re: [lace] overlap joins
Alice wrote: > A common mistake of the beginner is to be so happy to have reached the *end*, that they don't want to continue on for another couple repeats. LOL - this is what put me off trying the methods in 'Het Lassen' - which I invested in because I didn't like the joins I was making with tying knots or doing sewings (butting beginning to end). I couldn't imagine making more repeats than necessary -- time passes, that was then, this is now, and I quite enjoy the chance to make more repeats than a complete perimeter, and don't even mind that some of the extra will be cut away. I think of the 'extras' as a means to the end (quite literally). > True, the actual overlap used is just a couple rows, but the end result will be not as neat if there is little choice of sewing pathway. You are giving yourself the advantage, therefore, by making 'extra.' Of course I have yet to test the method myself (a Flanders hanky edging lies in wait, just for the purpose) but I believe it! -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] overlap joins
If you plan carefully before you start, then the overlap can be a bit smaller than the (I think) suggested 4 repeats. If you decide where you want to do the join, one repeat before at the start and one extra at the end gives plenty to be able to handle it. The other advantages of this join that no-one has mentioned are a) that if you make mistakes at the start of the lace as you are learning the pattern, you work enough that this bit can be cut off. b) If you want more than one piece of lace (as in a set of mats) then you can just keep working for as many times round plus the joining bits as you need to. And finally, c) even if you are working different patterns, you don't need to rewind your bobbins and throw all the thread away because you can use bundles of single bobbins plaited to where you want to start. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] overlap joins
Do these joins work well on heavy (thick thread) laces? I'm working a Cluny pattern in Moravia 40 linen, and darning the ends in unobtrusively is going to be a pain (there's no cloth stitch, apart from the footside it's entirely plaits and leaves). As I want it to look good (it's a special present for friends), and wasn't happy with the way the first repeat or two turned out, making extra and overlapping sounds like a good idea, particularly as I hate darning in the ends. Beth - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] overlap joins
Do these joins work well on heavy (thick thread) laces?...As I want it to look good (it's a special present for friends), and wasn't happy with the way the first repeat or two turned out, making extra and overlapping sounds like a good idea, No, not really. It is traditionally used to do joins across the grounds such as Flanders where 4 pairs are used at a pin hole so the "stitch" at each pin has a lot of *body* to it and several sewing stiches work around the perimeter of the hole. It probably wouldn't be strong enough, for example, on a point-ground ground as there is only the one cross movement and an uncovered pin. It would just pull apart. Problems with overlapping leaves and sewing round, apart from the bulk, will be is that they will both need to be identical in shape to be inconspicuous, and making sure the weaver is secure so the whole leaf doesn't unravel. With plaits, it will probably be hard to keep them on-top-of each other rather than next-to (which would obviously show as it would then be twice as wide) and also anchoring all 8 ends so the plaits don't fray and fluff. For your plaits and leaves type lace, take a look at Ulrike Lohr (+?)'s "The beginning of the end" where she shows how to finish leaves and plaits into the back of themself with a magic thread and then a hitched bundle. Depending on how awful you think the start is, (and how many pairs and how much patience you have) it should be possible to cut the starting loops and un-lace to where you are happy with it, work the end of the lace until it matches and knot the matching ends together, *then* lose the ends into the back of the leaves and plaits (but in now in both directions as you have two sets of ends) as above Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: [lace] overlap joins
Bev wrote - > You are giving yourself the advantage, therefore, by making 'extra.' Of course I have yet to test the method myself (a Flanders hanky edging lies in wait, just for the purpose) but I believe it! -- < SO true!! And if you're still hesitant, think of it THIS way... You have the option of which end you discard. This way, you're not working extra repeats at all... you're giving yourself the opportunity to discard the first two or three repeats that weren't quite as pretty as the rest of the work!! The attitude makes all the difference!! Clay Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [Original Message] > From: Bev Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 4/14/2005 1:23:05 AM > Subject: re: [lace] overlap joins > > Alice wrote: > > > A common mistake of the beginner is to be so happy to have reached the > *end*, that they don't want to continue on for another couple repeats. > > LOL - this is what put me off trying the methods in 'Het Lassen' - which I > invested in because I didn't like the joins I was making with tying knots > or doing sewings (butting beginning to end). I couldn't imagine making > more repeats than necessary -- time passes, that was then, this is now, > and I quite enjoy the chance to make more repeats than a complete > perimeter, and don't even mind that some of the extra will be cut away. I > think of the 'extras' as a means to the end (quite literally). > > > True, the actual overlap used is just a couple rows, but the end result > will be not as neat if there is little choice of sewing pathway. > > You are giving yourself the advantage, therefore, by making 'extra.' Of > course I have yet to test the method myself (a Flanders hanky edging lies > in wait, just for the purpose) but I believe it! -- > bye for now > Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) > Cdn. floral bobbins > www.woodhavenbobbins.com > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] overlap joins
I thought I was the only one who did that... (VBG) I do not start counting repeats until I had at least two under my belt. Actually, I do not do it too often, but some patterns seem to require overlapping. BArbE - Original Message - From: Clay Blackwell To: Bev Walker ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 5:00 PM Subject: re: [lace] overlap joins Bev wrote - > You are giving yourself the advantage, therefore, by making 'extra.' Of course I have yet to test the method myself (a Flanders hanky edging lies in wait, just for the purpose) but I believe it! -- < SO true!! And if you're still hesitant, think of it THIS way... You have the option of which end you discard. This way, you're not working extra repeats at all... you're giving yourself the opportunity to discard the first two or three repeats that weren't quite as pretty as the rest of the work!! The attitude makes all the difference!! Clay Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [Original Message] > From: Bev Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 4/14/2005 1:23:05 AM > Subject: re: [lace] overlap joins > > Alice wrote: > > > A common mistake of the beginner is to be so happy to have reached the > *end*, that they don't want to continue on for another couple repeats. > > LOL - this is what put me off trying the methods in 'Het Lassen' - which I > invested in because I didn't like the joins I was making with tying knots > or doing sewings (butting beginning to end). I couldn't imagine making > more repeats than necessary -- time passes, that was then, this is now, > and I quite enjoy the chance to make more repeats than a complete > perimeter, and don't even mind that some of the extra will be cut away. I > think of the 'extras' as a means to the end (quite literally). > > > True, the actual overlap used is just a couple rows, but the end result > will be not as neat if there is little choice of sewing pathway. > > You are giving yourself the advantage, therefore, by making 'extra.' Of > course I have yet to test the method myself (a Flanders hanky edging lies > in wait, just for the purpose) but I believe it! -- > bye for now > Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) > Cdn. floral bobbins > www.woodhavenbobbins.com > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] overlap joins - Cluny
At 12:23 AM 4/14/2005, you wrote: Do these joins work well on heavy (thick thread) laces? I'm working a Cluny pattern in Moravia 40 linen, and darning the ends in unobtrusively is going to be a pain.. Sorry. The book made a statement that overlapping was for continuous laces, not laces with continuous closed parts or Cluny laces where sewing in and tying off is preferable. (Those were her descriptive words.) The lassen sewing thread cannot jump over open spaces. I haven't done Cluny but have done Russian, Idrijan and Hungarian. Across a solid trail, one form of roll hitches has worked well for me (method 13 in "Practical Skills in Bobbin Lace" by Bridget Cook.) You might study the various methods in Practical Skills. There are several given. Also, look in other books, such as Russian lace books, for trail lace methods. Speak up now -- all you who have done Cluny. What method worked best for you? Alice in Oregon - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
