Re: Shipping a LOM and/or Heavy accessories

2012-05-17 Thread curt george
It sounds like you got your self a good deal. did you get any teaching 
materials, like videos or paperwork with your new mill?  There is a small 
learning curve when it comes to useing the O.R Mill. but its not that hard 
to figure out. Tim K has saved (what Art Ransom started. ) a learing page 
with some of the best projects and topic that we have covered with in this 
group over the last, So many years. I would suggest that you take a look at 
it. http://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/   It is a Good place to start!


talk to you more later.
Have a good day.
C.A.G.
- Original Message - 
From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com

To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: Shipping a LOM and/or Heavy accessories


The SHIPPING was about $200 - the machine I got for a deal of $850. No
legs, but most of the important accessories. The shipping today would
probably be more now that diesel fuel cost $4.00 per gal.
I am located just outside of Anniston, AL , surrounded by Talledega
National Forest.

On May 16, 7:33 pm, Joe Gassen wordsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

Dexter
Where in AL do you live?
I'm in Athens just west of Huntsville
Joe

Sent from my iPhone

On May 16, 2012, at 5:18 PM, Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com wrote:

 I purchased a 1000ex (6 ft unit) several years ago from someone in
 Seattle, WA area and had it shipped to cental Alabama for about $200.
 The previous owner (great guy) crated up the unit and took it to the
 dock to avoid the pickup fee. The crate weighed about 250 lbs and was
 no problem to slide out of the freight truck into my truck at my
 house. I think I used Old Dominion. I just did internet shopping to
 find a reasonable priced shipper. some of their web sites will give
 you a quote for shipping if you have the dimensions of the crate and
 the estimated weight. I think the trick is finding a seller that is
 willing to crate up the mill for you.
 Dexter

 On Apr 24, 7:16 pm, Va Oak mwfos...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Does anyone have experience with a shipping service/freight company
 and their shipping a LOM long distance (half way across the USA)?

 If one were to buy a LOM from someone half way across the USA, who
 would you recommend they use to ship it? (Or conversely, if you were
 to be the seller, what shipping/freight companies have LOM User Group
 members used or would recommend based on shipping other big/heavy
 items?)

 What company did you use? Did you compare several before selecting
 them? I think with a number of folks in the group selling  buying
 LOMs and their accessories, we should share info as regards the best
 way to ship them; as well as companies/methods to perhaps avoid. Any
 input would be useful to all - I'm sure.
 Thank you in advance to all replying members.

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Re: Making Z-axis upgrade

2012-05-17 Thread Andy
Dexter,

I was surfing the web the other day for router accessories and came
across a fixture called router angle ease (do a google image search
of it). It looks pretty slick and there are a few people out that that
have made their own. I think this may be a good starting point for a
home made Z-axis. It also has the added benefit of tilting which adds
a new dimension if used as a Z-axis. Good luck!

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Re: could someone explain the formula

2012-05-17 Thread curt george
OK I'm back.
I see the problem here you are right about the 45 deg. angle for an 8 sided 
column, but 

The L should be 3 and the H 2 so your angle is correct but the length of 
slat is not what is should be..

Lets try changing some of the numbers around and see if???
I like this one better. 12 sided makes your angle 11 at 30 and 2 at 60 

 


Lets try it again and see if it works out this time.
I wish you luck and Please keep us informed.
C.A.G.

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Re: could someone explain the formula

2012-05-17 Thread curt george
Hello everyone. the pictures did you come thought. ( I am sorry about that.) 
Try going to 
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/birdsmouth/index.cfm#online-calc 
and putting in the numbers in there calculators.  1,2,3, should give you all 
the parts you should need.
L is the length of the slat and H is the thickness of the wood. 

Good luck!
I have to go.

C.A.G.
  - Original Message - 
  From: curt george 
  To: Legacy Google group 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 5:29 PM
  Subject: Re: could someone explain the formula


  OK I'm back.
  I see the problem here you are right about the 45 deg. angle for an 8 sided 
column, but 

  The L should be 3 and the H 2 so your angle is correct but the length 
of slat is not what is should be..

  Lets try changing some of the numbers around and see if???
  I like this one better. 12 sided makes your angle 11 at 30 and 2 at 60 

   


  Lets try it again and see if it works out this time.
  I wish you luck and Please keep us informed.
  C.A.G.


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Home Made Rotary Table

2012-05-17 Thread Tim Krause
Please do post your version of a simple rotary table.  We have a lot of
frugal lurkers on the list that would be interested.  They are just too shy
to ask.

-Tim


- Original Message - 
From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 3:05 AM
Subject: Re: Shipping a LOM and/or Heavy accessories


 I have made a simple indexing
rotary table to make bases for candle sticks. I could show how to do
that here. You can use the index wheels that you currently have to
make wooden ones that you then mount on plywood that is attached to
the rails. It costs almost nothing and isn't that hard to make. You
are limited in size since the wheel you can make will have to fit
between the rails.
Dexter


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Re: Home Made Rotary Table

2012-05-17 Thread Dexter Bland
I post a couple pictures and explanation in a new post. This is
getting off topic.

On May 17, 7:38 pm, Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net wrote:
 Please do post your version of a simple rotary table.  We have a lot of
 frugal lurkers on the list that would be interested.  They are just too shy
 to ask.

 -Tim

 - Original Message -
 From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com
 To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 3:05 AM
 Subject: Re: Shipping a LOM and/or Heavy accessories

  I have made a simple indexing
 rotary table to make bases for candle sticks. I could show how to do
 that here. You can use the index wheels that you currently have to
 make wooden ones that you then mount on plywood that is attached to
 the rails. It costs almost nothing and isn't that hard to make. You
 are limited in size since the wheel you can make will have to fit
 between the rails.
 Dexter

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Re: could someone explain the formula

2012-05-17 Thread Tim Krause
Hoorah!  Have fun and show us some pictures when you're done.

-Tim

  - Original Message - 
  From: James Edgell 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:53 PM
  Subject: Re: could someone explain the formula


  now i understand, hahahahaha


   
  On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 8:55 PM, Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net wrote:

One last plan.  I've attached a pdf that shows the exact dimensions to cut 
your staves to.  It will create an 8 column.

-Tim

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Krause 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:35 PM
  Subject: Re: could someone explain the formula


  Ok, It's picture time. :-)


  The version on the left is a correct birdsmouth joint as Mike was 
describing.  Your version cut the 90 degree angle in the wrong face as shown on 
the right. 

  -Tim

- Original Message - 
From: James Edgell 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: could someone explain the formula


you lost me, if you go look at the magnate site they show a bit that 
cuts a 45 degree angle and with 8 pieces forms a 8 piece column, so using their 
formula , with 2 inch thick wood, with a 2 inch cut depth on each side of the 
cut, i need 3 and three eights width across the board to form an 8 inch 
diameter column, i did that and that is what i ended up with, only giving a 
little better than 6 inches in diameter for the diameter for the column once it 
is turned to round . still not sure what i did wrong?


On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 7:50 PM, Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net 
wrote:

  Is it safe to say that you understand now where you went wrong?  Your 
version is a pretty cool variation!

  -Tim



- Original Message - 
From: James Edgell 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: could someone explain the formula


yea i thought it looked pretty cool also, something for future 
fantasy projects, hahaha


 

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bad_birdsmouth_joint.jpg

Homemade Indexing table

2012-05-17 Thread Dexter Bland
I made a cheap index rotary table that I needed to make some
candlestick bases. For each one I sandwiched a 3/4 plywood with two
pieces of 1/4 hardboard just smaller than would fit between the rails
of my machine. I clipped the corners to make it where I could use the
machine to make it round. I mounted a hub in the the middle and
drilled a hole in the opposite side for the tail stock to set in. You
have to make sure the hub and opposite hole for the tail stock are
lined up perfectly.  I mounted it in the mill and turned it round
using the flat bottomed bit. You can then make your disk indexed by
using the index plates come with your mill. Move the index pin on the
mill to the first position and cut a grove in the edge of the disk
with a v-groove bit. Use whatever intervals you need. After you have
cut all the index grooves, unmount the piece and drill a larger hole
in the middle whatever bolt size you have for the pivot point. I also
countersunk the head of the bolt so it would not be in the way. Then
mount it on a piece of plywood that will fit between the rails of your
machine. The next step is to make a index pin to hold the wheel in the
desired position. Make a u-shaped block of wood to hold another block
that is pointed on the end that holds the wheel and the other is a
tight fit in the u-shaped block. I cut the block with a taper so that
it fit snug and would not allow the wheel to turn.
If I can figure out how to insert photos, I will load two that will
make things real clear.

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