[MBZ] Mercedes List

2021-12-05 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Hi, I would like to get back on the Mercedes list.

Thanks,

Jerry Herrman

jer...@san.rr.com

619 341 3574

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[MBZ] Lubricant for Protecting Tools

2021-09-10 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
This is way off topic, but I am looking for some advice and you guys are a
rich source of information.  Some tools and hardware were exposed to
moisture and I am drying them out. Some of the tools have surface rust.
Using a minimum of time, I want to rub a light coating of oil on these.
Don't  want to go out and buy another product  because I am in the process
of downsizing. However, I have a plentiful supply of various lubricants
including,  motor oils, two-cycle oil, ATF, original STP (remember that?),
power steering fluid, gear oil, 3-in-1 oil,  jack oil, bar and chain oil,
Marvel Mystery Oil, cutting fluid, Tung oil, linseed oil, a variety of  cup
grease, wheel bearing  grease, water proof grease, and lithium grease, and
any number of dry, silicone, and other spray lubricants. Which might be the
most useful  and least messy for this purpose?

Jerry

82 240D

 

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[MBZ] Sharpening drill bits

2021-01-16 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Thanks for the response on the Harbor Freight drill bits. Kinda what I
expected to hear. I'll plan to use them for wood, plastic, and aluminum. I
have quite a collection of drill bits, mostly high speed steel, which are
now in various stages of dull.

Given that, my next question is about drill bit sharpeners. I have tried a
couple of those several years ago including a Black and Decker. Took too
much time to sharpen them and the results were  not satisfactory. I'm pretty
sure some of that was due to the user's (me) lack of skill. Sharpening by
hand is out of the question for me. I am just a casual user, mostly in wood,
but I'd like some drill bits that will perform well in the drill press with
metal.

The ad for Drill Doctor seems to suggest that it easy to use and effective.
What has been your experience with that? Is it worth the price? Does the
cutting stone need replacement?

Jerry

240D

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[MBZ] Drill Bit Set

2021-01-16 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I bought the 29 piece Harbor Freight Titanium drill bit set for about $11.
Wondering what I can expect from these drill bits, with particular reference
to their performance in cutting metal.

Jerry

82 240D

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[MBZ] Taps, Dies, and Allen Wrenches

2020-12-13 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Thanks guys for all  the suggestions. Next year I'll ask about where to hide
all the extra car parts (especially the unattractive used ones) so the lady
of the house doesn't see them. 

Have a nice Christmas.

Jerry 

240D (I won't list the extra parts here)

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[MBZ] Taps, Dies, and Allen Wrenches

2020-12-13 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I have a good assortment of taps, handles and a few dies, along with an
unknown number of duplicates, mostly SAE. However, they are just lying in a
drawer. When I need one, I have to search through the collection. Is there a
system for organizing the taps similar to a drill index which allows the
user to go right to the one needed? I am not inclined to spend money on a
container. Looking for an idea someone might have come up with to sort them
in an inexpensive way that doesn't take up much room. Come to think of it,
I'm looking for something similar for the numerous disorganized Allen
wrenches.

 

Jerry

1982  240D

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[MBZ] Alternate Uses for P/S Fluid?

2020-11-22 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I am in the process of straightening up my garage to clear out some of the
clutter. I'm finding lots of items that I haven't needed for several years.
I have the tendency to keep these things "just in case". Among those items
are about five containers  (some open, some sealed) of power steering fluid.
Are there any alternate uses for  power steering fluid?

Jerry Herrman

82 240D

 

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[MBZ] Water Heater Maintenance

2020-06-10 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I'd like to jump into the middle of this discussion with two questions and
two comment. I too have heard that the difference between the two prices for
a water heater is that the higher priced one comes with a longer warranty
(here in San Diego six years vs. nine years last I checked). I've also heard
from supposedly reliable sources that the higher priced one truly is a
better built product. Is there a way to know for sure? Given the effort to
change out a WH, I would opt for the higher priced one if it truly is better
quality. 

What is the prevailing opinion on changing out the sacrificial anode rod on
a gas WH after X number of years? I've never done it myself. Plumbers  I've
asked say it will prolong the life of the tank. Yet I am not aware of any
homeowner who has done that job. I'm a little nervous about trying. 

- How will I know which is the correct one?

- It might be too tight to get the old one out or need a heavy duty impact
wrench to do the job 

- Often there is insufficient  clearance above the heater  (I am aware there
are segmented rods)

- Will it affect the normal warranty? 

- short of pulling the old one out, how will I know when it needs to be
replaced?

I hear over and over the importance of draining the water each year. I've
never done that. Mostly because I don't know how to remove the water and
gunk that accumulates in the bottom of the tank below the level of the
drain.

In recent years, I have replaced several  water heaters on a preventive
basis that were installed in rentals in the eighties. Nothing wrong with
them, just wanted to head off any trouble.  I doubt the anode rods were
changed out or the water drained. None of the water heaters I have installed
since the nineties has lasted substantially longer than the warranty. 

One more comment. Is there a premium brand that gives a longer life?

 

 

 

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[MBZ] Can ultraviolet light penetrate glass.

2020-04-22 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I did not know where to get this question answered so I decided to submit it
to the boys at The Mercedes Digest.  Somebody there surely knows the
answer. After all, it is an automotive question, right? 

After wearing my COVID face mask in the car, I leave it on the dashboard  so
the sun's rays have an opportunity to kill any harmful microbes that may be
present. Which brings up the question of whether or not  the ultraviolet
rays can penetrate glass, specifically automotive windshield glass. It is my
understanding that to kill microbes, a wavelength of 254 nanometers is
necessary, most of which doesn't make it to earth. So is this a useful
practice or a fool's errand?

Jerry 

1982 240D

 

 

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[MBZ] Parasitic Draw

2020-03-29 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I thought I had submitted this acknowledgement, but apparently I did not.
Thanks to anyone else who commented on my question subsequently.

 

Thanks, Dan Penoff, for your prompt response and the clear instruction for
determining the source for "leaking" electrical current.

Thanks also to Craig for showing how to use a test light to make this
determination. The picture you attached made it clear how to proceed with
that method.

Scott Ritchey, thanks for the additional information about the computers.

I learned something new from all of you.

 

May I thicken the plot? I was so enthusiastic about this new-found
knowledge, I decided to apply it to a second car, a 91 Volvo (also)240,
because whenever I apply the negative cable to the battery post on that car
I also get a small spark. That has never resulted in a dead or weak battery,
although that car sometimes sits unused for periods of time. Sure enough,
the 12 v test light bulb went on. However, it faded out after about one
second. By repeated tests, I learned that after removing the test light, it
takes about 10 or so seconds for it to recover. If I re-connect the test
light right away, the bulb will not light up. Does this provide some clue as
to what the electricity stealing culprit might be?

 

Minor issue - I did not know that pictures could be attached to these
submissions. Is there a set of instructions to follow to submit a photo?

Jerry Herrman

1982 240D

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[MBZ] Parasitic Draw

2020-03-28 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Is a parasitic draw test  a procedure that can be applied to any car? Today
I discovered that the  2005 Honda Odyssey, which had been parked unused for
the last three weeks or so, has a totally dead one year old Bosch battery.
It took a charge so I left it on the charger for a few hours. It works now.
The only "parasitic draw test" I know is disconnecting the negative cable
and then touching that negative cable to the battery post, checking to see
if there is a spark. There was a tiny spark, indicating that electricity is
being drawn from something. What should I know about parasitic draw at this
point in order to proceed?

Jerry

82 240D

 

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[MBZ] Submitting Photos

2018-11-30 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Is there a procedure for including a photo with a submission? Is the
procedure in writing somewhere?

 

Jerry

1982  240

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[MBZ] Dielectric Grease

2018-05-19 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I need expert advice. I had a terrible time removing the spark plug
(ignition) wires from the spark plugs on a 60's GM car. That was on the
easy-to-get-to wires. The ones down and behind other items were even harder
to get off, because of the awkward position of my hands. I could only use
the pulling power of two fingers to grasp two of them. I ended up using a
small vice grip and a small pry bar to get them off. I decided to find out
what I could apply so that the wires will be easier to remove in the future.
Asking around, the universal recommendation seemed to be to use a product
sold at all of the auto parts stores. However, that product is dielectric
grease. It is my understanding that dielectric grease is an insulator, a non
conductor. After applying dielectric grease to the inside of the boot and to
the porcelain (avoiding the metal tip and the metal terminal on the wire),
the wires are still hard to remove and put back on. It is the metal to metal
contact between the end of the ignition wire and the nipple on the top of
the plug that is making it difficult to remove and put back on. Should I be
applying some sort of lubricant to the tip of the spark plug? If so, what is
recommended? 

 Also, what do I need to know about dielectric grease and where to apply,
and not to apply it? If there is a good You Tube video that discusses this,
I am interested.

I'll thank you in advance for your suggestions.

 

 

Jerry

1982 240 D

No spark plugs

 

 

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[MBZ] OT: Odyssey Sliding Door

2017-02-24 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
This non-Mercedes inquiry is in the hopes that one of you mechanically
minded enthusiasts may have encountered this problem and can throw some
light on it. We have a 2005 Honda Odyssey pushing 100,000 miles. The side
doors are operated electrically from a switch in the cabin or from a button
on the key fob. Recently the left side door would no longer operate
electrically, but could be opened or closed manually. Checking YouTube I
found one video that presented a tutorial on resetting or "homing" the
automatic sliding door (Automatic Sliding Door Reset 2005 Honda Odyssey
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdV1CPgUECI). It suggested pulling the #7
fuse to reset. I tried that and was astonished to find that the door opened
and closed electrically the one time I tried it. An hour later, I opened and
closed the door once, then on the second try it would no longer work
electrically. This morning I reset it again and it worked for a couple of
cycles, then stopped working. Sounds like an electrical rather than a
mechanical problem.   The dealer wants about $300 to $400 to diagnose and
fix it.

Anyone have insight into this issue?

Jerry 

82  240D (no electric doors or windows to fail)

 

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[MBZ] OT Sanding Belts

2016-11-06 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Been using my electric belt sander recently on wood and finding that the
belts ( 3" X 21") do not last more than a few minutes because they come
apart at the seams, every one of them. I suspect it's because they are old -
but why? Do they deteriorate with age? Do they have a shelf life? Anyone
know where fresh, inexpensive ones are available?

 

Jerry 

82 240D

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[MBZ] O.T. - Interchange Manual

2015-02-01 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I spent a portion of this afternoon, including the game, to search online for a 
free data base/interchange manual. I learned that the Bible is the Hollander 
Interchange Manual. Beyond that I did not find anything useful. I prefer not to 
pay the price for an expensive manual.

Here is the situation. I have a 1960 Olds and one of the trunk lid hinge 
springs (a torsion bar) just snapped so I need a new one. Odds are some other 
GM model will have the identical part. Knowing which ones will give me a wider 
range of possibilities to shop. Best case scenario would be a Tri Five Chevy as 
parts are more readily available for them because of the demand. While I am at 
it, I will search for hood springs, as they are just as likely to break.

Also, I need a new master cylinder. Last time I changed out the MC (in the 
nineties), the parts counterman told me they had none for the 60 Olds, and that 
a 57 Chevy MC would fit. I bought that and installed it, so I know that part is 
interchangeable, but I do not know which of the manual master cylinders for 
1957 is the exact fit. (I am guessing it is the MC2).



I will welcome any advice on how to proceed to find out which parts I can 
obtain from other makes/models/years of GM cars.

 



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[MBZ] Mercedes pictures - L.A.Auto Show

2014-11-27 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
OMG - that's what my car (see below) looked like when it was new, before the 
previous owner put 120,000 miles on it and sold it to me. Exact same color. I 
want that car. I promise I won't get it dirty.
Am I allowed to post the link? Here it is:

 
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/events-gatherings/362665-mercedes-pictures-motor-press-guild-motoring-invitational.html?utm_source=pelican_mercedesnewsletterutm_medium=emailutm_campaign=20141127

Jerry 
1982 240D 


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[MBZ] Liquid Penetrants

2014-08-17 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
Thanks, guys, for the suggestions. It strikes me as ironic that the 
manufacturers back in the day produced high quality brass bib faucets and 
topped them off with a cheap quality handle made of pot metal.
The salvage value of yellow brass is now about $2 per pound.

Jerry
82 240D
Salvage value way less that $2 per pound


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[MBZ] Liquid Penetrants

2014-08-16 Thread Jerry Herrman via Mercedes
I have come to appreciate the benefits of applying  penetrants such as Liquid 
Wrench prior to dismantling  metal fasteners such as stuck bolts, etc. One 
exception -  I have not  found this to be helpful when used for removing the 
handles of ordinary garden faucets. Wondering what others of you have 
experienced in this regard. 

By way of context, with the drought condtions in California, I am installing 
drip irrigation to feed drought resistant plants in the yard and control the 
water flow using ordinary bib faucets (pipe thread at one end and male hose 
fitting on the other). Being frugal, I use old discarded brass hose bibs and 
make 'em good-as-new by replacing the faucet washer and stem packing, then 
applying plumbers grease to the stem threads. This is easier to do when the 
faucet handle is removed. I have had little success with stubborn handles (on a 
splined shaft) despite applying Liquid Wrench over a period of days and using 
a puller intended for the purpose. Applying too much force usually results in 
breaking the faucet handle. Could it be that this type of product won't 
penetrate in this area?

Jerry

82 240D 



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