Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and or Hilarious driving stories

2007-12-22 Thread archer

 archer writes:
 It's only logical that with nearly all cars being automatic
 nowadays, the brake should be operated by the left foot and the
 accellerator by the right foot. Trying to both stop and go with one
 foot is what confuses people who aren't mechanically inclined.
--- 
 Using one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you engage the
 brake. If you put the brake where the clutch is supposed to be, then
 people who are accustomed to a manual transmission would be punching
 the brake.

 If you can't stop and go with one foot you have no business behind the
 wheel of a car.
Allan
---
What about all the ladies (and some men) with poor mechanical aptitude who 
would have less accidents if all they had to remember was that the right 
foot made the car go and the left foot made the car stop?
Don't forget, if we forbid our wives, daughters, and sweethearts to drive, 
we will be the ones chauffuering them around.
As far as it being confusing when switching from automatic to manual cars, 
it already is for many people.
It would also give the left leg a little exercise.  The way it is now in an 
automatic, the left leg just sits there and whithers away.  Haven't you ever 
noticed how people who drive automatics a lot have left legs that are 
skinnier than their right legs?  (-:]
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Zoltan Finks
Yeah, I hate those idiotic behaviors you describe. But they're caused by
inept, careless driving by inept, careless drivers - not by
left-foot-braking.
Brian

On Dec 21, 2007 9:18 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 In a message dated 12/21/2007 8:21:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Using  one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you engage  the
 brake.  If you put the brake where the clutch is supposed to be,  then
 people who are accustomed to a manual transmission would be  punching
 the brake.

 If you can't stop and go with one foot you have  no business behind the
 wheel of a car.



 Thank you strieb!I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a
 passion!

 Consider a dozen cars moving down the freeway at about the same  speed.
  The
 car showing it's brake lights, for no good  reason, is probably driven by
 a
 left foot braker.   They  sneeze, the brakes come on, the phone rings, the
 brakes come on, they change  lanes, the brakes come on, they tailgate
 closer than
 anyone else, the brakes  come on!

 Brake lights are necessary to warn of an impending speed change.   Resting
 your left foot on the brake pedal invariably results in an excess  display
 of
 brake lights, mesmerizing the other drivers, maybe, lulling them into
 complacency, I hope not, but certainly annoying.

 Riding the brake pedal with your left foot MAY improve your reaction
  time,
 but I bet  left foot braking is NOT safer in the overall street  driving
 scheme
 of things!  The only group interested in promoting left  foot braking is
 the
 brake repair shops, who will see a left foot braker's  vehicle as core
 business!

 End Rant!

 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles
 98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Got my W108 back today!

2007-12-22 Thread Jim Cathey
 My theory is that, like every other nitrogen-charged springing device, 
 it is reliable and related systems do not leak UNTIL the nitrogen 
 charge dissipates,

I do not believe that there is a nitrogen charge in there at all,
sorry.  That crap came later.  I can't believe that a car with
grease fittings had a non-serviceable active suspension component.

 I'd bet the hydropneumatic compensator is a bulletproof design as long 
 as there's a gas charge...

I think that the seals wear out, and then it stops working right.

But if I actually had one I'd have more of an expert opinion.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Robert Rentfro
Chuck, from an island, told Mr. Jim:


Be back in Phoenix mid January..

Will give you a call then..

Let me know too. It would be nice to see your faces.

Bob R.



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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Peter T . Arnold
This is getting silly.
Nobody ever suggested that you Rest your left foot on the brake
pedal.  You pulled that out of the air.
Drive with 2 feet, your choice.
Choose to follow me and I have better reaction times because I often
brake with my left foot, the choice of lawyers will be mine.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!



  On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 00:18:09 EST, you wrote:

 
In a message dated 12/21/2007 8:21:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Using  one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you engage  the
brake.  If you put the brake where the clutch is supposed to be,  then
people who are accustomed to a manual transmission would be  punching
the brake.

If you can't stop and go with one foot you have  no business behind the
wheel of a car.



Thank you strieb!I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a passion!  
 
Consider a dozen cars moving down the freeway at about the same  speed.  The 
car showing it's brake lights, for no good  reason, is probably driven by a 
left foot braker.   They  sneeze, the brakes come on, the phone rings, the 
brakes come on, they change  lanes, the brakes come on, they tailgate closer 
than 
anyone else, the brakes  come on!
 
Brake lights are necessary to warn of an impending speed change.   Resting 
your left foot on the brake pedal invariably results in an excess  display of 
brake lights, mesmerizing the other drivers, maybe, lulling them into  
complacency, I hope not, but certainly annoying.
 
Riding the brake pedal with your left foot MAY improve your reaction  time, 
but I bet  left foot braking is NOT safer in the overall street  driving 
scheme 
of things!  The only group interested in promoting left  foot braking is the 
brake repair shops, who will see a left foot braker's  vehicle as core 
business!
 
End Rant!  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Peter T . Arnold
Absolutely, a  wonderful skill when used in the right venue.

Not something useful in rush hour traffic.

The famed Jimmy Clark always had a car w/automatic for city use.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 01:16:08 -0500, you wrote:

Chuck,

Once you get heel and toe down, you'll wonder how you ever drove a stick
without using it.  Go into a corner and get it all just right, and it gives
a smile no paddle shift system ever will.  If you want to be one with your
car, and get the most out of it, heel and toe. :-)

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a passion

 Hey Jim.
 Does this mean we can't get together for lunch sometime.
 'Cuz I regularly left foot brake  And on occasion am trying
 to learn heel and toe braking technique  on the 5 spd 16V

 Be back in Phoenix mid January..

 Will give you a call then..

 Chuck
 
 
 
 
  End Rant!
 
  Jim  Friesen
  Phoenix AZ
  79 300SD, 264 K miles
  98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
 
 
 
 
  **See AOL's top rated recipes
  (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)
  ___
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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and or Hilarious driving stories

2007-12-22 Thread Allan Streib

On Dec 22, 2007, at 3:15 AM, archer wrote:

 What about all the ladies (and some men) with poor mechanical  
 aptitude who
 would have less accidents if all they had to remember was that the  
 right
 foot made the car go and the left foot made the car stop?

Honestly?  I think if their motor skills are that limited then they  
should not be operating a car.

I never *think* about which pedal goes and which one stops, any  
more than I think about whether I need to move my right foot or my  
left foot for the next step when I'm walking.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread John Robbins
Timothy Robinson wrote:
 The only exception unfortunately is computer hardware. I won't even rant at
 how the moment you buy something it's planned obsolete.

So you would prefer computing tech to stop advancing?

This is why you don't buy the leading edge.  For an amount of 
horsepower  you can buy, there is an exponential price curve.  There 
is usually a nice price point where you can get new stuff that will last 
a long time and not break the bank.

That said, depending on your needs stuff in the last 4 years hasn't 
necessarily gone obsolete.  Not the fastest, but certainly enough to get 
the job done.  Kinda like a 240D.

FWIW, my linux server is 6 years old.  I've only upgraded the RAM and 
the hard drives.  My desktop is about a year old and I bought it on sale 
for $150 (normally ~500!!).  My laptop I bought on sale for $300 two 
years ago.  Computers don't have to be expensive.

John

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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and or Hilarious driving stories

2007-12-22 Thread E M
If having to decide what pedal to push confuses anyway, just park it and
take the bus.

Ed
300E

On 21/12/2007, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  As much as women vehemently insist on enjoying the status as drivers
  equal-to or better-than than men, it just ain't true. Most would benefit
  hugely from a very basic understanding of the vehicle and its dynamics.
 In
  addition, I just don't think it's inborn to a woman to control moving
  machinery.snip
 --
 I think the problem is the backwardness of the auto industry.  As soon as
 automatic transmissions were invented, the auto manufacturers should have
 moved the brake pedal to the left side of the steering column; leaving
 only
 the accellerator on the right side.

 It's only logical that with nearly all cars being automatic nowadays, the
 brake should be operated by the left foot and the accellerator by the
 right
 foot.  Trying to both stop and go with one foot is what confuses people
 who
 aren't mechanically inclined.
 Even if a person got confused, all they would have to do is push hard on
 both pedals and the car would not go very far, very fast.
 Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] '90 420 SEL

2007-12-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
You should have had him buy the one I was selling, it would not have had 
that problem.

Luther wrote:
 A friend of the family's 420SEL lost brakelights and the dash 
 (speedo/temp/oil etc) is inop.  The only things that work in the dash are the 
 clock and the economy gauge.  What do I need to look at and check?  I asked 
 about the fuses, and they are aluminum..that will be the first check.  If 
 that isn't it, what is next?  TIA all.
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Manual 617 conversion questions

2007-12-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
You have to have a drive shaft basically custom made for it.

OK Don wrote:
 If you drove it like you do a 240D (floored, and shift at red line),
 it wouldn't drop off the boost curve, and would be even MORE fun :-).
 There is more space between the rear of the 616 block and the firewall
 than there is with a 617, so I think they balanced the block on the
 mounts, or at least kept the weight distribution similar. I'm guessing
 that the manual tranny is shorter than an auto, so I don't know how it
 would work out.
 
 Hasn't someone on the list done this already?
 
 On Dec 21, 2007 9:35 PM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 However, if you did use a turbo 617, wouldn't it start from a stop the
 same as a non-turbo engine, then benefit from the increased torque/HP?
 Yes, but it would fall off boost at each shift.  Also, emissions
 are very poor at those times, reputedly another reason they didn't
 ever make turbo stickshift models.

 If one was to undertake this conversion, and given a suitable donor
 car, wouldn't the drive shaft be the only custom modified part?
 Probably.  And maybe not even that.  The engine 'grows' towards
 the front, usually.

 -- Jim
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] EPC sources

2007-12-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Why dont you just use it for free online?

OK Don wrote:
 The copy of the EPC that I was using has decided that it can't find
 the database anymore, for no apparent reason. I also can't find the CD
 I  installed it from. So, I did  search on eBay for it, and came up
 with these tow likely suspects. Has anyone done business with either
 of these? Do they look reputable?
 
 http://tinyurl.com/32thuc
 
 http://tinyurl.com/2kz8ev
 
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread E M
Anytime you have to downshift is the right venue.  If you don't do it,
you're only doing half your job and not matching engine speed to trans and
road speed.

Ed
300E
911SC

On 22/12/2007, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Absolutely, a  wonderful skill when used in the right venue.

 Not something useful in rush hour traffic.

 The famed Jimmy Clark always had a car w/automatic for city use.


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
 is!On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 01:16:08 -0500, you wrote:

 Chuck,
 
 Once you get heel and toe down, you'll wonder how you ever drove a stick
 without using it.  Go into a corner and get it all just right, and it
 gives
 a smile no paddle shift system ever will.  If you want to be one with
 your
 car, and get the most out of it, heel and toe. :-)
 
 Ed
 300E
 
 On 22/12/2007, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a passion
 
  Hey Jim.
  Does this mean we can't get together for lunch sometime.
  'Cuz I regularly left foot brake  And on occasion am trying
  to learn heel and toe braking technique  on the 5 spd 16V
 
  Be back in Phoenix mid January..
 
  Will give you a call then..
 
  Chuck
  
  
  
  
   End Rant!
  
   Jim  Friesen
   Phoenix AZ
   79 300SD, 264 K miles
   98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
  
  
  
  
   **See AOL's top rated recipes
   (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)
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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread E M
If you're putting your trust in your reaction time by left braking alone,
you're already off the road and in the ditch.  Think ahead and start
reacting before you need to.

I'd even dare to say, brake pressure if more important that that first
reaction time.  You can get on the brakes as fast as you like, most (non
ABS) drivers never use anywhere near their brakes full potential.  It's
something ppl should do from time to time in a safe controlled area, just to
refresh themselves as to how fast they can stop their cars, should they have
to.

The bottom line is this, if you find yourself needing to reach for the
brakes often, in such a rushed manor, you have to take a look at how your
driving and why it is you're getting yourself into these situations in the
first place.

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This is getting silly.
 Nobody ever suggested that you Rest your left foot on the brake
 pedal.  You pulled that out of the air.
 Drive with 2 feet, your choice.
 Choose to follow me and I have better reaction times because I often
 brake with my left foot, the choice of lawyers will be mine.


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
 is!



   On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 00:18:09 EST, you wrote:

 
 In a message dated 12/21/2007 8:21:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Using  one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you engage  the
 brake.  If you put the brake where the clutch is supposed to be,  then
 people who are accustomed to a manual transmission would be  punching
 the brake.
 
 If you can't stop and go with one foot you have  no business behind the
 wheel of a car.
 
 
 
 Thank you strieb!I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a
 passion!
 
 Consider a dozen cars moving down the freeway at about the
 same  speed.  The
 car showing it's brake lights, for no good  reason, is probably driven by
 a
 left foot braker.   They  sneeze, the brakes come on, the phone rings,
 the
 brakes come on, they change  lanes, the brakes come on, they tailgate
 closer than
 anyone else, the brakes  come on!
 
 Brake lights are necessary to warn of an impending speed change.
 Resting
 your left foot on the brake pedal invariably results in an
 excess  display of
 brake lights, mesmerizing the other drivers, maybe, lulling them into
 complacency, I hope not, but certainly annoying.
 
 Riding the brake pedal with your left foot MAY improve your
 reaction  time,
 but I bet  left foot braking is NOT safer in the overall street  driving
 scheme
 of things!  The only group interested in promoting left  foot braking is
 the
 brake repair shops, who will see a left foot braker's  vehicle as core
 business!
 
 End Rant!
 
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles
 98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
 
 
 
 
 **See AOL's top rated recipes
 (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby computers

2007-12-22 Thread Jim Cathey
 FWIW, my linux server is 6 years old.

This Mac G3 is probably older than that, and was given to us free.
A whopping 233 MHz, yet it serves just fine.  I don't need much,
really.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Jim Cathey
 Nobody ever suggested that you Rest your left foot on the brake
 pedal.  You pulled that out of the air.

I know there are a lot of left-foot brakers out there.
How?  Because of the number of cars with brake lights on
when they're obviously not decelerating, either steadily
or intermittently.  It's a bad habit to get into except
in exceptional circumstances, as it trains you in a way
that's incompatible with a manual car.  Whether or
not you prefer an automatic, you should be able to drive
either, safely and well.  My wife FINALLY learned clutch.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread E M
I prefer the older stuff too, especially if it can be rebuilt, or worth
rebuilding.  I'm the kind of guy who would buy an older car I like, and in
the next 10 years, spend enough money keeping it nice a I would spend to buy
a new car.  There's a certain pride and pleasure that comes with using a
well made, well engineered product, whether a car, tool, or appliance.

Ed
300E, which is quickly becoming my favorite appliance. :-)

On 22/12/2007, Timothy Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You've just gotta love 'em! I'd probably have a Kirby for carpet
 sweeping
 but I'm just sold on those old cannister types.

 Though I like the new Dyson uprights that swirl the dirt around in a
 chamber, no bag... I don't like the idea of pretty new plastic appliances
 that are disposed of after a few years. Give me my 40, 30 and 23 year old
 vacumne cleaners, my 25 y/o KitchenAid mixer, my 45 year old Hotpoint
 rotary
 ironer (mangle), etc.

 Yep, I'm compulsive about certain things. I'd rather do without until I
 could afford something of quality rather than buy cheap and replace every
 year. Appreciating quality and taking proper car of those things is a key!

 That's why this type of discussion is appropriate on a MBZ thread.


 While on a rant here... I was taught not to finance anything that
 depreciates. You'd pay interest on a loan for something new that loses
 value? That's not always possible. BUT.. I'm afraid I'm pretty close
 minded
 when it comes to being interested in new cars. I'm not at all current on
 new
 cars, optional equipment, etc. My last conversation with a car dealer was
 early last spring when I was looking for a new little Ford Ranger pickup.
 I
 walked on the lot saying I wanted a basic little 5 speed p/u. Every unit
 had
 some ridiculous add-on equipment which boosted the price. I walked on the
 lot with a price in mind and a checkbook in hand. The salesman tried so
 hard
 to sell me on some customer preferred package that he convinced me I
 would not be a customer as I didn't prefer those packages. I left.

 The only exception unfortunately is computer hardware. I won't even rant
 at
 how the moment you buy something it's planned obsolete.

 T

  From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 01:09:34 -0500
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
 
  I have an old Electrolux too, from the early 60's.  Thing is built like
 an
  old Benz. lol.  I have a box of all kinds of old attachments for it,
  including one to vacuum the dog.  It's semi-retired now and used to
 vacuum
  the cars.
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  On 22/12/2007, Timothy Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Still an Electrolux guy here. I have a 1976 model upstairs and a 1984
  model
  downstairs. Still have my grandparents' '50s model which is a chrome
 thing
  on skids. It came with turbo/air powered buffing attachments for the
 paste
  wax we used on the hardwood floors.
 
  Honestly, for the price of replacing with a new I'd just put a central
  unit
  in which exhausts to the outside. Then I could vacume the cat without
  scaring it.
 
  From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 18:57:35 -0500
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
 
  I saw the Dyson's on TV here, the day before they hit the
 shelves.  Ran
  to
  the store to get one.  Seemed enough at almost $600 at the time, but
 I'm
  a
  clean freak, so hey, why not.  Then saw it was made in China, I turned
  around and walked out.
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  On 21/12/2007, Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Some newer vacs are healthier because they have replaceable HEPA
  filters.
 
  I've heard how the Dyson vacuums clean up pet hair quite well, and
 they
  also
  don't spew the smelly exhaust out into the room as you're
  vacuuming!  When
  we were living in an apartment for a few months between houses this
  summer,
  the pet hair in such close quarters with no air circulation was too
  much
  for
  Wifey, so we decided to get a Dyson.  It did do a good job with the
 pet
  hair, the hepa filtered exhaust was wonderful, and it was much easier
  to
  maneuver.  Will it last 10-15-20 years?  I guess time will tell.
 
  Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
  1983 300sD 266Kmi, Ursula
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Manual 617 conversion questions

2007-12-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
One from a 240D should work.

Mitch Haley wrote:
 
 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 You have to have a drive shaft basically custom made for it.
 
 What about the tranny mount crossmember? Do you need to get
 one from a 300D euro manny? (BTW, I'm pretty sure the euro/manny
 driveshaft would work a treat)
 And where's Craig when we need him? Did he go on a holiday trip?
 
 Mitch.
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers/Chuck

2007-12-22 Thread JFreezn
 
I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a  passion
 
Chuck, 
 


I did start out by saying I hate left foot brakers, then I changed it to  
avoid personal connotations.  My daughter is a left foot braker, as are  most 
type A personalities, some of whom, I actually like!
 
Ya, we definitely have to do lunch and get caught up.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Peter T . Arnold
And the Diesel contact to this flame trap would be??


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!

On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 10:47:59 -0500, you wrote:

If you're putting your trust in your reaction time by left braking alone,
you're already off the road and in the ditch.  Think ahead and start
reacting before you need to.

I'd even dare to say, brake pressure if more important that that first
reaction time.  You can get on the brakes as fast as you like, most (non
ABS) drivers never use anywhere near their brakes full potential.  It's
something ppl should do from time to time in a safe controlled area, just to
refresh themselves as to how fast they can stop their cars, should they have
to.

The bottom line is this, if you find yourself needing to reach for the
brakes often, in such a rushed manor, you have to take a look at how your
driving and why it is you're getting yourself into these situations in the
first place.

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This is getting silly.
 Nobody ever suggested that you Rest your left foot on the brake
 pedal.  You pulled that out of the air.
 Drive with 2 feet, your choice.
 Choose to follow me and I have better reaction times because I often
 brake with my left foot, the choice of lawyers will be mine.


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
 is!



   On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 00:18:09 EST, you wrote:

 
 In a message dated 12/21/2007 8:21:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Using  one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you engage  the
 brake.  If you put the brake where the clutch is supposed to be,  then
 people who are accustomed to a manual transmission would be  punching
 the brake.
 
 If you can't stop and go with one foot you have  no business behind the
 wheel of a car.
 
 
 
 Thank you strieb!I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a
 passion!
 
 Consider a dozen cars moving down the freeway at about the
 same  speed.  The
 car showing it's brake lights, for no good  reason, is probably driven by
 a
 left foot braker.   They  sneeze, the brakes come on, the phone rings,
 the
 brakes come on, they change  lanes, the brakes come on, they tailgate
 closer than
 anyone else, the brakes  come on!
 
 Brake lights are necessary to warn of an impending speed change.
 Resting
 your left foot on the brake pedal invariably results in an
 excess  display of
 brake lights, mesmerizing the other drivers, maybe, lulling them into
 complacency, I hope not, but certainly annoying.
 
 Riding the brake pedal with your left foot MAY improve your
 reaction  time,
 but I bet  left foot braking is NOT safer in the overall street  driving
 scheme
 of things!  The only group interested in promoting left  foot braking is
 the
 brake repair shops, who will see a left foot braker's  vehicle as core
 business!
 
 End Rant!
 
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles
 98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
 
 
 
 
 **See AOL's top rated recipes
 (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)
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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Curt Raymond

Get central vac and never buy another vaccuum again. Even without a beater bar 
out central vac is the most effective vac I've ever used.
The hose is way lighter than any portable.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:41:12 -0500
From: Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Very heavy, my Wife would comment worse present I ever gave her.

Our present Orack is about 5 pounds of very functioanl power.

PeteOn Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:15:14 -0500, you wrote:

Some guy is selling a Kirby vacuum on Columbus CL.  Anything special
 about
these? It just looks old to me.

--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!

   
-
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread E M
Not meant as a flame or insult to any who use their left foot, I do too at
times.  But not for reaction time.  I don't know of any driving instructor
who would suggest using your left foot to brake, in the real world, would
increase you safety or braking time in anyway.

As far as I know, even though many on this list own diesels, it's not a
diesel list?  Maybe I missed that bit though?

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 And the Diesel contact to this flame trap would be??


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
 is!

 On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 10:47:59 -0500, you wrote:

 If you're putting your trust in your reaction time by left braking alone,
 you're already off the road and in the ditch.  Think ahead and start
 reacting before you need to.
 
 I'd even dare to say, brake pressure if more important that that first
 reaction time.  You can get on the brakes as fast as you like, most (non
 ABS) drivers never use anywhere near their brakes full potential.  It's
 something ppl should do from time to time in a safe controlled area, just
 to
 refresh themselves as to how fast they can stop their cars, should they
 have
 to.
 
 The bottom line is this, if you find yourself needing to reach for the
 brakes often, in such a rushed manor, you have to take a look at how your
 driving and why it is you're getting yourself into these situations in
 the
 first place.
 
 Ed
 300E
 
 On 22/12/2007, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  This is getting silly.
  Nobody ever suggested that you Rest your left foot on the brake
  pedal.  You pulled that out of the air.
  Drive with 2 feet, your choice.
  Choose to follow me and I have better reaction times because I often
  brake with my left foot, the choice of lawyers will be mine.
 
 
  --
 
  Regards,
 
  Peter T. Arnold
 
  2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
  1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
  1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
  1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
  Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
  is!
 
 
 
On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 00:18:09 EST, you wrote:
 
  
  In a message dated 12/21/2007 8:21:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  
  Using  one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you
 engage  the
  brake.  If you put the brake where the clutch is supposed to be,  then
  people who are accustomed to a manual transmission would be  punching
  the brake.
  
  If you can't stop and go with one foot you have  no business behind
 the
  wheel of a car.
  
  
  
  Thank you strieb!I hate the idea of left foot braking  with a
  passion!
  
  Consider a dozen cars moving down the freeway at about the
  same  speed.  The
  car showing it's brake lights, for no good  reason, is probably driven
 by
  a
  left foot braker.   They  sneeze, the brakes come on, the phone rings,
  the
  brakes come on, they change  lanes, the brakes come on, they tailgate
  closer than
  anyone else, the brakes  come on!
  
  Brake lights are necessary to warn of an impending speed change.
  Resting
  your left foot on the brake pedal invariably results in an
  excess  display of
  brake lights, mesmerizing the other drivers, maybe, lulling them into
  complacency, I hope not, but certainly annoying.
  
  Riding the brake pedal with your left foot MAY improve your
  reaction  time,
  but I bet  left foot braking is NOT safer in the overall
 street  driving
  scheme
  of things!  The only group interested in promoting left  foot braking
 is
  the
  brake repair shops, who will see a left foot braker's  vehicle as core
  business!
  
  End Rant!
  
  Jim  Friesen
  Phoenix AZ
  79 300SD, 264 K miles
  98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
  
  
  
  
  **See AOL's top rated recipes
  (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)
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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread E M
I was thinking to install one when I had the house rewired, but a few ppl
told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the walls as you round them
going from room to room?

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Get central vac and never buy another vaccuum again. Even without a beater
 bar out central vac is the most effective vac I've ever used.
 The hose is way lighter than any portable.

 -Curt

 Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:41:12 -0500
 From: Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Very heavy, my Wife would comment worse present I ever gave her.

 Our present Orack is about 5 pounds of very functioanl power.

 PeteOn Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:15:14 -0500, you wrote:

 Some guy is selling a Kirby vacuum on Columbus CL.  Anything special
 about
 these? It just looks old to me.

 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!


 -
 Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
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[MBZ] 1984 Mercedes 190d diesel - $1500

2007-12-22 Thread tony . bateman
This guy has an 84 190d manny nice in/out yellow beige but clutch pedal is 
siesed, can't push in pedal even with full force, runs great been sitting 3 
years just jumped it and started right up no smoke 220k. it was in the 
previous owners garage 2 years, his daughter brought it home that way, maybe 
another result of gas/brake/clutch mixup syndrome discussed here, any ideas? 
my 85 190d manny needs a little sister. Tony

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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Kevin Kraly
Get central vac and never buy another vacuum again.

Right on, Curt!  I've used ours a few times and love it too.  I had a small 
corded hand vac with a rotating brush that i **USED** to use for the stairs, 
but the central vac in the new house came with a mini powerhead which does 
such a fine job!  The larger powerhead is lighter than any portable, even 
while dragging the hose around.  I can muscle it around with one arm unlike 
the Kirby or the Dyson, and it's easy to lift too.
Central vac all the way!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266Kmi, Ursula
PS.  There's a central vac outlet and hose in the shop for vacuuming out the 
cars. 


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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Harry Watkins
We got a Roomba, loved it so much we got a Scooba, loved it so much we got a
Dirt Dog.  Our central vac stays idle most of the time.

I turn the Dirt Dog loose when I'm working in my shop area and he keeps
things pretty well picked up.

Harry

On Dec 22, 2007 12:26 PM, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I was thinking to install one when I had the house rewired, but a few ppl
 told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the walls as you round
 them
 going from room to room?

 Ed
 300E

 On 22/12/2007, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Get central vac and never buy another vaccuum again. Even without a
 beater
  bar out central vac is the most effective vac I've ever used.
  The hose is way lighter than any portable.
 
  -Curt
 
  Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:41:12 -0500
  From: Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
  Very heavy, my Wife would comment worse present I ever gave her.
 
  Our present Orack is about 5 pounds of very functioanl power.
 
  PeteOn Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:15:14 -0500, you wrote:
 
  Some guy is selling a Kirby vacuum on Columbus CL.  Anything special
  about
  these? It just looks old to me.
 
  --
 
  Regards,
 
  Peter T. Arnold
 
  2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
  1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
  1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
  1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
  Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!
 
 
  -
  Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Ed,

Then there is always powershifting...  (no clutch at all!)

Chuck
On Dec 21, 2007, at 8:16 PM, E M wrote:

 Chuck,

 Once you get heel and toe down, you'll wonder how you ever drove a  
 stick
 without using it.  Go into a corner and get it all just right, and  
 it gives
 a smile no paddle shift system ever will.  If you want to be one  
 with your
 car, and get the most out of it, heel and toe. :-)

 Ed
 300E



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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Bob,

You will get a call...

Chuck


On Dec 22, 2007, at 1:52 AM, Robert Rentfro wrote:

 Chuck, from an island, told Mr. Jim:


 Be back in Phoenix mid January..

 Will give you a call then..

 Let me know too. It would be nice to see your faces.

 Bob R.



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Re: [MBZ] 1984 Mercedes 190d diesel - $1500

2007-12-22 Thread OK Don
Possibly the clutch master cylinder has corroded/seized, or the same
with the slave cylinder.

On Dec 22, 2007 12:45 PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This guy has an 84 190d manny nice in/out yellow beige but clutch pedal is
 siesed, can't push in pedal even with full force, runs great been sitting 3
 years just jumped it and started right up no smoke 220k. it was in the
 previous owners garage 2 years, his daughter brought it home that way, maybe
 another result of gas/brake/clutch mixup syndrome discussed here, any ideas?
 my 85 190d manny needs a little sister. Tony


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] Hilarious driving stories

2007-12-22 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Hi,

I have to admit that a couple of times stopping in the 16V 5 speed, I  
have just depressed the brake pedal, forgetting to depress the clutch  
also..  Chatter, chatter, chatter  OH, Stupid ---  Depress the  
clutch!

On the other hand, in the 500E w/automatic, I have (once or twice)  
found myself depressing the brake (thinking clutch) and moved the  
shift lever to N from D, thinking I was shifting  The revs  
bring me back to reality..  DOH!!!

Take care,

Chuck

On Dec 22, 2007, at 4:17 AM, Allan Streib wrote:


 On Dec 22, 2007, at 3:15 AM, archer wrote:

 What about all the ladies (and some men) with poor mechanical
 aptitude who
 would have less accidents if all they had to remember was that the
 right
 foot made the car go and the left foot made the car stop?

 Honestly?  I think if their motor skills are that limited then they
 should not be operating a car.

 I never *think* about which pedal goes and which one stops, any
 more than I think about whether I need to move my right foot or my
 left foot for the next step when I'm walking.

 Allan

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[MBZ] oil leaks

2007-12-22 Thread Ralph W.
Hello All, 
I'm trying to track down some oil leaks in my 87 300TD. This is the wagon I 
bought from Jeff Zedic about a year ago. I think one leak may be from the 
vacuum pump. Jeff had recently replaced this and perhaps the gasket was 
installed incorrectly. Can the vacuum pump be a significant source of oil? My 
leaks are very bad. I also seem to be seeing alot of oil coming from around the 
driver side engine mount. Anyone got any idea where the exact leak would be 
coming from. I don't think the bracket for the mount has a gasket. I would 
assume it just mounts to the block. TIA.

Ralph Wasserbaech
2001 E320 AWD wagon
1990 300D
1987 300TD
1983 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
No, its not a diesel list.

E M wrote:
 Not meant as a flame or insult to any who use their left foot, I do too at
 times.  But not for reaction time.  I don't know of any driving instructor
 who would suggest using your left foot to brake, in the real world, would
 increase you safety or braking time in anyway.
 
 As far as I know, even though many on this list own diesels, it's not a
 diesel list?  Maybe I missed that bit though?
 
 Ed
 300E


-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] oil leaks

2007-12-22 Thread Jeff Zedic
Ralph,

 I've always suspected the injection pump to be producing a leak on the
engine. Also, yes full disclosure, the vacuum pump gasket is not 100% seated
correctly. I didn't notice this until AFTER everything was re-installed and
running!! At the time it was not leaking so I just left it and thanked my
lucky stars.

I think you'll see the green gasket if you look at the left hand side of the
cover near the 10 o'clock position??

Jeff Zedic
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Re: [MBZ] oil leaks

2007-12-22 Thread Zeitgeist
Yes, I concur.  It's more than likely the injection pump as the source on
the driver's side--and it's more than likely the bottom gasket, which is a
real PITA to replace in situ.

On Dec 22, 2007 12:06 PM, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've always suspected the injection pump to be producing a leak on the
 engine.
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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Fmiser
   ...  And on occasion am trying to learn heel
   and toe braking technique  on the 5 spd 16V
  
   Chuck

  Once you get heel and toe down, you'll wonder how you ever drove
  a stick without using it.  Go into a corner and get it all just
  right, and it   gives a smile no paddle shift system ever will.
  If you want to be one with   your car, and get the most out of
  it, heel and toe. :-)
  
  Ed

  Absolutely, a  wonderful skill when used in the right venue.
 
  Not something useful in rush hour traffic.
 
  The famed Jimmy Clark always had a car w/automatic for city
  use.
 
  Peter T. Arnold

 Anytime you have to downshift is the right venue.  If you
 don't do it, you're only doing half your job and not matching
 engine speed to trans and road speed.
 
 Ed

Who says you have to heel and toe to rev match during a downshift?
There are otherways.

And rev matching is most important where speed is important. In city
traffic, I would rather wear out the easy-to-replace brakes than the
clutch, engine, and transmission.

To really want to know that you can match engine speed, road speed,
and transmission gear ratio - shift without the clutch. It saves on
clutch wear. Done wrong it will wear out the syncro's, though.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] oil leaks

2007-12-22 Thread Ralph W.
Hey Jeff,
Nice to see you're still on the list. I hadn't seen you post in a while so I 
wondered if you were still around. Sounds like I have one source  of leakage 
tracked down to the vacuum pump. I don't think that it is the major source 
however. I had powerwashed the engine last week and put it on my friends 
hoist. Haven't driven it much since. I just looked at the engine again today 
and am seeing major oil leaks at the engine mount bracket. I don't think the 
IP would be wicking oil to that area. I wonder if the oil filter canister 
could be wicking oil there. The canister is really barried and I can't get a 
good look at it because of the location of the starter.

On another note the tranny finally died a few months ago. I found a local 87 
sedan with a ruined engine, due to a bad head, sitting in a salvage yard. 
Owner of the yard insisted the tranny was good. Had 225k on the clock. I 
took my chances and bought it for $300. A friend who messes with tranny's on 
the side installed it for another $250. It's run great so far, like new. I'm 
keeping my fingers crossed. Aside from the leaks the only problem is when 
the car sits for a while and it's cold I get tons of smoke at startup for a 
few minutes. Then all is well and engine runs very strong. Not bad for 300K 
on the clock. I have to get these leaks fixed. I'm making a mess of the 
street out front of my house. My neighbor has a shop and hoist and is 
constantly offering to let me use it. I think I'm embarrassing him.

- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] oil leaks


 Ralph,

 I've always suspected the injection pump to be producing a leak on the
 engine. Also, yes full disclosure, the vacuum pump gasket is not 100% 
 seated
 correctly. I didn't notice this until AFTER everything was re-installed 
 and
 running!! At the time it was not leaking so I just left it and thanked my
 lucky stars.

 I think you'll see the green gasket if you look at the left hand side of 
 the
 cover near the 10 o'clock position??

 Jeff Zedic
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Re: [MBZ] oil leaks

2007-12-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Leak sources I know about on OM603s:

Turbo pressure line -- this fouls the passenger side.

Valve cover gasket -- can leak anywhere.

Bad oil filler cap.  If there is oil standing in the drip groove 
around the cap, it's leaking.  Only does so at above idle rpms, and 
will dump copious oil down the side of the engine on the driver's side. 
  Cheap fix, a new cap is a couple bucks.  You can loose a quart of oil 
in less than 1000 miles out this one.

Injection pump -- wipe the bottom cover clean, then check again after 
driving a bit.  Requires pulling the IP to fix, as the screws are 
completely inaccessable installed.

Timing chain tensioner seal.  Dribbles oil down the passenger front 
onto the alternator.

Front crank seal (also check for a bad balancer, we are putting one on 
my brother's SDL this week).  Replace or reverse (if not previously 
reversed) the spacer behind the balancer.

Head gasket at the front chain case or around the oil drain on the rear

Crossover pipe on the intake -- there is always oil in it, but a bad 
gasket allows it to drip.  Ditto for a bad intake gasket -- look for 
oil oozing off the bottom of the runners at the head.

Oil smoke on startup means you need new valve guide seals, and at the 
milage you have, I would check for worn guides, too -- usually due for 
a valve job at 250,000 to 300,000 miles on Benz aluminum heads, the 
exhaust valves will be worn out.

Peter


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[MBZ] OT: Dodge Dakota won't get out of first gear

2007-12-22 Thread Curt Raymond
Oh man, yet another mechanical malady...
It would appear my '96 Dakota won't get out of first gear. It'll wind right up 
to 30mph but won't ever shift. Well sometimes but then if you slow down it goes 
back and the game resets.
At first I thought it was slipping into neutral but thats not the case its 
definately staying in first.
I went to FLAPS and got a bottle of that Lucas trans goop which doesn't seem to 
have done anything. Remember I put that in trying to troubleshoot an issue I 
now know I don't have.

The Haynes book basically says forget it, ATs are too complicated...

-Curt

   
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Re: [MBZ] Downshifting

2007-12-22 Thread RELNGSON
Anytime you have to downshift is the right venue. If you don't do it, 
you're only doing half your job and not matching engine speed to trans and road 
speed.

Now, you are talking about double-clutching, not heel and toeing which are 
not necessarily used in combination. Certainly in everyday driving, 
heel-and-toeing is not going to be used because you are not applying that much 
braking. 
When driving my Porsche, I almost always downshift so as to be in the right 
gear 
when I want to accellerate. And driving on the track, heel-and-toe would be 
used all the time.

Even in the MB, I sometimes run in 3rd or 4th gear (both lockups) in 25-35 
mph traffic both for slowing and accellerating.

I haven't driven a manual diesel in a long time but it seems to me that 
heel-and-toeing one would be a waste of time becuse of the slow throttle 
response.

RLE



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Dodge Dakota won't get out of first gear

2007-12-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Make sure the kickdown rod is working (if this is still like the old 
Toqueflight and has mechanical throttle position sensing).  Stuck at 
wide open, it won't let the tranny upshift. You may need to pull the 
pan to verify that the lever isn't broken inside.

Otherwise, if it's electronically controlled, make sure the electrical 
connector is attached and not corroded.

Beyond that, I'm afraid I can't be much help.  My experience with 
Chyrsler auto trannys is limited -- last time I had one that did that, 
the lever for the kickdown was broken off inside on one, and the 
remplacement was missing some slip rings on the stator support, which 
of course means someone rebuilt it, probably while seriously 
intoxicated.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Manual 617 conversion questions

2007-12-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 11:05:48 -0500 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 
 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
  
  You have to have a drive shaft basically custom made for it.
 
 What about the tranny mount crossmember? Do you need to get
 one from a 300D euro manny? (BTW, I'm pretty sure the euro/manny
 driveshaft would work a treat)

I _think_ the one in our car is from a manny-tranny 240D, but I'm not
sure. When I did our conversion, I started with a 617 with 240D stick
shift from a fellow back east. I also had access to a Euro 123.130
(naturally aspirated 617 with stick), so I may have used the cross member
from that. I do recall that I used the 123.130's transmission.


 And where's Craig when we need him? Did he go on a holiday trip?

I went to Eugene, OR, last week and am still catching up on (wading
through) the several hundred list emails that were waiting for me upon
my return...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Manual 617 conversion questions

2007-12-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:35:54 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  If one was to undertake this conversion, and given a suitable donor
  car, wouldn't the drive shaft be the only custom modified part?
 
 Probably.  And maybe not even that.  The engine 'grows' towards
 the front, usually.

No, the 5th cylinder is added at the back of the engine. You do need a
special driveshaft.

Don't forget, if you're going from an automatic to a stick that you also
need the clutch pedal and hanger, master and slave cylinders, and the
piping between the cylinders.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Dodge Dakota won't get out of first gear

2007-12-22 Thread Fmiser
 Oh man, yet another mechanical malady...
 It would appear my '96 Dakota won't get out of first gear.
 It'll wind right up to 30mph but won't ever shift. Well
 sometimes but then if you slow down it goes back and the game
 resets. At first I thought it was slipping into neutral but
 thats not the case its definately staying in first. I went to
 FLAPS and got a bottle of that Lucas trans goop which doesn't
 seem to have done anything. Remember I put that in trying to
 troubleshoot an issue I now know I don't have.
 
 The Haynes book basically says forget it, ATs are too
 complicated...
 
 -Curt

It sounds like it _could_ be the governor. That is usually
fairly accessible. On all the transmissions I'm familiar with
(not many...) it doesn't even require the pan to be removed.

That would be the easy fix. Anything else will probably involve
more than list posts to repair...

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Manual 617 conversion questions

2007-12-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 00:03:36 -0600 Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The flywheel is the tough part. Since the OM617 is _not_
 internally balanced and the OM616 _is_, the right way to do the
 job is to have non-balanced flywheel that compensates for the
 engine imbalance.
 
 Mathieu J. Cama and Craig McCluskey have both done it. I think
 there were others too. Maybe they can chime in with the real
 answer.

The driveshaft isn't exactly easy, but the flywheel is difficult, if you
want to do it right.

If you want to do it the right way, like the factory manual says, you'll
need to remove the old flywheel from the engine (AFTER marking its
position) and balance the new flywheel to it (facing the same direction,
but rotated 180 degrees, IIRC). I didn't do that. I had the flywheel
static balanced and slapped it on the engine (after putting the proper
input shaft support bearing in) and got away with it. I've driven 65 kmi
since then without problems. YMMV!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Downshifting

2007-12-22 Thread E M
My daily driving allows me to use enough brake force that heel and toe
downshifts are always used.  Even when using moderate brake force, I can
blip the throttle and keep pretty even pressure (not threshold) on the
brakes.  I make double-clutching part of the process, though many don't.
The double clutching is what helps spin up the next gear set before it's
engaged.  Many just let the sycros do all the work.  Back in the day, the
917 drivers hated the syncos in the gearboxes as they complained they slowed
the gear changes down.

In the Benz, I'll use 2nd with the slush box to hold or delay an upshift at
times.  Haven't used it while slowing much, other than if I have lower rpm's
anyway, I'm coming to a stop and I know I want to hold 2nd while
accelerating away.

I can't comment on diesels as I've only driven a few (old 300D and 300SD),
but yes, they did seem to have very long  pedal travel and would require
different ankles to heel and toe than what I came equipped with.

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Anytime you have to downshift is the right venue. If you don't do it,
 you're only doing half your job and not matching engine speed to trans and
 road
 speed.

 Now, you are talking about double-clutching, not heel and toeing which are
 not necessarily used in combination. Certainly in everyday driving,
 heel-and-toeing is not going to be used because you are not applying that
 much braking.
 When driving my Porsche, I almost always downshift so as to be in the
 right gear
 when I want to accellerate. And driving on the track, heel-and-toe would
 be
 used all the time.

 Even in the MB, I sometimes run in 3rd or 4th gear (both lockups) in 25-35
 mph traffic both for slowing and accellerating.

 I haven't driven a manual diesel in a long time but it seems to me that
 heel-and-toeing one would be a waste of time becuse of the slow throttle
 response.

 RLE



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Re: [MBZ] Downshifting

2007-12-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:20:50 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I haven't driven a manual diesel in a long time but it seems to me that 
 heel-and-toeing one would be a waste of time becuse of the slow throttle
 response.

Our '72 220D/8 (OM615) had a throttle plate setup and dreadful slow
throttle response. I went from a '68 Lotus Europa to that and had to
abandon double-clutching.

Our '82 240D/3.0 has much improved throttle response and I regularly
double-clutch, particularly when slowing when going up a hill. My wife
doesn't understand what I'm doing, it works so well.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread E M
heel and toeing saves your engine, and trans.  The whole idea behind heel
and toe is to match engine, trans and wheel speed.  As speed increases, it
pays in other ways too, as you heel and toe gives you a nice stable
platform, and you can then seperate different parts of the car and allow
them to work to they full potential.  You are in no way putting added stress
on any of these things, just the opposite.  You are however using the brakes
to slow the car, not the engine, but that's what brakes are made for, and
easy and cheap to replace as you say.

Ed
300E



  Anytime you have to downshift is the right venue.  If you
  don't do it, you're only doing half your job and not matching
  engine speed to trans and road speed.
 
  Ed

 Who says you have to heel and toe to rev match during a downshift?
 There are otherways.

 And rev matching is most important where speed is important. In city
 traffic, I would rather wear out the easy-to-replace brakes than the
 clutch, engine, and transmission.

 To really want to know that you can match engine speed, road speed,
 and transmission gear ratio - shift without the clutch. It saves on
 clutch wear. Done wrong it will wear out the syncro's, though.

 --  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Curt Raymond

Probably true. You'd want to have enough ports so that you'd never need to 
really yank on the hose to clean a room. In our little house we're fine with 
just one port.
I try to be careful going room to room not to drag the hose against the corners.

Still, you gotta try one, even if it ment repainting a couple spots (or 
installing plastic shielding) it'd be worth it. So much easier, so quiet.
What happens with your vac if you accidentally grab a plastic grocery bag? With 
our central vac it means it'll go in the trash when I empty the cannister NEXT 
YEAR. Yeah I only need to empty it once a year...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:26:24 -0500
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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I was thinking to install one when I had the house rewired, but a few
 ppl
told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the walls as you round
 them
going from room to room?

Ed
300E

   
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Re: [MBZ] Downshifting

2007-12-22 Thread E M
The problem if you let your wife or girlfriend see you heel and toe is,
they'll ask why you're so good dancing on the pedals, and yet always pass up
the chance to dance at weddings, claiming to have two left feet. ;-)

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:20:50 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I haven't driven a manual diesel in a long time but it seems to me that
  heel-and-toeing one would be a waste of time becuse of the slow throttle
  response.

 Our '72 220D/8 (OM615) had a throttle plate setup and dreadful slow
 throttle response. I went from a '68 Lotus Europa to that and had to
 abandon double-clutching.

 Our '82 240D/3.0 has much improved throttle response and I regularly
 double-clutch, particularly when slowing when going up a hill. My wife
 doesn't understand what I'm doing, it works so well.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and/OT: now left foot brakers

2007-12-22 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Dec 22, 2007 7:56 AM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I know there are a lot of left-foot brakers out there.
 How?  Because of the number of cars with brake lights on
 when they're obviously not decelerating, either steadily
 or intermittently.

I've made the same observation, although sometimes I think I'm seeing
a left-foot braker when it's really just a new car with superbright
retina-blasting LED taillights.   I hate those things.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Dodge Dakota won't get out of first gear

2007-12-22 Thread Curt Raymond

Hi Peter,

Its a '96 and Haynes seems to indicate its all electronically controlled. 
Even if it weren't theres only controls, one is a throttle lever, the other the 
gearshift lever.
I verified that the throttle cable to the trans moves at the engine. I guess I 
should crawl under the truck and have my wife pump the gas and see if maybe the 
throttle lever isn't moving underneith. Maybe its pinned and the truck thinks 
its supposed to be kicking down constantly.

Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning.
Otherwise I talked to my MB Indy tonight (190D needs an alternator, no joy for 
me this weekend) and he suggested the trans place I'd already figured to go to.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 15:29:37 -0600
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Dodge Dakota won't get out of first gear
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Make sure the kickdown rod is working (if this is still like the old 
Toqueflight and has mechanical throttle position sensing).  Stuck at 
wide open, it won't let the tranny upshift. You may need to pull the 
pan to verify that the lever isn't broken inside.

Otherwise, if it's electronically controlled, make sure the electrical 
connector is attached and not corroded.

Beyond that, I'm afraid I can't be much help.  My experience with 
Chyrsler auto trannys is limited -- last time I had one that did that, 
the lever for the kickdown was broken off inside on one, and the 
remplacement was missing some slip rings on the stator support, which 
of course means someone rebuilt it, probably while seriously 
intoxicated.

Peter

   
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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread LWB250
The last house we built in Wisconsin was over 3,000 sf
and two stories.  There was no way we were dragging a
vacuum around the house, so we put in a central vac
system.  Definitely worth every penny, for a number of
reasons.

And yes, I too only had to empty the drum about
once/twice a year.  Nice.

Had the builder for this house not been such a putz
about us doing our own stuff to the house I would have
put one in here as well.

Dan



--- Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Probably true. You'd want to have enough ports so
 that you'd never need to really yank on the hose to
 clean a room. In our little house we're fine with
 just one port.
 I try to be careful going room to room not to drag
 the hose against the corners.
 
 Still, you gotta try one, even if it ment repainting
 a couple spots (or installing plastic shielding)
 it'd be worth it. So much easier, so quiet.
 What happens with your vac if you accidentally grab
 a plastic grocery bag? With our central vac it means
 it'll go in the trash when I empty the cannister
 NEXT YEAR. Yeah I only need to empty it once a
 year...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:26:24 -0500
 From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 I was thinking to install one when I had the house
 rewired, but a few
  ppl
 told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the
 walls as you round
  them
 going from room to room?
 
 Ed
 300E
 

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[MBZ] [NMC] Early Christmas gift :-)

2007-12-22 Thread E M
Hi Everyone,

A friend just stopped around with an early Christmas gift.  A bottle of wine
and Jackie Stewart's bio, Winning Is Not Enough. I was watching the YouTube
vids yesterday of Sabine Schmitz and it mentioned in one of them, Steward
named the Ring, the Green Hell.  I think he really gave a lot or racers a
voice at a time when most weren't expected to make it through more than a
few years in the sport due to the dangers.  Should be a good read.

Ed
300E
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Re: [MBZ] downshifts

2007-12-22 Thread RELNGSON
My daily driving allows me to use enough brake force that heel and toe 
downshifts are always used.  Even when using moderate brake force, I can
blip the throttle and keep pretty even pressure (not threshold) on the 
brakes. 

So you drive the 911 every day, then. And you wait until the very last moment 
to brake on the street? Sounds like a setup to get rear-ended to me.

I can't comment on diesels as I've only driven a few (old 300D and 300SD), 
but yes, they did seem to have very long  pedal travel and would require
different ankles to heel and toe than what I came equipped with.

Both automatics so obviously what we are talking about here does not apply. 
And I was referring to slow throttle response, not long pedal travel.

RLE



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[MBZ] diesel racers

2007-12-22 Thread E M
I have a question pertaining to motor sports.  I know many on the list drive
diesels.  Are those of you who do mostly interested in them as daily
drivers, or do you follow diesels in motor sport as well?  I know Mercedes
isn't overly involved at the moment, well, not to my knowledge anyway, but
Audi and BMW both have diesel racing programs.  I've been to a few races to
watch the Audi's, and the most amazing thing is, how quiet they are.  Gas
mileage and fewer stops have given them an edge often.  I'm sure if they
haven't done so already, mercedes and their bluetech engines will soon be
added to the  grids.

Ed
300E
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Re: [MBZ] downshifts

2007-12-22 Thread E M
On 22/12/2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My daily driving allows me to use enough brake force that heel and toe
 downshifts are always used. Even when using moderate brake force, I can
 blip the throttle and keep pretty even pressure (not threshold) on the
 brakes. 

 So you drive the 911 every day, then. And you wait until the very last
 moment
 to brake on the street? Sounds like a setup to get rear-ended to me.


3 seasons, as often as I can.  See my post and read I'm able to heel and toe
without threshold braking all the time.  I tend to check my mirrors from
time to time too before breaking.  If he's riding me that close, guess I'll
just have to pray his left foot is hovering over the brake pedal to allow
him the faster response time he'll need.

I can't comment on diesels as I've only driven a few (old 300D and 300SD),
 but yes, they did seem to have very long pedal travel and would require
 different ankles to heel and toe than what I came equipped with.

 Both automatics so obviously what we are talking about here does not
 apply.
 And I was referring to slow throttle response, not long pedal travel.


As I said, very little experience in diesels, stick, auto or otherwise.  The
few I drove seemed to respond quick enough for what they were and pull fine
from down low

Ed
300E

RLE



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[MBZ] OT: Lose some, win some

2007-12-22 Thread Curt Raymond
I gotta toot my horn on this one, after a couple days of crushing defeats on 
the automotive front (190D needs an alternator, not a whopping surprise) I 
bodgered together lights for my new-to-me snowmobile by stealing some wiring 
from a non-runner and a taillight bulb from my wife's motorcycle (it doesn't 
need it right now).
Then I proceeded to make a new starter button spring for said motorcycle. Its 
been sitting right in the way in the garage because I was cleaning the contacts 
on the starter button and managed to lose the spring. Last night at the 
hardware store I noticed a big box of springs and picked one mostly at random. 
A little snipping and bending and it worked perfectly. Tomorrow I can reconnect 
the gas tank, start it up, change the oil and finally put it away for winter... 
Which frees up space for the non-runner snowmobile and the cycle starts over 
with another piece of equipment.

Well I though I was winning.

-Curt

   
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[MBZ] OT - Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread wilton strickland
'Been using Pullman central vac system everywhere I've lived, except
Thailand and Greenland since 1968.  'Made a shop vac about 15 yrs ago using
a plastic bucket and a vac motor/turbine left over from a system I designed
and installed in IBM's first circuit chip lab at NC's Research Triangle Park
in about 1969/70.  'Still using small domestic vac cleaner I bought for my
mother in 1954 - 'use it mainly now for sucking oil from my MB's.  'Don't
remember the make, but most mainline vacs use Lamb motors, which last a
LONG time.

BTW, I've been using right foot only for going AND stopping ground vehicles
for 59 years.  Use whichever foot you like for stopping; just, PLEASE don't
ride the brake pedal with it and make the rest of us behind you wonder
what you're going to do because of the intermittent (and sometimes
continuous) brake lights.

Wilton



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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Harry Watkins
  Ed, don't do it until you at least try a Roomba.  I'm telling you, the
other vacuum systems won't be used much when you have one.  Our first was in
operation during Thanksgiving 2006.  We had it running on the last day as
our guests (mostly family) were leaving for home, its hard not to watch it
the first time and they did.  I believe all but one family bought theirs
within a week or so and love it like we do ours.

We named ours Albert Einstein because its so smart and we work Albert like a
slave, along with his sister Alberta, the Scooba, mops floors.

Albert will do a room and then dock himself for recharging.  If he gets low
on battery, he finds the charging port and docks.  He won't go over an edge,
his sensor stops and reverses him.  I put him in the MB trunk, my pickup bed
and the TD, he does a good job while I do something else.

The latest models are suppose to be even better, hard to believe.

Harry

Harry


On Dec 22, 2007 6:25 PM, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Alright, now you guys have me thinking. I'm going to have a poke around
 and
 see about running the pipes for one.  Are all the pipes in the wall rigid,
 or can you get a flex pipe for routing through tricky bits in the walls
 and
 ceilings?

 Ed
 300E

 On 22/12/2007, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  The last house we built in Wisconsin was over 3,000 sf
  and two stories.  There was no way we were dragging a
  vacuum around the house, so we put in a central vac
  system.  Definitely worth every penny, for a number of
  reasons.
 
  And yes, I too only had to empty the drum about
  once/twice a year.  Nice.
 
  Had the builder for this house not been such a putz
  about us doing our own stuff to the house I would have
  put one in here as well.
 
  Dan
 
 
 
  --- Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  
   Probably true. You'd want to have enough ports so
   that you'd never need to really yank on the hose to
   clean a room. In our little house we're fine with
   just one port.
   I try to be careful going room to room not to drag
   the hose against the corners.
  
   Still, you gotta try one, even if it ment repainting
   a couple spots (or installing plastic shielding)
   it'd be worth it. So much easier, so quiet.
   What happens with your vac if you accidentally grab
   a plastic grocery bag? With our central vac it means
   it'll go in the trash when I empty the cannister
   NEXT YEAR. Yeah I only need to empty it once a
   year...
  
   -Curt
  
   Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:26:24 -0500
   From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Message-ID:
  
  
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
  
   I was thinking to install one when I had the house
   rewired, but a few
ppl
   told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the
   walls as you round
them
   going from room to room?
  
   Ed
   300E
  
  
   -
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   Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread E M
Hi Harry,

I wasn't sure what a Roomba was, so did a search.  Looks cool, the cats
would love it. :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tM0NsPNkyf0

Ed
300E

On 22/12/2007, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   Ed, don't do it until you at least try a Roomba.  I'm telling you, the
 other vacuum systems won't be used much when you have one.  Our first was
 in
 operation during Thanksgiving 2006.  We had it running on the last day as
 our guests (mostly family) were leaving for home, its hard not to watch it
 the first time and they did.  I believe all but one family bought theirs
 within a week or so and love it like we do ours.

 We named ours Albert Einstein because its so smart and we work Albert like
 a
 slave, along with his sister Alberta, the Scooba, mops floors.

 Albert will do a room and then dock himself for recharging.  If he gets
 low
 on battery, he finds the charging port and docks.  He won't go over an
 edge,
 his sensor stops and reverses him.  I put him in the MB trunk, my pickup
 bed
 and the TD, he does a good job while I do something else.

 The latest models are suppose to be even better, hard to believe.

 Harry

 Harry


 On Dec 22, 2007 6:25 PM, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Alright, now you guys have me thinking. I'm going to have a poke around
  and
  see about running the pipes for one.  Are all the pipes in the wall
 rigid,
  or can you get a flex pipe for routing through tricky bits in the walls
  and
  ceilings?
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  On 22/12/2007, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   The last house we built in Wisconsin was over 3,000 sf
   and two stories.  There was no way we were dragging a
   vacuum around the house, so we put in a central vac
   system.  Definitely worth every penny, for a number of
   reasons.
  
   And yes, I too only had to empty the drum about
   once/twice a year.  Nice.
  
   Had the builder for this house not been such a putz
   about us doing our own stuff to the house I would have
   put one in here as well.
  
   Dan
  
  
  
   --- Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   
Probably true. You'd want to have enough ports so
that you'd never need to really yank on the hose to
clean a room. In our little house we're fine with
just one port.
I try to be careful going room to room not to drag
the hose against the corners.
   
Still, you gotta try one, even if it ment repainting
a couple spots (or installing plastic shielding)
it'd be worth it. So much easier, so quiet.
What happens with your vac if you accidentally grab
a plastic grocery bag? With our central vac it means
it'll go in the trash when I empty the cannister
NEXT YEAR. Yeah I only need to empty it once a
year...
   
-Curt
   
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:26:24 -0500
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
To: Mercedes Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
   
   
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
   
I was thinking to install one when I had the house
rewired, but a few
 ppl
told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the
walls as you round
 them
going from room to room?
   
Ed
300E
   
   
-
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with
Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum - Roomba

2007-12-22 Thread Bill Ringgold
We bought a top line Roomba when I saw my cousin's.  We kept it for a few weeks 
and returned it.  Perhaps it was just our house, but it kept getting stuck 
under counter edges and binding up on rugs.  It also tended to get lost under 
our living room furniture.  Others seem happy with them, but we were not.  That 
was 2 1/2 years ago and it could be they have improved since ours.  I'd suggest 
buying from a store that is good about returns.
BillR

-Original Message-
From: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: 12/22/07 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

  Ed, don't do it until you at least try a Roomba.  I'm telling you, the
other vacuum systems won't be used much when you have one.  Our first was in
operation during Thanksgiving 2006.  We had it running on the last day as
our guests (mostly family) were leaving for home, its hard not to watch it
the first time and they did.  I believe all but one family bought theirs
within a week or so and love it like we do ours.

We named ours Albert Einstein because its so smart and we work Albert like a
slave, along with his sister Alberta, the Scooba, mops floors.

Albert will do a room and then dock himself for recharging.  If he gets low
on battery, he finds the charging port and docks.  He won't go over an edge,
his sensor stops and reverses him.  I put him in the MB trunk, my pickup bed
and the TD, he does a good job while I do something else.

The latest models are suppose to be even better, hard to believe.

Harry

Harry


On Dec 22, 2007 6:25 PM, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Alright, now you guys have me thinking. I'm going to have a poke around
 and
 see about running the pipes for one.  Are all the pipes in the wall rigid,
 or can you get a flex pipe for routing through tricky bits in the walls
 and
 ceilings?

 Ed
 300E

 On 22/12/2007, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  The last house we built in Wisconsin was over 3,000 sf
  and two stories.  There was no way we were dragging a
  vacuum around the house, so we put in a central vac
  system.  Definitely worth every penny, for a number of
  reasons.
 
  And yes, I too only had to empty the drum about
  once/twice a year.  Nice.
 
  Had the builder for this house not been such a putz
  about us doing our own stuff to the house I would have
  put one in here as well.
 
  Dan
 
 
 
  --- Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  
   Probably true. You'd want to have enough ports so
   that you'd never need to really yank on the hose to
   clean a room. In our little house we're fine with
   just one port.
   I try to be careful going room to room not to drag
   the hose against the corners.
  
   Still, you gotta try one, even if it ment repainting
   a couple spots (or installing plastic shielding)
   it'd be worth it. So much easier, so quiet.
   What happens with your vac if you accidentally grab
   a plastic grocery bag? With our central vac it means
   it'll go in the trash when I empty the cannister
   NEXT YEAR. Yeah I only need to empty it once a
   year...
  
   -Curt
  
   Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:26:24 -0500
   From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Message-ID:
  
  
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
  
   I was thinking to install one when I had the house
   rewired, but a few
ppl
   told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the
   walls as you round
them
   going from room to room?
  
   Ed
   300E
  
  
   -
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   Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
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Re: [MBZ] Glow light - '90 300D 2.5

2007-12-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:25:38 -0600 Richard Smith
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On 12/20/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  BTW, I also confirmed the wiring between amp and GPs was good
  using the WSM method.

 Sorry to ask a dumb question, but what is the WSM method?


Yes, indeed, what is the WSM method?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Mitch Haley
LWB250 wrote:
 
 Had the builder for this house not been such a putz
 about us doing our own stuff to the house I would have
 put one in here as well.

Reminds me of something I read once. The client wanted sprayed in
place foam insulation, and he knew the insulation contractor he 
wanted. The builder insisted on doing it himself with fiberglas. 
The client told him that he had already chosen the insulation and
vender, but it was less certain who the general contractor would
be. If the GC couldn't work with that insulator, he'd have to find
another GC. Suddenly the GC became a lot more flexible on the
insulation. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Dodge Dakota won't get out of first gear

2007-12-22 Thread Mitch Haley
Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Hi Peter,
 
 Its a '96 and Haynes seems to indicate its all electronically controlled.

When the connector corroded on the vehicle speed sensor on a friend's
Corolla, the car would grab 1st gear (at any speed) when the sensor
cut out. If you stopped and restarted with the sensor dead, the computer
was smart enough to guess what the speed should be from the tach signal
and compensate. It shifted poorly without the VSS, but it was driveable
and I think it even locked the converter. I'm not sure if your computer
is that smart or if a VSS failure would leave you stuck in first.

If you have an electronic speedo, it won't work without the VSS. 

One day my Horizon wouldn't start. There was no trouble code. In 
desperation, I unplugged sensors one at a time and tried to start it.
My 3rd guess was the MAP sensor. It started and ran with the MAP
unplugged, but every time I changed the throttle setting it 
stumbled until the O2 sensor corrected it. I drove it to the
parts store and replaced the sensor, problem solved. Sometimes
if a sensor goes bad and the computer believes the bad signal, you
can force it into a backup mode by unplugging the bad sensor.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Got my W108 back today!

2007-12-22 Thread andrew strasfogel
Do NOT get the spring kit!  The car is too nice and deserves an OEM rear
axle compensator.  It won't even cost you that much more.  Look for a good
used one on ebay.

On 12/22/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  My theory is that, like every other nitrogen-charged springing device,
  it is reliable and related systems do not leak UNTIL the nitrogen
  charge dissipates,

 I do not believe that there is a nitrogen charge in there at all,
 sorry.  That crap came later.  I can't believe that a car with
 grease fittings had a non-serviceable active suspension component.

  I'd bet the hydropneumatic compensator is a bulletproof design as long
  as there's a gas charge...

 I think that the seals wear out, and then it stops working right.

 But if I actually had one I'd have more of an expert opinion.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Kevin Kraly
What happens with your vac if you accidentally grab a plastic grocery bag?

One was on the floor while vacuuming, so I thought I'd try it.  Just as 
yours did, ours gobbled it right up.  I pulled off the cannister, and sure 
enough, there it was.  The first time I used it, I wanted to check and see 
how much went into the cannister.  It will be able to go quite a while 
between dumps.  What brand is your central vac?  Ours is an Electrolux 
Centralux system.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] copper thieves

2007-12-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:17:07 -0500 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 
 Bill wrote:
  
  And buy something nice for one of your MB's.
 
 How heavy is four-ought? If it's manageable, I'd be tempted to make
 myself a new set of welding cables instead of selling it.

They just finished filming some scenes for the upcoming film Brothers in
the house across the street. The guy rolling up the 4/0 lighting power
cables this morning said a 100' length was 85 pounds. I think he was
talking about 1 conductor.

BTW, if anyone sees the film, ours is the brick house across the street.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Harrowing and or Hilarious driving stories

2007-12-22 Thread dave walton
If you are driving any Mercedes diesel prior to 98, the brake will win
if you press it at the same time as the accelerator. Even if you floor
it - especially if you floor it.
In the 99 E300, the electronics interpret a sudden brake effort and/or
pressing both petals at once as a panic situation and immediately
exert maximum braking force on all four wheels and electronically
release the accelerator. It's quite something to experience.

-Dave Walton


On Dec 21, 2007 3:24 PM, Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   archer writes:
  
It's only logical that with nearly all cars being
automatic nowadays, the brake should be operated by the
left foot and the accellerator by the right foot. Trying
to both stop and go with one foot is what confuses people
who aren't mechanically inclined.

   Using one foot forces you to RELEASE the throttle when you
   engage the brake. If you put the brake where the clutch is
   supposed to be, then people who are accustomed to a manual
   transmission would be punching the brake.
  
   If you can't stop and go with one foot you have no business
   behind the wheel of a car.
  
   -- (presumably Allen, but not signed)

  I disagree stongly.  Your reaction times are much faster using
  2 feet.
 
  Pete

 There have been a tests the prove otherwise - but I suspect that
 they were with people who were not accustom to driving
 two-footed.

 But that reaction time looses value if the driver forgets to
 release the fuel control pedal.

 It's not possible to make the task of driving idiot proof!! Nor
 do I think it is a unalienable right.

 -- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum

2007-12-22 Thread Redghost
It is only a 20 foot hose.  It does not really go that far, so most  
folks will  have a few outlets space to allow full coverage.  I have  
two upstairs to hit all the floors.  For some reason the floor plan  
on the main floor is able to suffice with only one port, as does the  
down stairs.  Still trying to figure out how that came to happen, but  
it does.

clay

On 22 Dec 2007, at 10:26, E M wrote:

 I was thinking to install one when I had the house rewired, but a  
 few ppl
 told me the long hose can chew up the corners of the walls as you  
 round them
 going from room to room?

 Ed
 300E

 On 22/12/2007, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Get central vac and never buy another vaccuum again. Even without  
 a beater
 bar out central vac is the most effective vac I've ever used.
 The hose is way lighter than any portable.

 -Curt

 Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:41:12 -0500
 From: Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] completely OT: Kirby vacuum
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Very heavy, my Wife would comment worse present I ever gave her.

 Our present Orack is about 5 pounds of very functioanl power.

 PeteOn Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:15:14 -0500, you wrote:

 Some guy is selling a Kirby vacuum on Columbus CL.  Anything special
 about
 these? It just looks old to me.

 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car  
 that is!


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Re: [MBZ] copper thieves

2007-12-22 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:17:07 -0500, Mitch wrote:

 How heavy is four-ought? If it's manageable, I'd be tempted to
 make myself a new set of welding cables instead of selling it. 

Like in pounds or kilograms? 

Or as in current capacity?

Current capacity in a 60 deg C raceway is 195 amps.

As to it's weight.
It is 11.7 mm diameter. 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

So the area of the end of the wire is
radius (11.7 / 2 = 5.85) squared (34.2225) times pi (3.14159)
equals 107.51 mm^2 or 1.075 cm^2.

Volume equals the area of the base times the height. 

60 ft long wire = 1828.8 cm

1828.8 x 1.075 = 1966.2 cm^3

Copper's density at room temperature is 8.96 g per cm^3

1966.2 x 8.96 = 17617 g  or 17 kg  or 38.8 lbs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper

Approximately.

--  Philip

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