Re: [MBZ] Anybody got a carfax?
I think Mitch was referring to the old gray-area trick of listing the
car you're interested in on eBay local for $300,000 starting bid,
getting the car report, then canceling the auction.
I've never done it and don't endorse it, but people say it works.
Walt
On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 11:05 PM, Joe Sasser joesas...@mac.com wrote:
it's not on e-bay, it's a referral from a long-time friend of mine, who I
trust. Was just hoping for some info on it before I leave to go pick it up.
Thanks
On Mar 2, 2011, at 8:37 PM, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2011 12:11:53 -0500
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody got a carfax?
Message-ID: 4d6e7a59.10...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
1986 560SEC?
At what point in the listing process does eBay give you a Carfax?
Is it before you finalize the listing?
Joe Sasser wrote:
I'm making a deal on an '86 ('88...can't remember), and need to check
out what I can about it before traveling to pick it up. It's got some
problems he's already told me about, just seems like something's missing.
VIN is:WDBCA45D1GA256289.
Thanks for any/all assistance.
___
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___
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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts
A 10 x 20 foot slab, 4 thick takes ~ 7 cy, at least $ 800. Add in $ 100 for 2X4 forming and reinforcement wire. A crew of 3 men @ $ 15/hr takes 4 hours or ~ $ 200. The ratio labour vs.material cost is ~ 20 %. And they bring the tools. On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 8:49 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: Exactly - I finally paid to have my last slab poured and finished -- too old for that much manual labor now -- like roofing. On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 8:47 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote: Manfred wrote: Now mind you I don't know much about all that as I don't even play a concrete finisher on TV much less in real life though I have done a few slabs over the years. Just don't want to do any more. Lol. I was going to pour a new driveway this fall. You may have just talked me out of it. Rick Sent from my iPhone -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX '82 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Hard to beat a 126
Thats why I call my '82 Die Bismark (as in battleship). Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX '82 300SD On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 4:27 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote: Yeah, I miss mine except in parking garages (they can be a bit ponderous there)... My wife described it as a BarcaLounger on wheels... ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts
Hans Neureiter wrote: A 10 x 20 foot slab, 4 thick takes ~ 7 cy, at least $ 800. We used a 7yd truckload to make a 9'x pretty long slab, 6-8 thick, several years ago. There are 27 cubic feet in a yard, and about 80 square feet of 4 thick in a yard. Wasn't much labor involved for us three wimps. The driver laid down a squiggly line of concrete, the two of us who had rubber boots lifted the reinforcing mesh to put it on top of that concrete, and the driver proceeded with filling our form. We screed it off with a 12' 2x6, which might have been work if the driver had grossly overfilled the form, then went to lunch. When we got back, we brushed the surface with an old shop broom on a rope. That slab is in good shape 15 years later, in spite of being a couple feet under water once or twice a year, but some fool did manage to break a small chunk off it by driving a garbage truck over the side and dropping the frame onto the edge of the slab. I bet the tow truck driver didn't enjoy that job. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts
My error. My driveway is 40 feet long. Had I ordered 5 cy, the cost would have been the same ($ 110/cy + $ 200 surcharge for short loads). Good thing I did. He had a little bit left from the full 7cy load which went back to his wash-out pile. On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 7:36 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: Hans Neureiter wrote: A 10 x 20 foot slab, 4 thick takes ~ 7 cy, at least $ 800. We used a 7yd truckload to make a 9'x pretty long slab, 6-8 thick, several years ago. There are 27 cubic feet in a yard, and about 80 square feet of 4 thick in a yard. Wasn't much labor involved for us three wimps. The driver laid down a squiggly line of concrete, the two of us who had rubber boots lifted the reinforcing mesh to put it on top of that concrete, and the driver proceeded with filling our form. We screed it off with a 12' 2x6, which might have been work if the driver had grossly overfilled the form, then went to lunch. When we got back, we brushed the surface with an old shop broom on a rope. That slab is in good shape 15 years later, in spite of being a couple feet under water once or twice a year, but some fool did manage to break a small chunk off it by driving a garbage truck over the side and dropping the frame onto the edge of the slab. I bet the tow truck driver didn't enjoy that job. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX '82 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts
Back to the original topic: I had access to a car lift and replaced the leaking pitman shaft seal. Easy 30 min job with the car up there. The bottom of the oilfilter housing is soaked with oil. Could not tell where its coming from. On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 7:36 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: Hans Neureiter wrote: A 10 x 20 foot slab, 4 thick takes ~ 7 cy, at least $ 800. We used a 7yd truckload to make a 9'x pretty long slab, 6-8 thick, several years ago. There are 27 cubic feet in a yard, and about 80 square feet of 4 thick in a yard. Wasn't much labor involved for us three wimps. The driver laid down a squiggly line of concrete, the two of us who had rubber boots lifted the reinforcing mesh to put it on top of that concrete, and the driver proceeded with filling our form. We screed it off with a 12' 2x6, which might have been work if the driver had grossly overfilled the form, then went to lunch. When we got back, we brushed the surface with an old shop broom on a rope. That slab is in good shape 15 years later, in spite of being a couple feet under water once or twice a year, but some fool did manage to break a small chunk off it by driving a garbage truck over the side and dropping the frame onto the edge of the slab. I bet the tow truck driver didn't enjoy that job. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX '82 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts
Hans Neureiter wrote: Back to the original topic: I had access to a car lift and replaced the leaking pitman shaft seal. Easy 30 min job with the car up there. The bottom of the oilfilter housing is soaked with oil. Could not tell where its coming from. Canister lid, cooler hoses, canister to block gasket. The first fixes itself when you change the filter (unless the lid is warped) The second is a common cause of premature OM617 death. The last can probably remain a slow leak for a long time. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Dieselvolk, My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. I'd appreciate thoughts and input on what the problem is and how to fix it. History: I've only used Mobil 1 oil since purchasing the car about 50k miles ago, when it had about 284k miles It now has 334k miles. About 3 years ago (~20k miles ago) the tick developed after a 450 mile travel day, during which the car ran very hot but did not overheat, due to a long stop-n-go traffic jam on the freeway. Car had increased oil consumption during the trip (used about 1 qt in 500 miles, normally only uses 1 qt per 2000 miles), and the noise began the next morning upon first start. After fussing over the noise for a few days but not really doing anything other than add oil and determine that the noise originates from either the #2 or #3 cylinder valves in the head, the noise largely went away on its own. After that episode, the noise would occasionally come back if the car was exposed to cold weather (i.e. around freezing or lower), but once it was driven the noise would reduce to the point that I really had to listen hard, generally with the hood up, to see if it was still ticking. I tried testing the lifters (hydraulic valve clearance compensating elements) in accordance with the book, and they passed, but that was at a time when the lifter tick noise was reduced. The current engine oil is now 10k miles old. It is Mobil 1 5w-40, and the 5k oil analysis showed only 0.4% soot. I sent in the 10k sample last week, should have results shortly. All previous oil samples were negative for glycol (coolant) and wear metals are pretty normal in my opinion. This past January the noise came back with a vengeance after I drove the car to Baltimore, and then car sat in a freezing parking lot for a couple of weeks. I drove the car home, and since then I've only driven it a few times, but the noise is almost constant. Now it will sometimes be reduced when the engine is cold, but once the car warms up it comes right back. So here's my plan. 1) Warm up the engine and then pull the valve cover and test the lifters again using the book method. If any fail the test, replace them. Inspect the camshaft lobes for wear. 2) Change the oil. 3) Replace the lifters for #2 and #3 on principle (they're noisy). 4) Pull the head and replace the head gasket, assuming a failure at the oil passage between #1 cylinder and timing chain case, allowing oil to flow into the timing chain area and back the sump, which reduces the oil pressure to the head and causes the noise. I like this option least, because I fear finding cracks in the (number 14) head and I'm worried that if I put a cracked head back on, the cracks will worsen and I'll start burning coolant or mixing oil and coolant. Right now the upper radiator hose has normal pressure after resting overnight, and the engine oil analysis looks good, so I don't think I have problems with cracks in the head right now. Thanks for reading through all this! Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 334k miles '95 E300 280k miles '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
I lay good money on the head gasket. I and others have (had) the same problem. Check the video here : http://superturbodiesel.com/std/w124-300d-turbo-om603-ticking-noise-under-valve-t-2299.html The general recommendation from the FInns is to go with the 606 headgasket as a replacement, it will need some modification for the 603 (drill two holes). -Rolf On 03/03/2011 01:42 PM, Max Dillon wrote: Dieselvolk, My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. I'd appreciate thoughts and input on what the problem is and how to fix it. History: I've only used Mobil 1 oil since purchasing the car about 50k miles ago, when it had about 284k miles It now has 334k miles. About 3 years ago (~20k miles ago) the tick developed after a 450 mile travel day, during which the car ran very hot but did not overheat, due to a long stop-n-go traffic jam on the freeway. Car had increased oil consumption during the trip (used about 1 qt in 500 miles, normally only uses 1 qt per 2000 miles), and the noise began the next morning upon first start. After fussing over the noise for a few days but not really doing anything other than add oil and determine that the noise originates from either the #2 or #3 cylinder valves in the head, the noise largely went away on its own. After that episode, the noise would occasionally come back if the car was exposed to cold weather (i.e. around freezing or lower), but once it was driven the noise would reduce to the point that I really had to listen hard, generally with the hood up, to see if it was still ticking. I tried testing the lifters (hydraulic valve clearance compensating elements) in accordance with the book, and they passed, but that was at a time when the lifter tick noise was reduced. The current engine oil is now 10k miles old. It is Mobil 1 5w-40, and the 5k oil analysis showed only 0.4% soot. I sent in the 10k sample last week, should have results shortly. All previous oil samples were negative for glycol (coolant) and wear metals are pretty normal in my opinion. This past January the noise came back with a vengeance after I drove the car to Baltimore, and then car sat in a freezing parking lot for a couple of weeks. I drove the car home, and since then I've only driven it a few times, but the noise is almost constant. Now it will sometimes be reduced when the engine is cold, but once the car warms up it comes right back. So here's my plan. 1) Warm up the engine and then pull the valve cover and test the lifters again using the book method. If any fail the test, replace them. Inspect the camshaft lobes for wear. 2) Change the oil. 3) Replace the lifters for #2 and #3 on principle (they're noisy). 4) Pull the head and replace the head gasket, assuming a failure at the oil passage between #1 cylinder and timing chain case, allowing oil to flow into the timing chain area and back the sump, which reduces the oil pressure to the head and causes the noise. I like this option least, because I fear finding cracks in the (number 14) head and I'm worried that if I put a cracked head back on, the cracks will worsen and I'll start burning coolant or mixing oil and coolant. Right now the upper radiator hose has normal pressure after resting overnight, and the engine oil analysis looks good, so I don't think I have problems with cracks in the head right now. Thanks for reading through all this! Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 334k miles '95 E300 280k miles '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Rolf, Did you have noise narrowed down to #2 and #3 cylinder's valve train in the head? Did you replace your gasket? -Max From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 2:02:18 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix I lay good money on the head gasket. I and others have (had) the same problem. Check the video here : http://superturbodiesel.com/std/w124-300d-turbo-om603-ticking-noise-under-valve-t-2299.html The general recommendation from the FInns is to go with the 606 headgasket as a replacement, it will need some modification for the 603 (drill two holes). -Rolf On 03/03/2011 01:42 PM, Max Dillon wrote: Dieselvolk, My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. I'd appreciate thoughts and input on what the problem is and how to fix it. History: I've only used Mobil 1 oil since purchasing the car about 50k miles ago, when it had about 284k miles It now has 334k miles. About 3 years ago (~20k miles ago) the tick developed after a 450 mile travel day, during which the car ran very hot but did not overheat, due to a long stop-n-go traffic jam on the freeway. Car had increased oil consumption during the trip (used about 1 qt in 500 miles, normally only uses 1 qt per 2000 miles), and the noise began the next morning upon first start. After fussing over the noise for a few days but not really doing anything other than add oil and determine that the noise originates from either the #2 or #3 cylinder valves in the head, the noise largely went away on its own. After that episode, the noise would occasionally come back if the car was exposed to cold weather (i.e. around freezing or lower), but once it was driven the noise would reduce to the point that I really had to listen hard, generally with the hood up, to see if it was still ticking. I tried testing the lifters (hydraulic valve clearance compensating elements) in accordance with the book, and they passed, but that was at a time when the lifter tick noise was reduced. The current engine oil is now 10k miles old. It is Mobil 1 5w-40, and the 5k oil analysis showed only 0.4% soot. I sent in the 10k sample last week, should have results shortly. All previous oil samples were negative for glycol (coolant) and wear metals are pretty normal in my opinion. This past January the noise came back with a vengeance after I drove the car to Baltimore, and then car sat in a freezing parking lot for a couple of weeks. I drove the car home, and since then I've only driven it a few times, but the noise is almost constant. Now it will sometimes be reduced when the engine is cold, but once the car warms up it comes right back. So here's my plan. 1) Warm up the engine and then pull the valve cover and test the lifters again using the book method. If any fail the test, replace them. Inspect the camshaft lobes for wear. 2) Change the oil. 3) Replace the lifters for #2 and #3 on principle (they're noisy). 4) Pull the head and replace the head gasket, assuming a failure at the oil passage between #1 cylinder and timing chain case, allowing oil to flow into the timing chain area and back the sump, which reduces the oil pressure to the head and causes the noise. I like this option least, because I fear finding cracks in the (number 14) head and I'm worried that if I put a cracked head back on, the cracks will worsen and I'll start burning coolant or mixing oil and coolant. Right now the upper radiator hose has normal pressure after resting overnight, and the engine oil analysis looks good, so I don't think I have problems with cracks in the head right now. Thanks for reading through all this! Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 334k miles '95 E300 280k miles '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. Max, is there any way you can post an audio file to the list? My 603 car has occasionally made clicky noises that seem to be coming from the vicinity of the valve cover, and I always wonder if they qualify as valve tick (of course they never happen when my indy or anyone else is around to hear). It would be nice to hear someone else's engine for corroboration. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
Curt Raymond wrote: Interesting. You got yours to work with the long rod though? Mine works its just that the clutch pedal is obnoxiously high. The pedal worked fine with a short-rod piston an a long rod - but would not bleed and it probably would not work long term 'cause no fluid could get past the piston. The opposite should do better. A short rod and a long-rod piston. This should result in clutch that engages with the petal nearly at the top of it's travel. Sounds like yours, I think. I do remember that the short rod which got thrown away didn't snap and at first I thought that was part of my problem. On mine, the _long_ rod has no snap and the short one does. Could this be an ATE/Bendix like issue? Two suppliers with different details but the set is interchangeable? Do you still have your short rod? Could I borrow it? It'd be MUCH easier to make a short rod correctly the first time (its a PITA getting it in there) if I had one to match it up to. But I'm beginning to think you need the _long_ rod. Yeah, I do still have it. It's on the car. :) I think. I usually take notes when I do projects like this. But I guess I didn't do a thorough enough job. So I'm mentally reconstructing the process. The clutch in the '80 was leaking. I pulled it out, leaving the rod in place. The cylinder was in pretty rough shape, so I went to the parts cars. The '81 looked good from the outside, so I pulled it out - again leaving the rod. That cylinder cleaned up well. I honed the bore, cleaned out the junk, and put in in the '80. I was unable to bleed it, though. The system will bleed only if the piston is at the top of it's travel. So I'm concluding I must have had a long rod on a short-rod piston, thus preventing the piston from moving to the top. I then installed the rod from the '81 parts car and then the circuit bled fine. So, my spare is a matched pair - a kinda grudge cylinder and a long rod with no ball. I remember encountering a rod with a ball that snapped into a socket on the piston. Since that is _not_ the one in the cardboard box, it must be the one on the car. :) The dates to not match up with what EPC and your experience suggest - so maybe the clutch I took out of the '80 wasn't original. --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Is the list running slow? I responded in an email On 03/03/2011 02:15 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote: On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. Max, is there any way you can post an audio file to the list? My 603 car has occasionally made clicky noises that seem to be coming from the vicinity of the valve cover, and I always wonder if they qualify as valve tick (of course they never happen when my indy or anyone else is around to hear). It would be nice to hear someone else's engine for corroboration. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Alex, I have the technology to record an MP3, I guess it would be up to Kaleb to approve it after I send it? Rolf's reply has before and after video, have you listened to that? When my tick was quiet, no one but I could hear it. I need to get a mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight. -Max From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 2:15:49 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. Max, is there any way you can post an audio file to the list? My 603 car has occasionally made clicky noises that seem to be coming from the vicinity of the valve cover, and I always wonder if they qualify as valve tick (of course they never happen when my indy or anyone else is around to hear). It would be nice to hear someone else's engine for corroboration. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Just use a 1 heater hose (or some similar size) long enough to go to the spot and your ear. --R On 3/3/2011 2:38 PM, Max Dillon wrote: When my tick was quiet, no one but I could hear it. I need to get a mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight. -Max ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
*sigh* this is sounding so much more complicated than it seems like it ought to me. I think what I need now is the measurement off your existing, not-in-the-car rod since it sounds like the opposite of what I have. The one in my car now is a matched set in that it came from my '83 which is where I guess I'm confused now. The slave cylinders are not the same between the two cars, what about the pedal assembly? Can I move the pedal from the '83 to the '78? *Frustrated* -Curt Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 13:14:23 -0600 From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod Message-ID: 20110303131423.bc729542.fmi...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Curt Raymond wrote: Interesting. You got yours to work with the long rod though? Mine works its just that the clutch pedal is obnoxiously high. The pedal worked fine with a short-rod piston an a long rod - but would not bleed and it probably would not work long term 'cause no fluid could get past the piston. The opposite should do better. A short rod and a long-rod piston. This should result in clutch that engages with the petal nearly at the top of it's travel. Sounds like yours, I think. I do remember that the short rod which got thrown away didn't snap and at first I thought that was part of my problem. On mine, the _long_ rod has no snap and the short one does. Could this be an ATE/Bendix like issue? Two suppliers with different details but the set is interchangeable? Do you still have your short rod? Could I borrow it? It'd be MUCH easier to make a short rod correctly the first time (its a PITA getting it in there) if I had one to match it up to. But I'm beginning to think you need the _long_ rod. Yeah, I do still have it. It's on the car. :) I think. I usually take notes when I do projects like this. But I guess I didn't do a thorough enough job. So I'm mentally reconstructing the process. The clutch in the '80 was leaking. I pulled it out, leaving the rod in place. The cylinder was in pretty rough shape, so I went to the parts cars. The '81 looked good from the outside, so I pulled it out - again leaving the rod. That cylinder cleaned up well. I honed the bore, cleaned out the junk, and put in in the '80. I was unable to bleed it, though. The system will bleed only if the piston is at the top of it's travel. So I'm concluding I must have had a long rod on a short-rod piston, thus preventing the piston from moving to the top. I then installed the rod from the '81 parts car and then the circuit bled fine. So, my spare is a matched pair - a kinda grudge cylinder and a long rod with no ball. I remember encountering a rod with a ball that snapped into a socket on the piston. Since that is _not_ the one in the cardboard box, it must be the one on the car. :) The dates to not match up with what EPC and your experience suggest - so maybe the clutch I took out of the '80 wasn't original. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
First, do you have good o-rings on the center bolt? If not, chances are you will have much less noise after you replace them. However, a new head gasket (and new head bolts) isn't a bad idea if you don't know when the last one was done -- they DO leak, and a low compression injector knock sounds a lot like a bad tappet... A compression test is the cheap and cheerful way to decided -- if you have a few low but not bad cylinders, especially if they are adjacent, suspect a bad gasket. Note that a failure at the cross passage in front of #1 will cause excessive oil consumption and the scary possibliity of oil hydrolocking the cylinder, with attendant thrashed rods and crank. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
Curt, call me in the morning. Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld -Original Message- From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 15:25:37 To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod *sigh* this is sounding so much more complicated than it seems like it ought to me. I think what I need now is the measurement off your existing, not-in-the-car rod since it sounds like the opposite of what I have. The one in my car now is a matched set in that it came from my '83 which is where I guess I'm confused now. The slave cylinders are not the same between the two cars, what about the pedal assembly? Can I move the pedal from the '83 to the '78? *Frustrated* -Curt Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 13:14:23 -0600 From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod Message-ID: 20110303131423.bc729542.fmi...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Curt Raymond wrote: Interesting. You got yours to work with the long rod though? Mine works its just that the clutch pedal is obnoxiously high. The pedal worked fine with a short-rod piston an a long rod - but would not bleed and it probably would not work long term 'cause no fluid could get past the piston. The opposite should do better. A short rod and a long-rod piston. This should result in clutch that engages with the petal nearly at the top of it's travel. Sounds like yours, I think. I do remember that the short rod which got thrown away didn't snap and at first I thought that was part of my problem. On mine, the_long_ rod has no snap and the short one does. Could this be an ATE/Bendix like issue? Two suppliers with different details but the set is interchangeable? Do you still have your short rod? Could I borrow it? It'd be MUCH easier to make a short rod correctly the first time (its a PITA getting it in there) if I had one to match it up to. But I'm beginning to think you need the_long_ rod. Yeah, I do still have it. It's on the car. :) I think. I usually take notes when I do projects like this. But I guess I didn't do a thorough enough job. So I'm mentally reconstructing the process. The clutch in the '80 was leaking. I pulled it out, leaving the rod in place. The cylinder was in pretty rough shape, so I went to the parts cars. The '81 looked good from the outside, so I pulled it out - again leaving the rod. That cylinder cleaned up well. I honed the bore, cleaned out the junk, and put in in the '80. I was unable to bleed it, though. The system will bleed only if the piston is at the top of it's travel. So I'm concluding I must have had a long rod on a short-rod piston, thus preventing the piston from moving to the top. I then installed the rod from the '81 parts car and then the circuit bled fine. So, my spare is a matched pair - a kinda grudge cylinder and a long rod with no ball. I remember encountering a rod with a ball that snapped into a socket on the piston. Since that is _not_ the one in the cardboard box, it must be the one on the car. :) The dates to not match up with what EPC and your experience suggest - so maybe the clutch I took out of the '80 wasn't original. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
Curt wrote: *Frustrated* We did master cylinder 240D in Fall '09 - it was a pain since the first cylinder would not allow bleed. The dealer finally came up with the proper one and for less money. Call Rusty and see what he can do. Also, you can call the Classic Center and they can provide proper part number. They supplied the proper part number based on euro VIN for the oddball slave we replaced this past Fall. It was odd, in that the mount holes were offset, not in line with the rod. mao ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
