Re: [MBZ] Preppin for the Q

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Thank you Curt, Dwight, Fred, et al for all the food and set-up. That was a 
great time! Looking forward to next year!

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:44 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

The ChowdaQ celebrates all things oxidized. One year an award was given for the 
worst jalopy of the group and I must say the winner was most deserving. If I 
remember correctly that was the day that car used/leaked a gallon of oil on the 
way to the Q and a gallon on the way home.

Had we done that today I like to think I'd have been in the running. On the way 
to the Q my '78 240D developed a coolant leak. It needed around a gallon of 
coolant for the round trip. Tomorrow if it quits raining I'll  spend some time 
figuring out where the coolant is going. I think its a leaking radiator, 
running with the cap loose worked to slow the leak as long as I kept the speed 
moderate.

-Curt

From: "Gerry Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Preppin for the Q
Message-ID: <9787E33A269E4E7EB0F3F874D15CC26E@PC466116028214>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
   reply-type=original

I'm surprised New Englanders have let California get so far ahead of them in
the celebration of rusty vehicles.
For example, Pacifica California has yearly Fog Festivals and the top prize
is awarded to the "Most Rusted Vehicle".  A judge at one of the Fog
Festivals had this to say about the winners:
"The impressive deterioration of the trunk sealed the second place victory
for the '79 Malibu, but the pickup truck was the winner."  "It was so nice
and rusty and full of holes, you could see right through it".
Gerry

From: "Dimitri Seretakis" 
You're in luck. I always take step by step photos of all my rust
repairs:)

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[MBZ] Today's Amazing BAT Find

[Dan Penoff]

Amazing!

http://bringatrailer.com/2012/09/08/never-seen-one-1955-mercedes-benz-170-sd-truck/

Dan

Sent from my iPad

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [MBZ] OT - upside down spray painting

[G Mann]

Yes, and my apology for not clearly communicating the difference. I forgot
there are rigs that call them selves "airless" but only act by "throwing
paint off of a rotating wheel" such as the "wagner airless". not the
case in my suggestion.

The airless rigs I have and have used to paint large machines are all
diaphragm pump driven pressure rigs that put out 1200 to 1800 psi at the
nozzle. With the correct nozzle tip made for atomizing automotive viscosity
paint, you can and with just a little practice, will produce a nice
professional finish. All the production line robots use just such a rig.

You will find that you have very little overspray unlike the pressure pot
or cup fed HVLP gun which sprays air mixed with paint vacuumed up from the
cup.  The pressure airless gun just sprays paint. Takes a little "getting
used to" so practice with it to "get the feel of it" .. if you have painted
with an air driven spray gun before and know to look as you blow paint on
for coverage indicators and "to much here indicators" it won't take long to
get a feel and do a great job. Multiple coats are easy with these rigs. I
like to cross hatch the coats for coverage. Because you can put on so much
paint so fast compared to an air fed gun your tendency will be to go to
fast.  DON"T.. slow down.. lay down a light coat let it tack.. layer
another... let it tack... repeat as necessary...

If you use a used airless I suggest you buy a new pressure hose and pickup
hose, super clean the spray handle, new nozzle sized for the viscosity of
the paint [automotive works].. the diaphragm pump won't need to be taken
apart in most cases it will be clean enough. There is usually a filter in
the handle of the sprayer.. new one of those certainly. Can't think of
anything else happy painting...

Plan for some extra solvent to spray through the rig when you are done to
clean it up... do that quickly after you are done applying color coat.
Don't ask how I learned to do that ... ;}}

I also keep a bucket of paint solvent with just enough in it to cover the
spray nozzle end of the sprayer... between coats, I submerge the nozzle end
in that to keep nozzle cleared of hardened paint, so it's ready to go for
second /third coats... clear the gun with a blast onto cardboard to check
pattern and paint away.

Hope this helps...

Grant...

On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 8:33 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> OK - so you'retalking about a serious airless rig here - not a cheap
> Wagner? The one I did use a few years back was only good for texturing with
> paint -
> I'll look into that.
>
> On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 8:38 PM, G Mann  wrote:
>
> > If you plan to use a HVLP air pressure spray gun with the cup mounted on
> > the bottom, there is an elbow adapter that sets between the pickup tube
> and
> > the cup. With that elbow in place the cup "hangs" when the gun is pointed
> > "up" .
> >
> > The other option is to use a pressure pot to feed the HVLP gun. I have
> one
> > that holds 3 qts. and have used it to some success, however, I've found
> it
> > to be a PITA, and I really do not like it.
> >
> > The other option for painting "upside down" that I have used is an
> airless
> > gun fitted with the correct spray nozzle for automotive paint [yes, there
> > is such a thing, but you have to ask your supplier for it].  The airless
> > system is my all time favorite. There is "no waiting" for the air
> pressure
> > to build back up, the HVLP suction to suck and spray, etc etc etc... you
> > can spray until you are up to color and coverage with the only
> > considerations being drying time between coats and laying on to much
> paint.
> >
> > On the DOWN side.. a few points.
> >
> > One. Practice before you paint. Airless application of automotive paint
> is
> > "different" than HVLP application. Spray pattern, pass speed and distance
> > back all are factors in making a good finish. With the airless,
> application
> > pressure is , at the nozzle, around 1600 PSI so DO NOT spray across any
> > body part or it will inject it under your skin... death or amputation may
> > follow be serious, be safe.
> >
> > A practice session willl also teach you about how fast you use paint to
> get
> > the finish you want. Having done it now a few times on large vehicles
> > [motor homes, tractor trailer rigs] I'm spoiled. It works and it's fast.
> >
> > Two: Clean up. Clean the rig REALLY WELL... before and after... with a 50
> > ft hose and other pieces to hold paint which will dry inside and ruin the
> > next paint job [or just ruin your day] clean is godly.
> >
> > Hope this helps, enjoy the experience.
> >
> > Grant...
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 5:06 PM, Tim C  wrote:
> >
> > > On Sep 8, 2012 5:36 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need to paint the underside of a Cessna wing - want to use spray -
> > any
> > > > suggestions  on a gun, etc.?
> > > > No, I don't want to remove the wing first!
> > >
> > > If you have a friend fly the plane upside-down you should be able

[MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Dimitri Seretakis]

On the trip back from ChowdaQ my car  really started misbehaving. The  
stumbling at idle progressed to downright engine stalling. It stalled  
on me two or three times. I was quickly able to restart it.
I really need to do the compression test with that tester that Fred  
graciously lent me. I'm doing it through the GP holes but I'm having a  
very difficult time getting the wire retaining nut off the gp without  
having the wire rotate with the nut. The insulation is already cracked/ 
cracking and I'm afraid of breaking the wire. Any tips?
Also the center of the number two gp seems to be wobbly and loose  
within the gp body. Do I need to replace this plug?
As far as the compression test goes, do I have to worry about fuel  
spraying into the cylinders while performing the test?

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

If you are doing it thru the glow plug hole you need to remove all the metal 
injector lines and cover the ip with a rag or something to keep fuel from 
spraying all over the place or somehow shut off the fuel supply otherwise the 
engine is likely to start

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

> On the trip back from ChowdaQ my car  really started misbehaving. The  
> stumbling at idle progressed to downright engine stalling. It stalled  
> on me two or three times. I was quickly able to restart it.
> I really need to do the compression test with that tester that Fred  
> graciously lent me. I'm doing it through the GP holes but I'm having a  
> very difficult time getting the wire retaining nut off the gp without  
> having the wire rotate with the nut. The insulation is already cracked/ 
> cracking and I'm afraid of breaking the wire. Any tips?
> Also the center of the number two gp seems to be wobbly and loose  
> within the gp body. Do I need to replace this plug?
> As far as the compression test goes, do I have to worry about fuel  
> spraying into the cylinders while performing the test?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] I am insane

[Dan Penoff]

And with a B series Cummins in it the "klatta-klatta" would be minimized, too.

Dan


On Sep 9, 2012, at 1:33 AM, Fmiser wrote:

>>> Fmiser wrote:
>>> 
>>> What about putting a hopped up OM603 in there?  It would be
>>> unique.
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Craig]

On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 10:20:57 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
 wrote:

> If you are doing it thru the glow plug hole you need to remove all the
> metal injector lines and cover the ip with a rag or something to keep
> fuel from spraying all over the place or somehow shut off the fuel
> supply otherwise the engine is likely to start

Tie the stop lever on the injection pump down so there is no fuel
delivery. Then you don't need to remove injector lines.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Jim Cathey]

very difficult time getting the wire retaining nut off the gp without
having the wire rotate with the nut.


Pliers of some sort.  Hold the lug while cracking the nut loose.


Also the center of the number two gp seems to be wobbly and loose
within the gp body. Do I need to replace this plug?


Absolutely.


As far as the compression test goes, do I have to worry about fuel
spraying into the cylinders while performing the test?


No, because you will either lash the stop lever down, or connect
the shutoff line directly to the vacuum source.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] I am insane

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 10:33 PM, Fmiser  wrote:
>> > Fmiser wrote:
>> Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>>
>> diesel-powered Rolls Silver Shadow.
>
> Hmm.  A Silver Shadow is pretty heavy even for a strong OM603.
> I think a 6BT would be about right...

If it's not too tall for a car application.  I'm reminded of the
special Earth Day episode of "Pimp my Ride" in which a '60s GM muscle
car (a Chevelle maybe?) receives a Duramax transplant and then goes to
the drag strip setting all kinds of records on biodiesel.  They had to
cut a hole in the hood and put a big fiberglass bulge on it to make
room for the engine.

With the Silver Shadow there's probably lots of other issues I haven't
thought of given the (to be polite) wacky British engineering of those
cars.  For example, there's a weird high-pressure Citroen-style (or
450SEL 6.9-style?) brake and suspension leveling system needing to be
powered, although I imagine that's the kind of problem that could be
solved with sufficient application of money and custom fabrication.
(These are the kind of things I wonder about when people swap American
engines into Benzes, parenthetically.  How does a Ford 5.0's A/C and
heating systems interface with a 123's ACC, to give one example I've
seen?)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Max Dillon]

I'm betting on a Fuel or air delivery problem, likely time to replace fuel 
filters or air filter.  Could also be a fuel leak.  Carefully examine all fuel 
lines with engine running.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

>On the trip back from ChowdaQ my car  really started misbehaving. The  
>stumbling at idle progressed to downright engine stalling. It stalled  
>on me two or three times. I was quickly able to restart it.
>I really need to do the compression test with that tester that Fred  
>graciously lent me. I'm doing it through the GP holes but I'm having a 
>
>very difficult time getting the wire retaining nut off the gp without  
>having the wire rotate with the nut. The insulation is already cracked/
>
>cracking and I'm afraid of breaking the wire. Any tips?
>Also the center of the number two gp seems to be wobbly and loose  
>within the gp body. Do I need to replace this plug?
>As far as the compression test goes, do I have to worry about fuel  
>spraying into the cylinders while performing the test?
>
>Sent from my iPhone
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>
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Re: [MBZ] I am insane

[Allan Streib]

Alex Chamberlain  writes:

> With the Silver Shadow there's probably lots of other issues I haven't
> thought of given the (to be polite) wacky British engineering of those
> cars.

A modern Rolls is basically just a BMW.  A Silver Shadow I guess would
still be of "wacky British" construction.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Removing the injector lines makes it much easier to get to the glow plugs

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2012, at 10:46 AM, Craig  wrote:

> On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 10:20:57 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
>  wrote:
> 
>> If you are doing it thru the glow plug hole you need to remove all the
>> metal injector lines and cover the ip with a rag or something to keep
>> fuel from spraying all over the place or somehow shut off the fuel
>> supply otherwise the engine is likely to start
> 
> Tie the stop lever on the injection pump down so there is no fuel
> delivery. Then you don't need to remove injector lines.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Preppin for the Q

[Michael Canfield]

Hmmm.  Never thought of that.  We have what we affectionately call rot rods
though.  The more they rust, the lighter they are so the faster they go.

Mike
On Sep 8, 2012 12:47 AM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:

> I'm surprised New Englanders have let California get so far ahead of them
> in
> the celebration of rusty vehicles.
> For example, Pacifica California has yearly Fog Festivals and the top prize
> is awarded to the "Most Rusted Vehicle".  A judge at one of the Fog
> Festivals had this to say about the winners:
> "The impressive deterioration of the trunk sealed the second place victory
> for the '79 Malibu, but the pickup truck was the winner."  "It was so nice
> and rusty and full of holes, you could see right through it".
> Gerry
>
> From: "Dimitri Seretakis" 
>
>> You're in luck. I always take step by step photos of all my rust
>> repairs:)
>>
>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 6:10 PM, Mike Esh  wrote:
>>
>>> I would love to see pictures and write up. I will have to be doing
>>> this next year.
>>> Mike in rust belt of Michigan
>>>
>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 5:08 PM, Dimitri Seretakis 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 That was funny. Why do cars have to rust! I spent the past two days
 (part of) detailing my 240D. It was way overdue. Suddenly my car
 started turning heads and getting compliments again despite the
 rust! Hopefully I'll tackle some rust spots this fall- the front
 jack points need repair-especially the drivers side.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 7, 2012, at 4:33 PM, Curt Raymond 
 wrote:

 Welded up a fist sized hole in my '78 240D today, that was a job
 that was really overdue and I wish I'd tackled it sooner. I did
 notice (rats) that the boots on the tie rod end and upper ball
 joint on the passenger side look really sad. Fortunately I have all
 new tie rods. They don't feel bad yet but I'll replace before the
 snow hits (sure Mac, sure).

 Anyway time to load up the car, tomorrow is the ChowdaQ!

 -Curt

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>>>
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[MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing

[Craig]

In today's Los Alamos Monitor, front page, above the fold, big bold type,
"Black Hole set to close."

They will be having a sale later on in September, in case anyone wants to
come and see it. :-)


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing

[Dan Penoff]

List fest Los Alamos!

Dan


On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:04 PM, Craig wrote:

> In today's Los Alamos Monitor, front page, above the fold, big bold type,
> "Black Hole set to close."
> 
> They will be having a sale later on in September, in case anyone wants to
> come and see it. :-)
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing

[Craig]

On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 17:10:01 -0400 Dan Penoff  wrote:

> List fest Los Alamos!

Sure!

The sale is 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (1000 - 1700 for you, Wilton) on
21 - 23 September (Friday through Sunday).


Craig



> On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:04 PM, Craig wrote:
> 
> > In today's Los Alamos Monitor, front page, above the fold, big bold
> > type, "Black Hole set to close."
> > 
> > They will be having a sale later on in September, in case anyone
> > wants to come and see it. :-)
> > 
> > 
> > Craig
> > 
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Craig

--
Present:'95 E320Sebastian  112 kmi
'94 E420Oskar  127 kmi
'82 240D/3.0Bluebell   267 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc   Emma
'72 220D/8  Herman 186 kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Mitch Haley]

Jim Cathey wrote:



Also the center of the number two gp seems to be wobbly and loose
within the gp body. Do I need to replace this plug?


Absolutely.


I bet I know why the car runs rough.
We'll know for sure after he gets the #2 plug out.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing

[Dan Penoff]

Great!  I've been looking for a deal on some 20' marble obelisks.

Good side trip to Bandolier, too.


Dan


On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:13 PM, Craig wrote:

> On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 17:10:01 -0400 Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
>> List fest Los Alamos!
> 
> Sure!
> 
> The sale is 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (1000 - 1700 for you, Wilton) on
> 21 - 23 September (Friday through Sunday).
> 
> 
> Craig
> 


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[MBZ] Bring a trailer, Kaleb

[clay monroe]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3259674549.html

not mine, no affiliation, no interest

Too bad Casey is not on the list anymore.  Good frog car for him


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







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Re: [MBZ] Bring a trailer, Kaleb

[Allan Streib]

Sounds like a bunch of cars that have been ruined by fryer oil.

clay monroe  writes:

> http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3259674549.html
>
> not mine, no affiliation, no interest
>
> Too bad Casey is not on the list anymore.  Good frog car for him

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[Dimitri Seretakis]

So I mispoke- it was the number three plug but that doesn't matter. The tip of 
the plug looked fine. The engine is now stone cold. I understand a compression 
test should be done on a warm engine. Should it really make a significant 
difference?

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:08 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

Jim Cathey wrote:
Also the center of the number two gp seems to be wobbly and loose
within the gp body. Do I need to replace this plug?
Absolutely.

I bet I know why the car runs rough.
We'll know for sure after he gets the #2 plug out.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing

[WILTON]

Yes, I noticed.  Thanks.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Craig" 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing



On Sun, 09 Sep 2012 17:10:01 -0400 Dan Penoff  wrote:


List fest Los Alamos!


Sure!

The sale is 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (1000 - 1700 for you, Wilton) on
21 - 23 September (Friday through Sunday).


Craig




On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:04 PM, Craig wrote:

> In today's Los Alamos Monitor, front page, above the fold, big bold
> type, "Black Hole set to close."
> 
> They will be having a sale later on in September, in case anyone

> wants to come and see it. :-)
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___

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Craig

--
Present:'95 E320 Sebastian  112 kmi
'94 E420Oskar  127 kmi
   '82 240D/3.0Bluebell   267 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
   '72 220/8
   '64 190Dc   Emma
   '72 220D/8  Herman 186 kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Bring a trailer, Kaleb

[Mitch Haley]

clay monroe wrote:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3259674549.html



Interesting W116 300SD there at the bottom, doesn't look bad for having the 
chrome wheel arches. No pic of the 300CD?


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Re: [MBZ] Now it's official: The Black Hole is closing

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Sounds like a plan 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2012, at 4:10 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> List fest Los Alamos!
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:04 PM, Craig wrote:
> 
>> In today's Los Alamos Monitor, front page, above the fold, big bold type,
>> "Black Hole set to close."
>> 
>> They will be having a sale later on in September, in case anyone wants to
>> come and see it. :-)
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bring a trailer, Kaleb

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Yep

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:09 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Sounds like a bunch of cars that have been ruined by fryer oil.
> 
> clay monroe  writes:
> 
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3259674549.html
>> 
>> not mine, no affiliation, no interest
>> 
>> Too bad Casey is not on the list anymore.  Good frog car for him
> 
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - upside down spray painting

[OK Don]

Excellent write-up. I think i can follow those instructions! Yes,
minimizing over spray is one of my goals, I don't have a paint booth. I'll
be hanging plastic around to limit the mess. Yes, I'll be wearing the
appropriate mask, air supply, etc.
 Thanks.

On Sun, Sep 9, 2012 at 9:29 AM, G Mann  wrote:

> Yes, and my apology for not clearly communicating the difference. I forgot
> there are rigs that call them selves "airless" but only act by "throwing
> paint off of a rotating wheel" such as the "wagner airless". not the
> case in my suggestion.
>
> The airless rigs I have and have used to paint large machines are all
> diaphragm pump driven pressure rigs that put out 1200 to 1800 psi at the
> nozzle. With the correct nozzle tip made for atomizing automotive viscosity
> paint, you can and with just a little practice, will produce a nice
> professional finish. All the production line robots use just such a rig.
>
> You will find that you have very little overspray unlike the pressure pot
> or cup fed HVLP gun which sprays air mixed with paint vacuumed up from the
> cup.  The pressure airless gun just sprays paint. Takes a little "getting
> used to" so practice with it to "get the feel of it" .. if you have painted
> with an air driven spray gun before and know to look as you blow paint on
> for coverage indicators and "to much here indicators" it won't take long to
> get a feel and do a great job. Multiple coats are easy with these rigs. I
> like to cross hatch the coats for coverage. Because you can put on so much
> paint so fast compared to an air fed gun your tendency will be to go to
> fast.  DON"T.. slow down.. lay down a light coat let it tack.. layer
> another... let it tack... repeat as necessary...
>
> If you use a used airless I suggest you buy a new pressure hose and pickup
> hose, super clean the spray handle, new nozzle sized for the viscosity of
> the paint [automotive works].. the diaphragm pump won't need to be taken
> apart in most cases it will be clean enough. There is usually a filter in
> the handle of the sprayer.. new one of those certainly. Can't think of
> anything else happy painting...
>
> Plan for some extra solvent to spray through the rig when you are done to
> clean it up... do that quickly after you are done applying color coat.
> Don't ask how I learned to do that ... ;}}
>
> I also keep a bucket of paint solvent with just enough in it to cover the
> spray nozzle end of the sprayer... between coats, I submerge the nozzle end
> in that to keep nozzle cleared of hardened paint, so it's ready to go for
> second /third coats... clear the gun with a blast onto cardboard to check
> pattern and paint away.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> Grant...
>
> On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 8:33 PM, OK Don  wrote:
>
> > OK - so you'retalking about a serious airless rig here - not a cheap
> > Wagner? The one I did use a few years back was only good for texturing
> with
> > paint -
> > I'll look into that.
> >
> > On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 8:38 PM, G Mann  wrote:
> >
> > > If you plan to use a HVLP air pressure spray gun with the cup mounted
> on
> > > the bottom, there is an elbow adapter that sets between the pickup tube
> > and
> > > the cup. With that elbow in place the cup "hangs" when the gun is
> pointed
> > > "up" .
> > >
> > > The other option is to use a pressure pot to feed the HVLP gun. I have
> > one
> > > that holds 3 qts. and have used it to some success, however, I've found
> > it
> > > to be a PITA, and I really do not like it.
> > >
> > > The other option for painting "upside down" that I have used is an
> > airless
> > > gun fitted with the correct spray nozzle for automotive paint [yes,
> there
> > > is such a thing, but you have to ask your supplier for it].  The
> airless
> > > system is my all time favorite. There is "no waiting" for the air
> > pressure
> > > to build back up, the HVLP suction to suck and spray, etc etc etc...
> you
> > > can spray until you are up to color and coverage with the only
> > > considerations being drying time between coats and laying on to much
> > paint.
> > >
> > > On the DOWN side.. a few points.
> > >
> > > One. Practice before you paint. Airless application of automotive paint
> > is
> > > "different" than HVLP application. Spray pattern, pass speed and
> distance
> > > back all are factors in making a good finish. With the airless,
> > application
> > > pressure is , at the nozzle, around 1600 PSI so DO NOT spray across any
> > > body part or it will inject it under your skin... death or amputation
> may
> > > follow be serious, be safe.
> > >
> > > A practice session willl also teach you about how fast you use paint to
> > get
> > > the finish you want. Having done it now a few times on large vehicles
> > > [motor homes, tractor trailer rigs] I'm spoiled. It works and it's
> fast.
> > >
> > > Two: Clean up. Clean the rig REALLY WELL... before and after... with a
> 50
> > > ft hose and other pieces to hold paint which will dry inside 

Re: [MBZ] Removing glow plugs for compression test

[OK Don]

You're mostly looking for the delta between cylinders, so absolute
pressures don't matter. Therefore, yes - do it cold. If you need to compare
your readings to the minimums in the manual, yes, you need to do it warm.
I always did mine cold.
There is a spec for how much the lowest cylinder can be relative to the
others - 5 or 10% or so, but I don't remember for sure now. This is the
important number in your case, IMHO.

On Sun, Sep 9, 2012 at 5:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

> So I mispoke- it was the number three plug but that doesn't matter. The
> tip of the plug looked fine. The engine is now stone cold. I understand a
> compression test should be done on a warm engine. Should it really make a
> significant difference?
>
>


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Ethelred is now Ready

[Jim Cathey]

Today the car sold, $3000 to a local buyer.
She was recently divorced, and getting herself
a birthday present.  She didn't seem to mind that
it was a bit of a project; that it was $5000 less
than any other SL for sale locally might have had
something to do with that.

I'm so happy!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Ethelred is now Ready

[Dan Penoff]

Glad you found a buyer, Jim.  Congrats!

Now finish counting the money and hand it over to SWMBO



Dan


On Sep 9, 2012, at 11:51 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

> Today the car sold, $3000 to a local buyer.
> She was recently divorced, and getting herself
> a birthday present.  She didn't seem to mind that
> it was a bit of a project; that it was $5000 less
> than any other SL for sale locally might have had
> something to do with that.
> 
> I'm so happy!
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> 
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