Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
actually, no; the law (at least in CA) wants you to be clear of an intersection (completely *past* all the lines) when the cross light turns green, not just entering it as your light turns red. they go by the front and rear ends of the vehicle, and don't care about where the wheels are. clear of the line means that there is no part of the vehicle over any part of the line, as if the line was a brick wall. cheers! e Zoltan Finks wrote: > > Isn't the critical point that you *enter* the intersection (presumably > meaning either your the front-most point of your car, or your front wheels > - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the closer side of the > intersection) before it turns red - rather than that you *clear* the > intersection (presumably meaning either the rear-most point of your car, or > the rear wheels - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the far side > of the intersection)? > > Also, is it the margin of the white line closest to the vehicle, or farthest > from the vehicle? Or the center of the white line? For example, in the NFL, > if you "break the plane" you have crossed the closest margin of the white > line if I'm not mistaken. [snip]
[MBZ] 2.5 turbo
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Mercedes-300-300D-turbo-1992-Mercedes-300-diesel_W0QQitemZ250034749977QQihZ015QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] #18 603 head
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-6-CYLINDER-DIESEL-HEAD_W0QQitemZ250034561534QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33617QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] cool manny 300D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-1980-Mercedes-Benz-300D-4-speed-manual-Euro-5-cylinder_W0QQitemZ140037327949QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] MMMMM, GREEENNNNN
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1973-Mercedes-Benz-220-Very-Fine-Condition_W0QQitemZ270035046638QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
Whoever said that doenst know how to work on their own cars, or what to look for in a cheap Mercedes. I make money on cheap cars, nothing expensive about that. Sunil Hari wrote: i recall a very wise lister saying "There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes." Think this holds here? On 10/1/06, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
David Brodbeck wrote: > > I still contend that that's not quite true. A cheap BMW is more > expensive than a cheap Mercedes. Agreed. And what about a cheap Porsche? I once avoided buying a cheap Maserati by noticing that it had water in the oil. (1984 or 1985 Biturbo, they had leakage problems at the block/sleeve interface. Seller should have had the brains to change the oil before letting me look at it)
Re: [MBZ] Supersucker
One beer is about right, 4 hours, see a doctor. --R Joe Knight wrote: Only difficulty I've experienced is figuring out how long is enough. Five minutes is more than enough, probably way more.
Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
Sunil Hari wrote: > i recall a very wise lister saying "There is nothing more expensive than a > cheap Mercedes." Think this holds here? I still contend that that's not quite true. A cheap BMW is more expensive than a cheap Mercedes.
Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
i recall a very wise lister saying "There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes." Think this holds here? On 10/1/06, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Ah, but you can bid with confidence. It says so, right in the Ad. On 10/1/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > It will probably stay cheap since the seller has bad feedback. > > Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state" '87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k) '84 300D (216k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] The Supersucker
This sounds like it would cost way more than $2. Maybe $3 or4. --R archer wrote: During the hurricane season last year Home Depot sold old fashioned five gallon steel buckets with a fixed screw capped spout and a center cap. They may still sell them. I doubt they would collapse using a vacuum cleaner. The one I bought had a leak which I had to solder, but all may not leak. If you live near woods you might find a green sapling branch or trunk you can bend enough to stick down in the bucket. Once inside you can put wire ties around it so it will retain its circumference. Or a cheap ten foot or longer plumbers "snake" like Home Depot sells could be wound inside it and secured with wire ties. Either the snake or the sapling, positioned in the middle of the plastic bucket, might keep it from collapsing. Another solution might be to buy a roll of roofing "valley" and let it unroll inside the plastic bucket. It might be a good idea to drape several wire ties around the edge of the bucket before turning the roll of valley loose. Then you can tie them tight to keep the slick, oily valley from trying to roll back up. A couple of layers of screen wire tied over the inlet hose should reduce splashing. Stick a small piece of metal tubing the same o.d. as the hoses i.d. in the end of the inlet hose, loosely wrap the screen wire over the end of the hose, and clamp it on tight over the metal tubing with a hose clamp. Good luck, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
I'll note http://www.utc.fr/~tthomass/Themes/Unites/unites/infos/huile/ Publication_Oil_Sequences.pdf#search=%22ACEA%20documentation% 20Laboratory%20tests%22 Where one can actually understand what the oils have to meet in order to achieve a certain ACEA rating On 1-Oct-06, at 8:09 AM, Mitch Haley wrote: Peter Frederick wrote: Multi-viscosity oils are rated xWy. The W is "weight", an old designation for viscosity. I thought the W was "Winter", specifying that it was measured at a colder temperature than the regular viscosity rating.
Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
Ah, but you can bid with confidence. It says so, right in the Ad. On 10/1/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: It will probably stay cheap since the seller has bad feedback. Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state" '87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k) '84 300D (216k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
Re: [MBZ] W123 Aluminum rims
I was under the impression that steel wheels on the 240D was more the norm and that the light weight aluminum and bundts (two different critters) were a "spacial" order. Anyway as soon as my sore back allows, those parts car aluminum wheels are going on my Euro 240D Regards Steve "85" Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K "79" 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild "94" Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K "64" VW Bug "65" D15, AC tractor Message: 4 Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 19:31:55 -0500 From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 Aluminum rims To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Well, my '81 came with steel rims, that I swapped for the bundts that were on the 115 300D after it was totaled. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
It will probably stay cheap since the seller has bad feedback. dave walton wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=330033469435 6 airbags, traction control, intercooler. Nice ride. No affiliation. Tempted, but must resist... -Dave Walton 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] Cheap 1999 E300 - 6 hours left.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=330033469435 6 airbags, traction control, intercooler. Nice ride. No affiliation. Tempted, but must resist... -Dave Walton 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300
Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
yea, thats true. If you are stuck behind a big truck at a light, you cant tell if its green or not until you are in the middle of the intersection. David Brodbeck wrote: Zoltan Finks wrote: I think what you're describing though, is people being so conditioned to the common practice of squeaking every last millisecond out of a yellow (and yes, red) light that if someone decides to act reasonably, they are posing a danger with their unpredictability. Pretty much. It doesn't help that a lot of lights around here are extremely slow, so people try to squeeze through knowing that otherwise they'll be sitting there for a couple of minutes waiting. The biggest change I've made in my driving style is I now hang back farther from semis in traffic. Unless you're several car lengths behind, you can't see whether the light is still green until it's too late, except at intersections that have auxiliary signals at the curb. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs
you assume correct, your car has parallel plugs Zoltan Finks wrote: Great info. I'm inclined to ask though, which type did my model come with? The series or the better type? I seem to remember that the series type (that depend on eachother to have voltage - which, by the way, seems like poor design) came on the older models, and was phased out in favor of plugs that do not rely on eachother to get voltage (as in somewhat newer models). I'm assuming that since my 240D is the last year made, it has the newer, better plug system. Brian 83 240D On 9/30/06, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hello Zoltan, 1st - the series Vs parallel question - OK - series is when the GPs are hooked one after the other, i.e. #1 gets 12V, #2 is supplied by #1 (and has a voltage loss), #3 is supplied by #2 - again with a voltage drop, and so on. The so-called Fast Glow Plugs are wired such that each GP gets power wwithout going thru another GP. You can tell the difference by the large metal solid wires going between each GP which is the old or series system. The solid metal wires have squiggly bends to allow for expansion -- at night they can be seen glowing red hot. The newer type sold by Rusty as a kit is around $110 and comes with new wiring and GP's. The difference is phenomonal. Starts will be *much* faster. There's 4 conditions concerning the GP relay and preglow light mentioned in W124 "Bible" - preglow light off - during preglow - wither #1 or 2 other plugs are defective. preglow on - after engine runs for 1 minute - defective relay - preglow on constantly - but engine starts normally - relay is sticking in the ON position - preglow light off constantly and engine is hard to start or won't start - glow relay defective or 2 or more GPs defective. Don't know anything about the archives - OK? ;-) Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 11:30 PM Subject: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to okiebenz? I have tried to access it and guess I don't know how. Do tell. I ask this because I want information on my glow plugs, and I know that this has been discussed many times before. Barring access to the archives, I'm going to post the question regarding my glow plug light that takes a few seconds to come on after turning the key to ignition position - and whether this indicates a problem with one (or more) plugs, or whether it indicates a problem with the relay, or what. And whether my model has the parallel plugs or the series plugs, and which is better. Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.10/459 - Release Date: 9/29/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
Peter Frederick wrote: > > Multi-viscosity oils are rated xWy. The W is "weight", an old > designation for viscosity. I thought the W was "Winter", specifying that it was measured at a colder temperature than the regular viscosity rating.
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
The point is that it DOESN'T change viscosity! Peter On Oct 1, 2006, at 12:55 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote: I'm not disturbed by that at all, in fact I love it. How can we be certain though that the oil will behave that way? Bear with me, I never took chemistry. But when the my engine's health is in the balance, this chemical wonder that is an oil switching viscosities based on temperature has long made me wonder. I'm not being a smartass, I'm asking. Is it 100% reliable that my oil will know when to be zero weight and know when to be forty weight, and that it will never screw up? If it is indeed foolproof, then it is only logical to run the 0W-40, as this will let the engine turn more freely at very cold temps. and may even increase fuel economy? Brian 83 240D And here I said I wasn't starting an oil thread On 10/1/06, Gary Hurst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold? do you see something disturbing about this logic? On 9/30/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I, too, had shared this concern, until I read somewhere that the higher number is the "real" viscosity, and the lower number is how the oil reacts in cold temperatures. That is, a 0W40 oil is a 40 wt. oil, that maintains a viscosity similar to a 0 wt. oil at 0 degrees C., or something like that -- it doesn't get as "thick" as a 40 wt. oil would at that temp., it's as "thick" as a 0 wt. oil would be at that temp. Please correct if I'm wrong --- On 9/30/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 0 weight oils are too thin, in my humble opinion, for any diesel. Too much pressure on the journal on the compression stroke, not enough film strength, even for a synthetic like Mobil 1 The difference between dino and synthetics is huge, the difference in cold viscosity of synthetics is fairly small. I believe the 0 weight oils are intended to give small gasoline engines a bit better milage from lower oil pump resistance, not something I'd like to try in a diesel! Just my opinion. I tend to use 5W40 or 5W50 Truck and SUV or 15W50 Mobil 1 in the summer and 5W40 in the winter, but if I need to change the oil and can only find 15W50 in the winter, I use it. Hard starts are usually not helped by lower viscosity oil unless you have fairly high viscosity dino in the crankcase -- I've seen an engine that simple would not crank at all in the winter with 50 wt in there to hide a bad bearing Peter -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
No, not al all -- it means the viscosity does not change all that much! Synthetics don't lose viscosity when hot nearly as much as dino oils do (10 wt oil at 300F pours like diesel fuel, and has about the same lubricating capacities, I believe!), while 40 or 50 wt dino oil at zero F has to be spooned out of the can, it won't flow much at all -- wont' drip off the dipstick for instance. Multi-viscosity oils (usually made by adding "extenders" to thicken them up at high temps, usually synthetic base if I remember correctly) became common in the 60's. Before that, you had to change the oil to get the correct viscosity for the temperature expected, usually 10 or 15 wt in the winter and 30 wt in the summer. Failure to get the correct weight oil would result in starting failure or ruined crankshaft bearings, depending. Peter On Oct 1, 2006, at 12:08 AM, Gary Hurst wrote: it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold? do you see something disturbing about this logic? On 9/30/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I, too, had shared this concern, until I read somewhere that the higher number is the "real" viscosity, and the lower number is how the oil reacts in cold temperatures. That is, a 0W40 oil is a 40 wt. oil, that maintains a viscosity similar to a 0 wt. oil at 0 degrees C., or something like that -- it doesn't get as "thick" as a 40 wt. oil would at that temp., it's as "thick" as a 0 wt. oil would be at that temp. Please correct if I'm wrong --- On 9/30/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 0 weight oils are too thin, in my humble opinion, for any diesel. Too much pressure on the journal on the compression stroke, not enough film strength, even for a synthetic like Mobil 1 The difference between dino and synthetics is huge, the difference in cold viscosity of synthetics is fairly small. I believe the 0 weight oils are intended to give small gasoline engines a bit better milage from lower oil pump resistance, not something I'd like to try in a diesel! Just my opinion. I tend to use 5W40 or 5W50 Truck and SUV or 15W50 Mobil 1 in the summer and 5W40 in the winter, but if I need to change the oil and can only find 15W50 in the winter, I use it. Hard starts are usually not helped by lower viscosity oil unless you have fairly high viscosity dino in the crankcase -- I've seen an engine that simple would not crank at all in the winter with 50 wt in there to hide a bad bearing Peter -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs
The archives are the same. You access them by going to the list page. There is a link at the bottom of each message. You will then see a link on the list page that says "archives". Zoltan Finks wrote: Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to okiebenz? I have tried to access it and guess I don't know how. Do tell. I ask this because I want information on my glow plugs, and I know that this has been discussed many times before. Barring access to the archives, I'm going to post the question regarding my glow plug light that takes a few seconds to come on after turning the key to ignition position - and whether this indicates a problem with one (or more) plugs, or whether it indicates a problem with the relay, or what. And whether my model has the parallel plugs or the series plugs, and which is better. Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
Multi-viscosity oils are rated xWy. The W is "weight", an old designation for viscosity. The "x" is the cold "weight", the y is the hot "weight" -- in other words, the oil has the viscosity of say, 10Wt oil at zero and 40Wt oil at 300 degrees. My concern is shear and film strength on the crankpin journal, as this is where the stresses are greatest in diesels, due mainly to the high compression pressure. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
Synthetic or not I would recommend staying with specified or very near oil weights...I use 15/50 Mobil one all year long in 616 and 617 engines in the northeast./Tom Scordato - Original Message - From: "Bill Gallagher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 1:04 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30 http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx See the source for info Bill 1981 300 TD LT Don wrote: John: I think the Mobil 1 brand 0-W-40 is on the MB approved list for diesels. Personally, I stick with the 15-W-50 stuff. I would not run it in ANY MB of any kind. none of the M1 xW-30's (0,5,10) carry ANY MB approvals due to insufficient high-temperature shear strength. The 0W-40 DOES carry 229.51 (Bluetec) approval. -j. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Cheap 190D Stick
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/car/214266915.html Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
Hmmm. Well my faith has been re-restored in 0W oil. If I can do anything to tilt the odds in my favor of having a relatively easy start on those single-digit or below mornings, I'm for it. Brian 83 240D 84 Saab 900 On 10/1/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Fmiser wrote: > If you expect to have to start your engine at temps near 0F (-20 C), > then the 0W-40 can give let you reliable start the engine at temps 10 > deg F (5 deg C) colder than 15W-40. It *may* also decrease start-up wear. Thick oil takes longer to pump to the bearings, and especially up to the camshaft. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Supersucker
Joe Knight wrote: > Only difficulty > I've experienced is figuring out how long is enough. Five minutes is > more than enough, probably way more. I always figured it was done when I heard that "straw slurping in an empty drink cup" sound coming from the crankcase. I also had a clear suction tube and could see it go from black to grayish as most of the oil in it was replaced by air.
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
Fmiser wrote: > If you expect to have to start your engine at temps near 0F (-20 C), > then the 0W-40 can give let you reliable start the engine at temps 10 > deg F (5 deg C) colder than 15W-40. It *may* also decrease start-up wear. Thick oil takes longer to pump to the bearings, and especially up to the camshaft.
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
Gary Hurst wrote: > it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold? > Not exactly. It doesn't get thinner as it gets colder, as you'd expect from that description. It has the viscosity that a straight 40 weight oil would at operating temperature, and the viscosity that a straight 0W weight oil would at cold temperatures. To give an example, 5W oil at 40 degrees C has a viscosity of 20 cSt. 50 weight oil at 100 degrees C also has a viscosity of about 20 cSt. So if you could create a theoretical oil that kept the same viscosity over that temperature range, it would be 5W50. (There's a chart here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html)
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
rumor has it that Zoltan wrote: > How can we be certain though that the oil will behave that way? You can't *smile* You have to trust the oil company. > Bear with me, I never took chemistry. But when the my engine's > health is in the balance, this chemical wonder that is an oil > switching viscosities based on temperature has long made me wonder. > I'm not being a smartass, I'm asking. Is it 100% reliable that my > oil will know when to be zero weight and know when to be forty > weight, and that it will never screw up? What is happening is that oil, like most liquids, becomes thinner as it heats up. The multi-weight oils have additives that slow down the thinning. The result is that it doesn't thin as fast as a "plain" oil, so it can start out like a zero-weight, but by the time it's hot it matches a 40-weight. > If it is indeed foolproof, then it is only logical to run the 0W-40, > as this will let the engine turn more freely at very cold temps. and > may even increase fuel economy? It is foolproof so long as the additive package holds up. That's part of the reason for changing oil is to insure that the oil is behaving. If you expect to have to start your engine at temps near 0F (-20 C), then the 0W-40 can give let you reliable start the engine at temps 10 deg F (5 deg C) colder than 15W-40. I will have very little effect on the fuel economy the oil will quickly heat to where it is no longer thin. But this is good, we only want it thin when trying to cold-start. Then we want it thick enough to properly protect the engine parts. > Brian > 83 240D > And here I said I wasn't starting an oil thread Yea, sure! *grin* -- Philip, not a chemist
Re: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs
rumor has it that Zoltan wrote: > Great info. I'm inclined to ask though, which type did my model come > with? The series or the better type? I believe that the change from series to parallel was about 1980. My '78 had series (till I converteded it), and my '81s have parallel. > I'm assuming that since my 240D is the last year made, it has the > newer, better plug system. > > Brian > 83 240D It's easy to check. If there is a large s-curve, bare wire between each of the glow plugs, it's series. If each glow plug has it's own insulated wire going to it, it's parallel. -- Philip, free from the burden of series glow plugs
Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
Zoltan Finks wrote: > I think what you're describing though, is people being so conditioned to the > common practice of squeaking every last millisecond out of a yellow (and > yes, red) light that if someone decides to act reasonably, they are posing a > danger with their unpredictability. > Pretty much. It doesn't help that a lot of lights around here are extremely slow, so people try to squeeze through knowing that otherwise they'll be sitting there for a couple of minutes waiting. The biggest change I've made in my driving style is I now hang back farther from semis in traffic. Unless you're several car lengths behind, you can't see whether the light is still green until it's too late, except at intersections that have auxiliary signals at the curb.
Re: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs
Great info. I'm inclined to ask though, which type did my model come with? The series or the better type? I seem to remember that the series type (that depend on eachother to have voltage - which, by the way, seems like poor design) came on the older models, and was phased out in favor of plugs that do not rely on eachother to get voltage (as in somewhat newer models). I'm assuming that since my 240D is the last year made, it has the newer, better plug system. Brian 83 240D On 9/30/06, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hello Zoltan, 1st - the series Vs parallel question - OK - series is when the GPs are hooked one after the other, i.e. #1 gets 12V, #2 is supplied by #1 (and has a voltage loss), #3 is supplied by #2 - again with a voltage drop, and so on. The so-called Fast Glow Plugs are wired such that each GP gets power wwithout going thru another GP. You can tell the difference by the large metal solid wires going between each GP which is the old or series system. The solid metal wires have squiggly bends to allow for expansion -- at night they can be seen glowing red hot. The newer type sold by Rusty as a kit is around $110 and comes with new wiring and GP's. The difference is phenomonal. Starts will be *much* faster. There's 4 conditions concerning the GP relay and preglow light mentioned in W124 "Bible" - preglow light off - during preglow - wither #1 or 2 other plugs are defective. preglow on - after engine runs for 1 minute - defective relay - preglow on constantly - but engine starts normally - relay is sticking in the ON position - preglow light off constantly and engine is hard to start or won't start - glow relay defective or 2 or more GPs defective. Don't know anything about the archives - OK? ;-) Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 11:30 PM Subject: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs > Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to > okiebenz? > I have tried to access it and guess I don't know how. Do tell. > > I ask this because I want information on my glow plugs, and I know that > this > has been discussed many times before. > > Barring access to the archives, I'm going to post the question regarding > my > glow plug light that takes a few seconds to come on after turning the key > to > ignition position - and whether this indicates a problem with one (or > more) > plugs, or whether it indicates a problem with the relay, or what. And > whether my model has the parallel plugs or the series plugs, and which is > better. > > Brian > 83 240D > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.10/459 - Release Date: 9/29/2006 > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Supersucker
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:33:32 -0700 "Joe Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You absolutely do not need the godzilla of vacuum cleaners for this > little chore. I suppose that rules out King Kong, too. :-) Craig
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
I'm not disturbed by that at all, in fact I love it. How can we be certain though that the oil will behave that way? Bear with me, I never took chemistry. But when the my engine's health is in the balance, this chemical wonder that is an oil switching viscosities based on temperature has long made me wonder. I'm not being a smartass, I'm asking. Is it 100% reliable that my oil will know when to be zero weight and know when to be forty weight, and that it will never screw up? If it is indeed foolproof, then it is only logical to run the 0W-40, as this will let the engine turn more freely at very cold temps. and may even increase fuel economy? Brian 83 240D And here I said I wasn't starting an oil thread On 10/1/06, Gary Hurst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold? do you see something disturbing about this logic? On 9/30/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I, too, had shared this concern, until I read somewhere that the > higher number is the "real" viscosity, and the lower number is how the > oil reacts in cold temperatures. That is, a 0W40 oil is a 40 wt. oil, > that maintains a viscosity similar to a 0 wt. oil at 0 degrees C., or > something like that -- it doesn't get as "thick" as a 40 wt. oil would > at that temp., it's as "thick" as a 0 wt. oil would be at that temp. > > Please correct if I'm wrong --- > > On 9/30/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > 0 weight oils are too thin, in my humble opinion, for any diesel. Too > > much pressure on the journal on the compression stroke, not enough film > > strength, even for a synthetic like Mobil 1 > > > > The difference between dino and synthetics is huge, the difference in > > cold viscosity of synthetics is fairly small. > > > > I believe the 0 weight oils are intended to give small gasoline engines > > a bit better milage from lower oil pump resistance, not something I'd > > like to try in a diesel! > > > > Just my opinion. I tend to use 5W40 or 5W50 Truck and SUV or 15W50 > > Mobil 1 in the summer and 5W40 in the winter, but if I need to change > > the oil and can only find 15W50 in the winter, I use it. > > > > Hard starts are usually not helped by lower viscosity oil unless you > > have fairly high viscosity dino in the crankcase -- I've seen an engine > > that simple would not crank at all in the winter with 50 wt in there > > to hide a bad bearing > > > > Peter > > > > -- > OK Don, KD5NRO > Norman, OK > "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've > exhausted all the alternatives." > Sir Winston Churchill > '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Supersucker
David's right on the money. I got lucky in that my 'shop' vac is a little old cannister with a hose that has a controllable leak built into it's handle. Using the usual plastic bucket I just set the vacuum leakage so the the bucket just barely starts to buckle and keep an eye on it as the hot oil tends to have an effect. Only difficulty I've experienced is figuring out how long is enough. Five minutes is more than enough, probably way more. You absolutely do not need the godzilla of vacuum cleaners for this little chore. -joe
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
it's a 40 weight oil when cold that become a zero weight oil when cold? do you see something disturbing about this logic? On 9/30/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I, too, had shared this concern, until I read somewhere that the higher number is the "real" viscosity, and the lower number is how the oil reacts in cold temperatures. That is, a 0W40 oil is a 40 wt. oil, that maintains a viscosity similar to a 0 wt. oil at 0 degrees C., or something like that -- it doesn't get as "thick" as a 40 wt. oil would at that temp., it's as "thick" as a 0 wt. oil would be at that temp. Please correct if I'm wrong --- On 9/30/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > 0 weight oils are too thin, in my humble opinion, for any diesel. Too > much pressure on the journal on the compression stroke, not enough film > strength, even for a synthetic like Mobil 1 > > The difference between dino and synthetics is huge, the difference in > cold viscosity of synthetics is fairly small. > > I believe the 0 weight oils are intended to give small gasoline engines > a bit better milage from lower oil pump resistance, not something I'd > like to try in a diesel! > > Just my opinion. I tend to use 5W40 or 5W50 Truck and SUV or 15W50 > Mobil 1 in the summer and 5W40 in the winter, but if I need to change > the oil and can only find 15W50 in the winter, I use it. > > Hard starts are usually not helped by lower viscosity oil unless you > have fairly high viscosity dino in the crankcase -- I've seen an engine > that simple would not crank at all in the winter with 50 wt in there > to hide a bad bearing > > Peter > -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx See the source for info Bill 1981 300 TD LT Don wrote: John: I think the Mobil 1 brand 0-W-40 is on the MB approved list for diesels. Personally, I stick with the 15-W-50 stuff. I would not run it in ANY MB of any kind. none of the M1 xW-30's (0,5,10) carry ANY MB approvals due to insufficient high-temperature shear strength. The 0W-40 DOES carry 229.51 (Bluetec) approval. -j. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs
Hello Zoltan, 1st - the series Vs parallel question - OK - series is when the GPs are hooked one after the other, i.e. #1 gets 12V, #2 is supplied by #1 (and has a voltage loss), #3 is supplied by #2 - again with a voltage drop, and so on. The so-called Fast Glow Plugs are wired such that each GP gets power wwithout going thru another GP. You can tell the difference by the large metal solid wires going between each GP which is the old or series system. The solid metal wires have squiggly bends to allow for expansion -- at night they can be seen glowing red hot. The newer type sold by Rusty as a kit is around $110 and comes with new wiring and GP's. The difference is phenomonal. Starts will be *much* faster. There's 4 conditions concerning the GP relay and preglow light mentioned in W124 "Bible" - preglow light off - during preglow - wither #1 or 2 other plugs are defective. preglow on - after engine runs for 1 minute - defective relay - preglow on constantly - but engine starts normally - relay is sticking in the ON position - preglow light off constantly and engine is hard to start or won't start - glow relay defective or 2 or more GPs defective. Don't know anything about the archives - OK? ;-) Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 11:30 PM Subject: [MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to okiebenz? I have tried to access it and guess I don't know how. Do tell. I ask this because I want information on my glow plugs, and I know that this has been discussed many times before. Barring access to the archives, I'm going to post the question regarding my glow plug light that takes a few seconds to come on after turning the key to ignition position - and whether this indicates a problem with one (or more) plugs, or whether it indicates a problem with the relay, or what. And whether my model has the parallel plugs or the series plugs, and which is better. Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.10/459 - Release Date: 9/29/2006
Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
Very good points. Sad though, that the average driver is brain-dead enough as to plow into the driver in front of them if they choose to obey a traffic signal. Belive me, I know - I was rear-ended by a Caddiliac as I stopped for a red light on my motorcycle. I think what you're describing though, is people being so conditioned to the common practice of squeaking every last millisecond out of a yellow (and yes, red) light that if someone decides to act reasonably, they are posing a danger with their unpredictability. Brian On 9/30/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Zoltan Finks wrote: > Isn't the critical point that you *enter* the intersection (presumably > meaning either your the front-most point of your car, or your front wheels > - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the closer side of the > intersection) before it turns red - rather than that you *clear* the > intersection (presumably meaning either the rear-most point of your car, or > the rear wheels - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the far side > of the intersection)? > I *think* I've heard that -- that the camera only activates if you enter the intersection after the light turns red. > Personally, I'm *for* red light cameras. Running lights has become an > everyday occurrence everywhere, and people are getting t-boned, or run down > if you're a pedestrian, because of it. > The problem is there's scant evidence that they actually reduce accidents. In some installations, accidents actually *increase*. (Although generally the *types* of accidents shift to include fewer T-bones and more rear-end collisions.) That feeds my suspicion that this is mainly about raising revenue without having to raise taxes, not about safety. In fact, the way the contract usually works is some private company installs and runs the cameras, in exchange for giving a percentage of the profits to the city. It also represents a slippery slope. In Britain they have speed cameras, some of which apparently have a tolerance as low as 3 mph over the limit. We're clearly headed that direction. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
Zoltan Finks wrote: > Isn't the critical point that you *enter* the intersection (presumably > meaning either your the front-most point of your car, or your front wheels > - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the closer side of the > intersection) before it turns red - rather than that you *clear* the > intersection (presumably meaning either the rear-most point of your car, or > the rear wheels - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the far side > of the intersection)? > I *think* I've heard that -- that the camera only activates if you enter the intersection after the light turns red. > Personally, I'm *for* red light cameras. Running lights has become an > everyday occurrence everywhere, and people are getting t-boned, or run down > if you're a pedestrian, because of it. > The problem is there's scant evidence that they actually reduce accidents. In some installations, accidents actually *increase*. (Although generally the *types* of accidents shift to include fewer T-bones and more rear-end collisions.) That feeds my suspicion that this is mainly about raising revenue without having to raise taxes, not about safety. In fact, the way the contract usually works is some private company installs and runs the cameras, in exchange for giving a percentage of the profits to the city. It also represents a slippery slope. In Britain they have speed cameras, some of which apparently have a tolerance as low as 3 mph over the limit. We're clearly headed that direction.
Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
Isn't the critical point that you *enter* the intersection (presumably meaning either your the front-most point of your car, or your front wheels - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the closer side of the intersection) before it turns red - rather than that you *clear* the intersection (presumably meaning either the rear-most point of your car, or the rear wheels - I'm not sure which - cross the white line on the far side of the intersection)? Also, is it the margin of the white line closest to the vehicle, or farthest from the vehicle? Or the center of the white line? For example, in the NFL, if you "break the plane" you have crossed the closest margin of the white line if I'm not mistaken. Personally, I'm *for* red light cameras. Running lights has become an everyday occurrence everywhere, and people are getting t-boned, or run down if you're a pedestrian, because of it. And let's not be naive enough to think that we actually have and sort of privacy in the first place that the cameras are supposedly violating. Any cop can look through our windows and determine that we are doing something wrong at any time. For that matter, they can pull you over for the most illegitimate reasons. Consider the big time polygamist guy that was busted recently. He was pulled over because he had temporary tags (which I don't think is illegal). The cop just got the feeling that he didn't belong around there, with his red escalade, and decided to pull him over. Brian Not a polygamist On 9/30/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Mitch Haley wrote: > David Brodbeck wrote: > >> That'd net him a fine of $1212, assuming you didn't get caught stealing >> his plates. ;) No license points, though. Since they can't prove who >> was driving there's no other penalty -- just a $101 fine. >> > > I see, just a tax on the owner with no proof of personal culpability, > like a parking ticket. I was thinking it was a traffic offense. > I got a look at one of the cams in action, last night, and I think I might have been wrong about it only catching the rear plate. I think whether it catches your front plate or your rear plate depends on which way you're going -- I think they're only using one camera per intersection. Makes sense. I also think it might have caught me. Light turned red before I cleared the intersection, and I saw a flash. Damn. Of course, if I'm lucky it was for a car going the other way... ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Archives and question on glow plugs
Has the method of viewing the archives changed since the change to okiebenz? I have tried to access it and guess I don't know how. Do tell. I ask this because I want information on my glow plugs, and I know that this has been discussed many times before. Barring access to the archives, I'm going to post the question regarding my glow plug light that takes a few seconds to come on after turning the key to ignition position - and whether this indicates a problem with one (or more) plugs, or whether it indicates a problem with the relay, or what. And whether my model has the parallel plugs or the series plugs, and which is better. Brian 83 240D
Re: [MBZ] Supersucker
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 19:57:09 -0400 "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've been thinking about a related comment since before this thread - > > I'm thinking a screw on top with a inlet and outlet - there's one that > came with my MityMite Vac kit - internally, one tube goes into the > bottom of the container and is below the level of the liquid - this > way, the vacuum pulls the liquid into the container but doesn;t put any > vacuum on the container. Sorry, it doesn't work that way, Larry. If you want to pull it into a container, the inside of the container has to be below atmospheric pressure. Craig
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 19:49:23 -0700 David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Peter Frederick wrote: > > And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher > > compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the > > crankpin journal bearing. > > But that would have more to do with the "40" part than the "0W" part, > right? I thought the "W" part of the designation had more to do with > the low temperature pour point than the lubricating qualities when the > engine is hot. It also relates to the lubricating properties when the oil is cold. Craig
Re: [MBZ] License plate placement
Mitch Haley wrote: > David Brodbeck wrote: > >> That'd net him a fine of $1212, assuming you didn't get caught stealing >> his plates. ;) No license points, though. Since they can't prove who >> was driving there's no other penalty -- just a $101 fine. >> > > I see, just a tax on the owner with no proof of personal culpability, > like a parking ticket. I was thinking it was a traffic offense. > I got a look at one of the cams in action, last night, and I think I might have been wrong about it only catching the rear plate. I think whether it catches your front plate or your rear plate depends on which way you're going -- I think they're only using one camera per intersection. Makes sense. I also think it might have caught me. Light turned red before I cleared the intersection, and I saw a flash. Damn. Of course, if I'm lucky it was for a car going the other way...
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
John: I think the Mobil 1 brand 0-W-40 is on the MB approved list for diesels. Personally, I stick with the 15-W-50 stuff. I would not run it in ANY MB of any kind. none of the M1 xW-30's (0,5,10) carry ANY MB approvals due to insufficient high-temperature shear strength. The 0W-40 DOES carry 229.51 (Bluetec) approval. -j. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
And while we are at it, how many angels can dance on the head of a pin? http://www.answerbag.com/q_view.php/35011 On 9/30/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Peter Frederick wrote: > And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher > compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the > crankpin journal bearing. But that would have more to do with the "40" part than the "0W" part, right? I thought the "W" part of the designation had more to do with the low temperature pour point than the lubricating qualities when the engine is hot. -- Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
Re: [MBZ] The Supersucker
Lee Einer wrote: > So, any advice on how to keep the buckets from collapsing? I think you're pulling a "harder" vacuum than is really necessary. You might create a controllable leak somehow to bleed in some air. A 6 hp shop vac is pretty powerful. It doesn't take nearly as much suction as you'd imagine. The commercial, hand-pumped Topsider I have uses a steel 5-gallon gasoline can, the domed kind. The dome makes it very strong as long as you don't lean on it while vacuum is applied (which risks causing the dome to "snap through.")
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
Peter Frederick wrote: > And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher > compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the > crankpin journal bearing. But that would have more to do with the "40" part than the "0W" part, right? I thought the "W" part of the designation had more to do with the low temperature pour point than the lubricating qualities when the engine is hot.
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 0W-30
> > > I've heard from the list that Mobil 1 0W-30 is one of the good weights > > to > > > run in our diesels. Now how about running it in my gasser Saab? I would not run it in ANY MB of any kind. none of the M1 xW-30's (0,5,10) carry ANY MB approvals due to insufficient high-temperature shear strength. The 0W-40 DOES carry 229.51 (Bluetec) approval. -j.
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
IIRC, for a long time the 0w40 was the only M1 that carried any MB 22x.x approval. Checking out http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html , I see that the SuperSyn European Car 0W40 carries 229.3 and 229.5, and the ESP formula M 5W40 carries the 229.51 (only one of about 8 oils that do) "CDI/Bluetec" approval. BTW AMSoil made the cut There is a note in there that some M1 oils (the W30's) did not make the cut since they did not meet the spec of > 3.5cP for high temp shear strength... -j.
[MBZ] '92 300D Idiot Lights not Operable
When I start the car the idiot lights no longer come on. The only lights that come on now are the glow plug light and the SRS light. Any ideas where I should start looking? Bob Morrison 87 300D-198000 92 300D-22 & growing old fast.
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
And a compression ratio of what, 12:1? My point is the much higher compression ratio (hence higher loading) and film strength in the crankpin journal bearing. My engines were designed long before 0 wt oils were available, I'll stick with higher cold viscosity oil, thank you very much. Engine longevity is secondary to hp output on those cars anyway Peter
Re: [MBZ] 0W40 M1 not adequate?
PF opines: <<0 weight oils are too thin, in my humble opinion, for any diesel. Too much pressure on the journal on the compression stroke, not enough film strength, even for a synthetic like Mobil 1 I believe the 0 weight oils are intended to give small gasoline engines a bit better milage from lower oil pump resistance, not something I'd like to try in a diesel!For small gasoline engines..better mileage...>> Lessee now: Porsche Carrera GT $440,000 5.7 liter V-10 604hp @8000 rpm 205mph 0-62 mph 3.9 sec FACTORY FILL: MOBIL1 0W40 Perhaps you should send a note to Porsche AG, just to let them know? RLE
Re: [MBZ] W123 Aluminum rims
Well, my '81 came with steel rims, that I swapped for the bundts that were on the 115 300D after it was totaled. On 9/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: They are much lighter and easier to carry around. They usually came on all the 240D's after about 1980 or so. Bascially anything that didnt have bundts. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] The Supersucker
On Sep 30, 2006, at 8:16 AM, Lee Einer wrote: I made a supersucker using my 6 horsepower shop vac. It supersucked. Not in a nice way. The plastic buckets tended to buckle and collapse, which also caused the lid to bend, warp and split. The contorted bucket tended to splash the waste oil back up towards the vacuum nozzle, resulting in a bunch of the oil being sucked into the shop vac. I went through three buckets in the process of changing my oil, as well as making a complete mess. So, any advice on how to keep the buckets from collapsing? I am thinking about putting one bucket inside the other for added structural strength. A source for more durable buckets would also be welcomed. Lee - During the hurricane season last year Home Depot sold old fashioned five gallon steel buckets with a fixed screw capped spout and a center cap. They may still sell them. I doubt they would collapse using a vacuum cleaner. The one I bought had a leak which I had to solder, but all may not leak. If you live near woods you might find a green sapling branch or trunk you can bend enough to stick down in the bucket. Once inside you can put wire ties around it so it will retain its circumference. Or a cheap ten foot or longer plumbers "snake" like Home Depot sells could be wound inside it and secured with wire ties. Either the snake or the sapling, positioned in the middle of the plastic bucket, might keep it from collapsing. Another solution might be to buy a roll of roofing "valley" and let it unroll inside the plastic bucket. It might be a good idea to drape several wire ties around the edge of the bucket before turning the roll of valley loose. Then you can tie them tight to keep the slick, oily valley from trying to roll back up. A couple of layers of screen wire tied over the inlet hose should reduce splashing. Stick a small piece of metal tubing the same o.d. as the hoses i.d. in the end of the inlet hose, loosely wrap the screen wire over the end of the hose, and clamp it on tight over the metal tubing with a hose clamp. Good luck, Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D
