[MBZ] AD for 1985 300 TD Wagon

[mark maturo]

 
   
  If anyone is interestedThis ad is in a paper that circulates in CT.  I 
have not seen the car.
   
  dark blue with tan interior, 178,500 mi, pb, pdl, sunroof, air, pw, 
all power, auto, cruise, CD, workhorse has all the expected options, regular 
and snows, 8 wheels, and thousands of miles left in it, runs well, exc int, 
little rust on wheel wells, good bio-diesel option, needs some attention, Call 
for details, $2000 OBO. (203) 588-0672 (2X) . Stamford, CT 
  
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 20:08:33 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] removing tank screen
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On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 19:27:08 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks, but we are talking about the screen in the bottom of the tank. 
> Seems like I bought a socket to remove the sender, wonder if its the 
> same size.

And what does:

> >  the strainer (accessable from under the car) both
> > measure 1.804" across the flats.

mean, but the strainer (or screen) in the bottom of the tank?


Craig

Re: [MBZ] cheap 124 wagon

[mark maturo]

not if the car is from the original owner. Not all states record mileage at 
inspection. so the mileage can be turned back.  Also carfax doesn't always 
record accidents... I've seen many totaled cars at auctions and the insurance 
companies didn't process the titles to salvage. Carfax does not catch these.

Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  mark maturo wrote:
> 
> If you click on the seller's name you will see this guy is always selling 
> mint condition > 1980's diesels with low mileage. Where do you suppose he 
> gets them?

Dial-an-odometer? Of course, that's hard to do effectively in the carfax era.

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Re: [MBZ] cheap 124 wagon

[mark maturo]

If you click on the seller's name you will see this guy is always selling mint 
condition 1980's diesels with low mileage.  Where do you suppose he gets them?

"Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300TD-DIESEL-1987-300TD-TURBO-DIESEL-WAGON-113K-ORIG-MILES-MINT-COND_W0QQitemZ120048984202QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust

[mark maturo]

The parts are genuine and the price is good so I will go with you Rusty after I 
determine if I'm buying both pieces or not.  The center muffler rotted at the 
weld points going in and out of the muffler and at the flange weld where it 
connects to the front pipe.  The rear muffler rusted at all the weld points for 
the brackets but the muffler itself only has surface rust.  I want to prop the 
muffler up to the front pipe flange and attach it with a $1.99 adapter to hear 
what the car sounds like without the center muffler.  This will determine 
whether I purchase the rear muffler with or without the center muffler.  Might 
not get to it until the weekend.  Prices good until next week?
   
  Thanks

"Potter, Tom E" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  The muffler shop replaced the rear muffler on my 380SE for $65. I'm sure
it was not GENUINE Mercedes, but it seemed to hold up OK.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mark maturo
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 12:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Exhaust

My friend told me Adist had the Center and Rear mufflers for around 600.
When I looked it up the exact price would be $655. I checked with
Timevalve in CT mentioned in Peter Frederick's post.. they said 635.00
for the two mufflers. Can you get them for less? I didn't see anything
on the website.

Rusty wrote: Mark, that is a great price. Who
gave you that quote?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mark maturo
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 8:02 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Exhaust

My exhaust is rotting on my 1991 350SD. Priced the center and rear
muffler and comes to around $600. Does anyone know if the center
muffler can be eliminated. Is it for noise or emissions? 

Thanks 

Mark Maturo
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust

[mark maturo]

My friend told me Adist had the Center and Rear mufflers for around 600.  When 
I looked it up the exact price would be $655.  I checked with Timevalve in CT 
mentioned in Peter Frederick's post.. they said 635.00 for the two mufflers.  
Can you get them for less?  I didn't see anything on the website.

Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:   Mark, that is a great price. Who gave you 
that quote?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mark maturo
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 8:02 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Exhaust

My exhaust is rotting on my 1991 350SD. Priced the center and rear
muffler and comes to around $600. Does anyone know if the center
muffler can be eliminated. Is it for noise or emissions? 

Thanks 

Mark Maturo
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[MBZ] Exhaust

[mark maturo]

My exhaust is rotting on my 1991 350SD.  Priced the center and rear muffler and 
comes to around $600.  Does anyone know if the center muffler can be 
eliminated.  Is it for noise or emissions?  
   
  Thanks 
   
  Mark Maturo

Re: [MBZ] cheap wagon

[mark maturo]

Thanks. I didn't know the terminology.  I've never bid on anything.  I agree it 
does sound fishy but wouldn't the seller bid a lot higher to make people think 
it was worth more?  And why isn't he showing the interior?  Also ,the back 
looks like it is sitting kind of low.  

Michael Hall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Lets see - the no reserve, the bidder 
opened an account TODAY, bidder name
is mercedes related but not exactly the product being sold (an attempt to
make people think its a mercedes type person bidding), the bid was placed 15
minutes after the seller answered my question about rust (ie got home from
worked, answered some questions, opened and account and placed a bid).

Shill bidding is bidding that artificially inflates the price of the
auction, ie the seller bidding on his own item under a different name.
While abhored on eBay, the practice is accepted at dealer car auctions,
where half the time, you're bidding against the coke machine in the corner.

Mike


On 9/27/06, mark maturo wrote:
>
> what is shill bidding?
>
> Michael Hall wrote: If that doesn't reek of
> shill bidding, I dunno what does.
>
> On 9/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> >
> > It has one now.
> >
> > andrew strasfogel wrote:
> >
> > > I can't believe it has no bids. The TL lenses alone are worth $200...
> > >
> > > On 9/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-W123-1981-Mecedes-Benz-300TD-Wagon-300-turbo-diesel-sunroof_W0QQitemZ270033823857QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> > >>--
> > >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> > >>91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL,
> > >>87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2,
> > >>84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> > >>http://www.striplin.net
> > >>
> > >>___
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> > >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>
> > >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> > >>
> > >
> > > ___
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> > >
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> > 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL,
> > 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2,
> > 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> > http://www.striplin.net
> >
> > ___
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
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>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] cheap wagon

[mark maturo]

what is shill bidding?

Michael Hall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  If that doesn't reek of shill bidding, 
I dunno what does.

On 9/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
>
> It has one now.
>
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>
> > I can't believe it has no bids. The TL lenses alone are worth $200...
> >
> > On 9/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-W123-1981-Mecedes-Benz-300TD-Wagon-300-turbo-diesel-sunroof_W0QQitemZ270033823857QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >>--
> >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL,
> >>87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2,
> >>84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> >>http://www.striplin.net
> >>
> >>___
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> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> > ___
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL,
> 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 86 300SDL, 84 380SE, 84 190D 2.2,
> 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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[MBZ] Mark Maturo/HLIFE is out of the office.

[Mark . Maturo]

I will be out of the office starting  08/22/2006 and will not return until
08/28/2006.

I will respond to your message when I return.   For urgent issues please
contact Ahmad Daneshmand.



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Re: [MBZ] oil in ALDA line

[mark maturo]

Thanks, now I can scratch this one off my to do list.

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  mark maturo wrote:
> I noticed that there is some oil in the line clear line coming from the ALDA 
> to the switch over valve on the inner fender well. On the fender well is also 
> some residulal oil from the switch over valve but the valve is not dripping 
> oil. My ALDA holds the proper PSI when pumped up. Is this normal on a 603.970?

YES!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] oil in ALDA line

[mark maturo]

I noticed that there is some oil in the line clear line coming from the ALDA to 
the switch over valve on the inner fender well.  On the fender well is also 
some residulal oil from the switch over valve but the valve is not dripping 
oil.  My ALDA holds the proper PSI when pumped up.  Is this normal on a 603.970?
   
  Thanks

[MBZ] Mark Maturo/HLIFE is out of the office.

[Mark . Maturo]

I will be out of the office starting  07/24/2006 and will not return until
07/31/2006.

I will respond to your message when I return.



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Re: [MBZ] oil leak

[Mark . Maturo]

Thanks,  it will be this weekends project.


Mark Maturo



   
 Marshall Booth
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 >  To 
 Sent by:  Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes-bounces@  
 okiebenz.com   cc 
   
   Subject 
 07/26/2006 09:21  Re: [MBZ] oil leak  
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 Mercedes  
  Discussion List  
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  z.com>   
   
   




mark maturo wrote:
> by the threaded ring you mean the prechamber, right?  Do you know how it
comes out?

NO! The threaded ring is what secures the prechamber to the head. It's
the threaded ring that requires a special splined wrench (602 589 00 33
00) to remove that commonly cracks. I've NEVER heard of a bad prechamber
in a modern engine (unless someone uses starter fluid to start the engine).

http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/01-417.pdf

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] oil leak

[mark maturo]

by the threaded ring you mean the prechamber, right?  Do you know how it comes 
out?

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Peter Frederick wrote:
> The heat sheild/seal or the pre-chamber seal is leaking. This allows 
> unburned fuel to slowly ooze out, looks just like 30 wt lubricating 
> oil. If the inside of the thread around the injector is leaking, it's 
> the injector seal, just have it replaced. If the thread for the 
> pre-chamber is leaking, you must have the prechamber pulled and the 
> seal replaced as well.
> 
> I've seen this on several engines (MB and not), drives people nuts 
> looking for an oil leak when the material is residual fuel instead.

What Peter said - EVEN if it doesn't look like that. You need to remove 
the threaded ring - it WILL be cracked - REPLACE it. This is quite 
common with OM60x engines with inclined injection!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] A/C

[mark maturo]

How can I determine if my 1991 607 engine has already been converted from R12 
to R34?
   
  Thanks

Re: [MBZ] oil leak

[mark maturo]

I pulled the injector and replaced the heat shield. Still leaks.  Doesn't look 
like it is coming from the pre chamber threads. What is used to pull the 
prechamber? Some of the injector threads are nicked could this cause a leak?
   
   
  Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  The heat sheild/seal or the pre-chamber seal is leaking. This allows 
unburned fuel to slowly ooze out, looks just like 30 wt lubricating 
oil. If the inside of the thread around the injector is leaking, it's 
the injector seal, just have it replaced. If the thread for the 
pre-chamber is leaking, you must have the prechamber pulled and the 
seal replaced as well.

I've seen this on several engines (MB and not), drives people nuts 
looking for an oil leak when the material is residual fuel instead.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] oil leak

[mark maturo]

my car is a 1991 350sd

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  mark maturo wrote:
> Has anyone had any experiences with oil coming out of an injector. It 
> definitely isn't the return line. I replaced them all and it is definitely 
> oil not diesel. It has been a problem for a while but now it is getting 
> worse. Looking at my #2 injector oil can be seen coming from where it screws 
> into the head. You can see it slightly bubbling but not flowing out. When I 
> drive, it at first sprayed a little oil, but now a lot is being sprayed out 
> to where I see oil on the underside of the hood. 

Easier to answer if you say what year and model car you have! Most of 
what people refer to as OIL is actually #2 diesel that's been boiled a bit!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] oil leak

[mark maturo]

Has anyone had any experiences with oil coming out of an injector.  It 
definitely isn't the return line. I replaced them all and it is definitely oil 
not diesel.  It has been a problem for a while but now it is getting worse.  
Looking at my #2 injector oil can be seen coming from where it screws into the 
head.  You can see it slightly bubbling  but not flowing out.  When I drive, it 
at first sprayed a little oil, but now a lot is being sprayed out to where I 
see oil on the underside of the hood.  
   
  Thanks

Re: [MBZ] Overheating

[Mark . Maturo]

Thanks for your responses. I haven't drained the oil yet to make sure if
there is coolant in the oil. It is hard to tell from the dipstick except
that it appears the level of oil is higher and when I rub it there is an
anti freeze feeling to the oil.  There can't be too much coolant in the oil
because it never circulated through the thermostat into the block.  I'm
probably going to have to pull the head and hope it is a only the gasket.
Another question I have though is, if there is coolant in my oil will this
have any adverse effects on any other parts that the oil circulates
through?




Mark Maturo



   
 Marshall Booth
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 >  To 
 Sent by:  Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes-bounces@  
 okiebenz.com   cc 
   
   Subject 
 07/11/2006 06:54  Re: [MBZ] Overheating   
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 Mercedes  
  Discussion List  
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  z.com>   
   
   




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi
>
> I recently put an injection pump in my 603.970.  Started right up and was
> running great.  I was letting the engine idle in the drive way so the
> thermostat would open and then I was going to top off the coolant.  I
> walked away for a few minutes and when I came back the car was
overheating
> and the gauge was in the red.  I checked the thermostat and it opens.
> However I replaced it with a new one any way.  Car still overheats.  I
took
> the waterpump out and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it.  I
> do hear a slight rubbing sound when I turn it by hand.  The car
definitely
> isn't getting any coolant through the upper hose.  I checked the oil and
> there seems to be some antifreeze in the coolant now.  Prior to the
> overheating there were no signs of coolant in the oil.  My questions are:
> Since there is trace antifreeze in the oil does this definitiely mean the
> head gasket cracked from the overheating?  Could a waterpump that seems
to
> be ok not circulate the coolant for anyother reason and  is there any
other
> possible reasons for the coolant not to circulate?  Car was sitting since
> feb. before I replaced the injection pump.  When I fill the coolant from
> the resoivoir should coolant fill up the radiator and come out the top
> hose?

What you report is EXACTLY what will happen if there is a big air bubble
in the cooling system. Rarely happens unless the head or head gasket has
already failed. You CAN'T service the car by starting it and walking
away! If you can stay there - DON'T start.

The water pump MAY be defective (should scrape) and if there is
anti-freeze/coolant in the oil (or vice versa), then either the head or
head gasket has failed. Both failures are very rare in that engine (but
can happen). Usually that engine simple starts consuming oil at an
outrageous rate!

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Overheating

[Mark . Maturo]

I drained the coolant to replace the hoses while I was waiting for the pump
to be rebuilt.  I set the timing on the pump with the $25 dollar tool that
screws in the side of the pump and locks it into position to be put back in
at 15 egrees ATDC.  Car runs fine and quiet until it overheats which does
not occur rapidly.  I guess I should pull the head?

Mark Maturo



   
 Peter Frederick   
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 .net>  To 
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   Subject 
 07/10/2006 06:12  Re: [MBZ] Overheating   
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 Mercedes  
  Discussion List  
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Several possibilities here.

One, if you drained the coolant you didn't get enough in there before
you started it (although I don't know off the top of my head why you
would have).

If the temp gauge was in the red, very likely the head itself is
cracked, not just the gasket.

How did you set the timing for the IP?  Grossly advanced timing will
cause severe overheating.

Peter


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[MBZ] Overheating

[Mark . Maturo]

Hi

I recently put an injection pump in my 603.970.  Started right up and was
running great.  I was letting the engine idle in the drive way so the
thermostat would open and then I was going to top off the coolant.  I
walked away for a few minutes and when I came back the car was overheating
and the gauge was in the red.  I checked the thermostat and it opens.
However I replaced it with a new one any way.  Car still overheats.  I took
the waterpump out and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it.  I
do hear a slight rubbing sound when I turn it by hand.  The car definitely
isn't getting any coolant through the upper hose.  I checked the oil and
there seems to be some antifreeze in the coolant now.  Prior to the
overheating there were no signs of coolant in the oil.  My questions are:
Since there is trace antifreeze in the oil does this definitiely mean the
head gasket cracked from the overheating?  Could a waterpump that seems to
be ok not circulate the coolant for anyother reason and  is there any other
possible reasons for the coolant not to circulate?  Car was sitting since
feb. before I replaced the injection pump.  When I fill the coolant from
the resoivoir should coolant fill up the radiator and come out the top
hose?

Thanks



Mark Maturo




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Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor

[Mark . Maturo]

Marshall,

Using the bubble technique... is the 24 BTDC for all engines?  The cd rom
says 15 BTDC for the 603 engine (yes the rod bender) when setting the start
of delivery.  Or is the timing mark different because of the method?

Thanks



Mark Maturo



   
 Marshall Booth
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 >  To 
 Sent by:  Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes-bounces@  
 okiebenz.com   cc 
   
   Subject 
 06/28/2006 07:49  Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 Mercedes  
  Discussion List  
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  z.com>   
   
   




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set the
> start of delivery on the inj. pump?  Rusty, how much is a new one?
>  Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?

You can set the timing PERFECTLY using the locking screw 601 589 05 21
00 at a cost of about $25-30 using a variant of the technique shown in
7.1-8410.

Or you CAN use the very accurate bubble technique posted by the late Bob
Sanigar that's been repeated again and again.

 > On the subject of diesel timing. If you are replacing the pump or
 > rebuilding the engine. The simplest and most accurate way of setting
 > the pump is. Disconnect the fuel line going into the pump from the
 > filter. Take the spring and plunger out of #1 delivery valve, put the
 > delivery valve back in and snug it down, hold the the pump linkage in
 > the full open position. If you have the drip tube install it on the
 > delivery valve, if not use the injector line in such a way that it is
 > pointing away from the engine. It you don't mind the taste of diesel
 > you can blow through the fuel line or use low air pressure. Put the
 > open end of the injector line  in a glass of water and watch the
 > bubbles. Turn the engine slowly until the bubbles stop and check the
 > timing mark. Should be at 24 BTDC. After tightening the pump recheck.
 > This method is really more precise than it needs to be and although
it > may sound complicated it is very easy . Bob

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor

[Mark . Maturo]

Ouch!  Thanks Rusty,   I will let you know if one of the other methods
don't work.




Mark Maturo



   
 "Rusty Cullens"   
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 .com>  To 
 Sent by:  "'Mercedes Discussion List'"
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   Subject 
 06/28/2006 04:09  Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 Mercedes  
  Discussion List  
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  z.com>   
   
   




$300.00

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor


617 589 08 21 00


Mark Maturo





 "Rusty Cullens"

 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 .com>
To
 Sent by:  "'Mercedes Discussion List'"

 mercedes-bounces@ 

 okiebenz.com
cc



Subject
 06/28/2006 03:46  Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor

 PM





 Please respond to

 Mercedes

  Discussion List

 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]

  z.com>









If you can get me a part # I can see how much.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] RIV sensor


Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set
the
start of delivery on the inj. pump?  Rusty, how much is a new one?
 Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?

Thanks


Mark Maturo





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notify
the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and
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Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor

[Mark . Maturo]

617 589 08 21 00


Mark Maturo



   
 "Rusty Cullens"   
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 .com>  To 
 Sent by:  "'Mercedes Discussion List'"
 mercedes-bounces@  
 okiebenz.com   cc 
   
   Subject 
 06/28/2006 03:46  Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor
 PM
   
   
 Please respond to 
 Mercedes  
  Discussion List  
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  z.com>   
   
   




If you can get me a part # I can see how much.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] RIV sensor


Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set
the
start of delivery on the inj. pump?  Rusty, how much is a new one?
 Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?

Thanks


Mark Maturo





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notify
the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and
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[MBZ] RIV sensor

[Mark . Maturo]

Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set the
start of delivery on the inj. pump?  Rusty, how much is a new one?
 Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?

Thanks


Mark Maturo




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Re: [MBZ] 603 Fan removal

[Mark . Maturo]

Dave, thanks for the photos.  I tried the allen wrench in the hole way and
chipped one of the water pump ribs.  I guess I will try the right way.  Do
you think a broken rib will affect anything?  Also, is the hex head bolt on
the fan left threaded?  I was using  a long pipe on the end of the ratchet
for leverage and the bolt didn't budge?




Mark Maturo




   
  "Dave M." 
   
  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
  >cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Sent by: Subject:  Re: [MBZ] 603 Fan 
removal 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  triplin.net   
   

   

   
  03/30/2006 03:38  
   
  PM
   
  Please respond to 
   
  Mercedes  
   
  Discussion List   
   

   

   




Mark,

Here's a photo of the real tools:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/OM60x_serp_belt_tools.jpg

Cost of the tool via Rusty should be under $100. I recommend buying
the tool if you intend to own OM60x engines for any length of time.
Otherwise, some people say you can slip a small Allen wrench into a
hole in the pulley, and brace it against a rib on the water pump. I've
not done this myself but others claim it works OK... just don't break
the water pump. With the stubby hex socket and spinner tool shown in
the photo above, the fan can be pulled out without removing the
radiator.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 14:49:21 -0500
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] was I accidently taken off the list?
>
>
> Does anyone know a good way to hold the water pump pulley, on a 603
engine,
> to keep it from turning while removing the hex head fan bolt?  Mercedes
> sells a tool but it is 140.00.
>
>
> Mark Maturo

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[MBZ] was I accidently taken off the list?

[Mark . Maturo]

Mark Maturo

V: 860-843-6574
F: 860-392-3359
- Forwarded by Mark Maturo/HLIFE on 03/30/2006 02:48 PM -

 
  Mark Maturo   
 
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  03/30/2006 12:01 cc:  
 
  PM   Subject:  603 Fan removal
 

 

 



Does anyone know a good way to hold the water pump pulley, on a 603 engine,
to keep it from turning while removing the hex head fan bolt?  Mercedes
sells a tool but it is 140.00.


Mark Maturo




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[MBZ] 603 Fan removal

[Mark . Maturo]

Does anyone know a good way to hold the water pump pulley, on a 603 engine,
to keep it from turning while removing the hex head fan bolt?  Mercedes
sells a tool but it is 140.00.


Mark Maturo




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Re: [MBZ] ALDA seals/rebuilt ALDA

[Mark . Maturo]

Hi Jim,

What is your address so I can send a Money Order to you for the ALDA shaft
seal.  My car is a 91 350SD.  Should I take a picture of the ALDA shaft
seal to confirm it is the same?


Thanks

 Mark Maturo




   
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
   To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   
  03/14/2006 01:06 cc:  
   
  AM   Subject:  Re: [MBZ] ALDA 
seals/rebuilt ALDA 

   

   




In a message dated 3/13/2006 9:26:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Do you know where to get ALDA shaft seals?  Dave M said you might have
 been
 the person who sold them in the past.
Mark,

Yes, I still have some ALDA shaft seals.  Listers pay my cost, $6.00 each,
cash, check, MO, and send me a stamped, self addressed envelope.   You can
just about install these little buggers with your thumb.  the back side of
a small socket works well to finish seating the seal.  I have never had to
replace the large O-ring, as Dave has mentioned, a light coating of
silicone RTV or Hylomar will seal the old one just fine.

I have one ALDA which has been pressure tested cleaned, and resealed  which
I will sell for $45 plus $3.85 priority mail.  These carry the same part
number from the earliest turbo diesels (78 in the US) through at least 87.
I will remove the seal or leave it intact at the buyer's wish.  A set of 3
shims is included.

Regards,

Jim Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 140 K miles




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[MBZ] ALDA seals

[Mark . Maturo]

Jim(JFreezn),

Do you know where to get ALDA shaft seals?  Dave M said you might have been
the person who sold them in the past.

Thanks


Mark Maturo





  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent by:  To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]cc:  
   
  triplin.net   Subject:  Re: [MBZ] Jim F., 
were you in Tucson today?/weather   




  03/13/2006 11:14  

  AM

  Please respond to 

  Mercedes  

  Discussion List   










In a message dated 3/12/2006 1:03:59 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Bro. in  Tucson took this photo of an SD in a parking lot. Interestingly
(to
me,  anyway) it was parked next to a 300D with one saab in between. Was
that
you, Jim? I should have told him to go check if it had a boost gauge  in
the
steering wheel.



Brian,

Not me.  I left the yellow car home and towed my dune buggy to the  dunes
for
the weekend.  The recent wind and rain left the sand so smooth  and hard
you
could ride those dunes like a roller coaster!

Meanwhile, Phoenix's record of 143 days without rain has ended dramatically

with an inch and a half, with snow down as low as Scottsdale.  It was a
fairly mild storm here, but I see that the cold front moving into the
midwest  has
spawned some early season tornados!  I hope all who read this have  escaped

Mother Nature's wrath.

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 140 K  miles

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[MBZ] ALDA Shaft seal and O-ring

[Mark . Maturo]

Would anyone know where I can get a replacement  shaft seal and O-ring for
the ALDA?

Thanks



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