RE: Accurate setup

[Bill Bulkeley]

A difference in the middle most likely is movement or sag of the work try a 
larger dia like 4 or 5 inches and see if that is closer .

Getting 0.00 all the way would be great but not really possible its a wood mill 
not a metal lathe but if you play around with a few thousands of a inch height  
adjustment you would get it closer but 19 thou over 16 inches would do me

Bill

 

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Riggen
Sent: Sunday, 26 February 2017 10:49 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Cc: curtgeo...@wowway.com
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

To All who have contributed,

 

Thank you for all of your comments on my dilemma.  I was finally able to get 
back to my mill today to try all of your suggestions.

 

I leveled my rails by using a single block of wood at each of the corners and a 
straight edge lying across the two top rails. With the block in place, I 
adjusted each the 4 corners for zero clearance between the block and the 
straight edge.  I then checked the router for perpendicularity by using a flat 
board and a surface cleaning bit just touching the board. There was no visible 
gap with the bit rotated in all directions.

 

Then came the test. I turned a cylinder.  The results were quite good I think.  
Attached is a chart of the results.  The cylinder is 16 3/4" long.  The 
diameter is approximately 2.7 depending where you measure.  The chart shows 
difference of .019" between one end and the other. That is real close to 1/64". 
 I think I can live with that even though I would like it to be .000".  What I 
find interesting is that the variation is not linear. At the headstock end, it 
is 2.723, at 10" it is 2.700, and the tailstock end is 2.704.  I don't know 
what that means or if it is important.  I'm hoping one of you can help me out 
there.

 

 

 

This has been quite an experience and I know a whole lot more about this 
machine now than I did when I bought it!

 

I've got one more question though. How freely should the carriage move along 
the Y axis and the X axis?  I've got it moving quite easily along the Y axis 
but not so much on the X axis. Is that the nature of the beast or do I need to 
do something more to tune it up better?

 

Thanks again for all of your help and patience,

 

Jim Riggen

 

 

 

 


On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 7:18:22 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

Good morning Don

A funny note here, I too had a problem with binding when moving the carriage , 
Mike P. came over and looked at my machine (this was YEARS ago.) I told him 
that I took everything apart, with the only exception the carriage assembly its 
self, (it said in my manual to not touch that, due to it being factory set.) 
Well after looking at my set up, Mike noted that there was a binding with my 
slides, and they had to be coming form the carriage. so He loosened the screws 
on my carriage and re-tightened them, I could not believe how much of a 
difference that made, 

‘…when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, 
however improbable, must be the truth. a quote form 

’Sherlock Holmes'

I am glad that you found you improbable truth. Now lets start making some saw 
dust. ;-)

C.A.G.

 


  _  


From: "Don W." <dwi...@hotmail.com  >
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  >
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:59:10 AM
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

Yes, I'm much happier with the finish now.  Tim, when I took the router 
carriage off, there was about 2 inches of loose felt on all ends.  At the time 
I thought maybe sawdust had gotten between the felt and the bracket, so I cut 
off the loose felt.  I have always had problems with binding when pushing this 
hand, so hopefully that trimming also fixed that problem.  I think I've finally 
disassemble and re-assembled every part on this machine now. :-)  I appreciate 
all the help.   

 

 

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You received this mess

Re: Accurate setup

[Jim Riggen]

To All who have contributed,

Thank you for all of your comments on my dilemma.  I was finally able to 
get back to my mill today to try all of your suggestions.

I leveled my rails by using a single block of wood at each of the corners 
and a straight edge lying across the two top rails. With the block in 
place, I adjusted each the 4 corners for zero clearance between the block 
and the straight edge.  I then checked the router for perpendicularity by 
using a flat board and a surface cleaning bit just touching the board. 
There was no visible gap with the bit rotated in all directions.

Then came the test. I turned a cylinder.  The results were quite good I 
think.  Attached is a chart of the results.  The cylinder is 16 3/4" long.  
The diameter is approximately 2.7 depending where you measure.  The chart 
shows difference of .019" between one end and the other. That is real close 
to 1/64".  I think I can live with that even though I would like it to be 
.000".  What I find interesting is that the variation is not linear. At the 
headstock end, it is 2.723, at 10" it is 2.700, and the tailstock end is 
2.704.  I don't know what that means or if it is important.  I'm hoping one 
of you can help me out there.



This has been quite an experience and I know a whole lot more about this 
machine now than I did when I bought it!

I've got one more question though. How freely should the carriage move 
along the Y axis and the X axis?  I've got it moving quite easily along the 
Y axis but not so much on the X axis. Is that the nature of the beast or do 
I need to do something more to tune it up better?

Thanks again for all of your help and patience,

Jim Riggen





On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 7:18:22 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

> Good morning Don
> A funny note here, I too had a problem with binding when moving the 
> carriage , Mike P. came over and looked at my machine (this was YEARS ago.) 
> I told him that I took everything apart, with the only exception the 
> carriage assembly its self, (it said in my manual to not touch that, due to 
> it being factory set.) Well after looking at my set up, Mike noted that 
> there was a binding with my slides, and they had to be coming form the 
> carriage. so He loosened the screws on my carriage and re-tightened them, I 
> could not believe how much of a difference that made, 
>
> ‘…when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, 
> however improbable, must be the truth. a quote form 
>
> ’Sherlock Holmes'
>
> I am glad that you found you improbable truth. Now lets start making some 
> saw dust. ;-)
>
> C.A.G.
>  
>
> --
> *From: *"Don W." <dwi...@hotmail.com >
> *To: *"Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
> >
> *Sent: *Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:59:10 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Accurate setup
>
> Yes, I'm much happier with the finish now.  Tim, when I took the router 
> carriage off, there was about 2 inches of loose felt on all ends.  At the 
> time I thought maybe sawdust had gotten between the felt and the bracket, 
> so I cut off the loose felt.  I have always had problems with binding when 
> pushing this hand, so hopefully that trimming also fixed that problem.  I 
> think I've finally disassemble and re-assembled every part on this machine 
> now. :-)  I appreciate all the help.   
>>
>>
>>
> -- 
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> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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> .
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> https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>

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Turning.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document

Re: Accurate setup

[Don W.]

Yes, I'm much happier with the finish now.  Tim, when I took the router 
carriage off, there was about 2 inches of loose felt on all ends.  At the 
time I thought maybe sawdust had gotten between the felt and the bracket, 
so I cut off the loose felt.  I have always had problems with binding when 
pushing this hand, so hopefully that trimming also fixed that problem.  I 
think I've finally disassemble and re-assembled every part on this machine 
now. :-)  I appreciate all the help.   
>
>
>

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RE: Accurate setup

[Bill Bulkeley]

I think it’s the light making it look rougher than it is if you look at the 
shaded part it looks much smoother

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Arkady Paka
Sent: Monday, 20 February 2017 8:54 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

Hi Don.

Is the material you mill dry or wet (green)?

If it dry, the finisht should be much cleaner.

Arkady

 

2017-02-20 9:22 GMT+02:00 Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>:

Much better Don looks good now only a little sanding and it would be perfect 
glad you worked out what was wrong

 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Don W.
Sent: Monday, 20 February 2017 12:50 PM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

I'll try again.  The picture showed up in my email, but I don't see it here in 
the group.


Don W.

 

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RE: Accurate setup

[Bill Bulkeley]

Great don send a pic of the finish now it should be almost perfect almost no 
sanding needed 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Don W.
Sent: Monday, 20 February 2017 10:03 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

Curtis and Bill,

 

Thanks for the input.  All of these turned out to be correct.  Found that there 
was a .050 inch difference between the distance from the top to the rail to the 
bottom of the bracket that rides on the rail (the bracket that has the felt 
taped to it).  Well if you guys hadn't told me the finish should be smooth, I 
was going to be satisfied with the shimming fix.  Long story short, took the 
whole router carriage off and found that whoever put the machine together had 
not made the sure to fully bottom out the tabs into the extruded aluminum rail. 
 Problem solved.  I'm very pleased with the result.

 

Don W.

 

 


Curtis 

[  ]

[  ]

11:18 AM (5 hours ago) 

[  ]

Other recipients: 

Don Here is an idea for you, make a bracket to hold a drill motor behind your 
Legacy, and then using a screw and a jam nut, lock the motor and the drill onto 
your machine. then spin the wood with the drill and turn the crank handle 
slowly along 

[  ]

Don

Here is an idea for you,  make a bracket to hold a drill motor behind your 
Legacy, and then using a screw and a jam nut, lock the motor and the drill onto 
your machine. then spin the wood with the drill and turn the crank handle 
slowly along your spindle. Im not sure where your ridges are coming form, but 
when I use my motor drive ... my spindles look like glass compared to your 
photos.

 

good luck. 

talk to you more latter.

C.A.G.

 


aussiman 

[  ]

[  ]

11:21 AM (5 hours ago) 

[  ]

Other recipients: 

Don have you got both cross slide rails the correct side up the aluminium rails 
are not the same both sides one side has a small groove running down the middle 
which is facing up. on mine anyway. That amount of groove is way too much it 
should be 

[  ]

Don have you got both cross slide rails the correct side up the aluminium rails 
are not the same both sides one side has a small groove running down the middle 
which is facing up. on mine anyway.

That amount of groove is way too much it should be smoother even after you have 
packed it. also no washers between delrin top hats and carrier tray

Bill

 

 

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Re: Accurate setup

[Don W.]

I have the exact same results with my 1200 LOM.  I believe it has do with 
the router not being exactly perpendicular to the rotating stock.  The side 
that has the ridge requires to be shimmed up.  By that, I mean placing shim 
stock between the router and the router sled.  I will be working on this on 
the upcoming weekend.  When I mill to round a stock, I slowly move the 
router and quickly rotate the stock with the rotation coming from under the 
router bit and have the router slightly off center.  This results in a 
spiral all the way down the stock.  BTW, I have found a large tablet at 
Staples with a square grid pattern (close but not exactly 1"x1") that I use 
for drawing out the object to be milled.  I use the bit template downloaded 
from this site to trace out the pattern.  Not as good as having the 
Plexiglas, but is works.   
Sincerely,
Don W.

On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 9:46:48 PM UTC-6, Jim Riggen wrote:

> I tried my first effort tonight. I made a round piece of wood! One problem 
> though. I used a #2704 bit hoping to get a smooth cylinder. Alas, I did 
> not. I think the router and wood are not perpendicular. The error is quite 
> small. How do I correct this?

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Re: Accurate setup

[Tim Krause]

Hi Jim,

Can you take a photo of your results?  The offset of the routerbit is more
important than the four corner measurements.  For starters, is the 2704 bit
really flat? The offset of the bit can be anywhere from where the tip of the
touches center to just short of the center of the bit.  If the four corners
are off you will get a taper.  Like others suggested, is you headstock and
tailstock in alignment?  Use a dead center in the headstock and slide the
tailstock up to the headstock.  Are the points aligning?  That's one source
of taper, but from your message It's hard to tell what is going on.  Also,
what is the speed you are running the bit on. and how are you advancing the
bit.  You might be going too fast.  That's my thoughts.  Photos speak
volumes.

-Tim



- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Riggen" 
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 7:46 PM
Subject: Accurate setup


> I tried my first effort tonight. I made a round piece of wood! One problem
though. I used a #2704 bit hoping to get a smooth cylinder. Alas, I did not.
I think the router and wood are not perpendicular. The error is quite small.
How do I correct this?
>
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legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
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https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
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>

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Re: Accurate setup

['joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills]

forgot to ask, how well does the tailstock line up with the headstock?...a 
.004" misalignment will produce a .009 taper...and the legacy design, in 
regards to headstock and tailstock, while very adequate for all that it 
needs to do, certainly is prone to a small misalignment...joe


>
>
>>>

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Re: Accurate setup

['joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills]

my two cents...nine thousandths, .009, to me is an acceptable tolerance for 
a piece done on a legacy machine...there are times when we are cutting up 
some solids for a job and overnight I have seen a difference of thirty 
thousandths, .030 or 1/32",the next day...I have even gotten drawings from 
architects that had measurements with 1/64th inch dimensions and just had 
to shake my head, LOL...and of course, those were all computer generated 
drawings...as far as the corner spec's go, the greatest difference there 
being thirty thousandths, .030, 1/32", so if you wanted to tweak that a bit 
you would most likely get better results...but like I said, to expect 
metal-turning lathe tolerances on a legacy ( i.e. .001), might be 
unrealistic...even hand sanding can disrupt anyone's tolerances...bill's 
four block method is what we do and if we are off a hair, we don't sweat 
it...just one person's opinion here...joe biunno


>>

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RE: Accurate setup

[Bill Bulkeley]

Setting a mill parallel cut a set of four 2x4 blocks  all exactly the same 
length cut them to the length of the distance between the top of the inner 
rails to the top of the outer rails place them on the inner rails up against 
the outer rails

Then you can feel the top of the block and the top face of the rail to get all 
4 ends level. Nice and easy no measuring for fine adjustments use feeler gauges 
. i have even laid a metal strait edge across the rails over the blocks so i 
have both hands free to adjust the rails.

When turning material round with the bottoming bit make sure it is off centre 
by at least 1/8 inch and turn the material so that it turns up under the cutter 
not over down to the cutter and the material needs to rotate much faster than 
the saddle is travelling along the rails 

Slow feed faster rotating

 

Bill

 

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Riggen
Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2017 9:29 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Cc: curtgeo...@wowway.com
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

Curist,

 

Thank you for the info.  I checked each corner and found the distance from the 
top of the lower rails to the top of the upper rails to be all different. So, I 
did what you suggested with the adjustable square and tried again.  The results 
are quite a bit better but not what I think they should be.  Measuring the 
cylinder at each end (it is 16" long)shows a taper.  At the tail end the 
diameter is 2.908' and at the head end the diameter is 2.917'.  I checked each 
corner again, this time with calipers. The value at each corner is as follows:  
rear tail - 1.351; front tail - 1.341; rear head - 1.371; front head - 1.362.

 

Am I expecting too much or not?

 

Do you and all the other users go through this process each time you change the 
height or tilt of the lower rails? Also, I guess I should ignore the little 
step shaped openings in each of the legs that supposedly allow one to 
"accurately" set the rail height.

 

Thank you for your help,

 

 


On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 7:34:39 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

Woops! wrong link. try this.

 

C.A.G.  
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/881365a1922b7/Router%20Bit%20Rotation.bmp?part=0.0.1.1=0>
 

 


  _  


From: "CURTIS GEORGE" <curtg...@wowway.com  >
To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:31:30 AM
Subject: Re: Accurate setup

 

Hello Jim.

How  small is the Error? and in what way?? do you mean that the 
cylinder/spindle tappers is some way form one side to the other? or there is 
tare out and the shape is not round?

 

There is a small learning curve that needs to be understood when using the 
Legacy, ( Most people just call it the trial and error method.) 

I would start with making sure all four corners are on the same plane, I would 
use an adjustable square and check and make sure the rails are the same height 
form each-other . (this is from the top rail the the lower one.) or if making a 
tapper the two ends are at least the same as each-other.

When cutting make sure your router is 1/4"-1/2" off-set from the center-line of 
the work.  its not as critical but there is an article called clime milling VS 
undercutting. (See attachment.)

 

You may also need to make sure that there is no slop in your slides, your 
machine must move freely but if your slides have some play in them, then the 
slop/play can be transferred into your work. If there is any movement, 
(UP/Down, or side to side) you will need to adjust your slides to remove any 
play.

 

I need to run now.

PLAY with your machine and get to know it better.  I rec emend to use green 
wood or free wood for play, (the fire wood pile or scrap wood) Dont spend much 
money for wood that most likely will not turn out when trying new things.

 

I also like to tell everyone,

Lastly one last note.  Never tell anyone what you are making until its done... 
That way the 4 poster bed, that you planed to make, that turned into a pencil 
box, will not look so bad.;-)

 

Good luck.

And have a GREAT DAY.

 

C.A.G.

 


  _  


From: "Jim Riggen" <jrig...@gmail.com  >
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  >
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 10:46:48 PM
Subject: Accurate setup

 

I tried my first effort tonight. I made a round piece of wood! One problem 
though. I used a #2704 bit hoping to get a smooth cylinder. Alas, I did not. I 
think the router and wood are not perpendicular. The error is quite small. How 
do I correct this?

 

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Re: Accurate setup

[Jim Riggen]

Curist,

Thank you for the info.  I checked each corner and found the distance from 
the top of the lower rails to the top of the upper rails to be all 
different. So, I did what you suggested with the adjustable square and 
tried again.  The results are quite a bit better but not what I think they 
should be.  Measuring the cylinder at each end (it is 16" long)shows a 
taper.  At the tail end the diameter is 2.908' and at the head end the 
diameter is 2.917'.  I checked each corner again, this time with calipers. 
The value at each corner is as follows:  rear tail - 1.351; front tail - 
1.341; rear head - 1.371; front head - 1.362.

Am I expecting too much or not?

Do you and all the other users go through this process each time you change 
the height or tilt of the lower rails? Also, I guess I should ignore the 
little step shaped openings in each of the legs that supposedly allow one 
to "accurately" set the rail height.

Thank you for your help,



On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 7:34:39 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

> Woops! wrong link. try this.
>
> C.A.G.
>
> --
> *From: *"CURTIS GEORGE" <curtg...@wowway.com >
> *To: *legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:31:30 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Accurate setup
>
> Hello Jim.
> How  small is the Error? and in what way?? do you mean that the 
> cylinder/spindle tappers is some way form one side to the other? or there 
> is tare out and the shape is not round?
>
> There is a small learning curve that needs to be understood when using the 
> Legacy, ( Most people just call it the trial and error method.) 
> I would start with making sure all four corners are on the same plane, I 
> would use an adjustable square and check and make sure the rails are the 
> same height form each-other . (this is from the top rail the the lower 
> one.) or if making a tapper the two ends are at least the same as 
> each-other.
> When cutting make sure your router is 1/4"-1/2" off-set from the 
> center-line of the work.  its not as critical but there is an article 
> called clime milling VS undercutting. (See attachment.)
>
> You may also need to make sure that there is no slop in your slides, your 
> machine must move freely but if your slides have some play in them, then 
> the slop/play can be transferred into your work. If there is any movement, 
> (UP/Down, or side to side) you will need to adjust your slides to remove 
> any play.
>
> I need to run now.
> PLAY with your machine and get to know it better.  I rec emend to use 
> green wood or free wood for play, (the fire wood pile or scrap wood) Dont 
> spend much money for wood that most likely will not turn out when trying 
> new things.
>
> I also like to tell everyone,
> Lastly one last note.  Never tell anyone what you are making until its 
> done... That way the 4 poster bed, that you planed to make, that turned 
> into a pencil box, will not look so bad.;-)
>
> Good luck.
> And have a GREAT DAY.
>
> C.A.G.
>
> --
> *From: *"Jim Riggen" <jrig...@gmail.com >
> *To: *"Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
> >
> *Sent: *Monday, February 13, 2017 10:46:48 PM
> *Subject: *Accurate setup
>
> I tried my first effort tonight. I made a round piece of wood! One problem 
> though. I used a #2704 bit hoping to get a smooth cylinder. Alas, I did 
> not. I think the router and wood are not perpendicular. The error is quite 
> small. How do I correct this?
>
> -- 
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> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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>
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Re: Accurate setup

[CURTIS GEORGE]

Hello Jim. 
How small is the Error? and in what way?? do you mean that the cylinder/spindle 
tappers is some way form one side to the other? or there is tare out and the 
shape is not round? 

There is a small learning curve that needs to be understood when using the 
Legacy, ( Most people just call it the trial and error method.) 
I would start with making sure all four corners are on the same plane, I would 
use an adjustable square and check and make sure the rails are the same height 
form each-other . (this is from the top rail the the lower one.) or if making a 
tapper the two ends are at least the same as each-other. 
When cutting make sure your router is 1/4"-1/2" off-set from the center-line of 
the work. its not as critical but there is an article called clime milling VS 
undercutting. (See attachment.) 

You may also need to make sure that there is no slop in your slides, your 
machine must move freely but if your slides have some play in them, then the 
slop/play can be transferred into your work. If there is any movement, 
(UP/Down, or side to side) you will need to adjust your slides to remove any 
play. 

I need to run now. 
PLAY with your machine and get to know it better. I rec emend to use green wood 
or free wood for play, (the fire wood pile or scrap wood) Dont spend much money 
for wood that most likely will not turn out when trying new things. 

I also like to tell everyone, 
Lastly one last note. Never tell anyone what you are making until its done... 
That way the 4 poster bed, that you planed to make, that turned into a pencil 
box, will not look so bad. ;-) 

Good luck. 
And have a GREAT DAY. 

C.A.G. 

- Original Message -

From: "Jim Riggen"  
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills"  
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 10:46:48 PM 
Subject: Accurate setup 

I tried my first effort tonight. I made a round piece of wood! One problem 
though. I used a #2704 bit hoping to get a smooth cylinder. Alas, I did not. I 
think the router and wood are not perpendicular. The error is quite small. How 
do I correct this? 

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"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. 
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--- Begin Message ---
  Up Cut vs. Down Cut Router Bits
  Choosing the right one
  Text & Photos by Tom Hintz
  Choosing between up and down cut router bits is one of many things in 
woodworking that can be frustrating until the reasoning behind the design 
difference is understood a little better. The number of email questions on this 
subject instigated this story.

  The Difference
  Though the flutes run in opposite directions, telling an up cut from a 
down cut bit can be difficult if you cannot imagine their rotation in the 
router. Though a router always turns in the same direction, from the operators 
perspective, that rotation appears to reverse depending on if the router is bit 
down in the common hand-held mode or bit up, as when mounted in a router table.

  With the bit down, the rotation is clockwise. That means the side of the 
bit farthest from the operator is turning left to right, the near side right to 
left. This is very important for feed direction, as we always want the cutting 
edges turning against the feed direction, not with it.

   
The down cut bit (left) leaves very clean edges while the up cut 
version (right) is far better at evacuating chips but that action can fray the 
edges of the cut to some degree.
Click image to enlarge 
  When the router is oriented with the bit up, as when mounted in a router 
table, the side of the bit closest to the operator is turning left to right and 
the back side right to left. Because the wood is fed against the rotation of 
the cutting edges, we almost always work against the front side of the bit.

  If the wood is fed into a router bit on the wrong side, the feed 
direction matches the bits rotation, making a dangerous kick out all but 
certain. Feeding the wood with rather than against bit rotation allows the 
cutting edges to become highly efficient feed dogs