Re: [M100] A Few Remaining TPDD/TPDD2 Floppy Drive Belts
Thanks for everything Ken! Spencer McCormack. On Tuesday, April 2, 2024 at 11:27:55 PM EDT, Ken Gregg wrote: Thanks to all who have shown interest in and/or purchased these items, since I posted to this list back in November 2023. At this point, I have only 5 of the drive TPDD/TPDD2 floppy drive belts remaining, and have sold out all of the TPDD2 utility floppy disks. Some people have ordered up to three or four belts at a time, so these last few could go fast. Discounts are still applied, if you purchase more than one belt in a single order. When these few remaining belts are gone, I won't be restocking. So, if you've been putting off ordering a belt or two, now's your chance. Note: As mentioned in a previous post, I had series of bad experiences with loss and damage shipping internationally (even from the US to Canada), so I stopped shipping internationally several years ago. Thanks for your understanding. Here is the link to the belt on ebay. Floppy Drive Belt for Tandy Portable Disk Drive TPDD1 26-3808 or TPDD2 26-3814: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304695833943
Re: [M100] virtualt on Linux problem
I found this link. You may have already seen this though. I talks about 8 not the 9 release. libraries - Why is libjpeg.so.8 missing from Debian? - Unix & Linux Stack Exchange On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 10:05:30 PM EST, Hiraghm wrote: trying to run virtualt on Linux Mint Debian Edition, I get this error immediately: libjpeg.so.9 no such file or directory I do have libjpeg on my system, and I can't find libjpeg.so.9 anywhere; on my machine or online. Can anyone advise me how to get virtualt working on Linux?
Re: [M100] virtualt on Linux problem
What I know about Linux is it's a linked object that's shared. Typically in /lib or /usr/lib. It's a library file and you can't find it is strange. Have you checked the Debian install media? It may simply be on some hardware media of a piece of hardware. On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 10:05:30 PM EST, Hiraghm wrote: trying to run virtualt on Linux Mint Debian Edition, I get this error immediately: libjpeg.so.9 no such file or directory I do have libjpeg on my system, and I can't find libjpeg.so.9 anywhere; on my machine or online. Can anyone advise me how to get virtualt working on Linux?
Re: [M100] T102 Nite Lite
Profoundly cool! On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:03 PM Mike Stein wrote: > Nice!! > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:38 PM Peter Noeth wrote: > >> I recently finished my T102 "Nite Lite" v2 and am attaching pictures, >> which I hope make it through to the list. >> >> I originally attached a "gooseneck" type book light I got from Barnes & >> Noble to an empty DB-25 connector and shell years ago by taking the "spring >> clamp / battery holder" off the light and placing the batteries inside the >> DB-25 shell. After responding to SteveA's recent query about a reading >> light solution, I decided to make a more refined solution that is powered >> by the computer itself. >> >> I decided to keep using the RS-232 port for connection as my gooseneck is >> somewhat too short to use the Barcode Port. The light would not reach to >> the midpoint of the display for an even illumination. >> >> I jumpered +5v from the power supply to unused pin 14 (secondary Tx, an >> output signal) on the RS-232 connector and take ground thru pin 7. The >> light draws ~25mA as opposed to its normal ~33mA from a +6v battery (2 2032 >> coin cells in series). It lights up the display and keyboard nicely, but is >> not *really* bright. I guess these book lights are not supposed to be >> real bright when used in a pitch dark room so as not to blind the reader. >> >> Haven't used it enough to know how much it would shorten the normal 20 >> hour AA battery life, but since I usually use an external 6v lantern >> battery, it probably won't make much difference to my "use model" anyway. >> >> Regards, >> >> PeterN >> >
Re: [M100] Model 200 repair video
Merry Christmas all. Spencer On Saturday, December 24, 2022 at 08:08:20 AM EST, wrote: Hi all, In this video we take a look at a Model 200 with an interesting problem. It turns itself on and you can’t turn it off. Once off you can’t turn it back on again. This was an interesting problem, and I get thrown off track a bit at first. We get there in the end with a very simple solution. https://youtu.be/66DIgwN0wvM Merry Christmas, Jeff Birt
Re: [M100] Wiring Question
Works great!! I'm tickled. I did it exactly the way you recommended. It looks great too! I'll get the USB port today and install it. I'll send a pic of the finished product. Words can't express enough gratitude for your help! Spencer On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 06:11:33 AM EST, Brian K. White wrote: Ok the pins are probably like this: http://switches-connectors-custom.cwind.com/Asset/GRB293B01BR.pdf The top-right corner shows the wiring for oins 1,2,3, and further down on the right shows where 1, 2, & 3 are physically. And the pics from the ebay listing also show pin number 1,2,3 in order like that (They aren't always, I almost posted a link to an identical looking switch that had the center pin numbered 1, but still had the same physical arrangement.) And it looks like the light probably takes 120vac. Which means hook the incoming hot to pin 1 (silver not in the center) load to pin 2 (silver in the center) neutral to pin 3 (the brass one) neutral also to the other side of the load. When you open the switch, neither the load nor the light gets power. When you close the switch, both the load and the light gets power. Which I believe is more or less what you guessed in the first place when you said ground to the brass one. Except in this case there is no ground and not even any consistent neutral, and you don't want to treat anything as actually gnd or neutral. Without a polarized plug, you're just picking one of the two wires at random and calling it "hot" and calling the other "neutral", but in this case they are just labels to keep track of them, the "neutral" isn't really neutral. You can't tie either wire to gnd or to the chassis anywhere (if there is any chassis or metal case), and the chassis must be fully insulated. Both wires are treated as hot in that sense. Personally I just would not use a non-polarized plug. I'd get a new normal cord and the white wire is neutral and the black wire is hot. -- bkw On 12/9/22 15:04, Spencer wrote: > Hello Brian. > > It's a SPST 3 position switch. Link ==> 10x SPST Red Neon Light On/Off > Round Rocker Switch 6A/250V 10A/125V AC | eBay > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/274361807522> > > Been busy - darn gum surgery. Not fun ;-( > > > On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 07:16:09 PM EST, Brian K. White > wrote: > > > If the plug is not polarized then there is no hot or neutral. > > One wire IS hot (swings from -120v to +120v relative to GND). > And one wire IS neutral (stays at 0v relative to GND). > > Relative to each other, it's the same 120vac either direction, or > rather, there is no such thing as a direction. > > But if the plug is not polarized then you have to treat both wires as > equally hot, since every time it's plugged in either side could be the > hot side that time, at random. > > Switches come in all kinds of arrangements, so the only way to know how > to wire this particular switch is to test it with a continuity tester > and observe what connections it makes in each position, or consult it's > datasheet. Sometimes there is a diagram of the connections drawn right > on the body, otherwise google it's model number or find the datasheet > from the website where you got it or perhaps it's packaging. > > A rocker with 3 pins and 2 positions (you didn't say how many positions > btw so I'm assuming) is fairly likely to be a center-common SPDT on-on, > hopefully non-shorting (break-before-make). Meaning the center pin is > connected to either one side or the other at any given time. When you're > turning one pin off, you're also turning the other pin on at the same > time. In this case since yoiu only care about turning something on/off, > you would just use the common pin and either one of the others. You just > run your hot wire from the wall to the center pin and connect the load > to either of the other pins, either one, doesn't matter, but only one, > and leave the other pin unconnected. (might want to cover it with > heat-shrink) > > Except that is just one common configuration and might not be right for > your switch. > > Really the switch could be totally different. It might have 3 positions > and be on-off-on, or the common pin might not be the center pin, or it > could be a lighted switch where only 2 pins are for switching and the > 3rd pin is to power the light, and that light may also possibly not take > the same voltage as what's passing through the main pins. > > Even a lighted switch where at least one of the pins is definitely > special and different, still doesn't necessarily have a right way to > wire it, since it's still up to you to decide when you want the light to > be on. Usually you want the light to reflect the power state, on when > the device is turned on
Re: [M100] Wiring Question
Bottom line for me is To Learn and Enjoy. I've learned quite a bit from you guys! The detail is great! Since it's a dual power supply I plan on adding a USB port to be used with the smaller voltmeter screen(waiting on the part). In today's world USB is common now and not just banana plugs. I built the internal power supply about 2 years ago. Got it from JameCo with the power cord and all parts. Here's the link. Adjustable Power Supply Kit JE215 Jameco Kitpro It's funny but I have more money into this unit than the more sophisticated one I bought a few months back. Originally when I bought the one from JameCo I hated that I hated to use a small flat head screwdriver to adjust the voltage and THEN put a meter to the terminals before using it on projects. Hence me making the changes. Now I'm close to seeing it to fruition. I'll send another pic when I add the PS rocker (bottom left) and the USB port (round - easier to drill the hole) bottom right. Thanks S On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 02:56:40 PM EST, Mike Stein wrote: Well, it's rare that Brian and I completely agree on anything (almost as rare as non-polarized line cords ;-) but he's summed it up perfectly. Just to be sure, I'd double check with a meter that the switch contacts are indeed the two silver pins (1 & 2); connecting the line across those would not be a good idea. Just curious: where'd you get that cord? Aside from items that have an isolating transformer, non-polarized cords and double-insulation seem to be becoming more and more common on small appliances that used to have three-prong grounded cords. That supply looks gorgeous by the way! m On Fri, Dec 9, 2022 at 8:32 PM Spencer wrote: I've included a few pics. I thought i had it figured out, but maybe not. I actually haven't put on a new AC rocker yet - still waiting on them. Here's the link => 10x SPST Red Neon Light On/Off Round Rocker Switch 6A/250V 10A/125V AC | eBay This project has really turned out well, and I don't want to kill it wiring the rocker wrong!! The pics do show both blades are the same so my eyes tell me, but they've been wrong before. Let me know what you think of the pics. Thanks Spencer On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 07:35:20 PM EST, Mike Stein wrote: Glad you got it sorted. BTW, not that it matters much in your application but I'd be surprised if that cord were not polarized. Most cords like that are, and yours looks like it has a ridge on one side that denotes the neutral (some cords use a white stripe). Are you sure that one blade of the plug isn't wider than the other so it can only plug in one way? It's not a matter of plus or minus but of safety; on a lamp for instance where you can touch the threaded part while changing a bulb you want to be sure that it's connected to ground and not the 115+ volt hot 'line' side and that the switch turns off the 115V and not the grounded 'neutral'. m On Fri, Dec 9, 2022 at 3:04 PM Spencer wrote: Hello Brian. It's a SPST 3 position switch. Link ==> 10x SPST Red Neon Light On/Off Round Rocker Switch 6A/250V 10A/125V AC | eBay Been busy - darn gum surgery. Not fun ;-( On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 07:16:09 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: If the plug is not polarized then there is no hot or neutral. One wire IS hot (swings from -120v to +120v relative to GND). And one wire IS neutral (stays at 0v relative to GND). Relative to each other, it's the same 120vac either direction, or rather, there is no such thing as a direction. But if the plug is not polarized then you have to treat both wires as equally hot, since every time it's plugged in either side could be the hot side that time, at random. Switches come in all kinds of arrangements, so the only way to know how to wire this particular switch is to test it with a continuity tester and observe what connections it makes in each position, or consult it's datasheet. Sometimes there is a diagram of the connections drawn right on the body, otherwise google it's model number or find the datasheet from the website where you got it or perhaps it's packaging. A rocker with 3 pins and 2 positions (you didn't say how many positions btw so I'm assuming) is fairly likely to be a center-common SPDT on-on, hopefully non-shorting (break-before-make). Meaning the center pin is connected to either one side or the other at any given time. When you're turning one pin off, you're also turning the other pin on at the same time. In this case since yoiu only care about turning something on/off, you would just use the common pin and either one of the others. You just run your hot wire from the wall to the center pin and connect the load to either of the other pins, either one, doesn't matter, but only one, and leave the other pin unconnected. (might want to cover it with heat-shrink) Except that is just one common configuration and might not be right for your switch. Really
Re: [M100] Wiring Question
Makes sense to me! The switches will arrive today, so I'll be studying your email and some good tips from Mike Stein. Which I'd like to thank both of you!! Only been doing this fun stuff for 5 years, so I've got a lot to learn. Haven't done any AC stuff yet, so I want to exercise caution for me and my project. Just for info the larger display/voltmeter I used requires an external power supply of 5vdc to illuminate the LEDs. I decided to mount a 4AA holder on the back but wired it to a voltage regulator to drop it down to 5vdc necessary for the voltmeter display. I would guess that 6vdc wouldn't hurt the 5vdc requirement but didn't want to chance it. Thanks very much for you guys help! S On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 06:11:33 AM EST, Brian K. White wrote: Ok the pins are probably like this: http://switches-connectors-custom.cwind.com/Asset/GRB293B01BR.pdf The top-right corner shows the wiring for oins 1,2,3, and further down on the right shows where 1, 2, & 3 are physically. And the pics from the ebay listing also show pin number 1,2,3 in order like that (They aren't always, I almost posted a link to an identical looking switch that had the center pin numbered 1, but still had the same physical arrangement.) And it looks like the light probably takes 120vac. Which means hook the incoming hot to pin 1 (silver not in the center) load to pin 2 (silver in the center) neutral to pin 3 (the brass one) neutral also to the other side of the load. When you open the switch, neither the load nor the light gets power. When you close the switch, both the load and the light gets power. Which I believe is more or less what you guessed in the first place when you said ground to the brass one. Except in this case there is no ground and not even any consistent neutral, and you don't want to treat anything as actually gnd or neutral. Without a polarized plug, you're just picking one of the two wires at random and calling it "hot" and calling the other "neutral", but in this case they are just labels to keep track of them, the "neutral" isn't really neutral. You can't tie either wire to gnd or to the chassis anywhere (if there is any chassis or metal case), and the chassis must be fully insulated. Both wires are treated as hot in that sense. Personally I just would not use a non-polarized plug. I'd get a new normal cord and the white wire is neutral and the black wire is hot. -- bkw On 12/9/22 15:04, Spencer wrote: > Hello Brian. > > It's a SPST 3 position switch. Link ==> 10x SPST Red Neon Light On/Off > Round Rocker Switch 6A/250V 10A/125V AC | eBay > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/274361807522> > > Been busy - darn gum surgery. Not fun ;-( > > > On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 07:16:09 PM EST, Brian K. White > wrote: > > > If the plug is not polarized then there is no hot or neutral. > > One wire IS hot (swings from -120v to +120v relative to GND). > And one wire IS neutral (stays at 0v relative to GND). > > Relative to each other, it's the same 120vac either direction, or > rather, there is no such thing as a direction. > > But if the plug is not polarized then you have to treat both wires as > equally hot, since every time it's plugged in either side could be the > hot side that time, at random. > > Switches come in all kinds of arrangements, so the only way to know how > to wire this particular switch is to test it with a continuity tester > and observe what connections it makes in each position, or consult it's > datasheet. Sometimes there is a diagram of the connections drawn right > on the body, otherwise google it's model number or find the datasheet > from the website where you got it or perhaps it's packaging. > > A rocker with 3 pins and 2 positions (you didn't say how many positions > btw so I'm assuming) is fairly likely to be a center-common SPDT on-on, > hopefully non-shorting (break-before-make). Meaning the center pin is > connected to either one side or the other at any given time. When you're > turning one pin off, you're also turning the other pin on at the same > time. In this case since yoiu only care about turning something on/off, > you would just use the common pin and either one of the others. You just > run your hot wire from the wall to the center pin and connect the load > to either of the other pins, either one, doesn't matter, but only one, > and leave the other pin unconnected. (might want to cover it with > heat-shrink) > > Except that is just one common configuration and might not be right for > your switch. > > Really the switch could be totally different. It might have 3 positions > and be on-off-on, or the common pin might not be the center pin, or it > could be a lighted switch where only 2 pins are for switching and the > 3rd pin
Re: [M100] Wiring Question
Hello Brian. It's a SPST 3 position switch. Link ==> 10x SPST Red Neon Light On/Off Round Rocker Switch 6A/250V 10A/125V AC | eBay Been busy - darn gum surgery. Not fun ;-( On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 07:16:09 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: If the plug is not polarized then there is no hot or neutral. One wire IS hot (swings from -120v to +120v relative to GND). And one wire IS neutral (stays at 0v relative to GND). Relative to each other, it's the same 120vac either direction, or rather, there is no such thing as a direction. But if the plug is not polarized then you have to treat both wires as equally hot, since every time it's plugged in either side could be the hot side that time, at random. Switches come in all kinds of arrangements, so the only way to know how to wire this particular switch is to test it with a continuity tester and observe what connections it makes in each position, or consult it's datasheet. Sometimes there is a diagram of the connections drawn right on the body, otherwise google it's model number or find the datasheet from the website where you got it or perhaps it's packaging. A rocker with 3 pins and 2 positions (you didn't say how many positions btw so I'm assuming) is fairly likely to be a center-common SPDT on-on, hopefully non-shorting (break-before-make). Meaning the center pin is connected to either one side or the other at any given time. When you're turning one pin off, you're also turning the other pin on at the same time. In this case since yoiu only care about turning something on/off, you would just use the common pin and either one of the others. You just run your hot wire from the wall to the center pin and connect the load to either of the other pins, either one, doesn't matter, but only one, and leave the other pin unconnected. (might want to cover it with heat-shrink) Except that is just one common configuration and might not be right for your switch. Really the switch could be totally different. It might have 3 positions and be on-off-on, or the common pin might not be the center pin, or it could be a lighted switch where only 2 pins are for switching and the 3rd pin is to power the light, and that light may also possibly not take the same voltage as what's passing through the main pins. Even a lighted switch where at least one of the pins is definitely special and different, still doesn't necessarily have a right way to wire it, since it's still up to you to decide when you want the light to be on. Usually you want the light to reflect the power state, on when the device is turned on. Or maybe you want the light to be a pilot light that is on at all times so that you can find it in the dark, or so that it indicates when power is available to the device rather than indicating when the device is turned on. There is unlikely to be a particular pin for GND. It's possible if the switch has a metal body, or for example light switches in walls, or if it has a light it might have a specific gnd pin, but generally there is no such thing as a gnd pin on a switch, they are just contacts which you connect to whatever your application requires. The closest thing to a right or wrong is a general rule that for a mains power switch would be to switch the hot side rather than the neutral side, simply so that when it's in the off position, the least amount of things are hot. But since you have a non-polarized plug, both wires are equally likely to be hot at any given time, and so you just pick either one for the switch, and treat the entire inside of the box as hot, and make sure the whole box is well sealed and insulated, and users are well protected from the internals. Or better, get rid of the non-polarized plug and use a polarized one, and then you have an actual hot side to treat as the hot side. -- bkw On 12/5/22 21:52, Spencer wrote: > Hello > > Got a wiring question. > > I built a simple 18VDC PS from JameCo and I put it in a project box. > I've added two pots for adjusting power, banana plugs for external > power, two mini voltmeters and will add a USB port for 5VDC. All this > works but now I want to add a AC rocker. The above was simple except > for the meticulous care that's needed to drill into a metal box. Now the > next item I want to add is an AC rocker switch but I'm a bit unsure how. > It's a 3 terminal AC rocker, and my understanding is the bronze terminal > is ground, the center is the power source, and the 3rd one is > accessory/load. What confuses me is the proper way to wire it. If the > plug was polarized I wouldn't be confused. I've attached a photo of the > back of the PS which shows the two power supply wires (one with writing > and the other none). The videos I've seen doesn't explain which is > power/live and which is ground using this type of wire. The plug isn't > polarized so it's not easy for me to
Re: [M100] Wiring Question
Never mind; I figured it out.Spencer On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 09:52:25 PM EST, Spencer wrote: Hello Got a wiring question. I built a simple 18VDC PS from JameCo and I put it in a project box. I've added two pots for adjusting power, banana plugs for external power, two mini voltmeters and will add a USB port for 5VDC. All this works but now I want to add a AC rocker. The above was simple except for the meticulous care that's needed to drill into a metal box. Now the next item I want to add is an AC rocker switch but I'm a bit unsure how. It's a 3 terminal AC rocker, and my understanding is the bronze terminal is ground, the center is the power source, and the 3rd one is accessory/load. What confuses me is the proper way to wire it. If the plug was polarized I wouldn't be confused. I've attached a photo of the back of the PS which shows the two power supply wires (one with writing and the other none). The videos I've seen doesn't explain which is power/live and which is ground using this type of wire. The plug isn't polarized so it's not easy for me to determine + from -. I put a meter to the wires inside the PS and it shows 119 and if I switch the probes it still shows 119. What I was expecting was to see -119 when the probes were wrong and this would've told me which is + and - but it didn't. So which wire goes to the power source terminal and which wire goes to the ground terminal? Do I simply wire it by wiring together the wires with writing and the wires without writing? I hope I've made sense. Thanks
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
I'll look into teeny, but first I want to see if I can work out using TS-DOS with my TpDD1. Now when I try to format a new disk it fails with Communication Error. Eh one frustration after another. On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 07:22:37 PM EST, Stephen Adolph wrote: Well that would be good news I think. Question-* did you try to load up TEENY.CO? If you can get that running, it can work with TPDD directly without needing the Utility disk. If you transfer this attached TEENY.DO to your laptop via serial transfer, Then load and run in BASIC,You will get TEENY.CO in the directory. Depending on what memory location TEENY is set up to run at, you can issue a CLEAR command in BASIC, and then it should run right away. Go into BASICtypeLOADM "TEENY.CO you will get three locations Start End EXE type CLEAR0, where is the value of START. exit BASIC, and select TEENY. Should be running. Teeny howto is here:http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=TEENY On Sat, Nov 19, 2022 at 2:36 PM Spencer wrote: Does everybody want to hear a funny??? Guess what? After reading links from Brian (not the sheep dip guy Bruce) I realized there is a BIG difference with the TPPD1 and the TPPD2. IT ACTUALLY says Portable Disk Drive for TPPD1 and Portable Disk Drive 2 for TPPD2 right on the face! What about that?? ;-) Yep brain fart! So I can do the bootstrap, but no Utility Disk. I looked at the link Brian gave me where I can buy the Utility Disk for $15 BUT what I have to wait???. ;-) Dang! All this time I was treating it like a TPPD2 - wow! Too much on my mind! Spencer P.S. Let me hear the chuckles now. ;-) On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 09:35:51 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: On 11/15/22 20:12, Spencer wrote: > I found this llink > (Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf > (archive.org) > <https://ia802901.us.archive.org/13/items/tandyportablediskdriveservicemanual263808stext/Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf>) > and it says "Service Manual" on the first page. It's not the typical service > manuals I've seen. That's the software manual and is known, and is for TPDD1 not TPDD2. One of the pages I linked already has it: tandy.wiki/TPDD And there you will also find an actual normal service manual, but again for TPDD1 not TPDD2. When I said no one has turned up a service manual, I meant for TPDD2 because you were talking about a TPDD2. I also didn't realize you already had a whole other working TPDD2 to compare against. If I had known you already had a whole other TPDD2 and already made it work, I could have skipped a lot of that because you've already successfully done it, which proves your 200 is ok, your disk is ok, you have the right kind of disk, your cable is ok, and you know how to perform the bootstrap. If you have TS-DOS in rom, then really that's the best, and in that case, you actually don't want to try to install Floppy because they conflict. Just use one or the other. I mean there are ways but it's not worth getting into that. The simple answer is if you have TS-DOS, especially in ROM or via REX#, then just use that and don't even bother with the bootstrap procedure or Floppy. I brought up pdd.sh just for interrogating the drive at a lower level so you can debug what's wrong. It can show at least if the drive firmware is running and communicating and it's just a physical problem for instance. "drive not ready" from TS-DOS doesn't tell you really anything. But it's barely documented so it's also kind of arcane to try to use unless you're me I guess. But for instance maybe if you try a format, and it spins the drive and steps the head, but always fails verify, or if trying to read a raw sector always yields all 00's or drive not ready, maybe that means there's a problem with the head or the cable to the head. If the head never steps, that's a separate cable if I remember correctly. TPDD2 is a lot easier than TPDD1, but even on TPDD2 a couple of the cables can be a tricky. So there is some chance still for a pretty easy fix by checking just major functions like that to see if some parts work and only some parts don't work, before having to think about maybe something more complicated wrong with the electronics. Could be something really mechanically simple too like the disk media isn't being pressed against the head if there's anything wrong with that black arm or the little microfiber pad or the metal part that raises and lowers the arm. As for the crazy rocket science, that is just what's going on behind the scenes. The procedure is fast and easy and works, if you do it exactly as specified in the manual, but I have seen people fail to do that, but think they were doing what it said, and think it didn't work. Because although the directions work, they don't say why they work. So I was just showing w
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Does everybody want to hear a funny??? Guess what? After reading links from Brian (not the sheep dip guy Bruce) I realized there is a BIG difference with the TPPD1 and the TPPD2. IT ACTUALLY says Portable Disk Drive for TPPD1 and Portable Disk Drive 2 for TPPD2 right on the face! What about that?? ;-) Yep brain fart! So I can do the bootstrap, but no Utility Disk. I looked at the link Brian gave me where I can buy the Utility Disk for $15 BUT what I have to wait???. ;-) Dang! All this time I was treating it like a TPPD2 - wow! Too much on my mind! Spencer P.S. Let me hear the chuckles now. ;-) On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 09:35:51 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: On 11/15/22 20:12, Spencer wrote: > I found this llink > (Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf > (archive.org) > <https://ia802901.us.archive.org/13/items/tandyportablediskdriveservicemanual263808stext/Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf>) > and it says "Service Manual" on the first page. It's not the typical service > manuals I've seen. That's the software manual and is known, and is for TPDD1 not TPDD2. One of the pages I linked already has it: tandy.wiki/TPDD And there you will also find an actual normal service manual, but again for TPDD1 not TPDD2. When I said no one has turned up a service manual, I meant for TPDD2 because you were talking about a TPDD2. I also didn't realize you already had a whole other working TPDD2 to compare against. If I had known you already had a whole other TPDD2 and already made it work, I could have skipped a lot of that because you've already successfully done it, which proves your 200 is ok, your disk is ok, you have the right kind of disk, your cable is ok, and you know how to perform the bootstrap. If you have TS-DOS in rom, then really that's the best, and in that case, you actually don't want to try to install Floppy because they conflict. Just use one or the other. I mean there are ways but it's not worth getting into that. The simple answer is if you have TS-DOS, especially in ROM or via REX#, then just use that and don't even bother with the bootstrap procedure or Floppy. I brought up pdd.sh just for interrogating the drive at a lower level so you can debug what's wrong. It can show at least if the drive firmware is running and communicating and it's just a physical problem for instance. "drive not ready" from TS-DOS doesn't tell you really anything. But it's barely documented so it's also kind of arcane to try to use unless you're me I guess. But for instance maybe if you try a format, and it spins the drive and steps the head, but always fails verify, or if trying to read a raw sector always yields all 00's or drive not ready, maybe that means there's a problem with the head or the cable to the head. If the head never steps, that's a separate cable if I remember correctly. TPDD2 is a lot easier than TPDD1, but even on TPDD2 a couple of the cables can be a tricky. So there is some chance still for a pretty easy fix by checking just major functions like that to see if some parts work and only some parts don't work, before having to think about maybe something more complicated wrong with the electronics. Could be something really mechanically simple too like the disk media isn't being pressed against the head if there's anything wrong with that black arm or the little microfiber pad or the metal part that raises and lowers the arm. As for the crazy rocket science, that is just what's going on behind the scenes. The procedure is fast and easy and works, if you do it exactly as specified in the manual, but I have seen people fail to do that, but think they were doing what it said, and think it didn't work. Because although the directions work, they don't say why they work. So I was just showing what is actually happening. -- bkw > > Yes I ran the IPL from Bank1 which was a file I created by following the > TPDD2 Operations Manual; within the IPL file it was simply => RUN > "COM:98N1ENN." I ran it with the drive off then I turned it on - nothing > happens. With my drive that works this command works fine, but with this > one with problems it doesn't work. Agree running this command from basic > would do the same thing. On pg 8 of the Ops Manual it says exactly what > to do as far as saving this IPL BA file. No rocket science or convoluted > details but simple straight forward details. I know it's not the serial > cable or port on the T200 because it works with my other TPDD2. So on > the misbehaving drive it never shows the "INITIAL PROGRAM LOADER II" > header. Didn't get any message about "SYSTEM EXISTS" - nada. Got the > Util diskette with Backup.ba and Fremem.ba and other files. My serial > cable is the one that I bought 2 years ago that came with th
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
lol. I needed a smile today. Everybody makes an occasional typo, well most anyway. Oh I meant to say Brian not Bruce. I worked with a Bruce White for twenty years and he was alot like you: super-hacker etc. When I needed technical advisement I went to him first. Spencer On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 12:35:31 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: And what was I thinking when I wrote "buy now" ? a used car? haha -- bkw On 11/17/22 10:56, Spencer wrote: > yeah typo. I must have been thinking of a Bruce White I used to work with. > > On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 12:52:56 AM EST, Daryl Tester > wrote: > > > "He's Brian, and so's his wife!" - I think Bruce was in charge of the > sheep dip. > > On 17/11/22 12:06, Spencer wrote: > > > Thanks for your suggestions and time Bruce! > > > > Spencer > > > > On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 05:17:31 PM EST, Brian K. White > mailto:b.kenyo...@gmail.com>> wrote: > -- bkw
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
yeah typo. I must have been thinking of a Bruce White I used to work with. On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 12:52:56 AM EST, Daryl Tester wrote: "He's Brian, and so's his wife!" - I think Bruce was in charge of the sheep dip. On 17/11/22 12:06, Spencer wrote: > Thanks for your suggestions and time Bruce! > > Spencer > > On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 05:17:31 PM EST, Brian K. White > wrote:
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Thanks for your suggestions and time Bruce! Spencer On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 05:17:31 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: What can I say, buy now, I am simply clairvoyant. haha People ask for more info but that's for beginners. All I need to hear is where you eat lunch and I can tell you it's from the kickback spikes on the power lines from the large electric motors in a factory elsewhere in your office building. -- bkw On 11/15/22 23:36, Spencer wrote: > VERY interesting! You may have hit on something I'll look into. That > part you mentioned " > black arm or the little microfiber pad or the metal part that raises and > lowers the arm" makes me think it could be that. Why do I say this? The > first problem I had to remedy was when I first tried to insert a floppy > it wouldn't go in the drive. When I opened it the mechanism was > stuck/out of place/gummed up or someone jammed it up, and there was some > green (looked like corrosion) goo I had to clean, but the metal pieces > were not hooking up right keeping the diskette from being inserted, and > the black arm was under that small piece of metal and it didn't look > right. I opened my other drive and the black arm piece, if memory serves > me right, was on top of that small piece of metal. I gently but with > slight pressure put the piece back right when comparing my other drive. > I also thought the black arm pad didn't look quite as close to the mylar > (when I inserted the diskette) as my other drive. SO it's likely you hit > the nail on the head (excuse the pun). I'll look again, but to repair > this may be out of my league to repair. Repairing floppy heads should be > done by the experienced imho unless a guided procedure is easily understood. > > Thanks! > > On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 09:35:51 PM EST, Brian K. White > wrote: > > > On 11/15/22 20:12, Spencer wrote: > > I found this llink > > (Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf > > (archive.org) > > > <https://ia802901.us.archive.org/13/items/tandyportablediskdriveservicemanual263808stext/Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf > > <https://ia802901.us.archive.org/13/items/tandyportablediskdriveservicemanual263808stext/Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf>>) > and it says "Service Manual" on the first page. It's not the typical service > manuals I've seen. > > That's the software manual and is known, and is for TPDD1 not TPDD2. > One of the pages I linked already has it: > tandy.wiki/TPDD > And there you will also find an actual normal service manual, but again > for TPDD1 not TPDD2. > > When I said no one has turned up a service manual, I meant for TPDD2 > because you were talking about a TPDD2. > > I also didn't realize you already had a whole other working TPDD2 to > compare against. > > If I had known you already had a whole other TPDD2 and already made it > work, I could have skipped a lot of that because you've already > successfully done it, which proves your 200 is ok, your disk is ok, you > have the right kind of disk, your cable is ok, and you know how to > perform the bootstrap. > > If you have TS-DOS in rom, then really that's the best, and in that > case, you actually don't want to try to install Floppy because they > conflict. Just use one or the other. I mean there are ways but it's not > worth getting into that. The simple answer is if you have TS-DOS, > especially in ROM or via REX#, then just use that and don't even bother > with the bootstrap procedure or Floppy. > > I brought up pdd.sh just for interrogating the drive at a lower level so > you can debug what's wrong. It can show at least if the drive firmware > is running and communicating and it's just a physical problem for > instance. "drive not ready" from TS-DOS doesn't tell you really anything. > > But it's barely documented so it's also kind of arcane to try to use > unless you're me I guess. But for instance maybe if you try a format, > and it spins the drive and steps the head, but always fails verify, or > if trying to read a raw sector always yields all 00's or drive not > ready, maybe that means there's a problem with the head or the cable to > the head. If the head never steps, that's a separate cable if I remember > correctly. TPDD2 is a lot easier than TPDD1, but even on TPDD2 a couple > of the cables can be a tricky. So there is some chance still for a > pretty easy fix by checking just major functions like that to see if > some parts work and only some parts don't work, before having to think > about maybe something more complicated wrong with the electronics. > > Could be something r
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
VERY interesting! You may have hit on something I'll look into. That part you mentioned "black arm or the little microfiber pad or the metal part that raises and lowers the arm" makes me think it could be that. Why do I say this? The first problem I had to remedy was when I first tried to insert a floppy it wouldn't go in the drive. When I opened it the mechanism was stuck/out of place/gummed up or someone jammed it up, and there was some green (looked like corrosion) goo I had to clean, but the metal pieces were not hooking up right keeping the diskette from being inserted, and the black arm was under that small piece of metal and it didn't look right. I opened my other drive and the black arm piece, if memory serves me right, was on top of that small piece of metal. I gently but with slight pressure put the piece back right when comparing my other drive. I also thought the black arm pad didn't look quite as close to the mylar (when I inserted the diskette) as my other drive. SO it's likely you hit the nail on the head (excuse the pun). I'll look again, but to repair this may be out of my league to repair. Repairing floppy heads should be done by the experienced imho unless a guided procedure is easily understood. Thanks! On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 09:35:51 PM EST, Brian K. White wrote: On 11/15/22 20:12, Spencer wrote: > I found this llink > (Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf > (archive.org) > <https://ia802901.us.archive.org/13/items/tandyportablediskdriveservicemanual263808stext/Tandy_Portable_Disk_Drive_Service_Manual_26-3808S_text.pdf>) > and it says "Service Manual" on the first page. It's not the typical service > manuals I've seen. That's the software manual and is known, and is for TPDD1 not TPDD2. One of the pages I linked already has it: tandy.wiki/TPDD And there you will also find an actual normal service manual, but again for TPDD1 not TPDD2. When I said no one has turned up a service manual, I meant for TPDD2 because you were talking about a TPDD2. I also didn't realize you already had a whole other working TPDD2 to compare against. If I had known you already had a whole other TPDD2 and already made it work, I could have skipped a lot of that because you've already successfully done it, which proves your 200 is ok, your disk is ok, you have the right kind of disk, your cable is ok, and you know how to perform the bootstrap. If you have TS-DOS in rom, then really that's the best, and in that case, you actually don't want to try to install Floppy because they conflict. Just use one or the other. I mean there are ways but it's not worth getting into that. The simple answer is if you have TS-DOS, especially in ROM or via REX#, then just use that and don't even bother with the bootstrap procedure or Floppy. I brought up pdd.sh just for interrogating the drive at a lower level so you can debug what's wrong. It can show at least if the drive firmware is running and communicating and it's just a physical problem for instance. "drive not ready" from TS-DOS doesn't tell you really anything. But it's barely documented so it's also kind of arcane to try to use unless you're me I guess. But for instance maybe if you try a format, and it spins the drive and steps the head, but always fails verify, or if trying to read a raw sector always yields all 00's or drive not ready, maybe that means there's a problem with the head or the cable to the head. If the head never steps, that's a separate cable if I remember correctly. TPDD2 is a lot easier than TPDD1, but even on TPDD2 a couple of the cables can be a tricky. So there is some chance still for a pretty easy fix by checking just major functions like that to see if some parts work and only some parts don't work, before having to think about maybe something more complicated wrong with the electronics. Could be something really mechanically simple too like the disk media isn't being pressed against the head if there's anything wrong with that black arm or the little microfiber pad or the metal part that raises and lowers the arm. As for the crazy rocket science, that is just what's going on behind the scenes. The procedure is fast and easy and works, if you do it exactly as specified in the manual, but I have seen people fail to do that, but think they were doing what it said, and think it didn't work. Because although the directions work, they don't say why they work. So I was just showing what is actually happening. -- bkw > > Yes I ran the IPL from Bank1 which was a file I created by following the > TPDD2 Operations Manual; within the IPL file it was simply => RUN > "COM:98N1ENN." I ran it with the drive off then I turned it on - nothing > happens. With my drive that works this command works fine, but with this > one with problems it doesn't work. Agree
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
full path to the file where I happen to have my clone of the repo) PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> rd ~/src/pdd.sh/disk_images/TPDD2_26-3814_Utility_Disk.pdd2 Restoring Disk from File: "/home/bkw/src/pdd.sh/disk_images/TPDD2_26-3814_Utility_Disk.pdd2" Formatting Disk, TPDD2 mode : Are you sure? (y/N) y [] 100% Loading "/home/bkw/src/pdd.sh/disk_images/TPDD2_26-3814_Utility_Disk.pdd2" Writing Disk [] 100% PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> ls - Directory Listing [0] - AFLOPY2.SYS | F | 11475 BACKUP.BA | F | 1940 FREMEM.BA | F | 372 - 186880 bytes free PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> (The util disk is created, but the drive firmware will ignore it at power-on unless it's write-protected, so open the write-protect door...) PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> ls - Directory Listing [0] - AFLOPY2.SYS | F | 11475 BACKUP.BA | F | 1940 FREMEM.BA | F | 372 - 186880 bytes free [WP] PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> (the [WP] in the corner shows that the disk is write-protected) PDD(pdd2[0]:6.2,F)> exit bkw@fw:~$ It's very easy for the client and the drive to get out of sync. The protocol has almost no provision for detecting and handling unexpected events gracefully. If anything irregular happens on either side, with the drive or the pc, the two will be immediately out of step and no recovering. Just power-cycle the drive and exit & restart the script any time anything at all out of order happens like if you open the drive door in the middle of a format or ctrl-c the script in the middle of a file copy etc. When the drive realizes that "something ain't right", it blinks the low-battery light and stops responding or doing anything. If at any time you see the low-battery light blinking, just power-cycle the drive and start over whatever you were trying to do. -- bkw On 11/14/22 18:09, Spencer wrote: > Found nothing of value when I looked again. I found that on some earlier > models (so it appears) it had a physical dip block, but on later models > it had four jumpers on SW1 but were soldered (or etched in the board) at > the factory and the bottom part of the four switches showed the contacts > as open. It looks like they should be off, but please set me straight if > my assumption is wrong. In any event still the "drive not ready" error > still there ;-(. I'll see if I can find a service manual unless any of > you have one you wouldn't mind sending me. > > Thanks for your help! > > On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 04:57:18 PM EST, Spencer > wrote: > > > Ok I popped the hood and YES there is a dip block of four switches and > all are off, and yes it's covered by the shield so opening that little > door shows just the shiled. If anyone knows how they should be please > let me know. Something I did find was the power supply has a white > connector that plugs into a board with the fuse and it was some pulled > out from one side but not all the way. Actually don't know if I pulled > it out when I opened it or not. Btw the 1A fuse is good. Everything > looks good. Don't see any popped/leaking caps or broken solder joints, > but I'll try it again and share what I find. > > Thanks > > On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 03:26:44 PM EST, John R. Hogerhuis > wrote: > > > > > On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:59 AM Greg Swallow <mailto:gswal...@mchsi.com>> wrote: > > Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I > once had. Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No > DIP switches. Never had to change anything so never opened it before > now. > > > And my recollection is that means short of somehow populating the DIP > (which may or may not work) you're locked at 19200bps on the TPDD-2. The > TPDD-1 is actually a rebadged Brother FB-100. The FB-100 has the dip > switches, but defaults to 9600bps which the Brother Knitting machine > devices are locked to. So although TPDD-1's can be used with Brother > Knitting Machines, the TPDD-2 cannot. > > -- John. -- bkw
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Sorry folks for all the chatter on this. This is my last email on this. If I find a fix I'll share. I haven't been using the T200s all that long, but learned alot. I also learned that the earlier models did in fact have jumpers and when you opened the little door you saw them. Later models you only see the shield when opening the door, and I found the service manual; it told me I was wrong about the default settings of the switches; I thought they were off, but the default is on, so I changed the switches to ON (apparently a previous owner changed them all to OFF), and it still didn't help. So I'll keep reading the service manual for hopefully more insight, but I may determine it's some hardware issue with the drive that I may need parts to repair. Who knows what has been done to this drive over the 28 + years. Thanks again for your help.Spencer On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 06:09:49 PM EST, Spencer wrote: Found nothing of value when I looked again. I found that on some earlier models (so it appears) it had a physical dip block, but on later models it had four jumpers on SW1 but were soldered (or etched in the board) at the factory and the bottom part of the four switches showed the contacts as open. It looks like they should be off, but please set me straight if my assumption is wrong. In any event still the "drive not ready" error still there ;-(. I'll see if I can find a service manual unless any of you have one you wouldn't mind sending me. Thanks for your help! On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 04:57:18 PM EST, Spencer wrote: Ok I popped the hood and YES there is a dip block of four switches and all are off, and yes it's covered by the shield so opening that little door shows just the shiled. If anyone knows how they should be please let me know. Something I did find was the power supply has a white connector that plugs into a board with the fuse and it was some pulled out from one side but not all the way. Actually don't know if I pulled it out when I opened it or not. Btw the 1A fuse is good. Everything looks good. Don't see any popped/leaking caps or broken solder joints, but I'll try it again and share what I find. Thanks On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 03:26:44 PM EST, John R. Hogerhuis wrote: On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:59 AM Greg Swallow wrote: Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I once had. Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No DIP switches. Never had to change anything so never opened it before now. And my recollection is that means short of somehow populating the DIP (which may or may not work) you're locked at 19200bps on the TPDD-2. The TPDD-1 is actually a rebadged Brother FB-100. The FB-100 has the dip switches, but defaults to 9600bps which the Brother Knitting machine devices are locked to. So although TPDD-1's can be used with Brother Knitting Machines, the TPDD-2 cannot. -- John.
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Found nothing of value when I looked again. I found that on some earlier models (so it appears) it had a physical dip block, but on later models it had four jumpers on SW1 but were soldered (or etched in the board) at the factory and the bottom part of the four switches showed the contacts as open. It looks like they should be off, but please set me straight if my assumption is wrong. In any event still the "drive not ready" error still there ;-(. I'll see if I can find a service manual unless any of you have one you wouldn't mind sending me. Thanks for your help! On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 04:57:18 PM EST, Spencer wrote: Ok I popped the hood and YES there is a dip block of four switches and all are off, and yes it's covered by the shield so opening that little door shows just the shiled. If anyone knows how they should be please let me know. Something I did find was the power supply has a white connector that plugs into a board with the fuse and it was some pulled out from one side but not all the way. Actually don't know if I pulled it out when I opened it or not. Btw the 1A fuse is good. Everything looks good. Don't see any popped/leaking caps or broken solder joints, but I'll try it again and share what I find. Thanks On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 03:26:44 PM EST, John R. Hogerhuis wrote: On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:59 AM Greg Swallow wrote: Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I once had. Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No DIP switches. Never had to change anything so never opened it before now. And my recollection is that means short of somehow populating the DIP (which may or may not work) you're locked at 19200bps on the TPDD-2. The TPDD-1 is actually a rebadged Brother FB-100. The FB-100 has the dip switches, but defaults to 9600bps which the Brother Knitting machine devices are locked to. So although TPDD-1's can be used with Brother Knitting Machines, the TPDD-2 cannot. -- John.
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Ok I popped the hood and YES there is a dip block of four switches and all are off, and yes it's covered by the shield so opening that little door shows just the shiled. If anyone knows how they should be please let me know. Something I did find was the power supply has a white connector that plugs into a board with the fuse and it was some pulled out from one side but not all the way. Actually don't know if I pulled it out when I opened it or not. Btw the 1A fuse is good. Everything looks good. Don't see any popped/leaking caps or broken solder joints, but I'll try it again and share what I find. Thanks On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 03:26:44 PM EST, John R. Hogerhuis wrote: On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:59 AM Greg Swallow wrote: Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I once had. Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No DIP switches. Never had to change anything so never opened it before now. And my recollection is that means short of somehow populating the DIP (which may or may not work) you're locked at 19200bps on the TPDD-2. The TPDD-1 is actually a rebadged Brother FB-100. The FB-100 has the dip switches, but defaults to 9600bps which the Brother Knitting machine devices are locked to. So although TPDD-1's can be used with Brother Knitting Machines, the TPDD-2 cannot. -- John.
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Hmm that's funny. I always wondered why is there a cover there with nothing! ;-) Now I know. On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 02:59:19 PM EST, Greg Swallow wrote: Oh my. Checked for cover and assumed DIP under it as the TPDD1 I once had. Opened the TPPD2 lid to expose bright shiney shield. No DIP switches. Never had to change anything so never opened it before now. God Bless,GregS <>< Sent from my iPad On Nov 14, 2022, at 12:36 PM, John R. Hogerhuis wrote: On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:17 AM Greg Swallow wrote: Yes indeed. TPDD2 does have a little cover for the DIP switch. Just flip it over, it's just the other side from the battery compartment. God Bless, GregS <>< That's my recollection too, that there's a cover. But is there actually a DIP switch under there? Can't recall, and the box of TPDD's is on a high shelf :-) -- John.
Re: [M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
At first glance I didn't see any, but could be. I usually fix the obvious first then go back in if necessary - like doctors. Ha. I've got the manual but not a service guide. Thanks. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:42 AM, Charlie Hoey wrote: Not sure if the TPDD2 model has dip switches, but perhaps they're in the wrong setting? On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 8:34 AM Josh Malone wrote: Are you using the correct bootstrap? (Pdd 1 vs pdd 2) I made a video a few years ago showing various failure modes if that helps. https://youtu.be/p4q6pqPSaCU On Mon, Nov 14, 2022, 07:27 Stephen Adolph wrote: hi, just a few questions- Do you hear any activity at all, like the disk spinning?Any LED activity at all? When you toggle power on/off, does the LED flicker once?Are you using battery or external power? Would be good to confirm the internal power supply is getting power and working correctly. steve On Sun, Nov 13, 2022 at 11:13 PM Spencer wrote: Hello. Received a drive from ebay yesterday and it needed some fixing, wouldn't take in a floppy (fixed) but kept getting a "Drive not Ready" after I tested it again. So I popped the hood again and the belt was melted. I cleaned the belt wheels and put in a new belt; hoped this fixed it but nope. I ran the IPL from T200 memory and ran the floppy command, but keep getting the same error. I'll check the data ribbon again tomorrow to make sure I plugged it in fully, but other than that does anyone have any ideas of anything else I can check to fix this error? Thanks,Spencer.
[M100] Tandy Portable Disk Drive 2
Hello. Received a drive from ebay yesterday and it needed some fixing, wouldn't take in a floppy (fixed) but kept getting a "Drive not Ready" after I tested it again. So I popped the hood again and the belt was melted. I cleaned the belt wheels and put in a new belt; hoped this fixed it but nope. I ran the IPL from T200 memory and ran the floppy command, but keep getting the same error. I'll check the data ribbon again tomorrow to make sure I plugged it in fully, but other than that does anyone have any ideas of anything else I can check to fix this error? Thanks,Spencer.
Re: [M100] DVI
Hello Mike. I found it on ebay and paid $140 plus shipping/taxes. Does your have 2 5 1/4" or a mix of 5 1/4 and 3.5" drives? Your pics show the unit as really clean. Did you have to do any repairs to it? Thanks On Saturday, September 17, 2022 at 02:28:28 PM EDT, Mike Stein wrote: I did find some pictures from when I was playing with 3.5" drives: On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 11:12 AM Spencer wrote: Hello Mike. I actually found an Tandy unit, but the video flickers in and out. Is yours something you did or a Tandy unit? Would you mind sending a pic or two? Thanks!
[M100] DVI
Hello Mike. I actually found an Tandy unit, but the video flickers in and out. Is yours something you did or a Tandy unit? Would you mind sending a pic or two? Thanks!
Re: [M100] 40th Anniversary of Model T's
Oh definitely! On Sun, Aug 21, 2022 at 2:43 AM B 9 wrote: > So, I recall reading that the Kyocera Kyotronic K-85, the computer that > the Model 100 was based on, was released in "Early 1983". That means the > Model T's 40th birthday, in early 2023, is coming up soon. > > How shall we celebrate? > > —b9 >
