[lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-30 Thread Elizabeth Ligeti
This interesting lace seems to be a variety after reticella. If you have
Margaret Stephens’ book on Embroidered Lace – the basic structure is very
similar, - except she withdraws all the threads in the square, not cut to the
corners and fold the triangles back.
The stitches used are different, and the outcome looks different, but the
basic idea is very much the same – well to my eyes, anyway!  You can also
see a relationship[p to Sols/Teneriffe Lace, too.

I find it All very interesting, whatever it’s roots!

Regards from Liz. I Melbourne, Oz.

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Re: [lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-30 Thread Susan
Thanks for the clarification Lorelei! This is a terrific explanation & one I 
will print out to share with my embroidery friends. I wasn’t thinking about the 
process, I was focusing on the result. Thanks again. Susan 

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 30, 2018, at 8:15 PM, Lorelei Halley  wrote:
> 
> Susan
> I think the distinction between needle lace and embroidery is quite clear,
> at least in my own mind. But I am thinking of the structure of the finished
> object, and the working methods while it was under construction. If there is
> any background woven fabric still existing in the piece, it is embroidery.
> The woven fabric forms the substrate, the ground, which holds the thing
> together. True needle lace requires the construction of a temporary
> scaffolding, in the form of the needle lace sandwich. Now, knotted
> Mediterranean needle laces, both Turkish/Armenian and puncetto, don't have
> the sandwich or any temporary scaffolding, but they are definitely "stitches
> in the air".
> 
> There are several forms of embroidery which use the same filling stitches
> used in geometric needle lace: reticella embroidery, all forms of
> rectangular cutwork (including Cilaos), Hardanger, and even filet lacis
> (square knotted netting decorated with embroidery).
> 
> So in my thinking if woven fabric persists in the object as the structural
> framework, it is embroidery. If there is no woven fabric, it is needle lace.
> The really difficult one if filet lacis. The very same fillings are used in
> that form as in geometric cutwork. But the permanent grounding is hand
> knotted square mesh. 
> 
> There is also a problem with sol laces. Again, the decorations used may be
> the same as in drawn thread embroidery, or much more elaborate. There is a
> scaffolding, but it is hand made.
> Lorelei
> 
> Subject: [lace] Cilaos needle lace
> "how & when do we distinguish between needle lace & lace-like embroidery?"
> Susan Hottle USA
> 

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RE: [lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-30 Thread Lorelei Halley
Susan
I think the distinction between needle lace and embroidery is quite clear,
at least in my own mind. But I am thinking of the structure of the finished
object, and the working methods while it was under construction. If there is
any background woven fabric still existing in the piece, it is embroidery.
The woven fabric forms the substrate, the ground, which holds the thing
together. True needle lace requires the construction of a temporary
scaffolding, in the form of the needle lace sandwich. Now, knotted
Mediterranean needle laces, both Turkish/Armenian and puncetto, don't have
the sandwich or any temporary scaffolding, but they are definitely "stitches
in the air".

There are several forms of embroidery which use the same filling stitches
used in geometric needle lace: reticella embroidery, all forms of
rectangular cutwork (including Cilaos), Hardanger, and even filet lacis
(square knotted netting decorated with embroidery).

So in my thinking if woven fabric persists in the object as the structural
framework, it is embroidery. If there is no woven fabric, it is needle lace.
The really difficult one if filet lacis. The very same fillings are used in
that form as in geometric cutwork. But the permanent grounding is hand
knotted square mesh. 

There is also a problem with sol laces. Again, the decorations used may be
the same as in drawn thread embroidery, or much more elaborate. There is a
scaffolding, but it is hand made.
Lorelei

Subject: [lace] Cilaos needle lace
"how & when do we distinguish between needle lace & lace-like embroidery?"
Susan Hottle USA

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[lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-30 Thread Susan
Thank you Sue for sending the Cilaos links!  Excellent blog with lots of 
goodies, including a mini tute for Romanian Point Lace. The Cilaos instructions 
are super & I will share this resource with my friend. She has taken classes in 
Ruskin lace & the Cilaos looks similar. Not to put too fine a point on this, 
but how & when do we distinguish between needle lace & lace-like embroidery? 
Setting up the foundation fabric (removing threads) to be needle woven seems 
akin to setting up the warp (passives) in lace. Have conservators & museum 
experts drawn a dividing line thru a grey area to separate black from white? Am 
I missing something here? Many thanks. Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA

Sent from my iPad

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[lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-27 Thread Susan Vossier
Have just found this site:
http://blogdefloralie.eklablog.com/comment-faire-les-jours-cilaos-a48648384
where I learn that you can buy Cilaos look-alikes made in Madagascar - much
cheaper in St Denis market than in Cilaos!  (St Denis is the capital of the
Reunion Island)

Sue

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[lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-27 Thread Susan Vossier
Woops!  Tnank you Lin, I forgot the link:

http://blogdefloralie.eklablog.com/comment-faire-les-jours-cilaos-a48648384

I didn't say that the prices are astronomic because the embroiderers are
paid the minimum French wage;

Sue

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[lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-27 Thread Susan Vossier
Cilaos is on the Réunion Island, a French Departement

It is a form of very elaborate cutwork, and the centre where it is still
made (and sold at astronomic prices) is known as the 'Maison de la
Broderie' or Embroidery House.  Although a lot of Madagascar embroidery is
sold in the Reunion, I didn't see anything vaguely resembling 'les jours de
Cilaos' in Madagascar - but I didn't travel around a lot.

Here is a link to a site which gives basic instructions; it's in French,
but even without a translation the photos give an idea of how it's made.

When I went to Cilaos, in the pelting rain after a long hike, the Centre
was just shutting down for the day, so I didn't get to see the work being
done, just to buy the wine Cilaos is also known for (not worth the walk, we
poured half the bottle away) and lentils, which are better than the wine.

Sue in the Rhone valley (France)

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Re: [lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-27 Thread Karen Bovard
I see this 'Cilaos' pieces as an embroidery form, not so much a true lace. 
You are right that it is a form of Teneriffe/Sol lace in that woven & knotted
elements are worked on a foundation of weft threads.  I have seen this type
of sol-like embroidery in many older drawn thread work linens.  It is used to
embellish a corner. It appears to me that it is embedded in a fabric base, not
a stand-alone piece of lace.
Karen Bovard SayreThe ShuttleSmithhttp://www.TheShuttleSmith.com

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Omaha, NE/Council Bluffs, Iowa
   On ‎Sunday‎, ‎August‎ ‎26‎, ‎2018‎
‎10‎:‎23‎:‎04‎ ‎PM‎ ‎CDT,  wrote:

 I agree with Sue B., it's got to be a form of Teneriffe (Nanduti, Sol, etc.,
is there a single name to encompass the whole lot?).  Lots of local names for
the same basic technique.  Lay threads radially across a circular "frame"
(could be nothing more than a ring of pins, or could be an object designed and
devoted to this function), weave and interlace threads, usually in a circular
pattern, though and around the radials, then do an edging to hold it all
together.  I don't remember ever seeing so many fine threads bundled
together, though.  The thick, needle-woven rays on the outside of this piece
are like the needlewoven boxes in hedebo and hardanger, but are also often
found in the Teneriffe family.  Not usually so big and fat, though.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

Parvum leve mentes capiunt
(Little things amuse little minds)

 hottl...@neo.rr.com wrote:

=
A friend sent me a photo so I posted it to Arachne Flickr. Perhaps someone
knows more about this?  Cilaos is near Madagascar so maybe Sue Babbs is
familiar with the technique?  Just when we thought we couldn't find any more
lacy stuff to investigate this summer!!  Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA

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Re: [lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-26 Thread robinlace
I agree with Sue B., it's got to be a form of Teneriffe (Nanduti, Sol, etc., is 
there a single name to encompass the whole lot?).  Lots of local names for the 
same basic technique.  Lay threads radially across a circular "frame" (could be 
nothing more than a ring of pins, or could be an object designed and devoted to 
this function), weave and interlace threads, usually in a circular pattern, 
though and around the radials, then do an edging to hold it all together.  I 
don't remember ever seeing so many fine threads bundled together, though.  The 
thick, needle-woven rays on the outside of this piece are like the needlewoven 
boxes in hedebo and hardanger, but are also often found in the Teneriffe 
family.  Not usually so big and fat, though.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

Parvum leve mentes capiunt
(Little things amuse little minds)

 hottl...@neo.rr.com wrote: 

=
A friend sent me a photo so I posted it to Arachne Flickr. Perhaps someone 
knows more about this?  Cilaos is near Madagascar so maybe Sue Babbs is 
familiar with the technique?  Just when we thought we couldn't find any more 
lacy stuff to investigate this summer!!  Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA 

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[lace] Cilaos needle lace

2018-08-26 Thread hottleco
A friend sent me a photo so I posted it to Arachne Flickr. Perhaps someone 
knows more about this?  Cilaos is near Madagascar so maybe Sue Babbs is 
familiar with the technique?  Just when we thought we couldn't find any more 
lacy stuff to investigate this summer!!  Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA 

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