[MBZ] hardwiring glowplugs
In the past I rewired a Volvo diesel ( 1983) by using a Telemechanique pushbutton switch with a 12 volt bulb. The switch had two circuits. I wired one directly to the bulb and battery the other went to activate the relay which activated the glow plugs. I used 18 guage wire to the relay. The light only indicated that I was pressing down on switch and that the switch was working. The system worked well, and eliminated the need of troubleshooting faulty temperature sensors etc.. Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Cheap Rodbender.
The 350 SDL does have a low level oil indicator. The switch is located on the left side of the motor below the IP. When the motor is one liter low the light will go one ( if the bulb is ok). Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sdl w126
The MB manual suggests that you decompress the spring and illustrates the process. Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sdl -w 126
Actually I do have the Klann tool. I also have the CD with the details and some photographs. I only wanted the photographs in case I missed something. Photographs might be helpful. Does anyone know how to check the steering knuckle for conformity? The manual simply states if in doubt throw it out. Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sdl -w 126 Steering knuckle
In the EPC you will find the Steering Knuckle in group 33, front axle. It is item 5. The MB part number is A 116 330 4120. Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sdl spring removal
Sorry for the repost. I was hoping that someone photographed the process. Regards, Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sdl- w126
Does anyone have any photographs showing the Klann spring removal tool ( Kl 0021) being used on the front springs of the w 126? Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sdl spring removal
Does anyone have any photographs showing the Klann spring removal tool ( Kl 0021) being used on the front springs of the w 126? Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350 sd shjocks
Thanks Craig and Wilton. I contacted Bilstein and they suggest considering the Heavy Duty version of these shocks. They are physically identical, the HD is a bit more stiff ( the internal valves don't allow the fluid to pass as fast) and claim that the cornering is better. I am still on the archives list but no longer on the daily list, which is just fine. Regards, Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 350sdl shocks
The following is a response regarding my request to evaluate the shocks illustrated on my website: www.scaffolding.com/mb/100 0076 Hello Constantine: The picture of the right front shock does appear to be a Bilstein, however I cannot tell from the left front photo if it is also a Bilstein. The oil residue seen on both does not appear to be significant and generally not indicative of a seal failure. Seal failure would result in much greater oil loss with the entire shock body being wet and most likely oil dripping off the bottom. It is normal to see oil weeping from the top seal and this is perfectly acceptable. I hope that helps answer your question. Regards, Scott MacDonald Eastern Regional Manager *ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America* *A ThyssenKrupp Technologies Company* 293 Timber Road Mooresville, NC 28115 www.bilstein.com Phone: 800/745-4636 Fax: 704/663-7585e. ref: www.scaffolding.com/mb/100 0076 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl Shock absorbers
Which shock would be recommended for the 350 sdl? I have recently posted some more photographs of the suspension system of the 350 sdl for common use. Go to: www.scaffolding.com/mb then find # 100 0074, 100 0075, 100 0083 and 100 0086. Aparantly my name has been deleted from the list, you can contact me directly. Regards, Constantine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Tire alignment bolt-w 126
Does anyone have an extra tire alignment bolt for sale? Constantine
Re: [MBZ] 91 350 SDL Transmission
Wilton, I believe you'll find the procedure in the manual. You run the car for about 20 minutes and then while the car is in park and still running, check the transmission level. Add very little at a time and run the transmission through all the positions (shifting). Keep adding very little at a time until you get between marks on the stick. Eight oz. at a time is too much. I've done this many times because I had problems with front belt shock and had to remove the radiator each time to gain access. To remove the radiator you have to drain the transmission. I drain and reuse the fluid. That problem turned out to be several pulleys were not concentric, so I changed them. However to determine the culprit you had to have a dial indicator with a sweep of .2 mm.and a range of 10mm.( think that's right). Each pulley had to be check for alignment and concentricity. Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] 91 350SDL transmission (wilton strickland)
I recall the instructions indicating that the car must be driven for 20 minutes. That's the way I do it. It doesn't have to be driven again for 20 minutes after you start adding the fluid. Just keep it running. Constantine
Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl rattle
At about 40mph I get a low frequency rattle up front. What are the candidates? I changed the steering shock absorber some time ago. Regards, Constantine
Re: [MBZ] serpentine belt drives
Does anyone know what the maximum allowable out of round dimension is for the alternator, water pump or power steering pump? I am presently getting .2mm on the water pump, .1 for the power steering pump and .1 for the alternator. I am trying to eliminate the vibration on the serpentine belt tensioner. Constantine
Re: [MBZ] 350sdl tensioner
I have presented this issue on several lists and have received a lot of different point of view, all which are valuable. The issue is the failure of the serpentine belt tensioner. Several individuals have indicated that they have encountered failures around 20,000 with no other cause. Others have indicated that the cause is either a loose bolt or perhaps another pulley not in proper position. Another view was that the tensioner is of poor design and is very intolerant of other forces. I believe that all of the above is true. First, I found that there can be potential problems with all of the associated pulleys (water pump, alternator, power steering and a/c). To reduce the stress and potential vibration these have to be checked for proper alignment : they must be inline with the driveshaft pulley. Next they must each be checked with a dial indicator for trueness. Such an indictor should have a range of not more .2 mm ( my view). Pulleys, when mounted on the shaft can be be out of round by .2 mm or more. This can be minimized by removing the pulley and checking the shaft, noting the high point,the low point and then mounting the pulley and rotating it on the shaft so that you get the pulley's low point over the shafts high point. I really don't know if any of this has any real effect on the failure but at least you have minimized the potential for damage. Any other views ? Constantine
[MBZ] water pump gasket
I am unable to find the sealant which is suggested by the water pump manufacturer ( Meyle). Any suggestions? Also what are the torque values for the bolts? Thanks in advance. Regards, Constantine
Re: [MBZ] socket head bolts
There are allen wrenches with 3/8 drives and also 1/2 drives available. They are made straight and also with a ball head, the later for angle applications. Socket head bolts are a lot easier to access and install. A good set of these tools will make things a lot easier. Constantine
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 12, Issue 33
Does anyone know what the tolerance is for the inline pulleys on models with the serpentine belt.? If the alternator is 1 mm out of line, how can it be best be brought inline again? Constantine
[MBZ] rebuilding the Vicker power steering pump
Loren, I partly rebuilt mine, which is a two stage unit (steering and hydraulic blocking of the differential) for the 350 SDL. You can replace all of the seals yourself, but be very careful when removing the body. The vanes are loose and must be kept in place. It is a very tricky operation. The shaft requires a special puller. The cost to either buy one or make one exceeds the cost of having it rebuilt. I sent mine to Star Motors ( Niel), tel. 607 786 3918 and had them rebuild it. They have the parts or you can supply them with the kit from MB. My total cost, with a new bearing (an internal bore) was about $140. They also have exchange units. I chose to keep mine because I had just had some parts on it remachined. Constantine
[MBZ] Chimney for wood stove
The all fuel flues from metalbestos are quite good. Go to www.selkirkinc.com. They are double wall stainless steel and come in various diameters from 5 to 14 and in lengths from 6 to 48. A cleanout tee is recommended. Get the Platinum series, ultra temp which goes up to 2100 degrees Fahrenheit. Constantine
[MBZ] chimney
Followup: Along Dave's pattern of thought, you could use Metalbestos flues from the basement through the living room floor and then use offsets to connect with the existing chimney. After that you can enclose the new pipes with a small partition.The insulated pipe can be placed within 2 of combustable material. Constantine
[MBZ] see diesel models
visit:http://www.smart.com/-snm-0155318764-1153205674-007006-010625-1156703095-enm-is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/mpc-lu-content-Site/de_LU/-/-/SVCPresentationPipeline-Start;sid=HP1hXZtVO-NhXd-k_4rpVRlfgsZpugVuFBq11osTX-lgMg==?Page=issite%3a%2f%2fsmart-Site%2fsmart%2ecom%2fRootFolder%2fsmart%2fhome%2epage diesel models of smart get appx. 70mpg., price appx. 9,000 euro. plus dot plus epa Constantine.
[MBZ] blower wiring upgrade
You might wish to examine the motor. If the motor is drawing too many amps, you may have a motor problem and not a wiring problem. The bearing in the shaft may be worn and could be creating a lot of friction. It would be a good investment to change the motor. Incidentally, the motor is available as a Bosch part through Bosch distributors at a very much lower price than the assembly ( motor and housing) which is available from MB ( about $ 125.). Visit www.scaffolding.com/mb and look for blower. Constantine
[MBZ] 126 Alignment
The lock pin must be purchased from MB. I see about 1 hr of work maximum ( if you have shop facilities). Two hours if you don't have any welding equipment and have to pay someone to weld the plates on the end. I'll photograph it when I make it. Incidentally, has anyone translated the toe in values into millimeters? I used an optical transit to align a relative's car after they went to an alignment shop. The shop apparently could not loosen a particular nut so they told him it was finished and charged him. After he left the shop the problem came back again. He brought it into my plant and we lifted it with a forklift. The nut was seized and would not budge even with Kroil. I used a fine brazing tip with oxygen/acytelene. I made the nut red hot and then let it cool down. This was done four times before the nut would move. Of course it got a good coating of anti seize. Back to the issue. The method I used was to take a reading of the back rim with the transit, then project the value to the front rim and add the toe in value. The car in question was a Honda Accord. The results appear to be satisfactory. If anyone has any comments on this procedure, please let me know. I have not tried this on my 350SDL. Constantine
[MBZ] 126 alignement
I phoned Beissbarth ( the manufacturer of the spreader bar) and learned that their price is appx. $ 199 for the spreader bar. It has an MB number of 900 589 012700. This may be a rather simple item to make for a fraction of the cost. I am sure that the Beisbarth spreader has a built in torque device pre set at 90-110 NM. However, it might also be done with two short pieces of pipe with plates welded on the end. The middle can be fashioned with a 18 piece of all thread and two nuts. You will however need a torque wrench and a crows foot wrench to tighten the nut. Your thoughts on the subject.. Constantine
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19
Ok here. Constantine
[MBZ] pull the whole engine?
Yes. It will be a more pleasant experience. See www.scaffolding.com/mb. There are plenty of photos of the 603970 motor - the idea is the same. The motor will actually sit on the oil pan with no problem. Extra blocks keep things safe. Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] Seat belt problem
One option is to get a die grinder and smooth out the sharp edges and live with what you have ( I chose that option). Of course the downside is that you have to slide the male clip up each time you get into the car. Constantine
[MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs
Just a note for glow plug removal. You will save yourself a lot of grief if you remove the intake manifold. Constantine
[MBZ] [Fwd: Dell Server Deal Today]
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[MBZ] O ring on oil filter housing
On the 350 sdl, the oil filter housing has a large o ring. This is changed with every oil change. The new cross section (diameter) is 4 mm. This changes after 2,000 miles and becomes 3.5mm Problem: the last few o rings leak. The nuts are torqued to 23nm each. No change in the quality of oil from before the leak to after the leaks began. The housing has not been damaged or bent. Anyone with this problem? Any known solutions? Constantine
[MBZ] Credit protection
The following was sent to me by a former classmate, Dan Egan. It is certainly very useful. Some Good things to think about in our new and wondrous world! Subject: Attorney's advice ATTORNEY'S ADVICE-NO CHARGE A corporate attorney sent the following out to the employees in his company. 1. The next time you order checks have only your initials (instead of first name) and last name put on them. If someone takes your checkbook, they will not know if you sign your checks with just your initials or your first name, but your bank will know how you sign your checks. 2. Do not sign the back of your credit cards. Instead, put PHOTO ID REQUIRED. 3. When you are writing checks to pay on your credit card accounts, DO NOT put the complete account number on the For line. Instead, just put the last four numbers. The credit card company knows the rest of the number, and anyone who might be handling your check as it passes through all the check-processing channels will not have access to it. 4. Put your work phone # on your checks instead of your home phone. If you have a PO Box, use that instead of your home address. If you do not have a PO Box, use your work address. Never have your SS# printed on your checks, (DUH!). You can add it if it is necessary. However, if you have it printed, anyone can get it. 5. Place the contents of your wallet on a photocopy machine. Do both sides of each license, credit card, etc. You will know what you had in your wallet and all of the account numbers and phone numbers to call and cancel. Keep the photocopy in a safe place. Also carry a photocopy of your passport when traveling either here or abroad. We have all heard horror stories about fraud that is committed on us in stealing a name, address, Social Security number, credit cards. 6. When you check out of a hotel that uses cards for keys (and they all seem to do that now), do not turn the keys in. Take them with you and destroy them. Those little cards have on them all of the information you gave the hotel, including address and credit card numbers and expiration dates. Someone with a card reader, or employee of the hotel, can access all that information with no problem whatsoever. Unfortunately, as an attorney, I have first hand knowledge because my wallet was stolen last month. Within a week, the thieves ordered an expensive monthly cell phone package, applied for a VISA credit card, had a credit line approved to buy a Gateway computer and received a PIN number from DMV to change my driving record information online. Here is some critical information to limit the damage in case this happens to you or someone you know: 1. We have been told we should cancel our credit cards immediately. The key is having the toll free numbers and your card numbers handy so you know whom to call. Keep those where you can find them. 2. File a police report immediately in the jurisdiction where your credit cards, etc., were stolen. This proves to credit providers you were diligent, and this is a first step toward an investigation (if there ever is one). However, here is what is perhaps most important of all (I never even thought to do this.) 3. Call the three national credit reporting organizations immediately to place a fraud alert on your name and Social Security number. I had never heard of doing that until advised by a bank that called to tell me an application for credit was made over the Internet in my name. The alert means any company that checks your credit knows your information was stolen, and they have to contact you by phone to authorize new credit. By the time I was advised to do this, almost two weeks after the theft, all the damage had been done. There are records of all the credit checks initiated by the thieves' purchases,none of which I knew about before placing the alert. Since then, no additional damage has been done, and the thieves threw my wallet away this weekend (someone turned it in). It seems to have stopped them dead in their tracks. Now, here are the numbers you always need to contact about your wallet and contents being stolen: 1.) Equifax: 1-800-525-6285 2.) Experian (formerly TRW): 1-888-397-3742 3.) TransUnion: 1-800-680-7289 4.) Social Security Administration (fraud line): 1-800-269-0271 We pass along jokes on the Internet; we pass along just about everything.
[MBZ] MB EPC Electronics Parts Catalog ON LINE (Tom Scordato)
Tom: You mentioned that the MB tech manuals are on line. Are you refering to the mb service which charges for access? Constantine
[MBZ] sunroof tools and other items.
Dave, Thanks for the hint regarding the sunroof tools. I'm planing on having the car painted. Some months ago I posted the status of my 350SDL after an encounter with a discharge of sulfur dioxide. The refinery actually paid in full. Any hints on getting a good paint job will be appreciated. I am still getting a low frequency rattle. It occurs only between 700 and 1000 rpm. I did replace the a/c clutch which had a bad bearing. At that time I discovered a leak from the tandem hydraulic pump. All of that is in order and functioning very well. Another problem that developed is the kickdown function. I have 12 volts at the solenoid but have not tested the solenoid. The transmission is about 20,000 miles old. The bowden cable is set with a 1 mm slack. All comments welcome. Constantine
[MBZ] sun roof removal
Do you need the special tool ( illustrated) to perform the job? Constantine
[MBZ] power steering pump failure
Just a further note on the subject of fluids. The Mercedes hydraulic oil does have an industrial equivalent which is used by the rebuilders. However, it is only available in 5 gallon containers and is a lot cheaper than the mb package. However, if you only need a few quarts, consider the space and cost. The rebuilder at Star Motors told me that they had made a test on the seals and o rings some time ago-the ones used in the Vickers pumps. They immersed those parts in various fluids including ATF and including the equivalent to the MB and the MB oil. Deterioration took placein all but the latter two. Constantine
[MBZ] Plain text
Jim: Plain text posted. Would you consider word perfect? ( My preference). Constantine
[MBZ] Repair facility
Does anyone have any experience with Star Motors in Endicott, NY? I am planning on sending them part of a power steering pump and have them install a seal. Constantine
[MBZ] 350sdl tandem pump +a/c clutch
For those of you who wish to add to your collection of photographs, I have two illustrating the air compressor with clutch removed and the new clutch with parts. Just make an additional note, there are two spacer washers that go into the very back of the clutch piece. They are very easy to overlook and easier to loose. Go to www.scaffolding.com/mb Regarding the tandem pump. The very front has treads on it for what appears to shaft removal. Does anyone know what size and kind they are? Constantine
[MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r
Update on the removal an replacement of the a/c clutch on the 350 sdl. On this model you do not need a puller. You do need a large monkey wrench with some copper on each jaw ( to protect the pulley). You can then hold the pulley with the wrench while you remove the nut with a box wrench. You will need a right angle snap ring pliers- preferably the Hazet. Also you need a straight snap ring pliers that will open to at least 40mm. Snap On makes one and Hazet # 1845 A-19 should do the job- the tool is for the back snap ring. The normal snap ring tools are only 1-7/16 at the widest opening and will not (as I have found) make life pleasant. Some time ago I designed a series of mandrels for such problem installation in hydraulic machinery. Basically, you make a sleeve the i.d.which will match the o.d. of the shaft with a setback for the next o.d.. The o.d of the sleeve should be 1mm larger than the o.d of the shaft offset. You then transfer the seal or ring from the sleeve to the shaft. All of this is if you really want to solve a repeat maintenance item. Constantine
[MBZ] 350 SDL A/C Clutch
At this point I am in the process of installing the magnet and could use some input. I am having trouble installing the snap ring. If anyone has done this work, what size snap ring pliers did you use or what kind of tool did you use to install the snap ring? Constantine
[MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r
Thanks all for your imput. If time permits I'll photograph the process and post it, together with the tools. Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r
Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so, do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not any good pitfalls? Thanks, Constantine
[MBZ] 350sdl noise up frontCan you give me a source for the bearing? If that doesn't work out I have two other options (1) purchase
Regarding the bearing on the compressor clutch, does anyone have a source for such? I checked the vulcanized rubber and it appear rather hard. Would this indicate that the clutch should be replaced ? ( My feeling) If so I have two other options (1) purchase a rebuilt clutch from MB at $ 123. or (2) purchase a new one (Meyle) from a local Philadelphia parts house for $ 175. Any comments ? Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] 350 SDL Noise up front
Sorry, I tried to cancel the previous post. Regarding the bearing on the compressor clutch, does anyone have a source for such? I checked the vulcanized rubber and it appear rather hard. Would this indicate that the clutch should be replaced ? ( My feeling) If so I have two other options (1) purchase a rebuilt clutch from MB at $ 123. or (2) purchase a new one (Meyle) from a local Philadelphia parts house for $ 175. Any comments ? Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] 350SDL-Noise up front-follow up
Marshall and Jim made suggestions regarding the possible parts which could be creating the noisy condition and the jittering shock absorber. I disengaged the belt and found that all of the pulleys were in reasonable condition, except one. It appears that the pulley (clutch) on the AC has a bit of horizontal play. I compared that play with the other pulleys-they had no play. I assume this is the item which has to be corrected. First, is there any adjustment that can be made to eliminate this play? If not, are these clutches repairable? If not is there a part number so that I can replace it? Any suggestions ? Constantine
[MBZ] 350SDL-motor identification
There is a simple way to identify a motor which has been rebuilt by Mercedes. The plate on the motor should indicate in German- Austauschmotor (or something like that). You can see the plate location by going to my website-and viewing the crate motor. The plate is on the rear of the motor, on the passenger's side, just above the transmission cooling line. A competitive source for such a motor is : I.G. Burton in Milford, DE ask for John Te. 302 424 3042 www.scaffolding.com/mb Constantine
[MBZ] 350sdl
The 350SDL is worth the the $ 5,600, for the chassis alone. You must count on replacing the motor- it will fail. The motor should be purchased as a rebuilt unit from Mercedes, with a 50,000 mile guarantee or 4 years. Do not consider any other options. To do this you must be prepared to perform the labor yourself or have deep pockets. Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] noise in front: 350sdl
I have a wierd noise in the of the motor, it appears to be comming from the belt tensioner ( not the chain tensioner). I changed the fan and clutch, the tensioner pulley, and the shock absorber. The shock absorber is constantly in motion an becomes very hot, the new one diminished the noise, but still got hot. Using a mechanics stethascope I could only find an increase in sound on the area of the tensioner-not the motor itself. I have not yet checked the tensioner for a possible loose socket head bolt.(100nm). Constantine
[MBZ] noise up front
Thanks Jim and Marshall. I was not really thinking of checking any of the new parts ( this is a new motor with only 10,000 miles on it). However, weird things do happen. I'll let you know latter this week. Sorry for the spelling error. Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] Noise in front
Omar, The sound is a low frequency murmur and can be heard at low 800 - 1500 rpm. In my case, I believe that Jim and Marshall identified the problem areas. Constantine
[MBZ] Chain tensioner
Re: 350SDL Are there different brands of chain tensioners? If so which should be purchased? Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] 350 sdl fan
I am getting a lot of noise from the fan area. The fan spins freely when the motor is not running (which I believe it did not do earlier). It also rotates when the motor is running. The fan is plastic and is not coming in contact with the shrouding. What needs to be replaced? Thanks for your thoughts. Constantine
[MBZ] 350SDL
First, let me say that Marshall is quite accurate in his views. I have a 350SDL which I purchased with full knowledge that it would self destruct, which it did. I am also very happy with this car. I did plan and ultimatle did install a MB rebuilt motor ( in house). Y;ou can see it at www.scaffolding.com/mb If you find a really good 350SDL I believe you will be very happy with it. That happiness can be achieved if the purchase price (factors in) the cost of a new motor. Constantine
[MBZ] paint damages
For those who believe in Murphy's law.. here are some photographs of my recent encounter with a discharge of sulfuric dioxide (which became sulfuric acid when it encountered the rain). On Saturday night I was driving past a local refinery when I smelled sulfuric acid and thought nothing of it, after all EPA is asleep on weekends. Sunday I discovered the damages. I did bring it to the attention of the refinery's general counsel, and will attempt to recover my costs. See: www.scaffolding.com/damages Constantine
[MBZ] glow plug collar nut
Does anyone have a spare collar nut for the glow plug? Or, can anyone provide me with the MB part number for it? The glow plug has a 6mm threaded stem and the nut is 6mm x 10mm accross flats. Thanks in adavance Constantine
[MBZ] SOS
As many have pointed out, one possibility is the oil cooler line. The passengers side line, at the connection point with the oil cooler should be examined. The hose, if not properly aligned, has a lot of stress on it at this point and will eventually leak. If you install new hoses on both sides, make sure you each fitting by hand first. When both ends have been hand tightened and the hose is in an unstressed condition, then tighten by using two wrenches- one for the female hose fitting and one for the male at each end. Constantine
[MBZ] 603 .971 engine base
In May 2004, I purchased a 603.971 ( a 603.970 rebuilt) engine from Mercedes at a cost of $ 5,745 delivered to my warehouse. Part No. 603-010 -30-02-88 It works very well, the oil consumption is now 1 liter in 4,200 miles (thats when the low light goes on-so I fill it with one liter which brings it up the the midpoint between min and max). The fuel consumption is also improving. I now get 450 miles per tankful. Every other tankful I note an improvement. I am convinced that this purchase was very cost effective. I also had a very substantial amount of support from the good listmembers. Much of this is at www.scaffolding.com/mb Constantine
[MBZ] Current latching relays 12 v
Telemecanique makes it. ( check their web site). They can vary in price depending upon the source. The problem is you need proper space and housing. Constantine
[MBZ] Blower fuse upgrade+ blower question
MB made that change to an external 30A fuse in the '91 350 SDL, as many of you pointed it out to me. I am trying to identify the two clips which hold the back of of the bottom of the blower motor housing. The clips are used to retain the back and are used in lieu of screws (to difficult to use a screwdriver). There are only two clips used in the whole blower assembly- I believe they are C type clips. Constantine
[MBZ] 350 SDL
The 350 SDL is a highly serviceable car. If the car has its original motor then you absolutely must factor in the cost of a new motor. Mercedes has solved the problems- but won't say how. It would be unwise to purchase anything but a rebuilt unit from MB- they have a plant in Berlin, where they rebuild these motors. You can see the motor at www.secaffolding.com/mb Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] R-12
On August 4, 2005, I ordered a 30# cylinder of R-12 from Donald Knieriem in Murray, KY. Tel. 270 293 9696. I prepaid him $ 435., as agreed- with my check. Today I got the material in excellent condition . Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] metric t fitting
Dave Check with Parker Hannifin- the EO series. A local hydraulic house (Parker Distributor) may have one. Constantine
[MBZ] WIS
Tom, I just learned about it after making a search: Workshop Information System. Constantine
[MBZ] blower motor info
For those of you with a 350 SDL or other models using the same blower motor, it is in fact a Bosch 0 130 111 017 and is made in Germany. A new unit has a resistance of 2.3 ohms. I'd appreciate any input regarding other units. Which models take the 0 130 111 001? What is their resistance in ohms? I'll be using this information to update my file and drawing which you can download from www.scaffolding.com/mb. Constantine
[MBZ] blower motor
Joe, Thank for your response. I contacted Bosch and learned that they have both motors available through their distributors. The two are 0130 111 017 and 0130 111 001 these are stand alone units and are not to be used interchangeably.. according to the Bosch rep. My observation is that there a 2 mm difference between the models. The 001 model is shorter, the shaft comes flush with end of the housing- which it not supposed to do- because you are supposed to install a retaining washer on the end- according to design. MB does not sell the motors seperately. Bosch does. Bosch also sell the same assembly fan and housing - the same one that MB does. Constantine
[MBZ] Blower motor 350SDL
I just received a new Bosch motor for the blower housing. For some reason it is 2 mm shorter than the original Bosch. With this version you can not install the original lock washer, as when the shaft protruded 2mm out of the fan. Did Bosch find that the lock washer was unnecessary and shortened the shaft or is there another model designed to protrude the 2 mm as the original? My original Bosch motor was 0 130 111 017. The replacement which I presently have ( which is 2 mm shorter- and has Only all 126) is 0 130 111 001. Constantine
[MBZ] blower motor update-illustrated
This file contains a drawing. blower motor.doc Description: MS-Word document
[MBZ] R12
I just ordered a 30# cylinder from Donald Knieriem in Hardin KT. Tel. 270 354 8710. Cost $ 395 plus $ 40 shipping. He has a few left. They are said to be virgin R-12, not reprocessed. Details off line. Constantine
[MBZ] Blower motor removal-350SDL
This is an update on an effective method to remove the blower motor from the fan. Tools: One 8 or larger steel C clamp One light copper hammer One 6 x 10 mm socket head screw A bit of Kroil Four 2 x 4 x 8 wood blocks Method: Soak the fan end of the motor spindle with Kroil. I waited overnight. A heavy steel or wood table is required. Place 2 blocks over each other on each side of the fan, which will then be suspended. Open the steel C clamp so the the socket screw will fit between it and the metal spindle of the motor and the base of the table. The socket end should be in contact with the clamp. Slowly...very slowly begin tightening the clamp, stop at each 1/8 of a turn and tap the clamp to send vibrations through the spindle. Wait 5-10 seconds each time to allow the parts to react. Keep up this process and you will suddenly hear a crack. You can then tighten it a bit faster and thereafter use the hammer to tap out the motor. Constantine
[MBZ] Blower motor 350 SDL
Thanks Jim and Trampas for your insight.. Does anyone have a good source for R12? The best I've been able to get is Refron 800 573 3766 at $420.for a 30# cylinder. I got certified a year ago to solve this problem. Anyone had either positive or negative experiences with this firm? Constantine
[MBZ] Blower motor 350 SDL
A few weeks ago the fuse blew for the blower motor. Thanks to all for identifying the problem and and the location. The fuse actually appeared to be ok but in fact had broken at the edge. The reason for this break appears to to be a defective blower motor. In the high speed mode it sometimes begins to smoke. I am now about to replace it but would like to know if there there is any problem or disadvantage in replacing the actual motor instead of the complete motor fan assembly. There is a difference of $ 160. between the two. Regards, Constantine
[MBZ] 350 SDL blower motor etc.
Marshall (and others) The next morning, when I started the blower motor functioned for about 5 minutes then became inactive for the rest of the day. Is the controler in a two part aluminum housing under the driver's side near the cruise control module? Do you know what ohms the blower motor should draw ? Any trouble shooting suggestions ? Constantine Blower not working at all will result from a blown fuse (F15 in aux holder), from failed control voltage supply from the pushbutton controller (measure the voltage on the yellow wire from the pushbutton unit to the solid state controller module [called the porcupine because of the appearance of it's heat sink] which should move from 3-9V depending on the speed requested) failure of the solid state module or the motor itself failing.. Marshall
[MBZ] Re: 350SDL blower and SRS
Thanks Trampas, Marshall and Ken. Constantine
