RE: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread Bill Bulkeley 
The manual I did it off was black and white it came with my 900 when I
replaced it from the fire and I guess I was a little paranoid then I scanned
the whole book all 160 pages for an electronic back up I forgot I had it
till I was looking through my legacy folder on my computer 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of curt george
Sent: Wednesday, 15 January 2014 8:04 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: legacy manual

 

That one looks like one of the Builder magazine covers, it sure dose not
look like my 1000ex manual ( year 2000) BY the way is it in color? and on
glosy paper too.?  ;-)

C.A.G.

- Original Message - 

From: Bill Bulkeley mailto:bulke...@mmnet.com.au  

To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 

Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 12:12 AM

Subject: legacy manual

 

Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd format I
have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer.

But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . but
it might email I'm not sure.

Bill 

 

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Re: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread jwb764 
I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine for about a 
year now.

Jeff Becker


 Bill Bulkeley bulke...@mmnet.com.au wrote: 
 Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd format I
 have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer.
 
 But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . but
 it might email I'm not sure.
 
 Bill 
 
  
 
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Re: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread aussiman 
 Ps if any revo owners are interested I have the revo manual as well in pfd

 Bill


On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:44:09 PM UTC+11, legacy woodworking wrote:

 I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine for 
 about a year now. 

 Jeff Becker 


  Bill Bulkeley bulk...@mmnet.com.au javascript: wrote: 
  Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd 
 format I 
  have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer. 
  
  But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . 
 but 
  it might email I'm not sure. 
  
  Bill 
  

  
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Re: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread SteveEJ 
I would love a copy of both. I have the Revo and a 900CNC that I wish was a 
manual machine.

Could you email me a copy? Let me know if there are any fees or anything.

s.jacobs0828 at gmail  or  steveej0828 at yahoo

Thanks!

Steve

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:47:45 AM UTC-6, aussiman wrote:

 Ps if any revo owners are interested I have the revo manual as well in pfd

  Bill


 On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:44:09 PM UTC+11, legacy woodworking wrote:

 I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine for 
 about a year now. 

 Jeff Becker 


  Bill Bulkeley bulk...@mmnet.com.au wrote: 
  Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd 
 format I 
  have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer. 
  
  But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . 
 but 
  it might email I'm not sure. 
  
  Bill 
  

  
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Auction of 1200 in Louisiana ending in two weeks Current bid $80

2014-01-15 Thread Begat 
Hello All,

Here's an opportunity for someone.  A Legacy 1200 is up for auction in 
Louisiana.  It comes with a router.  You can bid over the internet for a 
13% fee and you have to figure out how to get the machine.  

https://www.proxibid.com/asp/LotDetail.asp?ahid=1881aid=74265lid=18498634title=Legacy-96-Router-with-Porter-Cable-Router#

Begat

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Re: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread jwb764 
Steve, if you converted the 900 to cnc and kept theitems removed you could 
convert it back.


 SteveEJ s.jacobs0...@gmail.com wrote: 
 I would love a copy of both. I have the Revo and a 900CNC that I wish was a 
 manual machine.
 
 Could you email me a copy? Let me know if there are any fees or anything.
 
 s.jacobs0828 at gmail  or  steveej0828 at yahoo
 
 Thanks!
 
 Steve
 
 On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:47:45 AM UTC-6, aussiman wrote:
 
  Ps if any revo owners are interested I have the revo manual as well in pfd
 
   Bill
 
 
  On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:44:09 PM UTC+11, legacy woodworking wrote:
 
  I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine for 
  about a year now. 
 
  Jeff Becker 
 
 
   Bill Bulkeley bulk...@mmnet.com.au wrote: 
   Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd 
  format I 
   have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer. 
   
   But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . 
  but 
   it might email I'm not sure. 
   
   Bill 
   
 
   
   -- 
 
 
 
 
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Re: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread SteveEJ 
That's the problem. I bought it from Legacy as a 900 Standard CNC that 
someone had traded in. I would have to do a complete swap out or get the 
gears, etc. to make it work. I got really frustrated with Mach3 and all of 
the steps needed to make it line up correctly, etc. I have driven several 
bits thru a bird thinking it would be OK before hitting Cycle Start.. I 
also have a Carvewright and it carves extremely well for a lot of things.

Still have the Revo and it would be nice to have both manuals (900 non-cnc 
and Revo).

Maybe when I retire again I will have time to sort the 900 CNC/Mach3 stuff 
out.

Thanks,

Steve

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 9:26:51 AM UTC-6, legacy woodworking wrote:

 Steve, if you converted the 900 to cnc and kept theitems removed you could 
 convert it back. 


  SteveEJ s.jaco...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: 
  I would love a copy of both. I have the Revo and a 900CNC that I wish 
 was a 
  manual machine. 
  
  Could you email me a copy? Let me know if there are any fees or 
 anything. 
  
  s.jacobs0828 at gmail  or  steveej0828 at yahoo 
  
  Thanks! 
  
  Steve 
  
  On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:47:45 AM UTC-6, aussiman wrote: 
   
   Ps if any revo owners are interested I have the revo manual as well in 
 pfd 
   
Bill 
   
   
   On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:44:09 PM UTC+11, legacy woodworking 
 wrote: 
   
   I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine 
 for 
   about a year now. 
   
   Jeff Becker 
   
   
    Bill Bulkeley bulk...@mmnet.com.au wrote: 
Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd 
   format I 
have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer. 

But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too 
 big . 
   but 
it might email I'm not sure. 

Bill 

  

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Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500

2014-01-15 Thread Begat 
Hello,

I guess we have talked up another 900 CNC.  There's one for sale in 
Illinois.  One of the interesting things is that these native 900 CNC's 
have few if any of the accessories as well as no easy way to convert them 
back to a manual  machine without buying scarce parts.  Because they are so 
few, there are few people for support.

In any event, here's the link:

http://chambana.craigslist.org/tls/4281445760.html

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finishing

2014-01-15 Thread BOB 
this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been 
doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain 
directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he 
made a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood 
look like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be 
better than the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway 
the topic could be long so I was wondering how much interest there was 
before starting Bob 

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RE: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread Bill Bulkeley 
Another option you may not have thought of swap the rails of your 900 and your 
revo so you will have a short cnc mill and a long revo and if you put spacers 
under the revos head and tail stock it will be able to do the same dia work as 
a 900 as well

and you will have a manual machine that will do all the work a 900 can do

 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of SteveEJ
Sent: Thursday, 16 January 2014 3:04 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Cc: SteveEJ
Subject: Re: legacy manual

 

That's the problem. I bought it from Legacy as a 900 Standard CNC that someone 
had traded in. I would have to do a complete swap out or get the gears, etc. to 
make it work. I got really frustrated with Mach3 and all of the steps needed to 
make it line up correctly, etc. I have driven several bits thru a bird thinking 
it would be OK before hitting Cycle Start.. I also have a Carvewright and it 
carves extremely well for a lot of things.

 

Still have the Revo and it would be nice to have both manuals (900 non-cnc and 
Revo).

 

Maybe when I retire again I will have time to sort the 900 CNC/Mach3 stuff out.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 9:26:51 AM UTC-6, legacy woodworking wrote:

Steve, if you converted the 900 to cnc and kept theitems removed you could 
convert it back. 


 SteveEJ s.jaco...@gmail.com javascript:  wrote: 
 I would love a copy of both. I have the Revo and a 900CNC that I wish was a 
 manual machine. 
 
 Could you email me a copy? Let me know if there are any fees or anything. 
 
 s.jacobs0828 at gmail  or  steveej0828 at yahoo 
 
 Thanks! 
 
 Steve 
 
 On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:47:45 AM UTC-6, aussiman wrote: 
  
  Ps if any revo owners are interested I have the revo manual as well in pfd 
  
   Bill 
  
  
  On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:44:09 PM UTC+11, legacy woodworking wrote: 
  
  I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine for 
  about a year now. 
  
  Jeff Becker 
  
  
   Bill Bulkeley bulk...@mmnet.com.au wrote: 
   Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd 
  format I 
   have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer. 
   
   But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . 
  but 
   it might email I'm not sure. 
   
   Bill 
   
 
   
   -- 
  
  
  
 

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/7003 - Release Date: 01/14/14

  _  

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/7003 - Release Date: 01/14/14

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RE: finishing

2014-01-15 Thread Bill Bulkeley 
I would be interested I’m interested in anything to do with woodwork was the 
rough cut episode on youtube Id like to see it

 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of BOB
Sent: Thursday, 16 January 2014 8:26 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: finishing

 

this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been doing 
balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain directions 
and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he made a secretary 
a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood look like one. I 
think that the artist paints with japan drier would be better than the alcohol 
dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway the topic could be long so I 
was wondering how much interest there was before starting Bob 

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RE: legacy manual

2014-01-15 Thread Bill Bulkeley 
Ps swap the leadscrew too i forgot to mention that

Bill 

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bulkeley
Sent: Thursday, 16 January 2014 9:04 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: legacy manual

 

Another option you may not have thought of swap the rails of your 900 and your 
revo so you will have a short cnc mill and a long revo and if you put spacers 
under the revos head and tail stock it will be able to do the same dia work as 
a 900 as well

and you will have a manual machine that will do all the work a 900 can do

 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of SteveEJ
Sent: Thursday, 16 January 2014 3:04 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Cc: SteveEJ
Subject: Re: legacy manual

 

That's the problem. I bought it from Legacy as a 900 Standard CNC that someone 
had traded in. I would have to do a complete swap out or get the gears, etc. to 
make it work. I got really frustrated with Mach3 and all of the steps needed to 
make it line up correctly, etc. I have driven several bits thru a bird thinking 
it would be OK before hitting Cycle Start.. I also have a Carvewright and it 
carves extremely well for a lot of things.

 

Still have the Revo and it would be nice to have both manuals (900 non-cnc and 
Revo).

 

Maybe when I retire again I will have time to sort the 900 CNC/Mach3 stuff out.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 9:26:51 AM UTC-6, legacy woodworking wrote:

Steve, if you converted the 900 to cnc and kept theitems removed you could 
convert it back. 


 SteveEJ s.jaco...@gmail.com javascript:  wrote: 
 I would love a copy of both. I have the Revo and a 900CNC that I wish was a 
 manual machine. 
 
 Could you email me a copy? Let me know if there are any fees or anything. 
 
 s.jacobs0828 at gmail  or  steveej0828 at yahoo 
 
 Thanks! 
 
 Steve 
 
 On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:47:45 AM UTC-6, aussiman wrote: 
  
  Ps if any revo owners are interested I have the revo manual as well in pfd 
  
   Bill 
  
  
  On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:44:09 PM UTC+11, legacy woodworking wrote: 
  
  I would like a copy of it, I have been thinking about scanning mine for 
  about a year now. 
  
  Jeff Becker 
  
  
   Bill Bulkeley bulk...@mmnet.com.au wrote: 
   Did I read here that someone was looking for a legacy manual in pfd 
  format I 
   have this one (see the pic) I found in my computer. 
   
   But it is 16 megs in size so I can't post it I think it's way too big . 
  but 
   it might email I'm not sure. 
   
   Bill 
   
 
   
   -- 
  
  
  
 

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/7003 - Release Date: 01/14/14

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/7003 - Release Date: 01/14/14

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3681/7005 - Release Date: 01/15/14

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: finishing

2014-01-15 Thread curt george 
Hello Bob
I am a Shellac junkie when it come to finishing , a 1 cut base coat of shellac 
is a Great way to blend the different woods. Alcohol dyes are Awesome and easy 
to use,to bring out the grain and make it realy POP out ! , but if you want to 
blend different woods into one uniformed looking piece, Shellac and pigment 
stains are the safest way to do that.  For antiquing or making a project look 
old, I've even used spray paint and pigment stains together to make a fake 
piñata and or hid mistakes like woodfiller that is slightly off color form the 
original wood.
I've used a lot of different tricks over the years, some with good results, and 
others that did not work so well. but on the good side, I now know what dose 
not work as well as what has worked well for me over the years.
As  a matter of Fact I just picked up a ageing wood raspy that sounds like it 
should workout well, (but I've not tried it yet.) 

6 black tea bags.in 3 cups of water,Boil down to 1/2 cup then add 1/2 cup of 
Apple cider vinegar. 1 cups of White Vinegar, 1 fine steel-wool pad, WAIT 48 
hours before using.
Bob if you have any neat tricks on finishing, Please let me know what they are. 

C.A.G.
  - Original Message - 
  From: BOB 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 4:26 PM
  Subject: finishing


  this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been 
doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain 
directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he made 
a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood look 
like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be better than 
the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway the topic could 
be long so I was wondering how much interest there was before starting Bob 

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Re: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500

2014-01-15 Thread mwfoscue 
I agree. - However, I'd LOVE to acquire EVERYTHING he/she has onthat sheet of plywood. The rest - ya'll can have. LoLMac-Original Message-
From: Begat 
Sent: Jan 15, 2014 2:45 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500

Hello,I guess we have talked up another 900 CNC. There's one for sale in Illinois. One of the interesting things is that these native 900 CNC's have few if any of the accessories as well as no easy way to convert them back to a manual machine without buying scarce parts. Because they are so few, there are few people for support.In any event, here's the link:http://chambana.craigslist.org/tls/4281445760.html



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Re: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500

2014-01-15 Thread curt george 
Well that is pretty down right impressive. and I like the Price as well.
Thank for letting us know.
Have a good night.
C.A.G.
  - Original Message - 
  From: mwfos...@earthlink.net 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:41 PM
  Subject: Re: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500


  I agree. - However, I'd LOVE to acquire EVERYTHING he/she has on that sheet 
of plywood.  
  The rest - ya'll can have.  LoL
  Mac
--

--

-Original Message- 
From: Begat 
Sent: Jan 15, 2014 2:45 PM 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500 


Hello,

I guess we have talked up another 900 CNC.  There's one for sale in 
Illinois.  One of the interesting things is that these native 900 CNC's have 
few if any of the accessories as well as no easy way to convert them back to a 
manual  machine without buying scarce parts.  Because they are so few, there 
are few people for support.

In any event, here's the link:

http://chambana.craigslist.org/tls/4281445760.html


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Re: finishing

2014-01-15 Thread BOB 
Thanks for the interest I also like most things about woodworking I tend to 
lean towards old timey methods hand planes, dividers, Fibonacci gauges, 
hambridge progression , whole number ratio's, shooting boards I could go on 
for a long time. There is a lot of almost lost knowledge that could still 
serve us today it blows me away when I look at museum pieces that were made 
in the 1800's from people who could not read or write it's amazing and they 
were not hobbyist, time was money then as it is now. The rough cut episode 
is on his  web site under project video's the third one is bombe secretary 
82 shows the last one talks about the finish there are many more but that 
one got me started I like how he uses his hand tools and power tools 
together for the best results. As far as my finish it is mostly what I 
learned from curt first I melt bee's wax and mix it with mineral oil let it 
dry then shellac to seal it then an oil blend of 1/3 tung oil linseed oil 
and varnish I thought the toner should be added after the shellac where 
needed then shellacked again before the oil, That is why I was going to shy 
away from alcohol dye and use the artist paint with the japan drier instead 
thanks again for the interest Bob

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:14:54 PM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:

  
 Hello Bob
 I am a Shellac junkie when it come to finishing , a 1 cut base coat of 
 shellac is a Great way to blend the different woods. Alcohol dyes are 
 Awesome and easy to use,to bring out the grain and make it realy POP out 
 ! , but if you want to blend different woods into one uniformed looking 
 piece, Shellac and pigment stains are the safest way to do that.  For 
 antiquing or making a project look old, I've even used spray paint and 
 pigment stains together to make a fake piñata and or hid mistakes like 
 woodfiller that is slightly off color form the original wood.
 I've used a lot of different tricks over the years, some with good 
 results, and others that did not work so well. but on the good side, I now 
 know what dose not work as well as what has worked well for me over the 
 years.
 As  a matter of Fact I just picked up a ageing wood raspy that sounds like 
 it should workout well, (but I've not tried it yet.) 
  
 6 black tea bags.in 3 cups of water,Boil down to 1/2 cup then add 1/2 cup 
 of Apple cider vinegar. 1 cups of White Vinegar, 1 fine steel-wool pad, 
 WAIT 48 hours before using.
 Bob if you have any neat tricks on finishing, Please let me know what they 
 are. 
  
 C.A.G.

 - Original Message - 
 *From:* BOB javascript: 
 *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: 
 *Sent:* Wednesday, January 15, 2014 4:26 PM
 *Subject:* finishing

 this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been 
 doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain 
 directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he 
 made a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood 
 look like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be 
 better than the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway 
 the topic could be long so I was wondering how much interest there was 
 before starting Bob 

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Re: finishing

2014-01-15 Thread mwfoscue 
Hello Bob,I have not ever used it - but at the Baltimore Woodworking Show, there was a table where they were demo'ing/selling Charles Neal's Blotch Control. You may want to check it out - may work for you. If anyone in The Group has used it, I (and I am sure Bob too) would like to know what you thought of the results.Good luck, Bob.Mac-Original Message-
From: BOB 
Sent: Jan 15, 2014 4:26 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: finishing

this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he made a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood look like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be better than the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway the topic could be long so I was wondering how much interest there was before starting Bob



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Re: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500

2014-01-15 Thread SteveEJ 
Looks like mine except that mine has the mobility kit. He does not show a 
PC with a Parallel port and Mach3. That's more money to add.

You are right about the parts needed to convert it back to a manual machine.

Steve

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 7:48:25 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

  
 Well that is pretty down right impressive. and I like the Price as well.
 Thank for letting us know.
 Have a good night.
 C.A.G.

 - Original Message - 
 *From:* mwfo...@earthlink.net javascript: 
 *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: 
 *Sent:* Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:41 PM
 *Subject:* Re: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500

 I agree. - However, I'd LOVE to acquire EVERYTHING he/she has on that 
 sheet of plywood.   
 The rest - ya'll can have.  LoL 
 Mac 
 --
 --

 -Original Message- 
 From: Begat 
 Sent: Jan 15, 2014 2:45 PM 
 To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: 
 Subject: Legacy 900 CNC in Champaign-Urbana, Illinois asking $3500 

 Hello,

 I guess we have talked up another 900 CNC.  There's one for sale in 
 Illinois.  One of the interesting things is that these native 900 CNC's 
 have few if any of the accessories as well as no easy way to convert them 
 back to a manual  machine without buying scarce parts.  Because they are so 
 few, there are few people for support.

 In any event, here's the link:

 http://chambana.craigslist.org/tls/4281445760.html

 -- 

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 legacy-orna...@googlegroups.comjavascript:
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Re: finishing

2014-01-15 Thread mwfoscue 
Hello Curt,Regarding the "wood aging recipe" - Do you put the fine steel wool pad in to the tea-vinegar mix and let it all sit for the 48 hours? (The steel wool must chemically react with the vinegarOr is the fine steel wool pad used to apply the "aging cocktail" to the wood you want to "age"?Is the aging solution brushed on to the wood or is the wood placed into a trough and soaked in the solution?I'll be interested in seeing a couple "Before - After" photos of an "aged" board that you have created with this concoction.Thanks forsharing.Mac-Original Message-
From: curt george 
Sent: Jan 15, 2014 6:14 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: finishing








Hello Bob
I am a Shellac junkie when it come to finishing , a 
1 cut base coat of shellac is a Great way to blend the different woods. Alcohol 
dyes are Awesome and easy to use,tobring out the grain and make it realy 
POP out !, but if you want to blenddifferent woods into one 
uniformed looking piece, Shellac and pigment stains are the safest way to do 
that. For antiquing or making a project look old, I've even used spray 
paint and pigment stains together to make a fake piñata and or hid mistakes like 
woodfiller that is slightly off color form the original wood.
I've used a lot of different tricks over the years, 
some with good results, and others that did not work so well. but on the good 
side, I now know what dose not work as well as what has worked well for me over 
the years.
As a matter of Fact I just picked up a ageing 
wood raspy that sounds like it should workout well, (but I've not tried it yet.) 


6 black tea bags.in 
3 cups of water,Boil down to 1/2 cup then add 1/2 cup of Apple cider 
vinegar.1 cups of White Vinegar, 1 fine steel-wool pad, WAIT 48 hours 
before using.
Bob if you have any neat trickson 
finishing,Please let me know what they are. 

C.A.G.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  BOB 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 4:26 
  PM
  Subject: finishing
  
  this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I 
  have been doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different 
  grain directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where 
  he made a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood 
  look like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be better 
  than the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway the topic 
  could be long so I was wondering how much interest there was before starting 
  Bob
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