[MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Jim Cathey

Welding day!  Yesterday I got back the $50 gas-less Hobart welder that
the neighbors had borrowed, so I whacked away a bit at the car's rust
problem.  I filled in one pinhole up by the driver's headlight, and
then chopped away at the hole in the side by the RR passenger's feet.
I removed the trim strip and cut away a bunch of the ratty rusted-out
rocker, the back section I hadn't addressed last time, and
wire-brushed what I could.  What a mess!  I removed the seat belt from
the anchor, and noted that the remaining metal was so loose back there
that in an accident it is doubtful that the belt would have held.  Not
good!  I cut out the rusty part, just above the 'waterline', and
started welding in new sheet metal strips.  Some four or five hours
later I'd finished closing up the inside wall, it is one of the
worse-looking welding jobs ever.  (I have a real problem with burning
through, then I circle the hole and fill it back in.  Often the hole
spreads quite a bit before I get it back under control.)  I
wire-brushed everything, in the process I managed to snag the loose
strings of the ruined side carpet and rip loose a big chunk of the
carpet that wound itself around the brush spindle.  Another mess!
Anyway, with the wall cleaned off I rattle-canned some primer on
there, inside and out, then some gray paint.  This phase should cure
the interior noise problem, but I have a lot left to do on the
outside.  I used anti-seize on the seat belt anchor when I put it
back.

When I jacked the car up I noticed that the RR rubber brake line is
weeping.  I need a new one, but the rust back there is bad enough that
I imagine that removing the old one will be a real treat.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Wow, quite a chore!

I'd say hit the rusty brake section with the good old PB or acetone/ATF
mixture twice a day for ~ 3 days running, then use some good 6 point tubing
wrenches.

They pay for themselves very quick if you don't have a set, and autozombie
or similar might have them on loan for a deposit.

I think HF has a set  as well.

Walt
On Apr 4, 2011 2:30 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 Welding day! Yesterday I got back the $50 gas-less Hobart welder that
 the neighbors had borrowed, so I whacked away a bit at the car's rust
 problem. I filled in one pinhole up by the driver's headlight, and
 then chopped away at the hole in the side by the RR passenger's feet.
 I removed the trim strip and cut away a bunch of the ratty rusted-out
 rocker, the back section I hadn't addressed last time, and
 wire-brushed what I could. What a mess! I removed the seat belt from
 the anchor, and noted that the remaining metal was so loose back there
 that in an accident it is doubtful that the belt would have held. Not
 good! I cut out the rusty part, just above the 'waterline', and
 started welding in new sheet metal strips. Some four or five hours
 later I'd finished closing up the inside wall, it is one of the
 worse-looking welding jobs ever. (I have a real problem with burning
 through, then I circle the hole and fill it back in. Often the hole
 spreads quite a bit before I get it back under control.) I
 wire-brushed everything, in the process I managed to snag the loose
 strings of the ruined side carpet and rip loose a big chunk of the
 carpet that wound itself around the brush spindle. Another mess!
 Anyway, with the wall cleaned off I rattle-canned some primer on
 there, inside and out, then some gray paint. This phase should cure
 the interior noise problem, but I have a lot left to do on the
 outside. I used anti-seize on the seat belt anchor when I put it
 back.

 When I jacked the car up I noticed that the RR rubber brake line is
 weeping. I need a new one, but the rust back there is bad enough that
 I imagine that removing the old one will be a real treat.

 -- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Rick Knoble
Walt wrote:

 I'd say hit the rusty brake section with the good old PB or acetone/ATF
 mixture twice a day for ~ 3 days running, then use some good 6 point tubing
 wrenches.

Also, take some emory cloth or sand paper and sand the rust off of the brake 
line at the fitting. That will help the penetrant get to where it needs to be 
and may help the line from being seized to the fitting and twisting in two when 
you loosen it. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Chicken Wagon visibility

2011-04-04 Thread Max Dillon
My new glass in the '95 is Pilkington, and I'm quite pleased with it.  No 
visible defects (ripples or waves) that I can detect.

The only advice I can offer is to make sure the glass guy does a really good 
job 
of re-mediating any rust that is found in the frame, and repairing any damage 
to 
the paint on the frame prior to installing the new glass.  It would be really 
nice to be present for all steps, and have it done at your house so you have 
the 
option of pushing the car under cover from the weather so you can properly 
repair any rust that the glass guy can't deal with.

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles (Off with the head!)
'95 E300 283k miles (daily driving duties)
'73 Balboa 20 (High  dry until the head is back on)
Charleston SC





From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, April 1, 2011 9:45:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Chicken Wagon visibility

 Dude, you're asking if ANY new glass is OK on a $400 car?  And it will make 
your wife happy, no matter what it is, as long as it has no pits and cracks?

It's the ripples and waves that I want to avoid.  Heard enough
horror stories, don't want to end up there.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] Safety first, safety last, safety always

2011-04-04 Thread toms cat1

 
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/htm...rfatality.html


March 27, 2011 Bremerton WA.

Post this everywhere. This poor guy evidently didn't get the message, and now 
he never will.

Sad.

Stay safe, fellas. It has happened again. 
 
Tom Schuch
SE Connecticut
1975 W115 300D
and all those BMWs
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Re: [MBZ] Safety first, safety last, safety always

2011-04-04 Thread Mitch Haley
Hey Tom, you pasted an abbreviated link. Care to go back there and grab the full 
link from the address window?


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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Jim Cathey

I'd say hit the rusty brake section with the good old PB or acetone/ATF
mixture twice a day for ~ 3 days running, then use some good 6 point 
tubing

wrenches.


Yeah, it's certainly the first step.  I have flare wrenches, both
crow's-foot and regular.  HF, but they work well enough.

My money's going to be on the red heat, though.  It's amazing
what that can do for rust when you don't care about what happens
to the rubber line.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Chicken Wagon visibility

2011-04-04 Thread Jim Cathey

It would be really nice to be present for all steps,


Yes, but probably not going to happen.  I also can't
seem to find my windshield gasket.  It's in the safe
place...

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] M119 power steering pump

2011-04-04 Thread Craig
On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 21:24:55 -0500 Thomas Savage tesav...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I was pretty hesitant after reading Craig's travails with his pump, but 
 in the 140's larger engine compartment the job was pretty easy once I 
 found the Hidden Bolt.

Congratulations! I'm glad it was easier.


 Now to clean up the mess the old one left under the hood.

I wish you success with that one ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Brake fluid is flamable...
I was going to say hit it with heat till  I remembered that.

Walt
On Apr 4, 2011 9:27 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 I'd say hit the rusty brake section with the good old PB or acetone/ATF
 mixture twice a day for ~ 3 days running, then use some good 6 point
 tubing
 wrenches.

 Yeah, it's certainly the first step. I have flare wrenches, both
 crow's-foot and regular. HF, but they work well enough.

 My money's going to be on the red heat, though. It's amazing
 what that can do for rust when you don't care about what happens
 to the rubber line.

 -- Jim



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[MBZ] OT: NeXT hardware lot for sale, Portland OR

2011-04-04 Thread Alex Chamberlain
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/sys/2295587303.html

Not my post, no affiliation, etc.  I know some people here are into
this stuff, and I wouldn't mind having one myself.  (Though a
practical voice in the back of my head keeps saying that I should just
get a throwaway cheapo PC and put Linux on it with an
imitation-NeXTstep window manager, maybe even build a PC inside a
broken Cube.)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OT: NeXT hardware lot for sale, Portland OR

2011-04-04 Thread Allan Streib
They are very cool machines, interesting from a historical standpoint if you 
want to see where Mac OSX came from, but from a practical standpoint not very 
useful today.  

Allan


On Mon, 04 Apr 2011 06:43 -0700, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com 
wrote:
 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/sys/2295587303.html
 
 Not my post, no affiliation, etc.  I know some people here are into
 this stuff, and I wouldn't mind having one myself.  (Though a
 practical voice in the back of my head keeps saying that I should just
 get a throwaway cheapo PC and put Linux on it with an
 imitation-NeXTstep window manager, maybe even build a PC inside a
 broken Cube.)
 
 Alex
 
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[MBZ] OT Security screws

2011-04-04 Thread Rich Thomas

http://www.ifixit.com/blog/blog/2011/04/01/iphone-4-oppression-kit/

--R

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Re: [MBZ] (OT BMW)Hello from the land of the long white cloud

2011-04-04 Thread Randy Bennell

Let us hope, as well, that the wind is not blowing in directly from Japan.

Randy

On 02/04/2011 9:32 PM, OK Don wrote:

Be careful of what you ask for ---

How are the natives fairing in the recovery efforts?

On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 5:49 PM, Hendrik and Fayheni...@ozemail.com.auwrote:



Hendrik
who is sitting in McJunkfood, using their free wifi and still waiting for
his free shake

--






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[MBZ] OT - F150 with a dose of MB too

2011-04-04 Thread Randy Bennell
My truck has developed an issue that requires me to treat it a bit like 
my 300D - I have to open the hood up every time I leave it. With the 
car, it is a vacuum problem that I have been ignoring that requires me 
to open the hood and push down on the stop lever in order to get the 
engine to stop.


As of Friday morning, my 02 Supercrew has developed an electrical issue 
that requires me to disconnect the battery. When I turn the key off, it 
starts the hvac fan on high and the gauges go down rather than up. A 
relay under the dash activates on and off etc. A bit of looking on a 
Ford forum indicates it may be related to a leaking windshield allowing 
water to drip onto a fuse block and module under the dash. I sort of 
need a windshield in any event - several stone chips and a bit of 
sandblasting - so it is going to get a new one on Wednesday morning. I 
hope that solves the problem without my having to tear into it further 
but I am not holding my breath.


Anyone been there and done that with one of the 97-03 Fords?

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Randy Bennell
The one thing that I would suggest is that you cut the rubber line 
before heating the fittings. If you don't the pressure may well blow the 
line off. I expect you know or will figure out how I know that.


Randy

On 04/04/2011 8:38 AM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Brake fluid is flamable...
I was going to say hit it with heat till  I remembered that.

Walt
On Apr 4, 2011 9:27 AM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net  wrote:

I'd say hit the rusty brake section with the good old PB or acetone/ATF
mixture twice a day for ~ 3 days running, then use some good 6 point
tubing
wrenches.

Yeah, it's certainly the first step. I have flare wrenches, both
crow's-foot and regular. HF, but they work well enough.

My money's going to be on the red heat, though. It's amazing
what that can do for rust when you don't care about what happens
to the rubber line.

-- Jim






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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap 'car payment'

2011-04-04 Thread Mitch Haley

Randy Bennell wrote:
The one thing that I would suggest is that you cut the rubber line 
before heating the fittings. If you don't the pressure may well blow the 
line off. I expect you know or will figure out how I know that.


That way you only need one line wrench, you can put a socket on the hose fitting 
after removing the rubber.


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Re: [MBZ] I have found a problem with following the tracks of awealthy owner (Low profile tires)

2011-04-04 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 4:17 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 We've spent 90 years or so trying to put plenty of cushion (rubber and
 air) between the passenger cabin and the road surface; how can so many for
 the last few years forget or ignore all of that knowledge and experience
 in the name of a ridiculous fashion/fad?


Hear, hear!  It's especially disheartening to see luxury cars now
coming with 17, sometimes even 18 or 19, wheels as standard
fitment.  I recognize that, nowadays, cars, especially expensive ones,
generally have larger brakes, and that the size of the discs dictates
a minimum wheel size, but that isn't the whole story; part of the
reason why a Sport Package W212 comes with 18s is just fashion, as
Wilton says.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that M-B engineers who came up
with the multilink rear suspension for the 201 and 124 chassis
considered the wheel/tire combo as an integral part of the whole when
designing the system---hence why those cars, especially the 124, are
so sensitive to what tires you put on them, and why the 500E
suspension was reworked to handle the fat 16s it came with (it's not
just a 300E suspension with stiffer springs and dampers).   It seems
like common sense to me that the increased firmness of the wheel/tire
combo must mean compromises are made elsewhere in the suspension of
the newer cars to soften the ride.  In my limited experience riding in
late-model cars from several manufacturers with stock low-profile
tires, the ride is not as good (compared to, say, a benchmark car like
a long-wheelbase 126), and I doubt one could tell any difference in
handling anywhere but an autocross course.  It's a lose-lose design
decision.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] I have found a problem with following the tracks of awealthy owner (Low profile tires)

2011-04-04 Thread Bill Ringgold
My concern is not so much with the 18 rims, which I have been told were a
delivery choice for the S420 - or possibly for the S600 which this guy was
trying to make it look like. My concern is with the size of the tire on the
rim.  I'll have a chat with the folks at the tire store in a day or so when
they install my new/used 225/40's.
Bill R

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 1:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I have found a problem with following the tracks of
awealthy owner (Low profile tires)

On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 4:17 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 We've spent 90 years or so trying to put plenty of cushion (rubber and
 air) between the passenger cabin and the road surface; how can so many for
 the last few years forget or ignore all of that knowledge and experience
 in the name of a ridiculous fashion/fad?


Hear, hear!  It's especially disheartening to see luxury cars now
coming with 17, sometimes even 18 or 19, wheels as standard
fitment.  I recognize that, nowadays, cars, especially expensive ones,
generally have larger brakes, and that the size of the discs dictates
a minimum wheel size, but that isn't the whole story; part of the
reason why a Sport Package W212 comes with 18s is just fashion, as
Wilton says.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that M-B engineers who came up
with the multilink rear suspension for the 201 and 124 chassis
considered the wheel/tire combo as an integral part of the whole when
designing the system---hence why those cars, especially the 124, are
so sensitive to what tires you put on them, and why the 500E
suspension was reworked to handle the fat 16s it came with (it's not
just a 300E suspension with stiffer springs and dampers).   It seems
like common sense to me that the increased firmness of the wheel/tire
combo must mean compromises are made elsewhere in the suspension of
the newer cars to soften the ride.  In my limited experience riding in
late-model cars from several manufacturers with stock low-profile
tires, the ride is not as good (compared to, say, a benchmark car like
a long-wheelbase 126), and I doubt one could tell any difference in
handling anywhere but an autocross course.  It's a lose-lose design
decision.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Safety first, safety last, safety always

2011-04-04 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 5:18 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Hey Tom, you pasted an abbreviated link. Care to go back there and grab the
 full link from the address window?


A little detective work on the Seattle Times site turns this up:
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/theblotter/2014617934_east_bremerton_man_crushed_whi.html

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] E430 cat rattle

2011-04-04 Thread Randy Bennell
Is there an O2 sensor after the cat? I hear there are units available 
that will fake the signal from the O2 sensor if you clear out the cat 
but will that work on an MB?


Does an MB expect the same signal from the O2 sensor that a Chevy does? 
Anyone know?


Randy

On 02/04/2011 9:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I have had this annoying rattle on the 99 E430 for a little bit when 
at idle either parked or in gear.  Comes and goes.  I figured it was 
the motor mounts.  Replaced them today, they were shot.  Idles much 
more smooth but I still have the annoying rattle.  I traced it down to 
something rattling around inside the right cat converter.  It can get 
to rattling just right to where it almost sounds like a rod knocking 
or something.  Anyway, what to do about this?  I see rusty wants about 
$560 for the front exhaust section that includes the cat.  I sure dont 
think I want to spend that.  Maybe I should pull it down, cut a u 
shape flap in the top of it and clean  (hollow) it out and have it 
welded back.  Any other ideas or a source for cheap exhaust parts?





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Re: [MBZ] E430 cat rattle

2011-04-04 Thread E M
If you have the gear to cut open the cat, and weld it back together again,
provided the tin is in good enough shape, I believe you can buy the internal
cat material by the yard.  I don't know the price, and I'm sure it's not
cheap, but probably cheaper than buying a new factory cat.  I knew a guy
who used to make custom systems for porsches, and he offered cats too.  He
was the one who told me the material was available by the yard, or meter as
the case may be.

Or, just pluck one from the bone yard.  The newer cats last a lot longer
than the old ones, and there is no performance benefit to gutting a modern
cat these days.

Ed
300E

On 4 April 2011 16:09, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 Is there an O2 sensor after the cat? I hear there are units available that
 will fake the signal from the O2 sensor if you clear out the cat but will
 that work on an MB?

 Does an MB expect the same signal from the O2 sensor that a Chevy does?
 Anyone know?

 Randy

 On 02/04/2011 9:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 I have had this annoying rattle on the 99 E430 for a little bit when at
 idle either parked or in gear.  Comes and goes.  I figured it was the motor
 mounts.  Replaced them today, they were shot.  Idles much more smooth but I
 still have the annoying rattle.  I traced it down to something rattling
 around inside the right cat converter.  It can get to rattling just right to
 where it almost sounds like a rod knocking or something.  Anyway, what to do
 about this?  I see rusty wants about $560 for the front exhaust section that
 includes the cat.  I sure dont think I want to spend that.  Maybe I should
 pull it down, cut a u shape flap in the top of it and clean  (hollow) it out
 and have it welded back.  Any other ideas or a source for cheap exhaust
 parts?



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Re: [MBZ] Chicken Wagon visibility

2011-04-04 Thread Curt Raymond
If it were mine it'd be left on a heater somewhere so it'd be all dried and 
cracked by now...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 06:38:46 -0700
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Chicken Wagon visibility
Message-ID: dd581073-5ec0-11e0-80e9-000502d9a...@windwireless.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 It would be really nice to be present for all steps,

Yes, but probably not going to happen.  I also can't
seem to find my windshield gasket.  It's in the safe
place...

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] E430 cat rattle

2011-04-04 Thread Rich Thomas
Those things go for big money, they have platinum in them.  In Houston 
there was a thriving theft industry for the things.  Come out in the 
morning, start your car, sounds like an old stock car.  Look under, cat 
cut off.  They would hit a whole neighborhood.


--R

On 4/4/2011 4:21 PM, E M wrote:

If you have the gear to cut open the cat, and weld it back together again,
provided the tin is in good enough shape, I believe you can buy the internal
cat material by the yard.  I don't know the price, and I'm sure it's not
cheap, but probably cheaper than buying a new factory cat.  I knew a guy
who used to make custom systems for porsches, and he offered cats too.  He
was the one who told me the material was available by the yard, or meter as
the case may be.

Or, just pluck one from the bone yard.  The newer cats last a lot longer
than the old ones, and there is no performance benefit to gutting a modern
cat these days.

Ed
300E

On 4 April 2011 16:09, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:


Is there an O2 sensor after the cat? I hear there are units available that
will fake the signal from the O2 sensor if you clear out the cat but will
that work on an MB?

Does an MB expect the same signal from the O2 sensor that a Chevy does?
Anyone know?

Randy

On 02/04/2011 9:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


I have had this annoying rattle on the 99 E430 for a little bit when at
idle either parked or in gear.  Comes and goes.  I figured it was the motor
mounts.  Replaced them today, they were shot.  Idles much more smooth but I
still have the annoying rattle.  I traced it down to something rattling
around inside the right cat converter.  It can get to rattling just right to
where it almost sounds like a rod knocking or something.  Anyway, what to do
about this?  I see rusty wants about $560 for the front exhaust section that
includes the cat.  I sure dont think I want to spend that.  Maybe I should
pull it down, cut a u shape flap in the top of it and clean  (hollow) it out
and have it welded back.  Any other ideas or a source for cheap exhaust
parts?



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Re: [MBZ] OT Security screws

2011-04-04 Thread LWB250
These guys are good, but they are taking a drubbing in the Mac community for 
whipping everyone into a frenzy about a non-issue.

Apple has used proprietary fasteners in various forms for years.  These idiots 
are making it out like it's a vendetta to keep consumers out of products they 
own as a ploy for iFixit to sell the drivers and bits for stupidly inflated 
prices.

MacDan

--- On Mon, 4/4/11, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
 Subject: [MBZ] OT Security screws
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Monday, April 4, 2011, 10:45 AM
 http://www.ifixit.com/blog/blog/2011/04/01/iphone-4-oppression-kit/
 
 --R
 
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Re: [MBZ] E430 cat rattle

2011-04-04 Thread E M
Are they still using platinum?  I read several years back, Ford was working
on a substitute for platinum in cats.  When the news got out, the platinum
market bombed.

Ed
300E

On 4 April 2011 16:51, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.netwrote:

 Those things go for big money, they have platinum in them.  In Houston
 there was a thriving theft industry for the things.  Come out in the
 morning, start your car, sounds like an old stock car.  Look under, cat cut
 off.  They would hit a whole neighborhood.

 --R


 On 4/4/2011 4:21 PM, E M wrote:

 If you have the gear to cut open the cat, and weld it back together again,
 provided the tin is in good enough shape, I believe you can buy the
 internal
 cat material by the yard.  I don't know the price, and I'm sure it's not
 cheap, but probably cheaper than buying a new factory cat.  I knew a guy
 who used to make custom systems for porsches, and he offered cats too.  He
 was the one who told me the material was available by the yard, or meter
 as
 the case may be.

 Or, just pluck one from the bone yard.  The newer cats last a lot longer
 than the old ones, and there is no performance benefit to gutting a modern
 cat these days.

 Ed
 300E

 On 4 April 2011 16:09, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:

  Is there an O2 sensor after the cat? I hear there are units available
 that
 will fake the signal from the O2 sensor if you clear out the cat but will
 that work on an MB?

 Does an MB expect the same signal from the O2 sensor that a Chevy does?
 Anyone know?

 Randy

 On 02/04/2011 9:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

  I have had this annoying rattle on the 99 E430 for a little bit when at
 idle either parked or in gear.  Comes and goes.  I figured it was the
 motor
 mounts.  Replaced them today, they were shot.  Idles much more smooth
 but I
 still have the annoying rattle.  I traced it down to something rattling
 around inside the right cat converter.  It can get to rattling just
 right to
 where it almost sounds like a rod knocking or something.  Anyway, what
 to do
 about this?  I see rusty wants about $560 for the front exhaust section
 that
 includes the cat.  I sure dont think I want to spend that.  Maybe I
 should
 pull it down, cut a u shape flap in the top of it and clean  (hollow) it
 out
 and have it welded back.  Any other ideas or a source for cheap exhaust
 parts?


  ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] E430 cat rattle

2011-04-04 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I will have to check and see. I do not remember seeing another 02 
sensor after the cat but there might be.  I think this thing does 
have 4 sensors


On 4/4/2011 3:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Is there an O2 sensor after the cat? I hear there are units 
available that will fake the signal from the O2 sensor if you 
clear out the cat but will that work on an MB?


Does an MB expect the same signal from the O2 sensor that a 
Chevy does? Anyone know?


Randy

On 02/04/2011 9:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I have had this annoying rattle on the 99 E430 for a little bit 
when at idle either parked or in gear.  Comes and goes.  I 
figured it was the motor mounts.  Replaced them today, they 
were shot.  Idles much more smooth but I still have the 
annoying rattle.  I traced it down to something rattling around 
inside the right cat converter.  It can get to rattling just 
right to where it almost sounds like a rod knocking or 
something.  Anyway, what to do about this?  I see rusty wants 
about $560 for the front exhaust section that includes the 
cat.  I sure dont think I want to spend that.  Maybe I should 
pull it down, cut a u shape flap in the top of it and clean  
(hollow) it out and have it welded back.  Any other ideas or a 
source for cheap exhaust parts?





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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3550 - Release Date: 
04/04/11





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320, 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD,
 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com



-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3550 - Release Date: 04/04/11


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[MBZ] OT: Good Tsunami Videos

2011-04-04 Thread Gerry Archer
This is the most complete and awe inspiring collection of videos of the 
tsunami  made by the Japanese from a helicopter.  For the Japanese hit by 
the wave, this was truly their
Armageddon.  This long video will stop periodically, and then resume; with 
its progress being

measured by the moving black line at the bottom of the screen.
If the link is broken, it can be pasted to a search engine.
Gerry

http://freevideocoding.com/flvplayer.swf?file=http://flash.vx.roo.com/streamingVX/63056/1458/20110311_japan_wave_successions_sky_1000k.mp4autostart=true 



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[MBZ] Fw: Testing an airbag

2011-04-04 Thread Gerry Archer


While lounging about the local shop, these Russians want to see what 
happens

when an airbag discharges.
Gerry 
-- next part --

A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: TestAirbagenRussie.WMV
Type: video/x-ms-wmv
Size: 3681105 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: 
http://mail.okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20110404/0bb3bdd2/attachment.wmv
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: Testing an airbag

2011-04-04 Thread buymbparts
I have a customer that just tested his airbag in a 1990 560SEC. He hit a van 
that ran a red light. He was doing 60. Broke his sternum and 4 ribs. The airbag 
failed, go figure.


Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 17:58:56 
To: Undisclosed-Recipient
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Fw: Testing an airbag


 While lounging about the local shop, these Russians want to see what 
happens
when an airbag discharges.
Gerry 
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: TestAirbagenRussie.WMV
Type: video/x-ms-wmv
Size: 3681105 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: 
http://mail.okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20110404/0bb3bdd2/attachment.wmv
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[MBZ] Serpentine Belt RR W124 91 300D 2.5T

2011-04-04 Thread Larry T


Howdy - 

Thx again for all the help in my problem with my sluggish 300D - I wish I'd ch 
anged the main fuel filter 1st! 



Anyway - about the subject -my current Belt has about 80,000 miles on it and is 
showing lateral cracks across the ribbing.  I rec'd a new one from Rusty last 
week and need to start planning the job. 



I read the MB WSM procedure and was wondering if I need to remove the fan 
shroud (or lay it back out of the way as much as possible) and removing the fan 
assy? 



I had all that stuff out last time because of the other things I was doing but 
don't need to remove all that stuff this time.  



What should I do? 



TIA 

LarryT 

91 300D 







Let your engine tell you how healthy it is!   Visit www.youroil.net   For 
Inexpensive Oil Test Kits! 




Let your engine tell you how healthy it is!   Visit www.youroil.net   For 
Inexpensive Oil Test Kits! 
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Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt RR W124 91 300D 2.5T

2011-04-04 Thread OK Don
You can thread the belt around the fan blades, between the bald tips and
shroud. It takes a few minutes to figure out where, but it wasn't that hard.


On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 9:35 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:



 Howdy -

 Thx again for all the help in my problem with my sluggish 300D - I wish I'd
 ch anged the main fuel filter 1st!



 Anyway - about the subject -my current Belt has about 80,000 miles on it
 and is showing lateral cracks across the ribbing.  I rec'd a new one from
 Rusty last week and need to start planning the job.



 I read the MB WSM procedure and was wondering if I need to remove the fan
 shroud (or lay it back out of the way as much as possible) and removing the
 fan assy?



 I had all that stuff out last time because of the other things I was doing
 but don't need to remove all that stuff this time.



 What should I do?



 TIA

 LarryT

 91 300D




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Good Tsunami Videos

2011-04-04 Thread andrew strasfogel
I'm speechless at the devastation.  Nothing like it in my lifetime (60
years).

On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 5:49 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.comwrote:

 This is the most complete and awe inspiring collection of videos of the
 tsunami  made by the Japanese from a helicopter.  For the Japanese hit by
 the wave, this was truly their
 Armageddon.  This long video will stop periodically, and then resume; with
 its progress being
 measured by the moving black line at the bottom of the screen.
 If the link is broken, it can be pasted to a search engine.
 Gerry


 http://freevideocoding.com/flvplayer.swf?file=http://flash.vx.roo.com/streamingVX/63056/1458/20110311_japan_wave_successions_sky_1000k.mp4autostart=true

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Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt RR W124 91 300D 2.5T

2011-04-04 Thread Dieselhead
Yes, pull the shroud clips and pick it up to free the bottom tabs. 
Then you can move it around to aid threading the belt over the fan 
and around the pulleys.


If you have not done so recently, I'd also recommend checking the 
bearings on the idler arm first.  Then if you need to change it too, 
you may as well do the belt then, because you will need the fan and 
shroud out then.  If the bearings are bad you can feel it by taking 
loose the spring and shock and moving the idler arm up and down by 
hand.


x



You can thread the belt around the fan blades, between the bald tips and
shroud. It takes a few minutes to figure out where, but it wasn't that hard.


On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 9:35 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:




 Howdy -

 Thx again for all the help in my problem with my sluggish 300D - I wish I'd
 ch anged the main fuel filter 1st!



 Anyway - about the subject -my current Belt has about 80,000 miles on it
 and is showing lateral cracks across the ribbing.  I rec'd a new one from
 Rusty last week and need to start planning the job.



 I read the MB WSM procedure and was wondering if I need to remove the fan
 shroud (or lay it back out of the way as much as possible) and removing the
 fan assy?



 I had all that stuff out last time because of the other things I was doing
 but don't need to remove all that stuff this time.



 What should I do?



 TIA

 LarryT

 91 300D





--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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