Re: [MBZ] 85 300D monovalve

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Michael wrote:

> The latest symptoms are good heat at belowq 2000 RPM’s but then
> heat would cut out completely at any thing over 2000.

Classic symptoms of damaged diaphragm in the monovalve.

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[MBZ] Oil

[fmiser via Mercedes]

In some of my research I came across reference to this site.  They
are an independent (they say) that analyses unused oil to
determine it's compliance to the label and the standards.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/


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Re: [MBZ] Clay's tire issues could be resolved with this

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> tyee165 wrote:

> Need a means of bolting to the floor in a manner that permits
> removal. Must be some sort of threaded insert for concrete.

Yup.  That was what I had in mind with the comment 
  "I figure I could put nut-anchors in the concrete and only bolt
   the changer in place when I need it."

Something like this should do the job.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/50403


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Re: [MBZ] Clay's tire issues could be resolved with this

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Randy wrote:
> > >
> > > https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-62317.html
> > >
> > > The biggest issue then is where to install it. If need be, I
> > > think it could be bolted to a 4X4 square of plywood so that
> > > it could be used without permanent installation in one's
> > > garage. 

> > fmiser wrote:
> > 
> > Might work, but there is a _lot_ of force applied.  Something
> > more secure than a loose piece of wood may be required.

> Mitch wrote:
> 
> The wood isn't effectively loose if you're standing on it while
> you operate the machine. That way it's self contained with the
> tool and the power source on the same platform.

So it would seem - but though I have not done it, I have read
about folks who have and what I've seen says "not so good".  Maybe
its the jerking action, maybe it's that 4ft isn't enough.

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Re: [MBZ] Clay's tire issues could be resolved with this

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Randy wrote:

> https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-62317.html

> The biggest issue then is where to install it. If need be, I
> think it could be bolted to a 4X4 square of plywood so that it
> could be used without permanent installation in one's garage. 

Might work, but there is a _lot_ of force applied.  Something more
secure than a loose piece of wood may be required.

I've thought about fabricating a way to mount a machine like that
to a 2-inch box-receiver hitch.  I have multiple cars with that
hitch, and I don't think I could ever apply enough force to
overload the receiver or move the car.  The car would wiggle on
the suspension, though. 

Bolted to the concrete would be better, but not as portable.  I
figure I could put nut-anchors in the concrete and only bolt the
changer in place when I need it.

Maybe both...

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Re: [MBZ] Taking rust free cars to Michigan

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Buggered wrote:

> The Sheikh liked to go roar around the desert in his LM400s. 

LM-400?  

Lamborghini made an LM002 in the late 1980s.  Serious car. I
remember wishing I could take one for an off-road spin back when
they came out.  I recall a lot of them went to rich Saudis.

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Re: [MBZ] Best rust and corrosion solvent

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> archer75--- wrote:


> BTW, do you know the name of that really good anti-rust paint
> I've read about on this list? I want to paint the tin roof on
> the storage shed since it's getting a little rusty.

Not rust-proofing, but Coroseal is what I've been using to convert
the rust to paintable primer.

http://www.corroseal.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Corroseal-82331-Water-Based-Converter-Gallon/dp/B00RYRJGXO/

Good stuff.

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Re: [MBZ] Useless Gauges

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> M. wrote:

> One of these days, I wanna lose the old analog car phone in my
> W210, move the radio to the bottom and put a DIN instrument
> panel in the middle.  I'm thinking oil pressure, voltmeter with
> ammeter charge warning light and...I dunno, vacuum?

Temperature of engine oil, transmission oil, and differential oil.

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Re: [MBZ] Useless Gauges

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> This is so easy to do these days - there’s an app (one of many
> out there) that uses an ODBII dongle with Bluetooth and your
> phone or tablet to display just about every parameter available
> through the diagnostic port.

Totally useless if the owner is smart enough to have an old enough
car to pre-date electronic controls and OBD.

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Re: [MBZ] Rock Auto

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan--- wrote:

> Any reason I shouldn’t use Rock Auto for a Bosch reman starter?

I did.  Worked well for me.

I really appreciated that they let me use their shipping account
to return the core.  It cost me about $12.00 (deducted from the
core charge) to ship my core to CA.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: DIY Shed framing kit for $42.00

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> I want this in the worst way.  Anyone have any good reasons for
> not getting it?

The roof depends on the top steel joint for roof load.  It is not
a truss nor a rafter roof.  Heavy roof load could be a problem.
The longer the side walls the more it will be a problem.  Adding a
tie from one wall to the other (not shown in the picture) will
solve that problem - but also lower the interior clearance.

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Re: [MBZ] 240d cooling system flush

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Mitch wrote:

> 
> Without a drain cock in the bottom of the block,

OM61x have a block drain. Just forward of the starter motor.  I
access it with a long extension through the starboard forward
wheel well.

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Re: [MBZ] 240d linkage

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> On this 240d the linkage that comes from the pedal has 2 prongs
> that stick into the linkage on the engine and should have 2
> plastic busing things in the holes. On this car the plastic
> parts are mostly missing so the pedal had to go about half way
> down before it starts moving the linkage.

I used short pieces of rubber hose on those prongs.  Inside
dimension small enough to make it a snug fit.  Still holding up
well after more than a year.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Andrew needs a dually truck

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Grant wrote:
> > 
> > Perfect !  It has "Andrew" stamped all over it... Should fit
> > all the garden shop stuff nicely... and impress the
> > neighbors...

Is it a 1985?

> Mitch wrote:
> 
> I think I might build myself an El Camino for my 55th birthday. 
> I've been seeing reports of 2.0L Camaros doing 12.0 in the 1/4
> mile with minimal modifications. What if I bought one that was
> hit in the rear and made a carbon fiber/styrofoam truck bed for
> it?

Extra points if you put a Detroit Diesel in it an set it up so it
will dump huge quantities of unburned fuel out the exhaust. (roll
coal)  Max points if it's a 2 stroke, but even a 6.2/6.5 L will do.



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Re: [MBZ] Who Has A W123...

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> I have one of these kits that I got for my former W123 but never
> installed it. If a list member has a W123 that doesn’t have the
> relocated fuse/holder I’ll gift it to them for the cost of
> shipping.


Oooh!  I could use one!  Or 3 or 4...

If it's not already spoken for - I'll take it!  Send me a note
off-list with address and total and I'll get money on it's way to
you.


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Re: [MBZ] OT Start of a Lister 4 Cylinder by hand

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Kaleb wrote:
> > I’m pretty sure my jd tractor has a yanmar. Yep.
> > 
> https://www.deere.com/en/tractors/utility-tractors/3-family-compact-utility-tractors/3032e-compact-utility-tractor/

> Curley wrote:

> yes, but that is not exactly a garden tractor.

But the JD 430 is.  Made 1984 to 1992.  Yanmar engine.

http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/0/4/44-john-deere-430.html

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Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> My small scale experiment was half an ounce of oil in a tuna can, as it got 
> hot it'd spit and
> pop, 

> The plan  right now is to use a turkey fryer and a metal 5
> gallon bucket.

> I just want to nudge 100C, maybe hold it there for a little while. 

> ..and I don't want to damage the oil by overheating it.

Information from 700R4 (GM) transmission experts
 + OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT OIL PAN OR SUMP:
   + 150° F, 50° C
 + The minimum operating temperature. Note: It is possible
   in low ambient temperatures to overcool the
   transmission with auxiliary oil to air coolers. Oil to
   water coolers in standard factory radiators will
   normally not overcool a transmission.
   + 175-200° F, 80-95° C
 + Normal pan oil temperature operating range.
   + 275° F, 135° C
 + Maximum allowable oil pan temperature for short
   durations during long hill climbs.
   + 300° F, 150° C
 + Damage occurs to internal transmission parts, including
   warpage of metal parts, degradation of clutches, and
   melting of seals. Transmission oil oxidizes, (forming
   varnish-like substances causing further clutch slippage
   and compounding heat build up) and transmission oil
   life is extremely short.


I'd say 100 to 120 C should be just fine.  And if you have a
vented lid on the 5 gallon can, it should not matter if it spits.

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Re: [MBZ] Today's fun

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> The jack and tools are supposed to be under the front seat. The
> jack was there, nothing else was. I need to call some junkyards.

So how long have you been driving this car - without basic service
tools?7

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Re: [MBZ] Water in ATF?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?

I have a funnel with a filter that lets gasoline through, but not
water.  I don't know if it will work with transmission fluid.  I
don't know if I'll have time to try that today...

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Re: [MBZ] OM352 LA

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> ... and it needs an new exhaust manifold. The latter
> we've known about for years but its recently gotten much worse.
> Apparently Pisten Bully can actually come up with the real thing
> for just over $1000.

Is it repairable?  Cast iron can be welded - with care.
Experience is good too.

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Re: [MBZ] LED bulbs

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Randy wrote:

> Not sure if it applies to automotive bulbs, but my architect son
> advises that over time, LED bulbs fade away. His firm had a
> presentation by some manufacturer or vendor of lighting and were
> advised that LED bulbs get less bright over time.

Correct for white LEDs.  Those are much like a fluorescent in
that the light energy generated is used to make phosphor "glow".
The phosphor "wears out" over time.

Red, green, yellow LEDs do not have this problem.  They generate
the light we see directly.

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Re: [MBZ] Video: LED Installation and Common Issues – Moss Motoring

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> I’m a little confused by the comments on the Moss Motots Page,
> however. They talk about the inability to use LEDs in a positive
> ground system.  That doesn’t make sense to me, as I would simply
> reverse the LED.  I’m not sure why that wouldn’t work

It will - but I have not seen any pre-manufactured LED lamps for
incandescent direct replacement.  Those all seem to be neg ground.

But it would not be at all difficult to build one with a bridge
rectifier so it would not be polarity particular.  Again, I have
not seen one.

But then Google finds me a 6 volt...


Or is it.  1157 and 1156 are 12V part numbers.  I'm not sure what
to believe!

And a Brit.
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-bulbs-especially-for-motorcycles-shop.php

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Re: [MBZ] OT Wonder what these will cost

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curley wrote:

> Can anyone guess why the car builders love to sell trucks and
> SUVs?

Less regulations, lower build cost, higher sell price, and the buyers want them.

Next?

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Re: [MBZ] Subject: Re: 49 Battery

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Bob wrote:
>  IS an AGM battery worth it?? 

I don't know.  Lots of people say good things about them.  But if
it is twice the price, I should get twice the life.  I'm not sure
it adds up.

> How can I check if starter is good ??  83 240D

Well - put in a new one and see if it's fixed?  *smiles*

The battery and the starter are a system.  Either one can cause
very similar symptoms.  

A failing starter will draw more current.  So a DC ammeter that
can read more than 500 A can be used.  My note, which are not as
clear as I would like, suggest that the starter for my OM616 with
a good battery and warm weather would draw about 250 A.  Not clear
is if this was a bench test...  

If the battery is good, turn on the interior light and watch it
when cranking.  It should dim, but not go out - or nearly out.   

A weak battery or a failing starter will cause the light to go
out, or practically go out.

A bad cable or connection will cause the light to dim very little.

Or a volt meter, measuring the voltage drop along the
battery-starter cable.  This is most effective if you have a
known-good reading to compare.  I'm not finding my notes on what I
found to be "normal"...  

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Re: [MBZ] 49 Battery

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Rdeafboy wrote:

> Anybody use AGM type battery??

AGM is functionally a drop-in replacement for flooded cell battery
in a car.  Charge voltage is close enough it seems to work out
just fine.

Are they better than flooded cell?  They cost more, so AGM must be
better - right?

> My Interstate whosesaler is out of the 49 now

What about a group 93? 

I built a chart of showing the DIN and EN numbers as well as the
BCI. I have failed to figure out why there are two DIN numbers...

NOTE 1: all of these batteries are 175 mm wide, so I did not
list that dimension.

NOTE 2: The batteries with a "b4" holddown may be a problem
for 123 cars.  I don't know the clamping range of the
factory clips.

NOTE 3: This chart is in the same order as the last listing -
descending volume as calculated from the maximum
exterior dimensions.  With all else equal, greater
volume should equal greater capacity - unless the
calculated volume does not compare to the internal
volume.  

| BCI |DIN| EN   | length | height | Holddown |
|-+-+-+--+++--|
|  49 | H8  | L5  | 88L5 |354 |190 | b3   |
|  93 | T8  | LB5 | 88LB |354 |175 | b3   |
| 94R | H7  | L4  | 77L4 |315 |190 | b3   |
|  92 | T7  | LB4 | 77LB |315 |175 | b3   |
| 98R | H6  | 3   | 66L3 |283 |190 | b4   |
|  48 | H6  | L3  | 66L3 |278 |190 | b3   |
|  41 | T65 | | 54LB |293 |175 | b4   |
| 40R | T6  | LB3 | 66LB |278 |175 | b1   |
|  91 | T6  | LB3 | 66LB |278 |175 | b3   |
| 97R | H5  | L6  |  |252 |190 | b4   |
|  47 | H5  | L2  | 55L2 |242 |190 | b3   |
| 96R | | |  |242 |175 | b5   |
|  90 | T5  | LB2 | 45LB |242 |175 | b3   |
|  42 | T5  | LB2 | 45LB |242 |175 | b4   |
| 67R | | |  |132 |176 | b2   |
| 99R | T4  | LB1 | 36LB |210 |175 | b3   |


Holddowns
 b1 - 10.5 mm high, long side only
 b2 - ?? high, short side only
 b3 - 10.5 mm high on long and short sides
 b4 - 19.0 mm high, long side only
 b5 - ?? high, long side only

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Holy Falling Frozen Florida lizards!

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> As in Tejas, we have large groups of turkey vultures, which
> perform an amazing community service by clearing roads and
> pretty much and open areas of dead animals.

Is that year 'round?  Or are there more of them in the winter?
I'm asking because most of the turkey vultures around here depart
for the winter.  A sure sign of spring is their return.

And speaking of raptors, a couple days ago I saw an american
kestrel kiting near the road, and a few minutes later a bald eagle
flew over.

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Re: [MBZ] Battery voltmeter-indicator

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curley wrote:

> I wonder if this would be useful on one of our old cars?

My opinion?  Not very.  Best I can tell in reading the copy is it
is a digital volt meter.  I'm not fond of digital gauges because I
don't scan them as easily.

The percent-of-full is not going to be very useful since it seems
to be simply a voltage report.  And so if the blower fan, and
headlights, and wipers are on it will be showing less than 100%
even when all is well.

It could be useful to check the battery voltage when the car is
off...

> 

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Holy Falling Frozen Florida lizards!

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> G wrote:

> For those of you who have never been hunting:
> 
> https://www.helibacon.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4idlNjG2AIVCYGzCh2DTgeaEAAYAiAAEgJ2w_D_BwE

I guess I'm picky.

The copy says "...M16 in your hands." and a bit later "Reload the
machine gun and engage."

*sigh*

Even at full auto an M16 is not a machine gun...

Of course, it makes me suspicious of the accuracy of everything
else on the site.

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Re: [MBZ] Battery storage

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> G wrote:

> With a solar battery  bank, the charge level will not reach 100%
> if you have a weak battery. It will draw down the strong
> batteries to it's level. 

Correct.  That is the inherent problem with a pure parallel system.

> No worries...
> 
> Identify with load tester, pull out the weak and replace with
> strong... 

Ah.  If the goal is a off-grid battery - yes.  If the goal is to
store a pile of used batteries with the minimum of aging, not so
workable.


> As for hydrogen gas... a small 12V blower attached to a manifold
> made of lightweight PVC tubes with one side slotted and laying
> over the vent caps will solve that issue.

Be sure to keep the blower motor brushes away from the hydrogen!!

> Sun comes up, 12V blower comes on, vents are evacuated outside
> so hydrogen does not accumulate.

Don't even need a blower if you can build an upside down drain
system.  Put the pipe in so there is at least a 1/4" per foot
up-slope and the hydrogen will "drain" up and out.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Holy Falling Frozen Florida lizards!

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> That’s not hunting, that’s eradication.  Hunting would imply
> tracking and stalking your prey.

Tracking and stalking is - well, tracking and stalking.  Hunting
is "go looking for prey".  I see no requirement for tracking, or
stalking, or hiding in a blind, or being "sporting" in "hunting".
YMMV

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Re: [MBZ] Battery storage

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> M. wrote:

> I don't think your average auto charger could do more than 2-3
> at once, tops.

If it's just a trickle charge, yes.  If each trickle change is not
more than 0.5 A, a 10 A charger could manage 20.

But if you just connect them all in parallel, they may not each
get what they need and so the failing ones could cause damage to
the good ones.

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Re: [MBZ] Battery storage

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> Over the years I have acquired dozens of group 49 batteries. 

> So anyway, I have been thinking for years of a way to have a
> rack of batteries stored, but have them wired up in parallel and
> have a float charger or maintainer hooked to the bank of
> batteries. 

> What do you guys think of this? How many batteries do you think
> could be wired up in this bank of batteries and hooked to one
> charger?

I like it!  

Some considerations to keep in mind, though:  Each battery will
survive best if it has it's own "regulation".  That could be as
simple as a big 14.4 V supply and connect each battery through a
resistor.

If it's on a charger all the time, keep an eye on the "water"
level.

A charging battery will generate hydrogen gas - which is _very_
flammable.  It is very light and floats up in air about 1/2 the
speed of gravity, so it clears out pretty quick - but make sure
there isn't a place it can collect especially near a possible
spark.


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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> tyee165 wrote:

> Is that the block drain in the lower right of the photo?

Referring to Craig's email set Sat, 6 Jan 2018 11:48:50 -0700
filename  om617.block.heater.jpg

Yes. That is the block drain.

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Re: [MBZ] Ice vs X5

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Curt wrote:
> >
> > We each have several pairs of studded rubber things you put on
> > your shoes. Work a treat for walking in icy conditions. 

> Craig wrote:
> 
> Those things are helpful, some more than others.
> 
> When I was at Los Alamos National Laboratory, we were given some
> Yaktrax to increase safety (see first picture attached). They
> are described as having abrasion-resistant 1.2 mm steel coils
> for superior grip on packed snow.
> 
> They are lousy on glare ice because the coils do not bite into
> the ice.

Curious.  The picture is small, but it appears to be much the same
as "cable" style tire "chains" that I have found to be _very_
effective on ice.  Maybe the force is not concentrated enough on a
shoe.

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Re: [MBZ] plaintext - was: Groomer report

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Curt wrote
> >
> > How did you get the formatting to stick? The listserv seems to
> > hate Yahoo mail... 

> Craig wrote:
> 
> I just replied to your email and edited the URLs, putting them on
> separate lines from all the other text, so there was a CR-LF at
> the end of the URL before the next text.

And Craig is using a plain text email client. *smiles*

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Re: [MBZ] Yahoo web mail - was: Groomer report

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> How did you get the formatting to stick? The listserv seems to
> hate Yahoo mail... 

Listserver, like a proper email server does NOT like HTML formated email.  

Try sending as "plain text"

I found this instruction site.  I cannot vouch for it's accuracy.
May not even be the right version.

http://www.freeemailtutorials.com/yahooMailTutorials/sendEmailsAsPlainTextFromYahooMail.php


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Re: [MBZ] Groomer report

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> So as a follow up to my getting the ASV started yesterday I
> thought maybe you'd like to see it:

Cool.  I've read about your working with them, but never bothered
to figure out what they look like.

> comparison:https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4692/38831788994_6328cf950f_b.jpg

> https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4726/27764530599_98f43af108_b.jpgThis

> https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4686/24672933297_09ca494cab_b.jpgThis

> https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4637/38644526375_720c498458_b.jpgThis

> seat:https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4680/38831785094_b125ba296a_b.jpgI

This is what your links look like because there isn't a space
before and after.  Only the first one loaded without editing.
Presumably, if you add a space just before and just after the link
it would work okay.  But it seems the Yahoo web client can be
un-helpful at times.

> we met at 7:30 ... Got home at 3am

Ugh! 

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Re: [MBZ] Ice vs X5

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Jim wrote:

> This turned out to be one of the skating rink thaw days that
> plague our hill, 

> I figured that if I could just get unstuck I could probably get
> to the bottom of the hill OK.

> The only other real option was to call for a tow out, which
> would have left us very vulnerable to being part of a wreck
> during the no-doubt lengthy time it would have taken a
> chain-equipped tow truck to arrive.

> It worked!

Well done!  I'm not (yet) qualified for issuing "Atta Boy"s so I
just have to say, "Way to go!"  A practical understanding of
physics wins again.

> Lessons for SWMBO in the future, on such days:
> 
> 1) Stay home!
> 2) Use the Hill Descent Mode.

Lesson for Jim - get chains for the Unimog. *smiles*

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Re: [MBZ] Leaf/snow blower

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> WILTON wrote:

> Coupla  weeks ago, I needed a leaf blower...  Found
> battery-operated, 60 volt model 

60 V - is that a DeWalt?  Just curious.

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Re: [MBZ] Data at risk! was: More cars for CL

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curley wrote:

> Show me a SPC control chart of the (actual, not tampered) temps
> going back say 500 or 1000 years, and you will see nothing is
> out of control. 

Seems that tampered data is considered "at risk".  There was
concern that the data might be removed from the web by the current
administration.

https://www.livescience.com/57879-coders-saving-nasa-climate-data.html
https://www.wired.com/2017/02/diehard-coders-just-saved-nasas-earth-science-data/

Those articles are almost a year old.  I have not checked to see
if the information has been corrected.

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Re: [MBZ] Mitch Needs This

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> G wrote:

> At full load only 1 gallon per hour is "conservative".  I have
> owned 6 of these engines, presently own one 8V92 [same
> cylinders, just 2 more of them].
> 
> Plan for 2 to 3 gallons per hour at full load 

Do you mean "minute" not "hour"?

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Re: [MBZ] OM 617 glow plug relay

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Andrew wrote:
> > > 
> > > Block heater was definitely buggered due to frayed cord.

> > Curley wrote:
> >
> > And HOW MANY TIMES WERE YOU TOLD TO CHANGE THE CORD

> Andrew replied:
> 
> Don't be a schmuck - the cord isn't sold separately.

Ah!  But it _is_ sold separately.  Or was.

> > > New block heater has been installed without incident.

So "your" mechanic replaced the entire heater because the cord was
bad?

Whatever

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Re: [MBZ] OM 617 glow plug relay

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Rick wrote:

> I suspect the cables are universal, but I am not 100 percent
> sure. This one looks very familiar. 

There are two different heater ends used on OM6ix.  I don't
remember the difference, or which car needed which one - but I
have worked with two different types.  NOT interchangeable.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mesh WiFi Networks

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> Anyone here done a mesh wifi network in their house with an Eero
> or similar hardware?
> 
> I’m giving it some thought as a replacement for the dual band
> wifi I currently run that just barely covers the whole house.

Not mesh, but I _really_ like all of the Ubiquity hardware I've
used.  Put in a UniFi "LR" (long range) and I would expect you to
have good coverage over the whole house.  And if one won't do it,
run wires to two of them an they can "share" an ESSID and
seamlessly switch.  Also supports dual ESSID so one can be setup
as "guest" access. It's more trouble to setup as it is managed via
a server, but that isn't needed for runtime unless you need to do
fancy stuff.

Here is a link to one of them.  There are others to choose from too:
https://www.a1securitycameras.com/ubiquiti-uap-lr-us.html
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/


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Re: [MBZ] Front brake calipers

[fmiser via Mercedes]

>  Clean and full.  I did have some
> brake fluid trouble earlier that did activate the brake lamp.
> Would it be the brake wear sensors?  And why would the manual
> not indicate what the lamp is?
> 
> 
> clay 
> 
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 1982 300 SD - Allen
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Jan 3, 2018, at 7:05 PM, Craig via Mercedes
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > >clay wrote:
> > >
> > > For a week or two there has been a flashing red idiot light
> > > coming on in the w126.  In the SDL it is between the glow and
> > > SRS.  It is on steady now.  My OM does not give any
> > > indication what this even is.

> > Craig wrote:
> > 
> > Low brake fluid?

 clay wrote:

> The DOT 3 is good in both.

Oooh.  Is DOT3 bad for the new(er) car hoses too?  For the 123 and
115 era DOT3 cause the hoses to swell.  DOT4 is the right stuff to
use.

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-12509-Dot-Brake-Fluid/dp/B0093PHU9C/
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7668756

> Would it be the brake wear sensors?  And why would the manual not
> indicate what the lamp is?

Is there a icon or picture with the light?  Or is it just a plain,
red bright spot?  (Not that I would no anything about a W126
dashboard...)

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Re: [MBZ] Black ice

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Floyd wrote:

> Johns Island.  To get to Kiawah, Seabrook, and Wadmalaw Islands
> one has to transit Johns Island.  We have 2 bridges on/off.

I'm disappointed...

In reading your posts over the years I have imagined a 3 or 5 mile
long causeway connecting the island to the mainland.

I just used GoogleEarth to look you up.  It's an island because of
a river...  The bridge on Main road is only 700 or so ft long.
Which is about the same as the Mississippi river - in Minneapolis!

I know.  The land is low, the ocean nearby, bridges to cross to
get to almost anything.  But my romantic mental image is crushed!

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Re: [MBZ] Eiskalt.

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Fred wrote:

> Put foam insulation on pipes and filled the hard to access void
> with foam. This bloody foam sticks to everything, fingers, coat,
> hat, pipes,the can itself, but the darn stuff will not stick to
> brick or wood without much encouragement, mostly verbal!

If possible, clean off the surface you want it to stick to.  I
know, hard to do down in a crevice.  Compressed air to at least
blow out the dust can help.

I've found acetone works well to clean it up.  I have even
successfully used the second half of a can months later after
cleaning out the nozzle.

Be careful with the acetone.  It is highly flammable, dissolves
all oils (including in your skin), and will dissolve many
plastics and most paint.

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Re: [MBZ] 13 degree failed diesel starts

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Gerry wrote:

> Putting in a new one can be a messy and difficult job in icy
> weather; even for a DIYer.

One feature I really like about the OM61x engines is the effective
and easy to get to block drain.  Using a kinda long extension from
the front starboard wheel well remove the block drain.

Catching all the coolant can be a challenge, but since the drain
is NOT opened from above your hands or face, it really pretty nice.

Getting the old heater out is not quite so simple since the
starter and braces and turbo and air filter housing get in the
way.  If my memory is correct, with the block drained coolant
doesn't run out when the heater is removed.

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Re: [MBZ] It's cold

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curley wrote:

> Taking the PLUG out of the block requires 1) 6' breaker; 2)
> major beating; 3) Flame wrench; 4) All of these.
> 
> Taking the HEATER out can usually be done with a 12" channellock
> or similar.

Correct.

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Re: [MBZ] 13 degree failed diesel starts

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Curt wrote:
> > 
> > Being on the edge of the country seems to be an advantage, we
> > don't have those super huge truckstops in New England.

Maybe an advantage to non-drivers...

> Mitch wrote:
> 
> Being crowded causes that. It's hard for truckers to find
> overnight parking in New England because there isn't room for
> fuel stations with 10 acre parking lots.

Hear! Hear!  Crowded roads, small lots, ornery attitudes, and no
parking.  THAT is a drivers view of the north east.

One night (in CT, I think) I was wanted to spend the night within
50 miles of the delivery site.  I needed sleep, my log book said I
was out of hours to drive, and I spent more than 2 hours looking
for a safe (low danger to cars) place to park - I gave up on
finding a lawful parking spot after 1/2 hour...  I believe I ended
up on the shoulder of a 4 lane road close to an on ramp.

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Re: [MBZ] It's cold

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> No warmth whatsoever.  I guess mine is a virtual block heater.

One hour is not enough time for a dependable hand test.

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Re: [MBZ] It's cold

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> 12 deg. this AM.  I parked facing UPhill on Sunday rather than
> facing downhill.  This morning I plugged it in as usual for an
> hour

One hour?  

The system won't reach equilibrium for at least 4 hours.  As with
any fixed heat output setup, the early time is more effective than
the later.  But you may not feel the engine warm after only one
hour.  Allow at least 4 hours plugged to get a dependable reading
with your hand an the temperature probe.

> but it wouldn't start.  Could the slope (up vs. down) have
> made a difference?

I have never seen evidence that it did.

When I plug mine in, I listen for the "hot coffee pot" sound
caused by the heater in the coolant.  It has to be rather quiet to
hear it, but if you open the hood and stick your ear down toward
the starter (under the air cleaner) you should be able to hear it.

If you don't hear it, GET AN OHM METER AND TEST IT!

*sigh*

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Re: [MBZ] Auto Parts Warehouse

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > fmiser sez:
> >
> >‎ Except on Andrew's car. I recall he still has it on.

> Rick wrote:
>
> That's the car he sold. 
> This one is an '83 300TD.

I'm not keeping up!

But then it was kinda pointless for Dan to check EPC on an '85...

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Re: [MBZ] Auto Parts Warehouse

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> ...it will clear the trap oxidizer (a moot point now, of course):

Except on Andrew's car.  I recall he still has it on.

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Re: [MBZ] Auto Parts Warehouse

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> I looked up an 85 300TD and Bosch only shows one part, an SR70X
> (remanufactured).
> 
> https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/alternators-and-starters/remanufactured-starters?partId=SR70X

Hmm.  My notes show a SR67x is the starter for the turbo motors,
the non-turbo starter is no longer available, and the turbo
starter is a bolt-in upgrade for a non-turbo motor.

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Re: [MBZ] It's cold

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Curt wrote:
> > >
> > > PV has a very long payback period. Much better to install
> > > solar hotwater, last I checked it'd pay for itself in 3-5
> > > years.

> > Andrew  wrote: 
> >
> > Bologna.  Prices for PV have plummeted.

> Curt wrote:

> You also don't get the rated output. We've got 3x 100w panels at
> camp. On a 12v system that ought to mean that in full sun we
> make 300/12 or 25 amps. I think part of; the problem is
> "optimistic" ratings from the manufacturer...

Curt!  

You've _got_ to stop using real data from real world situations in
these arguments!  Theories, promises, and news reports only.
Independent reports paid for by parties with vested interest can
be used, but with caution.


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Re: [MBZ] Starter choice

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> Advance auto offers Delco and Bosch starters.  Fairly
> significant price difference.  Any good reason to spring for the
> Bosch?

The Bosch starters last longer and run better than any of others
I've tried.  From my reading, I'm not the only one with that experience.

ON 2014-11-18 Peter F wrote: "The problem with the diesel starters
is that usually the coil windings have acquired too much
resistance, and if you don't replace the armature, you will
still have a weak, high current draw starter.  New bushing and
turning the commutator will do very little to fix it.  So far
as I know, only Bosch rewinds the armatures"


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Re: [MBZ] Another oil thread?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> Why do I have an aversion to the idea of getting “food grade
> grease” from Amsoil?

Food grade grease if for the machines that handle food.  If you
have a meat band saw, do you want non-food grade grease on the
bandwheel bearings?

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Re: [MBZ] Cold starting you diesel

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > fmiser wrote:
> > 
> > Just high RPM isn't enough, so running the engine against the
> > governor in a low gear isn't effective.  It is the heat caused
> > by max power and high RPM that clears junk out.

> Gerry wrote:
>
> Well, guess I'll have to wait until a trip to Georgia or beyond
> since we don't have any hills to speak of here in Florida. The
> only way I can think of to do what you suggest would be to pull
> a heavy loaded trailer at high speed on Floridas flat roads.

I have considered an aerodynamic load would be best.  Something
like a sailboat with the sail set athwart.  The faster the car
goes, the "heavier" the load - but without the weight.

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Re: [MBZ] Cold starting you diesel

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> archer75--- wrote:

> My '83 300D (same drivetrain as yours), which also doesn't get
> driven much, does the same thing. It sort of "hammers" and
> shakes the engine at idle in any kind of weather. 

> I vaguely recall that carbon buildup isq supposed to be the
> cause and the cure is to lug the engine up a long grade with the
> engine temp topping out. 

Not lug!  Lugging is high load, low RPM.  That is not good for any
engine.  What you want to clean out the engine is high cylinder
temperatures.  So high load, high rpm, full fuel.  There are a
couple hills around here that are big enough and long enough and I
try to "treat" the engine every time I climb them.  The turbos
need a bigger hill to do it well.

Just high RPM isn't enough, so running the engine against the
governor in a low gear isn't effective.  It is the heat caused by
max power and high RPM that clears junk out.

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Re: [MBZ] Cold starting you diesel

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curley wrote:

> The OM621/61x starters are basically tractor
> or truck starters.  Very durable.

And the danger in long cranking is heat.  If the situation is
sub-freezing cold-start, heat is not much of an issue.

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Re: [MBZ] Cold starting issue - glow plugs?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> On my W123 300TD, I am having a hard time getting it started
> when the temperature dips below 20 F despite the car being
> plugged into the block heater.  It takes 2 minutes of multiple
> glows and attempts before I can get it fired up. Once I get it
> started the engine runs as if it were preheated.
> 
> Question: Does this sound like a glow plug issue?  Do the plugs
> wear out or simply fail?  If one is dead will the other 4 start
> the car, albeit laboriously?

With a working block heater, I expect even my tired car to start
one dead glow plug.  I think it started with two dead glow plugs
- after the block heater was on for an hours at a temperature of
about 0 C (32 F).

Hard starting when cold is usually tight valves, failed glow
plugs, - or low compression.

Glow plugs are easy to test.  I'll post again my preferred method
using an automotive ammeter if anyone wants details.

Valve lash isn't hard, but it involves removing a bunch of the
ugly '85 stuff along with the rocker arm cover.  And fingertips
will become black from the engine oil.

A compression test requires special tools.  But if the other two
are okay, then it's probably compression.


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Re: [MBZ] Truck for sale

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Craig wrote:
> > 
> > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/302579536655?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123

> > Fmiser replied:
> > 
> > Nice truck!
> 
> Thank you, Philip.

> > 40,000 lb tandems is a bonus and allows for over-weight
> > hauling. 13 speed transmission is an odd mate for the tandems,
> > though...

> Craig wrote:
> 
> I didn't think a 13-speed was an odd mate for 40,000 lb tandems.

40,000 lb tandem is a heavy axle to drag around unless it is
expected to gross over 80,000.  And my experience is that the deep
low gears of a 15 speed - or an 18 speed - are much more suited to
those kinds of loads.  But, the only ones I drove were all
mechanical 14 L Cummins (BC3) and so maybe the "modern" 2007
engine has a wide enough torque band that a 13 speed is just fine
at 90,000 GVW.  Terrain also makes a difference.  CO, MT, PA, etc
are more demanding than TX, OK, KS, NE, IA, IL, MO, etc.

My first-hand experience is now getting out-of-date.

> > No mention of the steer axle weight capacity.  Typical is not
> > more than 20,000.
> 
> Steer axle is 12,000 lb. The GVWR is 52,000 lb.

That's normal for a OTR truck.  With the 40,000 lb tandem, I was
expecting the steer to be 14,000 lb or a bit more.  I drove one
truck with (I think) 16,000 steer.  It was rather handy to be able
to shift the load to the steer if the front of the trailer was
heavy to keep the axle loading legal.  

> > pre-EPA is good too!
> 
> Yes, indeed! I pray someone else thinks so, too.

I see quite a few for sale that seem proud of that feature.  I
_know_ I would prefer one - but I'd probably choose _much_ older
if I actually got to choose.

> I put an ad in 4 geographical sections of Truck Paper for 4
> weeks and got many calls. Unfortunately, all but one were from
> people who wanted to help me sell it

Ugh!  Maybe it's the wrong time of year?  Many buyers are busy
with other stuff and spending money.  I have always though that
March or April was a better time to sell a truck - but that is
based on almost to evidence.

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Re: [MBZ] Truck for sale

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Craig wrote:

> https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/302579536655?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123

Nice truck!

40,000 lb tandems is a bonus and allows for over-weight hauling.
13 speed transmission is an odd mate for the tandems, though...

No mention of the steer axle weight capacity.  Typical is not more
than 20,000.

pre-EPA is good too!

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Better than a Tesla Truck

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> forthcoming all-electric semitrucks,

I'm picking an nits - but the "semi" refers to the trailer.
Approx. 50% of the trailer weight is on the tractor, so it is a
"semi-trailer".  The tractor is NOT a "semi-truck".

> Meanwhile, there's a small shop in Los Angeles making electric
> trucks that might beat Tesla's rigs to the market.
> 
> Dakota Semler, 25, leads a startup called Thor Trucks that is
> getting ready to roll out its all-electric ET1. It's slated to
> start shipping custom models in 2019, with a starting price tag
> of $150,000 and a 300-mile range.

The article states Thor will "go after short-haul trucks,
delivery vans, and work vehicles".  300 mile range _might_ work
for that market.

The article also states, "cost more upfront than diesel
guzzlers".  Ugh.  Your bias is showing

and "Electric vehicles, of course, also pollute less"  *sigh*  Do
we have to go through this again?

Then, " ...to carry as much as 80,000 pounds of cargo"  No.
80,000 GVW.  Truck, trailer, _and_ cargo.  Not cargo.

I guess I shouldn't expect a reporter to be able to handle facts
and information correctly

A much more satisfying article at:
https://www.trucks.com/2017/12/13/startup-thor-trucks-electric-truck-market/

It mentions, "The chassis comes from a Navistar. It uses Dana
axles and an off-the-shelf motor from TM4."

I like that.  Use what is already being built - and don't
re-invent the wheel (or chassis) if you don't need to.

It also states, "To be a player in this space, a company needs to
be well capitalized,” Boesel said. “It’s impressive that Thor has
been able to get to this point without government funding.”  


I went to Thor's website.  http://www.thortrucks.com/  
It is dreadful.  I see _nothing_. Probably depends on Javascript
to load anything but a blank page. _BAD_ plan.  My turning off
CSS, I can actually see some content.

From their FAQ

 * How fast can it charge?
The battery can be charged from depletion to full in 90 minutes.

 * What is the size of the battery pack?
Packs are modular, allowing for up to 1MWh upon customer request.

 Hmmm.  Will the 1MWh pack change in 90 minutes too?

 * How much does the battery pack weigh?
Batteries add significant weight to a vehicle. The ET-One battery
pack is no exception. However, we understand payload capacity is
crucial to a fleet’s operation. We’ve designed our battery pack
with this in mind.

 Hah!  Spoken like a politician!!  It's not an answer!  

Thor Trucks, Inc.
Los Angeles, CA

 Not a surprise.

It seems to be a better thought-out plan than Nicola or Tesla.
And the folks doing it seem to be familiar with trucking.

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Re: [MBZ] Wagon

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Buggered wrote:

> ANDREW!!! Needs that!!!

He won't want it.  It's one of the better  pre-1985 models and he
prefers the cluttered '85s.

I'd like it.  I don't think I can afford $4k right now.  It is
close enough, though...

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Re: [MBZ] OT- Fun With Guns Today

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > OK Don wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm thinking of building a trap consisting of several (5 to
> > > 7) sheets of 3/4" plywood, separated by 2X4's on the long
> > > edge, with the space between the sheets filled with sand.

> > Curt wrote:
> > 
> > Back the "trap" with about 100 cubic yards of sand and you'll
> > have something. FMJ wants to go and keep going...

> Mitch wrote:
> 
> I'm with Curt. 
> I've got .177 air rifles that will punch a nice clean hole
> through 3/4" ply with 7 grain soft lead wadcutter pellets at
> 1000fps or so. 160gr FMJ will sail through dozens of sheets of
> ply at 2700 fps. 

I think you both missed his plan to put 3.5 inches of sand between
each sheet of plywood.

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[MBZ] Threading and header and Gmail and such.

[fmiser via Mercedes]

As of some time between 03:30 and 04:00 UTC on Wednesday, each
message has a "X-Assp-Intended-For" header listing (probably)
every list members email address.

I sent a message about 2 hours later and for the first time in
multiple _years_ I saw my own message.  GMail has been "helpful"
and filtered that out.

Possibly it has effected the threading too.


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Re: [MBZ] Hubcap request - champagne

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Michael  wrote:
> > 
> > Does anyone have a set of hubcaps for 14” aluminum wheels in
> > champagne?

> Russ wrote:
>
> Just checked and I do have a complete set they came with my
> Champagne 240D. Original owner had put Bunts on the car. Gave me
> the steel rims and caps

Michael actually asked for hubcaps for _aluminum_ wheels.  The
only aluminum wheels I'm familiar with are commonly called
"bunts".  I'm also not aware of any hubcaps for those.

Is there a different aluminum wheel?

Or did Michael really mean "steel"?

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Re: [MBZ] This is what the guy says about this

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

>  still haven’t been able to identify what happened. All of the
> hoses are intact, the radiator still has coolant, no strangeness
> in the engine bay. I was driving it around 11 pmand wasn’t
> worried about the gauges. Never had a problem with it before. I
> noticed it having a hard time accelerating, and when i checked
> the temp, i saw It was on red. I immediatley Pulled over and the
> motor started smoking (or possibly steaming?) real bad. No
> compression now.

Sounds kinda like a stuck thermostat.  The radiator was cold, but
the engine was hot.

But I have only seen that personally on the newer (post '80) style.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Java-fired biodiesel

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dwight wrote:

> Anybody brave enough to try it in an OM 616?

Sure! But only if it's bio-diesel and not VO. If it's been
trans-esterfied into biodiesel, all that matters really is
viscosity and cloud-point - 'cause it _is_ diesel.

I would NOT use just the oil straight because that is just
vegetable oil.  No thanks! 

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Re: [MBZ] OT Tesla Semi, an electric big rig truck with 500-mile range, rolls into reality

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Max wrote:

> https://www.usatoday.com/story/tech/2017/11/16/tesla-semi-electric-big-rig-truck-rolls-into-reality/873162001/
> 
> More significantly for trucking companies, Musk said that a
> standard diesel truck would be 20% more expensive to operate
> than a Tesla truck: $1.26 per mile compared to $1.51 per mile.

Does that price per mile include battery replacement?  Or are they
ignoring that elephant in the closet?

> ...Tesla Trucks can hit 65 mph vs. 45 mph up a 5% grade compared
> to a standard truck,

There is no "standard" truck!  Average can be approximately
determined, but without mentioning the engine, transmission, and
differential of the "standard" truck we really can't compare.

> Then the biggest applause and hoots accompanied this stat: a
> 500-mile range, at maximum weight at highway speeds.

Ugh!  That isn't even a full "shift".  I drove one truck that only
had 200 gallons.  It was a day-cab used for local work only and
the range was still annoying.  On a truck used over-the-road, I
found less than 1000 mile range to be bothersome.  The article
then says "charging to 80% would take only 30 minutes".  With
that, it _might_ work.  HoS (Hours of Service) rules say a 30 min
break is required within the 11 hour driving shift.  But that
break would have to be taken at a charging station.  And a full
charge would take longer and also require a charging station,
presumably while the drive is off-duty.  It's hard enough to find
a parking spot for a truck that doesn't need to be recharged for
the next driving shift.

The article also says, "drive the cost-per-mile below that of
today’s gas-powered machines".  There are effectively zero
gasoline powered class 8 trucks.  Maybe a few with spark engines
running on propane... Makes me wonder about the accuracy of the
rest of it, though elsewhere it refers to diesel.

And the name bugs me. "semi" is in reference to tho "semi-trailer"
that most truck and trailer rigs in the US use.  With the wheels
at the far aft end, approx 50% of the trailer weight is on the
truck, thus making it not really a full trailer, just a partial,
incomplete, or semi-trailer.

I think the Nikola One is a better approach.  Using hydrogen it
can be "recharged" about as quickly as a diesel tank can be filled.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: The long awaited blackpowder pistol

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curt wrote:

> I'm using 50 grains of powder in that but may go up
> to 60, my flintlock .45 likes that load a little better. 

I think the traditional way to figure the load is to lay the rifle
with the muzzle on a white sheet.  Increase the load until there
is lots of soot on the sheet.  That indicates wasted powder.  I
don't know how that effects the accuracy.

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Re: [MBZ] Hoodstacked 1991 Mercedes 300D

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Hoodstacked 1991 Mercedes 300D
> > 
> > https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/6338281656.html

> Fred wrote:

> Why!?

Hmmm.  Maybe to keep the windshield wiper well lubricated?  Or at
least the windshield.  Just a touch of oil blow-by and the
windshield and roof get oiled - not the taillights.

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Re: [MBZ] Cold air intake

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Karl wrote:

> I suspect that the na606 filter from the 1995 e300d is a bit
> under size for my fuel level on the turbo 606 motor however, 

The turbo-charged engine _will_ pump more air through.  

However, normally aspirated _engine_ is "sucking" the air through
the filter so filter size and restriction can be quite important.

Conversely, on the turbo-charged engine, it is the _turbo_ that is
"sucking" the air through the filter.  The only time the filter
size really matters is at high RPM, and that is when the turbo is
"throwing away" extra air via the waste-gate.

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Re: [MBZ] OM603 EDS/ELR computer repair - replace the capacitors or your pistons will MELT!

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> It sounds like I need to get a solder station. Got any
> suggestions?

That soldering iron I think you got a few months ago will do a
mighty fine job.  You can spend a lot more money, but I have a
hard time justifying adding more than a Solderpult to suck the old
solder off in needed.

If you get to situations that temperature control is important,
then money probably has to be spent to get a temp control
station.  But for capacitor replacement, I would just use the MCM
soldering iron.

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Re: [MBZ] What to wear - was: One or Two for Mr. Snook, Esq

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Dan wrote:
> > >
> > > I agree. As dear old Dad always told me, "Dress like the CEO
> > > and people will treat you like one."

> > Randy wrote:
> > 
> > My elder son ... has always
> > been a "preppie" sort and dresses pretty conservatively. A good
> > thing when one represents the office when sent out to a jobsite
> > to deal with clients etc. The firm is charging clients good
> > money for him and he needs to look like he is worth it.

> Curt wrote:

> The only place I disagree with you here is computer nerds. If a
> tech shows up and he's totally put together he's probably not
> very good.

>From what I've seen, it's not just computer nerds, but they are
white-collar and all the others I'm thinking of are blue-collar.

By the way, the best method I have found to identify the color of
collar is when is a shower taken.  If the shower is to be clean
_for_ work - white collar.  If the shower is to be clean
_because_of work - blue collar.

Anyway, if you wear a dress shirt and shiny shoes among the
"trades", you will likely be treated as an "foreign devil", not
trusted, and conspired against.

That doesn't mean it has to be ratty clothes - but as has been the
case for hundreds (or thousands) of years, clothing type is used
to identify the unknown.  The "insider" people are always more
welcome than "outsiders".

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Re: [MBZ] Gauges - was: '63 Valiant cabriolet - last of the PB transmission cars

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Randy wrote:

> I prefer the old round gauges.  But, I had an 08 Honda Civic for
> a year and it had the digital speedo up high above the rest of
> the gauges. 

> ...  The numbers were large 

> My truck on the other hand has round gauges and the numbers are
> fairly small

A big part of why I prefer analog gauges is that I don't have to
read the numbers.  A glance at where I know the needle _should_ be
is so very much quicker than looking at digits and having to
comprehend them.

If the needle is out of place, then the precision of a digital
gauge can be helpful.

I can see that a speedometer kinda blurs the distinction between
"gauge scanning" and "gauge studying".

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Re: [MBZ] OM603 EDS/ELR computer repair - replace the capacitors or your pistons will MELT!

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Meade wrote:

> Wow, Digikey's selection of capacitors is overwhelming.

Yeah, kinda.

> What should my first choice be on this list?

Aluminum Electrolytic is the style that is most likely to fail.
So that is probably what you are replacing.  

Tantalum are rather pricey, but less likely to fail.  I think the
aluminum polymer are also more durable.  

Mica and ceramic are probably not available in the sizes big
enough to replace your bad ones.

> Aluminum - Polymer Capacitors (9157 items)
> Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors (116127 items)
> Capacitor Networks, Arrays (2299 items)
> Ceramic Capacitors (539073 items)
> Electric Double Layer Capacitors (EDLC), Supercapacitors (1161
> items) Film Capacitors (60778 items)
> Mica and PTFE Capacitors (9014 items)
> Niobium Oxide Capacitors (414 items)
> Silicon Capacitors (210 items)
> Tantalum - Polymer Capacitors (10236 items)
> Tantalum Capacitors (53604 items)
> Thin Film Capacitors (2368 items)
> Trimmers, Variable Capacitors (1709 items)

Some of the rest of these I have no experience with!  However, if
the ratings match up (capacitance, voltage, AC vs DC, and size),
any type should work.

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Re: [MBZ] One For Kaleb

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Rick wrote:
> > >
> > > https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/1984-mercedes-benz-300/6367497195.html

> > fmiser wrote:
> > 
> > OM617 turbo AND a manual transmission!?!  Ooh  

> Craig wrote:
> 
> No, not a turbo from the VIN.

Ahh.  Right.

But it would sure be easy to put a turbo motor in there since it
is already a OM617.  Motor mounts, flywheel, driveshaft are all
correct.

If it were a _S_123   I don't think I should get another
W123.  Especially since I just spent a chunk getting a sturdy
transmission for one of my diesel Suburbans.

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Re: [MBZ] Window rubbers

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Andrew wrote:

> Speaking of rubbers, I just received the outside window rubber
> 
> What's the best tool to cut this?  There is a metal core. 

Sharp tin snips.  Think "very sturdy scissors."

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Re: [MBZ] One For Kaleb

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Rick wrote:

> https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/1984-mercedes-benz-300/6367497195.html

OM617 turbo AND a manual transmission!?!  Ooh  

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Re: [MBZ] And the blaming begins

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Kaleb sez:
> > 
> > ‎Maybe I am understanding it wrong.

> Rick wrote:
> 
> Yep. It's your fault. 
> Just go buy a new Toyota for her and be‎ done. 

Naw.  Toyota parts are too pricey.  Get an old chevy/buick like
the ones Snook talks about.  Should be cheap to buy and cheap to
fix.

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Re: [MBZ] I give up, just shoot me now please

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> Not sure if I can bring this one back
> to life. Unbelievable. I have had this car for 8 years or so. I
> highly suspect texting while driving. 

The car did it's job - keep the people safe.

Now there is no reason not to make that 240D your primary driver!
*grin*

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Re: [MBZ] Wasted oil change

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > Ah - (almost) everything _tries_ to harvest personal
> > information. *grin*
> > 
> > Some of us use means to prevent it.  And there are apps that
> > don't - at least for Android.  Check out https://f-droid.org/
> > for non-google apps.

> Mitch wrote:
>  
> What's the point of using apps that don't harvest your
> information, if you're using Google Andriod as your OS? Isn't
> Google the leading harvester?

And the other choice is ... Apple.  NO THANK YOU.  At least with
Android I have a file system, some choices on how I use it,  and
the OS developer isn't actively trying to prevent anyone from
trying to do something outside of their jail cell.

So I use Android and even without rooting the phone it's possible
to limit - but not eliminate - how much is collected.

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Re: [MBZ] Wasted oil change

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Dan sez:
> > 
> >‎ but they also harvested your personal >information, so that
> > was a big negative.

> Rick wrote:

> EVERYTHING harvests your personal information.

Ah - (almost) everything _tries_ to harvest personal information.
*grin*

Some of us use means to prevent it.  And there are apps that don't
- at least for Android.  Check out https://f-droid.org/ for
non-google apps.

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Re: [MBZ] Wasted oil change

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> I love the phone app, since it lets me enter my fuel stuff right
> when I do it.  I have the iPad version, too, for easier data
> entry at home for repairs and such.

Must not be storing it locally if you can enter data from two
devices.

Is there also a desktop client?

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Re: [MBZ] Valve adjustment

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust
> specs supposed to be? 

0.1 mm intake,  0.35 mm exhaust

or 0.004 inch intake, 0.014 inch exhaust.



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Re: [MBZ] Valve adjustment

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust
> specs supposed to be? Also I am trying to remember if it’s best
> to do it on a warm or cold engine. I seem to recall I have
> always done it cold.

Cold.  Like "sit all night" cold.


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Re: [MBZ] How do you know when you monovalve is bad?

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> Probably should do a valve adjustment while I’m at it.  No
> telling when that has been done. It’s been years since I have
> done this job.

I think you are getting in over you head.  Better sell that thing
quick before you go crazy!

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Lost at Sea with too much Crack

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Russ wrote:

> I guess you do that when you don't know how to navigate.

"Associated Press said the women want to repair the boat and sail
it back to Hawaii."

Oh my!

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Lost at Sea with too much Crack

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:

> If you’re in or around shipping lanes, you better have a watch.

Or radar that will beep if something is out there.

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Re: [MBZ] Weird shimmy

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Buggered wrote:

> At about 40 it started to shimmy really badly the other evening
> just a half mile or so up the road. Felt like RF wheel. I came
> home and got in a the SD and carried on. Anyway the steering
> seems tight enough, tires ok,

Are you _sure_ the tires are okay?  That sure sounds to me like
tire trouble.

> but RF brake is a bit tight though I can still spin the wheel,
> just not as easily as LF.
> 
> I’m wondering if I should just replace it (I pulled one off the
> knackered SEL,

Most likely it's the hose, not the piston.  Based on my experience,
anyway.  Especially since it seem to be applying, but not
releasing.  That is the classic symptom of a swollen hose.


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Re: [MBZ] 123 fuel mileage - was: Two Questions

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Dan wrote:


> I have a question for all of the former and present 300D owners
> here.  What’s the best fuel mileage you ever got from the car?

> ...the very best I can ever  recall getting in either a turbo or
> non-turbo was in the mid to upper 20s, maybe 27-28 at the very,
> very best.

I have a 240 manual transmission that has been getting 28 MPG for
15 years or so.  That's a bit better than the other 240s with
manual transmissions.

The 300 turbo with automatic transmissions have gotten from 21 MPG
to about 27 MPG.  Typical has been 24-25.  The one that got 27 has
a possessed engine (weird problems, again and again), so maybe
that had something to do with it.

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Re: [MBZ] Two Questions

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Donald wrote:
> >
> > With my new job, I have a 130 mile commute...

> Max wrote:
>
> finance a hybrid beater

A hybrid is a poor choice for a long highway commute.  More
complexity, heavy battery, and very little benefit.

> > So, one question is whether it even makes sense to get another
> > car.

More cars is always better.  Just ask Kaleb!

> > Is the fuel savings going to be enough to justify a
> > purchase?

Almost certainly not.  But the lack of wear on your "good" car
_may_ make it worth it.

> > Also, I found a 85 123 diesel here in McPherson.
> > https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/1985-mercedes-benz- 
> > 300d-w123/6332448767.html

'85.  I don't like 'em.  Andrew does.

> > It looks pretty decent.  I think these only get about 25-26
> > mpg and with the higher cost of diesel, it wouldn't pay off to
> > buy it just for the mileage.

If you got a car that managed to get >50 MPG on the highway you
could save 2.5 gallons per day, or less than $10 per day.  Drive
it lots for a year and the fuel savings might amount to $3,000.
Add the cost of tax, license, insurance, etc.  

Looks to me like it would have to be a 50+ MPG car for less than
$2,000 to "make it pay for itself" in a year.  If there are other
reasons to have the car, (it's diesel, it's pleasant to drive,
status, keep miles off the BMW, avoid driving the BMW in the
salted snow,  it's more dependable than the BMW, etc)  then buy it
and enjoy. 

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Re: [MBZ] OT OS

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > Andrew  wrote:
> >
> > How about someone who really knows his wild mushrooms?


> MG wrote:

> I go out and pick Chantrelles when they are growing. They are
> one of the best mushrooms for cooking and have a great taste.

Yup.  My "plot" didn't grow any this year.  Probably 'cause it was
too dry at their usual time.  Chanterelle mushrooms are also easy
to identify and easy to avoid the one possible poison look-alike.

I also watch for puffballs and chicken-of-the-woods.

> Randy wrote:
>
> My father used to pick wild mushrooms. He said that they were ok
> unless they did not smell good.

That is a _very_ risky way to identify mushrooms!!!

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Re: [MBZ] 240D

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Kaleb wrote:

> I take back the blow by part. After it’s warmed up it does have
> your normal amount of it.

Sounds pretty risky.  I think you should sell it quick.  'Cause I
like you, I'll increase my offer to $325.  You don't really want a
W123 anyway - not after all those OM60x engines.

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Re: [MBZ] Green crack wagon -- knackered window for the G-man

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Floyd wrote:

> In general the body is rusting away so not  a lot of good body
> work there.  What other bits should I keep?

Everything unique to the S123.  Hatch latch, lift struts (if they
are good), all the SLS stuff (high pressure hose under the hood,
pump, tank, leveling valve, accumulators, shocks), back seat
headrest and maybe the whole seat, fuel gauge sender, vacuum
storage tank, spare tire cover.  Then for the folks like Jamie,
the first aid kit and other stuff back there that is different
than the "W" cars.  

Is the SLS pump good? I might be interested...

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Re: [MBZ] Carbohydrate counting - was Now Fruits

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > Keep the starch (carbs) and oils/fats 4 hours
> > apart and the quantity doesn't matter.

> Max wrote:
>
> Can you put some color on this?  Source?

Trim Healthy Mama (THM) has popularized the technique.  But it is
a huge, convoluted, and not logically progressive book.  Many in
my family have researched and applied the concepts.

I just did a search for "THM Simplified" and found this good summary.
http://www.pinchofpatience.com/thm-in-3-points/


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Re: [MBZ] OT sign of the times - be careful out there!

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Scott wrote:

> Tower fly-by is a basic flight test technique to calibrate a new
> pitot-static system.

> My most memorable flyby was a 600 KIAS pass to a closed
> pattern.  The turn to downwind was wide, even at 7g, and we had
> to extend the downwind leg (a lot) to get slow enough to lower
> the gear.  The maintenance guys on the ramp thought it was very
> cool.  That memory is vivid, even after 40 years.

Wow!! At sea level, speed of sound is 660 knots, so 600 KIAS [knots
indicated air speed] is mighty close to mach 1!  That's gotta feel
_really_ fast that close to the ground.

I have nothing so exciting to tell.  But a couple A-10s flew over
last week...

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