT). I think that the webbing is more attractive in CTT. They can be pinned with the webbing from the CTT or which ever you choose on the inside (most often) or the webbing on the outside (not so much). There are samples of this last one in my latest book. (Tallies and Pin Chains) For those of you with a copy of the book, on page 76 the holes are worked in Linen or cloth stitch (CTC) and pinned on the inside of the hole. In class we use the honeycomb stitch and pin on the outside. (other than this piece!) The process of doing the hole is the same regardless of how many pins are on each quarter of the hole. I have seen Copenhagen holes with 4 pins on each quarter from top pin to widest point pin up to 7 pins in the same area. The process is the same. The write up in the last book (mentioned above) I think is logical. Other differences between Bucks Point and Tonder are the way the gimp is moved in the piece and the way the valleys are worked. Having said that, I also think that we want to have rules for all laces. This is always worked this way and that is always worked that way. I have found through years of working with Tonder lace that this is not the case. Sadly, because we are only dealing with samples or bits of the laces we have no way of knowing _for sure_ one way or the other what the thoughts of the designer or the lace maker were. These two people were not normally the same person. So when I do reconstructions, IF I have a sample with more than one repeat of the lace the chances are good that all of the repeats are different. Some times drastically, some times very subtlety. But the question is always: What is the inspiration of the designer? Or is it the lacemaker that chooses the right pattern? Is the lacemaker given the pricking and then told to make it and she/he gets to choose if that section of diamond shaped hole is a spider, a diamond, in half stitch or whole? a Copenhagen hole? So many choices And who are we to say that a diamond shape with 5 holes from top pin to widest point pin is always a spider? Or a half stitch diamond? or a linen/cloth stitch diamond? Or for that matter a Copenhagen hole? On the design end... once you do a sample of a piece, even torchon lace, if you look at the finished piece some times you will choose to make something different in an area because to your eye it will look better. My personal opinion of the piece that Devon posted the other day is that although the head side motif is traditional Tønder that the piece on a whole is a mix of different laces. That or it is just very disjointed as a design. We have confirmed that the head side is in fact a traditional Tonder design. Pre 1900. Ok I've blithered on for long enough. Hope this was helpful. bobbi - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: Copenhagen holes LONG!!
Good morning all. I feel the need to jump in now and hope to help. The Copenhagen hole that Devon is speaking about is a technique only (as far as I know?) used in Tønder lace. It is worked on a diamond shaped pricking and is worked from the top down one side and then down the second side. I have seen holes worked in half stitch (CT), honeycomb stitch (CTT), and linen or cloth stitch (CTC). Each give a totally different effect. My personal preference is the honeycomb stitch (CTT). I think that the webbing is more attractive in CTT. They can be pinned with the webbing from the CTT or which ever you choose on the inside (most often) or the webbing on the outside (not so much). There are samples of this last one in my latest book. (Tallies and Pin Chains) For those of you with a copy of the book, on page 76 the holes are worked in Linen or cloth stitch (CTC) and pinned on the inside of the hole. In class we use the honeycomb stitch and pin on the outside. (other than this piece!) The process of doing the hole is the same regardless of how many pins are on each quarter of the hole. I have seen Copenhagen holes with 4 pins on each quarter from top pin to widest point pin up to 7 pins in the same area. The process is the same. The write up in the last book (mentioned above) I think is logical. Other differences between Bucks Point and Tønder are the way the gimp is moved in the piece and the way the valleys are worked. Having said that, I also think that we want to have ârulesâ for all laces. âThis is always worked this way and that is always worked that way.â I have found through years of working with Tønder lace that this is not the case. Sadly, because we are only dealing with samples or bits of the laces we have no way of knowing _for sure_ one way or the other what the thoughts of the designer or the lace maker were. These two people were not normally the same person. So when I do reconstructions, IF I have a sample with more than one repeat of the lace the chances are good that all of the repeats are different. Some times drastically, some times very subtlety. But the question is always: What is the inspiration of the designer? Or is it the lacemaker that chooses the ârightâ pattern? Is the lacemaker given the pricking and then told to âmake itâ and she/he gets to choose if that section of diamond shaped hole is a spider, a diamond, in half stitch or whole? a Copenhagen hole? So many choices And who are we to say that a diamond shape with 5 holes from top pin to widest point pin is always a spider? Or a half stitch diamond? or a linen/cloth stitch diamond? Or for that matter a Copenhagen hole? On the design end... once you do a sample of a piece, even torchon lace, if you look at the finished piece some times you will choose to make something different in an area because to your eye it will look better. My personal opinion of the piece that Devon posted the other day is that although the head side motif is traditional Tønder that the piece on a whole is a mix of different laces. That or it is just very disjointed as a design. We have confirmed that the head side is in fact a traditional Tønder design. Pre 1900. Ok Iâve blithered on for long enough. Hope this was helpful. bobbi [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of wlEmoticon-winkingsmile[1].png] - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Lassen question
Good morning Karen and everyone else. I've been watching this and have finally decided to jump in. Karen, attached is a photo/diagram. Starting at #1 you make the piece of lace. You finish at #2. (ha ha... can you tell I do a lot of Tonder? footside on the left) You over lap the two ends to match up exactly. You then basically whip stitch both layers together doing three whip stitches on EVERY pair of the top and bottom layer, moving from the footside to the head side and then back to the foot side. This way you have a good place to hide those ends of your whipping thread. This is a firm enough connection (not sure how well it holds up to lots of washing?) Then you cut off the loose ends of lace. If you physically put your hands together in front of you lay your wrists back to back (palms facing up and down) the wrist area is what you are sewing together. Once it's sewn you cut off the hands. However, before you start the whole process you must decide where you are going to do that join. Start above that join (this doesn't have to be pretty as you are going to cut it off) and the 'rule' is to do one repeat above and one repeat below the join. (see lassen 2) I have always used the finest thread I can get my hands on because I want the join to be as close to invisible as possible. Doing three wraps around each pair thickens up the area so the finer the better in my mind. Another thing to consider is areas that are easier to do that join in. Avoid half stitch areas like the plague. Linen is not much better. Ground is the best and around or along a gimp line is also good. I really do like this technique although it is not (as far as I know) attached to a particular type of lace. I would also suggest that you try it with a thinner piece of torchon lace first to get the hang of it. Flanders lends itself to this and I have had much success with it there. Does this make sense or just muddy the water further? Good luck! bobbi === What I am still trying to understand, though, is that once the extra piece of lace is cut away, what is there to keep it looking neat over time (i.e. not have a frayed edge)? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of lassen.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of lassen 2.jpg] - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Teachers or no Teachers
Well said Adele! bobbi - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: [lace] Re: [lace] Threading Needles with Pearl /Perlé Thread
Thanks for the directions! I do enjoy Jeri's notes. bobbi -Original Message- From: Lin Hudren Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2017 3:11 PM To: Jeri Ames Cc: Arachne ; David C COLLYER ; Susan Subject: [lace] Re: [lace] Threading Needles with Pearl /Perlé Thread I was sent these directions by a member of the Arachne group (sorry i didn't make a note of your name) which i did and they have worked to make sure that all of Jeri's postings come directly to me in gmail. i hope this might help others. i have sent it as mention has appeared but it seems that there is still a conflict. How To Remove Eye Bags & Lip Lines Fast (Watch) Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5a30678f4b4b2678e6855st03duc - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Question
Good morning! I actually did respond directly to Ilske about this but for those of you that are interested here is what I said. My information is from studying hundreds of pieces of Tønder lace from the museums collection in Tønder. bobbi Good morning! The degrees range from 52 to 60. The majority that I've done reconstructions on have been either 56 or 57 though. Hope this helps. bobbi -Original Message- Hello Ilske and everyone About the angle of Tønder laces, I have not seen an answer to your question. In the OIDFA Point Ground Lace study book, the angles given for pre-1900 Tønder laces are 56 to 60 degrees; after 1900 it is 57 degrees only. Does this help? Maybe someone else can add further information. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Lace: Point ground laces
Karen, we found the same thing with the Tønder samples. Many of the museum samples had been actually glued to boards at some point! One piece in particular that was only about 1/2 " wide by about 5 " long measured 5 different angles! So it's really hard to determine what the 'real' angles might have been. I would love to see what you come up with though on the point ground issue! Take care and talk to you soon. bobbi -Original Message- From: Karen Thompson Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 5:55 PM To: Nancy Neff Cc: Arachne Subject: Re: [lace] Lace: Point ground laces The angles of the samples are anywhere from about 33 to 68, sometimes in the same piece! Some of this might be due to distortion of the samples between being made in 1789 and being mounted on acid-free board in the 1970s or 1980s at the Library of Congress. Or the prickings might have been distorted by having been copied a number of times - or from the snippet of lace they made the pricking from. -Karen - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
