[LUTE-BUILDER] Re: Cassein glue

2013-03-15 Thread Margaret Munck
   Artists use(d) casein glue to glue up panels for painting. The
   advantage is that it is waterproof so isn't softened by the gessoing
   process.

 Casein Glue for Joining
 If it is necessary to glue up a panel, the best thing to use is the
 cheese and lime glue which Cennino describes in Chapter CXII. [The
 Craftsman's Handbook, p. 68.] I have seen a medieval panel, made up
 with this cement, which was [11] so completely eaten away by worms
 that the cement which originally joined two parts together stood out
 in a thin ridge half an inch high, with the marks of the grain of
 the wood visible on both sides of it. It is durable, adhesive, and,
 once dry, insoluble in water. This insolubility is a great
 advantage; for the surface of a panel is kept moist for a long time
 in the process of gessoing, and ordinary glues tend to soften
 dangerously if they are kept damp. If the panel is so wide that it
 cannot be cut from a single plank, two or more planks may be put
 together with this glue, with broad clamps to hold them while it
 dries, of course. Moldings may be glued to the panel with it, and
 nailed through in addition with copper nails, or brads. There are
 several proprietary casein glues on the market now which are good
 and useful, but for gluing wooden panels Cennino's lime-casein
 recipe is better. The alkaline principles of the trade casein glues
 are more soluble than lime, and may do damage; and the dried film
 which these products leave behind resembles a glue, while the lime
 mixture resembles a cement, and is better suited to use in a joint
 between two pieces of wood. Cennino's recipe is easily followed,
 using any lean cheese, mouse cheese, or even cottage cheese,
 consisting of fresh curds strained from the whey. Be sure to get
 pure lime, and not the compound material called Hydraulic lime
 which many builders use instead. (D Thompson, The Practice of
 Tempera Painting, 1936, pp10-11)

   Cennino's recipe is found in his book, Il Libro dell'Arte from about
   1390.:

 To Make a Glue out of Lime and Cheese.
 Chapter C XII
 There is a glue used by workers in wood; this is made of cheese.
 After putting it to soak in water, work it over with a little
 quicklime, using a little board with both hands. Put it between the
 boards; it joins them and fastens them together well.

   A translation of the full text of Cennino's fascinating book is
   [1]here.
   I suppose it might have been used for gluing up the panels of a
   harpsichord lid prior to painting, but generally it is too hard and
   permanent for instrument making.
   I once found and used an old tin of Casco, which was the predecessor of
   Cascamite. It worked fine but smelt distinctly cheesy, and left a
   brownish stain on the wood even though it was very pale itself.
   Regards
   M

   On 15 March 2013 10:15, Martyn Hodgson [2]hodgsonmar...@yahoo.co.uk
   wrote:

Dear Bill,
Many years ago, before I knew better, I made my first instrument
 with
a propriety wood glue 'Cascamite' which I thought at the time was
 a
cassein type adhesive (the similarity in the name). And it was
certainly strong, gap filling (benefit for a novice!) and took
 plenty
of time to go off (a mixed blessing).  But on reading the label
 shortly
after I saw it was made using a urea based compound - which I
 took to
mean piss rather than diary products
I seem to recall some make use of it for gluing parchment for
 roses
etc. I think FoMRHI archives might have something.
regards
Martyn
--- On Fri, 15/3/13, William Samson [3]willsam...@yahoo.co.uk
 wrote:
  From: William Samson [4]willsam...@yahoo.co.uk
  Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Cassein glue
  To: [5]lute-buil...@cs.dartmouth.edu
 [6]lute-buil...@cs.dartmouth.edu
  Date: Friday, 15 March, 2013, 9:33

 Hi,
 An idle question here - I saw on TV how to make casein glue -
   using
 skimmed milk, bicarb and vinegar.  Apparently it's been around
   since
 ancient Egyptian

   times.
 [1][7]http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_8474158_make-casein-glue.html

 Do you know of any uses it might have had in instrument making,
   or
  any
 evidence that it was used at all?
 Bill
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 References
1. [9]http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_8474158_make-casein-glue.html
2. [10]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. http://www.noteaccess.com/Texts/Cennini/
   2. mailto:hodgsonmar...@yahoo.co.uk
   3. mailto:willsam...@yahoo.co.uk
   4. mailto:willsam...@yahoo.co.uk
   

[LUTE] Re: Crotchet rests

2011-03-13 Thread Margaret Munck
   I don't think you will be able to pin down a very precise date, and it
   probably varied from country to country and publisher to publisher. I
   have some late 19thC editions of piano music with the modern crotchet
   rest and others from the same period with the old style.
   On my shelves I find The Revised Church Hymnary (OUP 1929) is still
   using the old style, but The Church Anthem Book (OUP 1933) uses new
   style.  Both of these are properly engraved, i.e. not movable type.
   FWIW, I still use a version of the old style when copying by hand - it
   is much quicker. The stroke goes down-up-right, and looks a bit like a
   letter r. Some hire orchestral parts are reproductions of hand copied
   originals, and some of these, e.g. Malcolm Arnold, also use old style,
   no doubt for the same reason. Arnold's copyist's version looks similar
   a handwritten square root sign, with a curl at the bottom left rather
   than an acute angle.
   I don't thinks this helps you very much!
   regards
   Meg

   On 13 March 2011 13:15, Stewart McCoy [1]lu...@tiscali.co.uk wrote:

   Dear All,
   Not specifically about lutes, I'm afraid, but I thought maybe
 someone
   might be able to help with a query which was passed on to me this
   morning.
   In the 18^th century a crotchet rest looked like a mirror image of
 a
   quaver rest. We don't write them like that any more. When is it
 the
   modern crotchet rest replaced the old one? This is the message I
   received:
   Hope I'm not being a nuisance but thought you might have a quick
 answer
   on a rather abstruse point about the dating of crotchet rests.
 Someone
   here has just given me the printed parts for a 'Premiere
 Divertissement
   pour flute, violon et guitarre'. There's no title page and no
   composer's name. The donor is the wife of a flute playing retired
 GP
   who has had to give up his music because of failing mental
 capacity. He
   remembers the German colleague who gave him the music but he has
 no
   further recollection of the music or idea who its composer might
 be.
   The music is, I think, early 19th century but I have failed to
 identify
   it. (If I sent you a photocopy do you think you (or Philip) could
 look
   at it to see if you had any ideas ?). The music is not, I further
   suspect, of any great significance but it is pleasant enough. The
 parts
   are engraved and printed on laid (i.e.hand-made) rag paper - which
 is
   something of a pointer to an early(ish) date. I have, though, not
 been
   able to spot any identifying water marks. The crotchet rests are
 like
   reversed quaver rests (i.e. not the kind that have two curved
 lines one
   above the other).  How far would this be a clue to the date ?
 When did
   the more modern type of crotchet rest come into normal use ?
 Please
   don't waste time on this but I wondered whether you knew when the
   change in the normal form of the rest happened and could give a
 quick
   answer.
   Can anyone offer any thoughts?
   Stewart McCoy.
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References

   1. mailto:lu...@tiscali.co.uk
   2. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html



[LUTE] Re: New to the list

2011-01-14 Thread Margaret Munck
   Stephen Gottlieb offers a peg turner here:
   [1]http://www.editor.net/lutemaker/accessories.html
   $
   Occasionally pegs are very stiff, or simply a little small, and a peg
   turner is a useful accessory. This is a very simple tool, a turned
   wooden handle with a leather padded slot for the peg, and flat sides to
   prevent it rolling about. -L-20
   $
   I made my own out of a piece of scrap wood - not very difficult with
   basic tools.  It may not look very beautiful but it does the job.

   On 14 January 2011 05:08, Claudia Funder [2]claudia.fun...@gmail.com
   wrote:

  Hi All,
 I've just joined the Lute List and am a new player having taken up
 Lute in 2010. I have a beautiful instrument made for me last year by
 Stephen and Sandi in London which I picked up in May.  Now that it's
 summer I am also experiencing  huge peg turning issues (as per
 Anthony Hind's note of last year).   It's very wet and humid this
 year with all the La Nina rain. (which is all through Aus not just
 in Queensland etc).
 For last few days I haven't been able to turn the pegs at all. I've
 tried the heat/drying technique suggested but given it hasn't really
 helped. (Actually, I might try a hair dryerHmm)
 Today I've managed to move the pegs a bit and have almost re-tuned
 the whole instrument. Now I have numb fingers and thumbs and
 practice will have to wait!
 If anyone can let me know where I can get a peg turner from to help
 that would be just grand. I can't find anything on the interweb...
 Regards to all.
 Claudia Funder
 Melbourne
 Australia.
 To get on or off this list see list information at
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References

   1. http://www.editor.net/lutemaker/accessories.html
   2. mailto:claudia.fun...@gmail.com
   3. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html



[LUTE] Re: fret tying help

2010-11-25 Thread Margaret Munck
   I replaced some of mine for the first time a couple of months ago
   without any problem :) , using the instructions including photos here:
   [1]http://www.wadsworth-lutes.co.uk/frets.htm.  The soldering iron
   worked well for me - I don't have a lighter and matches seemed a bit
   scary
   Meg

   On 25 November 2010 03:39, Suzanne Angevine
   [2]suzanne.angev...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.  In quite a few places
 I encountered descriptions of this simple knot, and it was what I
 was attempting to use.
 My first observation is that all you who have done this a bunch
 don't remember how hard it was at first to get it.  And my second
 observation is this.  while none of you admitted to working the end
 of the gut a little to make it possible to tighten the knot well, I
 bet you all do it, if unconsciously while getting that first loop in
 there and the end burned.
 Our experience with burning the end of the gut into a lump was
 varied. We only replaced the biggest 3 frets, but those 3 pieces of
 gut varied in their response to the flame.  Also, a soldering iron
 actually didn't work all that well for us.  A lighter set on low,
 and then using mostly the (cooler?) tip of the flame seemed to work
 best.
 So now I think I have 3 new usable frets replacing the badly worn
 ones.  That is, as long as the next time I open the case they're
 still attached. :-)
 Suzanne

   --

References

   1. http://www.wadsworth-lutes.co.uk/frets.htm
   2. mailto:suzanne.angev...@gmail.com


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[LUTE] Re: EMS Lutes

2010-11-23 Thread Margaret Munck
   Hi
   My first post, though I have been lurking for a while
   A year or so ago I bought the [1]EMS 7-course special .  Although I
   knew it would be better to pay a lot more for a better one I had no
   idea whether I would get on with it at all, and there were none
   available for hire at the time.
   It was playable out of the box but tuning was a pain as the nut was
   awful and the pegs not great either. I have done a bit of violin
   making, so I was confident enough to make the following modifications:
   replaced the nut and lowered the action slightly, refitted the pegs,
   flattened the fingerboard which was slightly concave so that the frets
   were a little loose in the middle, replaced the nylon frets with gut
   and tidied up the carving of the rose. I also replaced the strings with
   Nylgut (apart from a Pyramid rectified nylon top), following advice
   from Jacob Heringman.
   The new nut is ebony and a big improvement but I think bone would have
   been better. The pegs are as good as I can get them but because of the
   small heads I find it easier to use a simple home-made peg turner for
   tuning.
   These modifications greatly improved the sound and the playability.
   The string spacing at the bridge is a bit close, though, and there is
   nothing I can reasonably do about that. Nevertheless it gave me a great
   deal of pleasure and I have no regrets about buying it.
   The case is servicable, providing adequate protection, but the surface
   is easily scuffed.
   Recently I had the opportunity to buy a second-hand 6-course lute by a
   'proper' maker.  This has a better sound and string spacing but still
   doesn't match up to the work of the best makers, either in sound or in
   price! (I paid -L-1300 including a Kingham case.)
   The EMS lutes are made in Pakistan but the shop does exercise some
   quality control and rejects the duds. For someone who is really
   strapped for cash, can't find a good second-hand deal or one to hire or
   borrow, I think one of these lutes is not a bad option at all and a lot
   better than none.  If she could find one second-hand she would get
   better value for money.  The Lute Society (uk) has an 8-course in the
   small ads just now, and I would consider selling my 7-course if she is
   interested - it is in Glasgow.
   HTH
   Meg

   On 22 November 2010 13:48, Christopher Wilke [2]chriswi...@yahoo.com
   wrote:

 I have a student who came to me with one of those Pakistani lutes
 that he bought on eBay.  I'd heard many horrible stories about these
 instruments, but I have to say that for him it is not a bad
 instrument.  It is certainly not the most resonant lute, but neither
 is it overly heavy or guitar-like.  The neck is quite straight and
 the string spacing is fine.  The action right now is slightly higher
 than I like, but its within a range that could be fixed with larger
 frets.  (It's too high for him as a beginning student, but advanced
 players might actually like the action where it is.)  All told, I've
 played low-end lutes by name makers that are only marginally better,
 but at much higher cost.
 I asked him if he did any modification and he said that he didn't
 know the first thing about lutes (his main instrument is bassoon)
 and that it came as-is right out of the box.  If - and that's a big
 IF - I knew that all of these lutes are like this, I wouldn't
 hesitate to recommend one to someone wanting an inexpensive entry
 level instrument.  I've heard others say that the quality control is
 low on these lutes, however, so maybe my student just lucky.
 Chris


 Hi all,

 I have a student interested in taking up the lute,
but she doesn't want to spent too much money initially. She
asked about the EMS lutes, unfortunately I have never seen
or heard one before so I can't really offer she any advise.

 I was hoping anyone familiar with these lutes
could comment on their quality / value for money, and
whether these lutes are a good option for a beginner with a
small budget.

 Cheers,
 Andrew





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   To get on or off this list see list information at
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References

   1. 
http://www.earlymusicshop.com/product.aspx/en-GB/1000586-ems-7-course-renaissance-lute-special
   2. mailto:chriswi...@yahoo.com
   3. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html
   4. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html