Re: [MBZ] Parting out '82 300CD
I've gotten a lot of interest in parts from my coupe. Just a quick update: the car is going to be going to the scapyard towards the end of the week. If you requested parts and we've settled on a price you're all set. If you've requested a part but we haven't settled on terms, please contact me. And of course, if you need something and haven't contacted me yet, you still have a couple days to do so. Thanks again. J.B. J.B. Hebert wrote: I'm finally getting around to prepping my wrecked '82 300CD for the scrapyard. I am keeping the engine and transmission, and some misc. parts, but I have no need for the rest. The car has body damage to the driver's front and rear corners. I had just replaced the rear springs the same week the car was in the accident (new OEM). Bilstein HD's on all 4 corners. The car has a decent black Tex interior which is reasonably rare for this car. If you're looking for some parts, drop me a line off the list and I'll see what I can do for you. Some pics here: http://www.wrxtra.com/Misc/Automotive/Mercedes/Accident/ -- J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Parting out '82 300CD
I'm finally getting around to prepping my wrecked '82 300CD for the scrapyard. I am keeping the engine and transmission, and some misc. parts, but I have no need for the rest. The car has body damage to the driver's front and rear corners. I had just replaced the rear springs the same week the car was in the accident (new OEM). Bilstein HD's on all 4 corners. The car has a decent black Tex interior which is reasonably rare for this car. If you're looking for some parts, drop me a line off the list and I'll see what I can do for you. Some pics here: http://www.wrxtra.com/Misc/Automotive/Mercedes/Accident/ -- J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale) '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing
I have had good luck with peel and stick snow and ice products in other vehicles. When I do my audio install and/or interior upgrade, I plan on using some in the E300D. Did you happen to take some before and after dB readings in the Vanagon for comparison purposes? J.B. At 04:35 PM 12/26/2007, Zeitgeist wrote: In the past there's been some discussion of soundproofing solutions, and many have opted to use self sticking asphalt sheeting like Dynamat which is not locally available (at least around these parts). I recently found out about an alternative which is available in your local Lowe's roofing department. Peel Seal ( http://www.cofair.com/peel_seal.aspxhttp://www.cofair.com/peel_seal.aspx ) is about $12 for a 6x25' roll. I recently swapped all the door lock actuators and replaced them with Swiss-made MES units ( http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htmhttp://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm ) while installing aftermarket remote locks in my '89 VW Vanagon. I Peel Sealed all the doors, which has resulted in a nice resounding thud when shut--nice! The rear hatch is so much heavier now that I have to install new hatch struts, but I no longer have to push it down to ensure that the latch catches--it just drops and latches in one fell swoop. Just thought some of you might be interested... Casey '87 300TD 230k No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 8:04 PM -- next part -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 8:04 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Removing Corroded Bleed Valves
Use a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, applied liberally every 12 hours or so for a few days, and it should come out. If not, alternate between heat and penetrating oil. Ideally, the caliper should be off the car on the bench for safety. If you heat the area around with bleed screw with MAP gas or Oxyacetylene and hit it will penetrating oil, the oil gets sucked right in. Take your time and be careful and it should come out. Good luck! J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ At 11:11 AM 1/5/2007, you wrote: Howdy! The bleed valves on the rear calipers of my 91 300D 2.5T are corroded so badly they will not unscrew. Attempts to grab them with a vise-grips or similar results in the bleeders starting to collapse as they are turned. I haven't had any luck with easy-outs - last time I tried one it broke off inside the bleeder! No fun there! So, what works? What doesn't? Thx - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM
Re: [MBZ] 5 speed getrag
Got any pics? Might help for ID purposes. J.B. At 03:23 PM 1/4/2007, you wrote: OK, I got to looking at the MB 5 speed getrag I have. I dont see any 7xx type number on it, only thing it has is a couple of 117 part numbers on the case. This tranny has the bell housing for starter on the drivers side, like the older ones. Its removable so could a person install the later bell housing with starter on passenger side if they wanted to use it in a newer car, diesel or a 16 valve maybe? -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM
Re: [MBZ] Variable intake manifold
The theory is at lower RPMs, the air runs through the longer runners to develop more torque. As the RPM's climb, it switches over to the short runners for more HP. On my car, you can feel the changover around 3,900 or 4,000 RPM and it pulls strong right up to 5,200 RPM. The '89 to '94 SHO Tauruses had some of the first variable length runners on a production car (or the first to work really well). J.B. At 02:31 PM 12/13/2006, you wrote: Can anybody enlighten me as to what the theory is behind the variable resonance intake manifold on the 606.9xx naturally aspirated diesel? There is quite a complex control system doing something. -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.18/585 - Release Date: 12/13/2006 11:49 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.18/585 - Release Date: 12/13/2006 11:49 AM
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
It's posts like this that keeps me going back to Daniel Stern for my high-end automotive lighting needs. When it comes to automotive lighting, I'm not sure there are many with his depth of knowledge and willingness to share it. J.B. At 10:45 PM 12/6/2006, you wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? Message: 10 Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 12:29:30 -0600 From: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MB] Automotive Lighting Query I received the following from Daniel Stern after asking him about the recent lighting questions on the list here. For what it's worth, I'd rather see a few sparks fly here than on the road! Gerry -- Forwarded message -- From: Daniel Stern Lighting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Dec 6, 2006 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Re: Automotive Lighting Query] To: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, GV. Numerous times in the past, Stu has advocated wiring up H4 headlamps such that the high and low beam filaments can be burned at the same time. See for example http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/w124.htm . If I am not mistaken, this same advice is contained in his W124 bible, and he has repeated it widely in various discussion forums. ... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.14/578 - Release Date: 12/7/2006 1:27 AM
Re: [MBZ] '86 BMW 524TD on Portland, OR CL
Up/down front, up/down rear, front/back, tilt forward/back. Arguably, MB seats are 10 way power by adding up/down for the headrest. :) J.B. At 10:24 AM 12/4/2006, you wrote: Can someone explain the vectors for 8 way power seats? I understand up, down, forward, back, tilt forward, and tilt back. What are the other two? On 12/2/06, ernest breakfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: agreed; but it's a dealer selling it, and you know how much they're likely to (not) know when it comes to something like this. it was just included as an example of the fact that they still show up from time-to-time. cheers! e Werner Fehlauer wrote: The last item (the one still active) bears some caution. They advertise it as a 524TD, but in the description its called a 525i, which is a 2.5 L gas engine used in the NEXT series after this body style. The '85s came ONLY in 2.4L TurboDiesel and 2.8 L and 3.5 L gas engines in the USA. Also, note that the rear window, radio, and antenna don;t work, and they admit that the mileage may not be correct. All of the above says Warning! Werner - Original Message - From: ernest breakfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:10 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 BMW 524TD on Portland, OR CL you can see them often on ebay; $2500 is high for one with that much mileage. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemih=002sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AITviewitem=item=120041882029rd=1,1 this one was up several times: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemsspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AVRIviewitem=item=330046019804rd=1,1 this one's still active: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NO-RESERVE-DIESEL-CLEAN_W0QQitemZ150065579342QQihZ005QQcategoryZ6008QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/567 - Release Date: 12/4/2006 7:18 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/567 - Release Date: 12/4/2006 7:18 AM
Re: [MBZ] Ball Joint Replacement, 124
Should be able to replace both ball joints in under 2 hours. The ball joint itself is about $20 from Rusty. Maybe another 2 hours of labor for the alignment if they are thorough. If your mechanic charges $75/hr, then you're looking at $340 when all is said and done. $800 is ridiculous. They're either over-billing for parts, over-billing for labor, or both. J.B. At 06:59 PM 12/2/2006, you wrote: Anyone had both ball joints replaced (with alignment) by an indie or dealer? I'm wondering if $800 the dealer is asking is crazy. I've never replaced ball joints on any of my cars, so I don't have any idea what is a fair price for these. John Peterson 1991 300D 2.5 84k Kingston, RI Zeitgeist wrote: Send me $1.2k and ugly W123 is yours. On 12/2/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send me ugly W123. Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (220k) '84 300D (218k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.4/563 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:59 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.4/563 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:59 AM
Re: [MBZ] Wheel Balancing
I didn't have any problem balancing my Graspics. It all boils down to the equipment and user experience. The tire warehouse guys _should_ be using decent equipment and know how to use it well, since they do such a high volume, but that isn't always the case. They will frequently use the cheapest labor they can find, at a high turnover rate. I've gotten so fed up with tire shop experiences that I ultimately bought my own equipment to mount and balance my own tires. It paid for itself in less than a year with the volume I do (would have been quicker had I gotten the equipment before a tire place destroyed a $450 rim). Ultimately, if you are unhappy with the tires and the place you bought them from is the same place that mounted and balanced them, they should be willing to figure out what the problem is. Are you using the same rims that your Goodyears were on? If not, you may have a bad rim that is causing the problem. J.B. At 07:33 PM 11/12/2006, you wrote: What experience are you having with wheel balancing- I brought my 300D in for snow tires and they put 4 Dunlop Graspics on the car. The car, in nice weather, has Goodyear Triple Treads. When the Goodyears were on the car, there was absolutely NO vibration in the steering wheel. With the Graspics, it is notible at 45 MPH and annoying at 60 MPH. The Goodyears were balanced by the MB dealership and the Graspics by a tire warehouse. Anyone had experience with this- the Graspics are snow tires- should I expect vibration? Thanks friends. John Peterson 1991 300D 2.5 84k Kingston, RI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.3/530 - Release Date: 11/11/2006 6:53 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.3/530 - Release Date: 11/11/2006 6:53 PM
Re: [MBZ] Here's Yer TD....
Definately a Euro. Small bumpers, no tach, headlight aiming controls, manual A/C, Euro radio, and cloth inserters in the door panels (and presumably the seats). Very similar setup to my old Euro '84 300TD. Man I miss that car. J.B. At 12:49 AM 11/7/2006, you wrote: Must be a Euro, look at the manual A/C and the vin wouldn't work. Wonder if it is a turbo? On 11/6/06, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Mercedes-300-TD-Diesel-Wagon-Low-Miles_W0QQitemZ320043974589QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Bob Rentfro ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.31/522 - Release Date: 11/7/2006 9:40 AM J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.31/522 - Release Date: 11/7/2006 9:40 AM
Re: [MBZ] Belt Swoosh / Dunlop Graspics?
I ran Graspics on my '82 300CD. Excellent snow tire, but very soft sidewall. I did not like the way the car handled on dry pavement with those tires. Just be careful and remember that it'll handle different and you should be fine. My all time favorite reasonably priced, readily available snow tire is the Dunlop Wintersport M3 (the M2 was good, too). J.B. On another matter, I just ordered 4 Graspics from Tirerack. They were priced well below the Blizzaks etc. Anyone had them? Any reviews? I will review after I put them on. Thanks! John Peterson 1991 300D 2.5 87k miles Kingston, RI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006 5:30 PM J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006 5:30 PM
Re: [MBZ] 1979 MB 240D 25K Orig Miles
I am interested. Can you provide details offline? Thanks, J.B. At 08:01 AM 9/27/2006, you wrote: 25,000 miles, confirmed with records. I have seen the car and it is still for sale. It is in the Northeast. If you are interested let me know, Regards Tom - Original Message - From: dan elliott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 MB 240D 25K Orig Miles Is that 25 or 125 kmi ? Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 100K ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Cat = Gas Cat?
I have been told that the core (honeycomb) of diesel cats are different due to the extra particulate in the exhaust. It would plug up a gas cat. I think that the catalyst might be a different material as well, but I am not certain. J.B. At 02:59 PM 9/21/2006, you wrote: Does anyone know whether the catalytic converters used in the OM60X engines are constructed of similar materials/metals as those found in gasoline models? -- Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k) '84 300D (216k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.6/453 - Release Date: 9/20/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.6/453 - Release Date: 9/20/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sir Tools subframe bushing tool opinions?
At 04:54 PM 8/29/2006, you wrote: On Tue, Aug 29, 2006 at 10:27:30AM -0400, J.B. Hebert wrote: I am preparing to RR the suspension on my '95 E300D, and the only tool I think I am missing to do the job is a sub frame bushing tool. Does anyone have any experience with the Sir Tools version? It appears to be well made - fully hardened body with thrust bearings on the drive nuts. This is the type of tool that will only get used every once in a great while, but I'd rather spend the money up front that get frustrated with an inferior product once the project has begun. JB, I purchased the Klann to do the job on my 201, 201/124 have identical rear suspension with the exception of the differential mount on the 124 being rubber and the 201 having four bolts and no bushings. edit Thanks for the info. I'd love the Klann version of the tool, but according to the Samstag Sales website, it's $556.46. That's a tad steep, even for a tool lover like myself. I'll probably do the links. For the amount of money I'll be putting into it, it would be silly to skimp on the links. I'll try to take pictures. :) J.B. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/430 - Release Date: 8/28/2006
[MBZ] Sir Tools subframe bushing tool opinions?
I am preparing to RR the suspension on my '95 E300D, and the only tool I think I am missing to do the job is a sub frame bushing tool. Does anyone have any experience with the Sir Tools version? It appears to be well made - fully hardened body with thrust bearings on the drive nuts. This is the type of tool that will only get used every once in a great while, but I'd rather spend the money up front that get frustrated with an inferior product once the project has begun. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/430 - Release Date: 8/28/2006
Re: [MBZ] W124 and 16 wheels
Wider tires, and to a much lesser extent larger diameter rims will amplify any suspension issues your car may have. A 124 chassis in good health (bushings, shocks, struts, etc. in like-new condition) and in a good state of alignment will handle pretty much any wheel and tire package that will fit under the fenders. Mercedes put 16 rims on the 500E, so they obviously felt it could be done with the right suspension setup. However, if anything is not quite right, you will certainly notice it more with the larger tires. J.B. At 12:37 PM 8/27/2006, you wrote: I'm looking for some more input on the '90 300D. Some of you may recall me whining about the 16 Kuhmo tires I had on this car. They have since been replaced with a set of Michelin MXV 215/60's. Same issue as with the Kuhmos. Car is all over the road and tracks every little depression. The W124 comes standard with 15 tires so I went back to the original wheels this weekend which have Michilin Pilot Alpine 195/65's on them. Handling of the vehicle is vastly improved to the point where I would say the car has no suspension issues. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms with lower profile 16 tires on a W124? I'm thinking I should just sell the 16 wheels and go back to the old 15 pancakes for good, or is this an early indication that my suspension really needs some work. Thoughts or comments? Ralph W. '83 300CD '82 300TD '90 300D '01 E320 Wagon ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006
Re: [MBZ] old 124 wagon
I bet almost every 124 owner on the list would love the headlights :) I dig the burlwood interior with the manual heat A/C controls, as well as the snazzy cloth seats. J.B. At 12:58 AM 7/31/2006, you wrote: Neither did I. Chaps my ass; what a waste. On 7/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: no, I didnt notice any. Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k) '84 300D (214k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/403 - Release Date: 7/28/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/403 - Release Date: 7/28/2006
Re: [MBZ] Engine quitting
The engine shut off valve should be all the way open (counter-clockwise) under normal operation. It may or may not be your problem, but it's certainly worth giving it a try and running it a bit. J.B. At 12:20 AM 7/31/2006, you wrote: Folks, The daughters new (to her) 1995 E300D has quit on her a couple of times, it left her stranded the other night. She thought she had run out of fuel although the gage said she had a bit under 1/2 a tank. She did not attempt to start it in case it was out of fuel. She returned to the vehicle the next day with 5 gallons of diesel poured it in the tank and it started immediately so it was not out of fuel. The gage proved accurate as I drained about 10 gals out of it. I replaced the tank screen, disassembled and cleaned the level sensor, replaced both fuel filters, filled the high pressure one with diesel purge, added 3 gallons of clean diesel to the tank. She drove into Woodland a mile or so away, filled the tank it took 20 gallons and on the way home it quit. She called me I drove down the hill to her, opened the stop knob on the high pressure filter a bit more it started and she drove home and up the steep hill to my place without an issue -- she does not trust the car at this stage. So where should the 'stop screw' be positioned at? I changed the overload (overvoltage) relay drove it in Italian fashion in the hills behind us never missed a beat, the cruise started working reliably for me however she tried it today and she said it was useless. It does have the Benz and an after market security system. Any thoughts, Dennis T -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/403 - Release Date: 7/28/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/403 - Release Date: 7/28/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/403 - Release Date: 7/28/2006
Re: [MBZ] Priming the Oil System
I primed my motor because it had lost oil pressure and I didn't want to risk cranking the motor with dry bearings. It also allowed me to confirm that oil was getting to the cams / lifters / etc. while I had the valve cover off (since I didn't / couldn't run the motor to do so). If you had normal oil pressure prior to working on your motor, your bearings most likely still have a film of oil on them and should be fine. If you are interested, I primed it through the oil pressure sender hole using a modified pressure sprayer (which was new and had never had anything but oil in it). Regards, J.B. Hebert At 02:01 PM 7/20/2006, you wrote: I noticed that JB Hebert recently mentioned that he manually primed the lubrication system through the pressure sender fitting when he was ready to restart his 606 engine after working on the oil pump. His statement make me consider that maybe I should be doing something like this before I restart my 606 engine. What is the reason for priming? Are we worried the oil pump will not be able to develop suction? Are we concerned the bearings may run (kind of) dry for too long? Can anybody describe the procedure and equipment to do this? Would cranking the engine for a long time before it starts accomplish the same thing? Thanks for your help, Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.2/393 - Release Date: 7/19/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.3/394 - Release Date: 7/20/2006
Re: [MBZ] I am in hell
I remember the day I picked up my old 300CD. Laying on burning hot gravel trying to disconnect the driveshaft so I could dolly the car home... the thermometer in the truck indicated about 105. Not fun. J.B. At 04:04 PM 7/19/2006, you wrote: So I decided to get back to messing with the enterprise again (380SE with euro 5.0 motor). Am in the middle of pulling the gas tank and going to pull one out of another car to put in it. Imagine it being 101 outside, unhooking the fuel lines from under the car, and having your arms and back covered with gasoline. That burns. Had to come in from a break but am fixing to go back out. I also noticed the tach was not workign on that car, what runs the tach on the gassers? The fuse seems ok. Tach was working fine before. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/391 - Release Date: 7/18/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/391 - Release Date: 7/18/2006
[MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure - Problem found
After many weeks and a few red herrings, we finally tracked down the oil pressure issue plaguing my '95 E300D. Checking through MB's tech bulletins, I thought I had nailed it. On the 606 motors (and probably others) the camshafts are hollow and oil runs down them. There is a freeze plug at either end of the camshaft. According to MB, these freeze plugs can fail and become dislodged. When this happens, all the oil gets pumped up into the valve cover and the low oil light comes on, followed by loss of oil pressure. Since this sounded like my symptoms, we tore down the top of the motor and pulled the valve cover (a time-intensive job on a 606). Sadly, when the camshafts where checked, it was confirmed that all freeze plugs were in place and not leaking. The next step was to check the pan. Instead of dropping the pan, we removed the oil cooler from the side of the pan (which required draining the oil and the coolant, since it is an oil to water heat exchanger). Once removed, the issue quickly became obvious. The screw plug that retains the oil pressure relief valve to the oil pump had backed out to the point where only one or two threads kept it from dropping into the pan. This effectively removed any preload on the oil pressure relief valve spring and put it into bypass mode. Since neither the oil pump nor the oil pressure relief valve had ever been replaced or removed on this vehicle, I am at a loss as to how it would have backed out. It was re-torqued to 50 Nm, the vehicle was reassembled, and we manually primed the lubrication system through the pressure sender fitting to make sure all bearings had oil. The engine was restarted and oil pressure immediately returned. Now, I realize that my particular vehicle tends to exhibit problems that by themselves are unusual and rare and in combination almost inconceivably unlikely, but if this happened to me it could happen to someone else. If you happen to have the oil pan off your 606 motor (other 60x might be similar), you might want to re-torque the oil pressure relief valve screw plug while you're in there. If you happen to loose oil pressure, this might be something you want to check. 18-5031HA in the service manual covers the installation and removal of the oil pressure relief valve. Regards, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/389 - Release Date: 7/14/2006
Re: [MBZ] Need advice on buying AC pump gauge set
My $9 HF pump outperforms the 1.5CFM Robinair unit at the local shop for both CFM and inches of Mercury, so I've never had any problems with it. J.B. At 11:50 PM 7/5/2006, you wrote: On Wed, 05 Jul 2006 15:33:23 -0500 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wow! good tip. I use one of the HF air/vacuum boxes with an old soda fire extinguisher to pull the oil out of the crankcase, but it never occurred to me to use it to pull a vacuum for refr. At 03:03 PM 7/5/2006, you wrote: I'm by no means an expert, but here's my $0.02. I've had good luck with Yellow Jacket gauges. If you are going to be doing both R12 and R134a, make sure you get 2 separate gauge setups. The combo unit is just asking for cross-contamination. I have also had excellent success with the Harbor Freight venturi-style vacuum pumps that run anywhere from $10 to $16, provided you have a powerful enough air compressor to run it. I use a 220v 60 gallon unit which is fine. Right now the one with the R134a connector is on sale for $9.99. Heck of a lot cheaper than the self-powered stuff, and will pull more than enough vacuum for A/C work. Actually, no, they won't pull enough vacuum for A/C work. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.9/382 - Release Date: 7/4/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.9/382 - Release Date: 7/4/2006
Re: [MBZ] Need advice on buying AC pump gauge set
I'm by no means an expert, but here's my $0.02. I've had good luck with Yellow Jacket gauges. If you are going to be doing both R12 and R134a, make sure you get 2 separate gauge setups. The combo unit is just asking for cross-contamination. I have also had excellent success with the Harbor Freight venturi-style vacuum pumps that run anywhere from $10 to $16, provided you have a powerful enough air compressor to run it. I use a 220v 60 gallon unit which is fine. Right now the one with the R134a connector is on sale for $9.99. Heck of a lot cheaper than the self-powered stuff, and will pull more than enough vacuum for A/C work. Good luck. J.B. Hebert At 02:59 PM 7/5/2006, you wrote: I plan to spend the money and need help with the route to take. This is for DIY only but counting family we're talking about seven vehicles, with three needing help right now. I think my silver SDL ate the pump, the others won't be as bad. There is a 6.0 cfm, 2-stage Robinair, $240 at thetoolwarehouse.net. They also have gauge sets from $65 to $130. Am I fishing to shallow? Harry Watkins Newton, MS 86 SDL Silver 85 300D Euro 86 SDL Gold 81 240D manual trans ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.9/382 - Release Date: 7/4/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.9/382 - Release Date: 7/4/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
According to 18-5031HA, the oil pressure relief valve is part of the oil pump, so if I end up dropping the pan I will check it. I do not want to have to drop the pan, though... so I'm going to first hook up a mechanical gauge to be absolutely sure it isn't a gauge issue. Then I will likely remove the oil to water head exchanger on the passenger side of the sump, which should give me a decent view of the oil pump and surrounding area. Thanks, J.B. Hebert At 08:33 AM 6/29/2006, you wrote: It was mentioned earlier, but be sure to check the oil pressure regulator, sometimes also called overpressure bypass. The springs can break or the valve become jamed in its bore. Bob DuPuy Parrish, FL On 6/29/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry to hear it wasn;t one of the easy things (relatively) to fix that was suggested - hopefully the pump intake is only blocked and the main bearings are not damaged. Good luck - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 9:54 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure I tested the gauge and sender tonight. The gauge goes right to 3 when disconnected, and back to 0 when grounded, so it is fine. I removed the sender and made a fixture that allowed me to pressure test it. At 0 bar, it read about 7.3 ohms. At 15 PSI (around 1 bar) I got around 62 ohms. At 30 PSI, 111 ohms. At 45 PSI, I got 172 ohms. So the sender is a little low based on the manual (or maybe my gauge is off), but the sender is certainly responsive. So it looks like I'll be pulling the pan next... and I was depressed to see that it's a once piece pan, unlike my old OM617 with the 2 piece unit. That would have made it much easier. So I'll have to track down a gasket at the very least. I am now hoping that it's just a blocked pickup, but we'll see. Thanks, J.B. At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
I tested the gauge and sender tonight. The gauge goes right to 3 when disconnected, and back to 0 when grounded, so it is fine. I removed the sender and made a fixture that allowed me to pressure test it. At 0 bar, it read about 7.3 ohms. At 15 PSI (around 1 bar) I got around 62 ohms. At 30 PSI, 111 ohms. At 45 PSI, I got 172 ohms. So the sender is a little low based on the manual (or maybe my gauge is off), but the sender is certainly responsive. So it looks like I'll be pulling the pan next... and I was depressed to see that it's a once piece pan, unlike my old OM617 with the 2 piece unit. That would have made it much easier. So I'll have to track down a gasket at the very least. I am now hoping that it's just a blocked pickup, but we'll see. Thanks, J.B. At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
You're full of good news. :) I'm thinking that the MB galley plugs are threaded, so they are unlikely to come out? I guess anything is possible. J.B. At 07:14 PM 6/28/2006, you wrote: J.B. Hebert wrote: I have not detected any loss of oil anywhere, including into the coolant or bellhousing, so I have to think that it is not a galley plug. Dad's 360 Ford returned it to the sump when he lost a galley plug. No oil pressure, plenty of perfectly good oil in the sump, clattering lifters was the main symptom. Let's hope yours is just a bad reading instead of low pressure. Oh, I thought of another way to kill oil pressure. Loosen the bolts on a cam bearing tower so the oil comes out between the tower and the head. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
Got home late tonight, so I didn't have time to put it up on ramps and check the sender and gauge. However, I did pull the new filter out and it was, unfortunately, fine. The stem O-rings were intact and pliable, and the top and bottom filter gaskets were in place. The oil canister was clean and free of any obvious blockage or other issues. I will check the gauge tomorrow. Does anyone know what size the oil sender thread is in case I have to try another gauge? I'd like to have everything I need to hook it up. Thanks, J.B. At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
The '95 E300D (OM606). At 09:51 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: What car are we talking about here? J.B. Hebert wrote: On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
This is the E300. It is non-turbo, but does still have the piston cooling jets. However, I do not know as they can fall off. I think they are just a specific sized hole drilled in existing material, but I may be wrong. I have not detected any loss of oil anywhere, including into the coolant or bellhousing, so I have to think that it is not a galley plug. Thanks, J.B. At 10:03 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: I forgot, is this the E300? Do those things have piston cooling jets? Seems like 1995 was not a turbo year. If a cooling jet fell off, I wonder how much oil pressure would escape from the hole? Another possibility (on any engine) is loss of an oil galley plug. Happened to my Dad's 1973 Ford P/U, he left it idling for half an hour and when he returned it was making an awful clatter. He paid $$ hundreds in labor to replace a $3 part. Ford was not interested in a policy adjustment for an engine defect on a six year old truck. Dad hasn't bought a Ford since, and never will. I was amazed the engine still seemed to run normally after that. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
The pan was off less than 20k miles ago, so unless something odd happened I can't imagine that much buildup would have occurred that quickly. Not that I'm dismissing the clocked screen, but I would be very surprised if that was the case. If the gauge checks out, the pan will be the next thing to check. J.B. At 09:14 AM 6/28/2006, you wrote: Clogged pickup screens are pretty common on old tractors that had been run for years with non-detergent oil, any dirt or crud that got into the engine settled into the oil pan. Common practice when switching to detergent oil is to drop the pan and scrape the crud out. Guess what I need to do on my tractor this fall? -Curt '52 Farmall Super M Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:52:19 -0400 From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original Have you owned maintained the car since new? I had a 280S that the PO failed to have regular oil changes - the intake screen on the oil pump pickup was partially clogged with debris and it would act as you describe as it starved for oil. Had another used MB with similar symptoms that had a main bearing fail. Those are extreme possibilities - especially if the maintanence history is questionable - checking the gauge 1st is the prudent thing to do. Good luck - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ - Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date: 6/27/2006
[MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
Grrr... totally forgot to mention the car is a '95 E300D with 214,000 miles running on M1 5W40. At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
I'm not sure the effect would be so immediate and drastic, unless one or both of the o-rings came off while I was putting it back together. Both o-rings were pliable and had no signs of cracking. I'll check this evening when I check the filter. J.B. At 02:08 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: Isn't that what happens when the rubber o rings on the oil filter stalk thingus fail? I changed the oil in my 190D last weekend and when I went to pull the o rings off they split into many little pieces and fell on the ground... Sure glad I thought to replace them. -Curt Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:18:04 -0400 From: J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-455D26F6 On my way into work today my low oil light came on. Oil pressure was fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went out. A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to fall. When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted to the side of the road. The low oil light had not come back on again. I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of a problem. I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and max on the dipstick. I restarted the car and the oil pressure went to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased. After 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the motor off again. The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil pump or any other issues. It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and pegs the needle quickly. There are no odd sounds, smells, or sights. Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car recently. I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong. Even if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. It appears that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and the pump is sucking air. I'm having the vehicle towed home for further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions. Thanks, J.B. Hebert - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] A hole in there...
I believe you need 102 014 00 33, Cover, Flywheel. I see it lists for $1.90. Check with your parts place, first, though. Another 606 vacuum pump failure... I feel your pain. Do you know how many miles this one had on it before it failed? Good luck. J.B. At 10:57 PM 6/17/2006, you wrote: Finally got the engine pulled out of my '95 E300D. Found quite a collection of vacuum pump bearings and debis in the oil pan. But with the eigine hanging on a hook, something I'd never notices before became apparent. There is a big trapazoidal shaped hole in the front vertical surface of the belll housing. It is facing forward, perhaps 2 high and 4 wide, right below the oil pan. Through the hole you can see the fly wheel, ring gear and bolts that presumably go to the torque converter. Is this hole supposed to be open? Or should it have a rubber plug or some thing in it? There are no bolt holes or other obvious fastening point for a cover. Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
Re: [MBZ] A hole in there...
You're preaching to the choir: the vacuum pump design on the 60x motors leaves a lot to be desired, especially in failure mode. My car required a new timer cam because it got chewed up when my pump failed. Interestingly enough, the new timer was made of a different material (same part number, and an MB part) that appears to have different wear characteristics, so I'm not sure if MB decided to change the material due to failure issues. I had considered going the electric route, but decided to add the vacuum pump to my list of regularly replaced parts and leave it OEM. J.B. At 02:29 PM 6/18/2006, you wrote: JB: This '95 E300D has 143k miles on the odo. I've owned it since 102K mi. and doubt that a PO replaced the vacuum pump. The disturbing aspect of this is the failed vac pump was the pierpoint type held together by cap screws. Those were not known to fail so early. The cam that drives the pump should probably soon be replace too. Though it is not spawled or grooved, the slopes are 'lumpy. I can't tell if the failed pump caused lumps on the cam, or if this cam has defective metallurgy and maybe caused the pump to fail. Removing and cleaing up this engine has taken me serveral months already, since I have only a few hours per week to work on it. So I don't think I'll replace that cam right now. That would involve some expensive new parts and an adventure into removing stuff that would affect timing. I never had these problems with my 123's. Their pumps would just quit working. Then you had to rebuild or replace them. Has anyone ever considered eliminating this expensive failure prone 124 pump and replacing it with an electric vacuum pump? Though an electric pump may or may not fail more frequently, it would do no collateral damage when it does fail and would probably be a lot cheaper and easier to replace. Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D '85 300D '80 300TD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..
For equipment that you have owned for years, I would agree. But for an unknown such as this 240, I would take all the precautions I could. We're only talking about another hour of so or work to be extra safe and maybe extend the life of the motor a little. Regards, J.B. Hebert At 06:59 PM 5/24/2006, you wrote: I would not worry about pulling valve covers and such. Get a good battery and crank the motor without glowing for 30 seconds or so. Then fire it up and change fluids at first opportunity. Having worked on farms there have been lots of instances of Diesel motors sitting for just about a year, things like harvestors which sit for 10 months in the shed without starting. Never worried about any fancy stuff, all we did is get batteries and crank em up. Change the fluids, do a bit of maintenance and rip into the crop. These machines also did not have pre glow set ups so started generally within 10 seconds of cranking. We also never worried about putting fresh fuel into them but changed the filters prior to harvesting. Once you get into the sitting for two years plus I would think about waking up a motor but 12 months is not that long a time. Hendrik who is a bit cranky and hard to start in the morning, although the missus knows how to operate my glow plug in order to fire me up straight away - Original Message - From: J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 5:46 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year.. I bought my '82 300CD under similar circumstances, and here is what I did: 1) Check the status of the fuel and fuel filters. If the prefilter is black, or the fuel itself is suspect, change the filters and drain the tank. No sense in fighting bad fuel. 2) Charge the battery fully 3) Pull the valve cover and liberally coat the cam with oil (I used Marvel Mystery oil, but anything is better than nothing). I changed the oil as soon as the engine had been started and run for a short interval. 4) Crank the motor over by hand several rotations and reapply oil to the cam, etc. Reinstall valve cover. 5) Hold the STOP button on the IP closed and crank the motor with the starter several rotations. You should see oil pressure register on the gauge after a short time, indicating that oil is circulating through the motor. 6) Attempt to start the motor. Interestingly enough, my motor started after a few seconds without glowplugs during step 5, which is why I recommend holding the STOP button. 7) Once the motor has been run long enough to come up to temperature, shut down and change all the fluids. Good luck. J.B. At 02:44 PM 5/24/2006, you wrote: Dieslers, it would seem that my 16 y/o son with his newly minted driver's license have an adventure lined up for this weekend. We've been made aware of a 1979 240D with an owner that would like to move it. The car has been sitting for a year and hasn't been started in that timeframe. I don't know whether it has serial or parallel plugs. I've been told it has no major mechanical problems. So the questions: 1) What plan of attack should I take in getting it started? Hints? Things not to do? Think to do? (I know not to use ether for example.) 2) If anyone is familiar with the DMV regulations in VA, what are the requirements for buying and transporting a car out of state? Obviously, this assumes driving it away; putting it on a trailer is a known quantity. ...Kevin '87 300D 282k mi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.7.0/346 - Release Date: 5/23/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.7.0/346 - Release Date: 5/23/2006 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.6.1/343 - Release Date: 18/05/2006 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.7.0/346 - Release Date: 5/23
Re: [MBZ] Will these asymmetrical rims fit my 124?
You can make the 8.5 ET34 rims work in the back, but at the very least you will need to roll the fender lip, and even then you will probably get rubbing under compression depending on the tire width/height you pick. I tried to make such a setup work on my '95 E300D, but finally switched to 17x7.5 ET38 rims with 215/45-17 tires at all 4 corners. I get no rubbing (even with 5 adults) and feel it is a much better setup on a 124 chassis unless you are going to flare the rear fenders (which would be kinda cool, but big $$). Good luck. J.B. At 09:12 AM 5/8/2006, you wrote: Does anyone know if asymmetrical rims (wider in back) fit my S124? I'd prefer them to be uniform and 16, but they seem like nice rims nevertheless. http://seattle.craigslist.org/pts/157326617.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/pts/158145667.html TIA -- Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler #22 (214k) '84 300D (212k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/333 - Release Date: 5/5/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/333 - Release Date: 5/5/2006
Re: [MBZ] air compressors
My compressor calls for 30 weight non-detergent oil. I found some Mobile 1 compressor oil that meets the specifications and used that. Regards, J.B. Hebert At 07:30 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote: what is the preferred oil for an air compressor? M1 or do I need a special oil? TIA all, -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,xxx kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.0/325 - Release Date: 4/26/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.1/326 - Release Date: 4/27/2006
Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
Damnit... I just did my brakes. :) Any chance you accidently forgot to list 124 chassis under the Bilsteins on sale? ;) J.B. At 03:27 PM 12/14/2005, you wrote: These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick--- prices. W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors Sensors $150 W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors Sensors $185 No Wagons W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors Sensors $195 W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors Sensors $180 W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230 W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254 OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7 OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7 Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11 Rusty Cullens BuyMBparts, Inc. http://www.BuyMBparts.com 1-800-741-5252 ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/199 - Release Date: 12/13/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/199 - Release Date: 12/13/2005
Re: [MBZ] Oil Analysis
Does he have a web site? Do they check soot? Sounds like a good deal. J.B. At 10:18 AM 12/13/2005, you wrote: Just wanted to drop a note with kudos for Larry T and his Oil Analysis Company. I just got the results back from the second test on my '96 Dodge Dakota. I LOVE it when the results match what I expected. Fuel in the oil was up a bit which is probably because my wife drives the truck and just sticks around town. At the last sample we'd just come back from a trip with 900 highway miles which kept that number down. I haven't been doing analysis on Hammie (the 240D) because he consumes so much oil it doesn't seem like its worth it, but I will on the 190D once I start driving that regularly. Anyway 3 samples from Larry is $55 and TOTALLY worth it. I'd shopped around before and most labs I found were $25 a pop and didn't have bellows samplers to draw the sample up the dipstick hole. -Curt - Yahoo! Shopping Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/199 - Release Date: 12/13/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/199 - Release Date: 12/13/2005
Re: [MBZ] Glow plug reamer for OM606?
No, the 617 glowplug is much shorter, so the 617 reamer is much shorter. J.B. At 07:12 PM 12/1/2005, you wrote: is it not the same as used on the 617's etc? J.B. Hebert wrote: Does anyone know where I can find a reasonably priced glow plug chamber reamer for an OM606 motor? The only one I've found is by Klann and costs $160 through Samstag Sales. I'm sure its quality is excellent, but I'm not going to use it often enough that I need the very best. Since I paid about $50 for the one for my OM617, I was hoping to find a better deal somewhere. Thanks, J.B. Hebert '76 Ford Bronco / '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 / '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) / '93 GMC Sierra 2500 / '95 Mercedes E300D -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.11/191 - Release Date: 12/2/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/192 - Release Date: 12/5/2005
Re: [MBZ] Glow plug reamer for OM606?
I'd prefer something a little more... elegant. If I'm going to go the fabrication route, I'd rather get a reamer of the appropriate site and machine a threaded sleave that I can screw into the chamber and then insert the reamer into. However, I'll probably keep looking for an option that already exists; worst case scenario I'll just shell out for the Klann. On a similar topic, once I have reamed the chamber, what is the best way to blow the debris out? I have heard of cranking the motor over to do so, but in my case I have to pull the intake to get at the glowplugs and I fear pulling debris into the intake ports on the head, or even worse the car starting. Are these valid fears, or am I just worrying too much? Thanks. J.B. Hebert '76 Ford Bronco / '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 / '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) / '93 GMC Sierra 2500 / '95 Mercedes E300D At 05:47 PM 12/1/2005, you wrote: J.B. Hebert wrote: Does anyone know where I can find a reasonably priced glow plug chamber reamer for an OM606 motor? If you know how wide it's supposed to be, hammer a glow plug flat until it's the right width. ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.11/191 - Release Date: 12/2/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/192 - Release Date: 12/5/2005
Re: [MBZ] Glow plug reamer for OM606?
I called Baum tools today, and they have a reamer for 606 motors, P/N B606-0053. It lists for about $54 (don't remember exactly) and they have plenty in stock. They also stock the older style reamer in both the universal joint style and the plain style, but I didn't get pricing on those. J.B. Hebert '76 Ford Bronco / '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 / '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) / '93 GMC Sierra 2500 / '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/192 - Release Date: 12/5/2005
[MBZ] Glow plug reamer for OM606?
Does anyone know where I can find a reasonably priced glow plug chamber reamer for an OM606 motor? The only one I've found is by Klann and costs $160 through Samstag Sales. I'm sure its quality is excellent, but I'm not going to use it often enough that I need the very best. Since I paid about $50 for the one for my OM617, I was hoping to find a better deal somewhere. Thanks, J.B. Hebert '76 Ford Bronco / '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 / '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) / '93 GMC Sierra 2500 / '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.10/189 - Release Date: 11/30/2005
Re: [MBZ] Running wire from trunk, '93 W124
The 124 chassis cars have cable channels on either side of the vehicle running all the way to the trunk. If you remove the seat bottom, you can see where the channels go under the seat (you will see vacuum lines for the trunk and gas flap locks, and electrical wires). You should be able to use these channels for your wire runs. J.B. At 09:30 AM 11/8/2005, you wrote: Guys, What's the best way to get a radio wire from the trunk to the cabin of a '93 W124? I've tried fishing a stiff wire alongside the cushion but all I run into is metal (tank?). Guess I probably shouldn't drill through that. Do I need to remove the seatback or parcel shelf? What's the best way to get through? TIA, Lee '93 300E 2.5L td 178K ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.8/162 - Release Date: 11/5/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.8/162 - Release Date: 11/5/2005
[MBZ] Mufflers
I just replaced the exhaust system on my '95 E300D. I purchased a new replacement rear muffler, and intended to keep the cat and bypass the resonator with a custom pipe. Once the old system was dropped (original system with 199,000 miles on it - repaired several times by previous owner), it became evident that the cat was not easily repairable. I couldn't afford to shell out the $900 or so (street price) for a replacement cat, so I made up a custom Y pipe and tied it into the new rear muffler. With almost 10' of straight pipe before the muffler, it is EASY to understand the purpose of a resonator. I have seen a marked improvement in performance, especially at the upper RPMs, but I now get the dreaded angry vacuum cleaner sound under full throttle. I am planning on installing an inexpensive glass pack midway on the pipe to resolve this. All in all, I am very happy with the results. If anyone is interested, I will post pics at www.wrxtra.com/Misc/Automotive/Mercedes/exhaust sometime today. And, if anyone wants to know, this is of course a racing diesel that is off-road only, so I do not need the cat anymore... J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.6/152 - Release Date: 10/31/2005
Re: [MBZ] center vents - no heat
My guess would be one or more of the following for your car: 1) Broken solder joints in your climate control computer (intermittent functionality) 2) Deteriorated/missing hose that connects the cabin air temp sensor to the air box (delayed temperature regulation) 3) Leaking vacuum pods and/or lines (improper air direction) 4) Faulty monovalve (max heat, or no heat, depending) It took me a while to sort out the issues on my '82 300CD climate control. I ended up fixing and/or replacing all of the above at one time or another. Good luck. J.B. At 11:01 AM 10/28/2005, you wrote: On my 83' 300D, I've heard so many stories about the climate control not working that I have a hard time telling whether mine is working or not. This center vent thing kind of answers a potential question, though I'm not sure I ever got much out of them in the summer either... It *generally* seems to heat and cool automatically. Though periodically if I leave it on, when I start the car it decides to just turn the fan on full blast with a cold engine when it's supposed to be warming. Also on a couple occasions during the summer it was cooling nicely. Then at some point decided that since it was 90 degrees out and I asked for 72, that I must want maximum heat. But not paying attention to those oddities, The controls themselves and what the manual says seems odd. The defrost button is only ever max fan with max heat? I can only imagine that the theory is that the only time you need that is when you're really cold and frosted badly? and I *thought* the way I understood it looking at the buttons that all the buttons would blow most air to lower vents, but the one next to the defrost button would blow top and bottom. On my car, that one is the ONLY one that I've noticed air blowing at my legs. The others with arrows pointing down only blow out the upper vents. And as mentioned with the center vents, it generally all comes out of the defroster vents and/or side vents. The other thing I'm thinking of is that it seems like once it gets to about the right temp it starts blowing *slightly cool* air in the winter or *slightly warm* air in the summer. Not terribly badly, but enough where I frequently notice it and it seems like it should just shut itself off if it's going to be just gently blowing the wrong temperature air at me... I guess I was just curious if anyone has enough understanding of the system so that they could give me some insight as to whether this is either: -How they are supposed to function -How they normally function -Messed up Or -Some other combination of things. Thanks! Levi (: On 10/28/05, J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The center vents are for A/C and non-heated fresh air venting. Not 100% sure why the system was designed this way, but MB stuck with it at least through the 124 chassis cars. J.B. ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/150 - Release Date: 10/27/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/150 - Release Date: 10/27/2005
Re: [MBZ] Consumers Reports battery ratings
If price were not a consideration, I would run an Optima. However, I can't justify three times the cost on a daily driver. The one place I allow myself the Optima luxury is on my 4x4, where I could be 100 miles from civilization and can't afford to have a battery fail. And even then, I run two, just in case. I could run a standard battery, but it is nice to know if (when) I'm upside down, I'm not going to have a battery leak. I've never been in a situation in another car where a total battery failure would leave me in peril. J.B. At 09:36 PM 10/10/2005, you wrote: I've always been partial to Optima Batteries and so far I have nothing but good things to say about them. If you can take a battery and install it in any position (upside down, sideways) and it works no matter what then its a good battery. Maybe a bit more in price, but it will never leave you stranded and the good part is it protects itself from excessive drain and always provides enough juice to start your car. 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles 72 350SL 108,000 Miles 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion 1999 Mazda Miata -Original Message- From: J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:13:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Consumers Reports battery ratings I've run EverStarts in everything from lawn tractors to 2 Mercedes diesels with 0 problems. Several batteries have been severely abused, being run completely dead numerous times, and they've always bounced back after a good charge. For the price, you can't go wrong. Seat of the pants told me they were good batteries; it's nice to know that scientific tests back that up, as well. J.B. At 09:02 PM 10/9/2005, you wrote: November 2005 issue reports that the Wal Mart EverStart beats the Diehard. Only six of 39 batteries tested met their CCA claims and four of those were EverStart. I didn't know about batteies having a date code so you can pick out a fresh one. They state that most batteries have them. Interesting read. Harry Watkins Newton, MS 86 SDL Silver 85 300D Euro 86 SDL Gold 81 240D manual trans ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/126 - Release Date: 10/9/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/126 - Release Date: 10/9/2005 ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Look What The New Netscape.com Can Do! Now you can preview dozens of stories and have the ones you select delivered to you without ever leaving the Top Home Page. And the new Tool Box gives you one click access to local Movie times, Maps, White Pages and more. See for yourself at http://netcenter.netscape.com/netcenter/ ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/126 - Release Date: 10/9/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/126 - Release Date: 10/9/2005
Re: [MBZ] Speaking of batteries
The Walmart battery book does list MB diesels, however the group 49 battery is rarely stocked, and some Walmarts don't want to order them because they have to order them in lots and don't have the storage for the extras. This has been my experience, anyway, and I'm sure the larger stores wouldn't have a problem. J.B. At 01:04 AM 10/11/2005, you wrote: Steve MacSween wrote: I will shortly be purchasing not one, but TWO for diesels. Someone remind me what group I need for an OM617? I doubt they list it in the Wal Mart isle ;-). I expect that you'll want a group 49 battery - the more expensive Wal-Mart battery looks VERY attractive. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/126 - Release Date: 10/9/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/126 - Release Date: 10/9/2005
[MBZ] Glow plug testing procedure and fuse question
Car is a '95 E300D. It appears that I've lost another glow plug. Since I had been limping by with at least 1 or 2 plugs gone, this puts me at 2 or 3 plugs gone and the weather is only getting colder. I can't seem to find the acceptable resistance to ground email that went around a while ago. Can someone resend it? I should be able to test the plugs at the relay connector, correct? Also, is there a GP fuse on later 124 chassis cars like mine? I popped the cover off my GP relay and didn't see the familiar strip fuse like on my 123 chassis car. Is it located elsewhere now? I'd like to pick up some spares before winter if required. Thanks. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date: 10/4/2005
Re: [MBZ] Glow plug come on after starting
Is that value valid for all years? Thanks, J.B. At 01:30 PM 10/6/2005, you wrote: Is there something wrong with me or what? Anytime I measure plugs cold they always measure around 1.2 ohms, even brand new ones. Marshall Booth wrote: Constantine N. Polites wrote: I'd check the resistance of each glow plug, which should be around 8-11 ohms. Above that, consider changing the glow plug. Properly functioning parallel plugs have a cold resistance of about 0.6 ohms (hot they may be almost twice that). Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date: 10/4/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date: 10/4/2005
Re: [MBZ] Glow plug testing procedure and fuse question
Already planning on pulling the manifold. I don't really see any other way to get good access to them. :( Marshall had noted a value of .6 ohms as being nominal. I assume this is for any parallel plug, but I wasn't sure. Regarding the fuse, I'm sure the car has one, but it does not appear to be on the relay as with other MB diesels I've seen. I'll have to look again and see if I can track it down. I knew I had at least one (probably 2) glow plug dead for a while. The car still started OK, but was obviously missing on one more more cylinders until it warmed up for a bit. With another plug gone, the car still starts fine but misses BADLY one at least two cylinders and smokes pretty bad for a minute or two after cold startup. I'll check the plugs tomorrow while I've got the car in the garage to do the brakes. Thanks. J.B. At 04:17 PM 10/7/2005, you wrote: On Fri, Oct 07, 2005 at 12:22:50PM -0400, J.B. Hebert wrote: Car is a '95 E300D. It appears that I've lost another glow plug. Since I had been limping by with at least 1 or 2 plugs gone, this puts me at 2 or 3 plugs gone and the weather is only getting colder. I can't seem to find the acceptable resistance to ground email that went around a while ago. Can someone resend it? I should be able to test the plugs at the relay connector, correct? Also, is there a GP fuse on later 124 chassis cars like mine? I popped the cover off my GP relay and didn't see the familiar strip fuse like on my 123 chassis car. Is it located elsewhere now? I'd like to pick up some spares before winter if required. The testing procedure I use for any car to test if the glow plug is good or not is simple - measure the resistance through the plug. If the meter thinks that the plug is a dead short AND I haven't blown a fuse, it's fine. If the resistance is higher than a couple of ohms, it's on its way out. If the resistance is infinite, then the plug is definately dead. The only thing that this did not catch was carbon tracing playing with the resistance of one plug in a series plug setup (which you don't have). The plug with the carbon was fine, but the one after it wasn't getting enough juice to light up. Your car should have a strip fuse. Rusty's web page lists them for about a buck and a half. I don't know where it is located on a 124, should probably figure that out. For what it's worth, a six banger will start fine but idle rough on one plug as long as it's not too cold. If you lose two plugs, it'll take forever to start and smoke like a volcano when it does light off. While you're ordering parts, I am pretty sure your 606 has the plugs buried in the intake manifold like my 603s and 601, so you might want to just bite the bullet and yank the intake manifold to make things easier on yourself and your knuckles. Good luck... K -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date: 10/4/2005 J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date: 10/4/2005
Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter in Pieces
I have had that happen with a couple Mann filters in a couple different MB diesels. I figured it wasn't a problem since the filter was contained in its canister (under slight compression by the cover) and the center stem keeps everything aligned. But I may be mistaken. J.B. At 10:29 AM 9/1/2005, you wrote: I changed the oil (I'm not even going to say what type of oil for fear of starting an oil thread) today in my old girl and when I went to take the oil filter out it had come apart. The non-metal shrouded part separated from the metal shrouded part. Strange. It was an Hengst filter. Has anyone ever experienced this? Was this a faulty filter Rusty? Bob Rentfro '77 300D 138K Litchfield Park, AZ ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/86 - Release Date: 8/31/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/86 - Release Date: 8/31/2005
Re: [MBZ] Who's running B100?
My guess is the electronic engine management on your TDI is compensating for the lower BTU's in the B100, whereas the older cars with mechanical systems cannot do that dynamically. I have heard that you can gain back some performance/economy from an older vehicle by advancing the injection timing a degree or two. Regards, J.B. At 01:34 PM 8/30/2005, you wrote: We run B100 in our '03 TDI and B50 in our '82 240D. Our results are basically the same as yours, but I think we've had low to no drop (0 to 10%) in mileage on B100 in the late model TDI; anecdotally, the older the engine (or design thereof), the bigger the drop in mpg going to biodiesel - any hypotheses, folks? DG --- J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have run about 100 gallons of B100 through my '95 E300D (doesn't take long for me) and was looking to compare numbers with others on the list who are running B100. I gathered a fair amount of performance and economy data before and after the switch and was a little surprised by the outcome. Every source I've read on biodiesel indicates that you should expect a slight decrease in power and economy because there is slightly less energy in biodiesel. Well, I have noticed no significant drop in performance as indicated by the stopwatch. The butt dyno tells me that I'm a little down, but barely. So, I was expecting about a 5% drop in power, and I would guess that I am seeing less that 2%. What I have noticed, however, is that my economy is down a little over 15%, from around 29.9 MPG to 25.3 MPG. To make sure it wasn't the car, I ran a few tanks of dino fuel through and it again returned to around 29.9 MPG. Is anyone else out there running B100 who is as anal as I am and documented the changes? I'd love to compare notes. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.16/83 - Release Date: 8/26/2005 ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.16/83 - Release Date: 8/26/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.16/83 - Release Date: 8/26/2005
Re: [MBZ] holy crap, antifreeze has gone up
Yeah... just talked to Tom at buymbparts.com who said it's jumped about $10 in a year. No one knows why, especially since it's made in the USA so no shipping from Germany. I should have stockpiled when it was cheap. :( J.B. At 01:01 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: Was checking the various parts websites and mb antifreeze has gone up to 21 a gallon. Will have to locate some zerex g05 locally. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
That would be great on a VW diesel, but most MB diesels have a mechanical fuel pump. J.B. At 01:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: How bout a home made kill switch? Take a fuse that will fit for your fuel pump. burn it. solder it to a swith w/ an inline fuse -- Original message -- The towel or the fire extinguisher work fine. I have used both. Some marine GM diesels had a flapper in the intake manifold for emergency shutoff. I had a LARGE Sulzer run away with me once (broken shaft in the injector pump distributor). Luckily it had a cutout on EACH injector. I pulled all the cutouts and ran from the engine room. It reached about 1200 rpm before it ran out of fuel (It usually ran at 450-500 rpm). I was lucky. Thomas E. Potter Telephone: (713) 215-2877 Fax: (713) 215-2551 Mobile: (832) 794-0536 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 11:43 AM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures Steve MacSween wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Will someone please review for me the ways to quickly kill the engine if disaster should strike? The ones that come to mind are firing a CO2 fire extinguisher into or stuffing a towel into the air cleaner. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
All the diesel VW's I've seen have electric fuel pumps, so I would assume that no juice means no vroom. Some models may be different, however. J.B. At 02:06 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: So my VW diesel will stop running eventually if I unhook the battery? All I really need my battery for in the MB is to start it up. Tim 1982 300TD Moby On 8/17/05, Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: These diesels do not have electronic fuel pumps. Once started, these motors needs no electricity to stay running. It would be nice if it were that simple. Mathieu At 01:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: How bout a home made kill switch? Take a fuse that will fit for your fuel pump. burn it. solder it to a swith w/ an inline fuse ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.
On an E300D, locate the coolant temp sensor (on the front of the head pointing up) and disconnect the connector. The fans should immediately go to their high speed. J.B. At 01:25 AM 8/3/2005, you wrote: In a message dated 8/2/2005 5:54:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on? The fans come on when high side pressure exceeds 250 psi or when engine temp exceeds 105 deg. C. When the AC is on the fans USUALLY cycle on and off unless outside temps are very cold or very hot when the fans could be always off or on. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine Department of Pharmacology 1300 BST Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA [EMAIL PROTECTED] Do you, or anyone, know a the test procedure to determine if the electric fans work? I have never seen them run. Thank you, Jay 95 MB E300D 92K The new baby 83 MB 300D 241K The silver coffin 99 Mercury Sable wagon 24 valve 72K Cannondale SR500 Allentown, Pa. http://www.thecornerstonefamily.org/ ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] [db] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question
Yep. No smell or funny vapor. J.B. At 08:22 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote: That is strange. Have you tried to turn on the heat and check if you can smell it? Marc Z. '83 300D Turbo '83 300TD '89 Jeep Cherokee ( XJ) Laredo '00 Town and Country J.B. Hebert wrote: So, it was a banner day on Friday when I set my personal best, finally breaking the 30 MPG barrier in my E300D with an average of 30.56 MPG over 558 miles. While I'm sure having a non-operational A/C system has helped, I swear it has been better since the vacuum pump was replaced. Maybe the old pump was on its way out for a while and not operating the diverter flaps in the intake to best effect. This is still lower than I had hoped, but at least it's better. Now for the question: About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant. My first thought was, God, not another head gasket. But inspection reveals no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that matter. The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine is cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays there. As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level never dropped more than another 1/'2 or so, still visible in the reservoir. The other odd thing is that the coolant level is always higher when cold; most often when I start the car the light will be out, then as the car warms up the light comes on. The coolant should expand when hot, so I'd expect the opposite to be true. The cap is new and appears to be holding pressure fine. There is no coolant smell, nor have I found any coolant under the car, in the splash guards, or anywhere else that I can see. The overflow hose is dry and there is no evidence of dry coolant residue near it. This car does not have the second coolant reservoir in the fender. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D
Re: [MBZ] [db] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question
At 11:55 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote: Now for the question: About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant. My first thought was, God, not another head gasket. But inspection reveals no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that matter. The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine is cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays there. As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level never dropped more than another 1/'2 or so, still visible in the reservoir. The other odd thing is that the coolant level is always higher when cold; most often when I start the car the light will be out, then as the car warms up the light comes on. The coolant should expand when hot, so I'd expect the opposite to be true. The cap is new and appears to be holding pressure fine. There is no coolant smell, nor have I found any coolant under the car, in the splash guards, or anywhere else that I can see. The overflow hose is dry and there is no evidence of dry coolant residue near it. This car does not have the second coolant reservoir in the fender. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. There may be air in your system. Did you run out of coolant in the reservoir? Do you park your car at an angle where the coolant in the reservoir is tilted away from the outlet to your radiator? Have someone drive behind your car and see if there is any steam coming out. It's going somewhere, if there is no air in your system that it is replacing. This happened on my motorcycle. I had left air in the system when I changed the coolant. It is a little tough to burp it. Dan I never ran the reservoir empty, and it's always parked flat. The car has been driven about 10,000 miles since the last coolant flush, so I'm not sure it's a bubble from that... it would have to be new. I'll double check the exhaust for traces of coolant, but it seems good from what I've seen. Thanks, J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D
Re: [MBZ] Coolant Question
The problem is that it is stabilizing below the low coolant level, whereas is should be stabilizing around the cold fill level (when cold). That coolant is going somewhere, and it isn't going out the overflow tube. I put a catch can in just to make sure, and it's bone dry. Thanks, J.B. At 10:50 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote: J.B., The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine is cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays there. As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level never dropped more than another 1/'2 or so, still visible in the reservoir. If I understand correctly, your coolant level will drop and then stabilize? If it is stablizing, then I don't see the problem. What is going on is you're over filling, and the excess is leaving via the overflow tube. My car will do the same thing. The 'problem' may be that you are looking for one and it doesn't exist! Very respectfully, /s/ LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR Digest Lurker since 2001 '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd) '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd) '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification' Charleston SC ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass
I have had good luck with Stoner Invisible Glass. It cleans very well, and seems to leave the glass more resistant to film buildup. It does not contain soaps, which are the primary cause of streaking. I get it at Walmart. Good luck. J.B. At 11:43 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote: Any of your folks have any tips on what to use to clean car windows? I am particularly interested in a deep cleaning on the interior side of the windshield (plastic dash = dirty window) and the rear window. Once upon a time I used a spray bottle with distilled water with a drop of baby shampoo but haven't tried that for a while. -- Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer. I don't even need the drum. - LT Don 1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 1972 Honda CB-500K ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question
So, it was a banner day on Friday when I set my personal best, finally breaking the 30 MPG barrier in my E300D with an average of 30.56 MPG over 558 miles. While I'm sure having a non-operational A/C system has helped, I swear it has been better since the vacuum pump was replaced. Maybe the old pump was on its way out for a while and not operating the diverter flaps in the intake to best effect. This is still lower than I had hoped, but at least it's better. Now for the question: About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant. My first thought was, God, not another head gasket. But inspection reveals no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that matter. The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine is cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays there. As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level never dropped more than another 1/'2 or so, still visible in the reservoir. The other odd thing is that the coolant level is always higher when cold; most often when I start the car the light will be out, then as the car warms up the light comes on. The coolant should expand when hot, so I'd expect the opposite to be true. The cap is new and appears to be holding pressure fine. There is no coolant smell, nor have I found any coolant under the car, in the splash guards, or anywhere else that I can see. The overflow hose is dry and there is no evidence of dry coolant residue near it. This car does not have the second coolant reservoir in the fender. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D
Re: [MBZ] Stop me please before I do something I will regret
Hey now... what about this CD? I could see a road trip in my future if it's a decent enough car. :) J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D At 03:53 PM 7/29/2005, you wrote: Oh, the agony. I go through it at least once a week. There is a nice '82 300CD here in Houston for $1500 that I can barely restrain myself from going to look at buy. I feel your pain! Thomas E. Potter Telephone: (713) 215-2877 Fax: (713) 215-2551 Mobile: (832) 794-0536 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 2:37 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: [MBZ] Stop me please before I do something I will regret On an errand this morning, saw a 450SEL with a for sale, $1200. Looked pretty nice, blue/blue, paint a bit faded, a few dings here and there, interior nice. Called the guy, it's a 77, 120k miles or so, A/C working but might need a recharge, tranny takes a few minutes to start shifting right but then OK, he's owned it since 81, all service at Enzo Luzo's place in that time. Probably get it for $1k. Stop me please. --R ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] eBay issues
Hooked up to a decent compressor, mine pulls as much or more vacuum than my mechanic's Yellow Jacket pump. Don't expect to get good results with a dinky compressor, though. J.B. At 10:49 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote: Those will not pull enough vacuum for any serious AC work. The point is to boil the water out of the system, those are not up to the job. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: BTW if you need a cheap pump for AC work these work very well and are available from harbour freight for 16$. The red ones are setup for r-12 bleu for r-134 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-AIR-CONDITIONER-VACUUM-PUMP-A-C-CHARGER-GAS-PUMP_W0QQitemZ7988519625QQcategoryZ46094QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Original message -- On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:32:58 -0500 OK Don wrote: I'm bidding on one now - but it's stated to be reconditioned. Your seller wasn't msmc1959 msmc1959iid=7532137694frm=284 by any chance was it? No. It was summer8777. The auction is at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7521186804rd=1sspagename=ST RK%3AMEWN%3AITrd=1 I originally paid through PayPal, completing my half of the transaction, but the seller said she couldn't receive the money through PayPal. She then refunded it and had me send a personal check. Craig ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Tips on Replacing A/C Condenser (124)?
I will be swapping out the A/C condenser in my '95 E300D soon. The process looks pretty straight forward, but I was currious if the radiator has to be completely removed (per the manual) or if it could be unclipped and tipped enough to allow the condenser to slip out. If I have to drain and remove the radiator completely, it obviously adds a significant amount of time and effort to the job. Can anyone who as done this chime in on the radiator issue? I'm pretty sure it's the same process on all '89 and later 124 chassis cars with the double aux. fans. Are there any other gotchas to worry about? Thanks. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D
Re: [MBZ] '97 300D
If you want the best of both worlds (from a 124 chassis fanatic's viewpoint, anyway), the '95 E300D would be it. Same motor as the '96/'97 210 chassis car, in the 124 chassis. Most people that have one love them. And I will agree that the non-turbo 606 drives like an earlier turbodiesel, without the lag and turbo whine. I have to imagine a turbo 606 is pretty close to nirvana with 177 HP and 244 lb. ft. of torque. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D At 03:56 PM 7/20/2005, you wrote: the e300d has a torque curve that apparently never ends, even smoother and quieter than the 300td w124 i drove, and that car shook my world as i had stepped from a w116 into that i did notice the seats seemed a bit odd, almost vw-like in shape and dimensions, but i am very large and have a weak back so i notice stuff like that very quickly mac today's lesson is that honey in coffee makes for an unhappy keyboard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wed, Jul 20, 2005 at 03:36:27PM -0400, Steve MacSween wrote: the w124 is a lovely car with its turbodiesel, but i can assure you that once you drive an e300d you will think that every other older mercedes you have ever driven was an oxcart... i absolutely could not believe it, smooth, responsive and handles like it is on rails The one 210 I've driven (an e430 sport) didn't do it for me. I don't think it was a particularly well cared for example, but the dead spot in the middle of the torque curve really turned me off to the whole car. I found the 528i more impressive of a car, even with significantly less power. sorry but i spilled coffee down my keyboard and lost my caps, lol I thought you were channelling Kaleb for a minute there... :) K ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] A/C condenser question
Thanks! J.B. At 09:44 AM 7/18/2005, you wrote: Hood switch is tied to the antitheft/alarm system. No a/c issue there, J.B. joe ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Small diesel
Subaru markets a line of small single cylinder diesel motors under the Robin name. Northern Tool sells single cylinder Hatz diesels from 4.6 HP to 10 HP with a horizontal shaft and recoil start. Kubota, Yanmar, and Mitsubishi all make small tractor motors ranging from 2 to 4 cylinders and 12 HP and up. I'm sure there are many others out there. J.B. Hebert -- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased) '93 GMC Sierra 2500 '95 Mercedes E300D At 12:51 PM 6/28/2005, you wrote: What is the smallest diesel engine commercially available? Maybe something like lawnmower size, a few HP? I think I recall seeing back when I was a kid (more than 10 20 30 years ago) some little model airplane engines that were diesels (come to think of it, the 2 cycle screamers were compression engines I guess, with a glow plug to start them, ran on nitromethane or whatever that stuff was that Cox sold you in a can, and it burned very hot with no visible flame, and stung like hell) but I might be misremembering. Are there some that are used in trucks to run gensets or A/C units while they are stopped? --R ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Wanna buy a '92 S124 w/500hp OM606?
I could be convinced to trade in my E300D on it. That is a beautiful car. J.B. At 07:47 PM 6/14/2005, you wrote: Hope yer Finnish is as good as mine: http://mersuforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23615 Kiitos! Casey Biodiesel: '87 300TD intercooler (205k) '84 300D (202k) Gasser: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k) Olympia, WA _ Looking for quality used parts? We are parting out several 108, 109, 114, 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis Mercedes-Benz. Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] for requests. ___ Need new parts? Check out out Rusty at www.buymbparts.com for your best deal on new parts. ___ Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
